ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- The Creality CR10 is an awesome printer for the price, and with a combination of cheap & printed upgrades, it can become even better!
Parts used: (Amazon/Thingiverse links)
Beard saver: www.thingiverse.com/thing:281...
TL Smoothers: amzn.to/34F1hFR
Electrical tape: amzn.to/3gyeqmo
CR10 Legs: www.thingiverse.com/thing:284...
Bungee cords: amzn.to/3b4CFr9
Heatsink/motor damper combo:amzn.to/3hCDXfh
Nozzle pack: amzn.to/32ualdX
120mm fan control box bottom: www.thingiverse.com/thing:283...
Cheap/cool 120mm fans: amzn.to/2YHt3xA
Single-gear metal extruder: amzn.to/2EGfPdc
DUAL-gear extruder: amzn.to/31zxOuZ
Direct-Drive extruder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:358...
Battery-backup: amzn.to/2YCVGM7
Raspberry Pi3B (Octoprint): amzn.to/3hAvDNh
Download my videos at lbry.tv/@3DPC:d
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LOL I thought I was the only one that got my beard caught in the Y axis, hilarious.
Same
I use old gpus for heat in the winter, you think noise scares me? I felt this.
To quieten mine down I stood each foot onto a washing up sponge (with attached scourer) and then a cork coaster and this has made it so much better
Great video and love all the mods you have mentioned. The one that I really like and want to learn more is if using the 0.6 nozzle what are some of the changes I will need to make in cura to use this size nozzle.
Did some of your dampers have cracked already? another great upgrade is the bl touch, the configuration gave me headaches but when it was done *puff* it was one of the best experiences on the cr10
My CR10S4 mods so far:
1) Magnet bed (64 pcs) with flexible metal sheet + LokBuild surface
2) Linear rails at all axis (HIVIN version 12)
3) Instead of Raspberry I'm using BananaPi M3 with additional hdd +Logiteh 930e webcam + Octoprint
4) All fans replaced with noctua or other silent ones
5) Replaced stock heater to Keenovo 230V (great time performance - to 60C now I need just less than 4 min)
6) SKR V1.4 turbo with TMC 2209
7) Belts tentioners + also Z synchronizer
8) Orginal EZABl Pro from TH3D
9) Orginal MicroSwiss all metal hot end
10) replaced stock extruder with all metal + 2 gears
11) Still have TL-smoothers (I was just too lazy to take them off :)
12) Of course Marfin firmware updated
Those are the most important upgrades. There also were some minor but doesn't affect quality of print, so it wasn't worth to mention about.
@@MevRB19 :) You are wrong. Knowledge is priceless, money are worth nothing besides a fact that people used to pretend it's opposite. In case like that you replied from device which tommorow will be a garbage, right ? ;) If you so much care about money you lost some amout , while I was having awesome time tinkering. And the most important: you have judgged a 1 year old comment, which is related to printer which was very popular 5 years ago and that far ago all mods were done. Those time it was gad damm worth it! ;) My advice : read and ovething twice before putting meaningless replay. Cheers
Wow! I can't get past all the mess, sent my OCD into overdrive 😂
Those legs are so high they probably introduce print artifacts from vibrations.
SKR 32bit boards are cheap as hell and they'll drop your noise as well as eliminating salmon skin (original CR-10 boards didn't the type of stepper drivers that caused it anyway) they use TMC 2209's which don't generate as much heat as well as giving you the ability to adjust your vref without fiddling with tiny pots.
yeap, the way is 32bits processing and new driver for motor..... love printing and wife dont complain..kkkkkk
Yes, the printer is shaking very visibly in the video which cannot be desirable. Even the table might not be level or wobbles a bit. A heavy table would be desirable, which can also be achieved through adding weight on top. Concrete terrace slabs are cheap and do the job - also to raise the printer without adding more wobble…
stl for usb cable holder?
Couple of suggestions ....... put a appropriate size ( either furnace or another type ) filter . Over those double fans if experiencing a dust buildup . Vibration mats for the tables . They’re made in various lengths , widths and thicknesses .
My CR10
BIGTREETECH SKR E3 DIP V1.0 32Bit Control Board - Board was very cheap lol
Kingprint TMC2208 V3.0 Stepper Damper with Heat Sink Driver UART - made the movements a lot quieter
BLTouch
Marlin 2.0.7.2
Upgraded fans in the control box to make it quieter.
Filament holder from control box bolted on the z axis top mount, fits perfect like it was suppose to be there.
I have a cr-10 v3 but I tried every thing but when i start the printer .. it gives 62 degrees bed temperature even when its 19 degrees .. en 51 nozzle temperature .. it wil not go lower ...
