Hi Benjamin ! Nachträglich noch gesundes Neues 2017 ! Das Konzept finde ich auch hoch interessant. Denn, so eine Art von Hemmung kannte ich bis jetzt auch noch nicht. Ich kenne nur die klassische "Blechankerhemmung", und die "Chronometerhemmung", oder auch "Spindelradhemmung" genannt. Das ist echt Wahnsinn, was es alles so für Methoden gibt, um die Zeit zu messen, und anzuzeigen ! Mach weiter so, es ist immer wieder hoch interessant, wes Du hier so vorstellst. ;-)
Der Pendel bekommt zu wenig Schwung bei mir. Habe den Fehler noch nicht gefunden. Ich musste auch die Klinke verkürzen in mit Schraube versehen, weil sonst die Klinke zu früh ausgelöst wurde. Kann ich dir Ei Foto oder Filmchen schicken für die Diagnose?
I am glad you got this clock working! I am still trying to get it to work. I created a new front piece out of brass to hold the three rods straight. I added washers on those ratchets. The clock kit was too expensive for what it is. In my version at least the CNC was poor quality, as if the cutter were really old and moving too fast. I recommend a laser cut version, if anyone else wants to do this clock at all. I wish this kit was better. Maybe look at other plans from wooden-gear-clocks.com or www.woodenclocks.co.uk/
I don't think that kit is too expensive. Look around, where can you get such nice clock kits for 180€ with such a great instuction manual. Even a simple foliot clock kit is about 250€ easily.
The problem is that it wasn't quite engineered well enough. There are better plans out there and better kits. I thought that because this one was from Germany, it would be well engineered. Well, it's not German engineered. It's a self-taught English engineered. I should have bought one of the American clocks. They are prettier and I am sure they work.
I cannot ask questions on the forums page of woodentimes.com. I am hoping to get ideas on how to make this clock work. I see that you modified the "push"? mechanism and the ratchet. I am sorry my German is so bad, but I wasn't sure if you did anything else. I talked about fixing the the "play" or slop in the minute hand. (It just needs to be moved closer (smaller distance between centers of gears). The hour hand thing required making new gears. Other builders also modified the design, but I cannot see any photos anywhere.
That's not easily to change. If you want less "play" or "slob" (the tecnical term for what you mean is "clearnce") you have to change either the center distance between the minute wheel and the canon pinon or the diameter of both wheels. Otherwise it's not possible. Other than that, this one if not a high accuracy or precission clock rather than an optical highlight which is moving and roughly showing the time.
Thank You, Phalos! I noticed you did two modifications at least. You added a screw (presumably as a weight) on the ratchet mechanism. Was this to over come friction or to increase it? You also changed the "pushing" mechanism to the pendulum. How did you figure out what to do? I tried making another of these parts (even though the original seemed to be exactly like the videos on woodentimes website.) I find that the push just isn't enough to keep it going. Did you only cut it down and add something on the back part? How did you know how much to take off and add? I wish at this point I bought from wooden-gear-clocks.com or www.woodenclocks.co.uk/
Hi Benjamin ! Nachträglich noch gesundes Neues 2017 ! Das Konzept finde ich auch hoch interessant. Denn, so eine Art von Hemmung kannte ich bis jetzt auch noch nicht. Ich kenne nur die klassische "Blechankerhemmung", und die "Chronometerhemmung", oder auch "Spindelradhemmung" genannt. Das ist echt Wahnsinn, was es alles so für Methoden gibt, um die Zeit zu messen, und anzuzeigen ! Mach weiter so, es ist immer wieder hoch interessant, wes Du hier so vorstellst. ;-)
Chronometerhemmung und Spindelhemmung sind aber zwei ganz verschiedene Arten von Hemmung! ;-)
Google es mal.
Ich gucke mal ja ! Jedenfalls, diese Art kannte ich bislang nicht. Nur so etwas Ähnliches bei Elektrischen Uhren.
Der Pendel bekommt zu wenig Schwung bei mir. Habe den Fehler noch nicht gefunden. Ich musste auch die Klinke verkürzen in mit Schraube versehen, weil sonst die Klinke zu früh ausgelöst wurde. Kann ich dir Ei Foto oder Filmchen schicken für die Diagnose?
Danke schön für interessante Videos
Kannst du bitte bitte mal die Uhr Rechts daneben vorstellen?
Solche Vorderzappler Uhren mag ich sehr.
Vielleicht könnte man das Zahnflankenspiel beim Minutenzeiger durch Auswuchten korrigieren. Oder man treibt gar den Minutenzeiger separat an.
Hast du die Achsen mit etwas geölt oder warum laufen die so zackig?
geölt ist da nix. Ist ja eine Holzuhr.
Hallo! Mir fällt auf, dass durch die Räume ungewöhnliche Kupferdrähte laufen. Wofür sind die?
Wolfgang Däger das ist meine flurbeleuchtung (24V)
Interesting, but I the Kuhschwanz is catching my eye.
I am glad you got this clock working! I am still trying to get it to work. I created a new front piece out of brass to hold the three rods straight. I added washers on those ratchets. The clock kit was too expensive for what it is. In my version at least the CNC was poor quality, as if the cutter were really old and moving too fast. I recommend a laser cut version, if anyone else wants to do this clock at all. I wish this kit was better. Maybe look at other plans from wooden-gear-clocks.com or www.woodenclocks.co.uk/
I don't think that kit is too expensive.
Look around, where can you get such nice clock kits for 180€ with such a great instuction manual.
Even a simple foliot clock kit is about 250€ easily.
The problem is that it wasn't quite engineered well enough. There are better plans out there and better kits. I thought that because this one was from Germany, it would be well engineered. Well, it's not German engineered. It's a self-taught English engineered. I should have bought one of the American clocks. They are prettier and I am sure they work.
I cannot ask questions on the forums page of woodentimes.com. I am hoping to get ideas on how to make this clock work. I see that you modified the "push"? mechanism and the ratchet. I am sorry my German is so bad, but I wasn't sure if you did anything else. I talked about fixing the the "play" or slop in the minute hand. (It just needs to be moved closer (smaller distance between centers of gears). The hour hand thing required making new gears. Other builders also modified the design, but I cannot see any photos anywhere.
That's not easily to change. If you want less "play" or "slob" (the tecnical term for what you mean is "clearnce") you have to change either the center distance between the minute wheel and the canon pinon or the diameter of both wheels. Otherwise it's not possible.
Other than that, this one if not a high accuracy or precission clock rather than an optical highlight which is moving and roughly showing the time.
Thank You, Phalos!
I noticed you did two modifications at least. You added a screw (presumably as a weight) on the ratchet mechanism. Was this to over come friction or to increase it?
You also changed the "pushing" mechanism to the pendulum. How did you figure out what to do? I tried making another of these parts (even though the original seemed to be exactly like the videos on woodentimes website.) I find that the push just isn't enough to keep it going. Did you only cut it down and add something on the back part? How did you know how much to take off and add? I wish at this point I bought from wooden-gear-clocks.com or www.woodenclocks.co.uk/