@@mikesphotography your videos are excellent sir. So of them are quite difficult to me as I have limited equipments. But definitely interesting to watch and learn.
Thanks so much Ravi...yeah, I do want to make more tutorials to cover more generic photography topics...are there any things you'd like to learn that I haven't covered yet?
@@mikesphotographySir, Your videos are really interesting. Especially 2 minutes videos. Very short and interesting. Covered almost all Theoritical and practical concept. I tried some but failed only, especially lightning one,(interesting and thrilling, mostly unable to focus), Milky way (not possible due to light pollution) etc. Based on your suggestion, I purchased photopills, accu weather (paid version) etc. I tried one moon alignment, but due to hazy clouds, not get good images. I am learning. Lots of failure, but really interesting and thrilling to walk around and visit many places in the weekend. You covered most topics. One request, please do one video about sunrise/sunset. If already done, please send the link( so far searched, didn't find). Thanks for your concern.Good day
Failure is one step closer to success! 😁 It's great to hear you're getting out there and doing it, I always say its the only thing that will make you a better photographer!! 👍 I've done a video on direction of light but not one specifically on sunrise/sunsets. I'll definitely add that to the list! th-cam.com/video/c_grS4GCKg0/w-d-xo.html As always thanks for watching and thanks for commenting dude, I really appreciate it!! 😁
Hi Mike, Thanks for useful tutorial. I have experienced the horizontal line jump and also some building line jump as well. This is because my tripod was not levelled properly? Cheers
Hi, Yes, normally when you do get a step or a jump, there is either not enough information for the program to blend them properly, or if the tripod is out from being level. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Hello Mike, we are planning a trip next year to Big Bend park in Texas during new moon. i am looking at the Stellarium software for next year in May, it shows me a time between 1:13 Am and 3:13 AM it's rising like into an arch. If we pan left to right single row panorama. i will be done in 30 mins. so how can we get the arch ?
Hi Mike, another good presentation, right in time for the milky way season... Panorama is the best choice for this type of image. You can also combine multiple views by panel to reduce the noise. I've tested also with a 85/1.8 and it gives a sharp image of the Sagitarius and Antares region ....
Hey Mike! I have a question about the Stacking x Panorama part. Lets say that I took 30 images for a panorama, and overlaped it a lot. Would I really need to stack images upon eachother before this to reduce noise? Doesn't the overlap work just like the stacking mechanic? Normally I take 4 photos at the same spot, then change to next spot, then 4 photos etc. Then I get home and stack those 4 images to 1. After all that I put those stacked images into my panorama. What if i just overlaped it more instead of stacking. Would it still be "same" quality?
That's a good question Joakim, I'd keep doing the way that you're doing it. Because you keep the frame still for a number of shots, it reduces the noise in each of those frames before building the panorama. If you were to just do a high level of overlap, there might still be parts that aren't overlapped...and I'm not sure how the program would cope with images that weren't in exactly the same place when it comes to noise reduction. 👍
Hey Mike, thanks for sharing this video. I found you today in TH-cam.... last year i started with astrophotography and this year i want to start with panorams of the milky way and also with several vertical rows. What do i have to pay attention both in shooting and editing? What is the difference to a normal panorama with just one row? Thankyou Greets from germany
No worries, great to hear you found my channel. I should be out shooting some more night skies later in the year when I get back to the UK to live. The only thing with astro panos is to make sure you don't take too long between shots as the exposure times are already quite long. As for multi layered panos, you just need to make sure you have a lot of overlap between frames and have the camera in manual mode and manual focus so nothing changes between frames. Also if you are lighting the foreground, the light has to be consistent between frames. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Great tutorial! I actually thought it will be more complicated, as the stars are moving over time. So i thought that might make it harder, but apparently doesn't seem to be a problem :)
Excellent and to the point on all.. The issue of distortion of lenses below say 24mm is not clear, can you show an example. I have been using a 12mm or 14mm @ 70% for fewer shots needed. This year the season started in Jan. because the new moon is at the end of the month next year Feb. the new moon will be at the beginning of the month, every other year it switches. Also a two week window watch moon sets and rises. June and July are liked because it rises during the evening blue hour after sunset, early in the year it starts to rise at 0500 for an hour, a good blue hour with first light below and maybe some snow covered hills or ski slopes.
