I ended up just bending upward the part that was preventing from unscrewing the regulator instead of doing any grinding. Took a small screw driver, stuck it in the hole and bent it up just an enough to get unscrewed. Then I did the same to install the new one. Thanks for posting the video, it was a big help!
RetroMotion Sidewinder has is pretty good molded 5/16" fuel line. I have been using with success. I used half of it for my repair, and saving the other half. Its 75 PSI and rates for fuel.
Thanks for the video dude! Pretty much what my 3vze is doing at the moment. Also, that oscilloscope is trick. I typed in the model number on amazon and got one to help with my diagnostics. Thanks again man!
It's supposed to drop even lower when at idle, 33-37 psi. At the end of the video you can see it drop on mine after startup to within this range. Your regulator is almost certainly bad!
Great video - can you share the brand of the scope and the brand of the fuel gauge tester? Did you have to make custom connections for the fuel gauge? Thanks.
Great video, thanks .exactly what I'm going through with my 1991 4runner 3vz-e engine. I live in Iran and old cars have to pass emissions and safety tests. But my car failed so badly. The Lambda parameter was 0.84!! And HC emission was twice as normal. CO emission was about 3.6 times higher than normal. definitely running extremely rich. So I have to check everything you did on your videos. Super helpful, thanks again. On last question, can you put a link of the service manuals that you used for your truck including this video and the mass air flow one.that would save me a fortune.
@@ShanesGettingHandy Hey Sir, thank you again, I tried the trick of wasting the maninfold as I ran into the same problem when replacing the regulator, and it was just a hit, thanks!
How did you hook into the fuel line to test the pressure? I see the amazon link just wondering what the process is to get it hooked up or if you followed a guide somewhere. Thanks, great video
This is some high level stuff! Great video. (I'm not getting electricity to the fuel pump) The circuit open circuit works! Do you have a video on the circuit from ignition to the circuit? It only gets electrical current while cranking!
There is a fuel pump cutoff switch built into the Air Flow Meter. I have a video showing the disassembly of it. Check that circuit to see if it is functioning properly.
Thank you! Pump Only worked while cranking. It ended up being the (cor) The airflow part of the relay failed. (Truck died while running) (I did notice the pump doesn't prime with ignition on, don't know if this year toyota, 95 4runner does this?(think the computer is what turns on the pump momentarily?)
Great video and thanks so much for the detailed explanation. Did you replace the FPR with a OE Toyota part or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what was the brand and part number you installed?
Good work,So just remove the Banjo bolt and thread the pressure gauge into where the banjo bolt was?Did you use teflon tape around the threads of the gauge hose?
Would you mind describing the components used to hook up the tester to the fuel rail? Not having a Schrader valve is proving to be a minor inconvience!
hey if you ever get stuck check Ray Nada and 22re performanc e they have great videos on diagnosis for these cars Ray has a 22re but theey get the same rough start and idle problems
@@ShanesGettingHandy I used your video to diagnose my fuel delivery problem I have taken it down to either faulty preasure regulator and/or the cold dtart sensor not grounding on start up
Wow! I am impressed. Been fighting my 3vze for a year. When I accelerate it hits a wall. If I hold the peddle still It seems to take a big gulp of air and takes off like a scared rabbit. Any ideas?
I haven't ever run into this yet, but the very first thing I'd check is the throttle position sensor. Could be a whole host of other possibilities too. The service manual is full of useful information, but you have to dig for it. ether3al.com/FSM/93fsm-mobile/
Hi Shane, Thanks for your very helpful video here. One question: I tested my pressure regulator on my 1995 4runner yesterday (10-16-22). At idle, regulator showed about 44 PSI. However, the pressure regulator dropped gradually to zero within 20 minutes after the engine was turned off. How long does the pressure of 44 psi have to hold within the line after the engine is turned off. Thanks again
Per the service manual: (r) Stop the engine. Check that the fuel pressure remains above 147 kPa (1.5 kgf/cm2, 21 psi) for 5 minutes after the engine is turned oft. If not within specification, check the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and/or injectors. htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhaker/programi/toyota/Engine/3VZ-E/87fuelpump.pdf
What end did you use to grind off intake. Seems to look like the easiest way to get the old one out and the new one in. How much grinding did you have to do ?
