Wall hung Lithium Battery looks amazing! Powerwall style from Orient Power.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- This battery is built like a tank! Orient Power sent me their new Powerwall style battery! It's a 51.2V (48V) LiFePO4 battery that will hang on the wall right next to your inverters. This will keep your floor free of large racks.
The cell chemistry is LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) which is the leading chemistry for home storage. Each battery works with 48V equipment but is technically 51.2V nominal, 100Ah. This means you have 5.12kWh of capacity.
I run through a series of tests and was happy with it's outcome. Yes, I was able to overload and shut down the battery, but that was pushing it past it's 100A rating. When staying below 100A, the battery worked as advertised.
This is an excellent choice for small off grid solar systems where you don't need a full rack of batteries taking up floor space. Mounting a few of these on the wall will likely make for a cleaner installation on small off grid builds
5% Discount code: DAVIDPOZ
Powerwall battery is the newest version and hangs on the wall if you don't have a lot of floor space. The specs are the same as the server rack design, but in a vertical package: www.opsolarbat...
Orient Power Main Page: www.opsolarbat...
Jakiper PRO Battery: www.opsolarbat...
Rack with 4 batteries: Get a deal when buying the set of 4 with a steel rack: www.opsolarbat...
4 AWG (4 gauge) wires for connecting your batteries together: www.opsolarbat...
Rack alone: www.opsolarbat...
CC/CV charger for battery. (constant current, constant voltage)
www.opsolarbat...
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Videos:
Part 1: testing a single Jakiper battery. • Testing and Review of ...
Part 2: testing the full rack of Jakiper batteries: • Battery Banks - To Dai...
Busbar comparison: • Busbar Comparison Guide
Building the Watt meter: • Save Time and Hassle, ...
Disclaimer:
My videos are in no way intended to be instructional "how-to" lessons. I am simply documenting my project for informational purposes. Property damage, personal injury, or death may result, even when following manufacturer's instructions. I cannot be held liable for such damage or injury. It is YOUR OBLIGATION to ensure that you are complying with any local and federal laws as well as code and permit requirements.
David Poz, LLC
Thanks for the professional review, and the battery fit well with the GROWATT inverters.
For the manufacturering side:
We will add more EVA foam between the cells, and increase the height of the cell holder.
Over current was set as 110A with 1s delay for OCP protection, to be on the safe side. This setting can be easily adjusted from this smart BMS-PC Monitoring Software V2.04
Does this work with the Growatt SPH series like the SPH4600 Hybrid , a gridtied inverter supporting a 48V battery (16S 51,21V) ?
Usually a lot work with the SPF series (off grid) from the factory, but not with the SPH series ?
@@typxxilps For growatt inverter, in always inbuilt with many protorols, and you can load with the code, since we can't test all the inverter models, you can check your inverter if it has the following codes: L01--Growatt 485 protocol, L02--Pylon 485 protocol, L51--Growatt CAN protocol, L52--Pylon CAN protocol. Any of those protocol will fit with this battery.
@@powerwall Growatt here in Germany has been stopping to support any Pylon battery and they have removed Pylon completely from their website after some major issues between pylon batteries and Growatt inverters.
But L51 should do the trick cause I know from the chinese BMS manufacturer that the BMS they use to support multiple brand inverters had mentioned the CAN protocol 1.05 for the EFS off grid series which David and others had been using and the 1.01 for the SPH series, grid tied inverters (here in europe 230V).
That is why I had been asking cause the devil lays in the details.
Perhaps DP could do a follow up with the OCP adjusted a little to see if he can get over the device surges safely.
Nice to see a responsive manufacturer. Any plans to obtain a UL listing? Unfortunately, it's a deal breaker for my code authority.
Wow I love this new battery!! I watched your review on these Growatt inverters and am glad to say I bought one and am so glad!!! All the way from Nigeria one love!! I am so looking forward to buying this Orient Power lithium!! It suits me just fine!. Cheers.
Good suggestion about the steel channel being taller to help prevent the lid from contacting the terminals. However, the balance leads would need to relocated. Good observations. Thanks for sharing.
Good review. I think a lot of people would like to know how these do in multi-battery configurations and especially communications with common inverters.
For communication, we have on our channel. But if david can make it, it will be more professional demostrating.
Spec sheet says 110 amps for 1 sec discharge current cutoff, so you were just over at 111. Great video.
Good honest review. Exactly why we tune in.
