As a beginner, I have watched dozens of knife sharpening video, this one tops the lot. Clear, simple and practical, thank you Ben! Now...to find me a decent combi-waterstone!
So pleased you enjoyed it. We try to make it as simple as possible so folks can have a go and learn a simple technique that gives great results Many thanks cheers Ben
Loved all of your knife sharpening videos. So clear and simple yet very effective. Didn't know about the marker pen or newspaper. You have just got yourself another subscriber.
This is the best sharpening video I have seen so far on the net Ben.... perfect Scandinavian edging... Old news paper wrapping around the board for a final strop is also a good tip... and in the field use the flat part of the car door window as a honing steal for a quick straighten up... there are a couple of videos on TH-cam which demonstrate this and it really does work.. Cool Beans mate.. Cheers Ben T
Brilliant! I employ many of your techniques when sharpening my blades, however, most have a double bevel with approximately a 20 degree finish edge. Have you a video showing the best way to sharpen this style of blade as well as other types, like full flat grind and the like? You earned a dedicated subscriber, as learning is the backbone of survival. Cheers!! Zip~
An excellent informative video. I've often thought on the oil to protect the blade but what if you're using the blade for food preparation? I wouldn't like an oily tang to my cheese sandwich.
this guy makes vids that are so terrifically helpful...detail tips so you can really do the things he showa....cheers..laphant1.....if i had teachers like that i would have taken a gillion shop classes...lol
Thanks Ben.I would not use WD-40!!. We used it at work just before we shut down for christmas.it was sprayed on roller belt lines.when Christmas break was over the rollers were coated ln RUST!!!.this was done ever year that I worked there.about. 10 years.thought you should wood like to know.my kids and I like your videos.. Hope this helps.
excellent video, and one of the best I have seen on scandi edge sharpening, verry similar to the technique I use. You might want to lighten up on the strop pressure a bit though.
lol he's a top bladesmith that knife he's sharpening is one of his it won best in class two years running at the blade show and your giving him advuce on stropping pmsl
+Randal Flagg well "top baldesmith" or not, he's stropping wrong. and as far as the knife,.its too thick to have a scandi grind on it, typical of bushcrafters thinking a scandi grind is the be all end all but also wanting a thick sturdy blade, but not understanding that with a thicker blade the angle becomes too steep to be really practical. I see this all the time nowdays, people just getting into knives due to anoter intrest and getting drawn in by "this is the best" etc. while not understanding why a scandi grind works great, but only on a thinner knife.
What do you think is the best make of 4" sanding belts, and wet n dry paper. I have made the sharpening jig you showed, with corian. Thanks for showing it. I have several pieces of perfectly flat granit, just need good wet n dry paper.
top notch quality again just a quick question is it needed to use a nagura stone? Also does this method get rid or dinks on the edge because i have a couple nasty ones from some real hard ebony
Thank you so much!! Ive had my mora for a while and i couldn't figure how to sharpen the tip. Now its razor sharp! Also how do you clean your water stone? Mine is white but has this weird green hue to it..this should also come in handy with my new wetterlings.
Hi Ben, I have been really enjoying watching your videos. In particular, I watched your video on how to sharpen a bushcraft knife and tried to sharpen my Companion Mora carbon steel knife using a King Ice Bear water stone (250/1000 grit). In 3-4 years I have owned this knife, I have mostly used it for whittling green wood and I never sharpened it until it became completely blunt... I tried using a Fiskars knife sharpening tool to little real avail, and prior on a sharpening stone not knowing what I was doing except it didn't help much. The blade which should be 2 cm wide is now 1.6 cm wide, the blade looks worn... So I had a go whilst watching your video. I started with 250 grit and noticed that each time the line I made with my marker pen would only half disappear which made me wonder whether perhaps I wasn't following the grind and somehow rounding the grind. I did both sides twice on the 250 grit, and at some point I felt the blade was less dull, so I went to the 1000 grit. Each time I would do more and then I felt the blade keep reverting to being dull again. I went back and forth between 250 and 1000 for almost six hours before I stopped. Your video makes it look so very simple... so where am I ballsing it up? In the middle of a pandemic might seem like not the best time to enquire about courses but I am beginning to wonder whether watching videos will be enough... Do you run courses in knife sharpening? Either when courses can be attended again or perhaps online? Oliver
Do you soak the Water-stone over night ? On the instructions with mine it said to do so but I wasn't sure... Also have do you feel about blade angle clips (knife guides I believe they are called) that you place on the blade for sharpening to get the right angle ?
