Wow,great work tom.... you are the man.. making your own bridge pipes! Your pistons were excellent shape to restore! Mine were all frozen in the caliper ( I had to attach to another cars brake line to press (hydraulicly all the pistons out of the caliper. ) I would trust you more than most shops because you understand the excellent German engineering,as you are good at reverse engineering!😀
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I agree!! I also agree the the state of replacement parts is often subpar compared to OEM. In my case, if I had the money, I know I could sell proper replacement parts if I did small production runs. The market is there. I need to find the time to learn Fusion 360! With 3D printing getting cheaper all the time...who knows! Cheers!
Someplace I have a metal 20 degree tool for the ATE calipers on my Alfa engraved with the official Alfa tool # and also a piece of Manila folder cut in a 20 degree wedge. I’ve never used the metal one
Exceleent job as always! I think the kit only brings one cup for the bleeding because you should have only one bleeder per caliper, in the place you have the inner one should be the brake fluid input. At least in the bendix ones it's like i comment. Sorry for my english. Regards from Argentina
I bought a really nice set of S Calipers for my 911. I was thinking about sending them out for refurbishment specifically because I wanted them replated. But PMB increased to $700, which I think is ridiculous. Could you share how much the replating cost? Obviously the rebuild part is totally DIY. Great video as usual! Have a great memorial weekend.
$40 for all the calipers. However, I do a lot of plating with this vendor on a cash basis. They do all my plating for my engine test stand business, Zalex Industries. I did spot blast a few hard to clean areas on the calipers prior to plating, so they were fully prepped and cleaned when I dropped them off. S calipers are aluminum right? So they are probably some kind of chem film or anodized. PMB does great work, however the finishes on their website pics were not right for 356. Their core charge for 356 brakes is $1500 for just the front plus rebuild of I think $600.
Really interested rebuild, the colour of the Zinc finish is way better than painted, I was only looking at my 911 brakes in a box yesterday, wondering if everything was there!! The brake line your using what's the type, I have only used copper, and did you get generic ends re finished? as most I know rust on the shelf!! 👍👍
I used steel brake line. Nickel copper lines are popular now, but not as tough and string as steel. The ends are readily available, but I had the originals replated. Some of the replacement fittings are longer. Since this line needs to fit up tight to the caliper, I had the originals replated. The hydraulic seal is actually made with the end of the tubing and not the nut, so I'm confident it's as good as new.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto thanks for the time to reply, appreciated, I'll have to find steel here in the UK Tip for the rubber vibration hose, try cutting it diagonally so it still wraps around when caught or expands with age. It also adds weight to prevent vibration (not just pushing against the body) which can cause cracking over time which was probably Porsche's intention🤓
It's probably not in the manuals because it's a specialist procedure. There are engineering tables for torque based on the grade of the fastener. These are high strength bolts, 12.9 I think. I would look up the torque values based on that.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Thank you for the reply, I've already search the torque tables but it seemed a bit low and when I disassembled them they were a bit rusty so trying to do reverse torque wasn't feasable.
So nice to have the garage band back in house.
Hope to see more band members join in soon
Pretty soon Zack will need his own channel- cool music with a sweet vibe.
He should! Hopefully I can catch a jam session with a few of his friends in the garage
Wow,great work tom.... you are the man.. making your own bridge pipes! Your pistons were excellent shape to restore! Mine were all frozen in the caliper ( I had to attach to another cars brake line to press (hydraulicly all the pistons out of the caliper. )
I would trust you more than most shops because you understand the excellent German engineering,as you are good at reverse engineering!😀
can say it over and ove.r. highly underrated channel ! good job on this once more !greetings
Thanks man!
Looks great. I continue to be impressed and inspired by your creative solutions to the “how do I” questions that every diy garage mechanic faces. 👍👍
Thanks! My ways are very different than what most shops would do. I have the advantage of taking my time and having fun since it's my own car.
7:57 "If you can't buy it...... Bend it!!
Story of my life, and I saved $60 bucks I think!
Clean, clean, clean... the montra of restoration. I've been lucky with the Jag as I haven't had to replace any brake hard lines 🤞. Great tips.
It feels better putting clean parts on a car for some reason. Not sure why because they are supposed to get dirty😄😂
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I agree!! I also agree the the state of replacement parts is often subpar compared to OEM. In my case, if I had the money, I know I could sell proper replacement parts if I did small production runs. The market is there. I need to find the time to learn Fusion 360! With 3D printing getting cheaper all the time...who knows! Cheers!
Get on it! Let me know if you need help. I have a large network of vendors that I use👍
@@GarageTimeAutoResto 🤔 Thanks!
Always wondered how they get those bends so tight and close to the fittings.
I'm sure there are specialized tools, but my way is the home diy way, ha ha
Someplace I have a metal 20 degree tool for the ATE calipers on my Alfa engraved with the official Alfa tool # and also a piece of Manila folder cut in a 20 degree wedge. I’ve never used the metal one
Ha ha, cardboard for the win.
Exceleent job as always! I think the kit only brings one cup for the bleeding because you should have only one bleeder per caliper, in the place you have the inner one should be the brake fluid input. At least in the bendix ones it's like i comment. Sorry for my english. Regards from Argentina
Thanks, your English is great😄
My calipers also have banjo style inlet right behind the piston.
I think they sent me a generic 911 rebuild kit.
I bought a really nice set of S Calipers for my 911. I was thinking about sending them out for refurbishment specifically because I wanted them replated. But PMB increased to $700, which I think is ridiculous. Could you share how much the replating cost? Obviously the rebuild part is totally DIY. Great video as usual! Have a great memorial weekend.
$40 for all the calipers. However, I do a lot of plating with this vendor on a cash basis. They do all my plating for my engine test stand business, Zalex Industries.
I did spot blast a few hard to clean areas on the calipers prior to plating, so they were fully prepped and cleaned when I dropped them off.
S calipers are aluminum right? So they are probably some kind of chem film or anodized.
PMB does great work, however the finishes on their website pics were not right for 356.
Their core charge for 356 brakes is $1500 for just the front plus rebuild of I think $600.
Really interested rebuild, the colour of the Zinc finish is way better than painted, I was only looking at my 911 brakes in a box yesterday, wondering if everything was there!!
The brake line your using what's the type, I have only used copper, and did you get generic ends re finished? as most I know rust on the shelf!! 👍👍
I used steel brake line. Nickel copper lines are popular now, but not as tough and string as steel.
The ends are readily available, but I had the originals replated. Some of the replacement fittings are longer. Since this line needs to fit up tight to the caliper, I had the originals replated. The hydraulic seal is actually made with the end of the tubing and not the nut, so I'm confident it's as good as new.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto thanks for the time to reply, appreciated, I'll have to find steel here in the UK
Tip for the rubber vibration hose, try cutting it diagonally so it still wraps around when caught or expands with age. It also adds weight to prevent vibration (not just pushing against the body) which can cause cracking over time which was probably Porsche's intention🤓
Hi, I'm rebuilding mine too but can't find the torque for the 4 bolts who hold both halves together.
It's probably not in the manuals because it's a specialist procedure. There are engineering tables for torque based on the grade of the fastener. These are high strength bolts, 12.9 I think. I would look up the torque values based on that.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Thank you for the reply, I've already search the torque tables but it seemed a bit low and when I disassembled them they were a bit rusty so trying to do reverse torque wasn't feasable.