Great and honest comment from you also.
My preference is for the cells to be in the vertical position in case of leaks like the way rack mounted batteries are built. Thanks for the great review and tough testing!
Now all these prismatic cells are fully laser welded.
Thanks for the great review. Good to see more wall mounted options on the market. Some of us just don't have the luxury of floor space for rack mount batteries.
Yeah, it's nice more options are coming to the market.
Thanks
HOWdy D-P,
thanks for this REVIEW
COOP
...
Nice video
We have a 100Ah pack at home, 2 Pylontech US2000 (50Ah each).
They can cover the 5.5kVA inverter nicely and they claim to support 100A each for 15sec, havent tested it ofc.
The recomended is 25A on each battery which is half of the inverter's capacity. We try to only use the power hungry appliances when there is sunlight to aid the batteries.
I always thought the wall hanging batteries would look better than the server rack battery. Thanks D
Yes, wall mounted much more nice and neat.
I do like wall mounted. Makes for a good look.
That looks like a well put together battery pack 👏
Thanks for your support.
It will be awesome in a small shed or rv in a sunny or windy state
Good review. Looks like a great pack. The wall stud is a none issue. If you a have 1/2" plywood or 3/4 OSB properly secured to a wall, using this bracket with all it's holes with 1" wood screws it will never come off me hanging on it as well. You don't need to find a studs unless your mounting through drywall, WHICH YOU SHOULDN'T BE😁.
Picking up 3 units tomorrow.
Best wishes to all from Ontario. Canada
Cheers
With these batteries on the wall, no hurricane or whirlwind will blow this house away ;-)
Those cell studs are huge, I like that. The way that cover is designed, I bet you can rotate it 180 degrees and screw it back on, then set the battery on the ground like a server rack battery with the connection end facing up and still be able to read the BMS screen.
Also, those main terminals look spaced perfectly where you could install an external busbar between them before attaching a cable ring lug and it would reduce the current and thus the heat buildup. I think the SOK and Jakiper could be hooked up the same way.
Love it! Thanks for sharing. Might be my go to for the house boat jobs. Where ground space is at a premium. I can see this working well in a vacation home or small cabin. Where you just need like 10 or 15 KWH. So like 3 on the wall. Those are SEXY!! Good job OrientPower
Sounds like that would be a great application for them.
A small cabin does not need 10kw
Thanks Bobby
David- very tank like build. I think sideways- you could get 4 mounted (oriented towards the Inverters) for a very clean & sturdy install. I think 4 mounted would be able to handle whatever load you threw at it (load capacity wise) and keep the average load well below the ideal 50% load capacity ideal. I appreciate your disassembling it for show & tell as well!
I agree, with 400 Ah, then it would handle any load my inverters could handle.
Most of the family preferred to have 400Ah
@@DavidPozEnergyi have a? For you. I have a stand alone meter from power co & my bill is under 600 kwh/month. What is the min size battery bank for this ?
Great review! Imma git me one for a GroWatt powered tiny house that we have on the property. Thank you!
Thanks David
The battery has protection for 100 amps so anytime you try to over 100 amps the BMS protects the battery and shuts down.
So, I really didn’t read that title as wall hung at first… I was like where are you going with this.
Haha. I'm not good with coming up with catchy titles.
That’s exactly what I read it as too. Dirty minds think alike.
Those long screws that David screwed into those studs; I'd say it's a well hung power unit.
I'm not a fan of the protruding nuts, either.
Looks like a decent battery, but I don't have enough wall space for these, sticking with my rack mount EG4-LL's :P Thanks for the video!
Where are the days when you used to sneak up on the batteries with a little tiny load increase this time you go right to the big guns right off the start ! LoL
LOL. I thought this was more fun. But, do you think I should go back to the old way Terry?
@@DavidPozEnergy Well if you need to make a longer video you could stretch it out more. I find it fun to watch your confidence level has gone up so much from when you started doing all this it's great.
They need to make the mounting bracket holes 16 inches on center as most US homes are configured.
Looking from the connection and power button it's like they intended it to be a horizontal stack.
A little isopropanol should let you rub off that "10%" label you crossed out. Works on pretty much all Sharpie type markers. Although scotch and vodka will work too. 🙂
I don't see any UL, CE, or other safety approval on the label. I really wish you would mention if the unit is Listed for use in North America or not. Other than that, nice-looking battery!
Has CE certs, working on UL.
