Watched all three. Great information. It's nice to see someone with your knowledge and experience giving back to us new guys. I see you learned a lot from your dad. I am sure he was a great man because he turned out a good son. Thanks again.
Very informative and laid back. Thankyou. I have a question on concrete slabs. The slab size needs to be 5ft x6ft . It's going to be a driveway extension. What material should I use ie pea gravel? Etc. Do I need to add rebar ? Research says 4in of gravel and 4in of concrete. Thank you .Gene
Mike; thanks for all the info you provide from your videos. I was able to repair my stone stairs at the front of my house. Your video's gave me the confidence to even attempt them. they turned out great, love being able to repair myself wherever possible. Thanks again
Just discovered these....im learning loads from them and he makes me feel confident about doing it myself like its no big deal. He explains it real good and makes me feel masonry is for everyone and not just some fancy thing for pros thats not accessible to non pros.
Thanks for these great videos! I grew up in the Scranton area so listening to you makes me feel like home! I like learning to do a lot of things around the house on my own and your instruction gives me the confidence to give it a shot with stone work. I'm sure it will take me 3 times as long as a professional, but the satisfaction of completing a project is great
Hi mike, being a total novice when i started out i have been taking your advise and skills for the past 7 years and learnt a hell of a lot from your videos and built some very nice projects. Living in Nottingham, England i can now appreciate the beautiful old buildings that still look like they did when they was first built. Any way thanks for sharing your skills, your videos are a great confidence booster before tackling jobs! keep up the great videos. good on you Mike!
Just wanted to say thank you for your videos Mike! I have done masonry for about two and a half years and am beginning the steps to start a business along side my cousin! Even with experience your videos help and give great guidance. Thank again!
Mike, this was probably the most useful 40 minutes of staring at the computer that I've done in months. I am a high school teacher and I have to say, you are a fabulous teacher - I would love to have you come in and lecture to my Chemistry class about this stuff - I really enjoyed the history lesson in Video #2. You have really engendered in me a sense of confidence in my going forward with this stage of our diy house-building project - I'm in charge of building the piers and I'm practicing by building bottle walls. Your reaffirmation that there is no ONE RIGHT WAY to do masonry, but that there's a historical precedence, reminds me of when I embarked on cheesemaking, which is also has a thousand regional methods, and few ingredients. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE THESE VIDEOS, and educate the public about this stuff. I am feeling much more empowered and confident. And yes, I am grouting the piers. :) Thank you!
I’m retired and am just beginning to repoint my 150 year old Pennsylvannia banked barn in Berks County PA. After watching several of Mike's videos I feel much more confident in doing this myself. I’ll try to keep you posted on progress.
Larry, repoint your stone barn with a high lime mortar (type O or K). Unlike brick and sedimentary 'soft' rocks, your PA stone (metamorphic and igneous) is not water permeable, so your mortar needs to be or will trap moisture and crack away over the years or worse will migrate towards the interior. Pure lime mortar will allow for water to escape and it is flexible. If applied to a clean surface, proper re-tamping strategy and keeping it damp during the cure, it should last a long time. Lime is how they built it and is the best choice for stone house/barn restorations. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise!
And I agree on that with you, there are tons of products and anyway we have to do most of the works every year so why we don’t try them all on different situations and if the work and last, then we know we could use them again on that particular scenario.Thank you again Mike for this great lecture.👏
I always get something out of your videos. New knowledge, appreciation that you’re willing to share your knowledge, a new way way I look at the everyday buildings, walls etc. The courage to attempt somethings myself. Thanks again!!
Mike, I'm extremely grateful for your videos. I've always have been curious about cement and have studied lots of books and videos. I've learned more in watching a few of your videos than everything else combined. You're the best. Now if I lived in Philly I'd buy you a steak sub.
Hi Mike, Thanks so much for doing all of these great videos! I think I have watched about 75% of them already, trying to get ready to do my first 3 repair jobs: crumbled brick steps, a concrete porch foundation with a big hole in it, and crumbled concrete steps. Would you ever consider doing a video on a) the tools you most commonly use, b) how to clean up (the site, your tools, clothes, etc.) and c) safety tips (eye protection, dust masks, etc.)? Thank you again - I have learned so much already. Looking forward to trying some practice runs!
Mike You do a bloody good job You are practical & share common sense with facts and experience ( Will you Catch on ) From a same age group and a ex R ,Navy Have put your lessons to good use Rock on Sailor Regards and salutations from NZ
i appreciate that the guy is a home depot guy! the CTS rapid set products are amazing they are also hydraulic and can be used to solve many problems including marine applications. the grout (cement all) can be used for everything as long as depth is under 4" from counter tops to filling holes to bonding materials. masonry cement contains portland cement and hydrated lime all you need to add is sand to make type s. always make sure that the compressive strength of a concrete/mortar mix is going to be strong enough for the job. mortars-type s above and below grade, type n above grade, type m strongest mortar, type o is above grade repair non load bearing it has the lowest compressive strength. thank you mike for explaining different mixes and there mixture contents. concrete can be a daunting task to many DIYers but it shouldn't be unless volume of product is the issue.
Mike, It's interior, I will not wet the cellar floor, I'll remove the splattered cement with a chisel, and I'll look into the white dry lock paint. Once again thank you for all your expertise and words of encouragement. When I get finished I'll shot you a before and after picture. Thank you, Ed Lynch
Mike thank you so much for your video's. I think that I am almost as confused as your book but at least I know more than I did. Hopefully by the time that I am done watching your video's I can do my basement bathroom project.
I always ask questions sales person about cement because I don’t like buying things to mix items buy this buy that again I just want to buy cement just add water and do the work ,, thank you showing me about the brand cement 👌👌👌
sparkylights, type-s mortar means it's made with portland cement. Mortar has types N, S or M and the letters represent the mortar strength (psi). Type N is weakest for stone veneer, S can support a load like a retaining wall. Type M is even stronger than S. You don't want Mortar too strong because its strength is supposed to be compatible with the brick strength. When making Mortar lots of recipes call for adding Hydrated Lime to make it more workable and water proof. Not to be confusing but Lime also comes in type-S and N. The letter on lime indicates the procedure how the lime was hydrated. Type-S Lime means it was hydrated in a pressure chamber to ensure there is less than 8% unhydrated oxides in the lime. Unhydrated oxides will chemically burn your skin. Type-N lime doesn't use a pressure hydrator and there isn't a specified limit to the amount of unhydrated oxides in the lime.
