I will release a second video on this construction process detailing the process. Ger your Anchorseal here! 1 Gallon Size amzn.to/2DIAhYS 1 Quart Size amzn.to/2DKVktO
My Granddad always cut the bottom of siding boards at a 10 deg angle from the front to the back (higher in the back). He said it helped with boards rotting from rain. He said it gave an edge for the rain to drip off instead of just sitting on the end grain and soaking up the board. Worked great, as I have some barn boards from him that were put up in the 1930s with very little end rot. Just one person's perspective. Thanks for the vid....
Great video! Liked and subscribed to your channel. As others here have pointed out, the runners are called strapping or furring strips. They give you something to nail to and provide a gap between the boards and the building. This gap is called a rain screen and prevents moisture from accumulating behind the boards. Installing some wire mesh along the bottom prevents pests getting up behind the boards. A rain screen is always required, regardless of the building’s function. I would also recommend that the gap between your boards be a little bit larger in order to accommodate shrinkage and expansion but also to allow you to drive a single nail through the batten through the gap and into the furring strip behind it. This, along with a single nail in the middle of each board allows the entire assembly to move without splitting. As for the video, I was very impressed with your editing skills. I loved the quote at the beginning. I loved the aerial shots. And I even liked the outtake at the end. Keep up the great work... you’ve got yourself a new subscriber today.
Does horizontal strapping, like he's doing, act as a rain screen? Isn't that going to keep water from falling down the side of the building? Asking because I'm about to do the same thing.
@@jh-lp7cg All the more reason to leave a bit of a gap between your boards under the battens so that bulk water will have a place to go if it gets behind the siding. What we don't want is having the boards pressing right up against the sheathing/house wrap, with no space for air flow behind the board/batten siding If we did, then any water that does get in will just sit there and not dry out. It's more about airflow than water flow.
We love board n batten siding. Same method u used except we use T1-11 strips for runners, the grooves in the T1-11 allows air to pass up and down. Great video my friend. . . and by the way, great music. 👍
I am in San Diego, CA. We call the horizontal strips furring or I guess runners. Purlins hold the rafters up at about mid-point to prevent sagging or crowning.
Dude!!! I work in construction. I have been doing it for over 10 years now, And I have never seen anyone do that sweet little trick using the speed square as a guide bar... Thank you Nate!!,🙏 I am going to use that all the time! Today in fact!! 😉🤟
I love your attention to details. your craftsmanship shows in everything you've done. I just found your video. This is the first I've seen, and look forward to seeing all the rest..
You need to stagger the screws you are driving into the 1x3 purlins or runners. The reason why is because the thickness of the screws themselves act as a wedge that will crack that 1x3 into two separate pieces if you don't stagger them. When they nail decks into 2x4 or 2x6s they stagger the nailing to prevent the possibility of turning the nails into wedges creating a stress fracture in the 2x4 pr 2x6.
Those clamping saw horses are great! We use one to clamp branches for draw knifing the bark off. I also use it with a C clamp in the jaws to hold my chainsaw bar so I can sharpen it on the sawhorse. I have the Triton version. Timber framers typically seal the end grain as they are cutting joinery.
In 1980 I put shortleaf pine siding on my house.It is 8”boards with 2” batten strips,all vertical.It still looks good today.The batten strips cover all nail heads,the bottoms are angled for drip and there is no checking.One thing never mentioned that I’m so glad an old carpenter told me; turn the heart side out so if there is any cupping the center rises instead of the edge.Same for a floor,turn the heart up.I have never had a problem but have seen others who did.The batten strips are only nailed on one side away from prevailing wind.
good stuff. I'm still at the chainmill stage and getting real tired of humping this ol 084 around. I Enjoy learning from your videos, thank you for spending the time.
