180cc 3d printed engine RUNS until failure!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- Now that the engine is running really good, there is a couple of things I can do to improve it and make it run longer. The first thing is, I need to make aluminum valve spring retainers, And then I need an aluminum piston and bearing bronze connecting rod.
Please make sure to subscribe and leave a like on this video, I want to buy a milling machine so that I can make even more homemade parts!!!
Thank you for watching!!!!
This project is insane. I love it!
showing all the incremental changes makes a project like this actually feel approachable.
Thank you!! I definitely think approaching 1 thing at a time makes this way easier!
Make your life easier and get a corded drill to turn the engine over, also if the carb is leaking fuel you probably need to adjust the float so it cuts off fuel earlier.
I like pull starting it, I could use a drill, but if the engine backfires I will loose my wrist.🤣 I actually didn’t notice it was dripping fuel, but I had the same issue with the previous carburetor that was the same one.
Thank you for watching!!
@@ProjectLMZ you won't hurt yourself if you use the slip clutch on the drill. those ropes are dangerous because they can pull you in. it's why they're not used on mowers anymore.
Man good job on that flywheel. It makes this engine like 10x less sketchy.
I agree! It doesn’t feel like it is about a shake itself apart!
Thank you for watching!!
You really got talent to get that engine next step could be cast aluminium crankshaft case
For now I am going to leave the crank case, seems to hold up fine, but I am going to upgrade the piston and con rod to aluminum, as they’re under more stress.
Thank you for watching!!!
@@ProjectLMZ that may be a better idea by the way you got a new subscriber😉
@@merijnleenaerts7107 thank you!! I appreciate it very much much!!
I really love this project! A real post-apocalyptic job. A couple of thoughts:
Using a glass container for a fuel tank is a hilarious design choice, especially with all of the vibration. Consider mounting it to your workbench using a longer fuel line so the vibrations don't bounce it around as much. Don't let your homeowners insurance company find out!
Consider a dial gauge and a spark plug hole adapter to find TDC. That's how we used to set timing on 2-strokes back in the olden days of the 1970s.
bro i think one day this project will evolve into a motorbike lol, your getting there man. hell yea!
I want to try to make a homemade go kart, In the future, I’m going to attempt to make a V-twin!
also the engine ran for 36 seconds, Impressive :)
Great job getting it to run. Are you familiar with the Molotov cocktail? Hot engine cylinder head + Gasoline = 💣😲
Great project, very impressive! When choosing a milling machine, pick the heaviest, beefiest one you can afford.. things like G0704s will get you started, but their lack of rigidity will soon become apparent.
Nice man, awesome to see it idling
Crazy to see that the con rod held up too 👍
I have consistently been surprised by it! I keep thinking it will brake but it doesn’t!!
Thank you for watching!!
Man you did a great job 👏 that flywheel and crank are a game changer 👏
It seems much happier to run!!
Thank you for watching!
Lol well done man! Sorry but it was funny how you kept going but got there in the end. Perseverance for the win! 👏👏👏
Thank you!!
Bro, if the engine compression for your own tan is large, you have to balance it with the capacity of your own homemade engine, I respect your hard work, keep up the spirit, friend 💪
I subscribed in the hope that you continue to explore your imagination with your ideas. Love this ❤
I will! This engine project won’t be done until I have 10hp out of it reliably!
Awesome! Getting much better. Crank runs much straighter. It amazes me ho much the old one flexed ! 😅
You could try using some lapping paste on the crank taper to help with the flywheel seating and staying put.
I think after that the valve train will be the weak link.
Great video. Full respect for your sketchy experimentation 😊
The flywheel actually has threads in it, it threads on like a nut, and then the nylock nut locks it in place. By the valve train do you mean the cam holder and camshaft? I think it will melt next as well.
Thank you for watching!!
That is awesome!! Now make it a V-Twin and build a 1934 Harley from scratch...lol
I am actually working on designing a 90 v twin, but I can’t figure out the right distance from the center point (the crank) to make it be even.
