Great Vid!!! What made you decide to consult the manual to find signal and ground on the Escape? DIYers dont usually have manuals so I was wondering if probing multy wired sensors with a volt meter is still ok in tnis situation?
I was an automotive instructor for 31 years and combined 40 years as a mechanic. I am lucky enough to have access to a good manual resource, so it definitely helps. :). Thank you for your kind comments. Best of wishes. Enjoy your DIY work.
Does the MAF connector receive power from the battery before the plug in? thats what im trying to learn is sequence of operation the direction form the battery. sometimes seems confusing if it goes to the PCM first or from the battery first. once i learn this it seems I can understand left to roight back and forth where to put the blame if before or after any connections
You will have to consult a specific wiring diagram pertaining to your vehicle to be clear of the circuit, and it will depend on how many wires you have with your sensor. Generally, there is a wire supplying voltage from the fuse and relay panel and a ground and signal wire from the ECM. Other wires are for the air temperature sensor separate or within the MAF sensor.
I have an 04 Vortec 4.3. My old MaF is reading around 9 to 10g/s at idle. Replaced it and new one is reading 7-8g/s. O2 shows bank 1&2 rich trims. Short and long fuel trims show -25. Replaced spider injection as well. Still getting same codes MAF p0101 and P172/175. Can MAP cause the higher air flow?
@@SubePelayo928 That is high for idle. I would try temporarily disconnecting the map and running it to see what happens to your readings. Definitely check your engine to body ground/s, and ECM's ground for voltage drop and resistance as looseness or corrosion can skew your sensors' ability to read correctly. Also it is worth checking the MAF sensor to ECM wire integrity. A loose pin between the MAF or ECM in the connectors can wreak havoc on readings. It is worth as well checking for vacuum leaks.
@@bensiemers5094 disconnecting the MAF shows the default 1.92 g/s and all fuel trims are close to 0. I’ll run through the wiring today to check for splits or cracks. I recently had the motor pulled and rebuilt. I put all the grounds back on during install. I’ll check for vacuum leaks too with a fog tester. I replaced all the vacuum lines too. But, a vacuum leak wouldn’t cause a rich reading? Or would it?
@@SubePelayo928 A vacuum leak will cause a lean condition and the map will pick this up and could potentially, as well, skew the MAF readings. I would think the Fuel trims would normally reflect that but odd things happen. A stuck or dirty EGR valve can also cause these issues. Hoses, manifold, plenum leaks, PCV/crankcase ventilation leaks, a stuck purge valve all could be culprits, if wiring is okay.
Hi, I am in the process of repairing the mass air flow sensor connector wiring. As a result of the mice messing around, I cut the wires off the connector side, leaving approximately two inches for each wire attached to the connector. I thought each wire was a different color, but I was surprised to find two wires of the same color. I drive a 2006 Infiniti M35 with a maf sensor that has 5 wires in this order from left to right: red, black/white, white, yellow/green, black/white, so I connected the 3 different colored wires and was left confused about the two Of the same color. I tried connecting this to this and vice versa and I did not feel any difference. I also tested them with a multimeter and they both gave the same measurement. So if you have any idea or suggestion that can help, I would be appreciative. thank you
It is very possible that the 2 black white wires are both ground wires that down the line connect to the same place. If this is the case, it wouldn't make a difference on connection. If you can search for and locate a wiring diagram, you can verify this assumption.
@@bensiemers5094 thanks for the reply, yeah man that's what I thought However, I did not have absolute confidence to make a final decision without hearing opinions from other people thanks very much
Just one note. Disconnect your connector momentarily, key off and measure the resistance between the two black and white wires with an ohm meter. If they are down near 0 to .3 ohms, that is a good condition that they are common to each other.
@@bensiemers5094 ok, then let me give you the reading of all wires and you tell if it's a proper reading so I can solder them. because I've had a couple misfires on bank 1 while I was thinking that the MAF has some to do with. first I had cylinder 5 now 1 . ok with connector disconnected ignition off testing the power wire and the ground next to it gave me 441 ohms, testing power and the other ground 441 ohms, the yellow wire with each ground 1290 ohms, the white one which might be the maf signal gave none, now here is the voltage test with ignition switched to on position. yellow 4.83 v, both black 0.01 v, red 12 v, and some change, the white one 1.50 v
Cam someone tell me what is this P0103 code high MAF frq means. It came out of nowhere on my 2011 9-5 Saab Turbo which is the same Powertrain used in 2010-11 cadallic SRX AwD. Yes a purchased new MAF... Could it be the ECM/PCM
Hi there, please i have a 2014 Holden Captiva diesel i crank it no start, but when i disconnect the mass airflow sensor and start again straight away start i get a new one replace but still same problem do you know why??
