Dude!!! Thanks for this vid!!! Was very curious on the differences and have only been back into sabers about the last 3 and change yrs after about 12yr outta the saber scene so I had about a yr or so of catching up and researching!!! This is one of the most helpful vids I’ve come across, particularly you sharing your technique on the resistor soldering!! 👍🏾👌🏾 Anyway, sorry for the rant but again really thank you for your work and time to make the vid!!! This kind of content helps a great deal for hobbyists like myself learning to make and build sabers from scratch 🙌🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾🙏🏾!!! I’ve been following your shop on fb and IG for a few yrs now!!(not sure why I hadn’t checked for a TH-cam channel till now 🙄🤦🏽♂️ lol!)
Hello Justin, I have a quick question, hopefully you can help me. I am going to be installing my first saber soon and I am a bit nervous, as I'm sure many first-time builders are. So I'm just trying to get everything straight. I have a Proffie 2.2, so I've learned of that board there is already a resistor on the data line coming from the board. I want to wire the hilt LEDs and Blade LEDs in parallel, so since my data line already has its resistor do I still need to put a resistor on R1 (or whichever resistor goes to the blade's data line)? Thank you in advance, I hope you are able to reply. Great video by the way! It was very helpful!
you can choose to bridge the resistor pads if you already have a data line that is resisted. In the case of pixel data, you can have multiple resistors in same line and it will not affect function. No resistors affect function
@@TheSaberBay Yea... I have a Luke Skywalker hilt with neos for the switch box acting independently to the blade. Then I have neos for the crystal acting identical to the blade. Would those work for me?
You can watch other video of my channel to see them in action. The leds of the hilt side pcb are facing toward the blade. So even when you take the blade out you still get the effect that light(energy) is eminating from the saber hilt. It is not what illuminated the blade though. The pins send power and data to the blade, the blade has leds in it
So It seems if you are using another blade that already has a resistor on the data line you could bridge the r2 pads and just put a resistor on the r1,s?? Anyone?
Travis Jacobus bridge R1 and put a resistor on R2. Check out the manual you can see in option 1(blade illumination only) r1 has a resistor. Meaning that’s the path way to the blade. So r2 is the pathway to the pcb leds
TheSaberBay sorry for all the questions. This is my first time using these. In the shtok npxl V2 manual, for cfx, it shows a resistor on the hilt side R1 pads and the blade side pcb data pads. Could this be right?
A bit of engineer nit picking, but technically these are not neopixel LEDs. Neopixel is a trade name that Adafruit uses for the WS2812 series made by World-Semi. The LED's on this current version of the connector are WS2813B-MINI(the only model World-Semi makes with a square lens). While it may be compatible, it does use an entirely different IC driver and with that has different operating parameters. While Adafruit doesn't currently sell this specific model(3535 smd, so smaller than standard Neopixels which are 5050), they differentiate the series entirely by branding them as DotStar pixels. They may work just fine for all I know, but the distinction between the 2 types of LEDs is important when it comes to programming.
Ryan Lancaster we are aware of this but are using the term "neo pixel" as it's been adopted by the saber community for pixels and strips compatible with the major sound boards
Dude!!! Thanks for this vid!!! Was very curious on the differences and have only been back into sabers about the last 3 and change yrs after about 12yr outta the saber scene so I had about a yr or so of catching up and researching!!!
This is one of the most helpful vids I’ve come across, particularly you sharing your technique on the resistor soldering!! 👍🏾👌🏾
Anyway, sorry for the rant but again really thank you for your work and time to make the vid!!! This kind of content helps a great deal for hobbyists like myself learning to make and build sabers from scratch 🙌🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾🙏🏾!!! I’ve been following your shop on fb and IG for a few yrs now!!(not sure why I hadn’t checked for a TH-cam channel till now 🙄🤦🏽♂️ lol!)
Justin you're so brave! Soldering SMD resistors on camera! And you didn't curse once. ;) Nice job my friend. Great PCB designs
SpaceWindu hahaha thanks dude! I actually rarely curse but I do press my tweezers too tight and the resistors go flying 😂
Wow man, you have master soldering skills! Thanks for the vid!
