Great Video! I'm not sure why anyone would complain that you talk to much, this operation requires exactly the information that you shared. Well put together video! I just wish you would have dug in a little farther. I was hoping to get a look at the seals behind there. I am glad I got a look at the one seal.
Excellent job my friend i had my automatic hubs not working for a long time till i saw your video got my manual hubs from junk yard and im back in business thank you again
To pack bearings, I scoop up some grease in a zip-lock bag, drop the cleaned bearing into it, close the baggie, and squeeze - the grease gets into all the bearings cavities w/out dirtying up my hands. Done, throw the baggie away. Another thing Ive done for difficult to remove bearings is use a large livestock syringe & a long 16g needle to inject grease into tye nooks & crannies. Works well using the syringe needle point to pop open the small edge on sealed pulley bearings.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I'd like to see the naysayers' videos. I will be doing this type of work soon and seeing someone do it first hand is always worth a thousand words. Thank you again
Nice vid. I had done this years ago, changing factory auto hubs with Warn manuals. I had forgotten about the parts that had to be changed. Tearing down now for new bearings, etc. and this was a good reminder of what was inside. As to the front LSDs, I believe manufacturers stayed away from that because of difficulty with steering - the outer wheel needs to turn faster than the inner. In its place, I believe the makers like Quaife and Torsen came along and solved that problem with a redesign.
(replying to self) I also believe that the failure of my auto hubs was due to a grease hardening problem, rather than any mechanical breakdown. Don't know. Never looked back
Great video! putting on Hawk Pads and new rotors. While I'm at it, converting from auto to manual hubs. your video showed me everything I need to know. Now I have much more confidence in tackling this.
I think that the inside snap ring that you removed goes in the groove on the end of the axel. You might have to use a pry bar to shove the axel from the knuckle behind the wheel and assembly.
You should have re-installed that inner snap ring on the outer groove on the stub shaft closest to the end to keep it pulled against the seal on the back side of the knuckle. Without it your entire axle shaft can pull away from the seal and allow contaminants to get into the spindle bearings and then deeper into the hub assembly.
Very good video and details. Thank you!! I am currently thinking to do the same thing on my 1995.5 (F250). One question that I have for you, what is the make and part number on that large hex socket at recording time 4:50?
thanks man i have a 94 f150 with a 302 auto locking hubs and it is sliping i mite have to get a new hub asebly but definitely going to manual locking hubs
Great video and very descriptive , thanks a bunch . Pretty cool how they will work with a Dana 50 as well , but can anyone tell me the difference between a Dana 50 and 60 . Cheers ?
Another great tutorial, thanks. One question if I get rid of the autolocking hubs , then I do not have to use the manual lever anymore to put in 4 wheel drive? Mine actually has a high and low 4 wd floor shift.
Very good video. I just bought a "96 F250 with the 7.3. Do you think all will be the same as the '95? It has 145k on it and it's probably time to pack the bearings.
Mine is a 95 with 460 that has 354000 plus on it. My automatic lockouts and calipers and rotors are currently failed. Guess I pull the e4od and put it in the 94 standard body with 7.3 international. So much for having a super cab
Tracy Hill Mine is a heavy duty 94 super cab with 7.3 International diesel (18 mpg on hiway)), with autolocking hubs, and newly rebuilt E40d trans. Changing to manual hubs. Needed to watch this video!
Getting ready to work on a 95 f150 with man. locking hubs. the complaint is that their is a grinding noise wile in 4 wheel drive. I will not need any kits since they are manual locking already. I will insist on checking bearings at the same time. (hate doing things twice). is there anything I may need to know that you did not cover in your video. Thanks.
Great vid!! I have the 3 bolt auto hub on my 95 bronco. I'm having issues locating the correct hub socket. Could you tell me what size it was and where you got it?
The Bronco should have a Dana 44 so most auto parts stores should have the right tool. Ask for a hub lock socket. They're not cheap, but there's nothing like having the right tool for the job.
I have a 1994 f350 351w 5.8l with manual locking hubs. Does anyone know the torque spec of the piece that requires the spindle socket? My first time doing rotors on this beast. Any videos on how to pull apart and put the manual hub back together would be appreciated
That was a spindle nut socket. I found it at NAPA. It wasn't cheap, but it sure did the job pretty well. You'll want the Dana 60 version instead of the Dana 44.