That's a great bit of information there...it is great how the lunar cycles roll though the years, I just wish the pandemic hadn't hit right in milkyway season!! 🤦🏻♂️ The vignetting was more of an issue from my 14mm than the distortion...when I was trying to blend them together, I was getting darker strips on the joins. Unfortunately there's no way of sharing images in the comments... Thanks for watching. 👍
@@mikesphotography Thank you for clearing that up. When I can get out I plan on doing panos in 12mm, 14mm, 20mm and 24mm in 3:2 perspective (to me it looks like a wide angle shot) at 180 degrees (Plan It Pro has a section to view panos and shot steps and a tide scale [very helpful along the ocean]).
Hello Mike. Getting ready for a trip to the Masai Mara and learning about Milkyway Arch Pano. I get the idea of a series of pics and stitch them together. I also learned to take many pics of the same view and stack them for a better outcome. Can you do the Pano where you take a number of shots of each position, stack them first and then stitch the series together for the arch pano? Thanks
Hi James, Sounds like it should be a fantastic trip with lots of dark skies! Yes, you can take a series of shots and then stack them, and after that stitch them together in a Pano. The only thing to watch out for is taking too long getting each stack. You don't want to let the stars move too much through the frame otherwise the computer might find it hard to stitch the Pano together. What camera and lens do you have for night skies?
Thank you for the prompt response and info (makes sense). I was thinking maybe 8-10 shots in each position - too many? I have a Sony A7iii and can use either a Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 or a Sony G 20mm f1.8.
No worries. The 20mm f1.8 would be perfect. Also make sure to take some dark frames before you start or after you finish and this will help the software get rid of even more noise from your frame. 👍
@@mikesphotography Will do!!!! I can send you a pic of my efforts upon my return - I will be there from mid May through the beginning of June. Please keep up your great work!!!
nice vid/info!! so im wondering about the need to find parallax or nodal point on the camera to keep an even or smoother alignment of frames or is that not necessary when subject like MW is so far away?? thanks for any additional thoughts on this
Hi Karen, The only time you'll really need a nodal pan head is if there is something really close to the camera...and nowadays the editing programs deal with this really well when stitching images together. I wouldn't worry too much about this, I'd focus more on getting a decent amount of overlap to make it easier for the computer program when stitching them together. Thanks for watching 😁👍
I was so excited to see an astro tutorial from you, Mike. It did not disappoint. As always, great information and so easy to understand. I have been trying to decide on a lens to purchase for astro photography and just general landscape stuff as well. I have been looking at 12, 14 & 16mm lenses, but have been giving some serious consideration to the Sony 24mm 1.4. Have you used this lens? It is certainly more expensive, but I have heard pretty good things about it. I would love to know your opinion. I was thinking that it could work for astro, but still give some run and gun auto focus flexibility for when we are traveling as well. Great video, my friend.
Hi Stephen, This was a fun one to make, although the astronomers that I was hanging out with did throw far too much red light on the foreground!! 😆 I haven't had a chance to use the sony 24mm 1.4 but I'm trying to get my hands on it asap. I've heard great things about it as well but you're right, its expensive!! I'd also like to do a comparison between the batis 25mm and the sony 24mm...if only sony would lend me one...🤔 I also really like my Samyang 14mm for really wide field shots but I keep going back to my batis 25mm as it is so sharp and a little quicker. So many choices!!!
Great tuto! Thanks for the advice to enable profile correction and remove sharpening before merging. Is it good to apply the same techniques before an HDR merge ?
Thanks so much! I do the same out of habit when blending bracketed images...I don't think you need to do it because there is only 3 images, but it doesn't seem to adversely affect the final image either way. Thanks for watching! 👍
I've never tried this technique before. Will it work with a 50mm on an aps-c body as well? With the crop factor it's around 80mm. My 50mm is the only fast lens I have.