@@powerwall Do you anticipate current units making UL, or would it be a new unit?
@@dvwatts I wouldn't put this cheap Chinese junk in my house. Maybe if I had a dedicated power outhouse or something to that degree... A lot of this Chinese stuff is tempting fate, I'd not gamble my families life on it.
Are you concerned about insurance purposes or for actual safety? You can easily take it apart and look to see if it's built safely or not. If insurance requires UL or other certs, then I understand. I personally will never have a battery bank in my home when I go off grid. I'll have a separate shed for all my batteries and inverters. Either a shipping container or a cinder block shed, so if a fire breaks out, it will be contained.
@PyroMan_FPV I agree with you on a dedicated solar/battery outhouse. Even the battery packs I put together myself I am always concerned so if I buy a cheap Chinese built unit, I will be 10x more concerned. Many things can go wrong with lithium and inverters, so living in the same place is just asking for trouble.
Great review and test!
It is meant to be wall hung. That is a feature not a limitation.
Of course it can be oriented any direction other than upside down, assuming sufficient air flow.
It can be disguised as a gas boiler! Awesome!
Why would you want to disguise it though?
David, another good video.
If the mounting bracket were to be made for 16" centers, the unit would have to be much wider than it is, using up valuable wall space unnecessarily. While it is true that the entire unit may be shorter if it were made wider to accommodate 16" centers, I would imagine more space is commonly available vertically that horizontally in most installations. Therefore, having the units being taller instead of wider is a better option. Having 3/4" plywood on the wall instead of OSB would make the mounting much more secure. Likewise, that "really large structural screw" you mentioned at 11:07 was a good idea but using two of them on that stud would have been much better.
If you were to mount four of these batteries, would you opt for two on each side of the inverter(s) or all four on one side?
BTW - Unlike @Stephen Sauder, I would like to see you return to your clean-shaven face.
Yeah, maybe can add 1 on left side.
If you cut a 16 inch osb, you could mount that to the studs
Wow, this is cheaper than the EG4 with shipping added on. OP only $99 vs Signature Solar $325 to ship to Indiana.
Thanks for the review David ☺️👍.
As you've pointed out in many of your videos, knowledge of your systems capabilities are vital!!
Might their be a review on (what appears to be) raw packaged cells at time 10:45 on the floor? I've always been a strong believer in building your own battery. Mainly due to cost being my limiting factor. The ultimate goal would be a true UL listed battery for additional safety margin the house.
You found the Easter egg! Haha. yes, those are raw cells I'm currently testing. I have lots of videos on my channel building batteries from raw cells. It's a lot of fun and a way to save some money.
@@DavidPozEnergy whoop whoop 😂🔋🙏!!!
Hi, about the lack of foam between the cells, I think there Is not really a need because It hangs on the wall. No sidewards force.
I have two LFP Orient Power Wall batteries 48V also known as Jakiper batteries with the off grid inverter Growatt SPF 5000ES with Victron battery monitor and busbar. Inverter is setup with the battery as Li and is communicating with the BMS.
All seemed to work fine for 3 months and now we are having massive issues of batteries suddenly dropping down to 0%.
Below is what I observed.
7th December 1pm SOC dropped from from 99% to 79% then after 5 minutes back to 99%. No one used the power that day or night.
14th December 1pm SOC dropped from 99% to 76% then back to 99%. We used power that night and once batteries got to 81% then dropped to 0%.
15th December, very sunny day and saw batteries charging all the way from 0% to 100% consistently. At night batteries dropped from 86% down to 0%.
I can't understand what could be causing that, are batteries faulty? Where does all the energy go if batteries indeed dropping to zero.
It might be a glitch in the software? I don't know for sure. If it were my setup, I'd remove one battery at a time and test it independently.
can I use this in an rv and step down to 12v? or is this not a practical solution?
Short answer is "yes", but it might not be the best.
Here is the situation I would use a step-down converter: If you have a large RV, with an inverter larger than about 3kW in size. So, perhaps, you have an 8kW inverter powering your RV so that you can be off-grid. This makes sense to run a 48V system. Then use the buck converter (48V to 12V) simply for lights.
However, if you have an existing 12V inverter (perhaps 2kW) that you like, then keep everything at 12V for simplicity.
I will keep building my own battery banks. I have yet to see a battery in these metal boxes that I like. You would think that a high quality ABS plastic box would be safer. I don’t want different BMS in my system. Not to mention that I can build them for half the price.