You can use the same technique on any stone really, oil, diamond or even ceramic. Any oil on the blade is better than none but it will be a little thick and make the inside of your sheath pretty nasty. Try using a light wipe of olive oil. Least it will be food safe 👍
Really good video. This is all the info you need to get a knife razor sharp. Sad to see how many gadget, which tries to help you over-complicate things...
im kinda new to bushcraft and survival knives but somewhat understand the grinds and from what i could tell wouldnt this work with any type of grind? plz help im confused
WD-40 is only good for replacing water or to penetrate hinges etc. that won't budge due to rust. It is a rather poor choice for knife maintenance: It won't protect the blade very well against rust, it is not food safe and an environmental hazard if it gets into bodies of water. It is also a less than average lubricant for folders and may affect certain glues and plastics b/c of the solvents it contains. Your average 3in1-oil is a better - and cheaper - choice. Better yet would be a food-safe variety if you intend to cut food with it. Actually, if you live in a rather dry climate, you can just clean the knife - even carbon steel ones - with dishwashing liquid, dry it thoroughly and be done with it. I only oil knives for long-term storage.
While what you say is true, I use it alot and I think its great for knife maintenance. I have alot of 1095 knives that rust if you look at them funny and WD40 helps me remove traces of rust and protect them short term. (Long term, they dont need protecting as I keep them in the house) I also use it on folders and alot by giving them a good clean with soap and water then spaying them down. It gets in where it needs to go, lubricates and pushes the water out. It saves me alot of time compared to dissassembling. Its also good for removing and protecting knife and saw blade from sticky sap. It alsp prevents clogging of fine grit ceramic stones. Basically its a 10/10 maintenance product if used with some sense.
Well, I can only speak for myself but I use it because its cheap, flamable and available everywhere from gas stations to grocery stores. It does what I need it to and comes in a a pocket size 100ml spray can. Point me to another product that does all that just as cheaper and better and I'll likely switch.
So why do so many dudes pull the blade sideways instead of like you do it? I like your way better i just wonder why they do it?i mean the way you do it on the strop is how they use the stone
We are showing how to sharpen a scandi grind using a flat sharpening bench stone which is similar, but we show a different technique to help folks who struggle with maintaining the angle of the bevel. Breaking it down into these two sections I have found really helps people who aren’t getting good results with other techniques and gives them the confidence and results they are after.