Hey Shane, any chance you could link me the fuel pressure gauge you used here or tell me the brand? I just bought a cheap one off Amazon and the fitting with the matching threads was too long compared to the fuel rail bolt! I ended up over tightening and stripping all my threads :( Now I need to replace the rail or try to rethread. Did you face this issue? Was your fitting longer than the fuel rail bolt? If not could you please link me to the gauge you use here?
Yes, with engine off, or running with the vacuum hose to the regulator disconnected, 38/44. With the engine idling and the vacuum hoses connected it drops to 33/37
Hey bud question for you. Maybe you can give me and idea So I bought a 91 Toyota pick up with a 3.0 in it and she has a little trouble starting up but in neutral or in park I can rev up the motor and it revs up fine but as soon as I put it in gear reverse or drive it wants to bog down and die but if I feather the pedal it will go slowly I’ve changed distributor distributor button fuel filter mass airflow sensor throttle body and did the EGR delete and Man it is still not running for me any ideas Man did you can help me with because I’ve had a bunch of people look at it and nobody can tell me any help would be appreciated Man thank you very much
Have you tried adjusting the idle air screw counterclockwise? I might make a quick video on this, it was harder to find information about it than I wished when I was looking, and it's not the adjustment you'd think it is at first. Also, you might try removing the air intake and cleaning inside the throttle body with a soft brush and carb cleaner.
That's super frustrating! Lucky for me there are no emissions requirements where I live. Does it idle smoothly, or is it misfiring? What RPM is the idle set at?
Buen día soy de Guatemala necesito ayuda sobre su conocimiento estoy revisando una runer 95 3vz y el problema que hace es que al ir en marca en primer cambio estándar a 1800 RPM hace un corte de aceleración y vuelve a pegar jaloneos ya trabaje la Iac el TPS y sigue igual ya al ir en tercera lo hace como a 2500 ahí corta y vuelve a jalonear
Yep, it spins, and the tube hits the manifold. I could have bent the tube I suppose, but I would have had to bend the new one as well. Option is yours.
I ended up just bending upward the part that was preventing from unscrewing the regulator instead of doing any grinding. Took a small screw driver, stuck it in the hole and bent it up just an enough to get unscrewed. Then I did the same to install the new one. Thanks for posting the video, it was a big help!
I almost did that exact same thing, but I was a little worried I might crack or break the new one. Happy to hear it worked out for you!
I've been suspicious of my TPS and cleaning everything that could cause rich running? Now I'm on the FPR great info thank you!!!
You're welcome!
Did you replace you tps?
RetroMotion Sidewinder has is pretty good molded 5/16" fuel line. I have been using with success. I used half of it for my repair, and saving the other half. Its 75 PSI and rates for fuel.
Thanks for the video dude! Pretty much what my 3vze is doing at the moment. Also, that oscilloscope is trick. I typed in the model number on amazon and got one to help with my diagnostics. Thanks again man!
You're welcome! An oscilloscope can be a lifesaver, even if it's a cheap one, it's worth having in your toolbox for sure!
@@ShanesGettingHandy how do you hookup that to measure the pressure ??
Thank you! Very informative, gonna rent a tester and see if this is my issue as well, got a 91 pickup with the 3vze
Any time!
Thanks for the video it's a big help! Mines running about 50psi at idle so I think I'm going to replace the regulator.
It's supposed to drop even lower when at idle, 33-37 psi. At the end of the video you can see it drop on mine after startup to within this range. Your regulator is almost certainly bad!
Mine reads 55psi it's brand new regulator HELP ME!
This video helped me so much. Thank you!
Fabulous! Thanks for watching!
Great video - can you share the brand of the scope and the brand of the fuel gauge tester? Did you have to make custom connections for the fuel gauge? Thanks.
I just added links to the description.
Thank you!@@ShanesGettingHandy
Great video, thanks .exactly what I'm going through with my 1991 4runner 3vz-e engine. I live in Iran and old cars have to pass emissions and safety tests. But my car failed so badly. The Lambda parameter was 0.84!! And HC emission was twice as normal. CO emission was about 3.6 times higher than normal. definitely running extremely rich. So I have to check everything you did on your videos. Super helpful, thanks again.
