I just finished up servicing the brakes on my 2005 CR-V and thought I'd just check to see if their were any codes before pulling it out of the shop. Lo and behold P1077 & P1078... A quick TH-cam search and you show up with exactly what I needed. Thanks so much! This info goes beyond my Haynes Manual. I also love your direct, no nonesense approach.
Awesome to hear you're taking care of all the maintenance on your own vehicle. Glad the video helped out and thank you very much for commenting. Good luck with the repair
Man, thank you so much!!! My old CRV has thrown P1078 on me this morning (Intake manifold air control - High RPM malfunction) and we have 25 degrees second day. It makes total sense now. The car was holding 1000 RPM and not going to 750 like always does but after 15 min of driving it went down to 750. Will clean the valve later on, car has over 200K miles. Thank you again!!!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I used Sea Foam to clean my intake, the code went away. But my o2 sensor sure didn't like all the crap Sea Foam has delivered and now I've got P0420 code :)) Ah, one or another. Will clean the sensor one day when have more time. The car drives fine. Thanks again, with you showing what it looks inside it is easy to understand why cold weather can affect the IMRC rotation.
Awesome, thanks for the breakdown. Took it down and fixed the issue, the sensor on the intake had to be replaced. Both screws holding it in were stripped, I just cut it in half and used a phillip to get it out.
If you have replaced a starter by removing the intake manifold and get this code (P1077), visually inspect the vacuum line thats UNDERNEATH the solenoid. Very easy to have that line come off and you can't see it easily. Need small right angle pliers or stat to put it back on.
thank you! i hadnt even noticed that tube when i pulled the intake out the first time 😅 you saved me more time and money and frustration on my moms car
I have watched a couple more videos on this repair...and this question always comes up...(as I have to tackle/repair this myself) Use a dish detergent, such as Dawn and NOT any brake cleaners!😊
Liked and Subbed my friend. I just purchased an '05 CRV with 5spd. 271k miles. No codes or CEL, and passed an enhanced smog on the first try. Have been wondering about how this valve works. There was a similar system on our '95 Audi A6 Avant with 2.6L V-6. Thank you for all the details and how to check it, and the solenoid.
Excellent instructional video Man! I appreciate the time taken, as well as a quick run-down of how the system works when it is working-that's trouble-shooting 101, right? (can't fix it if you don't know what it is supposed to be doing). Great job.
acura rsx is the same. i just removed my intake to replace knock sensor tonight. and that little damn hose at bottom of valve that goes to the intake, i never noticed it lmao. so cars back together and getting p1077. thanks to you i went outside and i squeeze a few fingers down under it and i pulled the hose up. aint connected. man you ended my nightmare. should be able to just unbolt it and maybe disconnect a few plugs just to get enough room to get that thing in. i KNEW i didnt damage anything and im so done with fixing this thing. hopefully this is all that is wrong. thanks again
Im here right now ,after doing the same replaced knock sensor, and same code on my RSX. Im praying that hose is my issue! Took the intake off last year to replace a starter. I never knew anything about the knock sensor being there at the time. I would have replaced it then.
Guys, if you have to remove your intake one day - replace your starter at that time if it is older than 100k. It is a huge pita to do the same steps once again when it dies.
I agree with your statement. Although unfortunately a lot of aftermarket/reman starter Motors last only a fraction of the time that a factory one would.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I'm watching your video while I'm replacing the OEM starter that lasted 228K miles on my CRV 2006. It still works but is very weak. Not expecting $100 replacement to last another 100K, but the car will be 20 years old at that point :) Thank you for the video, great tip about inserting the valve back and spinning it back into place, scary moment
how do you clean it? Just use break cleaner? also if its the bladder thats bad can you just pop off that top part and put a new one in or do you need like a whole new unit
Hi, How to clean up the internal part? Just wipe it out with a cloth, or some fluid should be used? Also, you mentioned to lubricate the big O-ring before assembly IMRC - what kind of lubricant should be used? Thanks!
Thanks for your comment and great questions! I cleaned out the inside by letting it soak in my parts washer at work and then stuffed a towel down the cylindrical with a small pry bar and twisted it around to clean out the hole. And just some motor oil or light grease would be fine for lubricating the O-ring. I hope the video helped out and give it a thumbs up if it did. Thanks!
I just used the parts washer at my work. Which is a product called ozzyjuice. But you can use pretty much any parts washer and it's not going to harm it. I used a large bath towel to Get Down in the Hole
Honestly without looking back on my work I don't recall. But yeah whatever I said in the video. I'm sorry I couldn't be of more help. Really jammed up with work today
Hi! This video is super helpful so thanks for posting! I have one question: How do you get the connector off of the solenoid? I can't seem to pull it off.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thanks! I'm going to give it another try today. Also, I had these two codes come up in October of 2018 and had it "fixed," but the repair guy said that he replaced the "intake manifold runner position sensor" (his words written out on the receipt). Is this the same as the imrc solenoid? And if so, why would it be happening again so soon? The new place I'm taking it to said that the imrc solenoid needs replaced again.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow okay, thanks for that. I just got done testing some things out: First, when I put my vacuum gauge onto the diaphragm hose, the gauge stayed at zero. Does this mean the diaphragm hose is bad? Second, I attached the vacuum gauge to the hose leading to the bottom of the solenoid and it read between 15-20 in the green area and steadily stayed there. I assume this means that hose is okay? Third, I actually bought a Dorman imrc solenoid (because that's what the repair shop told me needed replaced), put it on and turned on the engine, but the engine light is still on. Does this mean that it's NOT the solenoid, or do I need to drive it awhile to see if it goes off? OR, do I have to get the codes reset (or cleared)?
I forgot! Also, I checked to see if there was the clicking noise you said to check for when I plugged the connector into the solenoid (I had the key on but engine off). There wasn't any sound. Does this indeed mean the solenoid is bad?
hi... I have a question... that Control Solenoid Valve Assembly which connects to the vacuum hoses does not have the cap for it. It came off. would not having this cap cause me to have a misfire on cylinder 1? I I have tried everything to fix the issue and this was the only item I saw that wasn't complete but was linked to cylinder 1. any help would be greatly appreciated.
If it's causing a vacuum leak, I would take care of fixing it. It might not cause a misfire but any vacuum leak is not good and you may end up throwing a lean code
Не очень понятен алгоритм работы этой системы,у друга CR-V 2003 2.4мт.Отломили штуцер идущий на вакуумный привод изменения геометрии.Приклеили,но похоже клей попал в соленоид и теперь он не переключается при прямой подаче питания от аккумулятора.При запуске загорается ошибка 1078.Я изучил кинематику данной схемы,но не совсем её понял,в самом коллекторе стоит дополнительная ёмкость для вакуума,к ней подключен шланг,затем к этому шлангу подключен тройник с обратным клапаном,перед обратным клапаном отвод для соленоида вверх,и после клапана в тройнике вакуумный шланг идёт в рессивер коллектора.Суть какая,я не могу понять,при включении зажигания,соленоид как я понимаю включается с эбу,открывается,и сообщает диафрагму привода с атмосферой,заслонки изменения геометрии переключаются в положение короткого коллектора,когда мы запускаем двигатель,соленоид обесточивается и переключается на вакуум от коллектора,вакуум перемещает диафрагму,преодолевая усилие пружины и переключает заслонки изменения геометрии в режим длинный коллектор.Так как соленоид неисправен,он при включении зажигания не сообщается с атмосферой,и не переводится в режим короткого коллектора,а система подключена к дополнительной вакуумной ёмкости в коллекторе и соответственно диафрагма постоянно находится под вакуумом(снимал шланг с диафрагмы на неработающем моторе и там вакуум) и коллектор постоянно находится в режиме длинный коллектор.Как я понял,при включении зажигания,на клапан приходит 12в и масса,а при запуске мотора массу отключает эбу.Это продолжается пока обороты ниже 4300,далее снова подключается масса от эбу и соленоид переключается с вакуума на атмосферу.Интересно,зачем тогда в коллекторе компенсационная вакуумная ёмкость.
