I picked up a new customer by diagnosing this exact same problem. The first company diagnosed a bad computer as well and gave an estimate. The brushes looked good as well until I pulled the leads to check that they were traveling freely in the holder. They were all very tight in the holders. Ordered new brushes (I think from Crown) and they were tight too. The holders looked good so I ended up filing down the new brushes until they slid freely. Dressed the commutator and the truck has been running fine for the last 8 years. I never did figure out how brushes that must have been free when the motor was built became so swelled as to be tight years later. Good video.
I've seen that too but the brushes on the ones I've seen were arcing and the commutator was a little burnt. Installed new brushes, cleaned the commutator and it's good as new. This one threw me for a loop because the motor was running fine, until it wasn't.
This isn’t from the carbon brushes swelling. It’s from the metal parts of the brush holder warping from heat. Bad/weak batteries, over loading, bad cables, and lots of things can cause it. Not gonna say I never rubbed a little off the side of a brush so it slid better in a brush holder. Used to do it all the time on super high hour crown PC3000 pallet jacks
Wow, I would've went down the same rabbit hole and put a module on it too! I'm curious, if the cables were removed the minute the motor shut off, would the resistance be at least a few ohms higher than normal? Finally, as usual, another awesome and informative video!
Hi, We have a forklift Toyota Model 8FGU25 serial 44826 Has no spark on distributor, sometimes idle pedal work sometimes not, before turn on key ear diagnose on trotlebody now don’t move and show me on dash E ad-1 code, somebody know what happened? Please,
I picked up a new customer by diagnosing this exact same problem. The first company diagnosed a bad computer as well and gave an estimate. The brushes looked good as well until I pulled the leads to check that they were traveling freely in the holder. They were all very tight in the holders. Ordered new brushes (I think from Crown) and they were tight too. The holders looked good so I ended up filing down the new brushes until they slid freely. Dressed the commutator and the truck has been running fine for the last 8 years. I never did figure out how brushes that must have been free when the motor was built became so swelled as to be tight years later.
Good video.
I've seen that too but the brushes on the ones I've seen were arcing and the commutator was a little burnt. Installed new brushes, cleaned the commutator and it's good as new. This one threw me for a loop because the motor was running fine, until it wasn't.
This isn’t from the carbon brushes swelling. It’s from the metal parts of the brush holder warping from heat. Bad/weak batteries, over loading, bad cables, and lots of things can cause it. Not gonna say I never rubbed a little off the side of a brush so it slid better in a brush holder. Used to do it all the time on super high hour crown PC3000 pallet jacks
Interesting problem. thanks for sharing.
Thank you 🙏👍
Wow, I would've went down the same rabbit hole and put a module on it too! I'm curious, if the cables were removed the minute the motor shut off, would the resistance be at least a few ohms higher than normal? Finally, as usual, another awesome and informative video!
Maybe
Had that befor. Stuck brushes In motor.
How to remove 🔧 sign from crown fork lifter display.
Any function not working.
Hi,
We have a forklift Toyota
Model 8FGU25 serial 44826
Has no spark on distributor, sometimes idle pedal work sometimes not, before turn on key ear diagnose on trotlebody now don’t move and show me on dash E ad-1 code, somebody know what happened?
Please,
Was this a 36V RR?
I believe this was a 24v
Let me guess, crown was the previous company hahah
Intermittents are very difficult even with a scope
That pump needs to be changed too.
How to remove 🔧 sign from crown fork lifter display.
Any function not working.