I don't much care for Japanese water stones. Too messy, too expensive, and completely unnecessary for me. I greatly prefer Quality Arkansas Oilstones. I don't know how often you look at you knives under a microscope, but I can't see any difference in edge quality at all, and find 6000 and higher grits do nothing more that an extra hard Arkansas Oilstone and a good strop does. But what people really need to learn is how to sharpen a bushcraft knife in the field. It could save their lives, and Japanese water stones, and not much good in the field unless you have a mule. Arkansas stones are far easier to carry and use in the field, but people need to know how to keep a knife sharp without any commercial stone. If you can't pluck a rock from a stream and turn a dull knife into a sharp knife, you aren't ready for a survival situation. "Razor sharp is also TH-cam, marketing nonsense. No woodsman ever put a razor bevel on his knife, and neither did knife companies until know nothings on TH-cam started demanding such an edge. It's a silly, silly, silly thing to do to a good knife, and unless al you intend to do with your knife is shave hair and perform surgery, it's goes beyond silly and passes dumb. "Sharp" has nothing to do with whether a knife will shave hair or slice paper. Nothing at all, but TH-cam still teaches that it does, and those who learned from TH-cam actually believe it. "Sharp" is simply the condition of the edge. Period. An edge with a ten degree bevel per side will shave hair, but it isn't one bit sharper than an edge with a twenty-five degree bevel which will not shave hair. The ten degree bevel simply has more metal behind the edge which prevents the edge from slicing through tiny, unstable thing such as hair. Both edges will do all the real world cutting you need to do, but the twenty-five degree bevel per side will keep its edge up to five times as long. There have been standards for bevel degrees since the early twentieth century, and they still work far better than the "sharp as a razor" crowd knives. Scalpels, Japanese sushi knives, and razors----ten to twelve degrees per side. Pocketknives----fifteen degrees per side. Kitchen and food prep knives---seventeen degrees per side. General, all around use knives, and most belt knives for outdoor use----twenty degrees per side. Hunting knives intended for large game----twenty-five degrees per side. Unfortunately, TH-cam has taught people that only the incredibly silly "razor sharp" is a good edge. It isn't good, it's silly, and because of how much easier it dulls, it can be deadly in a survival situation. At the very best, it takes decades off a knife that's used early and often.
The only difference between Arkansas stones and Japanese stones is how fast they sharpen a knife. I find that good Japanese water stones cut a lot of metal, and are effective for sharpening supersteels.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
As a beginner, I have watched dozens of knife sharpening video, this one tops the lot. Clear, simple and practical, thank you Ben! Now...to find me a decent combi-waterstone!
Finest example of knife sharpening available.
Great lesson Ben. You've taken a process that is daunting to most of us and made it much more manageable. Thank you.
So pleased you enjoyed it. We try to make it as simple as possible so folks can have a go and learn a simple technique that gives great results
Many thanks cheers Ben
By far the best sharpening vids I've ever seen. Genuine thanks!
Good job at explaining the sharping process. This is exactly how I do it. These are wicked sharp after this.
Loved ur video. First one of ur vids I watched and instantly subscribed. Very helpful thank you
awsome vid straight to the point easy to understand one of the best sharpening vids on youtube
Excellent video my friend,that's how it's done.Thats how we did the wood planes and the chisels back in the day,rough sharp edge.Stay safe.
It was Great 👍 thank you 😊 🙏
Loved all of your knife sharpening videos. So clear and simple yet very effective. Didn't know about the marker pen or newspaper. You have just got yourself another subscriber.
Excellent video mate, really easy to follow through.
Well laid out tutorial. Thank you. Atb.
This is the best sharpening video I have seen so far on the net Ben.... perfect Scandinavian edging... Old news paper wrapping around the board for a final strop is also a good tip... and in the field use the flat part of the car door window as a honing steal for a quick straighten up... there are a couple of videos on TH-cam which demonstrate this and it really does work..
Cool Beans mate.. Cheers Ben
T
Hats off to you, by far the best sharpening video I have seen.
Well explained, liked the tip of using the marker. Subbed. All the best from Scotland. Garry
Fantastic Scandi grind sharpening tutorial. Thank-you very much...
Amazing channel! Excellent tutorial! will definitely follow the channel. Many thanks !
Excellent advice as always Ben.
Thankyou
Sandy
Very nicely done, clear simple instructions
Best knife sharping video on the net . no bullshit grate video mate well done
not bad on sharpening either
Thanks Ben. I have a sharpening stone, but was a bit lost trying to use it. The tip with the pen is great.
Brilliant! I employ many of your techniques when sharpening my blades, however, most have a double bevel with approximately a 20 degree finish edge. Have you a video showing the best way to sharpen this style of blade as well as other types, like full flat grind and the like? You earned a dedicated subscriber, as learning is the backbone of survival. Cheers!! Zip~
Bingo, well done! Howdy from the Rocky Mountains.
Hands of craftsman
Bloody lovely knife
Very informative and excellent videos. Thank you.
