How To Replace SMD USB C Charger Ports With No Visible Pins - USBC Socket With Pads Underneath
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 เม.ย. 2024
- I have a Lenovo Yoga Laptop Motherboard with a broken USB C Port. This type of USBC has two rows of pads underneath it but you can't get to these to solder them. How do we replace these?
Part in where I desolder the broken port is here • Lenovo Yoga Slim 6 Lap...
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Richard
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Good job. Worth to check data lines communication as well and flip the USB cable plug to check if it also works.
this.
Good idea about flipping the connector. The laptop has two usb-c ports, this one is marked charger. You can't charge the laptop using the other USB-C, I tried that before replacing this one, but I haven't tried to see if you can send data via the charger port.
great job,very enjoyable video,great outcome,5*
Heya, really nice job you can't see a differance between the usb you just as example and the 1 you solderd really nice
Thanks
Those of us who where into quadcopters soldered many of the earlier usb sockets, over and over again. I only had a yinwah hot air gun at the time and I am very surprised they mostly worked. Now I have the quick it is so so so much better.
Excellent
Thank you
Good work, nice and clean 👍👍🥳🍻
Previously tin the connector pins that makes the work more easier.
There is a hair in your flux not in the soup 😱
I use my preheater to help remove the 4 anchoring solder points (on PS5/Xbox HDMI ports) I just leave it on the plate as I wick away - It really helps the wicking process for me, Rich. I use a super fat tip (D4) on my iron when wicking! I use the BC3 tip if I'm using my T12 iron. The D4 is if I'm using my Chinese JBC knock off. (AiXun T320)
^^ Heat resistant gloves help as the board gets hot!
super interesting :)👌
Big solder holes like that use a hot iron and a flick of the wrist or sharp tap on the bench and their clean, but I'm ghetto and a cheap date ....cheers.
Tin the legs on the port. Put the solder on the board, heat it from below with your air gun over the edge of the table until the solder wets, drop the port onto the pads
The Sorin (electronics repair school) method? Yeah seems to be the most efficient method but different folks and all that
@@Takashita_Sukakoki Could be... I earnt it from @JoeyDoesTech
@@brake_4_cake I' thought I mentioned in this video about the option of tinning the legs on the connector, then went with the method of adding an even thin layer of leaded solder to the PCB pads instead. I'm sure either method would work. I did see Sorin's method (both of them) and they worked too. I'm of the opinion the preheater plus hot air method I used with the port already soldered to the mounting holes means the USB port will always be correctly aligned and puts a bit less thermal stress on the PCB. Anyway I would say both ways work just the same, it seems it does not make any great difference to the result.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Ahh, it's more than possible that you mentioned it. My attention span isn't what it used to be before the stroke. Have to watch stuff in 5 or 10 minutes chunks and then have a break nowadays
Ever tried the mini hotplates? Any good?
Great job Rick, I know that type of job can easily go tits-up. As you say, the right Pre-Heat is the key.
That is my belief though I saw Sorin over at Electronic Repair School do this successfully without a preheater. I'm not sure if his method is particularly quicker. For those who don't have a hot air preheater like this one i use, you can use a hot plate instead or even something like a griddle toasted sandwich maker if you make a little stand to mount the PCB over it. Just use a thermocouple so you can see what is going on temperature wise, those little thermometer meters are about €3 on AliExpress so get a couple of them. Those laser barbecue themometers that you use to check if meat is cooked could also be used for this. Basically the preheater can be anything that can get the PCB up to about 100C-120C and the hot air will do the rest for you
❤
Absolutely the right way to do it with the preheater.Hheating the whole thing at once works 10 times fine, the eleventh time your boards bubles. Having said that, i'm sure the PCB's these days are way better then in the early 2000's
Did you solder the other 2 big mount points on the USB-C ?
Yes I did, just didn't show that during editing 🙂
Great work!