Good stuff! I have a stack of air dried red cedar I'd like to use for siding my workshop next spring. I find I always pick up a few tips or ideas from every video I watch. Cheers! Kent
In the part of Wiltshire I’m from the old boys called this type of building cladding Hit N Miss. we have many small buildings clad this way and it’s my favourite job maintaining it still. My 2 default barn claddings are Hit N Miss and Waney Edge. We are lucky to a have a sawmill about 8 mike away that cuts timber for us. Ive also used local French Oak to make Hit N Miss kitchen cupboards to! Bit over thetop. Love your attitude fella. Great Out Tro 👊🍀
I do it slows down on the drying but I use titebond glue seems for me it's done more than others. To make a piece of lumber or log perfect. Great job you're person who makes it a quality job done right......🤗👍
The air gap also allow wind driven moisture to escape or run out the bottom. I call the horizontal strips strapping there are also girts in walls and purlins in roofs when timber framing. the old guy Bert
put one fastener down the middle of the board, crown out. then put one fastener in the middle of the batten, also crown out. batten fastener goes between the edges of the board. this allows the board to shrink/expand without splitting the board
I agree with Paul Griffin. Thing about green lumber is it will shrink. Another touch is to put one fastener where the batten will cover it. Then nail on the batten between boards. Still curious why you used screws. They must be ten times as expensive as nails. I also don't understand the exclusive use of cordless tools.
I was told to only put 1 screw in the center so as the wood shrinks it won't crack and can move. Then in a year or 2 go back and put screws on each side of the boards. What do you think? I know with my ocd I wouldn't be able to stand looking at cracks lol.
that anchor seal is great, you can go one better and trim the bottom on a 30 degree, place the long face out, and the water will drip off instead of running back under. I like the look of board and batten, but as the boards dry, a decent sized gap can open up and let bugs in. It's a lot of work, but I have been running my boards over the dado, making a 3/4 inch lap, instead of battens, a crack still opens up, but it's 3/8 instead of 3/4. looks good, gl.
I was just going to suggest one nail in middle of board and one in middle of batten, but someone beat me to it. As shown boards will have a tendency to split especially if green wood like I intend to use on new winery barn.
I'll bet that small pocket of dead air behind the siding provides a bit of insulation value as well. Had to chuckle when you talked about the sunglasses. I thought you did pretty well the last time that you spoke into the camera. I am a work in progress as well......
Yeah I hope one day to have a camera for a forward facing screen, really hard to tell what you filming without one, and they eyes just seem to wonder, Thanks for watching! Still cold in your neck of the woods>?
Peter Mortimer that a pretty broad question. It depends on how it’s framed, if the lumber is treated or not, if you have good drainage around the building o and so on. Wood acts as a sponge that expands and contracts with the seasons. That’s y you benefit from sealing it, especially end grain.
I watched an old timer who said to just use one screw in the middle of the green boards so that you reduce cracks from shrinkage. what has been your experience?
Thanks, i ran out of time on this footage, I am going to make an additional video showing the completed wall and installing the batten strips. Thanks for watching!
In green wood board and batten siding, you should fasten the boards and battens down the center. Fastening along the edges can result in splits as the fasteners don't move while the green board does. The boards should be oriented so that any cupping will be up (away from the wall) while the battens should be oriented so that they cup down (towards the wall). This will help to "lock" the boards and battens together.
They are quartersawn so doesn’t matter how o orientate the lumber also. Being quarter sawn the width will move little if any and they were also air dried a few months before installing. They are 1x6 if they were wide boards then yes I would have done what you suggested.
It helps to be able to make your own lumber :). I'm working towards that, making my own lumber. Wife and I have a 60 acre timber lot in East Texas. Hopefully, if it's not sold, I'm off on Saturday to look at a used sawmill. Maybe I'll be milling on Sunday!
Do the girts, perlins, horizontal strapping have any slits in them on the side that goes against the shed for drainage or is that not needed ? Thanks and very nice looking shed !
@@OutoftheWoods0623 hey, I think it is a great idea! only takes a second, and then you know for sure she will last. I like it brother! Will for sure steal your idea on my next build from my boards :-) Keep up your great channel! Love it!
its covered by the over hang of the building and several inches from ground contact, It would be just fine as is for 50 years but I will also paint it once it has air dried a few months. Thanks for watching!
I may be gambling here, but I'm going to try this with, Sweetgum. I know Sweetgum has a tendency to warp and twist as it dries, but I've heard of people using it for barns in the past and I'm not worried about the shed being perfectly sealed. I'm going to use ring-shanked nails and definitely seal the ends during installation. Any pieces that warp real bad I'll replace later. I'm thinking I'll cut them 1" thick and about 6" wide and put them on as I drop and mill them. I have several large Sweetgum trees that have to come down so I may as well use it. Any thoughts or concerns with Sweetgum siding? The shed is just for misc storage of garden pots, hoses, and misc stuff. Great vid and thanks for the knowledge!