How does changing the length of the runners correspond to more or less power? Is the rotation controlled by the ECU or is it controlled purely by vacuum?
There's a lot involved with how they affect the performance of an engine. But generally the Runners are short for low-end torque and long for high RPM Power. I'm not too familiar with how the system is controlled on this Honda
Nice information. Thank You. I didn't have to remove any of that front framing stuff to get mine off. Only had to remove the hood latch, Battery and coolant hose engine side and it slides to the right and up and comes right out.
Great information. I have one question, which is the p1078 code for? I have an 04 cr-v and autozone gave me the p1078 code and they have no idea which part I need smh. Thank you
Glad you found it helpful. Honestly I'm not sure offhand without doing some research. Hard to diagnose cars over text. I'm sorry I couldn't be a more help
Our 2003 crv has issues holding idle after warm up. Could this be the cause for it? During cold start everything is working good, but once the idle lowers, it gets worse. No cel at all. Spark plugs&coil packs are good and injectors seem operational as well. Im gonna run a vacuum test in the future but id like to get some more info before i dive into it. Thanks in advance.
what is the approximate cost for something like this? With labor hours and any possible replacements (I know here you were able to clean it). I'm looking into this problem with my car and would love to do it myself but do not have the space or tools.
Can a gunked IMRC assembly cause hesitation when VTEC is about to kick it? Mine seems to hesitate slightly when its about to engage. I've already replaced the vtec solenoid. I assume the IMRC is like variable intake like the old T-VIS system toyota used.
cool. i appreciate it. sucks that i just put everything back together after replacing a starter. it was fairly easy though so i may go back out there and remove it and clean it to see what happens.
1963c10 no problem man. And yeah definitely easy to take it back apart especially since you've already done it once. Certainly a good call to clean it out one way or another
another quick question....i got the p1077 and p1519 code after replacing the starter and did not have the issue before. i did replace the o-rings for then intake. all vacuum lines seem to be connected properly. was i supposed to put oil or gasket sealer on the o-rings for the intake? could there be a leak there causing those codes?
Hi have questions mi crv 2003 have check engine light on .. supost say the part P1077 imt valve is stuck high rpm position Also code p0661 irmc circuit voltage low..u help me and tell me what is the solution to myself fix please.. thanks
You need to do a little bit of diag on it. I would start with pulling the IMRC, cleaning it and checking its operation if you're not familiar diagnosing things.
If you have to do this might as well change your pcv valve too if you have high milage cheap and easy to change out this will get gunked up and cause oil to burn when high rpm and starting of the vehicle
Would this cause it not to start?I got this code so I parked it.Started it a few times thru out the week.Then one day went to start it to take to shop.It cranks but won’t start…any suggestions would be great thanks!Great videos
i think he said don't disconnect the cooling lines unless you want to deal with coolant spilling everywhere and having to replace the lost fluid. You'd probably have to burp the cooling system too, so don't touch the coolant lines sir
I have a manual 02 base rsx with the P1077 and in first and second gear it has some bad intermittent bucking. Could that be cause by this not operating properly.
Fass Strokaa I used the parts cleaner at my work. It's a water-based solvent and a brush. But you can basically detail it with some paper towels and such. Just don't use anything too incredibly harsh on it that would affect the plastic. Or heck, throw it in your dishwasher. Lol I'm just joking don't do that
Thank you. Since you didn't mention or showed the cleaning of the actual part(IMRC) I thought maybe there's a special solution to clean it. Thanks again.
Fass Strokaa no problem. Yes sometimes I leave some things out. I don't get a lot of time to videotape since I'm at work. So I try to keep things short. I hope the video helped out and thanks for commenting.
My 2003 crv has a low idle. The rvmp is very low my AC can not start unless I rav the engine . the code p1077 came up . my question is does that affect low idling of the engine
Good question. I haven't done one of these in a while so I don't recall 100%. But I don't remember having to apply vacuum. Let me know what you find out when you do yours and I'll update the description. I appreciate it.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Is that valve plastic or metal? I've heard brakeclean is bad for plastic. Also, what exactly is the sludge that builds up in there? Is it oil? Random crap from the air that got through the filter? Or what?
I tried unplugging and plugging in the connector for the solenoid but didn't hear any clicking. Everything holds vacuum but I wonder, is the vacuum supposed to go up or down depending on throttle position? I had my son blip the throttle while watching the vacuum gauge and it stayed steady while idling and went up a little with the blip but didn't come back down after. I only had code P1078 come up and the car had a little trouble starting a few days before.
Hi your video helped me a lot. But im still getting the code. I didnt verify the wiring but i took it apart, cleaned it and replaced the sensor and solenoid. Do you think it is dangerous to drive the car with this system malfunctioning?
Hey, glad to hear the video help you out! No you won't do any damage at all by driving it with the code or it not functioning. You might just have reduced fuel mileage or power
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Hey so I never got this fixed and I am finally able to give it another shot. Long story short I put a multimeter on the connection to the solenoid and didnt see any voltage between the terminals with the key on engine off (accessories powered). Do you know if this would still have voltage on a 2002 model year vehicle? Thanks for your reply
Mecanic change valve pcv and i bring the part(aftermarket Motorcraft) but before job no engine light was on in my wife crv 2004. after mechanic performed the job engine light is on now code p1078. He guet out the intake manifold cover like you but now he sees did everything properly and if i want check again have to charge me for review and cleaning. according your exelent instructions a have to get some time to do my self. thanks to be generous helping as.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Of course! I do have one question. I'm assuming you have to put something to lubricate the mechanism after you put it back into the runners. Do you just use oil?
No problem. Yeah WD-40 or any equivalent solvents should work fine. I used a old shirt wrapped around a long drill bit to clean one out once and that worked pretty good. I'm not sure I understand your second question about the vacuum
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow There's another video i was watching, and you mentioned it lightly that when putting back the assembly to not force it but instead use vacuum on the hose to ease it back into place. Could I access that hose line without taking all the hoses and Intake Manifold again? My situation is that I replaced the Starter Motor. When I was putting the intake manifold in, I was trying to see if could take the assembly apart in order to more easily install it back into the engine, whcih led to me opening up the assembly. I put that back together and was able to put the entire Intake Manifold back in. But I didn't know about vacuuming the air out when assembling it.
@@greennblue10 as long as you were able to assemble it back in there fine then it shouldn't be a problem. If you apply vacuum to it, it should rotate back and forth. If there's an issue, you'll find out because it will set the engine light
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Yeah, i have the check engine light on. Are there any physical symptoms you see right away? I don't see any discharge on my engine, nor do I see my temperature gauges red-lining.
