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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 เม.ย. 2020
- A small scraper arm matched with a Gcode routine to cool off the part and scrape it off the print bed automatically. A new print job can then be started.
By using the Tripple Z Self Levelling function from the HevORT you will obtain a perfect 1st layer, even after a sticky part removal.
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I have quite harshly criticized other attempts are auto removal. Suggesting that a dedicated mechanism is a proper approach. You have built exactly that, well done!
Thank you. This mechanism was put together in less than 6 hours with left over parts. It did the job great.
@@MirageC I like your style, we would get along!
Amazing system. I love the little finger drag at the end😂
Top darts , a beautifully executed piece of human robotics integrated into a nifty system. Good old humans, still useful
This has to be the biggest chad printer I've ever seen XD
What a beast ... You are so underrated
LOL, you are like the gift that keeps on giving :-) Nice.
now you attract my attention sir
Amazing idea man. Subbed just for this. I'm hoping to build a corexy here sometime soon. I'd love to build your hevort.
Nice work.
That's freaking tight.
lol thats so much better and simpler that i would have solved that 👍🏼 awesome!
impressive !
Man you are my hero. The first think I will do after get a donor heart and I will be out f the hospital, I will, build this Printer..
Sending you positive waves to help you navigate through those tough times mate! Hope all goes well. Hit me up when you are ready to embark the HevORT journey ;)
I, for one, think this isn't overengineered. It's only 1 stepper motor, people! And it doesn't require another board - it can be run from Duet entirely. How simple can you get?
That and its for a specific purpose, albeit a very important one. No one wants to visit a printer every few hours or less just to pop a print off. Nice work man.
Woooo that's sooo awesome!
Great mechanics!
However - this will not work for higher parts.
Did you think of a scraper acting from behind of the build plate?
I think the side would work better as the back screw is in the way and the part would get caught. Making a mechanism that would push the part from the side, I believe would be a better option.
In this configuration it is very limiting to the height of the prints, before it colludes the spindle and the print. If you have a system which for example is mounted on the side, you dont limit the height of the print in areas, which are not blockd by the mechanism.
Yes of course, I agree with you, this was a system put together within 6 hours reusing old parts I had laying around. The permanent solution uses the bed tilting capability of this printer combined with massive cooling fans and 2 little tapper (arcade style) to eject the part by the front door.
@@MirageC Cant wait to see that!
His enclosure is kind of the issue here. Could easily just mount this lower and make the mechanism push instead of pull and you would be able to use it for much taller parts.
The bar from the motor screw would get in the way if starting to print bigger items. But I am sure there is a way around it.
So do you have these for sale?
completly over engineered, seems to fit your style :)
I've actually got a question about the Y carriage Part, it seem you have to bolts that are pushing against the side of mgn bearing block are these for alignment/pretension to get the xy axes square ? And if so how is your alignement process using these ? Im building a self designed printer myself currently and i've got a bit of a problem with my mounts so im curious how another people designed these.
Over engineered because it can produce a part every 70 minutes :D
8/10 because finger on end :)))
What material are you using for the enclosure?
.... :( cardboard and heat reflective bubble wrap for the moment.
How do you keep the glass in place? Can’t see any mounts.
A thermal silicone pad provides the adherence to the glass.
How does it work with bigger parts/more surface on the bed?
It does not. That was a simple solution put together on a Saturday morning with left overs to accelerate my production of face shields
Idea is ok but can be deadly too. What happens when the print it still to hot and stuck to the glass... i breaks the glass.....
When we print PETG what we see is a cool down time of about 2h before it fully release from the glass. I think the idea is great but better would be to push the piece from behind of the build plate. So to speed prints up I would like more an option to change the build plate out automatically and than when the 2nd piece is done it pushes it of the first build plate if the cool down time is reached. So best would be a slide carrier side to side ..... so print 1 done move it to the left, new plate from the right..... now it's of the heater and cools down faster too.... than when the 2nd piece is finished printing you push to the right return it to the starting point. That will allow enough cooling time for the part which now before the print start can be pushed off with a unit pushing from behind over the build plate. And now you got a fully automated system and reduced risk of breaking anything. I think linear rails are the solution.
Great idea. I look forward to seeing the plans when you've designed them. In the meantime, this will let him print PPE quickly.
just print pla, ez. this is specifically for printing ppe and it works so,
@@reid-dye Sorry but PLA is not FDA approved. So we can not use PLA at all.
Seems a bit overcomplicated but at least it works!
Yes it does. :) I have to admit that this was developed within 12 hours using parts from an other project.
This music is absolut porno. The function too, you can update it for selfadjusting wide for wide prints thats taller than xy mm. Nice job
What board are you running ?
Duet, idk what model or if they have the expansion, but they should consider switching to a BTT GTR 1.0.
I am using a DuetWifi along with a Duex5 expansion board.
What are the technical advantages of this Big Tree Tech board over the Duet?
@@MirageC There's no real benefit other than the two extra drivers (9 vs 11) and cost, I've heard the Duet is actually better than the GTR in a lot of ways, but the GTR and expansion is only $70 with a wifi module and 2209s, vs the duet's $300 price tag. I think a lot more people would be able to build your printer if you included it in the parts list and supported it. Just my opinion/an idea, I have no problems with the duet.
@Thu Nell Ⓥ yes it does work as an alternative to the duet! There are a few small features duet has that skr doesn't, but you will probably never notice the difference.
If you had a tool changer you could make it a tool or just put it on the carriage
The new config is tilting the bed forward and two servo motor a giving a tap to the part to fall off. 2 Fans accelerate the cooling of the bed for a faster release.
Genius idea. :) How much space is "lost" infront of the printer?
Print area is not affected at front. Only at rear because of the max reach of the arm.
KInda overengineered, and why not simply lengthen the conveyor, and eject the buildplate and insert an another one?
This was put together using left over parts I had laying around. Took me about 4 - 6 hours from start of project to functioning. This configuration can work 24/7 with no human interaction (as long as you have filament). It did the job just fine.
@@MirageC Got it. Nice work, though.
Wooow
nobody needs faceshields.. never seen one with that..
Wow！
Too bad makerbot literally owns the rights to the idea of a printer that removes prints from its own bed,
Paying money to put your name on an Idea will not prevent open source community from developing similar solutions ;)
@@MirageC I appreciate your humble nature, but I'd much rather you be making literally millions of dollars on this overly specific patent than Bree freaking Pettis who's done nothing with it.