My friend/what I also call the guy who taught me a lot of about timber would agree with you in this venture. I would nail it up within days of being sawed and you should be find. Leave a few inches off the ground and it should last a good while. The only way to saw sweetgum for furniture/kiln drying is to quarter saw due to it's spiral interlocking grain. I say go for it, if I had some on hand I would be using it here,
Great job bud! Keep the videos coming. I just finished up board and batten siding on my workshop I'm building. Used SYP since I didn't have a free source of oak logs to mill. I also used house wrap behind mine the way you did. Really you have to or over time you're going to get a little wind blown rain behind there and if you don't have a vapor barrier your OSB will turn to mush and mildew. I do have one question though. What's with the horizontal board you are nailing across the middle at the end of the video. I have a board like that across the top of my boards at the gable ends but that's just to cover the gap between those boards.
out of the woods, is that strpping 4 feet a part that you are screwing the board an bat to? never seen it that way, I know you talk about this in this video but at that far spacing will that geen board not twist up an down like when you put dry wall on 24 inch center studs
Nice video. Question: since you wrapped the building with that Tyvek type material, won't it prevent any moisture from escaping from the kiln and condensing on the inside of your wall boards? In other words will the wrap trap any escaping moisture inside the building?
Question.....I see that you used two screws to hold the boards on each runner. I’ve heard some people say to use only one screw in the middle of each board. And the batten would hold down the edges. Thoughts?
Two screws surprised me, too. One in the middle of green wood is what many folks advise. That's the way I intend to do it when I build a boat shed and other outbuildings with green wood.
Anchor seal is expensive and generally not needed if you are using Eastern White Pine, even if it is fairly green it does not tend to check or move much.
I use home made creosote to seal the ends of boards and fence posts, there is a formula on the internet for making creosote - creosote lasts forever plus a 100 yrs
Klingspor's Green wood Sealer Around 16.95 as I recall. Anchor-Seal discontinued it's affordable recipe of waxy goo but sells nowadays expensive muck for around 32.00 So, use any old latex paint setting back on your shelf in your shop, or affordable 16.95$ waxy goo, because for me, that waxy muck is too costly.
Ok thanks for the reply. Yea I’ve done some research And some say if you use two coats it’s fine most say use anchor seal but I just wanted to get your opinion I watched a bunch of your videos and I think your stuff turns out really nice So if you say don’t use it I’ll stick with anchor seal thanks again for your help
Looks great! Are you using rust resistant nails? It always drives me crazy when I see buildings with rust streaks running down the side from the nails.
Thanks James, Yes I am using galvanized nails for the batten strips, and coated screws for the boards, I hate that rust look also and it will also make the wood turn black around the nail hole, especially in oak, Thanks for watching James!
Hummm I have watched a fue of your vids now. With the siding on your kiln i do have some concerns. As you have mentioned you expect the siding boards to move 5/16", as I would also expect. BUT you have put a screw in each side of each board, this will either crack each board or break the screw off. I have seen this before. I do believe it should be put up with only one screw in the center of each board and also only one screw in the center of each batton. In doing this the boards can and will move with out pulling on any screws or cracking the siding boards.
Thanks for the feedback Jim, you misheard me in the video, I stated about 1/16 on the movement due to the wood be quarter sawn. I will explain my method and expectations on the next video. I appreciate your thoughts on this,
Out of the Woods I install my board and Batton the same way and I never have an issue with it at all and some of it has been up almost 30 years. The siding jobs I have seen where board and Batton went wrong was when it was held up by a single nail in the center and it will cup so bad that it pushes your batton strips off because there’s nothing to hold it flat against the building, in my old ass opinion he has done it the proper way for a proper, long lasting siding job
There is the cupping issue too. But minimal with Quarter-sawn. This cut down on shrinkage/movement. Galvanized nails will hold better than other nails, to eliminate thw battens pulling off.
I will release a second video on this construction process detailing the process.
Ger your Anchorseal here!
1 Gallon Size
amzn.to/2DIAhYS
1 Quart Size
amzn.to/2DKVktO
What kind of wood are you using? Is it cedar?