I changed the intake manifold complete with all accessories checked the the solenoid, I have vacuum on the bottom hose, I have power key on engine off & ground when engine off. But I still get the p1078 code. Any ideas?
Hi there Please I have the same car with low idling. when I turned on the A/C or heater the idle becomes rough by dropping down below 600. Please any help to fix this
I offered tons of valuable information pertaining to this repair and problem. If you can't figure it out after watching this whole video then I'm not sure what to tell you. This video should serve to give you a good understanding of how the system works and the most common problems
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You made it look easy going into detail. Other videos are hard to understand because the guy in the video has done it for 20yrs and doesnt know how to explain thier own videos I'm having a problem with my 03 CRV. Had a "mechanic friend" look at it and I think he did something wrong. Now my wife's CRV just idles up and down but not going past 3rpm. Any thoughts you could help with?
Thanks man I appreciate the words. I tried to make things simple to understand, but yes it can be tough especially when you do this kind of work for a living. Honestly I wouldn't really be able to give you much Insight on your CRV without seeing it. I work on all makes and models, so I'm not too incredibly familiar with any one single model and all of its common problems
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Oh I completely understand. This is what I get when I have a "mechanic friend".I'm going to look into this more. It's a unknown answer.👍🏼
@@bludragontruck9743 Maybe he didn't seat the gasket correctly(intake manifold gasket) and there is an enormous vacuum leak because of it. Sounds like a bad vacuum leak to me at least. Maybe a frail vacuum line fell apart when he disconnected it. I'm guessing you fixed the problem already tho.
@@Titans2138 Hey, thanks for checking on me. Nah, havent had to mess with it. I really put a lot of money into it. So I stopped, still having idle problems. No you're right , it has to be air leak somewhere. But my a/c in my truck was out and a/c at home too. And because of our new truck being in the garage so long because of COVID-19 that rats got in and chewed up some wires. I'm just thinking about taking it to the dealer ship. What do you think ?
+BluDragon Truck On 2000 Accord the intake is up against the firewall so you there's a blind spot and when I replaced the intake manifold the gasket got caught on something and got pinched so there was a big air leak and the car had a nasty idle that surged up and down between like 800 rpm and 3000 rpm. If it's new and under warranty you should take it to the dealership but personally I try to fix everything myself because fixing things makes me happy. There's no special people, mechanics look in the service manual just like everyone else could if they wanted to, although of course, experience is valuable on complicated matters and only a full time mechanic is going to spend $3000-$8000 on a fancy scan tool. Mechanics look up youtube videos too just like everyone else.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I just replaced my IMAC solenoid by the way I have a pending code p1077 so I be driving couple days and see if it goes away if it does it was my solenoid.
i took this part out and cleaned it and put everything back in but when i started it up the rpm’s were fluctuating and the engine was almost kicking it seemed like and i dont know what happened
Question for you: I recently replaced my starter (2002 CR-V) and in the process of doing that I broke the little rounded plastic cap off the top of the Bypass Control Solenoid Valve (or in your video your computer looks like it says IMT (IMRC) SOL V.), you call it a vacuum switching valve. It is the little black valve with a small hose going attached to the canister and then another small hose that attaches to the bottom of valve and then splits and attaches to intake manifold in two places. To me the little plastic cap doesn't appear to be necessary, it just looks like a little mushroom, it curves over and pulls in air from underneath instep of straight down the top I assume to keep out contaminants. Doesn't look like there were any moving parts in it. I glued it back and had no issues. Then the POS aftermarket Ultima starter from Oriellys crapped out in 2 months. I took it back for a refund and paid for a Honda OEM starter. Anyhow I have broken it again on reinstall of the OEM starter and this time lost the little black cap so I can't glue it back. Am I correct about the function of the little cap? Just like an umbrella on top of the valve right? Replacement is $130 so not planning on replacing it at the moment assuming I am right about it. Great video. May be really helpful for me in the future. Wish I had thought to clean the inside of the rotary valve after having removing the intake manifold twice in just a few months! But now I know!
I just tried the test you talked about. I turned on the key to acc position but did not start car. I unplugged the electrical connector back and forth but heard no clicking. So maybe the valve is broken/stuck anyhow. I'm not getting any check engine light. I plan to hook it to a scanner tomorrow and see if I have a code. If the valve is malfunctioning what problems would it cause? Loss of power or response? And if that's all and were to decide not to replace do you think it would damage anything?
Josh Armstrong thanks for your comment. Yes I think you'll be just fine without that little plastic piece on there. Worst case is it could cause premature failure of the part in the future. But I tend to doubt it would be any issue at all. And yeah that probably would have had a decent idea to clean out the rotary valve with the intake off . but of course it's not very hard to remove the intake so no big deal there.
definitely a good call going with an oem starter is well! Those aftermarket ones are really a gamble. Of course they offer a lifetime warranty on a lot of them. but what good is that if it craps out every few months.
By now you already fixed your starter problem. I bought a rebuilt kit from eBay for $19 last year and fixed my problem. The brushes were all worn down to the wires.
My automatic 04 Honda CR-V recently started revving by itself when in neutral/park. It sometimes does it when I come up to a red light while in drive but not as often (I'm always ready to throw it into neutral if my brakes can't keep me still). I don't think it's the throttle body sticking because It intermittently revs to somewhere below 4k RPMs, drops back to a normal rpm, then repeats. I've also noticed that I don't need to touch the gas pedal to maintain a 30mph speed on a slightly uphill slope. I took it to advanced auto parts for a scan and had P1078 and a bad O2 sensor. All that I've seen is that these two things would cause problem start ups and bad fuel efficiency, not random engine revving that makes me look like I'm challenging people to a street race lol. Though I do feel like my O2 sensor sending my engine weird mixture signals, combined with a stuck intake manifold, would cause my engine to rev... I would just like to hear if you think my problems will go away if I replace this. Lol
Honestly, couldn't tell you for sure without seeing the car. But I would definitely take care of the engine code and O2 sensor. Good place to start. Might have a vacuum leak as well
So I'm trying to help a friend of mine, they are getting P0661 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit Low Bank 1a. I wasn't real sure on this one and told them to take it in to get a diagnostic done on it and they are stating they need an entire new intake?! I've been wrenching for years and years, something seems off about what the code is trying to lead us to and what the shop is saying they need. It almost sounds like the control valve might be bad? I haven't looked over the car myself just yet.
Replacing the IMRC angle position sensor (37890-PND-A01) fixed that on mine. Replaced the original…had to drill out the screw heads to get it off, then one of the screw stubs was stuck, but finally got it out with PB Blaster and vise grips. Whole new intake manifold seems crazy, maybe he meant the IMRC rotary valve. I almost replaced that out of frustration, but it turned out to be working fine after 250K miles. Make sure it’s seated as shown starting at 6:10. That’s CRITICAL. Spin it back just like he showed.
Video showed very well what needed to be done. Of interest to me is relative cost and what all other items needed to be replaced just to get in to clean and/or replace the IMRC solenoid valve. I have the valve itself around $90.00. How many gaskets will also need replaced or you would recommend having on hand? Any other special connectors? I generally prefer to have everything I may need on hand and return any items not used. Your thoughts?