Though I have offered some suggestions on this site, it is not easy to provide sound advice without a vehicle in front of me. If there are trouble codes, they would need to be followed up on to see if it is a problem outside of your MAF sensor circuit. However, your new MAF sensor could also be defective, or your wiring integrity going to the sensor could possibly be faulty. In that case, further specific testing of those circuits would be required.
Good morning Sir..A problem with my Honda jazz car 2005..Module ,Resistor and 2 oxygens sensors replaced..Still problem of heater.Can you help me..Thanks...Merci
It is difficult to do an online diagnosis without assessing the car directly and performing various tests such as fuel pressure, exhaust restriction, compression assessment, ignition, etc, but if you indicate what is going on and what codes you may have, I may be able to suggest an approximate direction.
Thank you! That is a great question. Many vehicles will have a 5 volt return signal voltage when the sensor is unplugged. Once plugged in, however, this will change and vary depending on engine load due to the varied resistance going through the sensor. Some vehicles, however, will use a hz signal on the return wire, and although you can read a voltage on that wire, it won't be very responsive to engine load changes, so the HZ selection must be used on a multimeter to pick it up. The 12 volts that you may be referring to is the actual power feed in the sensor. There may be vehicles out there, though, with up to 12-volt signal return since there are so many different manufacturers, in the world. I am just not presently aware of one at this point. :)
Thanks for recording this very useful video.
Thank you for the kind comments. :)
Great class amigo thank you very much for sharing
My pleasure
Great Vid!!! What made you decide to consult the manual to find signal and ground on the Escape? DIYers dont usually have manuals so I was wondering if probing multy wired sensors with a volt meter is still ok in tnis situation?
I was an automotive instructor for 31 years and combined 40 years as a mechanic. I am lucky enough to have access to a good manual resource, so it definitely helps. :). Thank you for your kind comments. Best of wishes. Enjoy your DIY work.
What if you didn't get a reading on The Hertz is the mass flow sensor bad does anybody know thanks
What if you didn't get a reading on the hurts does that mean the mass flow sensor is bad does anybody know thanks for your help
Does the MAF connector receive power from the battery before the plug in? thats what im trying to learn is sequence of operation the direction form the battery. sometimes seems confusing if it goes to the PCM first or from the battery first. once i learn this it seems I can understand left to roight back and forth where to put the blame if before or after any connections
You will have to consult a specific wiring diagram pertaining to your vehicle to be clear of the circuit, and it will depend on how many wires you have with your sensor. Generally, there is a wire supplying voltage from the fuse and relay panel and a ground and signal wire from the ECM. Other wires are for the air temperature sensor separate or within the MAF sensor.
I have an 04 Vortec 4.3. My old MaF is reading around 9 to 10g/s at idle. Replaced it and new one is reading 7-8g/s. O2 shows bank 1&2 rich trims. Short and long fuel trims show -25. Replaced spider injection as well. Still getting same codes MAF p0101 and P172/175. Can MAP cause the higher air flow?
@@SubePelayo928 That is high for idle. I would try temporarily disconnecting the map and running it to see what happens to your readings. Definitely check your engine to body ground/s, and ECM's ground for voltage drop and resistance as looseness or corrosion can skew your sensors' ability to read correctly. Also it is worth checking the MAF sensor to ECM wire integrity. A loose pin between the MAF or ECM in the connectors can wreak havoc on readings. It is worth as well checking for vacuum leaks.
@@bensiemers5094 disconnecting the MAF shows the default 1.92 g/s and all fuel trims are close to 0. I’ll run through the wiring today to check for splits or cracks. I recently had the motor pulled and rebuilt. I put all the grounds back on during install. I’ll check for vacuum leaks too with a fog tester. I replaced all the vacuum lines too. But, a vacuum leak wouldn’t cause a rich reading? Or would it?
