Compelled to end testing of Poly Filter, find out why?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- Compelled to end testing of Poly Filter, find out why?
TheIchthyologyStore.comna01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fthe-ichthyology-store.creator-spring.com%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ce287955335d34ecfa23d08d91d3884d5%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637572950848241122%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=vzym4SGVXHNZlWJluvrt%2FzauFW9s9bp6LPyvQLEK8%2FM%3D&reserved=0to
to order t-shirts "Anoxic Filtration System"
just for clarification, since people are confusing filter floss (poly fiber used for pillow batting) with this product:
''The POLY-FILTER is for filtering and purifying both fresh and salt water aquariums. It is a formulation of a special patented material bonded to a synthetic matrix. By means of a unique proprietary process, the POLY-FILTER is made impervious to salt and is also organic loving to certain materials. It can absorb and adsorb contaminants and other toxic materials found in nature or added to fresh and salt water with or without fish and invertebrates. Medication added to fresh and salt water aquariums for treatment of diseased fish will automatically be removed by the POLY-FILTER after serving their intended purpose before the medication can produce a toxic effect on the fish.
The POLY-FILTER is non-toxic and harmless to biological filtration because it allows a sufficient amount of ammonia to reach the biological filter in order to sustain the bacteria culture. The POLY-FILTER provides a supplemental means for removal of ammonia when the biological filter is unable to break down the excess ammonia and its concentration increases rapidly. Then the POLY-FILTER adsorbs the excess ammonia while the biological filter readjusts to higher ammonia input levels. Changes color when exhausted. 12" x 12".
Poly-Filter
Operating Instructions
Freshwater Application:
Add Poly-Filter to any holder or apparatus at any time.
Establishing Marine/Reef system:
Add Poly-Filter so water can pass through it.
For Maximum Filtration: Eliminate all water bypass.
Poly-Filter in established marine & freshwater systems:
Conventional power filter: Place Poly-Filter on bottom plate. Cover with gravel or floss. Do not restrict flow.
Plastic undergravel filters: Place Poly-Filter on top of the undergravel plate. Cover filter and plate with gravel.
Canister-type power filters: Place Poly-Filter in the chemical filter compartment. Add floss according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Medication removal (parasite and antibiotic treatments):
Remove Poly-Filter from water before any type of medication is added. Follow medication instructions issued by the manufacturer. After treatment is complete, place Poly-Filter back in the water to remove traces of medication. Test water for safe levels. When safe, remove discolored Poly-Filter, dry and save for next medication. Place new Poly-Filter in the water for removal of conventional organics and water purification.
Adding vitamins and trace elements:
Remove Poly-Filter from water before adding vitamins or trace elements. After 12 hours place Poly-Filter back into water. Poly-Filter will not remove calcium, magnesium, strontium, barium or alkalinity supplements. Poly-Filter will not remove trace elements included in marine salt mixtures.
General maintenance comments:
Poly-Filter turns color when removing medications.
Aqua to Dark Blue: Copper or Copper salts.
Orange: Iron.
Bright Red: Aluminum.
Bright Yellow: Ammonia, Amines or Solvents.
Dyes: Color of the solution when added i.e. Methylene Blue: Pale Blue. Malachite Green: Light Green, Tannins/Humic acid: Dark Brown, Organic Wastes: Light Tan progressing to Dark Brown. Poly-Filter extends time between water changes. Add de-chlorinated water to make up for evaporation loss. If pH shifts below acceptable level change water and add a new Poly-Filter. Heavy slime producing water conditioners can surface coat Poly-Filter and interfere with absorption performance. In marine water, soak in 3% hydrogen peroxide then rinse (in freshwater) well. In freshwater soak in 10% marine salt water solution then rinse (in freshwater) well.
Manufacturer Info
Poly-Bio-Marine
In 1976, Poly-Bio-Marine, Inc. developed, patented and commercialized a truly unique product, the "Poly Filter". It was specifically designed for chemical filtration in the aquarium.''
Sounds like you had it in for poly filter from the beginning. What do you base their manufacturing cost of a dollar on for a 12" X 12" pad? Works great for me and numerous others.
I have been using PolyFilter pads for for many years and think that they are worth the money. I don't use them as part of my normal filtration but to boost the filter capacity when setting up a new tank and I use small pieces in the bags when transporting fish . As the pad you were using was turning dark brown it was certainly removing something ( ammonia ? fertiliser ? ) As others have mentioned I don't understand why you were using a TDS meter as a moniter. It will not tell you what the PolyFilter was removing. If the pad was becoming clogged with detritus then it needed more extensive prefiltering.