For the drier, can you start a cycle In tumble mode only without heat? Just to see if it wasn’t the surge of the starting motor AND heating element? If it remains on, can you then switch to heating mode? Or does the spin turn off when you switch modes?
Yes, in air only (no heat) it started it. Sorry not everything makes the final cut in the video.
Heya, nice battery still think they are high in price. qaulity seem good do
Thats some serious plate steel that the mount is made of lol.
On a different note did you ever get those 600 watt heating elements a while back. 👍
Realistically you wouldn't want to go much over 1C with those batteries anyway regardless of whether the BMS had more surge capacity. You could likely even go in and reprogram the surge settings in the BMS to give you say 10-30 seconds at 150A to prevent nuisance trips but 5.1KWh isn't very much energy when dealing with the backup of an entire house so going over a 3000 Watt inverter with one battery is probably not ideal. For those 2 inverters you probably don't want to go below 4 of these batteries in an off-grid whole house situation.
One thing that I notice is the no-load current draw on that pair of inverters seems very high for essentially idling unless noise is confusing the shunt measurement in the BMS. I would have expected less than 200-300 mA for each unit since they are not LF inverters. A well designed split phase 12KW LF inverter should be able to idle around 700-1200mA
The Growatts are a budget inverter option. When I first bought the Growatt inverter I tested it on my workbench, and I think it was 70W in idle (for 1 inverter).
@@DavidPozEnergy that's quite high, any power saving options David?
Hi A P, Yes, standby mode uses significantly less, that's more if you have it as a backup system.
Hey David, I didn't see, but did you use the communication cable with the battery?
As respects the battery it seems to match very well with the Growatt inverters.
Thanks for doing the research,..helping us with product choices.
The manual says it should connect nice with the Growatts, but I have not personally tested this option.
with growatt SPF 5000ES, CAT5 cable, only set inverter parameter '036' to 'L52', that is all.
Communication will be done.
I wonder why I am not getting notifications of your new videos on my Patreon account? That's a nice looking battery but, to make a large battery bank system you would need a lot of wall space. Even 6 of them will cover a lot of wall space.
I agree. The server rack style systems seems to be the best way to store battery packs. Takes up little space and makes wiring multiple packs easy with short wires.
Can you connect two or three of them together?
David, I ordere two of these batteries because of your review. I have hooked them up on a Growatt SPH5000 Inverter Growatt. But can't get these batteries to work properly. I've been in touch with both growatt and orientpower used various BMS CAN bus protocols i.e Growatt and Pylon, it works good for a day and I receive BMS errors 304 or 301 and my battery packs, I have 2 units stop discharging. Could you make a video how to properly set-up and or check or they work with the Growatt SPH series inverters?
Thanks in advance, Frank.
Hi Frank,
I'm terrible when it comes to computer stuff. Setting up CAN bus is one of those things I don't have a good grasp on. In my review, I used them as "open-loop". Open-loop means no data transfer, only power. Have you tried setting yours up that way?
Excellent video as always.David, between this power wall and the EG4 lifepower what would be your choice? if you see this as an investment is the extra $200 worth it?
If you only need 1 or 2 batteries (5-10kWh) then I like this powewall. It would have to be a specific use case where you know for certain you won't be trying to add in the future. However, if you are working toward taking the whole house off grid (as I am) then go with the EG4 batteries. The system Signature Solar built, with the 6x batteries and the cabinet with door and busbars is by far my favorite large system. Buy this cabinet with your first order, even if it's just 2 batteris: signaturesolar.com/pre-assembled-eg4-enclosed-battery-rack-6-slot-wheels-included/?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF- Then add more batteries as funds become available. I prefer the less expensive battery without a screen. signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-48v-100ah/?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF-
Of course, if you can buy all 6 batteries plus a cabinet from the start that's great.
Could you please check the QR Code of the cells and let us know the cell manufacturer and type of cell ?
Can you check the canbus / RS 485 communication with the growatt inverters ?
Is the turn on switch DC rated fuse box and how many A rated ?
The circuit breaker is rated for 60VDC. I checked the QR code and it looked like Grade A to me. Sorry, not everything can make the final edit of the video.