My Granddad always cut the bottom of siding boards at a 10 deg angle from the front to the back (higher in the back). He said it helped with boards rotting from rain. He said it gave an edge for the rain to drip off instead of just sitting on the end grain and soaking up the board. Worked great, as I have some barn boards from him that were put up in the 1930s with very little end rot. Just one person's perspective. Thanks for the vid....
Good idea, never heard of that one before, thanks for sharing!
Granddad was right!
Good to know.
Heps to keep the water from the sill plate and prevents your sill from rotting out.
I’ll Remember that for Life and pass it on For Sure !
Thx’s
Great video! Liked and subscribed to your channel. As others here have pointed out, the runners are called strapping or furring strips. They give you something to nail to and provide a gap between the boards and the building. This gap is called a rain screen and prevents moisture from accumulating behind the boards. Installing some wire mesh along the bottom prevents pests getting up behind the boards. A rain screen is always required, regardless of the building’s function. I would also recommend that the gap between your boards be a little bit larger in order to accommodate shrinkage and expansion but also to allow you to drive a single nail through the batten through the gap and into the furring strip behind it. This, along with a single nail in the middle of each board allows the entire assembly to move without splitting. As for the video, I was very impressed with your editing skills. I loved the quote at the beginning. I loved the aerial shots. And I even liked the outtake at the end. Keep up the great work... you’ve got yourself a new subscriber today.
Does horizontal strapping, like he's doing, act as a rain screen? Isn't that going to keep water from falling down the side of the building? Asking because I'm about to do the same thing.
@@jh-lp7cg All the more reason to leave a bit of a gap between your boards under the battens so that bulk water will have a place to go if it gets behind the siding. What we don't want is having the boards pressing right up against the sheathing/house wrap, with no space for air flow behind the board/batten siding If we did, then any water that does get in will just sit there and not dry out. It's more about airflow than water flow.
Sir your videos are the perfect cross between Texas country reporter and the woodwrights shop....you should be broadcasted on PBS
thanks, maybe one day, appreciate it,
We love board n batten siding. Same method u used except we use T1-11 strips for runners, the grooves in the T1-11 allows air to pass up and down. Great video my friend. . . and by the way, great music. 👍
Incsects love b and b early fall lodging for the winter ! Woodpeckers love your sidding choice all winter long and forever!
Mr negativity.
Now I've got it. Listening to you is like listening to Billy Bob Thornton, which suits me just fine!
I am in San Diego, CA. We call the horizontal strips furring or I guess runners. Purlins hold the rafters up at about mid-point to prevent sagging or crowning.
Dude!!! I work in construction. I have been doing it for over 10 years now, And I have never seen anyone do that sweet little trick using the speed square as a guide bar... Thank you Nate!!,🙏 I am going to use that all the time! Today in fact!! 😉🤟
I would seal the ends too. Yes, some would consider steps like this as overkill, but that's what separates great work from just good work.
Thanks Gary. Appreciate that
I love your attention to details. your craftsmanship shows in everything you've done. I just found your video. This is the first I've seen, and look forward to seeing all the rest..
thanks, appreciate you watching,
Milling up some board and batten today buddy! Thanks for the video!
Nice good luck!!!
Nice good luck!!!
You need to stagger the screws you are driving into the 1x3 purlins or runners. The reason why is because the thickness of the screws themselves act as a wedge that will crack that 1x3 into two separate pieces if you don't stagger them. When they nail decks into 2x4 or 2x6s they stagger the nailing to prevent the possibility of turning the nails into wedges creating a stress fracture in the 2x4 pr 2x6.
Good tips on end seal, spacing for moisture and proper fastener measurements. Nice work. I enjoy seeing construction done properly.
... 2 years later and it still very informative and interesting to watch ... speed square guide on a work horse ... learned something new. Thanks.
Those clamping saw horses are great! We use one to clamp branches for draw knifing the bark off. I also use it with a C clamp in the jaws to hold my chainsaw bar so I can sharpen it on the sawhorse. I have the Triton version. Timber framers typically seal the end grain as they are cutting joinery.
Yeah I wish I would have purchased one years ago. Interesting that the timber farmers do that and makes perfect sense. Thanks for watching!