The yellow is the tannins from the driftwood which carbon is best at removing.
I love how your take from this is that it clogs too fast so the material must be bad, not the fact that "wow" look how much stuff it collected out of my water.
The carbon just removes color from the water, what this is actually telling you is how inefficient the carbon and the rest of your filter system is.
Clear water isn't always an indication of "clean" water.
It lasts until it becomes colored. Yours seem colored quickly meaning the media removed organics such as ammonia but for example if you had copper in your tank it has been removing it. To gave conclusion from your test we should know the composition of your water before and after polyfiltering tour tank. Alors you should tale into account that in 2 weeks you added water for evaporation. In addition of water composition knowledge, you should also do the same test without polyfilter to see what's the differences.
Looks to me like t did it's job!
The directions recommend replacing it when it turns brown.
Sure, yours turned brown very quickly, suggesting your tank was dirtier/ higher in toxins than you thought. I'm sure the longer you used it you'd find you need to replace it less and less regularly.
The reason your tank doesn't look crystal clear is because of the tannins in the water. Carbon does the best job on those, I gather.
I've used Poly Filter on troublesome tanks and it's been great. I had a tank housing hundreds of feedee fish and couldn't maintain healthy water without using Poly Filter.
Ideally you don’t want to use polyfilter this way.. you need normal mechanical filters then bio then Chemical then top off with the poly. This allows it to be last in line and soak up phosphates and organics that are missed by everything else which will help reduce phosphates and nitrates in a tank drastically.
Exactly, poly filter is to be used as a chemical filter, not as a mechanical filter.
Best filtration media available...great stuff
Well Kevin, interesting experiment I would suggest trying another experiment using a 4 stage pre filter. 2 course, 1 medium and a fine before the poly, which is essentially a polishing pad. If you have a high turnover rate with just one piece of polish the organics don't have a chance to break down like in course still allowing smaller particles to pass through putting less stress on the next stage, medium and so on. By the time it gets to the poly it will the organic particles will be the correct size for which it was designed for. I use this method after lots of trials and errors experimenting and now my poly gets replaces after 6 weeks. It never shows as much organic build up like this one, in fact the only thing I notice is a slight discoloration so essentially I probably remove it too early. My readings are well within the acceptable margins. Maintainace is course and medium pads are rinsed every month and fine and poly 6 to 8 weeks water changes on a planted discus tank once a month on a 75g with twice daily feeding routine and flow rate of 600gph pump (It's pretty old so probably about 500gph now). So my suggestion is to give it go. Success is failing with enthusiasm! All the best.
Correct.When used as last stage it'll perform as stated by manfactuer for a considerable time.So remember it's matrix/density weave and adjust accordingly..
turned black... looks like it did its job. maybe your tank was dirtier than you thought. change it more often till it lvls out
Turned black means heavy organics got removed.. makes a lot of sense in a planted tank....maybe you should add carbon to run aside that but that's not just dirt.. it changes colour to indicate what it's removed
I use it and love it.
I agree 💯percent with your findings kind sir I am so happy someone finally did a scientific test on this subject regardless on what type of prefilter you use with this stuff it is picking up the tiny particles and ditritus so it is going to get very dirty very fast now imagine putting this stuff in your fx6 filter and need to open it up every 2 weeks definitely not worth it trust me I have made this mistake I find the fluval blue filter floss with works great it will filter out ditritous and keep your tank looking polished I get about 3 months out of it and I’m running 3 fx6s on a 210 gallon tank with no carbon
Great to hear.
Not to rag on the Fella that made this video, but this test was far from scientific.
gday mate I use it all the time my tank is crystal clear
I don't use it in my filters, I use it free floating to absorb things like tannins. It clogs too easily, but it's great to absorbing things like tannins. Your TDS started to rise once it started to get clogged because it reduced the efficiency of your filter. I personally don't like using carbon as it always raises by TDS and hardness.
you are supposed to put it after prefilter media. it says on the pack to put it in the chemical compartment of a canister filter.
This product has been around for over 50 years it does not work. I will stick to my guns on that unless you have any scientific proof and white paper on how it does work then I’d like to see it. I’ve done the same test several times at least more than a dozen and the results always came out the same.