On last question, can you put a link of the service manuals that you used for your truck including this video and the mass air flow one.that would save me a fortune.
ether3al.com/FSM/93fsm-mobile/
Way to go sir, thanks for the video and explanation.
Any time!
@@ShanesGettingHandy Hey Sir, thank you again, I tried the trick of wasting the maninfold as I ran into the same problem when replacing the regulator, and it was just a hit, thanks!
How did you hook into the fuel line to test the pressure? I see the amazon link just wondering what the process is to get it hooked up or if you followed a guide somewhere. Thanks, great video
I have a 95 four runner 3.0 it's been work but that's OK I love my ride.
I think when they're this age, work is part of the deal.
Your name went from “chiggerpepi” to “mittens and mongo” to “shanes getting handy”
It sure did! What should I change it to next?
@@ShanesGettingHandy Shane Beeder Music and Car Repair
Did you use a Toyota Pressure regulator or aftermarket? If aftermarket, which one did you use and is it still holding up?
I went with OEM Toyota on this one.
This is some high level stuff! Great video.
(I'm not getting electricity to the fuel pump)
The circuit open circuit works!
Do you have a video on the circuit from ignition to the circuit?
It only gets electrical current while cranking!
There is a fuel pump cutoff switch built into the Air Flow Meter. I have a video showing the disassembly of it. Check that circuit to see if it is functioning properly.
Thank you!
Pump Only worked while cranking.
It ended up being the (cor)
The airflow part of the relay failed.
(Truck died while running)
(I did notice the pump doesn't prime with ignition on, don't know if this year toyota, 95 4runner does this?(think the computer is what turns on the pump momentarily?)
What setting did you use on the oscilloscope?
Hey man where were you able to find those papers on things behind the vehicle running rich.
Is it a service manual if so please send the link
Thanks.
You can try this link, so long as it still works: www.ether3al.com/93fsm-mobile/
Thanks for the video. When you tested the fuel pressure, did you have the keys in the ignition in the 1 (accessory) position or 2 (on)?
If I remember correctly, the keys don’t need to be in at all, the jumper activates the fuel pump manually.
Great video and thanks so much for the detailed explanation. Did you replace the FPR with a OE Toyota part or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what was the brand and part number you installed?
I ordered it from a Toyota dealership, part number 23280-65010
Good work,So just remove the Banjo bolt and thread the pressure gauge into where the banjo bolt was?Did you use teflon tape around the threads of the gauge hose?
Exactly. No teflon tape was needed.
Would you mind describing the components used to hook up the tester to the fuel rail? Not having a Schrader valve is proving to be a minor inconvience!
I bought an Actron CP7838 fuel pressure tester online and it had all the fittings required in the kit.
hey if you ever get stuck check Ray Nada and 22re performanc e they have great videos on diagnosis for these cars Ray has a 22re but theey get the same rough start and idle problems
Good to know, thanks!
@@ShanesGettingHandy I used your video to diagnose my fuel delivery problem I have taken it down to either faulty preasure regulator and/or the cold dtart sensor not grounding on start up
@@ShanesGettingHandy thank you
Wow! I am impressed. Been fighting my 3vze for a year. When I accelerate it hits a wall. If I hold the peddle still
It seems to take a big gulp of air and takes off like a scared rabbit. Any ideas?
I haven't ever run into this yet, but the very first thing I'd check is the throttle position sensor. Could be a whole host of other possibilities too. The service manual is full of useful information, but you have to dig for it. ether3al.com/FSM/93fsm-mobile/
Hi Shane, Thanks for your very helpful video here. One question: I tested my pressure regulator on my 1995 4runner yesterday (10-16-22). At idle, regulator showed about 44 PSI. However, the pressure regulator dropped gradually to zero within 20 minutes after the engine was turned off. How long does the pressure of 44 psi have to hold within the line after the engine is turned off. Thanks again
Per the service manual:
(r) Stop the engine. Check that the fuel pressure remains
above 147 kPa (1.5 kgf/cm2, 21 psi) for 5 minutes
after the engine is turned oft.