So far, these hubs have been holding up quite well. I don't go off road too much so I'd consider my use to be on the light side. If they do fail, I may switch to Warn and see if they last longer.
What did you do you with your push button mechanism on your dash once you put the manual hubs in? Do you need a lever on the floor board to engage the conversion hubs?
My truck didn't have the push button feature. The automatic hubs engaged when the front drive axle would turn. They were very basic and strictly mechanical. They also were known for their high failure rate. The new manual hubs are working great.
Great Video! I'm not sure why anyone would complain that you talk to much, this operation requires exactly the information that you shared. Well put together video! I just wish you would have dug in a little farther. I was hoping to get a look at the seals behind there. I am glad I got a look at the one seal.
Excellent job my friend i had my automatic hubs not working for a long time till i saw your video got my manual hubs from junk yard and im back in business thank you again
glad you went ahead and showed the process of packing the bearings and replacing the seal. I'll be working on my 95's hubs this weekend
To pack bearings, I scoop up some grease in a zip-lock bag, drop the cleaned bearing into it, close the baggie, and squeeze - the grease gets into all the bearings cavities w/out dirtying up my hands. Done, throw the baggie away. Another thing Ive done for difficult to remove bearings is use a large livestock syringe & a long 16g needle to inject grease into tye nooks & crannies. Works well using the syringe needle point to pop open the small edge on sealed pulley bearings.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I'd like to see the naysayers' videos. I will be doing this type of work soon and seeing someone do it first hand is always worth a thousand words. Thank you again
Nice vid. I had done this years ago, changing factory auto hubs with Warn manuals. I had forgotten about the parts that had to be changed. Tearing down now for new bearings, etc. and this was a good reminder of what was inside. As to the front LSDs, I believe manufacturers stayed away from that because of difficulty with steering - the outer wheel needs to turn faster than the inner. In its place, I believe the makers like Quaife and Torsen came along and solved that problem with a redesign.
(replying to self) I also believe that the failure of my auto hubs was due to a grease hardening problem, rather than any mechanical breakdown. Don't know. Never looked back
Great video! putting on Hawk Pads and new rotors. While I'm at it, converting from auto to manual hubs. your video showed me everything I need to know. Now I have much more confidence in tackling this.
I think that the inside snap ring that you removed goes in the groove on the end of the axel. You might have to use a pry bar to shove the axel from the knuckle behind the wheel and assembly.
Thank you, I needed this.
This video was great and answered all my questions. Thanks much!
Good video and as always clear and well explained procedures. Now polish those poor wheels!! Haha. Truck is looking good.
I definitely want to when the weather gets warmer. It was freezing and windy out when I made this video! I hope they will polish up nicely.
You should have re-installed that inner snap ring on the outer groove on the stub shaft closest to the end to keep it pulled against the seal on the back side of the knuckle. Without it your entire axle shaft can pull away from the seal and allow contaminants to get into the spindle bearings and then deeper into the hub assembly.
It wasn't on there When he started. Probably why water was in his hubs.
Thanks for making this video!
Very good video and details. Thank you!! I am currently thinking to do the same thing on my 1995.5 (F250). One question that I have for you, what is the make and part number on that large hex socket at recording time 4:50?
thanks man i have a 94 f150 with a 302 auto locking hubs and it is sliping i mite have to get a new hub asebly but definitely going to manual locking hubs
Use the right grease for the right application.
What size are the sockets both sockets I need a number
Great video and very descriptive , thanks a bunch . Pretty cool how they will work with a Dana 50 as well , but can anyone tell me the difference between a Dana 50 and 60 . Cheers ?
good vid thanks
Another great tutorial, thanks. One question if I get rid of the autolocking hubs , then I do not have to use the manual lever anymore to put in 4 wheel drive? Mine actually has a high and low 4 wd floor shift.
muy bueno !!!
where can I buy the large socket?
Very good video. I just bought a "96 F250 with the 7.3. Do you think all will be the same as the '95? It has 145k on it and it's probably time to pack the bearings.
It should be if it's got the Dana 50 IFS.
Great video shadow, I've never cared for the "automatic" hubs. That's a nice 3/4 ton Ford. Is that a '95?