Unfortunately it's been quite some time since I shot this video. I work on several cars today and all makes and models. Wouldn't really be able to give you any other specifics that aren't in the video. Sorry I couldn't be of more help
@@bludragontruck9743 my 03 does that as well it can be a number of things.first i would buy a can of throttle body and air intake cleaner.remove your flex large hose off your air cleaner box.bend it out straight.look in with a flashlight amd you should see the round metal part on throttle body.with engine OFF spray a few blasts into it and be careful not to get on other sensors in the rubber flex hose.let sit 5 minutes,then start.may seem hard to start initially but will.press gas to maybe 3000 rpm a couple of times.it seemed to help my 03 crv.
@@chuckmaleman5216 Hey, that's how it all started, right there! The flex hose to the intake box.OMG🤯 Mine had a freakin huge crack on it. I replaced it and wham! Lit the whole cluster up! Now I'm stuck with the same problem 3 months later. I tried what you suggested. The scanner ran so many codes my wife is scared to drive it. I'm not a mechanic by any means. You and I stuck on same boat at one time. But I'm still here. My buddy the "mechanic" fucked me by taking everything apart. This guy in the video made it look simple and sweet but im kind of intimidated. 👍🏼
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow great,thats a good idea.i know mine needs to be cleaned.ive heard that sound for a long time.im a substitute rural mail carrier and these country roads put some awful wear and tear on a vehicle.i never knew until recently your rear end has a toe in and out adjustment. I have a 03 crv.their good cars.i can tell you,,, let me drive it on these country mail routes for a month or so. That will tell the tale.tbanks for the great vid s .
Hi, i watched your video and I’m thinking to do it soon... the reason I’m writing you its because I have a cr-v 2006 with 115000km and a few weeks ago it started to make a strange noise from the engine.... when I accelerate ( 3500 RPM ) you can hear like a whistle... do you think it coud be the imrc? Please i would appreciate your help!!! Thanks!
excellent video coming from a DIY home mechanic. I've got code P0661 - intake manifold tuning control valve control circuit. Do you know if it would be the vacuum valve or the position sensor? It is also "pending" but will not clear.
Larry Hunt thanks for your comment. Sorry no I don't know offhand. I would have to do some research or look at something like that to make a call. I work on all makes and models. So it's hard to keep track of each repair. That's why I like to make videos so sometimes I even end up looking back on them. Glad to hear the video helped out some though thanks again!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thanks for the quick reply! After a bit more looking into the problem, I seem to have jostled the electrical connection to the starter loose while removing the IMRC unit! Just took a bit of re-sitting :)
Great job. This will help me very much because I am having the same problem with my 02 CR-V. But I have two questions: First, when I am facing the runner, I can only turn it manually clockwise. I can not turn it all the way around, and as soon as I release it, it turn back to the original position. Is that the way it supposes to be? Second, when I apply vacuum to it, It also does not keep turning. It stop at a certain point. and go back to the initial position only when I unplug the vacuum pump. Again, is that normal?
![[ BEST ] IMRC P1077 P1078 FIX 2002 Honda CR-V / RSX (🙏 donate if i helpped you link in description)](/img/n.gif)
I just finished up servicing the brakes on my 2005 CR-V and thought I'd just check to see if their were any codes before pulling it out of the shop. Lo and behold P1077 & P1078... A quick TH-cam search and you show up with exactly what I needed. Thanks so much! This info goes beyond my Haynes Manual. I also love your direct, no nonesense approach.
Awesome to hear you're taking care of all the maintenance on your own vehicle. Glad the video helped out and thank you very much for commenting. Good luck with the repair
No extra useless nonsense. Just good concise information. Very professional.
Man, thank you so much!!! My old CRV has thrown P1078 on me this morning (Intake manifold air control - High RPM malfunction) and we have 25 degrees second day. It makes total sense now. The car was holding 1000 RPM and not going to 750 like always does but after 15 min of driving it went down to 750. Will clean the valve later on, car has over 200K miles. Thank you again!!!
No problem! Glad to hear the video helped you out and thank you for the comment
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I used Sea Foam to clean my intake, the code went away. But my o2 sensor sure didn't like all the crap Sea Foam has delivered and now I've got P0420 code :)) Ah, one or another. Will clean the sensor one day when have more time. The car drives fine. Thanks again, with you showing what it looks inside it is easy to understand why cold weather can affect the IMRC rotation.
Awesome, thanks for the breakdown. Took it down and fixed the issue, the sensor on the intake had to be replaced. Both screws holding it in were stripped, I just cut it in half and used a phillip to get it out.
Those screws are m5 by the way.
Wait the tps sensor on the side of the intake manifold fixed it
If you have replaced a starter by removing the intake manifold and get this code (P1077), visually inspect the vacuum line thats UNDERNEATH the solenoid. Very easy to have that line come off and you can't see it easily. Need small right angle pliers or stat to put it back on.
Dealing with this right now. An absolute pain trying to hold a light to see where to place hose and also getting ahold of the hose. Always something.
Just checked and sure as shit it wes off thanks for the advice
hoping this is the piece of info I was missing
Oh shoot I hope that’s what’s wrong with mine I just got the code after replacing my starter and removing the intake manifold
thank you! i hadnt even noticed that tube when i pulled the intake out the first time 😅 you saved me more time and money and frustration on my moms car
So what did you use to clean out the intake and the rotor. Great video thanks a ton
I have watched a couple more videos on this repair...and this question always comes up...(as I have to tackle/repair this myself) Use a dish detergent, such as Dawn and NOT any brake cleaners!😊
I stand corrected...no-nonsense stated one CAN use brake cleaner to clean the intake manifold assembly runner!
I cleaned my IMRC, changed out the sensor and just ordered the solenoid. If this doesn't work now, you gave me an amazing list to go off. Ty
Good commentary. I watched another video where they stated the vacuum had to be applied in-order to get the runner seated correctly in the housing.
Wow, a true professional and fast easy to follow step by step walk through . Thank you. You are a wonderful man!
Glad the video was helpful. Thank you, I appreciate your kind words
What did you use to clean out the valve?
I would like to know the same thing.
Liked and Subbed my friend. I just purchased an '05 CRV with 5spd. 271k miles. No codes or CEL, and passed an enhanced smog on the first try. Have been wondering about how this valve works. There was a similar system on our '95 Audi A6 Avant with 2.6L V-6. Thank you for all the details and how to check it, and the solenoid.
Excellent instructional video Man! I appreciate the time taken, as well as a quick run-down of how the system works when it is working-that's trouble-shooting 101, right? (can't fix it if you don't know what it is supposed to be doing). Great job.
Thanks Harry, I'm glad the video was helpful to you and I appreciate the feedback
Question:What lubricant do you use on the o-rings?
Motor oil
Hey you're REALLY effective at explaining things - great work
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*SCAN TOOL/CODE READER: amzn.to/2PQIrEF
acura rsx is the same. i just removed my intake to replace knock sensor tonight. and that little damn hose at bottom of valve that goes to the intake, i never noticed it lmao. so cars back together and getting p1077. thanks to you i went outside and i squeeze a few fingers down under it and i pulled the hose up. aint connected. man you ended my nightmare. should be able to just unbolt it and maybe disconnect a few plugs just to get enough room to get that thing in. i KNEW i didnt damage anything and im so done with fixing this thing. hopefully this is all that is wrong. thanks again
Im here right now ,after doing the same replaced knock sensor, and same code on my RSX. Im praying that hose is my issue! Took the intake off last year to replace a starter. I never knew anything about the knock sensor being there at the time. I would have replaced it then.
Has any gotten this code when it comes and goes?