Great video , thx again Mr Poz ! I'm wondering about the EAsun on Amazon as its 1500 and no shipping cost.... just wondering if its a good unit, the price is right ! EG4 wants 450. just to ship from TX to me in NV ..; so really thinking of the EASun 200 ah , .... Thx again
Good news, Signature Solar is offering free shipping right now: signaturesolar.com/promotions?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF-
Am I correct in assuming that the battery manufacturer recommends charging to 80% of the actual capacity in order to maximise the battery life? And how much charge capacity remains after 5 years continuous use?
With lifepo4 cells, I wouldn't worry about it since they all have a 3000 charge cycle life until they drop to 80% of total capacity. That is 3000 FULL discharge and charge cycles. So a discharge to 50% back to 100% would be considered .5 charge cycle. For example, a 50kwh battery will be reduced to a 40kwh after 3000 cycles. In all honesty, the actual age of the cells will reduce their life more than the cycle count. 3000 cycles is like 8 years of discharging 100% every day and most people never do that. These are 15-20 year cells in all reality. Regular lithium cells like standard 18650 only have a 500-600 charge cycle before they drop to 80% capacity, so charging to 80% is much more useful to increase battery life.
Nice
Thanks.
Can this battery is able to do "closed loop"!conection with Sol-Ark or Victron?
Are those self serviceable ?
What size solar system
Require for this battery?
Hi, awesome review, I'm starting to like this battery more and more. I would like to ask if it would be possible to use the battery in an upside-down position for a small portable solar system. (For example, on the hand truck) This battery would be placed at the bottom and above it All-In-One Inverter. This battery would be rotated by rotated 180degree under All-In-One inverter. Rotated 180degree, because the connections between the All-In-One inverter and the Rotated battery they would be nice close to each other this way. Probably this should be possible as the battery cells are solidly secured position inside, but then is it possible to rotate the LCD display 180degree in it as well? I'm not asking for a rear mount this, can definitely be sorted out, there's plenty of steel there.
Thank you for your answer, best regards.
Tibor (Czech Republic)
I see no reason it can't be used upside down.
No cooling installed? What are the battery temperatures during charging and discharging?
Under the heaviest test (94A for 1 hour) I think I saw the cells get up to 32°C.
I need help
i have installed 36 PV panels , 6 PVs for each residence (we are 6 residences in a building , separate inverters but with SHARED water pump)
the question is: can i connect these 36 PV all together ( in addition to their initial tasks) to power up a seventh inverter that is going to be used for the shared-water-pump ?
cool
Who is that guy? I recognize the voice and laugh but its not our David Poz with the crew cut....
The battery looks so nice, its sad that its wall mounted (huge waste of space),
but maybe it might be useful for some edge cases.
Also its a bummer how aggressive this BMS is,
this chemistry should be able to handle up to 10C, so instantly shutting down at 1C is bad.
It would be much better to have shutdowns set to 20s at 2C, 1s at 4C and instant at 8C.
The limitations may be in the wiring and other connections, rather than the battery. Better safe than sorry!
Why not check the qr code on batteries? Thus determining what the batteries output per spec Sheet. I think bms limits are a bit low. Maybe use a in rush current meter.
This is a smart BMS, parameter can be adjusted by yourself easily.
I wonder if this would perform better if ran through an inverter with a heavy transformer like the Sungoldpower.
Tested with sungoladpower at factory, it works good. Communication also support.
@@powerwall that’s my point. That massive spool of metal creates a lot of flexibility for initial power surges. In this video I saw the inverter failing repeatedly, not the battery station.
just bought my second one using your code. been using the first one for about 4 months now and it's working excellent. got a question when installing the second one I'm going to use 2awg cable from batteries to busbar and from busbar to inverter going to use 2/0 awg cable it's that good?
2AWG is the smallest I would use, and larger is better. Each of these batteries can deliver 100A, so a 2AWG is OK if 3 feet or less to the busbar. If it's more than 3 feet to the busbar, then you might want to do a Voltage drop calculation.
I don't know the size of your inverters. How many Amps the inverters can pull, for how long, and the wire length to the busbars, will all come into play to determine the correct wire size.
thanks for the reply. ok well from battery to busbar its 4 feet and I have #2 awg and from the busbar to the inverter (eg4 6000xp model) its 3feet and I'm planning to use 2/0 awg cable
That should be fine with one 6000XP.
@@DavidPozEnergy ok thanks
I can imagine me trying to do this, I am totally lost.
It's a fancy battery that lets me store solar energy for use at night.
Compared to the sok battery what would say is the better battery?