An excellent informative video. I've often thought on the oil to protect the blade but what if you're using the blade for food preparation? I wouldn't like an oily tang to my cheese sandwich.
Very helpful, one of my weaknesses is knife sharpenening, so found this very helpful. Appreciated
this guy makes vids that are so terrifically helpful...detail tips so you can really do the things he showa....cheers..laphant1.....if i had teachers like that i would have taken a gillion shop classes...lol
Great video. Brilliant idea with the pen.
Thanks Ben.I would not use WD-40!!. We used it at work just before we shut down for christmas.it was sprayed on roller belt lines.when Christmas break was over the rollers were coated ln RUST!!!.this was done ever year that I worked there.about. 10 years.thought you should wood like to know.my kids and I like your videos.. Hope this helps.
Brilliant. Thanks mate
your fingers tell a story, I bet you could strike a match with them.....nice presentation, ta
Perfect explanation thank you 👍🏼
Amazing channel! I love looking earth, explore and loosen up...
Awesome. Thanks. Peace from Berkshire.
Very helpful. Thanks.
Thanks Ben. I think I recognise you from the Bushcraft show.? In any case, great video. Thank you for helping us noobies.
Hey thats great glad you enjoyed the video and hope to see you at the show next year. come over and say hi.
many thanks cheers, Ben
Thanks for this clear and well-explained upload.
Top video. Very clear. Thanks.
Nice and actually instructive video. Thx
The back & forth technique was bad I thought, but maybe its not as the results you have are first class!
excellent video, and one of the best I have seen on scandi edge sharpening, verry similar to the technique I use. You might want to lighten up on the strop pressure a bit though.
lol he's a top bladesmith that knife he's sharpening is one of his it won best in class two years running at the blade show and your giving him advuce on stropping pmsl
+Randal Flagg well "top baldesmith" or not, he's stropping wrong. and as far as the knife,.its too thick to have a scandi grind on it, typical of bushcrafters thinking a scandi grind is the be all end all but also wanting a thick sturdy blade, but not understanding that with a thicker blade the angle becomes too steep to be really practical. I see this all the time nowdays, people just getting into knives due to anoter intrest and getting drawn in by "this is the best" etc. while not understanding why a scandi grind works great, but only on a thinner knife.
Axe puck to the bevel, spiderco whetstone ceramic 850 to the leading edge.
Great video, and fantastic knives - got one, absolute favourite! Recommended.
Nice vid! Great Step by step walk through
What do you think is the best make of 4" sanding belts, and wet n dry paper. I have made the sharpening jig you showed, with corian. Thanks for showing it. I have several pieces of perfectly flat granit, just need good wet n dry paper.
As ever Ben, great tutorial
great vid mate finally got my knife extremely sharp!
Outstanding video!
Nice one Ben
This is great
Hey man great vids! Love em! What brand stone would u recommend ?
Thank u
top notch quality again just a quick question is it needed to use a nagura stone? Also does this method get rid or dinks on the edge because i have a couple nasty ones from some real hard ebony
what oil would you recommend? Great tutorial. thanks
Rob Rees He actually mentioned his first choice: Camellia oil. Often used on Japanese sushi knifes as it's foodsafe.
Thank you so much!! Ive had my mora for a while and i couldn't figure how to sharpen the tip. Now its razor sharp! Also how do you clean your water stone? Mine is white but has this weird green hue to it..this should also come in handy with my new wetterlings.
Excellent tutorial!
Do you apply pressure on both strokes or just the pull stroke?