Yes it will, although you will have to take a lot more photos ... and you will probably need a program like PTGui to stitch them together successfully. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Hi Juan, I have a really old one...It's an optex 1990's video camera tripod!! 😁 I got it a while back from a second hand store and it's been really great!! I do have the manfrotto 055 aluminium tripod but I keep using the old one! Thanks for asking! 😁👍
You can definitely use a bigger angle of turn with a wider lens. Just keep an eye on the vignetting...my 14mm gave me distinct boundaries between the frames in the final pano.
👍Instructive, clear and useful info, Mike - from tripod movement scale, through to LR edits (tips and pitfalls). With long exposures for astrophotography combined with panos , is there a point at which the shutter speed is so slow as to mess up (via star movement) pano overlaps?
Thanks so much Paul. as long as you follow the 500 rule, you should be ok. With your tripod, if you have a sturdy one, a 2 second delay on the shutter should be just fine. When doing 13 second exposures, there's not too much movement between the shots in the stars and the computer usually stitches them together successfully...especially when your foreground is clear. Thanks for watching! 😁👍
Could you do a Golden hour \Blue hour pano for foreground illumination and then return later to capture the Milky Way for your sky and then stitch them all together in Lightroom\photoshop?
@@mikesphotography Thanks Mike, we have a new moon currently, so just need clear skies in the UK and I'll attempt it this week. Thanks the the info mate and great video content as always 👍
Most definitely! I'm waiting on some clear skies as well at the mo. Sods law always seems to get in the way of the new moon!! 😆🤦🏻♂️ I hope you get some some clear skies soon. 😁👍
It all depends on how the app stitches your shots together. If you're shooting with something like the 50mm f1.4 from Canon, wide open, nothing will get rid of the coma and astigmatism as it is so prevalent, but if you use something like the 14-24mm from sigma, this will be very limited with these defects, so it will be much less obvious. I have successfully stitched images together from the samyang 24mm, but with the 14mm samyang, it was a little more tricky as the vignetting was a problem ... Basically, as long as the defects towards the edges of each image aren't too great, it shouldn't be obvious ... I hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Hey mike I’m really late to this video but I’ve got a quick question! Do you turn off long exposure noise reduction when doing the panoramas? Just wondering because the stars would move slightly and waiting that extra 15 seconds could screw things up. So I’m wondering if I should turn off the reduction to save time when doing the pano?
No worries, that's a good question. Yes turn off long exposure noise reduction. Like you said, those extra few seconds between each shot would make quite a bit of difference and you want them as close together as possible. 👍
Great video mate! Curious to know where you shoot your astro shots! Empty Quarter, Abu Dhabi from what it seems like, I think yes? My father and I go around the Al Qudra area as it's rather close by to our house in Springs. A tad bit of light pollution, but it's a pretty good location overall!
Hi Sahir, Yes, you're right, we head down to the empty quarter when there is a new moon. When the air quality is good, you can get some fantastic star filled skies! I've been to Qudra as well and its pretty good for only one hour away from Dubai. Again, when their isn't too much dust in the air, you can see the milkyway there as well. 👍 Thanks for watching. 😁
Haha! Yep, I’d filmed the talking pieces and didn’t have time to re-film it. I did put in the text on screen, “star or planet” to try and cover my error in the audio! 😆👍
Thanks Mike for the extremely clear, instruction, and useful information. Just a quick question - in addition to each picture being 15 degrees apart, how long should we wait in between each picture before taking the next one? And how many pictures would you suggest we take to create a full panorama picture? Thanks in advance!
No worries, I'm glad it has helped! For the pano, I'd take them as close to each other as possible, so as soon as you've got the camera into the next position, take the shot. As for how many you take, it all depends on how long you want the pano. I'd normally take about 6-8 shots. 👍
I have already done a timelapse video for the a7iii: th-cam.com/video/rZsZJc0LH34/w-d-xo.html and the slow mo one is on the way. Thanks for watching! 😁👍
Is it possible to use my mobile phone (Huawei P10 Lite) to take a picture of the milky way if I stitch the photos together and/or stack them? Is there an astrophotography app to let me change the shutter speed etc?