Guys, if you have to remove your intake one day - replace your starter at that time if it is older than 100k. It is a huge pita to do the same steps once again when it dies.
I agree with your statement. Although unfortunately a lot of aftermarket/reman starter Motors last only a fraction of the time that a factory one would.
How to turn an attic into living space
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I'm watching your video while I'm replacing the OEM starter that lasted 228K miles on my CRV 2006. It still works but is very weak. Not expecting $100 replacement to last another 100K, but the car will be 20 years old at that point :) Thank you for the video, great tip about inserting the valve back and spinning it back into place, scary moment
Amen although if was vice Versa for me
how do you clean it? Just use break cleaner?
also if its the bladder thats bad can you just pop off that top part and put a new one in or do you need like a whole new unit
NO BRAKE cleaner just Dawn or dish detergent...
Thanks - looks extensive and expenve if done by A Mechanic .Thanks to your video looks like the wire clips are the hardest
I really like your video you don't waste time it is masterclass for everybody else cuz you get to the point and don't waste and capitals my time
Thanks man I appreciate the feedback!
Hi,
How to clean up the internal part? Just wipe it out with a cloth, or some fluid should be used?
Also, you mentioned to lubricate the big O-ring before assembly IMRC - what kind of lubricant should be used?
Thanks!
Thanks for your comment and great questions! I cleaned out the inside by letting it soak in my parts washer at work and then stuffed a towel down the cylindrical with a small pry bar and twisted it around to clean out the hole. And just some motor oil or light grease would be fine for lubricating the O-ring. I hope the video helped out and give it a thumbs up if it did. Thanks!
NoNonsenseKnowHow my acura rsx does it when its hot out i get p1077
I have 2012 Honda CR-V loosing power at 25 miles per hour only I don't know what happened if any body knows please let me know Thanks!
Martin Bullla did you fix the problem? What was it?
what type of cleaner did you use to clean the parts with also how do you get down in the tube to sand any rough spots
I just used the parts washer at my work. Which is a product called ozzyjuice. But you can use pretty much any parts washer and it's not going to harm it. I used a large bath towel to Get Down in the Hole
Ok. Thanks.......your such a guru mechanic.my hats off to you bro.🙌
Awesome! Thx for the info,, and how and what you use to clean it up??
Np. Just brake clean and a bath towel
So I should have power and ground on the wiring to the solenoid key on engine off ? Because I just have power on the black and yellow
Honestly without looking back on my work I don't recall. But yeah whatever I said in the video. I'm sorry I couldn't be of more help. Really jammed up with work today
Hi! This video is super helpful so thanks for posting! I have one question: How do you get the connector off of the solenoid? I can't seem to pull it off.
No problem, glad to help out. There is just a little tab you have to press on the connector. I assume you talking about the wire harness connector?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thanks! I'm going to give it another try today. Also, I had these two codes come up in October of 2018 and had it "fixed," but the repair guy said that he replaced the "intake manifold runner position sensor" (his words written out on the receipt). Is this the same as the imrc solenoid? And if so, why would it be happening again so soon? The new place I'm taking it to said that the imrc solenoid needs replaced again.
@@brigittemackey4093 no problem. And no, this solenoid is a different piece. Separate from the sensor
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow okay, thanks for that. I just got done testing some things out: First, when I put my vacuum gauge onto the diaphragm hose, the gauge stayed at zero. Does this mean the diaphragm hose is bad? Second, I attached the vacuum gauge to the hose leading to the bottom of the solenoid and it read between 15-20 in the green area and steadily stayed there. I assume this means that hose is okay? Third, I actually bought a Dorman imrc solenoid (because that's what the repair shop told me needed replaced), put it on and turned on the engine, but the engine light is still on. Does this mean that it's NOT the solenoid, or do I need to drive it awhile to see if it goes off? OR, do I have to get the codes reset (or cleared)?
I forgot! Also, I checked to see if there was the clicking noise you said to check for when I plugged the connector into the solenoid (I had the key on but engine off). There wasn't any sound. Does this indeed mean the solenoid is bad?
Would this cause a p0505 code? I can’t fix mine, replaced iacv, pcv valve, cleaned throttle body, Checked for leaks. 03 Honda CR-V.
hi... I have a question... that Control Solenoid Valve Assembly which connects to the vacuum hoses does not have the cap for it. It came off. would not having this cap cause me to have a misfire on cylinder 1? I I have tried everything to fix the issue and this was the only item I saw that wasn't complete but was linked to cylinder 1. any help would be greatly appreciated.
If it's causing a vacuum leak, I would take care of fixing it. It might not cause a misfire but any vacuum leak is not good and you may end up throwing a lean code
Не очень понятен алгоритм работы этой системы,у друга CR-V 2003 2.4мт.Отломили штуцер идущий на вакуумный привод изменения геометрии.Приклеили,но похоже клей попал в соленоид и теперь он не переключается при прямой подаче питания от аккумулятора.При запуске загорается ошибка 1078.Я изучил кинематику данной схемы,но не совсем её понял,в самом коллекторе стоит дополнительная ёмкость для вакуума,к ней подключен шланг,затем к этому шлангу подключен тройник с обратным клапаном,перед обратным клапаном отвод для соленоида вверх,и после клапана в тройнике вакуумный шланг идёт в рессивер коллектора.Суть какая,я не могу понять,при включении зажигания,соленоид как я понимаю включается с эбу,открывается,и сообщает диафрагму привода с атмосферой,заслонки изменения геометрии переключаются в положение короткого коллектора,когда мы запускаем двигатель,соленоид обесточивается и переключается на вакуум от коллектора,вакуум перемещает диафрагму,преодолевая усилие пружины и переключает заслонки изменения геометрии в режим длинный коллектор.Так как соленоид неисправен,он при включении зажигания не сообщается с атмосферой,и не переводится в режим короткого коллектора,а система подключена к дополнительной вакуумной ёмкости в коллекторе и соответственно диафрагма постоянно находится под вакуумом(снимал шланг с диафрагмы на неработающем моторе и там вакуум) и коллектор постоянно находится в режиме длинный коллектор.Как я понял,при включении зажигания,на клапан приходит 12в и масса,а при запуске мотора массу отключает эбу.Это продолжается пока обороты ниже 4300,далее снова подключается масса от эбу и соленоид переключается с вакуума на атмосферу.Интересно,зачем тогда в коллекторе компенсационная вакуумная ёмкость.
What a contraption. What does this do to the engine when this code sets?
How does changing the length of the runners correspond to more or less power? Is the rotation controlled by the ECU or is it controlled purely by vacuum?
There's a lot involved with how they affect the performance of an engine. But generally the Runners are short for low-end torque and long for high RPM Power. I'm not too familiar with how the system is controlled on this Honda
What AUTEL scanner are you using or which one do you recommend. Thx
Nice information. Thank You. I didn't have to remove any of that front framing stuff to get mine off. Only had to remove the hood latch, Battery and coolant hose engine side and it slides to the right and up and comes right out.
Great information. I have one question, which is the p1078 code for? I have an 04 cr-v and autozone gave me the p1078 code and they have no idea which part I need smh. Thank you
Glad you found it helpful. Honestly I'm not sure offhand without doing some research. Hard to diagnose cars over text. I'm sorry I couldn't be a more help
Our 2003 crv has issues holding idle after warm up. Could this be the cause for it? During cold start everything is working good, but once the idle lowers, it gets worse. No cel at all. Spark plugs&coil packs are good and injectors seem operational as well. Im gonna run a vacuum test in the future but id like to get some more info before i dive into it.