@@anoxicfiltrationplenums the king of diy uses polyfilters so it must work
You didn't use it correctly. The aquarist should use a good 2+ inches of polyester fiber ahead of Polyfilter in the filter chain. Just like activated carbon, Polyfilter should be set to work on dissolved elements so as to prevent clogging. You should know better. I've used Polyfilter for 2+ months at a time, still working properly. But part of it is their own fault. They advertise it as a combination mechanical and chemical filter, probably so people use them faster and buy more of them. However you should know better. You worked yourself into such a snit over the $10 price that you never gave it a chance. I find that they work quickly and totally when configured as I describe above.
Polyfilter’s are a placebo for the ignorant people who will buy it. I stand by my test results because this is not the first time I have done such test.
Why is the Pad at the bottom and you mentioned Prefilters at the top ? Ehiems flow bottom up ! The polyfilter pad should have been the last thing put it before the water exits.
Does anyone even watch the videos? He is using a SUMP, the eheim is just a cannister he is using within the SUMP as the prefilter.
So ALL that debris got past his sump prefilters in 15 days....???
Yeah that's "working great"..... Or the Polly IS working great...!
Have you contacted the manufacturer to find out why it did not work the way you expected it to? Perhaps do that, then let us know what they said.
I use polyfil from Wal-Mart. It's 3 dollars for a bag the size of a pillow. I fill the compartment before my biological media in a canister filter and it lasts about a month and its usually pretty close to being saturated with waste at that point, but it does manage to keep my aquarium very clear. I also occasionally use carbon in my filter after the polyfil. I like both for media and notice that the tank is slightly clearer with both.
polyfil= filter floss filter floss traps everything organic/ waste.
yeah polyfil and polyfilter were both different
Thanks for the info Doc , I do use Poly Filter but with carbon at the same time it’s works for me. Poly Filter is expensive only Doctor Foster & Smith has some what of a deal like buying 6 pad for $30 plus the 20% off (it sucks waiting for the sale date too get 20% off) in any case I do wait for the sale , that only time I’ll buy. Love your videos , I’m too working on a BCB will post video when done.
Eugenio Vazquez now I’ve use poly filters with carbon, just like you said you do but which one is really doing the most work the poly filter or the carbon?
I will have to check that out.
Interesting upload as always! I just went and got the carbon that came with my filter and I remembered why I've not been using it. There's a precaution "only use for max 14 days and only when first starting up and after water chemical treatment. Carbon pad can only be used once!". Do you have any idea what that means?
Sparks iOS Music : as carbon fills at the microscopic level it ceases to remove filtrate... 2 weeks is a random figure , opinion based on grade of carbon, there are to many variables in the chemistry of a closed system for blanket statements to be accurate... it is even hard to generalize the results of randomized controled studies let alone so called “expert opinion” which we have plenty of from non scientists in this hobby unfortunately... pads are simply poly coated with carbon powder... most of the capacity gets destroyed in the application process thus short life and zero ability to clean out at micro level. Not much different from polyfilters except that ion exchangd resins are used instead of carbon...not rocket science as some seem to think....don’t get me wrong , al these medias have their specialties, just not blanket cure-alls....i like them all and stock them all... i know you wanted Dr Novak, but figured he’s busy, ...; (yes i am a scientist)
We need more tests on our filter media.
There are many variables to consider.
Was this test done in the light of other media in the Canister? I appreciate your tests, but what other considerations are there? Tannins from driftwood, and other items can affect your tests. Were there other media like sponges, bio home, lava rocks, and or carbon in your test? I enjoyed watching. Thank you for sharing this test on the poly pads. I used carbon, but not every time. I also use lava rocks. I use different kinds of sponges stacked up. When I medicate the tank, I’ll use carbon to pick to the meds. I use poly pads to polish my water. My sponges to pick up dirt, and food. I also use a sponge filter at the intake inside the tank. Most junk is caught there.
you can use Walmart generic poly, as long as it's 100% poly & not mold/mildew resistant- VERY cheap.
Also, poly filter isn't a replacement for carbon, they work in conjunction w/ each other.
I didn't realize you were experimenting with the poly as a substitute for the charcoal. I assumed from your last prefilter video, you were using it in conjunction with the carbon? Am constructing a layered, drilled cannister similar to yours and was going to use the poly batting as the first layer, over a 1 lb carbon pellet bag - am I needing to reconfigure this?
Salty Sphynx At the price $$$ poly filters are they should work without using carbon as a back up. Now since I put the carbon back in and did away with the poly filter my tank looks cleaner and clearer and some of the Algae that was starting to grow is disappearing, so apparently the poly filter was not doing as much as ordinary activated carbon can do.
I purchased 5 yards of the poly batting for $20 and was going to cut it into pieces to fit my DIY canister; it will be the first layer over a 1 lb bag of carbon in the prefilter chamber of my sump. The BCB & pump chambers will house 12 4x4 baskets. The plumbing for this is my current achilles heel.