If not within specification, check the fuel pump, fuel
pressure regulator and/or injectors.
htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhaker/programi/toyota/Engine/3VZ-E/87fuelpump.pdf
Also if you do the tps please let us know
Will do.
What end did you use to grind off intake. Seems to look like the easiest way to get the old one out and the new one in. How much grinding did you have to do ?
It was one of those small drum sanding ends, and it didn’t take much at all, just grind a little and test spin it to see if it will clear.
Hey Shane, any chance you could link me the fuel pressure gauge you used here or tell me the brand? I just bought a cheap one off Amazon and the fitting with the matching threads was too long compared to the fuel rail bolt! I ended up over tightening and stripping all my threads :( Now I need to replace the rail or try to rethread.
Did you face this issue? Was your fitting longer than the fuel rail bolt? If not could you please link me to the gauge you use here?
I don't specifically remember having any issues when I installed the fitting. This is what I have.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XQUKC
Where did you hook up your pressure gauge on the fuel rail!!!?? Please advise!
3:35
which pins are the +b and ht ones?
Usually it's the two black wires coming from the sensor. Check between them with an ohmmeter as I did. Polarity does not matter.
Thanks for the video do you know is 22re same pressure 38/44
htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhaker/programi/toyota/Engine/22RE/28fuelpump.pdf
Yes, with engine off, or running with the vacuum hose to the regulator disconnected, 38/44. With the engine idling and the vacuum hoses connected it drops to 33/37
What bonjo bolt adapter you use I try looking for one with no luck
I used this kit:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XQUKC
The bolt with the red cap in the photos worked.
@@ShanesGettingHandy
Great thank you
What’s the toll on the left with the waveform on the screen?
It's an oscilloscope. You can find them online for relatively cheap for the simple ones. The one I have is very basic, I think it was less than $40.
I changed the injectors and mind is running lean got any suggestions
Was it running lean before you changed the injectors, or is this a new issue?
Before as well
I still have it
did you just google to find that PDF?
Yes. I had it linked on here for a bit, but the site went down. You can find it if you look.
Hey bud question for you. Maybe you can give me and idea So I bought a 91 Toyota pick up with a 3.0 in it and she has a little trouble starting up but in neutral or in park I can rev up the motor and it revs up fine but as soon as I put it in gear reverse or drive it wants to bog down and die but if I feather the pedal it will go slowly I’ve changed distributor distributor button fuel filter mass airflow sensor throttle body and did the EGR delete and Man it is still not running for me any ideas Man did you can help me with because I’ve had a bunch of people look at it and nobody can tell me any help would be appreciated Man thank you very much
Have you tried adjusting the idle air screw counterclockwise? I might make a quick video on this, it was harder to find information about it than I wished when I was looking, and it's not the adjustment you'd think it is at first. Also, you might try removing the air intake and cleaning inside the throttle body with a soft brush and carb cleaner.
Any update on this? I am having the exact same problem
Hi mine is a 1989 is running rich at idle won’t pass the Cali emissions and 2500rpms pass súper clean
That's super frustrating! Lucky for me there are no emissions requirements where I live. Does it idle smoothly, or is it misfiring? What RPM is the idle set at?
My friend I have a dually 89 v6 won’t pass at idle gross polluter and 2500 same as you super clean I try everything
@@ShanesGettingHandy hi my it wa fuel pressure regulator now I pass the emissions super clean was last Thursday
@@pablogarcia526 Excellent! Happy to hear you got it fixed.
Buen día soy de Guatemala necesito ayuda sobre su conocimiento estoy revisando una runer 95 3vz y el problema que hace es que al ir en marca en primer cambio estándar a 1800 RPM hace un corte de aceleración y vuelve a pegar jaloneos ya trabaje la Iac el TPS y sigue igual ya al ir en tercera lo hace como a 2500 ahí corta y vuelve a jalonear
Mine won’t go past 3200 rpm in any gear timing is perfect fuel pump is new fuel filter new distributor new spark plugs new wires new and same thing
haha paperclip and a needle
🤣🤣🤣
Your slow that regulator spins you didn't need to do that lol you should of just tryed a wrench but no
Yep, it spins, and the tube hits the manifold. I could have bent the tube I suppose, but I would have had to bend the new one as well. Option is yours.