In 1980 I put shortleaf pine siding on my house.It is 8”boards with 2” batten strips,all vertical.It still looks good today.The batten strips cover all nail heads,the bottoms are angled for drip and there is no checking.One thing never mentioned that I’m so glad an old carpenter told me; turn the heart side out so if there is any cupping the center rises instead of the edge.Same for a floor,turn the heart up.I have never had a problem but have seen others who did.The batten strips are only nailed on one side away from prevailing wind.
good stuff. I'm still at the chainmill stage and getting real tired of humping this ol 084 around. I Enjoy learning from your videos, thank you for spending the time.
Good deal. What size bar are you running? Thanks for watching!
Like the drone shots a lot, thanks for adding them. And also that green wood will dry and the space will let it dry better as well. Great video...
Thanks Robert, appreciate you watching,
Good stuff! I have a stack of air dried red cedar I'd like to use for siding my workshop next spring. I find I always pick up a few tips or ideas from every video I watch. Cheers! Kent
thanks Kent, appreciate you watching,
In the part of Wiltshire I’m from the old boys called this type of building cladding Hit N Miss. we have many small buildings clad this way and it’s my favourite job maintaining it still. My 2 default barn claddings are Hit N Miss and Waney Edge. We are lucky to a have a sawmill about 8 mike away that cuts timber for us. Ive also used local French Oak to make Hit N Miss kitchen cupboards to! Bit over thetop. Love your attitude fella. Great Out Tro 👊🍀
Thanks Paddy, appreciate you watching,
It keeps the wood from suckling up moisture and start to rot. And seals the end.
I do it slows down on the drying but I use titebond glue seems for me it's done more than others. To make a piece of lumber or log perfect. Great job you're person who makes it a quality job done right......🤗👍
Thanks 👍
Your videos are getting better man.....Keep at it...
Thank you
Enjoyed the video, great tips on when to use the AnchorSeal.
Nice look the board and batten siding!!
Thanks, Glad you got something out of it, I am going to do another video showing the battens going up and the finished wall,
Thanks for watching,
The air gap also allow wind driven moisture to escape or run out the bottom. I call the horizontal strips strapping there are also girts in walls and purlins in roofs when timber framing. the old guy Bert
👍👍thanks for watching!
Wouldn't the strapping stop any moisture from making it to the bottom?
put one fastener down the middle of the board, crown out. then put one fastener in the middle of the batten, also crown out. batten fastener goes between the edges of the board. this allows the board to shrink/expand without splitting the board
Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated. Thanks for watching 👍👍
I agree with Paul Griffin. Thing about green lumber is it will shrink. Another touch is to put one fastener where the batten will cover it. Then nail on the batten between boards. Still curious why you used screws. They must be ten times as expensive as nails. I also don't understand the exclusive use of cordless tools.
I was told to only put 1 screw in the center so as the wood shrinks it won't crack and can move. Then in a year or 2 go back and put screws on each side of the boards. What do you think? I know with my ocd I wouldn't be able to stand looking at cracks lol.
that anchor seal is great, you can go one better and trim the bottom on a 30 degree, place the long face out, and the water will drip off instead of running back under.
I like the look of board and batten, but as the boards dry, a decent sized gap can open up and let bugs in. It's a lot of work, but I have been running my boards over the dado, making a 3/4 inch lap, instead of battens, a crack still opens up, but it's 3/8 instead of 3/4.
looks good, gl.
Thanks and I appreciate the feedback
I used seasoned lumber for board and baton on my cabin. I sealed the ends (latex paint) just to prevent rot and extend life.
good idea,
Perlins are 2x4s used on pole barns n post style construction. Used in a horizontal direction like you did.
The kiln is looking awesome! I'm thinking about building one out of a shipping container once I get my shop built this spring. Another great video!
Thanks, a shipping container would be a good way to build one,
Thanks for watching!
Great explanation on your process. Thank you
Enjoy the videos brother ...keep them coming.
Thanks Todd, just finishing up an edit on a new one, should be out soon, I appreciate you watching,
I was just going to suggest one nail in middle of board and one in middle of batten, but someone beat me to it. As shown boards will have a tendency to split especially if green wood like I intend to use on new winery barn.
Gotta get me a set of those sawhorses. They are pretty slick.
Rockwell makes them, they have those at Lowes, it's like having an extra set of hands,
Can you use cdx sheathing for the siding? Will it stand up to the weather if it was caulked and painted?
Great over head shot of your property, and a great video
Thanks. Trying to get better on the drone. A lot to learn. Thanks for watching!
Out of the Woods Your doing good with the drone.
