FZS 600 - Healtech GiPro X-type gear indicator with Y01 harness installation on Yamaha FZS 600 5DM4.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ต.ค. 2013
- ENGLISH (skrócony opis po polsku poniżej)
As my wife would have me put it, I'm in a relationship with Yamaha FZS 600, a 5DM4-70 (UK) model built in 1999. In my eyes it's a near perfect bike, but I'm a tinkerer and I always find room for improvement. One thing that was painfully missing from the bike was a gear indicator.
After searching high and low I've decided to opt for Healtech GiPro X-type gear indicator with Y01 harness. It was the most expensive choice, but after reading reviews on the net I came to two conclusions:
- I don't want any stuff that would require drilling holes in the neutral sensor or anything like that,
- Out of all gear indicators available that use the speed vs. rpm method, GiPro seemed the fastest and most streamlined and easy to install.
Unfortunatelly however, the installation instructions that come with the indicator and Y01 harness don't really apply to FZS 600 5DM4 model. I've combed the web to find any "How to..." texts or videos and found none.
So... there you have it. How to install Gipro X-type with Y01 harness on a 1999 Yamaha FZS 600.
In short - the white bit goes under the tank into connector box and a monkey with a banana could do it. The red wire you need to stick into ANY 12V wire that is hot/gets switched after ignition is turned. There's plenty of them. The most problematic part is the black/green wire which has to get a signal from either pick-up coil/crankshaft sensor or tacho sensor. Here's where you run into trouble, because said wire in the connection box is burried really deep, so your best option is to extend it further and get the signal elswhere. The trouble is, neither GiPro manual nor any of the FZS 600 service books give you any good clues where to find it.
(drums)
It's under left underseat fairing. Among several connectors, one is a two pin connector with two wires - yellow and blue - attached to it. Blue wire is the negative wire, ignore it. The yellow wire is the one you need.
My thoughts about the indicator itself... GET IT! I've been riding for a week now with it and I can't imagine why I waited so long to get it. Reaction time is under 0.5 sec and the blue color is perfectly visible (red probably aswell). You only have to make sure you program it right. If you interrupt programming procedure you will get funky readings later. Once it's programmed right, it doesn't glitch.
And that's it.
POLSKI
Jeżdzę FZS 600, który jest fantastycznym motocyklem, ale od jakiegoś czasu brakowało mi w nim wskaźnika biegów. Zdecydowałem się na zakup GiPro, ponieważ nie chciałem rozwiercać czujnika luzu, ponad to GiPro wydawał się najbardziej dopracowanym rozwiązaniem i najszybciej działającym. Minusem jest tylko cena.
Instrukcja od Healtech'u nie pasuje do FZS 600 5DM4. Nie znalazłem nigdzie w sieci opisu dla mojego motocykla, dlatego popełniłem ten film w nadziei, że ułatwi on komuś życie.
W skrócie, białe złączniki od prędkościomierza znajdziecie w puszce pod bakiem. 12V na czerwony kabel można podkraść praktycznie niemal w każdej wtyczce z dowolnego przewodu, który dostaje zasialnie po przekręceniu stacyjki. Problem zaczyna się z kablem do odczytu czujnika korbowodu/tacho. W puszce jest dżungla, potrzebny kabel jest głęboko pogrzebany i dłubiąc możecie narobić sobie kłopotów. O wiele prościej jest przedłużyć przewód do lewej owiewki pod siodłem. Szukajcie "białej" (neutralnej, przezroczystej) złączki dwupinowej z żółtym i niebieskim kablem. Niebieski to masa, żółty sygnałowy.
Ten wskaźnik wart jest swojej ceny. Po prawidłowym zaprogramowaniu pokazuje właściwy bieg w ciągu pół sekundy i jest bardzo precyzyjny. Jeśli źle go zaprogramujecie będzie fiksował. Koniecznie trzeba go wtedy zresetować i zaprogramować ponownie, inaczej nie będziecie z niego zadowoleni. Fenomenalna sprawa.
I tyle.
Kierunki, woltomierz, klakson, handbary, tylny zacisk od R1: • FZS 600 - 1/7. Kierunk...
CBradio, zegarek, termometr, woltomierz... BLING BLING!: • FZS 600 - CBradio, zeg...
Spadająca nakrętka zębatki zdawczej: • FZS 600 - Nakrętka zęb...
Ulepszanie świateł FZS 600: • FZS 600 - Ulepszanie ś...
Prezentacja motocykla nakręcona dla brata niedługo po zakupie motocykla: • FZS 600 - Yamaha FZS 6...
Prezentacja motocykla po głównych remontach i z poradami dla osób myślących o zakupie FZS600: • FZS 600 - Yamaha FZS 6...