100 micron polishing filter the best
An interesting test of poly filter is to add a set amount of ammonia to uncycled tank. Does the poly filter absorb ammonia more than a control without the poly filter?
Curtis Ramsey I think basically poly filters are for ammonia if you have a problem with that and to help phosphates keep them down.
Kevin Novak the use case is for shipping fish. Does poly filter help with water chemistry in the bag while shipping fish. The belief is it makes a large difference but a test would show how effective it is.
... why would you remove the carbon.... instead of one of the sponge filters?
The sponge filters can be cleaned over and over again the carbon becomes exhausting and must be replaced.
@@anoxicfiltrationplenums But your missing the entire point of the carbon's job and the poly filters job by doing that than ragging on the poly filter for not doing its job?
Jord Jong poly filters have been around for over 50 years but yet there’s no scientific proof that they work just anecdotal accounts. I’ve tested poly filters three times already and they failed every time. I put them to lab test or even a hobbyist test and they fail. They are an overprice filter media that’s been in the hobby way too long for what they do.
@@anoxicfiltrationplenums Your test was flawed and your blaming the filter....
Jord Jong prove it? In other words put your money where your mouth is, show me the scientific proof that these filters really work? How long do they last before they become exhausted? Remember, these are only a chemically impregnated filter pad and as everybody knows chemicals eventually break down in water and will not last forever. They are just overly expensive snake-oil for the Hobbiest. The only reason these filter pads have lasted so long is because nobody has ever sat down and done any real research on Poly Filters to prove them worthless.
The tds meter will tell you how many total dissolved solids are in your water
yes it will.
a pre filter in the intake tube will keep poly filter clean and last longer/ you need anaerobic bacteria to get rid of nitrate.
what about just filling it full of poly stuffing like pillow filler?
How about doing the same testing for chemipure elite
quick question Mr. Novak! How your fertilizer dozing works in combination with the carbon you use in your filter?
An alternative test would be to run the poly filter for a month then run a protein skimmer to see what the skimmer pulled out. If the poly filter pulls out organically then the skimmer would have nothing to pull out.
I did such experiment a long time ago. And the skimmer was not affected by the poly filter in any way, shape, size or form.
@@anoxicfiltrationplenums Video?
@@eyewitnessmediaderby1805 no, back then no TH-cam.
I get amazing results from Polyfilter, I think it is well worth the money. Why are you using TSD as your measure? They do tell you how long it lasts because it will turn black.
Majestic AquariumsTV yes I would ask the same thing. You mentioned in another video that TDS is a secondary measure and not important overall.
Turned dark in a week in a planted tank... hardly cost effective....he said that. Since we all know who you are, and that you sell polyfilters, and have a gazillion videos on TH-cam about them, you also know when the turn brown it’s from organic matter especially in planted tank...when your media exhausts in a week you have to change it! so.... in this application, regardless of TDS, if is not cost effective , it’s like a Dr ordering super expensive antibiotics when cheap penicillin will do ! (aka. carbon-still not buying your arguement that carbon is phosphate based, do you realize how many kinds of carbon there are? ). Dr Novak is using carbon with virtually zero phosphates! So am I. I do like the polys but for specific purposes short term.
I've bought poly filter. That stuff does nothing for nitrates.. I'm trying to figure out how to test for other compounds so I can put up results on the you tube. I'm not sure if it does anything
@ Robert Dillon Yes he sells it and he also uses A LOT of it in his shop and his home. He also uses it in the hundreds of aquariums and ponds owned by his customers and clients that he serves every day and that trust him. Do you think he'd use it as extensively as he does if he didn't think it was any good?
Xstrada Well yes I do because he has a clear self interest in promoting Polyfilter ... I make no claims about Polyfilter per se .. all it is ...a pad impregnated with polymer exchange resins. Not a particularly mysterious or miraculous process really. But it technically should work far better then this video shows.
First of all why would you ever rinset polyfilter in tap water? That in itself totally ruined the polyfilter and your experiment!
It does say how long it will last every tank has different water qualities, extreme, throw it away when it's turn black, i'd throw it away mid to dark brown.
People are using poly fill from Walmart.... for making pillows in the sewing section. Idk about safety just saw some vids on it. Thought I’d share. But I think you could get about 100 Little Circle filters out of the amount you would get for about five bucks or something like that. I have a bad feeling about it but it’s just an idea to toss around and I know you would probably do lots of testing before you risk your fishes lives and if you discover it’s bad you probably put it out there for other fishy people✌🏻🤓
I get my poly from Joann's fabric and then cut to size like I show in my TH-cam videos. If it is safe for a baby and humans then it will be safe for your fish too.