Thanks in advance.
what is the approximate cost for something like this? With labor hours and any possible replacements (I know here you were able to clean it). I'm looking into this problem with my car and would love to do it myself but do not have the space or tools.
It really depends on your region and what type of shop you have do it. Could be anywhere from a hundred bucks to five hundred bucks I would guess
would this also cause multiple misfires?
It could, but not usually. Misfires under load or?
The small black cap came off on my intake manifold solenoid. Is the cap responsible for anything? Should I replace it ?
Can a gunked IMRC assembly cause hesitation when VTEC is about to kick it? Mine seems to hesitate slightly when its about to engage. I've already replaced the vtec solenoid. I assume the IMRC is like variable intake like the old T-VIS system toyota used.
1963c10 I couldn't say for sure absolutely, but yes if yours is gunked up I could see that causing a problem
cool. i appreciate it. sucks that i just put everything back together after replacing a starter. it was fairly easy though so i may go back out there and remove it and clean it to see what happens.
1963c10 no problem man. And yeah definitely easy to take it back apart especially since you've already done it once. Certainly a good call to clean it out one way or another
another quick question....i got the p1077 and p1519 code after replacing the starter and did not have the issue before. i did replace the o-rings for then intake. all vacuum lines seem to be connected properly. was i supposed to put oil or gasket sealer on the o-rings for the intake? could there be a leak there causing those codes?
do u have to replace the whole imrc system or can u just replace the sensor? with the p1077 code
You can replace the sensor if that's bad or clean the imrc as seen in this video
Hi have questions mi crv 2003 have check engine light on .. supost say the part P1077 imt valve is stuck high rpm position
Also code p0661 irmc circuit voltage low..u help me and tell me what is the solution to myself fix please.. thanks
You need to do a little bit of diag on it. I would start with pulling the IMRC, cleaning it and checking its operation if you're not familiar diagnosing things.
Is there a parr number for that bushing in the intake
If you have to do this might as well change your pcv valve too if you have high milage cheap and easy to change out this will get gunked up and cause oil to burn when high rpm and starting of the vehicle
I agree. Good call!
hose from pcv to air intake isn't expensive either
My question is what do u use to clean out the inside
Would this cause it not to start?I got this code so I parked it.Started it a few times thru out the week.Then one day went to start it to take to shop.It cranks but won’t start…any suggestions would be great thanks!Great videos
Could this problem leave you stranded on the road if you continue using it with that p1078 code
What do you mean by removing the cooling lines? Do they hsve antifreeze in them or something?
Yes they do have antifreeze in them
i think he said don't disconnect the cooling lines unless you want to deal with coolant spilling everywhere and having to replace the lost fluid. You'd probably have to burp the cooling system too, so don't touch the coolant lines sir
I have a manual 02 base rsx with the P1077 and in first and second gear it has some bad intermittent bucking. Could that be cause by this not operating properly.
Yes it certainly could be. But I haven't personally seen it cause that issue
Hi. I got your comment on cleaning the inside of the intake. How do you clean the IMRC part?How do you clean it and with what? Thank you.
Fass Strokaa I used the parts cleaner at my work. It's a water-based solvent and a brush. But you can basically detail it with some paper towels and such. Just don't use anything too incredibly harsh on it that would affect the plastic. Or heck, throw it in your dishwasher. Lol I'm just joking don't do that
Thank you. Since you didn't mention or showed the cleaning of the actual part(IMRC) I thought maybe there's a special solution to clean it. Thanks again.
Fass Strokaa no problem. Yes sometimes I leave some things out. I don't get a lot of time to videotape since I'm at work. So I try to keep things short. I hope the video helped out and thanks for commenting.
My 2003 crv has a low idle. The rvmp is very low my AC can not start unless I rav the engine . the code p1077 came up . my question is does that affect low idling of the engine
Is this intake setup only on the CRV ?
I have a 08 accord and it doesn't have this type intake.
Do you need to apply vaccum to reinstall imrc properly?
Good question. I haven't done one of these in a while so I don't recall 100%. But I don't remember having to apply vacuum. Let me know what you find out when you do yours and I'll update the description. I appreciate it.
What do you clean it with?
Great Video, wish you would have included your technique for cleaning it though. Not sure what is safe or effective for cleaning something like this.
Thanks. And I just use brake clean with a big towel if I remember right. Like a kitchen towel
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Is that valve plastic or metal? I've heard brakeclean is bad for plastic. Also, what exactly is the sludge that builds up in there? Is it oil? Random crap from the air that got through the filter? Or what?
It's plastic. Brake clean does not affect these automotive engine grade plastics. They are designed to withstand chemicals
I tried unplugging and plugging in the connector for the solenoid but didn't hear any clicking. Everything holds vacuum but I wonder, is the vacuum supposed to go up or down depending on throttle position? I had my son blip the throttle while watching the vacuum gauge and it stayed steady while idling and went up a little with the blip but didn't come back down after. I only had code P1078 come up and the car had a little trouble starting a few days before.
Hi your video helped me a lot. But im still getting the code. I didnt verify the wiring but i took it apart, cleaned it and replaced the sensor and solenoid. Do you think it is dangerous to drive the car with this system malfunctioning?
Hey, glad to hear the video help you out! No you won't do any damage at all by driving it with the code or it not functioning. You might just have reduced fuel mileage or power
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Hey so I never got this fixed and I am finally able to give it another shot. Long story short I put a multimeter on the connection to the solenoid and didnt see any voltage between the terminals with the key on engine off (accessories powered). Do you know if this would still have voltage on a 2002 model year vehicle? Thanks for your reply
Can I use brake cleaner or carb cleaner?
That's a little harsh on it depending on what type you use. But I'm sure it would be fine
NoNonsenseKnowHow ok thanks
Mecanic change valve pcv and i bring the part(aftermarket Motorcraft)
but before job no engine light
was on in my wife crv
2004.
after mechanic performed the job engine light is on now code p1078.
He guet out the intake manifold cover like you but now he sees did everything properly and if i want check again have to charge me for review and cleaning.
according your exelent instructions a have to get some time to do my self.
thanks to be generous helping as.
Vacuum line for IMRC solenoid was probably not reconnected or came loose.
This was a very great guide. Thank you so much for this really good walkthrough
Thanks, and no problem. I'm glad it was helpful. Thank you for commenting
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Of course! I do have one question. I'm assuming you have to put something to lubricate the mechanism after you put it back into the runners. Do you just use oil?
@@Spud36 you don't really have to lubricate it no
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow okay! Thank you for the clarification and all of the advice dude!
@@Spud36 No prob!
How can I test the twelve volts shown at 1:17
I have 2 codes P1077 and P0661. Will replacing the IMRC clear these???
I would start with checking for operation of the imrc and cleaning it out
Thx man helped me out big
Thanks fo the video. How would I go about cleaning it? Could I used WD-40 to clean the cylinder and inside of the it?
Also, if I wanted to just vacuum the air out through that hose, Do I have to take the manifold out, or could i access it without removing everything?