Kudos to Igor, my trusted mechanic and childhood friend, for all the help and work he put into my bike, especially after this SNAFU.
Music disclaimer - It's a theme song from "Pat and Mat" (PL: Sąsiedzi), a great stop-motion animated series from my childhood, which depicts two awsome Czech handymen. I shamelessly stole the idea for the music from McBondi, after watching his "Installing Oxford heated grips on a Suzuki GSR 600" video on YT. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Post scriptum comment to this vid: Guys, get that gear indicator.It's now over half a year since I bought it and I haven't regreted it EVEN ONCE. It's performance is FLAWLESS. The only drawback on FZS600 is that you loose the reading when you use clutch, because then it can't calculate the gear with crankshaft rpm vs. speed sensor. Since I rarely use clutch for shifting and usually only use it while starting to move or coming to full stop, it's not a problem. And when downshifting quickly with clutch from high gear to neutral when you come to full stop, all it takes is to look at the read out before using clutch and then you instantly know how many times you have to push that gear lever to get back to neutral or other desired position. True, most of the time you simply know the gear you're in just by looking at speed and rpm's, but there's plenty of cases when zig-zagging through city traffic, when your mind just becomes too preoccupied with avoiding getting squashed by SUV's and then you come to the lights and accidentally grind gears when you go from 4 to 1 too quickly, while actually you were aiming for neutral.
O kurcze musze sobie do kota to zainstalować swietna sprawa.
Rafal L W podłączeniu tego jest tylko jedna względnie trudna rzecz - znalezienie przewodu z korbowodu. Jeśli wiesz gdzie u Ciebie w moto leci sygnał z obrotami silnika, to montaż tego wskaźnika staje się idiotycznie prosty i tylko trzeba znaleźć względnie prosty kawałek drogi (jakaś obwodnica) gdzie ze spokojem można moto rozbujać od I-VI w celu zaprogramowania wskaźnika. Wskaźnik działa biorąc prędkość z koła i obroty z wału i wylicza z tego jaki jest bieg. W związku z tym jest jakieś 0,5 sek opóźnienia w wyświetlaniu, a na postoju czy z wciśniętym sprzęgłem nie pokazuje nic. Jest to pewien minus, ale mnie to nie przeszkadza. Jest inny zestaw wskaźnikowy na Allegro dostępny, który kosztuje połowę tego co GiPro, ale jest z nim pewien knyf, przynajmniej w przypadku FZS 600. Trzeba wyjąć spod klapy pierścień czujnika luzu i dorobić na nim dodatkowe 6 pinów (gwoździkami miedzianymi) i wyprowadzić te piny kabelkami przez pokrywkę czujnika luzu i podać do tego innego typu wskaźnika. Plus jest taki, że ten drugi typ wskaźnika zawsze pokazuje zapięty bieg, minus jest taki, że przy takim majsterkowaniu łatwo coś spier...lić, a mnie się nie chciało ryzykować. :] Ze spokojem polecam GiPro. Po 2 latach jazdy od pierwszego zaprogramowania dalej mi chodzi dobrze, czasem teraz tylko lekko wariuje między 5 a 6. W instrukcji ostrzegają, że jak coś takiego się dzieje, to trzeba zresetować układ i na nowo zaprogramować, ale nie chcę mi się jechać na obwodnicę. :P
Thanks for the video. I'm scary when I will receive my GiPro...Perhaps I must pay a mechanic man.
Do you feel that the GiPro consume battery power when the motorbike is off?
It depends on how you connect your GiPro to your motorcycle. You can connect it directly to the battery. Then it will always draw power and can discharge your bike. It is the same when you connect it to any wire linked directly to the battery. It is much better to connect your GiPro to a wire that will be "hot" only when you want to use it. You can do it in two ways. You can hook it up directly to the battery but add a switch somewhere that will cut the power when needed. This way you have to turn on/off your GiPro manually. But it is very easy to install. Another way is to hook it up to a cable/wire that only gets "hot" (electricity runs through it) when you turn the ignition key. You have to find any such cable and steal power from it. This option is a bit more complicated then with a manual switch. But it is also not perfect, because you will be stealing power from a cable designated for something else. Most complicated option but also most safe and most professional is to use an automatic switch with a 12V coil. I'm assuming, based on your comment, that you're not comfortable doing this yourself so perhaps you could pay someone to do it for you. If you want to do it yourself, you'll need a automatic switch with 12V coil and you'll have to link power from the battery through this switch to your GiPro and you'll still have to find a wire that get's hot after ignition key is turned to provide steering signal for the coil of the automatic switch.
+escarfangorn Great and clear explanation! Thanks I will follow your advices.