Thank you for watching!
I was so happy when the fly wheel broke off it wasn’t even balance. The new one works so well.
I can’t say I was happy, but it definitely put me on the right track!
Thank you for watching!!
Just randomly discovered your videos and must say: Very very cool work so far! I just subscribed and am excited for the next update :D
Coming soon!! This weekend hopefully!🤞
Crazy man! Good job. Try making a water loop through the cylinder (and maybe the head aswell if its not too hard) so it'll last longer and not seize
I have a 3d printed water cooling jacket made, but I am waiting for once I get the engine to run long enough to need it.
Thank you for watching!!
Still more durable than what's being put into modern cars.
love projects like this, fantastic work
Thank you!!
first time seeing your channel, new subscriber earned for sure!
Thank you!!
Wow! What a great video, really enjoyed how you made your replacement parts.
Get out of your Christmas PJ’s. 🤪
this is some good content bro
keep postin this stuff ^^
Thank you!!!
Maybe some kind of exhaust could make the exhaust valve to run cooler so it doesn't melt the retainer that quickly? Either way you would need to go full metal in order for it to function a considerable ammount of time. Maybe the connecting rod could stay plastic.
I have a feeling after I upgrade the piston to aluminum, the connecting rod is no longer going to be strong enough due to the increased load. The aluminum piston will be about twice as heavy, and I don’t know if I would trust this connecting rod with that. I could try to make an F1 style piston and stick with a plastic connecting rod, that would be pretty cool!
Thank you for watching!!!!
really feel like this could benefit from a larger flywheel. nice engine
Awesome video Keep going You will be Big you tuber soon my friend and I can say I'm a Early Subscriber
Thank you very much!! That means a lot to me!!
Thank you for watching!!!!
Nice progress, it runs pretty damn nice 👍
It ran surprisingly well for everything being homemade, I’m currently in the process of making more metal parts!
Thank you for watching!!
@@ProjectLMZ especially for an homemade engine!
The only "probleem" that i noticed straight away was the insane amount of blow-by, but overall it looks good!
@@SnipCola28 it’s actually not blow by, I talked with my uncle who is a small engine mechanic, my dad and a few other people in my family, and they have all agreed that it is just the crank case pressure, because the volume of the cylinder is basically the same as the volume of the crank case, the gases moving in and out of the crank case are moving at the same speed as the gases inside of the engine.
@@SnipCola28 also it does it when I don’t even have fuel or anything hooked up, when I was doing initial testing with the spark plug out and the ignition and fuel disconnected, it still did it. I thought it was blow by at first too, but the compression was just too good for me to believe that it was blow by, and the testing with the spark plug out proved it for me.
@@ProjectLMZyeah, makes sense, i thought i saw the gasses from the crankcase igniting at 14:02, but it was just the exhaust lol
very cool! also flywheels usually have keyways
I don’t really have a way to cut a keyway in this flywheel, but it’s not necessary as this flywheel is not controlling anything, ignition is run off the cam, and the flywheel on the inside is threaded, so the flywheel threads onto the crankshaft, and the flywheel nut is torqued onto that.
Thank you for watching!!!
@@ProjectLMZ that makes sense
You could definitely make a metal piston and connecting rod with the tools you have. A piston is just a cylinder with a hole in the side and a slit out of the bottom. You already have a lathe and you could figure out the hole and slit pretty easily I sure. The connecting rod is just a plate with 2 holes in it. I’m not sure how your bearings are set up but I’m sure you could get them to press fit into the new metal parts. I do like the plastic piston with a steel shield though.
