@@hbarncraftworks3447 first proposed by Tormek themselves and proven correct by Dr Vadim. I haven't run tests to prove it's better but it makes sense to me too. 👍
One of my questions has always been 'where to place the jig on knives with big curved tips.' Thanks for the clarification with those curved blades. Your wood illustration makes sense. Mystery solved!
I usually don't worry about variation in bevel width with kitchen knives, but I sharpen a lot of folders, and in many cases they are quite expensive ($1k or more). When appearance is critical, I always use calipers to measure the thickness behind the edge at various points, and especially at the tip. Sometimes, due to expert blade grinding, distal taper, etc., a blade will have the same thickness behind the edge for it's whole length. If that's the case, and the knife has a sizable belly, I just don't use the Tormek. I'll either sharpen it freehand on stones or use a fixed angle system, which creates less variation than Tormek (but still some). You can reduce angle variation on the Tormek by pivoting the blade, but even that has it's limits, depending on the size and shape of the blade.
Yeah the Tormek has it's limitations but I'm very much a "use and make the best of what you've got" kind of guy. I grew up with no tools except a shifter and my dad's old set of pincers so as an adult I love all my stuff and try to get the most out of it. That's why I persist with the Tormek despite it upsetting some people - not you, others. As for rotating the blade, yes I've tried it a few times. Dr Vadim did a video on it (see link below) and I tried it but I instantly realised that it's no reproduceable. Ever rotation is going to be different to the last one and I was getting various facets. I'd rather have a microscopically different bevel width which no one will notice than multiple facets that people instantly notice. I've seen them screw up their face. Sometimes I've even wondered that if the tip is a smaller bevel (more obtuse angle) than the belly it makes it tougher and less prone to damage. I've had some very expensive hunting style (display) knives in the shop with hovering clients and they've never complained but I can see how it might annoy us knife nerds who do notice it. Sometimes I guess clients just assume that's the way it's suppose to be and I'm fine with that. Sometimes I can get it wider to match the rest of the knife by pausing and grinding it for longer than the main knife. In every case though the customer leaves with a razor sharp knife that does all the paper tricks and they're very happy, often ecstatic but try to get away with that crap at a knife show and the snobs will have my head. Sharpening CONVEX knives on Tormek - Knife Grinder's Australia th-cam.com/video/6q5Tj48kDh4/w-d-xo.html
Hi mate great videos ,i have a t4 and have a question for you please. Why do you not use the tormek paste for the leather wheel? And what is the product that you are using? Cheers Paul
Hi Paul, Tormek paste is too coarse, too messy and way too expensive. I use Veritas chrome oxide bar. It provides (in my view) superior results, a finer edge, is only slightly messy (a few crumbs fall off the wheel occassionally) and lasts for billions of years. Check out my latest video here where I explain my entire knife sharpening process th-cam.com/video/TNp4K7KLfbk/w-d-xo.html Welcome to the channel, I look forward to more questions and comments.
I see you use the green honing bar. Much cheaper than Tormek paste. Just as effective as the paste? I seem to remember Dr. Vadim did a test and came to the conclusion it was more effective than the diamond paste. Is my memory correct?
@@JamesFunkify it works perfectly, yes and very effective. It's all I use these days and gets me great results. The Tormek paste is too messy, too coarse and too expensive. The green bars last forever. I've never used diamond spray so can't compare.
Lovely, Baz. It is so calming watching you sharpening a knife. Thanks for sharing.
You should probably do a DVD for insomniacs.
I found it interesting that you started honing on the opposite side of the burr. Makes sense! Thanks.
@@hbarncraftworks3447 first proposed by Tormek themselves and proven correct by Dr Vadim. I haven't run tests to prove it's better but it makes sense to me too. 👍
I appreciate your thorough and well explained technique. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Ken. Your feedback is valuable and appreciated.
One of my questions has always been 'where to place the jig on knives with big curved tips.' Thanks for the clarification with those curved blades. Your wood illustration makes sense. Mystery solved!
I usually don't worry about variation in bevel width with kitchen knives, but I sharpen a lot of folders, and in many cases they are quite expensive ($1k or more). When appearance is critical, I always use calipers to measure the thickness behind the edge at various points, and especially at the tip. Sometimes, due to expert blade grinding, distal taper, etc., a blade will have the same thickness behind the edge for it's whole length. If that's the case, and the knife has a sizable belly, I just don't use the Tormek. I'll either sharpen it freehand on stones or use a fixed angle system, which creates less variation than Tormek (but still some). You can reduce angle variation on the Tormek by pivoting the blade, but even that has it's limits, depending on the size and shape of the blade.
Yeah the Tormek has it's limitations but I'm very much a "use and make the best of what you've got" kind of guy. I grew up with no tools except a shifter and my dad's old set of pincers so as an adult I love all my stuff and try to get the most out of it. That's why I persist with the Tormek despite it upsetting some people - not you, others.
As for rotating the blade, yes I've tried it a few times. Dr Vadim did a video on it (see link below) and I tried it but I instantly realised that it's no reproduceable. Ever rotation is going to be different to the last one and I was getting various facets. I'd rather have a microscopically different bevel width which no one will notice than multiple facets that people instantly notice. I've seen them screw up their face.
Sometimes I've even wondered that if the tip is a smaller bevel (more obtuse angle) than the belly it makes it tougher and less prone to damage. I've had some very expensive hunting style (display) knives in the shop with hovering clients and they've never complained but I can see how it might annoy us knife nerds who do notice it. Sometimes I guess clients just assume that's the way it's suppose to be and I'm fine with that. Sometimes I can get it wider to match the rest of the knife by pausing and grinding it for longer than the main knife.
In every case though the customer leaves with a razor sharp knife that does all the paper tricks and they're very happy, often ecstatic but try to get away with that crap at a knife show and the snobs will have my head.
Sharpening CONVEX knives on Tormek - Knife Grinder's Australia
th-cam.com/video/6q5Tj48kDh4/w-d-xo.html
I am oh so carefully watching this video!
@@swingbelly lots of info in this one.
Hi mate great videos ,i have a t4 and have a question for you please. Why do you not use the tormek paste for the leather wheel? And what is the product that you are using? Cheers Paul
Hi Paul, Tormek paste is too coarse, too messy and way too expensive. I use Veritas chrome oxide bar. It provides (in my view) superior results, a finer edge, is only slightly messy (a few crumbs fall off the wheel occassionally) and lasts for billions of years. Check out my latest video here where I explain my entire knife sharpening process th-cam.com/video/TNp4K7KLfbk/w-d-xo.html
Welcome to the channel, I look forward to more questions and comments.
I see you use the green honing bar. Much cheaper than Tormek paste. Just as effective as the paste? I seem to remember Dr. Vadim did a test and came to the conclusion it was more effective than the diamond paste. Is my memory correct?
@@JamesFunkify it works perfectly, yes and very effective. It's all I use these days and gets me great results. The Tormek paste is too messy, too coarse and too expensive. The green bars last forever. I've never used diamond spray so can't compare.