Hi, thanks for your sharing. I have a problem because during set up while I'm on road, it seems that device doesn't know when engine rpm are rising. I've connected the cable to yellow cable under the seat, where there is a double cable connector, one yellow and one blue. Correct?
I've done this mod to my bike over 10 years ago and it has been running good ever since. I'm not even riding that bike as my main bike anymore, moved on to VFR. I do not remember anymore the colors of the cables. I know in this film there was a blank screen inserted by me at some point with cable colors description, because I had to pause recording due to the fact that I had a problem with some sensor and that stopped the starter from turning. If it is not getting RPM from the engine that means you don't have data from the wire from the shaft sensor. I think that cable was on the left side under small cover. It should be shown in the film. I don't have the bike with me right now to check it, I've stored it untill I have the time to do some repairs on it. It's been waiting for almost a year now for me to find some time to dig it out, service it and start riding on it again. Sorry, can't help more. :/
Gracias motero 👍🏍👍
De nada.
Thanks so much for this video. Doing the same thing right now. I'm still scared to break something though. So you extended the red wire by soldering and then connected it to the battery's 12V plus? How did you connect the green/black wire from the GiPro to the yellow wire in the connector?
To he first question, not exactly. It was also covered with something we call "termokurczki" in Polish. GoogleTranslate fails to give me anything. It's a piece of plastic tubing which you heat with a flame, a soldering iron or a heater and it shrinks due to heat creating a waterproof seal on any cable. Aditionally at first I was trying to sphion power to the GiPro directly from any wire in the connector box which was becoming "hot" (live) after ignition was turned on. I wanted to do this fast and easy. Because of the ensuing problem with clutch sensor (which had nothing to do with GiPro but with my rummaging in the connector box which disconnected the sensor) the "fast&dirty" approach was ditched and instead the setup currently is as follows. A 12V switch is connected to the battery on the plus. On the other end the switch is connected to the GiPro red wire (power wire). Both cables are connected to the switch in default "off" configuration. Third wire goes to connector box and is hooked to... mmm... can't remember, but simply anything that goes live after ignition is turned on will do. When the third wire gets hot, the switch jumps to "on" position and GiPro gets power directly from the battery. I've connected my heated grips the same way. Why? Because switches take miniscule amounts of power to operate and the device you're connecting takes power directly from the battery, so you're not putting extra load on anything else and the bonus is, you can put in extra breakers into the circuit that will isolate only this one circuit and you won't loose two systems in case of a short. Just one.
To the second question. GiPro came with little "wire thiefs". They are plastic clamps with piece of sharp metal in them. They serve to easily connect two cables together and GiPro manual even tells you to use it. I'm not too keen on those. The connection is not 100% proof and on ocassion you can slice the original wire in half or damage it in such a way that it will break in time due to vibration. Instead the wire from the connector was exposed with a knife (isolation removed), then the GiPro wire was soldered to the exposed part and covered with isolation tape. "Termokurczki" (see earlier comment) couldn't be used because there was no free end on the wire running to the connector, so there was no place where you could slide "termokurczka" on. But the soldering joint should hold just fine and the isolation tape serves both as protection against any shorts and as aditional structural bonding between both wires.
Postscriptum: There's one more important reason, which I failed to mention, why it's good to use switches that operate with the ignition and not attach stuff directly to the battery. Especially with such power-hogging stuff like heated grips. The moment you turn off your ignition, they get turned off too. I can't tell you how many times I've forgot to click down my heated grips to 0/off when I had them connected straight to the battery. Now? No problem. I turn the ignition on, click them up and they work fine. I turn the ignition off, they are off and the only trouble is, you have to re-set them (click up) each time you turn the ignition to off. No such trouble with GiPro as it works on full auto after being programmed and simply goes on/off along with ignition.
escarfangorn I finally found the time and courage to work on the installation and I got it working, thanks to your video and comments! I've attached the power to the rear-brake-light cable, which is switched by the ignition key. I chose not to use a relay, since the gear indicator draws very little power. The location for the display is perfect. Calibrating the gears has been a struggle. Most gears work fine, but it has trouble identifying between 4/5 and 5/6 gears at low revs. I've re-calibrated several times. That's not a big issue though. My main need was to identify 2nd gear (to prevent shifting into 1st) and 6th gear (to prevent going for a non-existent 7). Very happy with the result. Oh, the material you forgot the English name of is called "heat-shrink". Thanks for your help!