The issue is that my counterweights are a set weight, So I can’t make the piston and connecting rod too heavy, and the connecting rod has to be like a normal engine, I’m going to have to make bearing bronze bushings for the Con rod where it clamps onto the crankshaft. The main issue I’m worried about with making a piston Is that since I’m using a steel pipe for the cylinder, when steel and aluminum come in contact under high friction and high heat environments, they get galvanic corrosion, and then they gall and friction weld themselves together. I could anodize the piston so that doesn’t happen but that would have to be in the future as my budget is basically zero right now.
Thank you for watching!!!
@@ProjectLMZ that makes sense. I’d have to see the internals again to be able to suggest anything. If this is just meant to be a fun project then I wouldn’t be too worried about galvanic corrosion but if it’s something you want to actually do work then I’d worry about it. The heat expansion of the steel vs the aluminum could be something to keep in mind too. I don’t remember how you have the counterweights set up currently but with how stiff the shaft you used on the crank is you might be able to counterweight the internals from the flywheel. If you weren’t aware some engines already do this. Keep pushing I’ll be waiting for more updates. I love this kind of content.
@@ProjectLMZ a small electric pump that sprays oil on the cylinder walls and on the underside of the piston would help a lot
the small 12V electric pumps (the ones with yellow-white pump and inlet and outlet next to each other on the front) can handle oil and can push quite a bit of pressure, they can push 0,1bar with air and 2 bar with water so with a 5w-40 oil or thinner it would work really well. I have it set up on my little router as a coolant pump and through a 1mm nozzle the liquid is going quite fast
@@Cjarka_ I think I would just run like a triple mix on two-stroke oil, simpler, and probably more reliable.
i think you should go for the 2 stroke, the piston will cool better and receibe lubrication, also simpler, and make the piston smaller diameter without changing the cc, that will decrease the force it makes in the cranck. Im working in a similar project and what im going to try is printing the head and cylinder as the same piece with the porting premade, then put inside the copper sleve, and see if it works. Also becouse it is in one piece you can make passages for water cooling. Really like your series and this video too, but now is not 3d printed. Much love
I tried two-stroke, but I got tired with messing around the with the ports, I just couldn’t get them right, I like the four stroke better anyways because in the future, I want to boost it.
Thank you for watching!!!
@@ProjectLMZ oooooo, cheacky turbo in there ahahahha, nice. Understood, I want to keep going with the 2 stroke design, and becouse i know you tried it... Can you give me advice on what to look for and be careful of. Semething else that you didnt mention on the videos? Thank you so much
@@mrmonguerwtf2976 everything with the two-stroke is pretty straightforward, for the crank case you just have to make sure it’s sealed good, for the head you literally just have a spark plug hole and that’s it, You have your transfer port that will connect the crank case to the intake port, and then the exhaust port. I had a lot of issues trying to get the ports right, with my Dremel I just couldn’t cut them right, I ended up messing up three or four times, eventually I just said, screw it and tried using it. It didn’t work. But if you have some way more accurate than I’m sure it’d be pretty easy, there’s not a lot of parts to two stroke.
Best of luck to you!!
@@ProjectLMZ Wich one way valve did you use on the intake? After the carb. Thank you for the answers!!
@@mrmonguerwtf2976 I actually used a balloon filler, it was a one-way valve that came with a pack of balloons I bought for making sterling engines, it was so that it’s easier to blow up the balloons, you blow in and then it would not let the air out. It actually worked really good as a reed valve for the engine.
Chinas going to try to hire you with all them skills
you bloody legend, wonderful engine
Thank you!!
Add an exhaust and a muffler or sum bc its a 4 stroke it needs an exhaust to run better and its lowkey better for the engine to have a exhaust so the airflow can go thru the engine perfectly and dont causing problems with combustion bc you do have an 3d printed combustion engine dude😂 sick project man its awsome but yea get an exhaust with an silincer and a better guide tensioner and u be good😂🫡💯
I was going to put an exhaust manifold on it, but I don’t have any 90 degree copper elbows, and I want to look cool too. It should have an exhaust in the next video.
I definitely need chain guides, as it fell off of the sprocket 2 times now.