Great videos. I m a beginner, learn alot from u Mike. You go strait to the point when u do things no BS. Thanks and BTW you should have much more subscribers
Thank you for your videos. I happened to receive 50lb type s lime. ( free ) . I know I can use this to white washer cinder blocks, besides that what other uses can I use? Making my mortar mix white for river rock pillar ?
Hi Mike, Hope all is well with you . Its Ed Lynch from Philly via Shamokin about my 1863 brick row house in Philly. I finally finish the cellar walls, what a tedious job, much of the foundation was 3-4 inches of red clay and sand between the stone. Surprisingly much of the stone came from our anthracite coal region cause it was tipped and edge with coal. I used a chisel and several wire brushes,I wet it with the hose and packed it with portland cement " 1 bucket of cement and 2 buckets of sand" packed cement in every area and all around the joists as you said and smooth it as good as I could with rags. It looks pretty good. (1) My question is that some of the cement splattered on the floor not thick amounts even though I put thick cardboard around. I bought a floor scrapper and its rough scrapping it up. I wanted to know if I sprayed small areas of the floor with water would it make it easier to scrape it up? or would that make the issue worst? (2) I'm getting ready to make the white wash, I'm using water lime, salt and small amounts of sand. Must I wet the walls first before I begin painting the whitewash on? Thanks for all your advise and knowledge. Peace Ed Lynch
HI Ed, I would think wetting the sidewalk would make it worse, it is soft for a few days then gets hard as hell, a chisel might do it, I do not add salt at all, and before you white wash it consider a white dry lock paint if it is inside, I think it is better, Peace also thanks mike
I have an old soft brick chimney, mortar is fine but each year more of the brick surface chips off during the winter when it freezes. After 50 years it's looking rough and I'm replacing the roof with a standing seam metal roof ( aka hidden fasteners) Your videos gave me the courage and confidence to veneer the chimney with stone. My biggest concern was getting the mortar mix right and getting it to hold. I've watched your 7 part series on installing stone veneer and also your 8 part on stick on stone installation and use it as a reference when I get stuck. I'm putting a scratch coat over the brick and then stone on that. For a Wisconsin winter should the base coat use type S mortar alone alone or should I add some portland cement to it. Also do you explain in any videos how you flash a stone chimney especial a veneer stick on stone job. Thank you for providing such clear instructions. The manufacturers seem to leave out important steps for DIYers like wetting the wall first. My nightmare would be seeing stone piece on the ground 3 years after I finish this job because water got in behind it and frost popped them off..
Hi Jim, you could go straight portland or go half s mortar and half portland with sand, then when you are finished I would give it a sealer, that concrete sealer, quikrete I hope it helps thanks mike
Mike Haduck LOL you created more questions. Is this for the scratch coat and sticking the stone on? To clarify, why The Portland cement alone Vs the the " type S - portland - sand" mix (how much of each 1-1-1)and can both go go on straight for both the scratch coat and attaching the stone and the mortar joints? I assume the wet mix is just past dry like smooth peanut butter. When complete the roof will be steel and it will be difficult to access the chimney for maintenance so the concrete sealer is the last step before I take the scaffold of the 10/12 roof and cover it with steel, correct? Will the sealer have to be repeated?
Hi Jim, just check out the videos "How I install stone veneer" 6 parts, all th techniques I use are there, and then if I use a sealer It would be the very last step before I take the scaffold down, then check it every year for sure, I hope it helps, thanks mike
Thanks a lot for the videos! These are awesome. I cut a hole in my foundation to sneak in a glulam girder, and you're videos are helping me button things up :)
I like when you use the Old school method KISS - keep it simple stupid and the don’t fix it if its not broke - super good job on your video’s Mike always thumbs
Hey Mike I’m here in California just started out being a tender for a masonry company about 6 months ago I’ve been learning a lot and still trying to get all the basics down but I hope to study your videos and eventually build a lot of things in the future with the knowledge you share thanks for inspiring me, my uncle is building out of Adobe in Arizona and I’m hoping I can use this knowledge and apply it to the Adobe and make some really cool walls and buildings with some nice stone work to go along with it if there’s any way to contact you I would like to talk sometime thanks again
Hi BG, I appreciate it, I never met a rich mason but there are a lot of things it leads too, in all labor there is profit, i will be glad if my videos help, thanks Mike
Great vids mike!!! The cement all quick drying products have a compound called luminite in them. That is the compound the shortens the drying time. Watch Kirk Giordano's stucco on TH-cam, he has a lot of vids on luminite and stucco. He takes a lot of pride in his work and is an excellent teacher like you. Keep up the great vids!!! They are extremely helpful, especially to a carpenter like me who is trying to understand more about all the different trades.
I think in most cases pre-cast concrete is better, like my superior wall video, and it has been heading that way for a while, I am doing a block job now and will keep that in mind when I comment, thanks mike
Mike, up in your part of the country, by any chance do you know Porter Soley from Mississippi. I took three semesters of masonry at Pearl River Community College. I’ve tried every mix of cement, sand, lime and finally to keep things simple I use type S mortar mix. I have used type N masonry cement with three parts of sand. I have a ton of old brick down here in Mississippi.
So a French masonry guy installed my slate walkway (over a concrete slab) and slate stair treads (over brick risers). During the first winter after installation the treads popped loose and the slate on the walkway became loose and the mortar between the rectangular pieces of slate are broken and coming up. He came back after I complained and used Liquid Nails to put the treads back in place. They popped loose again. Years later, after removing all of the popped treads, for safety reasons, I am now using a grinder to remove the original layer of mortar/cement/whatever Frenchie used to cement the treads in place and I'm getting ready to put the treads back in place. (The walkway will have to wait until next year). Should I use Portland + Sand or the premixed deal?? These treads HAVE to stick because I'm getting too old to be a DIY-er. Your expertise would be great!