Yes. It's a '95 4X4 with the 351 Windsor V-8. The new Mile Marker 449SS manual hubs are working great!
Mine is a 95 with 460 that has 354000 plus on it. My automatic lockouts and calipers and rotors are currently failed. Guess I pull the e4od and put it in the 94 standard body with 7.3 international. So much for having a super cab
Tracy Hill Mine is a heavy duty 94 super cab with 7.3 International diesel (18 mpg on hiway)), with autolocking hubs, and newly rebuilt E40d trans. Changing to manual hubs. Needed to watch this video!
Getting ready to work on a 95 f150 with man. locking hubs. the complaint is that their is a grinding noise wile in 4 wheel drive. I will not need any kits since they are manual locking already. I will insist on checking bearings at the same time. (hate doing things twice). is there anything I may need to know that you did not cover in your video. Thanks.
Timothy Grasmick how did it go....my 95 F-150 is doing the same.... making noise.....what was causing the nosie???
Because one of mine broke so I want to convert them and I have the exact same setip
The schematics show a thrust washer, where does that go?
Can you give details on the conversion kit you bought? From what I can find it's a separate purchase from the hubs correct?
Any info on the retaining clip removal mines stuck....please help lol
Great vid!! I have the 3 bolt auto hub on my 95 bronco. I'm having issues locating the correct hub socket. Could you tell me what size it was and where you got it?
The Bronco should have a Dana 44 so most auto parts stores should have the right tool. Ask for a hub lock socket. They're not cheap, but there's nothing like having the right tool for the job.
Wasn't there a c clamp and a couple of thrust washers on yours before you could pull off the rotor?
On the 4x4 auto when it goes out will that front shaft still turn weather its on or off? Or if it works will it turn or will it be locked?
I have a 1994 f350 351w 5.8l with manual locking hubs. Does anyone know the torque spec of the piece that requires the spindle socket? My first time doing rotors on this beast. Any videos on how to pull apart and put the manual hub back together would be appreciated
U never use chasis grease for bearing grease. Use bearing grease read up on your applications first before useing cheap grease for bearing grease.
U want to use HI TEMP BEARING GREASE THE RED GREASE.ONLY. OR YOU WILL FRY YOUR BEARING AND WEILD THEM TO THE INNER HUB.
when you put the manual hub in did you put the cam assembly back in?
So when u change those hubs to Manuel do u still need the old lock pin that word c clamp thing?
What is the name of the special tool that you used to get the spindle nut off. I am having difficulty finding the hexagon nut to remove it on my truck
That was a spindle nut socket. I found it at NAPA. It wasn't cheap, but it sure did the job pretty well. You'll want the Dana 60 version instead of the Dana 44.
I have some play in the 6 to 12 o'clock direction on the passenger side of my '97. Any ideas if replacing the inner and/or outer bearings would help?
I would clean and repack the bearings and then adjust them first. Most likely, they're simply out of adjustment and don't need replacement.
We put the same hubs on a work truck was in 3 months they blew up I would get warn
So far, these hubs have been holding up quite well. I don't go off road too much so I'd consider my use to be on the light side. If they do fail, I may switch to Warn and see if they last longer.
That tool you used to get the seal out, what is that???
What was the failure on the auto hubs?
What did you do you with your push button mechanism on your dash once you put the manual hubs in? Do you need a lever on the floor board to engage the conversion hubs?
My truck didn't have the push button feature. The automatic hubs engaged when the front drive axle would turn. They were very basic and strictly mechanical. They also were known for their high failure rate. The new manual hubs are working great.
You think this would be pretty much the same on my 92 ranger?
Same concept, but the ranger is going to have smaller axles therefore different size than this fellas video.
I have a 97 f250 7.3 and have the same front axle and 3 screw hub cap. What is the size of the socket to remove the nut?
It doesn't have a size specifically. It was a model 7796 from OTC tools.
***** thank you!
My didn't have a lock ring, on either side, oh well.
+Neil isme Instead it had a washer with teeth and another snap ring
Go to napa auto parts and invest in a seal puller for 10.00 .
Good video just to much B.S.
sterling axles are trash anyways lol
I think you are skipping the steps I needed
you talk a little too much
You should probably mute it then
can you do this truck without using conversion kit ?
Do you know part number on the big socket for the automatic hub