No problem. Yeah WD-40 or any equivalent solvents should work fine. I used a old shirt wrapped around a long drill bit to clean one out once and that worked pretty good. I'm not sure I understand your second question about the vacuum
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow There's another video i was watching, and you mentioned it lightly that when putting back the assembly to not force it but instead use vacuum on the hose to ease it back into place. Could I access that hose line without taking all the hoses and Intake Manifold again?
My situation is that I replaced the Starter Motor. When I was putting the intake manifold in, I was trying to see if could take the assembly apart in order to more easily install it back into the engine, whcih led to me opening up the assembly. I put that back together and was able to put the entire Intake Manifold back in. But I didn't know about vacuuming the air out when assembling it.
@@greennblue10 as long as you were able to assemble it back in there fine then it shouldn't be a problem. If you apply vacuum to it, it should rotate back and forth. If there's an issue, you'll find out because it will set the engine light
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Yeah, i have the check engine light on. Are there any physical symptoms you see right away? I don't see any discharge on my engine, nor do I see my temperature gauges red-lining.
Very Helpful, i was able to determine the problem with assistance from your video , Thanks
Awesome to hear that! And no problem
I changed the intake manifold complete with all accessories checked the the solenoid, I have vacuum on the bottom hose, I have power key on engine off & ground when engine off. But I still get the p1078 code. Any ideas?
Hi there
Please I have the same car with low idling. when I turned on the A/C or heater the idle becomes rough by dropping down below 600. Please any help to fix this
Hey , thanks for this awesome video.... and also the comments they helped out as well...
No problem! Glad to hear you found the video useful. And yeah comments are always an amazing contribution
I offered tons of valuable information pertaining to this repair and problem. If you can't figure it out after watching this whole video then I'm not sure what to tell you. This video should serve to give you a good understanding of how the system works and the most common problems
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You made it look easy going into detail. Other videos are hard to understand because the guy in the video has done it for 20yrs and doesnt know how to explain thier own videos
I'm having a problem with my 03 CRV. Had a "mechanic friend" look at it and I think he did something wrong. Now my wife's CRV just idles up and down but not going past 3rpm. Any thoughts you could help with?
Thanks man I appreciate the words. I tried to make things simple to understand, but yes it can be tough especially when you do this kind of work for a living. Honestly I wouldn't really be able to give you much Insight on your CRV without seeing it. I work on all makes and models, so I'm not too incredibly familiar with any one single model and all of its common problems
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Oh I completely understand. This is what I get when I have a "mechanic friend".I'm going to look into this more. It's a unknown answer.👍🏼
@@bludragontruck9743 Maybe he didn't seat the gasket correctly(intake manifold gasket) and there is an enormous vacuum leak because of it. Sounds like a bad vacuum leak to me at least. Maybe a frail vacuum line fell apart when he disconnected it. I'm guessing you fixed the problem already tho.
@@Titans2138 Hey, thanks for checking on me. Nah, havent had to mess with it. I really put a lot of money into it. So I stopped, still having idle problems. No you're right , it has to be air leak somewhere. But my a/c in my truck was out and a/c at home too. And because of our new truck being in the garage so long because of COVID-19 that rats got in and chewed up some wires. I'm just thinking about taking it to the dealer ship. What do you think ?
+BluDragon Truck On 2000 Accord the intake is up against the firewall so you there's a blind spot and when I replaced the intake manifold the gasket got caught on something and got pinched so there was a big air leak and the car had a nasty idle that surged up and down between like 800 rpm and 3000 rpm. If it's new and under warranty you should take it to the dealership but personally I try to fix everything myself because fixing things makes me happy. There's no special people, mechanics look in the service manual just like everyone else could if they wanted to, although of course, experience is valuable on complicated matters and only a full time mechanic is going to spend $3000-$8000 on a fancy scan tool. Mechanics look up youtube videos too just like everyone else.
My says it’s the IMAC solenoid would you still recommend cleaning the IMAC or replacing the solenoid by the way I’m driving CRV
I suppose try replacing the solenoid and see if it fixes it. lmk what you find out
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I just replaced my IMAC solenoid by the way I have a pending code p1077 so I be driving couple days and see if it goes away if it does it was my solenoid.
Great vid thx. I have 1078 and will try to resolve it this week. Do you know of a scanner that will read and clear SRS codes? Liked and subd.
What’d you used to clean them?
I used the parts cleaner solvent at my work with a brush. And then I used some towels to detail it and clean everything off
i took this part out and cleaned it and put everything back in but when i started it up the rpm’s were fluctuating and the engine was almost kicking it seemed like and i dont know what happened
You tried disconnecting the battery or clearing the codes? also make sure you have all your vacuum hoses connected
Ur very good and explaining. Thank you
Does anyone know where you can buy just the rubber diaphragm ?
You will have to replace the whole assembly $300 or find one in a junk yard...sorry 😢
Would this cost a no start?
Question for you:
I recently replaced my starter (2002 CR-V) and in the process of doing that I broke the little rounded plastic cap off the top of the Bypass Control Solenoid Valve (or in your video your computer looks like it says IMT (IMRC) SOL V.), you call it a vacuum switching valve. It is the little black valve with a small hose going attached to the canister and then another small hose that attaches to the bottom of valve and then splits and attaches to intake manifold in two places. To me the little plastic cap doesn't appear to be necessary, it just looks like a little mushroom, it curves over and pulls in air from underneath instep of straight down the top I assume to keep out contaminants. Doesn't look like there were any moving parts in it. I glued it back and had no issues. Then the POS aftermarket Ultima starter from Oriellys crapped out in 2 months. I took it back for a refund and paid for a Honda OEM starter. Anyhow I have broken it again on reinstall of the OEM starter and this time lost the little black cap so I can't glue it back. Am I correct about the function of the little cap? Just like an umbrella on top of the valve right? Replacement is $130 so not planning on replacing it at the moment assuming I am right about it.
Great video. May be really helpful for me in the future. Wish I had thought to clean the inside of the rotary valve after having removing the intake manifold twice in just a few months! But now I know!
I just tried the test you talked about. I turned on the key to acc position but did not start car. I unplugged the electrical connector back and forth but heard no clicking. So maybe the valve is broken/stuck anyhow. I'm not getting any check engine light. I plan to hook it to a scanner tomorrow and see if I have a code. If the valve is malfunctioning what problems would it cause? Loss of power or response? And if that's all and were to decide not to replace do you think it would damage anything?
Josh Armstrong thanks for your comment. Yes I think you'll be just fine without that little plastic piece on there. Worst case is it could cause premature failure of the part in the future. But I tend to doubt it would be any issue at all. And yeah that probably would have had a decent idea to clean out the rotary valve with the intake off . but of course it's not very hard to remove the intake so no big deal there.
definitely a good call going with an oem starter is well! Those aftermarket ones are really a gamble. Of course they offer a lifetime warranty on a lot of them. but what good is that if it craps out every few months.
Yeah no kidding... evidently everyone knew that except me... found that out the hard way.
By now you already fixed your starter problem. I bought a rebuilt kit from eBay for $19 last year and fixed my problem. The brushes were all worn down to the wires.
I have the same code on my 2002 crv won't pass over 3000 rpm.. any suggestions? Thanks!