Mike I'm really enjoying your videos. Very well done and educational. We just bought a brick veneer house that was build in the 1940s and needs repointed in a few areas. Pulled out a few chunks of mortar and is pretty white which makes me think it might be lime mortar or at least contains lime. I'm trying to figure out how to match the color but maximize longevity. Any suggestions? White Portland? Located in the midwest
Ever since I started working for myself back in the 90s, I've always stuck with the thought processes of, do it like grandpa did, because those things are still around.
Mike thanks for the info. I have a brick veneer I'm re-pointing and the existing mortar is very white. It is about 25 yrs old. Looks like it has little or no sand in it? Any idea what the mortar might be?
Hi Andy it sounds like white mortar and white silica sand, usually you can get it at brick or stucco yards, you might even be able to use a white stucco mix they sell at Lowe’s, thanks mike
Mike, i have a small wood stove in the Corner of my shop that sits caddy corner and I wanted to put rock on the to walls in the Corner. it will be 4' x 9' on each wall. what steps should I take, do I put up hardy board first? walls are just studs with insulation between them. also want to make a 5'×5' rock pad to put under my stove. right now it is on concrete floor. how should I tackle this project. I've put pallet wood on walls and adding vinyl plank flooring, doing a rustic themed man cave in back half off my shop. 10'x19'.
Thanks so much for your videos Mike! They're truly a gift for people like me who trying to do they're own repair projects. I'm repairing some deep textured stucco on my house. I've been practicing with premixed Portland and doing very well matching the existing stucco design, but I don't want to paint it unless I absolutely have to. The newer cement is lighter in color than the old. Would it work to make a loose Portland "paint" mix and brush on a finish coat to blend the old and new cement tones? Looking for an opinion I can trust. Thoughts Mike?
Hi Lori, I did a ,video called, "painting with portland, whitewash, bonding, Mike Haduck. I think that will answer most of your questions, it is a cheap alternative, I hope it helps , thanks mike
Mike Haduck Hi Mike, thanks for replying. I watched the suggested video, as well as several others. I just realized that what I thought was a portland mix is actually a professional grade mortar mix (for hi strength structural repair) allowing stucco repair up to 6" thick. Will this be okay to continue using for repair and a "paint" coat...or should I stop and switch to actual Portland cement for the whole job? Lori
Hi Lori, I can not tell anyone what to do over the internet, because every situation is different, and I am not there to see it. so I only show what I did and hope folks can pick up on it and use it for food for thought, stucco is usually not a big issue, I hope it helps, thanks mike
Mike Haduck Hi Mike, I understand completely how hard it would be to advise on a project via the Internet, without hands-on involvement. I'm off to a great start...so I'll keep moving forward. I appreciate your feedback very much. Thanks again for your terrific videos! Lori
Mike, I have a four foot tall front concrete porch, it has started cracking up and falling apart, I live in Judsonia Arkansas.. what type cement should I use to bond it back together ?
Appreciate the info, well laid out. Got a kick out of the ASTM jargon. I was looking at that on the type "N" mortar mix bag of "Quickcrete" and wondered what kind of college degree one would need to understand that mess LOL.
@@MikeHaduck do you have any videos on the difference of latex or acrylic fortifiers s bonding agents for pointing? What is your thoughts on them? Appreciate your knowledge.
Hi Mr Rain, I rarely use them, the old timers would mix up a Portland paint which I use mostly, and never had a problem,,but maybe I will add some to a slurry when resurfacing a sidewalk or driveway, thanks mike
Mike i dont know if youl see this , is it acceptable to correct to slope of pavement using a thin layer of concrete with adhesive with a roughed up surface?, they got the level wrong years ago so im going to give it a go.
Mike a good rule of thumb is the mortar, (and I define mortar as a mixture of ordinary Portland cement ,sand and lime ,Or if lime is not being used a liquid plasticiser.) should always be weaker than the unit your laying, be it a clay brick a concrete block or what ever. Irish cement Ltd has 6 easy to follow advisory leaflet,s on there website that covers all this stuff . Its very interesting reading .
Mike, is it okay to use a modern mortar mix to repoint a 100 year old house in a northern climate, or is it too hard? If it is too hard what should I use? Great videos, many thanks.
+Ross Henderson it is impossible to answer unless I seen it. but I have some videos, how I repoint a old stone wall. maybe they should help, thanks mike
Thank you. Very well delivered and understandable. I am female 72 yrs in Phoenix Arizona. I want to build my own wall.66 ft long. . What's the cheapest way for me as a newby. .
Doubtful you will reply but if anyone can answer that is awesome too, I was wanting to build a small smoke house/cooking house out in our backyard out of slat rock because it is so commonly available where I live. Is this option and can I just use some portland cement as I got a bunch of bags laying around or do I have to go buy some Mansonry cement?
+LilFluffBall you have to be careful with using stone in fire pits etc, If the stone has water in it it could explode, I have seen it happen,,, I only use Portland personally, everybody got their own opinion, I hope it helps, mike
Thanks Mike , This Explains a lot , Im just not sure I can get the S mortar to stand 18 foot 3-7 inch thick 2 inch wide up the stone wall , But I will give it my best shot.
I used rapid set repair mortar. It can be applied vertically. Only bad thing is that it dries fast; set control helps. Stucco mix can work also. Practice to make sure what you are using will stay in place on a vertical surface as it is tricky and if you use the wrong stuff, it is an awful time.
@@matthewjamison1193 Thanks I use to mix sand Mortar cement in the 1980s for block . Fixing my home Chimney they did it all wrong the hole for the firebox is larger than the stone rain comes in around the chimney no flashing or weather strip i plan to flash the wall and go up to the eve with mortar over lap the flashing and redo the siding up to the mortar . i know in temps over 80 mortar will get hard in 10 minutes i did basement windows and the chimney cricket used mortar to make the field stone flush 6 inch thick in some area .
I'm working on a project that calls for a plaster made from 5 perlite 1 sand 1 lime 1 portland and 1 washed sand? Not sure what is meant by washed sand. Can you use mason sand in plaster?
