Climbing Kit Review: Why You NEED A Kong Gigi Belay Device. Maybe!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
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You always need new climbing gear.
Haha, very true!
I’ve been watching your videos since covid, and I am invariably pleased with how you frame and talk about gear/systems. I recommend your videos to all my students/mentees just because of the way you address multiple aspects of an issue. You rock and are greatly appreciated🤘
Thanks for the kind words!
“I’m gonna keep using it, but if I never had to use it again, I’d be okay” lol
Love your content, you’ve motivated me to stay hard on social media stuff
Glad you like the content 💪
Both of y’all do a great job of breaking down technical climbing info to a digestible level
Both of you guys are the best climbing channels out there for rational information
@@elliotboon7727 thanks!!! That’s cool… I feel lucky to be in the same conversation as @JBMountainSkills 😁😁
Climbing Technology makes two similar devices as well. The Crocodile goes from 7.7 - 9 mm (twin/double) and 8.5 - 11 mm (single) and 9 -12 mm (static) whereas the GiGi goes from 8 - 13 mm (doesn't seem to distinguish between rope type, although says it's for twin/double/single). The Croc is shaped the same as the GiGi, for the most part; it doesn't appear to have the "bulge" on the one side, however. They also have the Groove. It goes from 7.7 - 9 mm (twin/double) and 8.9 - 10.5 mm (single). It has a different shape on one side, which allows you to get more friction when abseiling (rappelling/rapping); "two lower braking grooves allow for rope positioning to adjust abseil speed." Definitely not needed, especially since one should probably be using a third hand (prusik), either way, but I think it's a nice to have extra feature. It DOES appear to have the "bulge". Without testing each of the devices side-by-side and for general rock climbing purposes, so not rescue scenarios or static rope stuff, I'd say the Groove is the best device all around; at least on paper. Then again, the Groove looses a point for weight. It weighs 85g, the Croc weighs 65g and the GiGi weighs 62g (or 68g depending on which site you look at). It should be noted that the GiGi has a Titanium version, which isn't, it's Aluminum Allow with silver Titanium color they call Titanium. All devices mentioned above are Hot-Forged. The Camp OVO, which doesn't appear to be listed on their site anymore, so may be discontinued, weighs 58g and is for ropes 8 - 9 mm (double) and 10 - 11 mm (single); according to WeighMyRack. There are also larger devices that appear do similar things, plus a bit more: Grivel Shuttle (belay "organizer" for tethering; could beat out the CT Groove, since it's roughly the same weight and is intended for guides with multiple climbers), Kong Full (also has a belay "organizer" for tethering), Edelrid Mago 8 (adds figure 8), Sterlin ATS (adds figure 8), Rock Exotica Totem (adds figure 8) and a smaller device that is for alpine rappeling on super tiny ropes and does have guide mode, but, umm, alpinists do alpine things (Grivel Scream). I'm sure there are others, and each device has it's pros and cons and little eccentricities, but that's the main gist of it.
I’m not a guide, and have never belayed two climbers at once. But this is my go-to multi pitch device for the leader, as it’s just such a pleasure to use. Get a round stock HMS biner in there as the blocker and it’s the smoothest thing in the world. And the weight savings is meaningful because there is no need to carry more than one device. The system is that the follower gives a lead belay with a grigri or atc, and the leader belays the follower with the gigi.
If swapping leads, you swap devices. If block leading, the leader hangs onto the Kong.
For the descent, the person with the Grigri raps on single strand, followed by the person with the Gigi on both strands.
Good idea if you know the belays are going to be good for direct belays. Here in the UK we'll often have to indirect belay so the leader would still probably want a regular device.
Great device. Invaluable on frozen ropes, when tubular devices simply don't work. But, just like you, I generally only carry it in summer when I'm going to be guide mode'ing two people, I'm the only one leading all day, and there's (almost) zero chance I'll need to lower them.
Saved my bacon yesterday, I dropped my ATC mid route and was happy I had the gigi for guide mode, luckily didn’t need to use it on lead belay but needed for the rappels
I like it a lot. Especially when I lead every pitch. So much smoother.
My elbows used to hurt for ten years (triceps tendinitis), and only lately have i figured out that pulling more with the index finger balances out my pulling movement so it doesn't strain my elbow. I think this makes sense because the index finger has an flexor muscle to itself, so if it's not flexing enough then you get extra load on the other flexor muscle connecting to the middle, ring, and pinky finger. So I just try to get a tighter grip on holds like I'm using a pull up bar - and i bring the thumb up also like on a pull up bar. It's almost like you're trying to overgrip. It's helped me anyway, and I'm breaking a 10 year plateau. That and gym climbing more frequently with shorter sessions.
