How to Move a Door Frame Over ~ DIY Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Newsletter ▶ skill-builder.... ◀
Special thanks go to Ivan Coverdale
Ivan Coverdale Property Maintenance
Ayr, Scotland
Phone: 07871 240604
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Moving a door frame in an old Victorian house can be challenging due to these buildings' age and construction style. The process involves several steps, including removing the existing frame, cutting out old bricks, constructing new stud work, and finishing with plaster.
Tools and Materials Needed
• Safety gear (gloves, goggles, dust mask)
• Brick chisel and hammer
• Reciprocating saw or angle grinder
• Spirit level and measuring tape
• Wooden studs and plywood
• Plaster and plastering tools
• Construction adhesive and screws
Step 1: Planning and Preparation
• Assess the Wall: Determine if the wall is load-bearing. If so, consult a structural engineer.
• Measure the New Location: Accurately measure where the new door frame will go.
• Prepare the Area: Remove any obstructions and ensure the working area is safe.
Step 2: Removing the Old Frame
• Carefully dismantle the existing door frame.
• Remove any nails or screws fixing the frame to the wall.
Step 3: Cutting Out Old Bricks
• Mark the outline for the new door on the brick wall.
• Use a brick chisel, hammer, or reciprocating saw to carefully remove the bricks within the marked area.
• Continuously check for level and plumb to ensure a straight cut.
Step 4: Constructing the Studwork
• Measure and cut wooden studs to fit the new opening.
• Assemble the frame using screws and construction adhesive.
• Ensure the frame is securely attached to the surrounding structure.
Step 5: Fitting the New Door Frame
• Install the new door frame within the stud work.
• Use a spirit level to ensure it's perfectly level and plumb.
• Secure the frame to the stud work.
Step 6: Plastering and Finishing
• Apply plasterboard to cover the stud work, cutting it to fit snugly around the door frame.
• Plaster over the plasterboard for a smooth finish.
• Sand and paint as required to match the existing wall.
Safety Considerations
• Always wear appropriate safety gear.
• Be cautious of electrical wiring or plumbing in the wall.
• Consider the structural integrity of the wall throughout the process.
Moving a door frame in an old Victorian house requires precision and attention to detail. Following these steps will help ensure a successful renovation while preserving the integrity and style of the home.
Remember, for structural changes in historic homes, it's always recommended to consult with professionals, including structural engineers and experienced contractors, to ensure the safety and preservation of the property.
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#diy #construction #homeimprovement
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Chop the plaster just past the stud and cut your plaster board to sit past the stud onto the brick wall to stop a crack appearing in future. Dot and dab that
Excellent, and entertaining commentary.
That was fun ! I need to get out more or get something more. Thanks.
I tend to mortar the top of the lintle before I push it up, then you know there are no gaps. Wack the acros underneath, level up, then finish up with a little bit of pointing. Do all the other stuff afterwards.
The way they buttered that up looked a bit gappy
@@superiorbeing95 love a bit of butter.
Seems silly not to have a secondary acro in place after a few bricks removed, rather than remove all necessary bricks leaving wall unsupported?
What? The lintel is supporting everything which is supported by an acro, this is done to code
@@mafftv3801at 1.30 what is holding the wall up? The acro is holding the old lintel
@@mafftv3801 I 'm guessing you're an American. I know you're not a Brit.
I guess after years of hard experience one achieves an enlightment where he can look at the wall and know if it'll fall or not :-). That's what the customer pays them for!
@@weekendwarrior3420 I get that, but walls move very fast under load, it works until it don’t and all that
Excellent… I love this instructional type video👍
more of these please.
Didn’t think the video would interest me but watched it all now I’m sat wondering can I move any doors 👍
Hey Roger and team, Ross here (leaky rooflights, Stafford). In the last 2 weeks we've put in a soakaway, moved an air brick above grade and next week I am moving a door opening, it's like you're reading my mind with your videos recently. In this vid there's a few moments where the bricks are unsupported, is there a rule of thumb on how many bricks wide you can safely open up on a single skin wall like this? I'm guessing there's not too much weight above here.
No packers, no levelling ,straight joint above frame will always crack and butt joints
Great commentary Roger, though I’m not sure if you were joking about reusing those door stops!
I thought they would just move the whole liner across but when I saw the saw I knew it was game over
“In like kinky swimwear” liked that Roger. 😂
Thanks for posting!
i read somewhere (can't remember where now, i'll see if i can find it) that for concrete lintels (i think they used the term simple lintel) under 1200mm you only need 100mm bearing rather than the 150mm. this is only for single skins though, absolutely not for cavity walls
Why didn't they use a strong boy on the top of the acro?
Robert clevert must be struggling to watch this 😂
I want put in higher doors in my downstairs (1949 semi), this job is similar it seems. I didn't think I'd need lintels but maybe I do. I want doors to be 10cm higher, for aesthetic reasons, as the ceiling is high and I think it would be an improvement.
If there is an existing lintel that needs removing - you almost certainly need a new lintel higher up to do this in which case you require building regs as it is structural works
great job
I hardly ever pick holes in other peoples work but from a builder, bit rough tbh, the first acro was doing nothing, complete waste of time, a strong boy should’ve been put in above the slot they were cutting mid span, you don’t ‘swap’ things quickly so nothing falls, I was cringing when it was open unsupported.
We won’t mention no safety glasses, no mask, no water on the disc cutter, didn’t see any pva.
Insulation was abit too tight, seen by all the creases. Where it's located next to a big hole, who cares, but would take a bit more care on exterior walls and such.