Yggdrasil42 Thank you for the translation and I'm glad that you've managed to install it fine. I see from the amount of dislikes on this video that many people expect to see everything step by step on the video and that they do not read the description which gives all required information to finish the process. :] As for the calibration it can be tricky. I managed to get it right on the second or third time only by going to a nearby express road by nigh and using about 4-5 km of it's lenght to program it perfectly. After two seasons with the same tires however I can see that the indicator sometimes gets lost on the 5th and 6th gear. I'm assuming that my tires have worn out a bit and that GiPro gets confused because speed/rpm ration have changed slightly. Finding the location for the indicator was a complete stroke of luck on my part. I've put it here and there in the cockpit and finally decided on that spot and never really had to change it. Just by sheer dumb luck I guess I've managed to pin point a location which seems to almost always have enough shade to see without problem even in the brightest of days. :]
Thanks for sharing the video mate. That music was actually pretty catchy - I found myself bopping along to it. I recently bought a cheaper version (IDEA) of this from ebay and it seems to come with the exact wiring harness. I'm installing on a Yamaha WR250R. I'm having an issue trying to locate the crankshaft/pickup coil/tacho sensor wire. The instructions mention that it should be a 2 pole natural colour plug.
It's doing my head in trying to find it. I reckon your video has helped me somewhat though. I'll have another poke around, not much help on the interwebs on this still.
Hope you find it. For me also the most problematic thing was finding the very same wire on my bike. Real nightmare to find and the cables that run that signal changed colours in diff versions of my bike. Wiring diagram helped only a bit, because it didn't show where the cable was routed, just endpoints, but finally we managed to track that sucker down. :] Good luck.
I found the music extremely annoying. But the video was pretty good.
FabzRustRider UK Like this video 💯
Thank you so much for this video. You are literally the only one that made a how-to for this specific model. I’m almost certain that i have the same model as you do, but do you know how I can see which model I have?
I followed your steps and I’m certain that I connected all the wires correctly. However, the indicator stopped working. I didn’t even get to test it. It did work for a few minutes after connecting it (the L was blinking).
Also there’s something weird happening. I have the GiPro currently connected even if doesn’t work, and when I’m driving and I pull the clutch, the empty fuel indicator is turned on. Do you have any idea what may cause this?
Also, is there any way to test if I used the correct wire to connect the green/black wire?
You pull on the clutch and you get "fuel empty" warning sign? It seems that you have caused a short somewhere in the cabling harness. Possibly when looking for power for it, if it stopped working? Not sure. As for the GiPro, the model list should be on the package. As for the bike, there should be markings under the seat with code denoting which model you have. Only GiPro specific for that model will fit due to the fact that the electrical harness was changed in various models and you need correct harness for given model of FZS 600.
@@escarfangorn I checked it again and it seems that the fuel empty warning goes on when the bike is in neutral. Tomorrow i will check if this still happens when i choose another power source.
@@macbaur242 Man, this reads like you have some sort of short in your bike's harness. Take care of it before you go on the road. :( Good luck.
Mat & Pat!!!
knurri :D
Hi, me again. :P How have you taped the indicator on the chassis? Glu?
As far as I can remember it was double sided tape and to tell you the truth I think the indicator came with a piece of tape already attached. I just had to remove one side of protective material and stick it to the chassis.
escarfangorn Great, I will do the same, thanks
Hi, I just installed mine and its flashing an L(slowly). So its ready to learn the gear.
Isn't it supposed to "learn" the idle speed when you start the engine though? It's not flashing rapidly.
I was going to let it learn the gears tomorrow. Any tips?
Good video, I think I connected the ground and 12v to the correct wires though ;)
I did the programming like this (the successful attempt). I drove to an expressway by the city and stopped at a truck rest place. There I waited a bit to make sure that no one was going to be leaving the stop any time soon and moved to the exit where I stopped and did the whole reset procedure, as far as I can remember it was something like turning the bike on and off again couple of times. When GiPro was reset I waited to have a bit of a break between the cars on the expressway and then took off following instructions from the indicator as I drove, the messages telling me to switch up gears and accelerate. All according to the manual. After that, in all those years, I had to reprogram the indicator only once.
I had only one earlier failed attempt when I tried to program the thing within city limits. There was too much starting and stopping and the speed was too small. You need a bit of highway/expressway to do it properly, because you have to go up all the gears and when you're in sixth and even in lower to mid RPM's, you'll still be doing way over 100kph.
During use later, you may see some minor issues on gears 4-6th if you wear out your tires or change tires while the indicator was programmed on old ones. Gears are "guessed" by comparing wheel RPM to crankshaft RPM, so sudden changes in tire diameter can throw the indicator a bit, also any problems with speedometer or crankshaft sensor assy will cause the GiPro to stop working properly.
However, I've had it for maybe 6 years now and I never regretted getting it. Works fine still, had some miniscule issues at 5-6th gear after I changed my tires but frankly I wasn't even bothered enough to drive to the expressway to reset and reprogram it. It's most useful in city traffic when you don't want to be bothered with counting shifts and you just want to take a quick glance before a red intersection to make sure how many times you have to downshift to hit neutral. And knowing that with this gearbox is a blessing, because shifting from 6 to 2 has o be done with a fair bit of force while going from 2 to neutral is a fine art. :D
@@escarfangorn Cool :) Thanks for the quick reply.