I'm not sure Tom, If you can take a shot in manual mode and you can get your shutter speed to about 15 seconds, it should work...and if you use Starry Landscape Stacker, you should be able to clean up the image, but that would mean editing on a mac. Thanks for watching. 😁👍
You don't need a nodal pan head to get it right as most programs will stitch it together successfully...if you want it perfect, thats when a nodal pan head comes in handy. Thanks for watching. 😁👍
It would work. You would have to increase your ISO to compensate for the smaller aperture but it would definitely work, you might have to put more noise reduction on the image in post but it definitely works...I have a video coming soon on can you shoot the stars with an f4 lens and can you shoot the stars with a kit lens...and in those I find out all about the higher iso levels in this camera! Thanks for watching! 😁👍
It depends on how much vignetting you get with that lens. With my 14mm samyang I got too much vignetting to make it work properly. Also it depends on which camera you're using it on. On a crop sensor, this would be the equivalent to a 24mm, so this would be ok. On a full frame, this would be much wider, so you might get a bit of distortion that could also cause a few issues. I hope that helps. 👍
Wow, I just looked on lightpollutionmap.info you have a lot of light in Korea! The only place where you might get something is over in Gwangwon or Mt Odae but then it looks like there would be light pollution on the horizons. I can imagine how frustrating that would be.
With a 24mm lens on a full frame camera, you'll have a maximum of 13-16 seconds exposure time on each frame...together with a 2 second delay timer and the time to move the camera between shots, this would be fine for a 10 shot pano. As long as you work your way through the pano without any big delays it will be fine. Thanks for watching. 👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks Mike,what if I take 3 or 4 shots per frame for after stacked or sth,is it time not enough？Or do panoramas don't need a stack at all?
You can stack them if you want and it shouldn't show too much movement between the frames...however I find the best bet is to try and get good single frames...I might make a tutorial soon on light painting panorama astro shots soon as this really helps in getting the shot in a series of single exposures. 👍
Really appreciate the effort and directness of your videos; thanks!
Great to hear you like them!
Thanks for watching Kevin. 😁👍
This is quite precise and easily explained. Just what I wanted to see.
Thanks so much! I'm glad I could help. 😁👍
So quick and yet detailed. Excellent video.
Thanks Mike. Awesome video
Glad you enjoyed it! 😁👍
Great info for Astro panos. Thanks Mike!
Thanks Carmen, I hope it helped. 😁👍
Great short video! I need to buy the panorama adapter
Thanks very much Jasmine! 😁👍
Bravo Mike; Well Done!
Thanks so much Michael!!
Good work, Mike. You are always so informative. Thank you!
Thanks so much I Hope it helped!! 😁👍
I have been waiting so long for this one! thank you Mike!
Excellent Francesco! I hope it has helped! 😁👍
Nice video. Thank you from France 🇫🇷
Thanks so much Benjamin! 😁👍
Thank you Mike once again.
No worries Krushev, Thanks for watching! 😁👍
Another great video! Thanks.
Thanks so much Carlos!
Great as always! Thanks Mike!
Thank you very much!! 😁👍
Wonderful tips and tutorials, great.
Thanks so much Ravi! 😁👍
@@mikesphotography your videos are excellent sir. So of them are quite difficult to me as I have limited equipments. But definitely interesting to watch and learn.
Thanks so much Ravi...yeah, I do want to make more tutorials to cover more generic photography topics...are there any things you'd like to learn that I haven't covered yet?
