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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.พ. 2020
- FB page: / hevort
This is the latest addition to the HevORT. An entirely new concept of bed support points kinematics. While allowing for free movement of the print bed attitude, it is keeping the print surface very solid and stable during the print. This concept will be tested for non planar printing. 5Axis printing
Let me know what you think about this solution in the comments :)
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WEBSITE....: www.hevort.com
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Amazing design, I've been looking for Z axis designs like yours for a while and never found anything that impressive! Waiting for the publishing!
Thank you! I am finilizing the bottom motor attachments and will publish shortly :)
Oro Yerta Can you reply to this comment when you post the files, so i get a notification? thank you
yea, this is solid. looking forward to it. do the MGN rails under the bed need to be that long? seems like ~50mm would be enough
Incredible, could be a game changer.
you're nuts my man. good stuff.
Outstanding ! ! ! Can´t wait for the imported parts to arrive. You made a hell of a job. BIG THANKS for sharing
Make sure to order POS8 rod end bearings too ;)
Potentially more useful for printing with an angled printhead (relative to the print's surface) than *only* tramming the bed.
Exactly the intention of this design. Non-Planar testing will be one of the task for this concept ;).
Tu es un grand malade....et j’adore ça!!!
Merci! Je le prends comme un compliment! :) et en passant: facebook.com/Hev-ORT-107969910648989/ :)
Could you make a short tutorial on how to constraint the assembly so that you can move around the components linked together like that?
Will try as soon as I have a bit of time. :)
Nice work, but I think better idea to position the head in any angle and allow it to print on any kind of rough surface. Also keeping the head always paralell with the buildplate would be a nice feature, if the material allows it.
this is exactlywhat i came for new innovative stuff instead of reinventing the wheel
looks very nice, but why do you mount your bed with 4 points instead of 3?
That is SO COOL...
If I understand correctly that auto leveling is a function of the board, not programmed by you - did you have any freedom designing the joints? Otherwise, how do you pass in joint parameters into the software? (I am assuming that the software calculates the level correction solution analyticaly - as opposed to adjusing incrementally - correct me if I'm wrong.)
I really want to build this printer! But a manual for what files to look at (bom)/print? There are so many in the directory.
This could make it really 3d. Are there any slicers that will utilize this feature for printing? Be excellent for reducing need for supports and amazing surface finishes.
very nice but it's an overkill spatially without a slicer SW that can facilitate the new " - xyz " dimension
Damn this person to hell. Just got my 3d printer for about a week and all I have been doing is modding it. I come across this. Now I want to build my own. Who here has felt the wrath of your wife asking why you keep printing useless figurines. This music got me hyped and inspired gj man.
This looks amazing. I was wondering if you would be willing, either on Thingiverse or your Grabcad page, to share the F360 model for your first iteration of this design using the lead screws? I know your printed part for that iteration are available, I was just needing to figure out extrusion lengths if possible. Thanks for your hard work on this!
I could share it, but honestly I dont recommend this setup anymore. The problem is that the 4 sliding rods / bearings are concentrating their loads towards the center cross. This will spread the vibration/oscillation to the entire print. Also, if unbalanced bearing friction occur, one bearing will pull up as the bed goes down and then spring back to position. This created massive Z wobble. I never published the Cad for this version due to these problems. I am almost done with the design for this version and am very confident it will work. Stay tuned.
This is superb. Currently gathering the files to print. What material is recommended for the printed parts? Are you using duet?
Thank you! :) For the printed parts of this build ABS or PETG will do the trick ;) Even PLA+ at a 35% infill and 3 walls would do. I have personally used PETG. Yes I am using a Duetwifi as well as a Duex 5. But if you start from scratch, Duet 3 might be a cheaper avenue as this single board will support more stepper motors than what you need for this build.
@@MirageC Thank you very much for your response. I really appreciate it. Great work on this design. Thank you
@@sampoteste Thank you! :)
hmm... not-an-engineer-question: what do you think, could one do without the 3 z-axis linear rails on the frame, if your ball screws are straight enough and fixed to the frame on both ends? How would they handle those loads in different direction?If 8-12mm linear rods can, why wouldn't fancy ballscrews be able to handle them?
could this be hypothetically used for 5axis printing ?
