1995 Ford F-250 4X4 Power Window Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ย. 2024
- This short video goes over some of the highlights involved in repairing a typical power window problem in Ford vehicles. From at least the 70's until the mid 90's, Ford used variations of the power window motor in this video and over time, they all tend to suffer from the same issue: plastic gear plug failure. These plugs form an intentional weak link in the system and will sacrifice themselves should an obstruction such as someone's hand get in the way. The total cost of repair was $9.46. (9/23/2012)
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I just received 2 new gears and plugs from a seller on Amazon, so due to the Coronavirus thing happening right now I have time tomorrow to repair both window motors in my '95 F-250. Thanks for the tutorial.
what size was the drill bit?
@@hahaharich5643 I used a step drill and I think I drilled it out to 1/2" so my nut driver would fit through. Four months later and still working like new.
Thanks for posting this. I was about to buy a replacement motor and regulator when I found this video while looking for instructions on how to replace both parts. This saved me a lot of time and money.
No problem. Saving money and doing your own repairs is what it's all about. There's nothing like the sense of accomplishment you get from doing your own repairs.
Awesome post. I literally just bought a 95 f150 with this issue on both sides. im sitting here at home 2 hours after buying it, im just browing youtube for fixes that are in this truck. You made me feel better about my purchase lol another easy fix THANKS!
Congrats. on your recent purchase. You'll always have issues with used vehicles but most of the time, you should be able to address them fairly economically.
excellent video, this one and all others. Would have been good to show how to position the plugs, and then tap in with a piece of wood or something. Got it figured out, but thought that thing was never going back together.
I also have a 95 F250, and I am convinced these model trucks shall be, if not already, collector items. There is just sooo many of them still on the road. Keep it sweet!
How is it running?
@@stitchthisditchthat259 quite well actually. thanks for asking. It runs really smooth at idle, installed a new harmonic balancer and it seems to have brought back a little more power. It does not burn oil, and can still lay down a patch
@@mikeyoung6347 around 600 or so at idle? Just got a 95 250 5.8 and have been trying to bring it back w 207k on it..starts around 1000 warms up sits around 600-800 usually but I think the egr valve is stuck open or something I’ve never seen it in the closed position if it would make a difference. Hard not to love these old trucks though
@@stitchthisditchthat259 Ok, seems to be right, but hearing it run can tell more. You can clean and test the egr. there are you tube videos showing how, and replace it. If it has the California smog system on it, you should remove it, it is restrictive and unnecessary. when you replace some parts/sensors you want to choose the black colored ones, not the gray., such as the MAPS, batt./starter relay, ignition coil, and other sensors, or just get OEM from dealer. So many aftermarket parts these days are crap. No matter what happens, it can always be fixed! Finding a non ripped dash pad is not easy, but they're out there. consider adding a RPM gauge to your instrument cluster. Enjoy your rig. it is good money spent. send some pics
Hey thank you!!! This was the only video I had to watch..never would have gotten it done with out it...instead of rubber bushings I just filled the area up with small nuts...works great!!!...keep up the good work, much appreciated...
That’s exactly what I did tonight
plugs are available at oriely and autozone for 7.99. hardest part for me was to squeeze the plugs in. other than that, it's about a 1hr job at most.
good vid... i would have otherwise looked for a gear and reached in with a wrench...but i did contemplate drilling bigger holes in the dimples... and that's what i ended up doing. makes taking the bolts that hold the motor MUCH easier
Great how to video you showed with AWSOME detail on how to job
You just saved another person $ome money! I found this video while looking for a new window motor! Within a few seconds I knew I had the same problem on my 95 F350. Nice job on the video. Now I'm looking forward to tackling the passenger door lock that isn't working...
The plugs fit tight and they will not easily push in. What I did was put them in and then placed a scrap piece of wood on top of the gear and tapped it in with a hammer. 3 or 4 taps and it was back in place. Hope that helps with the fight.
Perfect - thanks!
Simillar story, I did the trans. oil and filter on my F150, now I'm dealing with my cockered window motor. Thanks for posting!
i had the door panel off to switch out the vent window. i shoulda made a vid on that - i couldn't find one. it was fairly easy also. remove door panel, take out screws on the top of door frame, take out bolt holding the vent window frame/window channel. and pull it down a bit.. then take off bolt on bottom of vent window pivot point and top of vent window 'bracket'... then remove and replace. i may take it back apart and do a vid because i might replace the vent window frame
Thanks for the video. This was what was wrong with my truck. It took me about 30 minutes from start to finish. Cost 7.99 for the plugs.