@@mikesphotographySir, Your videos are really interesting. Especially 2 minutes videos. Very short and interesting. Covered almost all Theoritical and practical concept. I tried some but failed only, especially lightning one,(interesting and thrilling, mostly unable to focus), Milky way (not possible due to light pollution) etc. Based on your suggestion, I purchased photopills, accu weather (paid version) etc. I tried one moon alignment, but due to hazy clouds, not get good images. I am learning. Lots of failure, but really interesting and thrilling to walk around and visit many places in the weekend. You covered most topics. One request, please do one video about sunrise/sunset. If already done, please send the link( so far searched, didn't find). Thanks for your concern.Good day
Failure is one step closer to success! 😁 It's great to hear you're getting out there and doing it, I always say its the only thing that will make you a better photographer!! 👍
I've done a video on direction of light but not one specifically on sunrise/sunsets. I'll definitely add that to the list!
th-cam.com/video/c_grS4GCKg0/w-d-xo.html
As always thanks for watching and thanks for commenting dude, I really appreciate it!! 😁
Hi Mike,
Thanks for useful tutorial.
I have experienced the horizontal line jump and also some building line jump as well.
This is because my tripod was not levelled properly?
Cheers
Hi,
Yes, normally when you do get a step or a jump, there is either not enough information for the program to blend them properly, or if the tripod is out from being level.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks for useful advise
Hello Mike, we are planning a trip next year to Big Bend park in Texas during new moon. i am looking at the Stellarium software for next year in May, it shows me a time between 1:13 Am and 3:13 AM it's rising like into an arch. If we pan left to right single row panorama. i will be done in 30 mins. so how can we get the arch ?
Super sir...📸📸📸📸
Thank you very much! 👍
Hi Mike, another good presentation, right in time for the milky way season... Panorama is the best choice for this type of image. You can also combine multiple views by panel to reduce the noise. I've tested also with a 85/1.8 and it gives a sharp image of the Sagitarius and Antares region ....
Thanks so much Patrick,
Most definitely!! I’ll be doing a tutorial on stacking images to reduce noise really soon. 😁👍
Lol, sorry for the spoiling... :o)
Haha! No worries Patrick!! 😁👍
Hey Mike!
I have a question about the Stacking x Panorama part.
Lets say that I took 30 images for a panorama, and overlaped it a lot. Would I really need to stack images upon eachother before this to reduce noise? Doesn't the overlap work just like the stacking mechanic?
Normally I take 4 photos at the same spot, then change to next spot, then 4 photos etc. Then I get home and stack those 4 images to 1.
After all that I put those stacked images into my panorama.
What if i just overlaped it more instead of stacking. Would it still be "same" quality?
That's a good question Joakim,
I'd keep doing the way that you're doing it. Because you keep the frame still for a number of shots, it reduces the noise in each of those frames before building the panorama.
If you were to just do a high level of overlap, there might still be parts that aren't overlapped...and I'm not sure how the program would cope with images that weren't in exactly the same place when it comes to noise reduction.
👍
Good tutorial
Thanks very much! 😁👍
Hey Mike, thanks for sharing this video. I found you today in TH-cam.... last year i started with astrophotography and this year i want to start with panorams of the milky way and also with several vertical rows. What do i have to pay attention both in shooting and editing? What is the difference to a normal panorama with just one row?
Thankyou
Greets from germany
No worries, great to hear you found my channel. I should be out shooting some more night skies later in the year when I get back to the UK to live.
The only thing with astro panos is to make sure you don't take too long between shots as the exposure times are already quite long.
As for multi layered panos, you just need to make sure you have a lot of overlap between frames and have the camera in manual mode and manual focus so nothing changes between frames.
Also if you are lighting the foreground, the light has to be consistent between frames.
I hope that helps.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Great tutorial! I actually thought it will be more complicated, as the stars are moving over time. So i thought that might make it harder, but apparently doesn't seem to be a problem :)
As long as you don't take too long between shots it shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
Exactly what I need. Thank you so much!
That's great to hear Jeff, I'm glad I could help!
Thank you mike !
No worries, I hope it helped! 😁👍
Excellent and to the point on all.. The issue of distortion of lenses below say 24mm is not clear, can you show an example. I have been using a 12mm or 14mm @ 70% for fewer shots needed. This year the season started in Jan. because the new moon is at the end of the month next year Feb. the new moon will be at the beginning of the month, every other year it switches. Also a two week window watch moon sets and rises. June and July are liked because it rises during the evening blue hour after sunset, early in the year it starts to rise at 0500 for an hour, a good blue hour with first light below and maybe some snow covered hills or ski slopes.
