Basically this is a 2nd order LC filter with a frequency of 30Hz. This also explains why the "wobble" of your linear source (which is either the mains frequency or twice the mains frequency) is still slightly visible. If using plugs I would invest the few extra cents and install a fuse and an asymmetric TVS diode. The TVS diode will act as an reverse polarity and overvoltage protection and with overvoltage for too long will go short and protect the expensive capacitors and preventing the ElectroBoom effect.
Yep I've built several similar for myself and friends but 8 amp and multiple outputs I run my DACs ,PreAmps,Tubes,CD players, Streamer. Best Sound I've heard
A traditional pi filter uses a capacitor on either side of the choke. It's more optimized because the choke has less 'work' to do and the overall capacitance is the same.
A nice and simple solution, I was in the throws of making a linear supply, however I will have to try this. Apart from me replacing the barrel connectors with USB ones as my target DAC is an SMSL 5V device, I will probably add some clip on ceramic cores and a 0.1uf ceramic cap straight across the output jack. Those big electro"s and iron core inductor are great at low frequencies, but not so with very high frequencies. for best results with the 0.1 put is as close as possible to the output jack, with the shortest leads, if one gets into radio and RF you soon learn this stuff.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 Yes, definitely not something to hang off a computers USB port, the DAC I speak of has a separate USB port just for power, so I will have to carefully choose the power supply to suit. Some supplies are more happy starting up into such a load as they ramp up, so maybe happy, as opposed to just shoving the cap box into an already powered up supply. I've done something simular with a Raspberry Pi 400, so it could better handy a hard drive starting up, hanging off a USB port, without the cap I had all sorts of strange crashes etc.
I do agree I would not put directly on a ISB port on a computer or laptop, but a direct wall supplied power supply. That dead short will only be very quick, but a lower amp out will take more time to charge those caps.
Very good. A couple of things. The case must be metal and continuous [no gaps]. The limit on voltage is limited by the voltage rating of the capacitors. A fuse might not be a bad thing to include.
Not really. You can make a case out of plastic. I don’t see why not. And yes, limited on voltage of the caps. I do mention this on the video. A fuse is fine, but most units running g DC don’t have a fuse. And then the rating will change depending on voltage and current draw. A fuse would only protect the power supply in case of a short.
@@stereoazimuth I think because a metal case can provide a good EMI Shielding and the plastic can't. That's why the ground should be connected to the case too. But I'm not an expert by any means. I was also wondering what happens if I use a metal mesh just for better aesthetics. but it seems that they won't shield as good as a closed box at high frequencies.
Thanks for the video man! I was exactly looking for something like this and was wondering why there aren't any! Couple of extra capacitors in a ultra low noise PSU are not really worth the extra 150 euros. I'm going to build mine in the next days.
So for anyone reading this later! I tried it out. First I tried to measure the noise with a Smartscope digital oscilloscope. The results were quite disappointing. But I believe the oscilloscope was on itself quite noisy on that level (I was aiming for 5v for my Wiim Pro Plus). I even ordered two sets of caps only to know that I have the good Nichicons (they are quite hard to find, just like the hammond). Later I also added another inductor+100uF cap after the main caps trying to build a second stage low cut. Also a resistor in parallel helped to reduce some high frequency noise. I can’t exactly tell before testing with a proper high res scope. But still I don’t believe I could go below 10uV level by any means. And maybe for 5V there are cheaper options than the hammond. I paid 25€ for a Chinese one. But anyway I connected it to my wiim and call me crazy but I can really hear a better bass punch and deeper sound stage. 🤣🤣 thanks again for the video. It’s definitely a cool project and totally worth the time to avoid a +200€ PSU.
Basically this is a 2nd order LC filter with a frequency of 30Hz. This also explains why the "wobble" of your linear source (which is either the mains frequency or twice the mains frequency) is still slightly visible.
If using plugs I would invest the few extra cents and install a fuse and an asymmetric TVS diode. The TVS diode will act as an reverse polarity and overvoltage protection and with overvoltage for too long will go short and protect the expensive capacitors and preventing the ElectroBoom effect.
Higher power caps yes, because there would also be a big inrush current.
Slow Blow fuse
@@Douglas_Blake_579 The SMPS already have a fuse. Done.
Yep I've built several similar for myself and friends but 8 amp and multiple outputs I run my DACs ,PreAmps,Tubes,CD players, Streamer.
Best Sound I've heard
A traditional pi filter uses a capacitor on either side of the choke. It's more optimized because the choke has less 'work' to do and the overall capacitance is the same.
In a traditional PSU, yes. We are coming straight off the SMPS though, that already should have some capacitance on that end.
A nice and simple solution, I was in the throws of making a linear supply, however I will have to try this. Apart from me replacing the barrel connectors with USB ones as my target DAC is an SMSL 5V device, I will probably add some clip on ceramic cores and a 0.1uf ceramic cap straight across the output jack. Those big electro"s and iron core inductor are great at low frequencies, but not so with very high frequencies.
for best results with the 0.1 put is as close as possible to the output jack, with the shortest leads, if one gets into radio and RF you soon learn this stuff.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 Yes, definitely not something to hang off a computers USB port, the DAC I speak of has a separate USB port just for power, so I will have to carefully choose the power supply to suit. Some supplies are more happy starting up into such a load as they ramp up, so maybe happy, as opposed to just shoving the cap box into an already powered up supply.
I've done something simular with a Raspberry Pi 400, so it could better handy a hard drive starting up, hanging off a USB port, without the cap I had all sorts of strange crashes etc.
I do agree I would not put directly on a ISB port on a computer or laptop, but a direct wall supplied power supply. That dead short will only be very quick, but a lower amp out will take more time to charge those caps.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 Build one, try it, and see if you can kill a power supply.
Very good. A couple of things. The case must be metal and continuous [no gaps]. The limit on voltage is limited by the voltage rating of the capacitors. A fuse might not be a bad thing to include.
Not really. You can make a case out of plastic. I don’t see why not. And yes, limited on voltage of the caps. I do mention this on the video. A fuse is fine, but most units running g DC don’t have a fuse. And then the rating will change depending on voltage and current draw. A fuse would only protect the power supply in case of a short.
@@stereoazimuth I think because a metal case can provide a good EMI Shielding and the plastic can't. That's why the ground should be connected to the case too. But I'm not an expert by any means. I was also wondering what happens if I use a metal mesh just for better aesthetics. but it seems that they won't shield as good as a closed box at high frequencies.
@@ariansadafi4033 It is not really a ground connected to the case, it is the negative leg of the DC.
Thanks for the video man! I was exactly looking for something like this and was wondering why there aren't any! Couple of extra capacitors in a ultra low noise PSU are not really worth the extra 150 euros.
I'm going to build mine in the next days.
So for anyone reading this later! I tried it out. First I tried to measure the noise with a Smartscope digital oscilloscope. The results were quite disappointing. But I believe the oscilloscope was on itself quite noisy on that level (I was aiming for 5v for my Wiim Pro Plus). I even ordered two sets of caps only to know that I have the good Nichicons (they are quite hard to find, just like the hammond). Later I also added another inductor+100uF cap after the main caps trying to build a second stage low cut. Also a resistor in parallel helped to reduce some high frequency noise.
I can’t exactly tell before testing with a proper high res scope. But still I don’t believe I could go below 10uV level by any means. And maybe for 5V there are cheaper options than the hammond. I paid 25€ for a Chinese one.
But anyway I connected it to my wiim and call me crazy but I can really hear a better bass punch and deeper sound stage. 🤣🤣
thanks again for the video. It’s definitely a cool project and totally worth the time to avoid a +200€ PSU.