Thank you for watching!!!
This is fire!
Definitely OSHA approved.
Most certainly! Would never violate OSHA🤣
I would add a exhaust to it because your not gonna hold compression for very long with your valves burning and the back pressure should help the engine run better
I don’t have any 90° elbows for 3/4” ID copper pipe, but hopefully I will have an exhaust on it in the next video!
Thank you for watching!!!
algorithm brought me here today. super impressed. just curious, why would you not 3d print the piston and rod, then use the 3dprinted piston and rod in a bucket of sand to sand-cast metal ones? dunno if maybe you tried this in another video already, i just got here, but it seems like you gotta look at where your most likely failure points are going to be and beef them up beyond normal use-case parameters. also as a fellow amateur engineer i'll share a concept that i hold near to my heart.... you're going to have a fail point somewhere, there is no 100% reliable. engineer it so that whatever the weakest part is on the system, it's something cheap and easy to get to. build like honda, not like jaguar.
Thanks for stopping by! I have future plans to cast them, but I am a bit worried about using an aluminum piston with a steel cylinder, I’m a bit worried about galvanic corrosion. Do you have any ideas on that? Other than that, I’m actually working on 3-D printing the template for casting the piston right now!
Thank you for watching!!!
You may want to avoid leaving metal in the crucible... when it cools it can expand and crack the crucible
When I said there was still some in the crucible I meant like the stuff that gets stuck to the walls, cast iron for some reason likes to get stuck to the walls of the crucible.
Thank you for watching!
this is an awsome build, the fact that it ran for so long with printed parts is amazing, i would love to see this thing powering something sometime, your machining and fabricating skills are amazing, with it running you can start tuning 😁, your throttle response was kinda crap, im thinking you might have some sort of fuel delivery problem, cuz when it started on the spray it revved up really high but when you tried giving some throttle with the carb nothing much happened, maybe try fiddling with your carb, anyway I'm sure you've seen camden bowens engine on youtube and he seemed to get a lot of attention for his 3d printed engine, try making a nice thumbnail for your engine and i think you can get much more views on your videos and hopefully you can get your mill, anyway this is a sick build and Im excited to see how it turns out 😄
I wasn’t giving it hardly any throttle, I was maybe pulling it like 1/8”, I was scared of blowing the Con rod out the side of the block again, but you’re right when I started it with starter fluid it revved up, so maybe I can give it more throttle. I was also doing really short blips of throttle, just trying to keep it running.
What would be a thumbnail that you would click on? I want ideas for thumbnails because I want to try to get as many views as possible, but obviously not Clickbait.
Thank you for watching!!!
@@ProjectLMZ the one you have now is good, but I feel if you can put some more effort into it, you might get more views, now thinking about it again I don't think It'll make THAT big of a difference, but what you're doing is still crazy impressive I think that you'll soon blow up and start getting monetised, also for the conrod if it's made of plastic then it might fly apart at higher speeds, what's the infill like on that one? maybe print it out really thick, then I'm sure you could run it fine. and try not to be worried about stuff breaking, if anything it's a good thing because you can improve on past weaknesses and you can see where issues actually are
@@jarc1505 the infill on the current Con rod is 100%, but if it breaks, it’s gonna blow a hole through the side of the block, and I am almost out of filament. I replace the valve spring retainers with aluminum ones and I have a new record runtime of 48 seconds in one run, which will be included in the next video.
@@ProjectLMZ maybe you could try metal casting in the future, if you have plastic con rods and metal pistons your going to have a HUGE imbalance and it's going to shake a TON, maybe in the future a cast rod would be a upgrade
@@jarc1505 right now it is a plastic piston and connecting rod, but in the future, I want to upgrade to a aluminum piston and connecting rod, but I am worried if I upgrade to an aluminum piston that the steel cylinder wall is not going to play nice, I think the aluminum piston is going to gall, and I think I might have issues with galvanic corrosion. I would like to do a cast-iron piston, but then I’m going to have issues with weight.