1:10 One smal hint: cut off the welded pins on the backside of PCB before applying tape as insulator ... 😄
just ordered a cr-10 smart, did i make a mistake?
Dude, you're hilarious. Great vid!
Will this available in India?
I also make music with my cr-10 pro lol. I've listened to it and thought, damn . .there's a miniature orchestra inside this thing.
My CR10 modifications:
Single motor dual Z-Drive
Motordampers
Linear rails for Y-Axis
Rubin Nozzle
Buildtak
Top holder for filament spools
To do:
Footprint reduction by unhousing it, Moving PSU to it's side
Ledge K 32 Bit Board with TFT Touchscreen and 2208 drivers
Switching dual extruder
Hi! What's that support you are using for direct drive the MK8 extruder?
In the description, I linked the dual-gear extruder plus a Thingiverse link to the printed direct drive conversion piece. The carriage that rolls along the X axis rail is unchanged, just moved the extruder much closer to the hotend.
Once you unplug the power cord, the highest voltages in a 3D printer controller are either 12 volts or 24 volts, depending on whether the printer is ... well ... 12 volts or 24 volts. You MAY be able to feel 24 volts, but most people can't. (I'm a retired electrical engineer - I've been "stung"many times, but never with anything under about 45 volts. (And that's barely enough to realize that you got a shock.) Turn the power supply on again after unplugging it, if you must, but it really won't make any difference if you happen to touch a 24 volt point and ground at the same time. (I'm not advocating ignoring a danger - I'm very risk-averse - but 24 volts is hardly enough to worry about. (The higher voltages inside a switching supply are ... inside. Unless you take the cover off the power supply itself, you can't get to those voltages.)
It´s about the big capacitors in the power supply if I understood the video correctly. They can still hold high voltage after unplugging the machine, if they're not drained.
The PSU might be encapsulated anyhow, which would make it impossible to touch the capacitors…
Mods on my cr10s:
-Enclosure
-Magnetic bed (later removed)
- 0.7 nozzle (i dont print figurines, just functional stuff)
- Automatic shut off after end of print
- cable extensions
5 or 6 years old and still prints ok
7:20 Yee-Haw!
lol, seeing a 5h print take 1h, with the same nozzle! will make you think "wow, I can't believe people are using big nozzles" lol, I love the fine details yet lightning speed of my printer lol, 300mm/s and even that's not fast!
Lmao "not over it yet emotionally"
I'm having a heck of a time getting good prints off my CR-10. I did the whole TH3D upgrade gamut but it didn't really help, and now I'm getting random print-stopping connection drops from Octoprint. I think I got a lemon. Anyways, I'll try a few of these before totally giving up.
Try using a different USB cable, it might be too old or have a break somewhere inside that you can't see.
I thought that these new generation 3d printers no longer benefit from tlsmoothers?
That may be true, the main printer I tested this on was from 2018, but likely made in 2017. The mainboard in this particular unit had other design flaws like difficulty stabilizing the nozzle temp (getting stuck in preheat stage of a print, unable to settle in on a specific temp). My later CR10s don't have that particular issue.
Yee-Haw!
yee-haw
Bro, you need to fix your cable. It's dragging across the edge of your bed.
So many things wrong with your list, even the things you installed you did wrong.
1. TL smoothers- good- you should have them on every axis including both Z and E
2. Stepper heatsinks- dumb- If your steppers get that hot, you need to check the trim pot voltages
3. Dampers- good- You should have the motors mounted on both sides via back braces with dampers so you maintain rigidity and the dampers don't wear out.
4. Bigger nozzle- dumb- you just need to change your line width in your slicer, you can safely print to .6mm and possibly .8mm depending on the geometry of the nozzle with a .4mm nozzle, in which the minimum line width should be .5mm.
5. Dampening feet- good - you should use foam golf balls in the feet, for better isolation, this will not only help with sound but also help with ghosting.
6. Bungie cords- dumb- this will cause too much friction on the filament spool causing your filament to stretch or strip going into the extruder.
7. There is no high voltage stored in the PSU
Things you didn't mention that are easily Top 10.
Z Braces
Dual Z (if truly a standard CR10)
Textured PEI spring steel print bed
Auto bed leveling
Enclosure
Marlin 2.x firmware
Yehaw
Sorry, but the CR10 is far away from beeing an awesome printer. If it would be awesome you woun't need to add a ton of modifications/improvements to it. But it's cheap and that's the only reason why it's so popular. The frame is to high so it produces a lot of strange resonance frequencies, the bowden extruder is placed directly behind the spindel (WTF?), the x-axis hangs in the air on one side which works probably for small printers but not for a monster like CR10. The wheeles design is crap because thausand of CR10 Users think their poor print quality come from a loose belt tension...and there are many more design faults on CR10.
Yee-Haw!