What about bed plate expansion? Looks like it will warp? Maybe kinematics coupling would work better?
Thermal expansion is managed by the 4 screws with spring. Same a most 3 d printer on the market. In case the bed frame expands too, the rails from the arm will take the load.
Remember that we are talking about a 1.5mm expansion on the diagonal of a 500mm bed going from 20c to 80c...
I see that you removed the 4 smooth rods at this current design. Is it because of over constraining issues? How were you able to not have any wobble or binding issues in the previous design? I really like your designs!
The problem is that the 4 sliding rods / bearings are concentrating their loads towards the center cross. This will spread the vibration/oscillation to the entire print. Also, if unbalanced bearing friction occur, one bearing will pull up as the bed goes down and then spring back to position. This created massive Z wobble. I never published the Cad for this version due to these problems. I am almost done with the design for this version and am very confident it will work. Stay tuned.
Ha-hah! And the soundtrack is awesome! =D And how is the sliser are doing? Are you making your own?
Every thing is progressing well :) you can join us to follow every step :) facebook.com/groups/hevort/
hey man! i'm looking to do something very similar, but I want to exclude the Z linear rails if possible (due to costs), my idea would be the 3 ballscrews mounted on bearings, completely locked in place, but your mechanism requires twisting motion on the ball joints, would there be a way to do something similar? maybe a ball on a conical hole?
Round slide shaft fixed to the underside resting on a pulley wheel?
You have slicer to calculate 3+ dimension printing?
Not yet. But I am trying something with the CAM module from Fusion 360. Winter project
damn the music is so dramatic xD But that bed is so overkill!
I'd probaly just use a ball sliding on a plastic thing in reverse using a spring as the gravity thing. would cost 1$ max. not as good but good enough! I am actually designing my own printer based on the hevo frame/parts (which I could design my own from scratch but I lack the money), Mine is the opposite of yours. super budget focused and also a huge focus on multiple extruders/tools (a tool changer)
I'm currently working on a tilting hotend that uses 1 pancake stepper for both hotends and uses a 9g servo to tilt! because my mechanism needs only an initial push to lock in to one of the hotends.
I own an Ender-5 and I print on a de-polished mirror. My bed keeps level from print to print because I keep the mirror attached. So I wonder what would make your bed go off level so often that you need this complex and costly mechanism...
I use several different build plates that I swap between prints. This leave the time for the part to cool outside the printer and I can start another batch right away. Enclosure printing at high temp can also induce variation on the printer structure. Really depends on your needs and personal preferences.
How to control these 3 motor?
You need a controller board that has at least 6 independent stepper drivers. (X, Y, Extruder, Z1, Z2, Z3).
I use a Duet2Wifi which has 5 drivers to which I connected an expansion board called Duex5. This gives me 5 additional drivers.
The function is defined by M671 command that will map the XY location of the lift points compared to the Nozzle 0.
ref: duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors
This seems overly complex, why not a standard Maxwell?
As mentioned below, I am intending to use this concept to test non planar printing by adding two axis to the print bed. This configuration allows for greater bed inclination.
Seem well designed, what is the use of this however? A good assembled and designed printer should not need any auto bed leveling.
Wouldn't a maxwell coupling like the jubilee bed mounts be a much simpler implementation with the same result ? github.com/machineagency/jubilee
Also, this does not allow for bed heat expansion..
Yes, the concept on the jubilee is much simpler but also less rigid. But the main point is that the allowable angle is smaller that what i am proposing here. The intent is to provide provisions for future non planar printing using 2 additional axis via the movement of the Z.
Look carefully, it does ;) The bed frame will not likely expand as it is not directly contacting with the heat source. It is mounted as any other 3d printer using springs and screws. Screws will accept the excess of bed expansion by simply move within their mounting holes. Dont forget that we are talking about less than a mm. Aluminum thermal exp is 23X10^-6mm/mm/C. For a 300mm distance between screws it 0.0069mm per C. So if I warm the bed from 20C to 100C that gives me 80C * 0.0069 = 0.5mm
Now split this distance in two because each screw will share the impact. Adding all direction will make a diagonal push to something still below the 1mm mark.