Hi Donny, I usually go to a landscape or brick supply yard and get regular mason sand, but play sand is very close and I use it in a pinch or just buy the premix, everything depends on the job, thanks, mike
@@MikeHaduck thanks for the responce. I will have to look for my local supply yard ... home depot didnt have hydrated lime when I asked they told me to use quikrete mason mix type s ...have you ever used this stuff, if so what are your thoughts? ... it seems to be a 1:2:9 mix ... the guy didnt even ask me what type of brick/stone I was using and that frightens me . Thanks Donny
I already texted my buddy who introduced me to your channel, the situation with the bricks on steps here in PA. By the way in that same scenario, could you explain me how houses like mine made with bricks don’t fall apart as you mentioned on the steps’ case?
Steps lay flat and water stands longer and soaks into the brick c cuz brick is sponge like. Walls are upright and water doesn't stay on long enough for that much water to soak in. Wet bricks in steps then freeze and crumble cuz freezing water expands and breaks anything that tries to stop it.
Hi Expat, I would have gone that direction if I had do do it over, masonry everybody tries to stop you and the weather kills you, my opinion, thanks mike
Mike, just can't get my head around what the difference is between cement and concrete.. Love your videos... you really really help us. .. thanks so much for doing these videos. :))
Hi Colleen, I would say, cement and concrete could be considered the same, like a violin or fiddle, concrete has small rocks added to it and uses portland cement, while basic cement has lime in it and is easier to use for brick an block, everyone will say different, I hope it helps, mike
I think John woolfrey down below in the comments got the best answer. personally I just call it a general purpose cement. middle of the road, not on sidewalks or driveways though. my opinion thanks. mike
I saw a video that said dirt bricks can last a long long long long long long long long long time more than 20 years even into the hundreds they do add a little bit of lime and probably a little bit of Portland do you know anything about that?
Watched all three. Great information. It's nice to see someone with your knowledge and experience giving back to us new guys. I see you learned a lot from your dad. I am sure he was a great man because he turned out a good son. Thanks again.
jimships He says I am still a hippie. but yea I learned a lot from him and I still ask his opinion, thanks, mike
Very informative and laid back. Thankyou. I have a question on concrete slabs. The slab size needs to be 5ft x6ft . It's going to be a driveway extension. What material should I use ie pea
gravel? Etc. Do I need to add rebar ? Research says 4in of gravel and 4in of concrete. Thank you .Gene
Mike; thanks for all the info you provide from your videos. I was able to repair my stone stairs at the front of my house. Your video's gave me the confidence to even attempt them. they turned out great, love being able to repair myself wherever possible. Thanks again
Thanks Bill, I appreciate it, mike
Just discovered these....im learning loads from them and he makes me feel confident about doing it myself like its no big deal. He explains it real good and makes me feel masonry is for everyone and not just some fancy thing for pros thats not accessible to non pros.
Thanks Chris, Mike
Thanks for these great videos! I grew up in the Scranton area so listening to you makes me feel like home! I like learning to do a lot of things around the house on my own and your instruction gives me the confidence to give it a shot with stone work. I'm sure it will take me 3 times as long as a professional, but the satisfaction of completing a project is great
Thanks Daniel, someone understands my lingo. lol, I appreciate it.and wish you well , thanks mike
After years in the trade is STILL refer back to this video. Thank you Mr. Haduck for an old school perspective to a new school of thought.
Thanks Vik, it means I am on the right track, thanks, mike
Hi mike, being a total novice when i started out i have been taking your advise and skills for the past 7 years and learnt a hell of a lot from your videos and built some very nice projects. Living in Nottingham, England i can now appreciate the beautiful old buildings that still look like they did when they was first built. Any way thanks for sharing your skills, your videos are a great confidence booster before tackling jobs! keep up the great videos. good on you Mike!
Thanks Mike, I appreciate hearing that especially from England, that is where most of the masons are from, mike
Just wanted to say thank you for your videos Mike! I have done masonry for about two and a half years and am beginning the steps to start a business along side my cousin! Even with experience your videos help and give great guidance. Thank again!
thanks Brandon, I never met a rich mason and would also dabble in other things, but it is a craft to know for sure, I appreciate it. mike
Mike, this was probably the most useful 40 minutes of staring at the computer that I've done in months. I am a high school teacher and I have to say, you are a fabulous teacher - I would love to have you come in and lecture to my Chemistry class about this stuff - I really enjoyed the history lesson in Video #2. You have really engendered in me a sense of confidence in my going forward with this stage of our diy house-building project - I'm in charge of building the piers and I'm practicing by building bottle walls. Your reaffirmation that there is no ONE RIGHT WAY to do masonry, but that there's a historical precedence, reminds me of when I embarked on cheesemaking, which is also has a thousand regional methods, and few ingredients. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE THESE VIDEOS, and educate the public about this stuff. I am feeling much more empowered and confident. And yes, I am grouting the piers. :) Thank you!
thanks, I appreciate hearing that from a teacher, it gives me confidence also, thanks mike
At the rate I've been binging on Mike's videos, I will be getting my MHSOHK degree very soon. Thanks again.
Thanks again Luis, Mike
Thanks, so glad you touched on the brick! Good to know.
Thanks, Mike
I would love to see this series redone with your current camera. Thanks Mike.
Thanks Percy, Mike
I’m retired and am just beginning to repoint my 150 year old Pennsylvannia banked barn in Berks County PA. After watching several of Mike's videos I feel much more confident in doing this myself. I’ll try to keep you posted on progress.
Thanks Larry, I appreciate it, Mike
Larry, repoint your stone barn with a high lime mortar (type O or K). Unlike brick and sedimentary 'soft' rocks, your PA stone (metamorphic and igneous) is not water permeable, so your mortar needs to be or will trap moisture and crack away over the years or worse will migrate towards the interior. Pure lime mortar will allow for water to escape and it is flexible. If applied to a clean surface, proper re-tamping strategy and keeping it damp during the cure, it should last a long time. Lime is how they built it and is the best choice for stone house/barn restorations. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise!
And I agree on that with you, there are tons of products and anyway we have to do most of the works every year so why we don’t try them all on different situations and if the work and last, then we know we could use them again on that particular scenario.Thank you again Mike for this great lecture.👏
Thanks again Dario, Mike
I always get something out of your videos. New knowledge, appreciation that you’re willing to share your knowledge, a new way way I look at the everyday buildings, walls etc. The courage to attempt somethings myself. Thanks again!!