Why in the world do you use carbon in a planted tank. I assume u dont dose fertilizer for them because they look unhealthy. If you do dose fertilizer it's all going to waste because of the carbon. Carbon has no place in planted tanks unless you are trying to remove medications or tanning ex. And then get the carbon out
Instead of spending all the money you did, get some cheap fiberfilter material - I used to cheap pillows, total $4 at Walmart, put in the filter, and leave an old carbon filter in there, fiber behind. The only thing is I have to get carbon to add to the filter to really make a difference.
Carbon? Ok for small tanks..not large. Better to make a larger bio filter..water changes,etc.
Why aren't you using rodi water to begin with
Don't need to: what would be the purpose of it?
Pad replacement is important. You need other perfilters first for debris.
When he says "readox", is he talking about oxygen reduction potential?
valid statement in how long does it work . I use this it works short term in combo with carbon
Carbon is exhausted after 3 days.
Did you prewash the material you put in before you added it?
That's good work Novak ThankYou
Good morning Mr. Novak
Question, being into Chemistry, is there something to adhere to glass that will not allow algae or green spot algae to grow upon the surface?
I know about light duration, using a plenum, less feeding & not to overcrowd etc.
Just curious if there is a manmade material that algae can't grow on that you're aware of.
A) one that doesn't need to be clear or see through.
B) one material or type of subatance that might be clear when applied.
Could be something to create for the many aquarium fanatics.
Enjoy your Superbowl Weekend!
Michael Piccirillo The problem with glass is it silica base which actually makes a good growing media for algae. For some algae’s silica is a good food source and at present there is nothing to stop algae from growing on the glass except...H2O2. There was a time in the hobby where manufactures made a membrane that would release small amounts of hydrogen peroxide into the tank and that in turn stop algae from growing all over everything including the glass. But because of the cost of the 6% hydrogen peroxide being used it then went out of favor. manufactures tried this little injection of H2O2 twice now in the hobby and both times it failed.
Kevin Novak maybe it's time to build the Worlds first "Biocenocious Clarification" algae Perfectly clear Glass Aquariums? Lol
This is a new take on glass building, melding two known proven substances into "BCG" Glass
Great test always suspected that poly filter was a scam.
good review I think it was a fair test and I think I will stick to carbon thanks
if carbon works for you don't change nothing.
Your mistaken! Take my word for it, I've kept aquariums, both fresh and saltwater for over 60 years and I've never found a better product than the Incomparable Poly Filter.
@@acanskywalker5631 it's a great product do you remember angels hair.
@@bxkid7 LOL sure do, actually it's still out there, I use it occasionally, not always easy to find, try Joann Fabrics!
It's all marketing and ripping off the hobbyist. Now we have "new and improved" before we had "old and lousy". We have been conditioned to believe marketing.
I’ll be honest with you, I’ve use this product several times and not once can I say it worked as advertised. Only the fact that it does filter out particular matter. But in that case you can buy cheap filter material at any Walmart and it will do the same.
dumb, check flow direction, fine media should be third in filter order, course, medium THEN finefine will always gunk up when used alone???
Has anyone ever told you you sound like Ben ochart? That’s a compliment btw.
I just started using it . So far not impressed . Not worth the money
If thats ur first use then that makes semse. But after prolonged use i should expect crystal clear water
Maybe it's time for you to retire , it seem long overdue .
Twisted logic and misinformation don't help make an informative video .
Then prove me wrong .
Then if you’re so right prove me wrong. Actually go through the research and prove me wrong and do a video about it.
LOL... right. He used it as a pre filter and thinks he disproved it....
LMAO....! You're ridiculous...! Use some common sense and use it as intended, Yes it will work as a "mechanical" filter but that's not what it's intended to do... And you KNOW this..!
So what you're telling me if people use a screwdriver to pry something like a paint can lid off their miss using the product and they should buy the correct product to do the job. If life was only that simple. And yes, you're right it's ridiculous to use a screwdriver when you can buy a special tool to do the same job. But then it's ridiculous if you don't use it because it's a versatile tool. And you know that!
@@anoxicfiltrationplenums Nice try....
But opening a paint can doesn't RUIN the screwdriver, now does it....
You're using the screwdriver to chisel concrete, then complaining that it's not a good screwdriver.
agree you! they are wayy tooo expensive, more sounds like a rubbing lol