I've never tested the SOK brand battery. I prefer only sharing my thoughts on equipment I've personally tested.
@@DavidPozEnergy Thank you, very similar battery to the SOK, the one You tube on SOK claimed 104 amps for 20 minutes while charging a car. Not sure 5 amp difference is enough to sway me on the cost difference. These Orient are at a great price point. Appreciate your review. I am connecting them to a sol- ark has any one tested the coms from Orient battery to a sol-ark?
'
Greetings David, I have a photovoltaic system that consists of 20 kilos of Orient Power batteries and a Scnheider 6848 pro inverter. My system is for net measurement, I only use the batteries when there is no electricity, at this moment I am having a problem and that is that when the batteries are at 100% charge and it takes days without being used, the batteries turn off and the inverter turns off since the batteries remain in a state of hibernation, when I check the batteries are 100% charged. I would like to know if there is any way to prevent my batteries from turning off since when the inverter turns off the whole house turns off. Thanks in advance
I hadn't heard of that before. I'd try to put some kind of load on the battery in order to use it. If you have the Schneider software, and an Insight Home, you can go into advanced settings. In the advanced settings you might be able to set up "Time Of Use". You could try telling the inverter to use some of the battery power during the day, and re-charge again at night. It's just an idea, I have not tried this. I use my system off grid, with my solar.
@@DavidPozEnergy Thank you very much for your answer. I will try to do what you tell me about the insight, since it is a good idea.
Ok last 2 questions, I hope, and I'll ne donating to ur channel:)
If Hrow watts have internal charge controls, how does that affect different arrays?
Or you just plug each array on the different circumstances on the grid watt panel?
And can yoy mix batteries? Lithium and regular?
And can you mix voltage with your batteries banks?
Like have 4 - 3 volts and the rest 12 volts,
1. Only 1 Solar array per charge controller. In this case the charge controller is built into the Growatt inverter. I have 2 Growatt inverters, and each has it's own solar array. The two solar arrays are completely separate from each other.
2. There are ways of mixing batteries, but it's tricky and not something I can explain in a comment. It's easier and safer to stick with 1 type of battery.
3. Mixing Voltages? If you are asking: Can you connect a 12V battery to a 48V battery, then the answer is only through an isolated DC to DC converter.
dave are you using eversourse for your electric its going up to 41 cents a kilowatt for december and 48 cents in jan 2023 arent you glad your off the grid
At least 95% of these will not be mounted properly including those done by 'experienced professionals'. Prelude:
Failure mode is the most important part of safety. If this drops, the case will likely be damaged shorting cells, and the associated wiring can rip other things attached to it down when that happens, and a fire is almost a certainty. Given this extreme hazard, ONLY the best possible mounting will do; there is no "good enough" here.
The supplied expanding anchors and all similar types including lag shields are for solid poured concrete mounting ONLY. They are not to be used with concrete block or brick, as tightening them exerts a radial force which can crack block and brick allowing the anchor to pull out. For brick "Tapcon" screws serve well and give the best holding strength with the least stress on the brick. They can work well for block where the 'webbing' is solid, but in places where there is no 'webbing' "toggle bolts" are a much better choice. Those need to be a fairly large diameter and not over-tightened.
On wood framed walls you MUST anchor into the center of a stud. OSB, Advantek, particle board and the like are NOT rated for threaded fastener pull-out, and by their nature can fail losing all holding strength instantly without warning. Plywood is better but is still weak in this regard sometimes having a similar instant failure mode and sometimes by splitting along the grain of the glued-up veneer. Moisture can exacerbate these problems. Good enough for lighter loads but not in this range, and not where failure can lead to catastrophic results.
Best strength can be had by using structural screws or lag bolts ran straight into the center of a wall stud. Off-center or not going straight in loses holding strength quickly, so accuracy is needed, and here's how to determine perfect center easily. First locate your chosen stud by whatever method you prefer (stud-finder, rapping, noting where existing fasteners are etc). Drive a large nail (at least 10d size) into that point stopping before the head reaches flush as you'll be pulling it. You should note increased resistance to driving as you get close to fully driven. If at having driven to the thickness of the wall covering driving resistance does not keep increasing you're not on the stud. Now pull your nail and move it about 1/16" (1mm) to the left and do this again, repeating as necessary. When you find the point where driving resistance isn't increasing, you've just missed the stud- mark that spot and pull your nail. Now move to the right from the mark ~1 1/4" (32mm) and repeat the process in the other direction. When you find that edge, mark it Center of your two marks is center of the stud. Why not skip this and trust your studfinder/knuckle/existing fastener? Those can have a slight error and mislead you; we need the best and only physically proving the location is sufficient for this critical need.