You said you wanted to get a milling machine, but why don't you order a piston if of ali express like Camden Bowen did in his previous video?
Great video by the way!
I like to make everything myself! I find it more rewarding.
Thank you for watching!!
Nice job
Thank you!
Very nice video 👍.
Nice video man
Thank you!!
thats awesome
Dang man soon you can put it to work😊
It’s close!!
Thank you for watching!!
@@ProjectLMZ maybe a go kart or a boat and thank you for making these videos
the timing needs to ignite fuel a bit earlier
like barley earlier (I haven't watch the entire video yet)
edit: I see you did fix it
if it ever dies when you give it throttle and it responds
but when you let off it dies
it means your idle is too low,
Yeah, I actually think this carburetor is slightly too small, I have the high idle screw adjusted all the way and I think it still is just barely getting enough fuel.
Thank you for watching!!!
Nice
three taps... taper, intermediate, plug... really makes a big difference on tapping... also tends to pull itself straight...
or ... learn to thread on the lathe. its scary. its satisfying. its what theyre intended for. then you know its concentric....
you wont get that diameter, those lathes dont have the torque at the speeds it runs... too fast for carbide even...
try a grinder... cover everything... spin the work by hand...
lol, the evolution from printed to fabricated metal... the exhaust valves guaranteed to cause issues. they do tend to glow red hot on a real engine under load... and the only way they can cool is the valve guides, and the seats.
could change tack... try a lenoir cycle or "non compression" engine... far less heat and strain on things... and its something... different. everyones stuck in a rut, it seems.
pistons are easy to make but the most important part is the ring grooves, and the rings. the bottom of the ring and the top face of the groove have to be perfect... as thats where the main sealing occurs. the gas forces them down, and simultaneously gets behind them and forces them out.
the hardest part is getting the pin hole bored straight and square. in all regards a lathe is better...
I like your idea for making a piston, I’m more worried about machining the inside, but if I get a good casting i shouldn’t have to worry, and for the pin, I would just measure from the bottom of the cylinder, then square in up in my drill press and then drill it.
Thank you for watching!!
you can get terrible cross tables for mini lathes and use your mini lathe as a milling machine
I will bet the tapers are not exactly the same an that's why it spun, properly made tapers on't nee a lot of force to hold really well together. Tightening the nut more will 100% fix it an it won't be a problem. I suggest putting a mark of some sort on the flywheel and crank an then marking the TDC on the flywheel so that you can take it on an off an you can align it easier purely for convenience, as you don't have a pin or a key to hold in position.
you could also print a starter for your drill that will disengage itself automatically when the engine starts
I personally would also make some sort of a simple exhaust from a pipe and a silicone hose to not fill up the shop with smoke, it's not healthy
I bet you can get it to run properly and sort of reliably quite soon... just don't forget cooling or you might need a few spare cylinders
Thank you for all of the info! I did tighten the flywheel up some more, about 60 ft/lbs, and I have hade no issues, it will be in the next video, but I got the engine to run for 48 seconds in one go! Then my camshaft melted, from the friction with the exhaust valve roller. I am almost done, making brass rollers, and I have already made an aluminum camshaft. I don’t think a 3-D printed attachment for my drill would hold up, this engine has an insane amount of compression, I don’t have a compression gauge, but I’m guessing it’s about 100 or more PSI. Even though I could water cool it, the issue is that my bolts and all thread rods bolt onto the cylinder, but now that I’m thinking about it, I could probably 3-D print clamps on and then I use RTV silicon around everything, actually now that I’m thinking about it that would probably work great.
3-D printed or homemade metal if I can find some pipe that would work, if I were to use pipe, I would cut it down the center and then weld a flange on each of the sides, then it will bolt around the cylinder and then I can make some thinner. Metal covers for the top and bottom, then I can weld everything together and when I assemble it, I just put red RTV around everything, I actually think would work!