I'd be interested in a review of the totem as a comparison, looks great, fig8 as well as double slots so could be a really versatile tool for someone who occasionally descends on old fat ropes, belays a pair, abseils half ropes etc. Obviously no tool is a 'do everything' but that with the GigaJul could be a close match. I did a route underground a while back, nobody could fit the static rope into their device so it was munter/Italian hitch into a Kayak. Fun route.
A couple of years ago I bought the ovo (similar device mentioned above) because a guy I was climbing with had a prerigged anchor on his harness including such a „classic“ belay plate. I was impressed by how fast he could rig an anchor because of his belay device already being attached. I ended up never using it because I got confused about the proper handling and i wasn’t able to find good instruction (didn’t see the guy again). So thanks a lot for your explanation, I might use it now, weren’t it for the giga jul I bought recently. I wanted to get rid of my second belay device I carried for abseiling in conjunction with the giga jul for lead belaying. 😂
You're welcome! I find myself using mine more and more, worth giving it a go :)
My dream device is a basic atc guide-like device but when belaying from above it does not add extra friction. So its essentially a gigi+atc all in one, weighting almost the same as a regular atc.
Another advantage is that there is no risk of dropping the Gi-Gi while rappelling, vs risk of fumbling the ATC. Great for getting down a big multi pitch.
Good point!
I tried one of these a couple of years ago and rules it out. We test it out in guide mode (on a climbing tower for testing) and found that releasing it under load was virtually impossible without setting up a sling redirect.
A DMM Pivot was sooooo much easier to lower.
As you say, if you expect to lower then use something else every time.
Release the second under load is cumbersome and possibly dangerous with any device except grigri. Just swap to another lowering method using a prusik with munter hitch to release the load
This is the perfect thing if you're a klutz and have maybe dropped your ATC halfway up a long multipitch once or twice
Good call!
I can see that being useful for a spare belay plate in case someone drops one on a multipitch, or if you're the only one leading. Having that to save weight to belay a follower up, and they belay you on a grigri or something. I may pick one up just to play with it, but I pretty much live by ATCs at this point.
Oh I’ve been hoping for a video about this. I already often carry an atc guide as well as a megajul to reduce friction belaying the second since I get sore elbows and shoulders if not. If this is even less friction that would be awesome. Now to the video to see if it’s worth trying.
Hope you liked it!
I like the grivel scream over the camp version (haven’t tried the King version), but it’s for much smaller ropes
Always such great vibes, fimling, beta and music every episode, love it! Could I ask what dog breed the boy is? I've been searching for my dream dog breed for years now and I think he's the one ahaha. I clould never think of the breed name. Thanks, love your vids so much, cheers from Canada ☺
Glad you like them! He’s a working cocker spaniel, great dogs!
@@JBMountainSkills i appreciate it!!
Isn't that just a stitch plate? ie. the precursor to a tube or bug belay device.
Kind of, but a Stitch plate didn’t have the holes for hanging it in a guide mode setup, plus the size of the slots make it a big difference in use.
I’m going on my first multi pitch soon and trying to find the best belay setup. I’m thinking about getting my partner and myself each a DMM Pivot so that it can belay from below, above, lower if need be, and rappel. I was thinking about the GIGI but am I right that the Pivot is a good cover all?
Yeah if you want a do it all device I’d chose one of: Pivot / ATC Guide / Gigajul.
Hey JB love your videos. I'm going for my first climbing trip abroad in italy next week, i'm all set for climbing things, i'm sweating the small stuff though, finger maintenance, hydration, the "nice to haves" stuff, what tips would you recommend? would like to see a video on it
I have a thought I've been kicking around, it has to do with direct belaying a leader off an anchor, the preferred method seems to be an Italian Hitch, I was thinking about using an old figure of 8 device, any thoughts? It puts less twists in the rope, and might be okay for belaying up a second on half ropes.
Whilst it would work up to a point you wouldn’t get the full braking power from as it wouldn’t be in the locked off position if the climber fell. I wouldn’t use it like this.
With the megajul in guide mode, we also add the 2 strands in the locking biner. Is it not necessary for the gigajul ?
Unlike the megajul useage instructions, the GigaJul ones make no mention of it.
@@JBMountainSkills have you tested the possibility of the rope turning upside down in the gigajul ?
“Tested” might be pushing it… but I can’t flip my skinniest single, 9.1mm, for sure you could at some diameter I guess.
@@JBMountainSkills thanks for all the videos. I have only been following you for a couple of months, but I have learned a lot. Keep up the good work
They should make it thinner so you can keep it in your wallet!