Now that you have center we need to consider the fastener. Structural screws will be easiest as they include a self-drilling feature and the point taper is designed to balance their cutting with radial pressure to give the best holding power. You want to use ones with around 5/16" (8mm) plain shaft diameter. Lag bolts of a similar diameter will work equally well but do need a pilot hole to prevent splitting the stud. A drill of 1/4 the diameter of the bolt or slightly smaller is good. Which brings us to fastener length. Add up the thickness of the bracket and the wall covering (don't forget the sheetrock under any plywood or tileboard you have mounted), then add 2" (50mm) to that figure. This is your minimum length, 2 1/2" (63mm) is about ideal. Longer can do but too long can exit the stud on the other side. Tighten these until everything is pulled tight to the stud underneath then 1/4 turn more. Overtightening can strip the wood rather easily so if in doubt, less is more. Also do0 not use sheetrock screws, deck screws, or screws you have in your junkbox for mounting heavy items, as these can be too brittle, too soft, have too fine of threads for best holding power, or have shallowly cut threads. Only structural screws and lags are rated for this kind of use so spend a few bucks and get them to know you'll never have problems.
Apologies for the wall of text but as simple as it may seem, I think now you can understand both how to do this the right way and why doing it the right way matters. If you want some fun try different ways of screwing and lagging into a scrap of stud compares in the effort it takes to pull them; you'll; be amazed at how much difference there is. Or just do it as I've described, taking advantage of my 45 years experience and all the special studies and training I have in structural wood work and repairs,but always remember that when someone's life may depend on it, only doing it the right way will do the job.
David, I don't know your demographics for who watches your videos, but the website links are really got US only and I think Orient Power has European distribution as well (under the Jaikper brand). It might be worthwhile adding links for that if OP have them? I am talking with my father in law about a group buy, so there's a chance I will need a few.
They do have price in euro and distribution in Europe on their website as well now
This is Paul Theisen, we can also text, if that helps
When will you test an AC coupled battery?
AC coupling is done with certain inverters. Schneider, Sol-Ark, Outback, and SMA all have inverters that support AC coupling. I have tested the SMA inverters with AC coupling, and they work great doing it.
Can this be upgraded by adding batteries expandable to ?
Absolutley! Parallel as many as you need, or can fit on your wall.
@@DavidPozEnergy ok 👌 if your not home 🏡 could your wife flips some switches to get power back on. Over the year’s we’ve seen her in the background with the cameras so I’m thinking that she may be more or less up on what you have. But I’m thinking about my wife or daughter needing to reset a breaker. But to have them check a battery 🔋 or grid reset? Thanks for your work.
Hi David. Wat is the total amps of your solar array going into one inverter and what happens to the excess amps if it is more than the max pv current 22A than the manual state? Some people say it will damage the inverter and other say it gets clipped and only use 22A. My array is 160voc and 27A. 3 strings of 4 panels per series string then paralleled that gives me 160voc at 27A.
My Growatt inverters have a maximum PV Amps of 18A. I feed it with 19A potential from my Solar array and that last 1A get's clipped. However, I wouldn't feed it with more than say, 20A, because at some point the short-circuit current might become too great. Some charge controllers actually tell you what the maximum short-circuit current rating is, but I don't see that for my Growatt.
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks for your response David. The new version from Growatt is 22A. Guess i must learn to live with longer charging time in winter.
Did you scan the cell QR code?
Great job but the price still high for kwh
I'm curious what material the jumpers between the terminals are made from. Copper or Brass?
Great job great video the battery package is garbage it wouldn’t run my house
1 battery wouldn't run my house either. You can parallel multiples together to get the capacity you need for your application.
They have a 4-pack on their website.
Why would you expect a 5kwh pack to run an entire house? No pack that small is capable of doing that much load.
A bit off topic but thougth maybe you could help me out, fingers crossed. Can an Automatic Buss Transfer switch be used to switch between Uitilities and solar/battery power? Can you recommend one if so. Only loads like lighting and fridge would be on circuit in need of power.
A lot of these inverter/chargers will have a built-in relay that can switch for you.