Thank you for watching, and sorry for writing a whole essay!🤣
@@ProjectLMZ don't worry about it, sometimes you think of new ideas when you try to share them with other people, it forces you to think how to explain it properly and you usually find more problems to fix or a quick solution
I also enjoy "watching" how people think ... hehe
it hurts me to see the oil from the crankshaft just being all spilled out, i would make a 3d printed nut designed like a mufler aka like passage ways to not restrict the air but make it harder for the fluid to go arround it,and also pls add some type of cooling just bcs of how much water cooling can do, for example if u put a lighter under a ballon it will explode right? if you fill it with water and then put a lighter under it, it wont explode bcs it cant melt the ballon quick enough bcs the water is exchanging tempature so quickly that makes the ballon survive the fire, also nice engine, now put it on a mini bike XD
Could even bunch up some steel wool in the crankcase vent to make it more effective at stopping oil, or perhaps a one way valve and get a vacuum in the crankcase, although I'm not sure how useful that would be.
The oil spilling is fine for now, with a plastic con rod it’s not doing much, but I need a good size relief, because it builds a lot of crank case pressure. I am planning on adding water cooling in the future, but there’s not a good way to implement it with this design, because I have studs running from the top and bottom of the cylinder.
Thank you for watching!!!
cool video
Thank you!
sick video, are you going to make an exhaust manifold for it?
Yes, but I had no 90 degree elbow for 3/4 inch copper pipe on hand, I want it to look cool. probably will have an exhaust manifold in the next video!
Thank you for watching!!
@@ProjectLMZ sweet as, you're probably aware but just incase you're not,
an exhaust manifold will be very good for your motor because a lot of unburnt fuel is going through the exhaust which will overtime destroy the exhaust valve and may be why the valve spring retainer melted because the valve got so hot.
the manifold will stop oxygen from getting to the exhaust valve so that would mean there will be less fire around it meaning it will stay cooler
@@chedrwastakenI did not know that! Thank you! That could be why, but also the hole for the valve stem is slightly to big, so I also think flames and hot gasses are shooting up directly to the valve spring retainer. I’m going to cast an aluminum retainer today if it’s not rainy, hopefully it blows over, but I think next time this engine will run for a while!
I told You that heavier flywheel will do something!
I will give you that one, I wasn’t sold on it, but it helped a lot! It also probably helps that it is balanced much better, but it seemed more happy to run!
Thank you for watching!!!
put another pipe around the cylinder and put water inside the gap then you get a water cooled cylinder
thing still blows crankcase smoke like a freight train XD
Yeah, the crank case is a little on the small side, the crank case volume after you subtract the crankshaft in there is literally the same as the volume of the cylinder, so the engine is running the gas is in the crank case are moving at the same speed as the gases in the engine, and that’s pretty darn fast.
Thank you for watching!!!!
@@ProjectLMZ yuppers, cool content. thinking about it again, because of that small crankcase volume it might just be acting as a pulse jet almost, which is kinda funny. cant wait for you to put this engine in something
@@yukonxl5723 right now I just made an aluminum camshaft, next is metal valve rollers, then this engine will run until it completely melts through the plastic piston. At that point, I’ll have to find a suitable material to make the piston out of, if I use aluminum will gall itself and the cylinder walls.
@@ProjectLMZ i wonder how well a jb weld piston would work XD
@@yukonxl5723 I actually want to try it, I could 3d print a mold and cast it!
Looks like the engine needs some severe rebalancing I've noticed there's an awful lot of blowback coming from the filler neck for the oil if it's a four-stroke🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Have you got to the end? In the end I have a new crank and flywheel, super well balanced. Also I am pretty sure that there is no blow by, because it does the same thing without the spark plug in.
Thank you for watching!
cool
Is that garage54 on your screen? 😂
Yes! There awesome!