If the bed was hard mounted on the aluminum frame I would be concerned, but not like that.
to much parts wich can fail.
While cool, this seems to me like an expensive and overly engineered version of a kinematic coupling like the maxwell coupling th-cam.com/video/ekUkI9iWUoM/w-d-xo.html that completely misses the opportunity to allow for heat expansion in the bed. Joshua Vasquez did this on an auto tramming 3 motor z bed here th-cam.com/video/a9irK9rOUHY/w-d-xo.html on his Jubilee. I get the nonplanar bit, but how do you equate this to 5 axis printing? Do you mean in a limited capacity or are you going to add more points of freedom in the print head itself?
Thanks for experimenting, it's cool to see new ideas.
Thanks for the comment, The bed of this printer is mounted just like on a regular Hypercube Evolution. The thermal expansion is managed the 4 bed screws and springs that will simply tilt with the expansion. Remember that we are talking about a linear expansion of just over 1mm on a diagonal of 700mm that a 500mm*500mm bed has.
As for the kinematic coupling from the Jubilee, yes it works and is simpler I agree with you. But I still prefer my over engineered version which allows for a 30 degree bed tilt. This will be the limiting factor for eventual non planar printing. Head will not move therefore calling it a 3 + 1/3 + 1/3 axis would be more accurate.
@@MirageC Ahh gotcha. As for the 30 degrees bed tilt you can get that from the afore mentioned coupling as well. I understand though that if you intend to make use of that tilt in printing, your solution is optimal since you would have wear introduced in the other coupling with constant movement. I don't know of any slicer or so that makes use of this yet, but definitely an interesting aspect for future printing. As for the heat expansion, I am just in love with how simple and functional everything is in Jubilee so totally making use of that method at the very least. Kind of collecting ideas for a coreXY build.
It is an over engineered solution to solve a basically simple problem. You have to compensate only a few millimeters at most, not 10 cm!!
The RatRig solution is much better, simple, no moving parts, less friction, cheap and zero maintenance.
Remember: simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Only those with a deep understanding of the problem and that master their craft can produce a simple and elegant solution. The others come up with all sorts of monstruosities like this one.
I am glad that you fully understood our goal with high degree of tilt. Also glad that you took this misinterpretion as an opportunity to degrade the work from others so that you can feel superior.... I hope you enjoy the ego boost. Cheers.
So you implemented this useless feature (high degree of tilt) on purpose. Very clever indeed! If you are running out of ideas to show your engineering proficiency to further complicate your machine here are some: bullet proof enclosure (not to abort the print during terrorist attacks), gas powered heated plate, with fighter jet style afterburner (so that you can reach the printing temperature in less than 10 seconds and break all world records!!), compressed air cooling system, or even better liquid nitrogen cooling system.
Good work. I am sure that one day you will print the benchy in less than 1 minute. Another useless achievement, since the quality is horrible. And useless, of course.@@MirageC
I love the deseign, but it seems to be relatively complicated. I've seen a simular concept. May be a bit less solid but is way easier implemented by using the e3d cinematic couplings. Link to the a build is: y2u.be/a9irK9rOUHY
Thank you for your comment, I understand your point. E3D concept is simple and effective. The design proposed here is meant to be solid and stable but it is also meant as a provision for non-planar printing testing.
Honestly this is a shit concept. If you need this much adjustment range you have bigger problems.
But even if you disregard that, the whole concept of a kinematic mounting is wasted if you mount the bed to the frame by overconstraining it.
Thanks! I am happy to see that you understood how this system works and what are the goals of this project!
Cheers!
@@MirageC It doesn't matter what the goals are. No excuse for shit design.
You are entitled to personal opinion, I respect that. Now, where is YOUR design?
@@MirageC Can't show you for free. You'll have to pay for that.
Oh yeah sure, but you want to expose your intellectual superiority for free by degradings others work. I know you.
My piece of advice is, think about how your kids and the world will remember you.