Love these! Going to pick some up!
Thanks!!!
Perfect just bought this for the place plug option just wanted to see if it is capable of working for that super excited thanks justin
Hello Justin,
I have a quick question, hopefully you can help me. I am going to be installing my first saber soon and I am a bit nervous, as I'm sure many first-time builders are. So I'm just trying to get everything straight. I have a Proffie 2.2, so I've learned of that board there is already a resistor on the data line coming from the board. I want to wire the hilt LEDs and Blade LEDs in parallel, so since my data line already has its resistor do I still need to put a resistor on R1 (or whichever resistor goes to the blade's data line)?
Thank you in advance, I hope you are able to reply.
Great video by the way! It was very helpful!
you can choose to bridge the resistor pads if you already have a data line that is resisted. In the case of pixel data, you can have multiple resistors in same line and it will not affect function. No resistors affect function
TheSaberBay awesome. Thank you. When bridging pads do I need to use a little piece of wire or is just using solder enough?
@@ObsidianRen it looks like in vid should be right next to the d2!
Excellent question though!! I was wondering the same!!
Could you please make a video to explain how to wire the blade side of the ShtokCustomWorx pcb connector? Thank you
the blade side is more straight forward. data to strip data. positive to strip positive, negative to strip negative
whats the difference between eco and normal and also difference between 11 and 10 pin NPXL
The more pins distributes the heat better, more efficient and safer vs “power” currents
I wish I knew there were ones with the resistors already installed on them.. would have bought that instead.
ADD Me only the blade side pcbs with LEDs have the resistors pre installed
@@TheSaberBay Yea... I have a Luke Skywalker hilt with neos for the switch box acting independently to the blade.
Then I have neos for the crystal acting identical to the blade.
Would those work for me?
So I'm a little confused. Do the Pixel's shoot in the same direction as the pogo pins? Or do they fire out the back of the PCB?
Jakfan1 they illuminate the direction of the blade so they can illuminate the emitter I.e a blade plug
@@TheSaberBay I'm afraid I'm still confused.
You can watch other video of my channel to see them in action.
The leds of the hilt side pcb are facing toward the blade.
So even when you take the blade out you still get the effect that light(energy) is eminating from the saber hilt.
It is not what illuminated the blade though.
The pins send power and data to the blade, the blade has leds in it
So It seems if you are using another blade that already has a resistor on the data line you could bridge the r2 pads and just put a resistor on the r1,s?? Anyone?
Travis Jacobus bridge R1 and put a resistor on R2. Check out the manual you can see in option 1(blade illumination only) r1 has a resistor. Meaning that’s the path way to the blade. So r2 is the pathway to the pcb leds
TheSaberBay ahhhh I see I had it backwards. Going to read the manual now. Thanks a lot!!!
TheSaberBay sorry for all the questions. This is my first time using these. In the shtok npxl V2 manual, for cfx, it shows a resistor on the hilt side R1 pads and the blade side pcb data pads. Could this be right?
A bit of engineer nit picking, but technically these are not neopixel LEDs. Neopixel is a trade name that Adafruit uses for the WS2812 series made by World-Semi. The LED's on this current version of the connector are WS2813B-MINI(the only model World-Semi makes with a square lens). While it may be compatible, it does use an entirely different IC driver and with that has different operating parameters. While Adafruit doesn't currently sell this specific model(3535 smd, so smaller than standard Neopixels which are 5050), they differentiate the series entirely by branding them as DotStar pixels.
They may work just fine for all I know, but the distinction between the 2 types of LEDs is important when it comes to programming.
Ryan Lancaster we are aware of this but are using the term "neo pixel" as it's been adopted by the saber community for pixels and strips compatible with the major sound boards
It's getting to the level of "hoover" in place of "Vacuum cleaner" or "plexiglas", "perspex", etc. in place of "PMMA"/"acrylic".