That's a great bit of information there...it is great how the lunar cycles roll though the years, I just wish the pandemic hadn't hit right in milkyway season!! 🤦🏻♂️
The vignetting was more of an issue from my 14mm than the distortion...when I was trying to blend them together, I was getting darker strips on the joins. Unfortunately there's no way of sharing images in the comments...
Thanks for watching. 👍
@@mikesphotography Thank you for clearing that up. When I can get out I plan on doing panos in 12mm, 14mm, 20mm and 24mm in 3:2 perspective (to me it looks like a wide angle shot) at 180 degrees (Plan It Pro has a section to view panos and shot steps and a tide scale [very helpful along the ocean]).
Hello Mike. Getting ready for a trip to the Masai Mara and learning about Milkyway Arch Pano. I get the idea of a series of pics and stitch them together. I also learned to take many pics of the same view and stack them for a better outcome. Can you do the Pano where you take a number of shots of each position, stack them first and then stitch the series together for the arch pano?
Thanks
Hi James,
Sounds like it should be a fantastic trip with lots of dark skies!
Yes, you can take a series of shots and then stack them, and after that stitch them together in a Pano.
The only thing to watch out for is taking too long getting each stack. You don't want to let the stars move too much through the frame otherwise the computer might find it hard to stitch the Pano together.
What camera and lens do you have for night skies?
Thank you for the prompt response and info (makes sense). I was thinking maybe 8-10 shots in each position - too many? I have a Sony A7iii and can use either a Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 or a Sony G 20mm f1.8.
No worries. The 20mm f1.8 would be perfect.
Also make sure to take some dark frames before you start or after you finish and this will help the software get rid of even more noise from your frame. 👍
Here's a link to a video I did on stacking a while back. th-cam.com/video/rEU9kPCwotM/w-d-xo.html
👍
@@mikesphotography Will do!!!! I can send you a pic of my efforts upon my return - I will be there from mid May through the beginning of June. Please keep up your great work!!!
nice vid/info!! so im wondering about the need to find parallax or nodal point on the camera to keep an even or smoother alignment of frames or is that not necessary when subject like MW is so far away?? thanks for any additional thoughts on this
Hi Karen,
The only time you'll really need a nodal pan head is if there is something really close to the camera...and nowadays the editing programs deal with this really well when stitching images together. I wouldn't worry too much about this, I'd focus more on getting a decent amount of overlap to make it easier for the computer program when stitching them together.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
I was so excited to see an astro tutorial from you, Mike. It did not disappoint. As always, great information and so easy to understand. I have been trying to decide on a lens to purchase for astro photography and just general landscape stuff as well. I have been looking at 12, 14 & 16mm lenses, but have been giving some serious consideration to the Sony 24mm 1.4. Have you used this lens? It is certainly more expensive, but I have heard pretty good things about it. I would love to know your opinion. I was thinking that it could work for astro, but still give some run and gun auto focus flexibility for when we are traveling as well. Great video, my friend.
Hi Stephen,
This was a fun one to make, although the astronomers that I was hanging out with did throw far too much red light on the foreground!! 😆
I haven't had a chance to use the sony 24mm 1.4 but I'm trying to get my hands on it asap. I've heard great things about it as well but you're right, its expensive!! I'd also like to do a comparison between the batis 25mm and the sony 24mm...if only sony would lend me one...🤔
I also really like my Samyang 14mm for really wide field shots but I keep going back to my batis 25mm as it is so sharp and a little quicker.
So many choices!!!
Great tuto! Thanks for the advice to enable profile correction and remove sharpening before merging. Is it good to apply the same techniques before an HDR merge ?
Thanks so much! I do the same out of habit when blending bracketed images...I don't think you need to do it because there is only 3 images, but it doesn't seem to adversely affect the final image either way.
Thanks for watching! 👍
I have no bracket for my Olympus, how can i adjust it on tripod to capture potrait panoramic scene, to get more space above arch?
I've never tried this technique before. Will it work with a 50mm on an aps-c body as well? With the crop factor it's around 80mm.