@@SubePelayo928 A vacuum leak will cause a lean condition and the map will pick this up and could potentially, as well, skew the MAF readings. I would think the Fuel trims would normally reflect that but odd things happen. A stuck or dirty EGR valve can also cause these issues. Hoses, manifold, plenum leaks, PCV/crankcase ventilation leaks, a stuck purge valve all could be culprits, if wiring is okay.
Hi, I am in the process of repairing the mass air flow sensor connector wiring. As a result of the mice messing around, I cut the wires off the connector side, leaving approximately two inches for each wire attached to the connector. I thought each wire was a different color, but I was surprised to find two wires of the same color. I drive a 2006 Infiniti M35 with a maf sensor that has 5 wires in this order from left to right: red, black/white, white, yellow/green, black/white, so I connected the 3 different colored wires and was left confused about the two Of the same color. I tried connecting this to this and vice versa and I did not feel any difference. I also tested them with a multimeter and they both gave the same measurement. So if you have any idea or suggestion that can help, I would be appreciative. thank you
It is very possible that the 2 black white wires are both ground wires that down the line connect to the same place. If this is the case, it wouldn't make a difference on connection. If you can search for and locate a wiring diagram, you can verify this assumption.
@@bensiemers5094 thanks for the reply, yeah man that's what I thought However, I did not have absolute confidence to make a final decision without hearing opinions from other people thanks very much
Just one note. Disconnect your connector momentarily, key off and measure the resistance between the two black and white wires with an ohm meter. If they are down near 0 to .3 ohms, that is a good condition that they are common to each other.
@@bensiemers5094 they were down to 0
@@bensiemers5094 ok, then let me give you the reading of all wires and you tell if it's a proper reading so I can solder them. because I've had a couple misfires on bank 1 while I was thinking that the MAF has some to do with. first I had cylinder 5 now 1 . ok with connector disconnected ignition off testing the power wire and the ground next to it gave me 441 ohms, testing power and the other ground 441 ohms, the yellow wire with each ground 1290 ohms, the white one which might be the maf signal gave none, now here is the voltage test with ignition switched to on position. yellow 4.83 v, both black 0.01 v, red 12 v, and some change, the white one 1.50 v
Cam someone tell me what is this P0103 code high MAF frq means. It came out of nowhere on my 2011 9-5 Saab Turbo which is the same Powertrain used in 2010-11 cadallic SRX AwD. Yes a purchased new MAF... Could it be the ECM/PCM
This may help. th-cam.com/video/0xG0McBLz2k/w-d-xo.html
There are multiple things that can cause this.
Hi there, please i have a 2014 Holden Captiva diesel i crank it no start, but when i disconnect the mass airflow sensor and start again straight away start i get a new one replace but still same problem do you know why??
Though I have offered some suggestions on this site, it is not easy to provide sound advice without a vehicle in front of me. If there are trouble codes, they would need to be followed up on to see if it is a problem outside of your MAF sensor circuit. However, your new MAF sensor could also be defective, or your wiring integrity going to the sensor could possibly be faulty. In that case, further specific testing of those circuits would be required.
Good morning Sir..A problem with my Honda jazz car 2005..Module ,Resistor and 2 oxygens sensors replaced..Still problem of heater.Can you help me..Thanks...Merci
It is difficult to do an online diagnosis without assessing the car directly and performing various tests such as fuel pressure, exhaust restriction, compression assessment, ignition, etc, but if you indicate what is going on and what codes you may have, I may be able to suggest an approximate direction.
Thank you
Great video
thanks
well done/ explained
Mine reads 0.34-0.44 at idle warmed up lol. I think its bad, already tried cleaning it.
Thanks...
I thought the power will be 5 volt. Why not as most sensor are
Again how can I know if is digital or analogue before testing
Moshitoa south Africa
Thank you! That is a great question. Many vehicles will have a 5 volt return signal voltage when the sensor is unplugged. Once plugged in, however, this will change and vary depending on engine load due to the varied resistance going through the sensor. Some vehicles, however, will use a hz signal on the return wire, and although you can read a voltage on that wire, it won't be very responsive to engine load changes, so the HZ selection must be used on a multimeter to pick it up. The 12 volts that you may be referring to is the actual power feed in the sensor. There may be vehicles out there, though, with up to 12-volt signal return since there are so many different manufacturers, in the world. I am just not presently aware of one at this point. :)
Explication français
9o455 code😊