Jeez though, 20€ for a box of 10 of those solder wicks? Cheapest I see now in the US is $7 a spool on Amazon, unless I want to spend $65 for 25 of them from Taiwan on eBay :-/
Those Solderwick are not the cheapest. Having said that a pack of them last me six months or more so in the end the cost is hardly a consideration and after I was recommended to try these I don't use anything else
Here is the link I use www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006076105867.html?af=ler2022
surely the 317H would be the one to fit seeing the code number is basically the same
It fitted the PCB so it seemed like the best option for me too
15:30 hope u also did the other 2 anchor pins later? lol
Yes I did 🙂
Good job but how will do it differently i use leaded solder fill it hole the holes then i use hot air 350 degrees . I see the solder is melted. Then i put the port on it and then solder it .
Yeah I saw Sorin do it that way. I prefer to use a preheater when I can as I believe it puts less thermal stress on the PCB but this I think is a matter for personal preference. I also like to line up the component before soldering if possible rather than dropping on the PCB.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair yes you can when you have a preheater
@@stevedebeukelaer1424 Agreed. If you don't have one there are other methods that work. Having said that, a preheater could be something really simple like an electric griddle, a toasted sandwich maker, or a good size chunk of granite warmed up in the oven, so there's kinda no real reason not to have one 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair i didn't think abouth the alternative you summed up 🤔
Our American friends are not allowed big boy voltages which must be very frustrating at times!😂
I think traditional hand operated solder suckers are very good and cost next to nothing
I made a couple of videos using all sorts of solder suckers.... the results were interesting. And varied depending on what you are trying to do
th-cam.com/video/vDQjGe1aYp8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/EoLa9ebjwGU/w-d-xo.html
I hate them with a passion.
@@andymouse ok each to their own!
@@alanrichardson1672 Oh absolutely :)
@@alanrichardson1672 Watch my two videos on this topic - then do whatever works for you anyway 😁
Friend please take this as constructive criticism, nothing wrong with the job, well done. However please clip your nails bro.
How would one separate plastic cases like remote controls etc without leaving gouge marks like one does if you use spudgers. Long nails come in handy
leaded solder just has a lower melting temperature than non leaded
Yes, exactly this
Although I love your work. This method is the only way how to replace those USBC ports. Anyone who works with heatguns should know this. But good work otherwise, made it look easy for novices.
Be handy if you let people know the temperance airflow your gun it set to.
I take it youv'e never heard of a vapour phase then.
I did mention the hot air temperature, and the soldering iron temperature and tip type. I wouldn't say this method is 'the only way' as you state. A saw Sorin at Electronics Repair School do it two other ways. What this comes down to is 'what works best for you'. So I show the way I do it, others show their ways, people wanting to learn should watch and decide which they think looks best for them. If the really want to learn they try more than one method. Some people will think the quickest way is best, others may get the best results a different way.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair oh my bad. The great Sorin - love his work too. Although I've totally gone off Louis Rossman (too egotistical).
No standards on sockets is rather challenging. You buy an assortment box and end up with a load of sockets you will never use. I wonder how many hours are wasted by technicians searching their assortment boxes to find they do not have the one they want.
its insane. EU mandates usb-C ports, why not define a handful of connectors specs (through hole, smd, 90 deg, etc etc) and call it a day??
@@Nebbia_affaraccimiei How much useless stuff is stored by technicians? This is just pure waste, nothing green here or protecting the world.
@@Nebbia_affaraccimiei because it's not down to the EU to define how something is manufactured just the technology used for standardisation
@@alanrichardson1672 ever heard of CE marking? to get the certification you have to follow certain procedures. they couldn't sell it otherwise. they could just add this requirement.
@@Nebbia_affaraccimiei I am absolutely fully aware of CE markings. 👍
Just come in from underneath with hot air..
As this is a double sided PCB with a lot of very small components near to that area on both sides, I stand by the method I used, preheater plus hot air, is the best and least stressful for the PCB. Of course if someone can convince me otherwise I'm willing to learn something myself 😉
@LearnElectronicsRepair been doing these type of usb repairs for years, correct nozzle you'll never knock off components
@@waynetaylor2784 I can't disagree with you because what you are doing works for you. What I did also works for me. I don't see why that makes any one method better than the other 😵💫 To anyone wanting else try as many methods as you like.IMHO if you find one that is successful the do it that way and all will be fine.
It's almost as if it's scripted.
What do you mean?
@@mikebond6328 I have no idea how that got on here, this is the first time watching.
Please trim your nails and clean the solder iron and board; it's making me cringe back here!