Thanks Thomas, Mike
I just watched all three videos and I’m looking outside, feeling like I can do the whole neighborhood. Thank you for the information
Thanks, Im sure you could, mike
The mason saying there's nothing set in stone.. 😂😂😂 Classic!
Your awesome Mike!!
Thank you Mike it very generous of you to share your experience to us . it's a big help .i am so confused when I was in store ,so many kind.i
Thanks , Mike
Mike, I'm extremely grateful for your videos. I've always have been curious about cement and have studied lots of books and videos. I've learned more in watching a few of your videos than everything else combined. You're the best. Now if I lived in Philly I'd buy you a steak sub.
We don’t call them “subs” in Philly! 🤔😅
Smart and practical,you can’t beat a person who has learned from his own and his fathers experience.
Thanks Joseph, Mike
As a homeowner trying to tackle my own repairs, this is very helpful!
Thanks Joanie, mike
Hi Mike, Thanks so much for doing all of these great videos! I think I have watched about 75% of them already, trying to get ready to do my first 3 repair jobs: crumbled brick steps, a concrete porch foundation with a big hole in it, and crumbled concrete steps. Would you ever consider doing a video on a) the tools you most commonly use, b) how to clean up (the site, your tools, clothes, etc.) and c) safety tips (eye protection, dust masks, etc.)? Thank you again - I have learned so much already. Looking forward to trying some practice runs!
thanks R, I do have one started in the making and thinking about getting it out soon thanks, I appreciate it. mike
Mike You do a bloody good job You are practical & share common sense with facts and experience ( Will you Catch on ) From a same age group and a ex R ,Navy Have put your lessons to good use Rock on Sailor Regards and salutations from NZ
Thanks lez, I appreciate it, mike
Thank you for the education. I am now more knowledgeable on the different kinds of cement..
Thanks, Mike
Excellent work I got to hand it to you you are good. Terrific communication skills, explained in a simple to the point format.
Thanks John, mike
Thanks Mike, I love watching your videos... I learn so much from them.
+evitad2U I am just passing along what I learned from the old timers, thanks mike
i appreciate that the guy is a home depot guy! the CTS rapid set products are amazing they are also hydraulic and can be used to solve many problems including marine applications. the grout (cement all) can be used for everything as long as depth is under 4" from counter tops to filling holes to bonding materials. masonry cement contains portland cement and hydrated lime all you need to add is sand to make type s. always make sure that the compressive strength of a concrete/mortar mix is going to be strong enough for the job. mortars-type s above and below grade, type n above grade, type m strongest mortar, type o is above grade repair non load bearing it has the lowest compressive strength. thank you mike for explaining different mixes and there mixture contents. concrete can be a daunting task to many DIYers but it shouldn't be unless volume of product is the issue.
thackerj1 thanks for the input, mike
Mike, thank you for all the extremely helpful and informative videos! They've really helped me.
thanks I hope it helps. mike
Exactly the information I needed for my home project, thanks Mike!
thanks Stephan, I hope it helps, mike
I'll have to wait a few days (setting) to find out, thanks again!
Mike, It's interior, I will not wet the cellar floor, I'll remove the splattered cement with a chisel, and I'll look into the white dry lock paint. Once again thank you for all your expertise and words of encouragement. When I get finished I'll shot you a before and after picture. Thank you, Ed Lynch
thanks Ed, I am sure it will work out, mike
Mike thank you so much for your video's. I think that I am almost as confused as your book but at least I know more than I did. Hopefully by the time that I am done watching your video's I can do my basement bathroom project.
thanks, I appreciate it, mike
I always ask questions sales person about cement because I don’t like buying things to mix items buy this buy that again I just want to buy cement just add water and do the work ,, thank you showing me about the brand cement 👌👌👌
Thanks , mike
You are a gifted teacher
Thanks George, I appreciate the kind words,, Mike
Well done Mike another excellent series.
Many thanks.
Thanks Martin, I appreciate it, Mike
Mike H., your series here was quite informative to me. Now, I'll forge ahead with your other ones.
thanks, I am glad if they help, mike
sparkylights, type-s mortar means it's made with portland cement. Mortar has types N, S or M and the letters represent the mortar strength (psi). Type N is weakest for stone veneer, S can support a load like a retaining wall. Type M is even stronger than S. You don't want Mortar too strong because its strength is supposed to be compatible with the brick strength. When making Mortar lots of recipes call for adding Hydrated Lime to make it more workable and water proof. Not to be confusing but Lime also comes in type-S and N. The letter on lime indicates the procedure how the lime was hydrated. Type-S Lime means it was hydrated in a pressure chamber to ensure there is less than 8% unhydrated oxides in the lime. Unhydrated oxides will chemically burn your skin. Type-N lime doesn't use a pressure hydrator and there isn't a specified limit to the amount of unhydrated oxides in the lime.
thanks John , there is a lot of things in there for sure. mike
John Woolfrey OMG thank you!
Thanks John for sharing your info, added nicely to Mike's series. Getting puckered up to re-point my chimney. I love the "University of TH-cam"
Great videos. I m a beginner, learn alot from u Mike. You go strait to the point when u do things no BS. Thanks and BTW you should have much more subscribers
Thanks Vincent, I appreciate it, mike
Thank you for your videos. I happened to receive 50lb type s lime. ( free ) . I know I can use this to white washer cinder blocks, besides that what other uses can I use? Making my mortar mix white for river rock pillar ?