Thanks!!
I'll bet that small pocket of dead air behind the siding provides a bit of insulation value as well. Had to chuckle when you talked about the sunglasses. I thought you did pretty well the last time that you spoke into the camera. I am a work in progress as well......
Yeah I hope one day to have a camera for a forward facing screen, really hard to tell what you filming without one, and they eyes just seem to wonder,
Thanks for watching! Still cold in your neck of the woods>?
It was up near 50 a week ago and then it was minus 5 this morning.
in the low 40s here today, suppose to be 60 tomorrow!
Man I’ve lived and built barns and buildings in northern Kentucky most my live and I’ve never heard of Ancorseal. Thanks for the advice!
👍
I never heard of Anchor Seal until I starting researching, why my wooden shed timbers are rotting from the concrete base up. Any suggestions?
Peter Mortimer that a pretty broad question. It depends on how it’s framed, if the lumber is treated or not, if you have good drainage around the building o and so on. Wood acts as a sponge that expands and contracts with the seasons. That’s y you benefit from sealing it, especially end grain.
Great video . Excellent presentation . Now where do I get those sawhorses in the UK. ! Thanks for sharing .
thanks ,i got mine at the local Lowes store, Thanks for watching!!
I watched an old timer who said to just use one screw in the middle of the green boards so that you reduce cracks from shrinkage. what has been your experience?
Siding looks great! Can’t wait to see it when it’s done. Always appreciate the videos and keep up the good work!
Thanks Jack, much appreciated!
nicely done ... I've sided my sheds in a similar way and found it to be very solid and tight
Thanks, i ran out of time on this footage, I am going to make an additional video showing the completed wall and installing the batten strips.
Thanks for watching!
can't wait to see it
In green wood board and batten siding, you should fasten the boards and battens down the center. Fastening along the edges can result in splits as the fasteners don't move while the green board does. The boards should be oriented so that any cupping will be up (away from the wall) while the battens should be oriented so that they cup down (towards the wall). This will help to "lock" the boards and battens together.
They are quartersawn so doesn’t matter how o orientate the lumber also. Being quarter sawn the width will move little if any and they were also air dried a few months before installing. They are 1x6 if they were wide boards then yes I would have done what you suggested.
It helps to be able to make your own lumber :). I'm working towards that, making my own lumber. Wife and I have a 60 acre timber lot in East Texas. Hopefully, if it's not sold, I'm off on Saturday to look at a used sawmill. Maybe I'll be milling on Sunday!
Good deal. Good luck!!
New subscriber here. Excellent videos! You could have your own TV show. But, hey this is TH-cam, better than TV. Look forward to more.
Agreed.TV would be going backwards. Thanks for watching 👍👍
Do the girts, perlins, horizontal strapping have any slits in them on the side that goes against the shed for drainage or is that not needed ? Thanks and very nice looking shed !
No slits. Solid wood
Thanks for watching
You can also use Titebond for end grain seal as well.
good to know, never thought of that, thanks!
I had not either. I saw a wood turners video and he prefers titebond over anchorseal. It is nice for the person like me that wouldn't use much.
thanks for sharing that advice, may have to try that one day if my anchorseal runs out,
Out of the Woods latex paint works well too. Could also use poly or laquer
what was the purpose of nailing a horizonal strip over the aiding. looks to me like a great place for water to lay
You have yourself some beautiful property there buddy
Do you worry about water pooling above the runner since it runs horizontally?
nah been 2 years, doing just fine,
@@OutoftheWoods0623 that's standard procedure here in Scotland. If you think about it that's exactly what's going to happen..🙈🙈👍
I have done siding and put up, but never sealed the ends. 10 years now and no issues, but, would have been a great idea!!! wish I would have!
yeah not sure if it is necessary either, thanks for watching,
@@OutoftheWoods0623 hey, I think it is a great idea! only takes a second, and then you know for sure she will last. I like it brother! Will for sure steal your idea on my next build from my boards :-) Keep up your great channel! Love it!
You should cut a 45 degree angle on the bottom of the boards for water drop formations to fall. Less chance of rot from the bottom
I am actually going to cover the entire bottom with a 2x5 white oak plant to act as a sill,
Thanks for watching,
Thanks for the video. With the wood siding exposed to the elements, how do you keep it from rotting?
its covered by the over hang of the building and several inches from ground contact, It would be just fine as is for 50 years but I will also paint it once it has air dried a few months.
