I know this is an old video bit it was nice to know that someone else has struggles with these cv shafts out. Thought I was doing something wrong. Like vehicles most stay lubricant by the oil in the transmission or differential. Ive done my far share of these in various ATVs UTVs etc but this, a 2013 Ranger was kicking my caboose! But once I got one out I saw why they are difficult. They are in a blind hole. I used Kroil on the second one and let it soak for 30 minutes then took a wedge and a few good hits it popped out. Cleaned the splines in the differential and put a thick coating of anti-seize on the new cv shafts for future repairs.
If you buy the 90 dollar adr replacement axle they send you the upgraded super durt axle because they are phasing out the replacement.. the only difference is you don't get the warranty. It's a 180 dollar axle pr so tho. My stock ones lasted 6 years so if these last that long I'll happy buy again, won't need warranty.. super atv adr by rhino. The customer service is awesome give them a call! I'm installing mine now!
Replacing front right CV axle on a 2010 Stealth EV. CV came out in pieces all but the spline in the differential, it will not come out an to close to get a puller behind it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Is no one else here outraged at the lack of quality on Polaris's part that these even need to be replaced after less than 10 years? And how many hours on the machine? I am currently replacing one on a 2010 with only 376 hours!!! And the other side is going bad already too! Not to mention a tie rod end is also loose. I just am really disappointed these days with Polaris. I have a 92 Polaris 4 wheeler with over 6,000 miles and has been beat to crap, and all I have ever done is brakes. This 2010 just opened my eyes to how much they have fallen in quality through the years.
that was a perfect time to "upgrade" to a tougher axle. once you've seen heavy duty axles, you realize how inadequate the stock axles are on most machines.
I know this is an old post but won’t the tougher axles put more strain on the components down the line making them the weaker link? I’m currently needing a set myself
@@redbeard27 that can be true, that's why i never upgraded to OX u-joints on my bronco. I wanted my weak-point to be something that's an easy fix in the woods. Always carried a couple spare u-joints with me. Pull the driveshaft, drop the tailgate, and change the u-joint in a couple minutes. But with these atv/sxs machines, they are using ridiculously weak axles. My machines are an old 300 and a sportsman 500. Nothing with crazy power, so i'm not too concerned with stressing anything else really. Maybe with a newer 1000cc machine or something, the weak-point issue would be more a factor. And, depending on use and abuse. I just use mine for hunting and plowing snow. No shit-driving.
I know this is an old video bit it was nice to know that someone else has struggles with these cv shafts out. Thought I was doing something wrong.
Like vehicles most stay lubricant by the oil in the transmission or differential. Ive done my far share of these in various ATVs UTVs etc but this, a 2013 Ranger was kicking my caboose!
But once I got one out I saw why they are difficult. They are in a blind hole.
I used Kroil on the second one and let it soak for 30 minutes then took a wedge and a few good hits it popped out.
Cleaned the splines in the differential and put a thick coating of anti-seize on the new cv shafts for future repairs.
Procedures worked perfectly on my 900 Ranger after I oopsed and ground a CV to a pulp. Thanks for the great video, you saved my arse.
Not very often that i find the info i need instantly, my 2011,500 has those loose axle cups, great to know they don't need replacing right away.
Great video, great tips. Worked like a charm. Best tip was to get young helper involved.
Great explanation when it comes to the play at the inside of the axle.
Thanks so much for posting this. Made the job WAY easier. Great tips, too.
Great video. Love how you told us the socket sizes. Love dude love.
Great video. Easy to understand and you didn’t bombard people with over technical information. Thank you!
I know its 5 yrs later since the video was made. Curious how this aftermarket held out. Would you recommend it? Thanks.
If you buy the 90 dollar adr replacement axle they send you the upgraded super durt axle because they are phasing out the replacement.. the only difference is you don't get the warranty. It's a 180 dollar axle pr so tho. My stock ones lasted 6 years so if these last that long I'll happy buy again, won't need warranty.. super atv adr by rhino. The customer service is awesome give them a call! I'm installing mine now!
@@willroser4492 thank you so much for tge information. I will look into those now.
Replacing front right CV axle on a 2010 Stealth EV.
CV came out in pieces all but the spline in the differential, it will not come out an to close to get a puller behind it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Awesome video! Is it the same procedure on the 900 rangers?
Very similar, the 900s have only one long bolt on the upper control arm, but otherwise very similar
Thanks for the help man. You got any video showing what to look for when it's time to change them
How did they hold up.
Excellent video!
Is no one else here outraged at the lack of quality on Polaris's part that these even need to be replaced after less than 10 years? And how many hours on the machine? I am currently replacing one on a 2010 with only 376 hours!!! And the other side is going bad already too! Not to mention a tie rod end is also loose. I just am really disappointed these days with Polaris. I have a 92 Polaris 4 wheeler with over 6,000 miles and has been beat to crap, and all I have ever done is brakes. This 2010 just opened my eyes to how much they have fallen in quality through the years.
that was a perfect time to "upgrade" to a tougher axle. once you've seen heavy duty axles, you realize how inadequate the stock axles are on most machines.
I know this is an old post but won’t the tougher axles put more strain on the components down the line making them the weaker link? I’m currently needing a set myself
@@redbeard27 that can be true, that's why i never upgraded to OX u-joints on my bronco. I wanted my weak-point to be something that's an easy fix in the woods. Always carried a couple spare u-joints with me. Pull the driveshaft, drop the tailgate, and change the u-joint in a couple minutes.
But with these atv/sxs machines, they are using ridiculously weak axles. My machines are an old 300 and a sportsman 500. Nothing with crazy power, so i'm not too concerned with stressing anything else really. Maybe with a newer 1000cc machine or something, the weak-point issue would be more a factor. And, depending on use and abuse. I just use mine for hunting and plowing snow. No shit-driving.
good info
Nice video and well explained I do have a question you have a Instagram so I can send you ask a question thanks if no possible I understand