My 50mm is the only fast lens I have.
Yes it will, although you will have to take a lot more photos ... and you will probably need a program like PTGui to stitch them together successfully.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Sounds awesome. Will give it a try. Thanks man👍🤙
Nice video Mike, what kind of tripod do u use if we may know
Hi Juan,
I have a really old one...It's an optex 1990's video camera tripod!! 😁 I got it a while back from a second hand store and it's been really great!!
I do have the manfrotto 055 aluminium tripod but I keep using the old one!
Thanks for asking! 😁👍
Does the 15 degree rule with the tripod also works with a wider lense like a 16mm? Or can I take less steps like 25 degrees per photo ?
You can definitely use a bigger angle of turn with a wider lens. Just keep an eye on the vignetting...my 14mm gave me distinct boundaries between the frames in the final pano.
Thank you sir.
And thanks for watching Prashant! :-)
👍Instructive, clear and useful info, Mike - from tripod movement scale, through to LR edits (tips and pitfalls). With long exposures for astrophotography combined with panos , is there a point at which the shutter speed is so slow as to mess up (via star movement) pano overlaps?
Thanks so much Paul. as long as you follow the 500 rule, you should be ok. With your tripod, if you have a sturdy one, a 2 second delay on the shutter should be just fine. When doing 13 second exposures, there's not too much movement between the shots in the stars and the computer usually stitches them together successfully...especially when your foreground is clear.
Thanks for watching! 😁👍
Could you do a Golden hour \Blue hour pano for foreground illumination and then return later to capture the Milky Way for your sky and then stitch them all together in Lightroom\photoshop?
Hi Damien,
You definitely could do that. 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks Mike, we have a new moon currently, so just need clear skies in the UK and I'll attempt it this week. Thanks the the info mate and great video content as always 👍
Most definitely! I'm waiting on some clear skies as well at the mo. Sods law always seems to get in the way of the new moon!! 😆🤦🏻♂️
I hope you get some some clear skies soon. 😁👍
Awesome video! Mike when you overlap your pano shots for 50% plus. Does aberration coma and astigmatism go away
It all depends on how the app stitches your shots together. If you're shooting with something like the 50mm f1.4 from Canon, wide open, nothing will get rid of the coma and astigmatism as it is so prevalent, but if you use something like the 14-24mm from sigma, this will be very limited with these defects, so it will be much less obvious.
I have successfully stitched images together from the samyang 24mm, but with the 14mm samyang, it was a little more tricky as the vignetting was a problem ...
Basically, as long as the defects towards the edges of each image aren't too great, it shouldn't be obvious ...
I hope that makes sense.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Much obliged Mike I’m thinking in using my 24mm sigma art and shoot it at F2 for 180 seconds ISO 400 on my tracker
Hey mike I’m really late to this video but I’ve got a quick question! Do you turn off long exposure noise reduction when doing the panoramas? Just wondering because the stars would move slightly and waiting that extra 15 seconds could screw things up. So I’m wondering if I should turn off the reduction to save time when doing the pano?
No worries, that's a good question.
Yes turn off long exposure noise reduction. Like you said, those extra few seconds between each shot would make quite a bit of difference and you want them as close together as possible. 👍
Mike Smith awesome thank you!
Great video mate! Curious to know where you shoot your astro shots! Empty Quarter, Abu Dhabi from what it seems like, I think yes? My father and I go around the Al Qudra area as it's rather close by to our house in Springs. A tad bit of light pollution, but it's a pretty good location overall!
Hi Sahir,
Yes, you're right, we head down to the empty quarter when there is a new moon. When the air quality is good, you can get some fantastic star filled skies!
I've been to Qudra as well and its pretty good for only one hour away from Dubai. Again, when their isn't too much dust in the air, you can see the milkyway there as well. 👍
Thanks for watching. 😁
@@mikesphotography Cheers! And just realised, at 4:19 you mentioned "star", but highlighted Jupiter rather XD
Haha! Yep, I’d filmed the talking pieces and didn’t have time to re-film it. I did put in the text on screen, “star or planet” to try and cover my error in the audio! 😆👍
Thanks Mike for the extremely clear, instruction, and useful information. Just a quick question - in addition to each picture being 15 degrees apart, how long should we wait in between each picture before taking the next one? And how many pictures would you suggest we take to create a full panorama picture? Thanks in advance!