Thanks for watching!
What's that interesting building in the background? Nice proportions.
I may be gambling here, but I'm going to try this with, Sweetgum. I know Sweetgum has a tendency to warp and twist as it dries, but I've heard of people using it for barns in the past and I'm not worried about the shed being perfectly sealed. I'm going to use ring-shanked nails and definitely seal the ends during installation. Any pieces that warp real bad I'll replace later. I'm thinking I'll cut them 1" thick and about 6" wide and put them on as I drop and mill them. I have several large Sweetgum trees that have to come down so I may as well use it. Any thoughts or concerns with Sweetgum siding? The shed is just for misc storage of garden pots, hoses, and misc stuff. Great vid and thanks for the knowledge!
My friend/what I also call the guy who taught me a lot of about timber would agree with you in this venture. I would nail it up within days of being sawed and you should be find. Leave a few inches off the ground and it should last a good while. The only way to saw sweetgum for furniture/kiln drying is to quarter saw due to it's spiral interlocking grain. I say go for it, if I had some on hand I would be using it here,
Red 6Romeo a twist ads character
Great job bud! Keep the videos coming. I just finished up board and batten siding on my workshop I'm building. Used SYP since I didn't have a free source of oak logs to mill. I also used house wrap behind mine the way you did. Really you have to or over time you're going to get a little wind blown rain behind there and if you don't have a vapor barrier your OSB will turn to mush and mildew. I do have one question though. What's with the horizontal board you are nailing across the middle at the end of the video. I have a board like that across the top of my boards at the gable ends but that's just to cover the gap between those boards.
Thanks Clint, I am filming a follow up video today, I will address your questions,
Another great and very informative video.
Thanks William. Appreciate you watching
Morchure. I love it.
However if your runners are set horizontal won’t they trap any moisture from running down and out?
out of the woods, is that strpping 4 feet a part that you are screwing the board an bat to? never seen it that way, I know you talk about this in this video but at that far spacing will that geen board not twist up an down like when you put dry wall on 24 inch center studs
They are 3 feet. Apart. Quarter sawn boards no worries in it moving a lot. Thanks for watching
Anchorseal! The second best thing Buffalo NY has given the world.
My eyes to the same thing. Another great video.
Thank you
I was told you're suppose to nail only one side of the boards so they don't crack when the shrink from drying. Am I missing something?
Bring God into your videos and all will go great. Loved the into and the ending. God will always give you choice and favor.
You cant' go wrong with God on your your side.
he is already there, no invite needed,
Thump, thump, thump.
Nice video. Question: since you wrapped the building with that Tyvek type material, won't it prevent any moisture from escaping from the kiln and condensing on the inside of your wall boards? In other words will the wrap trap any escaping moisture inside the building?
This wrap is made so moisture can escape but not come in 👍. thanks for watching
Neat place, good work. I see asphalt on the drive. You're rich, oil wells, won the lottery?
I’m a model
That gap also becomes a great home for the bees or maybe a yellow jacket or wasp nest.
Yes thought that also. 👎👎
great video, well done, love your channel,
thank you,
They're purlins when they are on the roof. They're girts when they are on the walls.
What would you recommend for a preserver/ sealent on the board an baton?
I thought the "battons" were going to be like 1x3s over each verticle gap between the boards.
Looks rustic and nice. But isn't tongue and groove even better ? That is what they use in my country(Norway).
yes but more expensive, hello to Norway!
Question.....I see that you used two screws to hold the boards on each runner. I’ve heard some people say to use only one screw in the middle of each board. And the batten would hold down the edges. Thoughts?
Two screws surprised me, too. One in the middle of green wood is what many folks advise. That's the way I intend to do it when I build a boat shed and other outbuildings with green wood.
What is the voice over at the beginning from? Love some of your music choices, very shooting and appropriate.
Voice over sounds like Johnny Cash. Yes - Music selection is awesome.
Just love these video's
thanks!
Would you recommend the air gap on a cabin? Enjoyed the video!
Thanks. Not sure on a cabin. Never been around much cabin construction. Thanks for watching 👍
Anchor seal is expensive and generally not needed if you are using Eastern White Pine, even if it is fairly green it does not tend to check or move much.