Do you have any idea why my gear indicator doesn't start flashing the L faster when I turn on my engine? Was it the same with your Fazer 600?
I am starting to think I might have had the wrong wire tap(on the crankshaft pickup coil). I actually have yet to confirm it actually IS the pickup coil... lol
@@cryonisc I'm affraid it's been so many years since the last time I had to reprogram it, I no longer remember how fast it was flashing. It was letter L for sure, but I don't recall anything about the flashing interval.
@@escarfangorn I managed to fix it!
The problem I meant:
Quick flashing = learning the IDLE speed / gear, fast flashing of L will only happen when started the engine. When it learned the IDLE speed, it moves to "1" for first gear.
Slow flashing = ready to learn the IDLE speed / gear, sllow flashing of L will only happen when key is turned to ignition, but engine is off.
Unfortunately, due to my impatience, I connected the green wire(from the harness) to the wrong wire underneath the tank. Then I started reading the description underneath the video.
I connected the green wire(extending it first) to the yellow wire, on the left side of the battery. Now its learning the IDLE speed properly and moves to 1.
My next step is to learn the process while driving. I need to find a long stretch of road to do it :)
@@cryonisc Yeah, prefferably go on an expressway or a motorway late in the night when there's little traffic. I did my programmin on a ... one sec... Google Maps to the rescue... yeah... it took me roughly 4 km of expressway to program all gears up to 6th and I think I went up to 140-150 kph. You don't actually have to go that fast as I recall, but since I was on the expressway I was a bit too generous with acceleration. It will show a number and keep you driving on the same gear for a while and then next number will flash and you switch up while slowly accelerating. That's why its good to do it when there's little traffic, because I-III people will have to overtake you and then you go into IV-VI and you're zooming past them and in high traffic this might be unnecessary risk while in the evening with less cars it just looks sily. :D
Dobry dzień. Posiadam fazera 600s z 1999r. Nie mogę zaprogramować czujnika prędkości. Na środkowej nodze. Może warto to uwiecznić w ruchu? A jak można to zresetować? Dziękuję.
Reset jest poprzez kilkukrotne włączenie i wyłączenie stacyjki bez uruchamiania silnika. Chyba 5 razy. Tak jest przynajmniej z moim GiPro. Nie wiem jak z innymi. Co do programowania, nie mam jak nagrać tego w ruchu, bo nie mam już kamerki na kasku. Programowanie na środkowej nodze? Chodzi o "centralny"? Stojak centralny/nóżkę centralną? FZS 600 nie da się zaprogramować wskaźnika na stojaku. Czujnik działa licząc obroty silnika względem obrotów przedniego koła, bo tam jest ślimak prędkościomierza. Podczas postoju programowanie się nie uda. Trzeba to zrobić w trakcie jazdy, zgodnie z wytycznymi z instrukcji. Zresetować czujnik. Potem ruszyć na pierwszym biegu i stopniowo delikatnie przyspieszać, aż wskaźnik pokaże sygnał do zwiększenia biegu. Tak samo na II, III, IV, V i VI. Trzeba to zrobić na drodze szybkiego ruchu/autostradzie, na zwykłej drodze na VI biegu ma się za dużą prędkość. Przyznaję, że programowanie potrafi być irytujące, bo cała sekwencja musi pójść perfekcyjnie i trzeba dość jednostajnie zwiększać prędkość. Najlepiej jest to zrobić na jakiejś szybkiej drodze poza miastem nocą, aby inne pojazdy nie przeszkadzały.
So Yamaha Fazer 600 year 2001 doesn't have a plug for connecting the gear indicator, but you must weld wires instead? No plug&play gear indicators come in option?
Welding not required, just some soldering or pinching the wires a bit and securing with electric tape. There's no plug&pray socket. At least not in 98-99 model, but I doubt the electrical harness for 2001 changed much. You get a plug&pray part for the speed indicator where you stick a connector in the middle of existing connectors for the speed gauge. But then you still need power and signal from the crankshaft sensor with Healtech.
Basically there are two options available on the market.
Electro-mechanical one and these come cheap but you have to do a lot of tinkering with neutral gear indicator including drilling holes, etc. I didn't want that one because there's too much work involved and you risk damaging your neutral sensor.