Hi Deb, in my area I never use lime, it usually potland or maybe "s" mortar, thanks mike
These videos are great. Learned a lot. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
+Mark Christensen thanks, I appreciate it. mike
Hi Mike, Hope all is well with you . Its Ed Lynch from Philly via Shamokin about my 1863 brick row house in Philly. I finally finish the cellar walls, what a tedious job, much of the foundation was 3-4 inches of red clay and sand between the stone. Surprisingly much of the stone came from our anthracite coal region cause it was tipped and edge with coal. I used a chisel and several wire brushes,I wet it with the hose and packed it with portland cement " 1 bucket of cement and 2 buckets of sand" packed cement in every area and all around the joists as you said and smooth it as good as I could with rags. It looks pretty good. (1) My question is that some of the cement splattered on the floor not thick amounts even though I put thick cardboard around. I bought a floor scrapper and its rough scrapping it up. I wanted to know if I sprayed small areas of the floor with water would it make it easier to scrape it up? or would that make the issue worst? (2) I'm getting ready to make the white wash, I'm using water lime, salt and small amounts of sand. Must I wet the walls first before I begin painting the whitewash on? Thanks for all your advise and knowledge. Peace Ed Lynch
HI Ed, I would think wetting the sidewalk would make it worse, it is soft for a few days then gets hard as hell, a chisel might do it, I do not add salt at all, and before you white wash it consider a white dry lock paint if it is inside, I think it is better, Peace also thanks mike
Thank you Mike. your videos are really informative. best on the net. im almost confident enough to start my project.
***** Thanks Alain, I appreciate it, I hope your projects come out well, mike
I have an old soft brick chimney, mortar is fine but each year more of the brick surface chips off during the winter when it freezes. After 50 years it's looking rough and I'm replacing the roof with a standing seam metal roof ( aka hidden fasteners) Your videos gave me the courage and confidence to veneer the chimney with stone. My biggest concern was getting the mortar mix right and getting it to hold. I've watched your 7 part series on installing stone veneer and also your 8 part on stick on stone installation and use it as a reference when I get stuck. I'm putting a scratch coat over the brick and then stone on that. For a Wisconsin winter should the base coat use type S mortar alone alone or should I add some portland cement to it. Also do you explain in any videos how you flash a stone chimney especial a veneer stick on stone job.
Thank you for providing such clear instructions. The manufacturers seem to leave out important steps for DIYers like wetting the wall first. My nightmare would be seeing stone piece on the ground 3 years after I finish this job because water got in behind it and frost popped them off..
Hi Jim, you could go straight portland or go half s mortar and half portland with sand, then when you are finished I would give it a sealer, that concrete sealer, quikrete I hope it helps thanks mike
Mike Haduck LOL you created more questions. Is this for the scratch coat and sticking the stone on? To clarify, why The Portland cement alone Vs the the " type S - portland - sand" mix (how much of each 1-1-1)and can both go go on straight for both the scratch coat and attaching the stone and the mortar joints? I assume the wet mix is just past dry like smooth peanut butter. When complete the roof will be steel and it will be difficult to access the chimney for maintenance so the concrete sealer is the last step before I take the scaffold of the 10/12 roof and cover it with steel, correct? Will the sealer have to be repeated?
Hi Jim, just check out the videos "How I install stone veneer" 6 parts, all th techniques I use are there, and then if I use a sealer It would be the very last step before I take the scaffold down, then check it every year for sure, I hope it helps, thanks mike
Great information sir! Very confusing to go out there and decide which darn cement to use. Thanks 👍👍
Thanks J, mike
Thanks a lot for the videos! These are awesome. I cut a hole in my foundation to sneak in a glulam girder, and you're videos are helping me button things up :)
Thanks, I appreciate it. Mike
Hi Mike. These videos are great. Thanks very much for posting.
I enjoy making them, thanks, mike
Great videos. On my property there is a dry river wash with a lot of course sand. Can I just use that to mix with mortar to build some stone walls?
Hi Anthony, I remember the old timers doing that, the difference with commercial sand it is washed with no mud in it, thanks, mike
I like when you use the Old school method KISS - keep it simple stupid and the don’t fix it if its not broke - super good job on your video’s Mike always thumbs
Thanks Mike, Mike
Hey Mike I’m here in California just started out being a tender for a masonry company about 6 months ago I’ve been learning a lot and still trying to get all the basics down but I hope to study your videos and eventually build a lot of things in the future with the knowledge you share thanks for inspiring me, my uncle is building out of Adobe in Arizona and I’m hoping I can use this knowledge and apply it to the Adobe and make some really cool walls and buildings with some nice stone work to go along with it if there’s any way to contact you I would like to talk sometime thanks again
Hi BG, I appreciate it, I never met a rich mason but there are a lot of things it leads too, in all labor there is profit, i will be glad if my videos help, thanks Mike
Great video! I’m new to doing masonry and was a bit clueless on what to use
Thanks Jonathan, Mike
So freaking informative. Thank you so much, very meaningful!!
Thanks Belle, Mike
Thank you sir for your information and tips.
Thanks, Mike
Thank you. Great video series. I learned a lot.
thanks, I am glad it helps, mike
Great vids mike!!! The cement all quick drying products have a compound called luminite in them. That is the compound the shortens the drying time. Watch Kirk Giordano's stucco on TH-cam, he has a lot of vids on luminite and stucco. He takes a lot of pride in his work and is an excellent teacher like you. Keep up the great vids!!! They are extremely helpful, especially to a carpenter like me who is trying to understand more about all the different trades.
thanks brad, actually I am one of Kirks biggest fans, I give him a lot of respect for sure. thanks for the info. mike
Giordano
all of your videos are great!
Thanks Brooke, mike
Alot of buildings now are made with pre-cast concrete, are they just as strong Mike,? thanks for all your tips i have learnt a lot.
I think in most cases pre-cast concrete is better, like my superior wall video, and it has been heading that way for a while, I am doing a block job now and will keep that in mind when I comment, thanks mike
ill watch that one Mike, i haven't seen that one, thanks for your feedback.
Mike, up in your part of the country, by any chance do you know Porter Soley from Mississippi. I took three semesters of masonry at Pearl River Community College. I’ve tried every mix of cement, sand, lime and finally to keep things simple I use type S mortar mix. I have used type N masonry cement with three parts of sand. I have a ton of old brick down here in Mississippi.
Hi Robert, I don't know him, but I am sure he knew his trade, thanks Mike
So a French masonry guy installed my slate walkway (over a concrete slab) and slate stair treads (over brick risers). During the first winter after installation the treads popped loose and the slate on the walkway became loose and the mortar between the rectangular pieces of slate are broken and coming up. He came back after I complained and used Liquid Nails to put the treads back in place. They popped loose again. Years later, after removing all of the popped treads, for safety reasons, I am now using a grinder to remove the original layer of mortar/cement/whatever Frenchie used to cement the treads in place and I'm getting ready to put the treads back in place. (The walkway will have to wait until next year). Should I use Portland + Sand or the premixed deal?? These treads HAVE to stick because I'm getting too old to be a DIY-er. Your expertise would be great!