Love ya stuff ima try to do the same
Thank you!! Good luck!!
I want to Aswell but I don't have the right machines 😢
sounds like a briggs and strattron engine😂
Now that you say it, I can hear it! It does really sound like one, probably because it’s very similar in size to the Briggs & Stratton 5 hp!
Thank you for watching!!
@@ProjectLMZ i would really like to see this motor hooked up on a dyno 😂
@@Ikarus_fan_c56 I have plans to make a break dyno, I have to find the parts, it’s going to be similar to warped prediction!
letss goooo
You want to 3d print a cnc ? Ill give you my plans
Can it cut aluminum? If so, I’d be down, I could make a lot of parts, even with just a manual mill, But that would be really cool!
@aroundtheyardfun I does indeed cut aluminum 🙃 I've been working on this cnc for like 3 years or so on and off for no real reason other than i wanted to. It's in the GEN5 iteration. I haven't released the files yet, but you could test run it.
It is really big though, it does have the ability to be upgraded. It's supposed to be open source once it's like at a decent stage.
Working area:
X 550
Y 450
165mm Z travel ( adjustable Z plate though so it's like 14 inches of Z work area, you just have to like do it at as 2 jobs it's kinda odd, but its huge work area 😄 )
Price is like somthing funky for me becuase I didn't think sbout tracking it 😅 I didn't want to feel the pain of development, but I'd say it's like
2.8k for the gantry X and Z
500 for the table
And like 500~ 1k in electronics.
It only has a 500w spindle mount, so I'd have to wip us up a 1.5k watt spindle mount if you really wanted that.
I'm also still working on stuff, it accurate to like .008 ~ .01 mm range in aluminum with some software competition.
I do have full table schematics, wire diagrams, and all the STL files are ready.
It's a lot to print though, and everything must be printed to spec or solid at this point, lol. 75%+ infill and 5~6 walls and PETG or PC only.
It took me a week and a half to print the Gen 5 Y axis
I haven't made a real in depth video or anything. It's just been a vlog thing for me. Check my videos. I haven't done a GEN5 test yet with the new Gen 5 Y axis yet.
It's taken 2 months to get it together though, I changed to 15mm HTD belts on the Y and 36v big ass nema 24s with a new desgine for the drive train components.
The entire machine is belt btw, and the weight of this bad boy. Is heavy as fuck 😅
try to make the piston out of metal and try to enchase the cylinder so you can water cool it, anyways cool engine, very bad to the bone 💀
I want to put an aluminum piston in it, but I need a mill. But I might be able to cast it, not sure though, because the inside I can’t really machine on a lathe, because it’s not a circle. Water cooling would be cool, but not really a good way to implement it with this design, I have studs running into the top and bottom.
Thank you for watching!!
Water cooling is a stupid idea considering the crankcase is plastic
@@markopolo7651 not really a stupid idea, It would help keep the crank case cool as well, but I get your point. Even if the water was just starting to reach boiling temperature, the crank case would’ve already melted. But it would extend its runtime. I do want to make an aluminum crank case in the future, but that’ll be way out there. It’s actually working fine now.
@@ProjectLMZ it'd make sense with the aluminum case, try out some sand casts.
@@markopolo7651 I’m going to make the more critical components first, but in the future, I am basically going to have every piece of this engine metal.
1:35 У чела Гараж 54 на фоне ыыы
lowkey face reveal
If you look at my first video on this project, like almost a year ago, the very first video on it, I do a lot of talking and my face is in it. I just haven’t had the need to have my face in the past few videos.🤣
Thank you for watching!!
@@ProjectLMZ :) good work
Try casting a piston
That’s coming soon!! I need a mill first though, not sure when I will get one through.
Thank you for watching!!
@@ProjectLMZ you do not need a milling machine you can make a mold with your 3-D printed piston
@@Dnalor-sq7qi I was thinking about that, but I don’t know how aluminum would handle it. Only one way to find out!
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