Or there's purely electric option with Healtech where you just have to connect cables, no drilling but there's a logical circuit involved which has to be programmed accodriding to the manual. Programming is simple but requires maybe 2-4 km (1-2 miles) of mostly straight road with little traffic so you can go through all the gears and focus on the indicator without risk of someone running you over. I've programmed mine fairly easy when I bought it and then only had to reset it once and reprogram again when it started getting a bit confused probably due to tire wear (the circumference of the wheel changes slightly which in turn slightly alters indicated speed and the chip works by calculating revs vs indicated speed).
Connecting speed signal was easy. Just plug that bit between two connectors and done. Next two cables are easy too. It's just power. You can grab that from almost anything in the box and from the frame. That can take maybe 2 minutes to connect.
The real problem for me was the crankshaft signal cable. I just couldn't find it. While rummaging in the cables I managed to disconnect my clutch sensor and that's why there's a cut in the video and rest is filmed in the evening with wires already placed because I basically couldn't start up my bike and it took a lot of time to find out that it was the clutch sensor that was disconnected.
Finally, thanks to a friend actually, I've found where it's possible to grab the signal from the crankshaft on 98-99 harness and second part of the film shows which cable you need to splice to get that signel. With power, signal from the speedo and signal from crankshaft the Healtech gets all it needs to work, just have to program it as manual says, showing it the range of RPM vs speed on each gear.
I know this sounds a bit complicated but really isn't and it's WELL WORTH THE EFFORT. I can't imagine not having that indicator now. It's subconcious after some time.
The only "drawback" with this system is, that it only works when bike is in motion and you're not using the clutch. Because it needs to get correct revs and speed to calculate gear. So when you have gear engaged and you are moving and you use the clutch so revs drop to idle, it'll stop showing anything. It's a minor hindrance and with properly placed indicator you start to check it subcounciously before you press clutch, etc.
With electro-mechanical based on altering neutral sensor you always have accurate info but it really takes a lot more tinkering and it's prone to mechanical failures from wear&tear. Healtech is electric. Seems more durable and elegant.
Cheers.
I am looking this one. www.ebay.com/itm/Red-LED-Universal-Digital-Gear-Indicator-Motorcycle-Display-Shift-Lever-Sensor-/221548078908?hash=item33954b673c:g:wmkAAOSwGvhUFC-d&vxp=mtr
I hope it is connected the way you did it
No. It's not. You just have to look at the product description to see that it's a completly diffrent product with a mode of operation I even haven't seen before.
I'm guessing at this point but I asume this product needs power from the bike only and no additional cables connected to the bike or it's sensors because it comes with it's own sensors.
It works by attaching a magnet to the gear lever and two sensors on the frame above and below the lever. When supplied with power it tries to detect movement of the gear leaver and it does so by counting how many times the magnet on the lever passes in front of the lower or upper sensor.
So with this setup you need to run wires to get power and run wires to the sensors on the frame and place them there (glue or plastic bands) and attach a magnet to the gear lever (also glue or bands).
At this point this soultion already looks prone to waterlogging and will not look too great with all the wires running along the frame.
Besides that I'm wondering how this solution copes with errors and resetting after an error or power on/off.
I suspect that when it gets power it always asumes that the bike is in neutral and then starts counting gear shifter lever movements. So if you power up your bike with gear I engaged and then upshift to neutral this type of indicator will asume you've upshifted from neutral into second gear. Also if it misses a shift while riding it doesn't seem to have any means of coping with such error. Most probably you have to stop and reset it by going into neutral and the turning the device off and on again.
I'm also wondering how it copes with shifting between I and II and II and I where while riding you can "fly over" neutral and then you get only one gear shifter movement while gears change by more then one position.
I know that on my FZS600 the range of motion of gear shifter lever really depends on what I'm doing and how I'm riding. For example, when stopping at a light I will probably downshift to first gear with much force and then, because probably of OCD, I will click it couple of times just to make sure it's in first gear. Then when taking off I"ll up shift to II with much force and full range of motion of the shifter because in FZS600 gearbox demands it. But then going from II to III and IV and then downshifting back to II takes just a slight touch of the shifter. Actually, when I'm downshifting from III to II the movement is so subtle like a bank robber trying to work a combination on a safe because it's just too damn easy to overshoot and come from III to I. Even more so when going from II to neutral or II to I. It all takes a bit of finese and practice. And each time the range of motion of the shifter and strenght applied is diffrent. How a soulution based on magnets can cope with that and how it can detect the diffrence between jumps just on the I, neutral and II... It just doesn't inspire my confidence.
It's cheap and it may work, but it has it's drawbacks. On the plus side it probably only requires power to work. And the quality of work will depend heavily on correct placement of sensors and magnet. It's the same thing as contactrons in home security systems. When a magnet is placed in front of a sensor it alters the state of the sensor (current/no current).