Rather them than me using a disc cutter indoors with no water or dust masks. No PPE anywhere in fact. The brickwork should have been supported before chopping out and joints above and below that lintel should be pointed in with a pointing trowel, not gobbed up with a gauging trowel! Love Skill Builder but there’s a fair bit to criticise in this video.
Shouldn't the pb be cut short of the floor and dpm be under the bottom of the stud?
yes
What if the architraves are metal? 1955 house in Sussex
I'm only an enthusiast DIY'er but shouldn't there have been a gap between the bottom of the plasterboard and the floor?
If you're meaning the bit where he used the plasterboard plane thing to skim off a bit, then I think there was a gap. It's just that there's a bit just in front of the plasterboard that is preventing the new piece being pushed in. Looks like he lifts slightly when it slots in, so there's likely a small gap there.
Should have been more of a gap, stops a potential leak rising up the plasterboard
What screws are they?
no needles? ,
need a strong boy ducky ?
Insulation??? I use that to send amzon parcels back
noiice
Interior brick. Interesting.
No masks or ear defenders used at any point. Very nice. Proper men don’t need hearing. Proper lads have severe lung conditions! Top drillers die early! Whey!
Got a man coming to do this at our gaff next week
But the dust is the thing that we really want to avoid, any suggestions folks?
Thanks
Water feed on the disc cutter will reduce the dust vastly.
Chain drill with dust extraction, takes a little longer, but well worth to keep the dust down.
Water and lots of plastic sheet if require capture the waste water include absorption mats from nearest DIY store. Maybe also want to plastic sheet around the work area create a curtain. Got one to do in a block of flats double imperial bricks. Probably turn the water dust suppression right down and just accept going to be a bit dusty. Better than ruining the neighbour’s ceiling.
@@peterdorr6190👍 most people are running the water at too high a flow rate on suppression kit anyway. You only need enough to wet the dust and get it to clump or paste, not pissing all over the shop.
It could be drilled. Of course it takes longer but the dust mostly falls to the ground rather than getting blasted everywhere. Drilling from both sides can leave a pretty tidy 'cut' edge.
Bit of a strange this one. There was nothing wrong with the original post unless the size was not good for a new door... And it was not entirely unfunny that you said that he did not use a gauze band, oh you can also do the gauze/paper band later and that is even better and then oops, none was shown to be used after all 😆
A few pieces of slate in between the lintel and brick work prior to pointing in would be a better option, belt and braces on any wall tbh.
a lot og building inspectors don't like slate packers because it creates point loads
@@SkillBuilder some don't because they don't realise that point loads are only applicable at point, a correctly installed, non compressible material at regular points is far better, than installing a lintel and then applying mortar mixture retrospectivley
@@troyboy4345I like to use some chewing gum and cardboard. Does the trick and allows for movement.
@@tanja8907 A lot of building inspectors don't like Chewing gum or cardboard because it contracts during the curing process, hope this helps ?
Staring right now at a wall marked up for a slap through. I like the idea of the acrows pushing up the lintel to compress the mortar. The structural drawing I have doesn’t request packers. I bought quick dry mortar Blue Circle virtual no shrinkage. A plan to hire a Genie Lift 8 two approximate 40kg lintels 80kg total. Lift up, wheel them into the cut out, single middle prop and a XL Strongboy. The 115mm Evolution disc cutter I bought very impressed it sliced through both 150mmx100mm lintels no problem include reenforcement. Great video as ever Skill Builder.
That brought back painful memories of builders doing our bathroom. We are still living with the destruction.
Are concrete lintels need to be put in while bricklaying, so they are under tension for maximum strength? Know everyone is using it for alter alternations like the one here, but my technical mind is asking me this question.
Are the any structural engineers here ?
You are right to say that pre-stressed concrete lintels need to be built in with at least 3 courses of bricks but you can see that the span on this lintel is only about half its length. It is put in for convenience.
👍
Homeowners: "But why does it cost so much just to move a door a few inches?"
"Love those screws" WHAT SCREWS?!
No mask, no ear protection and no eye protection.
Thank Christ he couldn't hear or see you say that. The names he'd have called you. If his vocals chords hadn't been lost when his lungs went.
Then they moan when they got a piece of brick in their eye 😂
Really P the hire company off by cutting the handle off a strong boy so you can get it in up against the ceiling, I'm not going to be a smart arse and say you're supposed to have 6 new courses layed over the lintel, I never do as long as it’s packed like they did it's fine, I've never had a call back ( never give them you're phone number 😂 )
Am I missing something here, what was the point of moving the door 1 foot across? 😄
To fit those new kitchen units in on the other side.
Keep walking into the wall otherwise!
Feng Shui, obvs.
Ive heard there are more horses alive today than in 1900…
Well, the French have got to have something to eat.
Handyman special 🙈🙈🙈 why have unnecessary joints in plasterboard ?!! Who doesn’t chisel hinges in before hanging frames ! Not a professional part of that in sight
Noggin is to stop timber bowing not to pick up plasterboard
Yesthe nogging is used to brace the timbers but when we set the noggings we do it so it picks up the plasterboard.
Americans call it a firestop. A noggin is a measure or rum.
On our main island we call them nogs. On South Island they call them dwangs. Cowboys call them a waste of money.
Door fram youre eliminated
Plasterboard touching slab will wick up any damp typical cut and stick builder 😮load of crap
"in line kinky swimwear" ?
No ppe,dust sheets,cuts in the carpet,curtains covered in dust,not in my house thankyou,go to someone else house ✅👍
That isn't a framing hammer.
Enjoyed watching, but not a fan of the style of this video.
That is fine, we have to do different things
@@SkillBuilder of course.
do not attempt this without a structural engineer specifying what size lintel you need or you might end up in the s**t
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