Hi Carolyn, I have a whole playlist on " stone patio installation " Mike haduck, I show in each video what I used, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck I watched part one last night. I'm thinking Portland + Sand will be the ticket for happiness. You are an artist!
Mike I'm really enjoying your videos. Very well done and educational. We just bought a brick veneer house that was build in the 1940s and needs repointed in a few areas. Pulled out a few chunks of mortar and is pretty white which makes me think it might be lime mortar or at least contains lime. I'm trying to figure out how to match the color but maximize longevity. Any suggestions? White Portland? Located in the midwest
Hi Keith, I have a video out called , how I relay brick and match cement joints, Mike Haduck, that should put you on the right track, thanks mike
Ever since I started working for myself back in the 90s, I've always stuck with the thought processes of, do it like grandpa did, because those things are still around.
thanks Chris, very true, I appreciate it. mike
Great videos. What about self leveling cement and how durable are they for A garage floor?
Hi Earl, I never really used it, I am still a bit old school, thanks mike
Mike thanks for the info. I have a brick veneer I'm re-pointing and the existing mortar is very white. It is about 25 yrs old. Looks like it has little or no sand in it? Any idea what the mortar might be?
Hi Andy it sounds like white mortar and white silica sand, usually you can get it at brick or stucco yards, you might even be able to use a white stucco mix they sell at Lowe’s, thanks mike
Great info as always! Thanks for posting!
Thanks J K, Mike
MIKE, I am going to repair concrete formed around steel structure beams. Is it better to use the mortar type s or a Portland and sand mix?
Hi Terry, I can't say unless I seen it, steel beams and masonry don't mix well, expansion and rust is always a issue, thanks Mike
I thank you very much for making these videos
Thanks Edgard, Mike
Mike, i have a small wood stove in the Corner of my shop that sits caddy corner and I wanted to put rock on the to walls in the Corner. it will be 4' x 9' on each wall. what steps should I take, do I put up hardy board first? walls are just studs with insulation between them. also want to make a 5'×5' rock pad to put under my stove. right now it is on concrete floor. how should I tackle this project. I've put pallet wood on walls and adding vinyl plank flooring, doing a rustic themed man cave in back half off my shop. 10'x19'.
Thanks so much for your videos Mike! They're truly a gift for people like me who trying to do they're own repair projects. I'm repairing some deep textured stucco on my house. I've been practicing with premixed Portland and doing very well matching the existing stucco design, but I don't want to paint it unless I absolutely have to. The newer cement is lighter in color than the old. Would it work to make a loose Portland "paint" mix and brush on a finish coat to blend the old and new cement tones? Looking for an opinion I can trust. Thoughts Mike?
Hi Lori, I did a ,video called, "painting with portland, whitewash, bonding, Mike Haduck. I think that will answer most of your questions, it is a cheap alternative, I hope it helps , thanks mike
Mike Haduck
Hi Mike, thanks for replying. I watched the suggested video, as well as several others. I just realized that what I thought was a portland mix is actually a professional grade mortar mix (for hi strength structural repair) allowing stucco repair up to 6" thick. Will this be okay to continue using for repair and a "paint" coat...or should I stop and switch to actual Portland cement for the whole job? Lori
Hi Lori, I can not tell anyone what to do over the internet, because every situation is different, and I am not there to see it. so I only show what I did and hope folks can pick up on it and use it for food for thought, stucco is usually not a big issue, I hope it helps, thanks mike
Mike Haduck
Hi Mike,
I understand completely how hard it would be to advise on a project via the Internet, without hands-on involvement. I'm off to a great start...so I'll keep moving forward. I appreciate your feedback very much. Thanks again for your terrific videos! Lori
thanks Lori, I am sure it will come out great, mike
Very good video. Thank you.
Thanks, mike
Thanks Mike...Great stuff as usual.
thanks JImmy, I appreciate it, mike
Mike, I have a four foot tall front concrete porch, it has started cracking up and falling apart, I live in Judsonia Arkansas.. what type cement should I use to bond it back together ?
Hi Phil, I have a whole series called "foundation repair " mike haduck, I show what I use in each circumstance, thanks Mike
Appreciate the info, well laid out. Got a kick out of the ASTM jargon. I was looking at that on the type "N" mortar mix bag of "Quickcrete" and wondered what kind of college degree one would need to understand that mess LOL.
Thanks Mr, Rain, I don’t know why they make it so confusing, mike
@@MikeHaduck do you have any videos on the difference of latex or acrylic fortifiers s bonding agents for pointing? What is your thoughts on them? Appreciate your knowledge.
Hi Mr Rain, I rarely use them, the old timers would mix up a Portland paint which I use mostly, and never had a problem,,but maybe I will add some to a slurry when resurfacing a sidewalk or driveway, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks for your time and expertise Mike!
Mike i dont know if youl see this , is it acceptable to correct to slope of pavement using a thin layer of concrete with adhesive with a roughed up surface?, they got the level wrong years ago so im going to give it a go.
Yes , I have done that, built it up, like my concrete patch videos thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks for the Help, Ken
Mike a good rule of thumb is the mortar, (and I define mortar as a mixture of ordinary Portland cement ,sand and lime ,Or if lime is not being used a liquid plasticiser.) should always be weaker than the unit your laying, be it a clay brick a concrete block or what ever. Irish cement Ltd has 6 easy to follow advisory leaflet,s on there website that covers all this stuff . Its very interesting reading .
+bric bybrick Hi, it is a very good way of saying it and I will down the road say it in that way,, I appreciate it. thanks mike
Mike, is it okay to use a modern mortar mix to repoint a 100 year old house in a northern climate, or is it too hard? If it is too hard what should I use? Great videos, many thanks.
+Ross Henderson it is impossible to answer unless I seen it. but I have some videos, how I repoint a old stone wall. maybe they should help, thanks mike
Thank you. Very well delivered and understandable. I am female 72 yrs in Phoenix Arizona. I want to build my own wall.66 ft long. . What's the cheapest way for me as a newby. .