No worries, I'm glad it has helped!
For the pano, I'd take them as close to each other as possible, so as soon as you've got the camera into the next position, take the shot.
As for how many you take, it all depends on how long you want the pano. I'd normally take about 6-8 shots. 👍
Please upload one video for timelapse and SlowMo Video For Sony A7iii
I have already done a timelapse video for the a7iii: th-cam.com/video/rZsZJc0LH34/w-d-xo.html
and the slow mo one is on the way.
Thanks for watching! 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks a lot . Really your video is very useful . Your follower From india
Excellent!! Thanks for watching!! 😁👍
Is it possible to use my mobile phone (Huawei P10 Lite) to take a picture of the milky way if I stitch the photos together and/or stack them? Is there an astrophotography app to let me change the shutter speed etc?
I'm not sure Tom, If you can take a shot in manual mode and you can get your shutter speed to about 15 seconds, it should work...and if you use Starry Landscape Stacker, you should be able to clean up the image, but that would mean editing on a mac.
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
@@mikesphotography thanks!
Hi Mike,
Do we really need nodal slide to get pano stitching successfully?
You don't need a nodal pan head to get it right as most programs will stitch it together successfully...if you want it perfect, thats when a nodal pan head comes in handy.
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
@@mikesphotography thanks Mike
Would an 16-35 f4 at 25mm work or the aperture is not wide enough ?
It would work. You would have to increase your ISO to compensate for the smaller aperture but it would definitely work, you might have to put more noise reduction on the image in post but it definitely works...I have a video coming soon on can you shoot the stars with an f4 lens and can you shoot the stars with a kit lens...and in those I find out all about the higher iso levels in this camera!
Thanks for watching! 😁👍
Will panos work with 16mm lenses?
It depends on how much vignetting you get with that lens. With my 14mm samyang I got too much vignetting to make it work properly.
Also it depends on which camera you're using it on. On a crop sensor, this would be the equivalent to a 24mm, so this would be ok. On a full frame, this would be much wider, so you might get a bit of distortion that could also cause a few issues.
I hope that helps. 👍
If only it was possible to see it here in korea : /
Wow, I just looked on lightpollutionmap.info you have a lot of light in Korea!
The only place where you might get something is over in Gwangwon or Mt Odae but then it looks like there would be light pollution on the horizons.
I can imagine how frustrating that would be.
15k. Nice video. :)
Haha! Thanks dude, and well noticed...just tipped 15K today!! 😁👍
How long should I finish my work to avoid stars moving too much?
With a 24mm lens on a full frame camera, you'll have a maximum of 13-16 seconds exposure time on each frame...together with a 2 second delay timer and the time to move the camera between shots, this would be fine for a 10 shot pano.
As long as you work your way through the pano without any big delays it will be fine.
Thanks for watching. 👍
@@mikesphotography Thanks Mike,what if I take 3 or 4 shots per frame for after stacked or sth,is it time not enough？Or do panoramas don't need a stack at all?
You can stack them if you want and it shouldn't show too much movement between the frames...however I find the best bet is to try and get good single frames...I might make a tutorial soon on light painting panorama astro shots soon as this really helps in getting the shot in a series of single exposures. 👍
@@mikesphotography Looking forward to your next video,I am your fan from china,great job Mike👍
Sir can i use sony 35 1.8 for panaroma??
Yes you can. Just make sure you get a good overlap between each shot.
Thanks for watching 😁👍
How long do you wait from one photo to another?
Good question. You leave as little time as possible. I just reset the camera to the next position and then take the shot. 👍
you don't wanna ruin you long exposure by camera shake so at least wait a couple of seconds!
@@doxfie. and having the camera on the self timer will allow for this...alos the more sturdy the tripod, the less you'll have to give it time.
After long back video
Thanks!
Hi it