Would this P1078 cause it to not start? I got the code so Immediately parked it….next day tried to start wouldn’t start. just cranks over
My automatic 04 Honda CR-V recently started revving by itself when in neutral/park. It sometimes does it when I come up to a red light while in drive but not as often (I'm always ready to throw it into neutral if my brakes can't keep me still). I don't think it's the throttle body sticking because It intermittently revs to somewhere below 4k RPMs, drops back to a normal rpm, then repeats. I've also noticed that I don't need to touch the gas pedal to maintain a 30mph speed on a slightly uphill slope. I took it to advanced auto parts for a scan and had P1078 and a bad O2 sensor. All that I've seen is that these two things would cause problem start ups and bad fuel efficiency, not random engine revving that makes me look like I'm challenging people to a street race lol. Though I do feel like my O2 sensor sending my engine weird mixture signals, combined with a stuck intake manifold, would cause my engine to rev... I would just like to hear if you think my problems will go away if I replace this. Lol
Honestly, couldn't tell you for sure without seeing the car. But I would definitely take care of the engine code and O2 sensor. Good place to start. Might have a vacuum leak as well
Check the idle air control valve, I have a 2004 and that's what it was on my car.
Great video man thanks!
Failure generates this code. I have that code and my engine has no strength to put it in the D ... need help
So I'm trying to help a friend of mine, they are getting P0661 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit Low Bank 1a. I wasn't real sure on this one and told them to take it in to get a diagnostic done on it and they are stating they need an entire new intake?! I've been wrenching for years and years, something seems off about what the code is trying to lead us to and what the shop is saying they need. It almost sounds like the control valve might be bad? I haven't looked over the car myself just yet.
Replacing the IMRC angle position sensor (37890-PND-A01) fixed that on mine. Replaced the original…had to drill out the screw heads to get it off, then one of the screw stubs was stuck, but finally got it out with PB Blaster and vise grips. Whole new intake manifold seems crazy, maybe he meant the IMRC rotary valve. I almost replaced that out of frustration, but it turned out to be working fine after 250K miles. Make sure it’s seated as shown starting at 6:10. That’s CRITICAL. Spin it back just like he showed.
Video showed very well what needed to be done. Of interest to me is relative cost and what all other items needed to be replaced just to get in to clean and/or replace the IMRC solenoid valve. I have the valve itself around $90.00. How many gaskets will also need replaced or you would recommend having on hand? Any other special connectors? I generally prefer to have everything I may need on hand and return any items not used. Your thoughts?
Unfortunately it's been quite some time since I shot this video. I work on several cars today and all makes and models. Wouldn't really be able to give you any other specifics that aren't in the video. Sorry I couldn't be of more help
That's great that you prepare yourself so much for jobs though. I usually just tear in. Sometimes goes smooth and sometimes not too much
Thank you 🎉definitely an expert!!!
Msn i wish you could help me with my 2003 crv.can do a little to it but nothing like you .thanks for the great vid.
No problem man. It's not a tough job, just tear into it!
What's wrong with it? I have a 03 as well, my wife drives it. Shes complaining of the engine revving up and down. I can't figure it out.
@@bludragontruck9743 my 03 does that as well it can be a number of things.first i would buy a can of throttle body and air intake cleaner.remove your flex large hose off your air cleaner box.bend it out straight.look in with a flashlight amd you should see the round metal part on throttle body.with engine OFF spray a few blasts into it and be careful not to get on other sensors in the rubber flex hose.let sit 5 minutes,then start.may seem hard to start initially but will.press gas to maybe 3000 rpm a couple of times.it seemed to help my 03 crv.
@@chuckmaleman5216 Hey, that's how it all started, right there! The flex hose to the intake box.OMG🤯 Mine had a freakin huge crack on it. I replaced it and wham! Lit the whole cluster up! Now I'm stuck with the same problem 3 months later. I tried what you suggested. The scanner ran so many codes my wife is scared to drive it. I'm not a mechanic by any means. You and I stuck on same boat at one time. But I'm still here. My buddy the "mechanic" fucked me by taking everything apart. This guy in the video made it look simple and sweet but im kind of intimidated. 👍🏼
@@bludragontruck9743 yes they always make it look easy.sorry i couldn't help you more.you may can find a honest easier download on you tube.
Excellent video.....! Great thank you!!!
One other thing.if you have burrs or scatches deep in manifold how do you get to them to sand off the scratches ect.
I'm not sure about that one. I suppose you could use a power drill with some kind of hone or custom-made hone
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow great,thats a good idea.i know mine needs to be cleaned.ive heard that sound for a long time.im a substitute rural mail carrier and these country roads put some awful wear and tear on a vehicle.i never knew until recently your rear end has a toe in and out adjustment. I have a 03 crv.their good cars.i can tell you,,, let me drive it on these country mail routes for a month or so. That will tell the tale.tbanks for the great vid s .
@@chuckmaleman5216 no problem! Good luck on the repair
anyone knows where to buy that diaphragm? i only need the rubber one inside the diaphragm
Had this code come up glad it was 02 senor triggering this code replace 02 senor check engine off
Hi, i watched your video and I’m thinking to do it soon... the reason I’m writing you its because I have a cr-v 2006 with 115000km and a few weeks ago it started to make a strange noise from the engine.... when I accelerate ( 3500 RPM ) you can hear like a whistle... do you think it coud be the imrc? Please i would appreciate your help!!! Thanks!
It certainly could be, but it's hard to say without hearing it. Let me know how you make out. I would be curious
Do you solve it? I also have this whistle at high rpm
It’s the vtec sound.
excellent video coming from a DIY home mechanic. I've got code P0661 - intake manifold tuning control valve control circuit. Do you know if it would be the vacuum valve or the position sensor? It is also "pending" but will not clear.
Larry Hunt thanks for your comment. Sorry no I don't know offhand. I would have to do some research or look at something like that to make a call. I work on all makes and models. So it's hard to keep track of each repair. That's why I like to make videos so sometimes I even end up looking back on them. Glad to hear the video helped out some though thanks again!
Of note, the black / yellow is actually the 12v. The other is the ground control voltage.
I figured it out and made my own video for P0661: th-cam.com/video/pJQK-yi60T4/w-d-xo.html
@@huntlarry1 I have the same problem and got excited when I saw your comment but then realized your video isn’t available anymore.
Great quality Video! However after completing and reassembly, my CR-V won't start and there is a buzzing/humming in the fuse box :( any advice?
Thanks. Unfortunately nothing coming to mind off hand
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thanks for the quick reply! After a bit more looking into the problem, I seem to have jostled the electrical connection to the starter loose while removing the IMRC unit! Just took a bit of re-sitting :)
Excellent video! Thanks!
Great job. This will help me very much because I am having the same problem with my 02 CR-V. But I have two questions:
First, when I am facing the runner, I can only turn it manually clockwise. I can not turn it all the way around, and as soon as I release it, it turn back to the original position. Is that the way it supposes to be?
Second, when I apply vacuum to it, It also does not keep turning. It stop at a certain point. and go back to the initial position only when I unplug the vacuum pump. Again, is that normal?
normal. it's spring loaded so it bounces back on it's own
Great vid !! Thank you !! How can one prevent the rodery valve from getting sludged up ? What causes it?
For one don't use cheap gas..use mobile or shell..I bought a 02 crv and clean it out using seafoam now it runs great
How do you "apply vaccum".. with what?😀
mity vac hand pump
@@BoulderHybrids yea. that's a good one
i have code p0662 on rsx any help ?
Sorry not off hand
very great video it help me out THANKS
Good job. Great technical info.
Thanks man! Appreciate the comment
Thank you very true professional....
Thank you Thank you very very much 👍