Hi Ben, I have been really enjoying watching your videos. In particular, I watched your video on how to sharpen a bushcraft knife and tried to sharpen my Companion Mora carbon steel knife using a King Ice Bear water stone (250/1000 grit). In 3-4 years I have owned this knife, I have mostly used it for whittling green wood and I never sharpened it until it became completely blunt... I tried using a Fiskars knife sharpening tool to little real avail, and prior on a sharpening stone not knowing what I was doing except it didn't help much. The blade which should be 2 cm wide is now 1.6 cm wide, the blade looks worn... So I had a go whilst watching your video. I started with 250 grit and noticed that each time the line I made with my marker pen would only half disappear which made me wonder whether perhaps I wasn't following the grind and somehow rounding the grind. I did both sides twice on the 250 grit, and at some point I felt the blade was less dull, so I went to the 1000 grit. Each time I would do more and then I felt the blade keep reverting to being dull again. I went back and forth between 250 and 1000 for almost six hours before I stopped. Your video makes it look so very simple... so where am I ballsing it up?
In the middle of a pandemic might seem like not the best time to enquire about courses but I am beginning to wonder whether watching videos will be enough... Do you run courses in knife sharpening? Either when courses can be attended again or perhaps online? Oliver
very nice, thanks 👍✌🥃
Thanks a lot glad you enjoyed it. cheers Ben
Do you soak the Water-stone over night ? On the instructions with mine it said to do so but I wasn't sure... Also have do you feel about blade angle clips (knife guides I believe they are called) that you place on the blade for sharpening to get the right angle ?
really interested stuff you have on here Ben. I'll hit the sub button in a moment.
Atvb dave
Great stuff - thanks
ty!!
Where did you get the wet stone, and the strop?
Brilliant!
This is really helpful, Ben; thank you. Please use some Vaseline petroleum jelly on your hands, ya hear!
Would the same process apply to a scandi mod ? Scandi convex specifically?
great video
Is the process the same with a oil stone? And is 123 oil good for a carbon steel blade?
You can use the same technique on any stone really, oil, diamond or even ceramic. Any oil on the blade is better than none but it will be a little thick and make the inside of your sheath pretty nasty.
Try using a light wipe of olive oil. Least it will be food safe 👍
good stuff Ben. Love your work dude
what type of stones do you use?
Nice Vid.
Really good video. This is all the info you need to get a knife razor sharp. Sad to see how many gadget, which tries to help you over-complicate things...
Please, same information about that "marking-pen"
Excellent thank you.
That nice is a beauty.
How to sharpen a Scandi grind? I have a morakniv, and I am afraid to damage the knife!
The knife in the video is a Scandi grind so it's perfectly applicable to a Morakniv.
What knife is that?
This is one of our Woodlander 4” classic knives we make. If you would like one drop us a line
Many thanks cheers Ben
info@benandloisorford.com
great vid thanks!
would you do this same technique for just standard pocket knives?
Mineral oil is good for rust protection and is cheap, does not go rancid.
What exactly am I looking for to know when I'm done on a side?
If there is a burr full length of the blade - you are done with side.
For some reason I am incapable of using a whetstone. My knife couldn't cut butter now.
Bravo
There's another channel that says not to use a strop on a scandi grind
0:23 hello beni fod thanks for video informacion
nice trick with the marker. where can i get that stone
subbed
У вас можно топоры преобрести ?новые
im kinda new to bushcraft and survival knives but somewhat understand the grinds and from what i could tell wouldnt this work with any type of grind? plz help im confused
good shit
hi
WD-40 is only good for replacing water or to penetrate hinges etc. that won't budge due to rust. It is a rather poor choice for knife maintenance: It won't protect the blade very well against rust, it is not food safe and an environmental hazard if it gets into bodies of water. It is also a less than average lubricant for folders and may affect certain glues and plastics b/c of the solvents it contains.
Your average 3in1-oil is a better - and cheaper - choice. Better yet would be a food-safe variety if you intend to cut food with it. Actually, if you live in a rather dry climate, you can just clean the knife - even carbon steel ones - with dishwashing liquid, dry it thoroughly and be done with it. I only oil knives for long-term storage.
kaizoebara WD is a form of acid not an all out oil!
I don't even know what to respond to that... look up the spec sheet of WD40 and you'll see that it's oil/petroleum and solvents.