Great job April. Don't forget security system for your shop
A little OCD re: lining up the screws, but looks great! I will be doing that from now on too! :)
Lol yeah. I like stuff to match. 👍
What kind of wood are you using for your board and batten siding?
southern Red Oak,
I use home made creosote to seal the ends of boards and fence posts, there is a formula on the internet for making creosote - creosote lasts forever plus a 100 yrs
What kind of lumber did you use for the board and batten?
red oak,
I wasn't sure if it was red oak or what I've known as water oak. Thanks bud!
Good job.
Thanks!
I would be inclined to agree about the runners allowing moisture to escape IF the wrap was not installed on the OSB. The moisture will not
The moisture will be trapped by the wrap, so I hope the OSB doesn’t deteriorate.
@@stevensublett7589 it shouldn't as the wrap allows vapour out and prevents water getting in . This fellow had done it correctly
Klingspor's Green wood Sealer
Around 16.95 as I recall.
Anchor-Seal discontinued it's affordable recipe of waxy goo but sells nowadays expensive muck for around 32.00
So, use any old latex paint setting back on your shelf in your shop, or affordable 16.95$ waxy goo, because for me, that waxy muck is too costly.
good instruction here, thanks for the info,
Thanks for watching!!
hello. what do you think about installing the batten direclty on plywood, instead of using board ? It will be ok ?
Nice job...I want that draw knife.....
Thanks. John Neeman maker. Great tool. Thanks for watching
Ditto on the draw knife. I've never seen one like it but it sure looks awesome.
Out of the Woods I've got several draw knives ....butt... the handles are all straighter than yours do you have a link to that supplier
It's a tool and a work of art...beautiful, it must be a pleasure to use.
Great video. Well done. Love that kiln my friend. Hope you are doing well.
Thanks buddy!!
thanks for explaining that,, I was wondering what it was then you start telling us. really odd that some 1 can read my mind
Thanks for watching!👍👍
Do you ha e to use Anchor seal or would regular paint do the same thing
yes, paint would not work,
Ok thanks for the reply. Yea I’ve done some research And some say if you use two coats it’s fine most say use anchor seal but I just wanted to get your opinion I watched a bunch of your videos and I think your stuff turns out really nice So if you say don’t use it I’ll stick with anchor seal thanks again for your help
great video! Thanks for sharing,
Thanks for watching
Looks great! Are you using rust resistant nails? It always drives me crazy when I see buildings with rust streaks running down the side from the nails.
Thanks James, Yes I am using galvanized nails for the batten strips, and coated screws for the boards, I hate that rust look also and it will also make the wood turn black around the nail hole, especially in oak,
Thanks for watching James!
That'll last a very long time, nicely done!
Thanks James, hope to be adding some batten strips today and the white oak 2x6 for the bottom sill,
That'll look great!
I kinda like the rust, makes it look RUSTic !!
noticed you nailed both sides of the boards.... I was told to only nail one side because when it shrinks it will split board
Nope wood shrinks around the nails. No issues
thanks for posting, very helpful,
thanks for watching
Hummm I have watched a fue of your vids now. With the siding on your kiln i do have some concerns. As you have mentioned you expect the siding boards to move 5/16", as I would also expect. BUT you have put a screw in each side of each board, this will either crack each board or break the screw off. I have seen this before. I do believe it should be put up with only one screw in the center of each board and also only one screw in the center of each batton. In doing this the boards can and will move with out pulling on any screws or cracking the siding boards.
Thanks for the feedback Jim, you misheard me in the video, I stated about 1/16 on the movement due to the wood be quarter sawn. I will explain my method and expectations on the next video. I appreciate your thoughts on this,
Out of the Woods I install my board and Batton the same way and I never have an issue with it at all and some of it has been up almost 30 years. The siding jobs I have seen where board and Batton went wrong was when it was held up by a single nail in the center and it will cup so bad that it pushes your batton strips off because there’s nothing to hold it flat against the building, in my old ass opinion he has done it the proper way for a proper, long lasting siding job
I think you are right with one nail or screw in the center of the board and one in the batten thru the crack between the boards.
There is the cupping issue too. But minimal with Quarter-sawn. This cut down on shrinkage/movement. Galvanized nails will hold better than other nails, to eliminate thw battens pulling off.
I love Johnny Cash. Thank you.
👍
great video,
thanks,
Thank you.