Well I am still deciding. But the fact is that I am not willing to pay 100$ for gear indicator. I Will go with the cheap version and let you know how it works. Thanks for your help :D
I wish you best of luck with this endevour and I really hope that it actually works, because I know very well how much it sucks to spend money on something that then fails to deliver. I'm really worried though this will not work flawlessly. A couple sayings come to mind. I believe firsts one come from USA: "Best bang for buck." and "You get what you pay for". Then there's the British "We're not rich enough to buy cheap things!". And then Polish one which I'll attempt to translate: "Stingy pays twice...". I'm not trying to say that you are stingy, I myself am known to do a lot of things on tight budgets, but I hope you get what I'm aiming at with these particular proverbs...
I bought a rip-off GPS locator "Made in PRC". It didn't work well. So I bought a cable to repogram it. Then battery exploded. Finally I got it to work after 4 months and finally the price of shipping + extra stuff + original price came roughly in the price range in which I could've rented a GPS locator service subscription with the device included for ~4 years. My "Made in PRC" locator died after 3 years. And I had to pay pre-paid SIM all that time. Yeah... it was cheap. And it sort of worked...
Hopefully this here will not be same case. If it works well, let me know. :)
hej, pamiętasz może który kabel to jest ten od sensoru polozenia wału? nioe mogę zrozumieć na filmiku. Pozdrawiam
To już tyle lat, że nie pamiętam. Na pewno ten z lewej strony w lewej mniejszej owiewce. Ale który, to bym musiał sam do filmiku zajrzeć. Pamiętam, że na którejś planszy w filmie podawałem jego kolor. Ale dzisiaj sam bym miał problem, żeby znaleźć.
Thanks it was the Yellow wire. I went with the Blue at first 😂
Hej. Zmieniałeś może gumy na manetkach? Jeśli tak, to gdzie zakupiłeś?
raqs Oryginalne gumy Yamaha wymieniłem na manetki ogrzewane Oxford w wersji bodaj Premium Touring V8. Te nowe gumy są po prostu nieodzownym elementem zestawu Oxford, ponieważ element grzejny jest zaszyty we wnętrzu gumy i siłą rzeczy trzeba gumy zmienić. Kupiłem na Allegro.
escarfangorn Ok, dzięki wielkie za odpowiedź.
raqs Spoko. :)
Oprócz kostki są 2 przewody czerwony i zielony. Czerwony wpisałeś a gdzie poszedł zielony?
Poza kostką, o ile dobrze pamiętam, są dwa przewody i jeden daje prąd, a drugi daje sygnał z korbowodu. Na filmie jest pokazane i opisane na planszach gdzie ma iść kabel do korbowodu czujnika, bo to na serio trudno znaleźć. Natomiast kabel od zasilania trzeba podpiąć pod COKOLWIEK co dodstaje stały prąd po odpaleniu stacyjki. Dosłownie trzeba pogmerać multimetrem w skrzynce pod bakiem i się podpiąć pod układ, który ma prąd po przekręceniu stacyjki w położenie "on". W ten sposób wyświetlacz będzie się uruchamiał razem ze stacyjką.
Hej miałbym prośbę. Mógłbyś mi pomóc w znalezieniu takiego samego wskaźnika jak Twój np na allegro podrzucajac tutaj link? Mam Fzs 600 z 2002 roku i również bym chciał sobie go doposazyć o taki wskaźnik jak Twój :)
W tej chwili w ofercie na Allegro nie ma X-type pasującego do FZS 600. Wskaźnik i elektronika są zasadniczo te same, ale liczy się uprząż z którą przychodzi wskaźnik i ta uprząż musi pasować do elektroniki motocykla. Jest jeden sprzedawca na Allegro teraz, który w ogóle oferuje X-type. Proponuję napisać do niego zapytanie, czy mógłby ściągnąć egzemplarz z akcesoriami pod FZS600 z 2002.
I take back my previous post - sorry (yes the music is awful) but the wiring info is invaluable. Helped me install the PZracing GearTronic Zero unit on my Fazer 600 (1999 model) - the instructions for this 'plug and play' PZ unit are inaccurate and next to useless. Programming the device which needs to be done on the move (you need at least a mile of clear empty road) is dangerous to say the least. I'm onto my sixth attempt; if it doesn't work properly next time out I'm sending it back - just not worth the money or hassle.
My main problem with hooking up GiPro was exactly the same - useless manual and no info on the net where to hook it up. It took a while to figure this one out and caused some extra problems as mentioned in the video. GiPro also has to be programmed on the move, but I managed to do that on my second attempt using a stretch of speedway (normal road in Poland = 90 km/h, speedway = 120 km/h, freeway = 140 km/h) close to my house. I couldn't do it in the city, not with all the traffic lights and everything. Once I managed to program it correctly it didn't require any tweaking. At the moment I've returned from 3028 km road trip and it started glitching a little bit when I'm on gear 5 or 6. I suspect this may be due to wear&tear on the drive sprockets which alter the RPM/speed ratio. Other then that I'm happy with my GiPro and I can happily recomend this unit to anyone. Can't imagine driving without it now.