While what you say is true, I use it alot and I think its great for knife maintenance. I have alot of 1095 knives that rust if you look at them funny and WD40 helps me remove traces of rust and protect them short term. (Long term, they dont need protecting as I keep them in the house) I also use it on folders and alot by giving them a good clean with soap and water then spaying them down. It gets in where it needs to go, lubricates and pushes the water out. It saves me alot of time compared to dissassembling. Its also good for removing and protecting knife and saw blade from sticky sap. It alsp prevents clogging of fine grit ceramic stones. Basically its a 10/10 maintenance product if used with some sense.
It can get the job done alright, but why bother when there are better products for said application?
Well, I can only speak for myself but I use it because its cheap, flamable and available everywhere from gas stations to grocery stores. It does what I need it to and comes in a a pocket size 100ml spray can. Point me to another product that does all that just as cheaper and better and I'll likely switch.
So why do so many dudes pull the blade sideways instead of like you do it? I like your way better i just wonder why they do it?i mean the way you do it on the strop is how they use the stone
So basically just copying a Ray Mears video about a year before. Very original.
We are showing how to sharpen a scandi grind using a flat sharpening bench stone which is similar, but we show a different technique to help folks who struggle with maintaining the angle of the bevel. Breaking it down into these two sections I have found really helps people who aren’t getting good results with other techniques and gives them the confidence and results they are after.
Would it be easier to work without wearing those chewed up leather gloves............oh..........wait a minute...........my mistake.
I don't much care for Japanese water stones. Too messy, too expensive, and completely unnecessary for me. I greatly prefer Quality Arkansas Oilstones. I don't know how often you look at you knives under a microscope, but I can't see any difference in edge quality at all, and find 6000 and higher grits do nothing more that an extra hard Arkansas Oilstone and a good strop does.
But what people really need to learn is how to sharpen a bushcraft knife in the field. It could save their lives, and Japanese water stones, and not much good in the field unless you have a mule. Arkansas stones are far easier to carry and use in the field, but people need to know how to keep a knife sharp without any commercial stone. If you can't pluck a rock from a stream and turn a dull knife into a sharp knife, you aren't ready for a survival situation.
"Razor sharp is also TH-cam, marketing nonsense. No woodsman ever put a razor bevel on his knife, and neither did knife companies until know nothings on TH-cam started demanding such an edge. It's a silly, silly, silly thing to do to a good knife, and unless al you intend to do with your knife is shave hair and perform surgery, it's goes beyond silly and passes dumb.
"Sharp" has nothing to do with whether a knife will shave hair or slice paper. Nothing at all, but TH-cam still teaches that it does, and those who learned from TH-cam actually believe it.
"Sharp" is simply the condition of the edge. Period. An edge with a ten degree bevel per side will shave hair, but it isn't one bit sharper than an edge with a twenty-five degree bevel which will not shave hair. The ten degree bevel simply has more metal behind the edge which prevents the edge from slicing through tiny, unstable thing such as hair.
Both edges will do all the real world cutting you need to do, but the twenty-five degree bevel per side will keep its edge up to five times as long.
There have been standards for bevel degrees since the early twentieth century, and they still work far better than the "sharp as a razor" crowd knives.
Scalpels, Japanese sushi knives, and razors----ten to twelve degrees per side.
Pocketknives----fifteen degrees per side.
Kitchen and food prep knives---seventeen degrees per side.
General, all around use knives, and most belt knives for outdoor use----twenty degrees per side.
Hunting knives intended for large game----twenty-five degrees per side.
Unfortunately, TH-cam has taught people that only the incredibly silly "razor sharp" is a good edge. It isn't good, it's silly, and because of how much easier it dulls, it can be deadly in a survival situation. At the very best, it takes decades off a knife that's used early and often.
The only difference between Arkansas stones and Japanese stones is how fast they sharpen a knife. I find that good Japanese water stones cut a lot of metal, and are effective for sharpening supersteels.
Very helpful - Thank you