@@DavidPozEnergy in my case I only will have solar panels installed and the installer tells me when the grid goes down so do my solar panels. How are they doing that? He said something about the meter allows backfeeding onto the grid thereby not allowing me to use my panels as part of a ABT if that makes sense. Want to add batteries later but not sure if this setup will allow it?
There's a lot more to it then I'll be able to get into on the comments. But there are solutions to being able to backfeed the grid, and have backup. One solution is to AC couple with a Schneider XW Pro. But there are lots. If your particular installer isn't familiar with designing a grid tied and battery backup system, then perhaps talk with more installers who can help?
@@DavidPozEnergy Thank you for taking the time to answer.
Wait a second. Let’s talk about why the single GroWatt turned off due to low voltage but the other did not. From my point of view, that means you have “half” the power still being supplied to your load center. And perhaps to those 240 volt devices, well 120. Why wouldn’t both turn off due to a fault like that?
Each inverter is 240V AC only. You might want to check out this video: th-cam.com/video/2eF7zxmKBAg/w-d-xo.html And then this video where I show making 120V from it: th-cam.com/video/yWUfvvSa3K8/w-d-xo.html
Any idea what size bolts are the right ones for the wire lugs on the bottom of that unit? It doesn't seem to come with the bolts. I got the plastic lug covers in red and black, but not the bolts in the box.
I just measured mine. They are:
M8-1.25 thread
150mm length
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks! I'll pick some up - mine didn't have those so makes bolting things to the lugs hard to do.
If you reach out to Orient Power, they might send you some. Worth an email at least.
The bms is a bit of a pity, such a big battery could do at least 200A...
Discharge max 100A @ 51.2V = 5120 VA (Watts)/120V = 42.6A (never fails).
What do you mean "never fails"?
hi David,I'm wishing that this coming Christmas u can commission me of your old inverter I'm from Philippines 220 volts 60hz .it's very useful here it's favorite of most of the typhoon..... I hope u have one.
Forgive the embarassing question, but really been obsessed with your channel but something I've struggled with watching yours and other channels, it is never obvious to me when you should/can be touching terminals and bare wires - when to wear lineman gloves or just general safety working with all this stuff. Do you have or can you recommend a good instructional video going over safety?
Hi. The batteries I've been testing recently have a circuit breaker built into them. So I'm often doing the wiring without gloves because the circuit breaker is OFF. In older videos when I'm DIY cells into batteries I'm wearing gloves more often. However, it is certainly best practices to always wear safety gear.
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks! if you ever feel like doing a longer form safety recap, would be very interested.
the promo code does not work on battery purchase
Hi, the discount code is working on all the products ( except 4xjakiper, and 5xjakiper kits.)
Their QA department isn't great as they spelled capacity as capactiy at 19:08
Is that growatt inverters can handle Aircon ?
I have 3 window AC's, and 1 mini-split currently running on my Growatts.
@@DavidPozEnergy request for detailed video on running Aircon on growatt inverters
Thank you and best regards from Philippines 🇵🇭
Get a mini split and never worry about if a inverter can handle AC. They have no surge loads and are way more efficient (btu/watt) than window/portable/traditional central air units.
I'D RATHER HAVE IT WORK THAN LOOK PRETTY.
wont work at siberia darlinks
David, I am curious if you will be looking at battery systems that can do a grid tie, along with a grid tied solar array?
Bolts, brackets, anchors...real men only need industrial Velcro.
🙂
LOL. That would be fun to see.
@@DavidPozEnergy Try attaching to things with one square foot of either the 3M or Velcro industrial grade. Give it 48 hours for the adhesive to set.
You will require tools to get them apart. I have a granite tabletop attached that sitting to a pillar base. You'd think it was welded.
HAha, I can just see the people putting those anchor bolts in drywall. :D
This video is brought to you by dollar shave club.
Thats not a Battery! It's a portable Hernia.!!🤣🤣🤣🤣
How big are you growing your beard? Big beards are the best. I’m biased as I have a big beard.
Will you check the BMS cause I guess that this is configureable and that you can change the canbus from one inverter brand to another like sma or goodwe?
I have seen these before somewhere cause I can remember those big bracket as als wall mount due to its design and thick metall when I was torn to get a wall mounted from china or to build one for growatt inverters buying the cells and bms like you had done it before.
Quite a long way from the first battery over the split AC and the car battery from the SMART and all the others. So I had a huge choice after following your channel from the beginning. good job.