+Chris Lawrence If you knew music related to cartoon you would know why he has chosen it instead making such comments.It is not a disco bar here.Just music in background where someone tries to make tutorial.
Dzień dobry pytanko bym miał co do tej białej kostki bo nie wiem pod który przewód się podpiąć z jedno strony jest żółty i niebieski kabel A z drogiej strony są biało czerwony i niebiesko czarny i nie wiem gdzie podłączyć przewód od wskaźnika biegów,,,,, był bym bardzo wdzięczny za pomoc , pozdrawiam i życzę miłego dnia .
Chodzi o kostkę pod bakiem? Tam jest przelotówka i kształt głupoodporny. Musi wejść dobrze, jeśli była kupiona wiązka do właściwego moto. Jak do niewłaściwego, to się nie da podłączyć i trzeba wymienić wskaźnik na prawidłowy. Jeśli chodzi o kostki na dole, to trzeba znaleźć kostkę w kolorze neutralnym "przezroczystą". Z wiązki Y01 kabel czarno/zielony podłącza się do żółtego kabla w tej wtyczce, tej do której dochodzą żółty i niebieski. Żółty ma sygnał z wału korbowego, a niebieski ma minus.
@@escarfangorn no właśnie mi chodziło o tą kostkę przezroczystą co jest koło zamka kluczyka od kanapy ;)
@@kacper2525 No to w tej żółty to sygnał, niebieski to masa. Tzn. tak jest w moim. Rocznik 1999. 5DM.
@@escarfangorn wielkie dzięki ;)
@@kacper2525 Nie ma sprawy.
fitting music
Exactly. :D The problems I encountered were really in lieu with the series as well. Fortunately a friend helped me to find the loose cable that blocked starter from turning.
Awesome music! Who is it?
It is from a Czech cartoon which abroad was usually named "Pat and Matt" or "Pat & Mat", but in slavic countries it was more often called "Sąsiedzi" which translates to "Neighbours". The cartoon was about a pair of blundering friends who tried to execute lots of DYI projects which usually failed in many tragic ways, usually in the end culminating in something acceptable. :)
@@escarfangorn I was thinking "are n't you Czech?" I was never thinking that Pat a Mat was in england or anywhere else.
Witam.a czy pamiętasz jak programowałeś wyswietlacz . Czy w ruchu czy w miejscu na stopce centralnej ?
Tylko w ruchu. Wyświetlacz musi mieć info z prędkościomierza oraz czujnika wału korbowego. Na centralnym się nie da, przednie koło musi się obracać adekwatnie do biegu i obrotów.
Dzisiaj już działa jak powinien dzieki. Zaprogramowany .
Czy moglibyście napisać gdzie podłączyć kable? Wtyczki białe pod bakiem w tej skrzyneczce? Bo chyba tam pasują tylko. A kabel czerwony (zasilanie, do lampy stop?) i zielony od czujnik wału do którego? Dzięki :)
W fzs600 2003r beż ABS musisz programować jadac
@@ArturroNEGOCJATOR zasilanie tam gdzie znajdziesz plus po zapłonie
I'd rather pay an expert to do this. It's obviously not simple.
It really is quite simple. The hardest part in terms of DIY is finding the crankshaft sensor cable. There is a black board just at maybe 3/4 of this video where I list cable colors under left small fairing where you can find this cable. Power can be taken from any other cable under the tank that gets hot after ignition is turned on. You may even sphion the voltage from lights if you want the indicator to turn on when you put lights on. Then programming it can be a challenge if you don't have an empty stretch of road. But it is not rocket science either. :)
Great vid..but the most annoying music ever.
It's from a Czech stop-motion animated series Pat & Mat which was a production featuring two blundering neighbors who constantly tried to do some homeimprovements all by themselves and kept mucking it all up in the process, but usually with a happy an unexpected finale. I suspect that to anyone not familiar with the show the music may seem a bit anoying and repetitive, but any fan of the series will deem the audio absolutelly appropriate to the video content, ie. me mucking up clutch sensor and in essence blocking the ignition circuit from turning on engine starter... but in my case too there was a happy ending. ^^ I came upon the tune while watching someone else installing HotGrips on their bike and just couldn't resist not to use it on this video. It seemed to fit perfectly. :D
escarfangorn :D :D :D :D !!!! Super hudba !
No taste or imagination, kids nowadays 🙄 and I'm speaking from an ex 90s rave music and 80s hip hop position, clueless!