Nice to see a good ford man who gets it.....I gave up my 79 Lincoln Town coupe with a Factory 429 with a 6 Pack.it was custom for the Police Detectives and i happen to get one she was so nice and just like your truck i have a 93 f-350 Dually 346k miles on her and other than a couple of trans pulling trailers of cows shes still original 460 and everyone wants her because she out pulls so much on the market now until you do after market mods. I watched your Video because i have done this likem 8 yrs ago on my ex wifes truck but wanted to get mind refreshed! Keep them Blue Ovals Pretty! COW }:-o)
Thanks for taking the time to create and post the video. I'm off fix my 92 F-350 power windows then auto door locks.
Good luck on your repair. I hope you'll be able to save some money and enjoy working power windows again.
shadowrider460 my window is out of place
great tips forgot about the dimples for the bolt locations.
Excellent video, thanks. My rear windows on my 97' crew cab are the ones acting up, fronts still work fine (go figure they're the ones used most). The dimples are the best tip where to drill out for motor bolt access!
This guy is a genius. He saved me $80 for a motor and $75 for labor. I got my $8 part and installed them myself in under 90 min's.
How many people just watched the crack head destroy that door before this video ??
something else i did mistakenly... i used a drill to remove the switch plate for windows/locks and ended up breaking the tab off that holds it in.... best to use a screwdriver for that one screw.
Great vid, exactly what I needed to fix both windows on my 94 F250.
The motor cover does not lift off that easily. You have to pry away the metal dimples where it is pressed on to the body
Thanks for the video, my truck had same issue. Easy fix for a few dollars
Thanks, Mine is doing the same thing.
Napa part#665-1524
The NAPA website has them for $300. I don't get it.
thank you for this amazing video ! super useful and instructional.
thanks again !
great video! but I'm having trouble getting the plugs into the motor, I've tried forcing them in but they are just too big, is there a way to take the gear on top off and just drop the plugs in?
Yes. You can pull the lobed gear out and drop the plugs in. Then you can press the lobed gear back in place. It's a tight fit, but can be done.
Thank You, Shadowrider460. You helped me solve my problem. Thanks Again, and keep up the Good Work.....It is much appreciated
I can't find the plugs. Anyone know where I can get some?
Awesome videos Ty
Perfect, and thanks for your help.
My windows do the same thing. So do my power seats, thinking it could be the same problem
Thanks for the great video!!!!
and i have/used a tool set exactly like yours!!
A real mans typical set of drill bits, missing a ton of them. Hahah I have the same problem.
Usually not missing, per se, but broken.
oh,yeah,a classic down the road... it's a damn pickup!
hey bud great advise I've got a 95 with the same issue but I was curious where you got the window regulator plugs at
You can use ball bearings insted.
what type of metal protector did you use for the drill holes? or would it be better to spray paint it?
.....because it has chips out from whoever that broke it prying at it breaking the window...
great video but how did you get the plugs in bc I'm having trouble with putting the gear back on
The plugs drop in if you take the lobed gear off...haha.
Hey nice video! i am trying to fix my slow window on a 1991 buick lesabre custom. the passenger window goes down but it stops eventually yiou have to wait then again repeat it does not go up at all makes a small weak motor noise then stops completely the driver side was ok now itys starting to work slower when going up im worried it will end up liek the passenger side window. andy advice on hwo to fix it? i heard you can sotter resisters to help it power up more??
A friend of mine had the same issue with his 1991 Chevrolet S-10. You'll likely need to replace the power window motor to repair it properly. There's a video on my channel of us replacing his power window motor that should help you replace yours. His window had the exact symptoms as yours did.
Would this also be the problem to windows rolling up and down slowly, I have a 1994 F-350 and the windows take forever to roll up, but in my 1995 F-250 they roll up quick just like yours. Would this be a sign of the plugs going bad.
It’s possible. To test the plugs, partially lower the window and then use your hands to try to lift the window up and down. If you feel excessive play (1/2” or more), then the gear plugs are worn and should be replaced before they fail completely.
If the window feels pretty tight, then check to make sure you have a full 12V going to the motor. If not, you could have a failing window switch or high resistance in the wiring.
If you have 12V, then there could be a mechanical issue within the motor or the sector gear on the regulator. The later can be fixed by lubricating the mechanism liberally with chassis grease or white lithium grease. The original grease dries out over time and can cause the window regulator to bind. This is especially true if your dew wipes are letting water drip down into the door when it rains.
but seriously,thank you for the tutorial!
What size drill but did you use?
how do you remove the snap ring
Passenger Window drive replacent 1997 f250 4 wheele drive
Mercedes windows sucks
Genius! Haha