Can't afford professional help.
Hi Phyllis, first you got to see if the city would let you and then what would be allowed, thanks Mike
always awesome... merry christmas mike!
Thanks Chad, Merry Christmas, Mike
Great video Mike. Thank you.
Doubtful you will reply but if anyone can answer that is awesome too, I was wanting to build a small smoke house/cooking house out in our backyard out of slat rock because it is so commonly available where I live. Is this option and can I just use some portland cement as I got a bunch of bags laying around or do I have to go buy some Mansonry cement?
+LilFluffBall you have to be careful with using stone in fire pits etc, If the stone has water in it it could explode, I have seen it happen,,, I only use Portland personally, everybody got their own opinion, I hope it helps, mike
Well, the stone that we have looks like its all clean from water/air pockets (I hope). Thanks mate ~Derek
Thanks Mike , This Explains a lot , Im just not sure I can get the S mortar to stand 18 foot 3-7 inch thick 2 inch wide up the stone wall , But I will give it my best shot.
Hi JC, I can not say, I would ask the locals what to do in that situation, every job is different, thanks mike
I used rapid set repair mortar. It can be applied vertically. Only bad thing is that it dries fast; set control helps. Stucco mix can work also. Practice to make sure what you are using will stay in place on a vertical surface as it is tricky and if you use the wrong stuff, it is an awful time.
@@matthewjamison1193 Thanks I use to mix sand Mortar cement in the 1980s for block . Fixing my home Chimney they did it all wrong the hole for the firebox is larger than the stone rain comes in around the chimney no flashing or weather strip i plan to flash the wall and go up to the eve with mortar over lap the flashing and redo the siding up to the mortar . i know in temps over 80 mortar will get hard in 10 minutes i did basement windows and the chimney cricket used mortar to make the field stone flush 6 inch thick in some area .
Thank you for the information
Thanks Baris. Mike
I'm working on a project that calls for a plaster made from 5 perlite 1 sand 1 lime 1 portland and 1 washed sand? Not sure what is meant by washed sand. Can you use mason sand in plaster?
Hi Jim, not sure of that, but washed sand is just plain old Mason sand if you ask me, Kirk. Might be the guy for that, thanks mike
Hey Mike, does it matter if you use play sand or quikrete sand for brick work motor mix .
Donny
Hi Donny, I usually go to a landscape or brick supply yard and get regular mason sand, but play sand is very close and I use it in a pinch or just buy the premix, everything depends on the job, thanks, mike
@@MikeHaduck thanks for the responce. I will have to look for my local supply yard ... home depot didnt have hydrated lime when I asked they told me to use quikrete mason mix type s ...have you ever used this stuff, if so what are your thoughts? ... it seems to be a 1:2:9 mix ... the guy didnt even ask me what type of brick/stone I was using and that frightens me . Thanks
Donny
I already texted my buddy who introduced me to your channel, the situation with the bricks on steps here in PA. By the way in that same scenario, could you explain me how houses like mine made with bricks don’t fall apart as you mentioned on the steps’ case?
Steps lay flat and water stands longer and soaks into the brick c cuz brick is sponge like. Walls are upright and water doesn't stay on long enough for that much water to soak in. Wet bricks in steps then freeze and crumble cuz freezing water expands and breaks anything that tries to stop it.
It's usually a small amt. Of damage per year adding up over the years.
have you ever done slip forming for stone walls..... ive seen it here and would like to try it
tell me what you think
Hi sono, I am a lot of old school and just stick to that, but I appreciate it. thanks mike
your videos are great,,, simple and straight forward. many people appreciate you.
God bless you Mike
thanks sono, I appreciate you, God bless, mike
I love the video. I'm looking forward to my first bird bath.
thanks Nelda, I hope it works out, thanks mike
Which motar would u recommend for an exterior ledgestone?
Hi Lisa, I have a playlist on stone veneer, I show the different cements I use, thanks Mike
Awesome Video's Thank you Mike, - John
Thanks, good stuff.
Thanks, Mike
Great teacher!
+Jeffrey Lynn Hecker thanks, it make me think I am on the right track, I appreciate it , mike
I'm a cement mason/ patchman/ concrete finisher and after 10+ years I am thinking of switching Into plumbing I am 35yo..what your thoughts on that..
Hi Expat, I would have gone that direction if I had do do it over, masonry everybody tries to stop you and the weather kills you, my opinion, thanks mike
Good video ,Thanks
thanks Minnesota, I appreciate it. mike
Mike, just can't get my head around what the difference is between cement and concrete.. Love your videos... you really really help us. .. thanks so much for doing these videos. :))
Hi Colleen, I would say, cement and concrete could be considered the same, like a violin or fiddle, concrete has small rocks added to it and uses portland cement, while basic cement has lime in it and is easier to use for brick an block, everyone will say different, I hope it helps, mike
Thanks Mike, well done.....but I have a question, what does " type S" mean?
I think John woolfrey down below in the comments got the best answer. personally I just call it a general purpose cement. middle of the road, not on sidewalks or driveways though. my opinion thanks. mike
I saw a video that said dirt bricks can last a long long long long long long long long long time more than 20 years even into the hundreds they do add a little bit of lime and probably a little bit of Portland do you know anything about that?
Hi, lots of different countries do it a different way ,so I would think it depends where you live, thanks Mike
do you use spex mixs for building block wall?
I am not familiar with it, I just use the products I showed, thanks mike
Nice ok thanks mike! Ps I learned a lot from your video much presiated
thanks Bobby, I appreciate it. mike
your awesome as always thank you
I am just passing along what I learned from the old timers, I appreciate it, thanks mike
Thanks Mike
Thanks David, mike
Thanks Mike.
thank you, mike
I couid not comment better than Matthew Cremona ! thanks Mike
I appreciate it because it makes me think I am on the right track. thanks mike
Thanks. I needed that.
No Brick!
Thanks Tony, I appreciate it, Mike
I meant it base on your comment about bricks absorbing humidity
Thanks , again, mike
great video Mike how about cement shoes mikey ,just kidding Im from Youngstown ,Ohio
thanks, a salute to Ohio, I appreciate it. Mike