Love the videos -- especially thanks for this one. I'm glad there's now a video so people can see this - I've tried to explain it with words a bunch of times but nobody ever seems to understand it. This type of locking mechanism is used a lot, and it's actually very effective - but that's only true if the clutches are sized appropriately and whatever is providing the clamping force has enough strength and range of motion to do what it's supposed to do. Tons of vehicles like the Toyota Land Cruiser, basically every Land Rover, some Jeeps, blah blah blah use this concept in both their "center diff" in the transfer case and in their front and/or rear diffs. It works great to go anywhere from unlocked to completely locked at will. But again, that only works if the clutches are strong enough. Think about practically every motorcycle ever made - they use a similar clutch pack and spring(s) to put clamping force on it. That allows them to go from completely disengaged to completely engaged every time they start off. We don't consider those "not truly locked" as long as the clutches aren't worn out and they're big/strong/grippy enough to hold the power and weight of the bike. The same would be true with this diff - if those clutches were big and strong enough, and the actuator could put enough squeeze on them to hold, it would indeed be fully locked just like when you let the clutch pedal out on your car. Unfortunately it seems like this clutch pack is way too small and flimsy for what we expect it to do. Land Cruisers can run this arrangement for hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. Those plates in your diff are already smooth in practically no time. That sucks. This is a tried and true idea in the automotive industry for variably locking two shafts together. Can-Am just screwed up a fully functional (and actually awesome) system with under-engineered clutches. Shocking, Can-Am ruined a great idea with crappy details. If someone could make a better quality clutch pack that might be the best solution for most owners. Most people don't need the big expensive option we have now -- you do, but most people probably don't. They just want the Smart Lok to work like it's supposed to and not wear out in practically no time at all. There's a company in South Alabama ( www.altousa.com/ ) that stepped up and made clutch plates for Victory owners when they had no good options. I have no idea how, but it would be cool if we could get someone like that the specs of the stock clutch pack and see if they could make something that would actually last more than a few hundred miles. I love the functionality of the Smart Lok, but nobody wants one that only works for a short time after every $300 clutch pack replacement.
When in 4wd non diff lock the ecm and front diff module monitor multiple parameters such as wheel speeds, rpm, throttle input. Normal 4wd non locked acts like the older visko lok and based on what it sees, it uses the stepper motor on the actuator and ball ramp to actively modulate pressure on the clutch pack several times a second. The trail active modulates more aggressively than trail and moves priorities of sensors around accordingly. Mud mode allows more wheel spin differentiation Rock is even more aggressive in modulation than trail active. Then when diff lok is activated it applies full pressure to the clutch pack and locks both sides true 1:1. Clutch packs are a wear item and if beating on the unit hill climbing and rock bouncing they will wear faster than desert, sand or trail usage. If performance is starting to diminish within the 4wd system, clutch pack likely requires servicing. Portal boxes and larger 40+ inch tires can also increase the wear on the clutch pack. Source: am CanAm tech
Yes, thx Austin. Gotta a 2021 X3 RC RR on order and not liking what I’m hearing. But then again I probably won’t be as hard on mine. How many miles did your diff have on it before it went bye bye?
@@starRayxx sorry for such a lengthy delay. YT doesn't like to inform you every time you get a reply. I don't own one but I've worked on all of BRP's product lines exclusively for almost 6 years now. For the most part the front differentials on these are impressively robust considering what folks put them through. The last few years of CanAm Off-road product success in KOH, Dakar, BitD I think have solidified that. Did you get your RC and if so how are you liking it so far?
I did the same upgrade on my 17 rs with 2 trips to windrock and its finally nice to stop worrying about that weak link when you rock crawl. Keep on rockin guys
I had my clutch pack crack as well around 1800 miles. I'm running a 20 xrc rr car with 32`S. It worked great at first but noticed the last few 100 miles ( before the loud bang ) that it was acting up. From what I noticed ( when I tore it down ) the clutches are always spinning whether it is locked or not and the actuator applies pressure to the clutch pack depending on which mode you are in. So the clutch pack is a wear item that needs to be replaced. I always tend to run 4wd to keep the rear wheels from spinning but since the rebuild ( now knowing how it works ) i only run 4wd when it is needed hoping to keep the wear to a minimum. I like the way the smart-loc performs so fingers crossed that I get way more miles on this clutch pack. It works like it should again.
My clutch pack went out on mine at about 500 HARD miles, when I say it went out acourse both tires wasn’t pulling good. Put another clutch pack in worked like new again.
2021 rs turbo rr halo diff and rcv expensive but works great. live in east tenn. rock climb but everything will break. had it for awhile still goes good but drive shaft had to have help.
I've got a 2019 xrc turbo r, riding in a similar way as you. I haven't had any real slipping of the locker, and I run 35's. Watching all your videos, I get the feeling the crack occurred prior and is what created the failure.
Have the Visco HALO , if there is anything I can check for you if you are curious. I think the wiring and actuator are the same. Thank you for doing such a great job pulling the smart lock apart and explaining what the hell is going on in there! I know its a PIA to film mid job particularly with oil and grease on everything, so thank you for being so detailed about it. I think the difference between the smart lock modes is the "Inputs" it uses to decide when and how much lock to employ. Mechanically they are identical but the parameters when it wants to lock are different, like how quickly it will actuate, how many rotations before it gets aggressive. Its nice to see the inside of one, where and how they fail!
@@BlownBudgetOffroad Nailing it for me, getting a lot of Real relevant content here. Things I am not seeing many other places, keep doing what you are doing.
@@tcnpsu1 Run the stock axles as I have read they are the “best” solution overall. If you are aggressive or don’t have a soft touch, HALO30 is likely the way to go. Another channel was able to swap the HALO30 parts into the visco case. If I have trouble, might go that way, but don’t anticipate it will be a problem.
Nice setup, can't remember if you have already upgraded your driveshaft. If not, keep a spare. Rode with a guy that went to that front set up because of the same problems you were having and now the problem has moved to breaking driveshafts.
The "got em" clip was a nice little touch laughing at your own pain, knowing that you blew an RCV on the first ride! Looking forward to the Alabama videos!
The service manual explain in detail how it works,it have a actuator,a locking solenoid and wet clutch pack .the actuator fully pulls what they call the"ball ramp" toothed pawl,then the solenoid lock the small gears inside the actuator assembly and shutdown the actuator to rest position .yes ,the clutch pack have to hold the right side spider gear hub locked in place, so if clutch pack spins probably your clutch are worn out or oil is degraded.thats why so important to replace often the diff oil.
Good explanation! I have had some what I thought was mishaps with locking front diff and it turns out it's probably just wore out! Yall got a sub from me down here in North FL. We ride deep mud and water/clay etc. Keep on keeping on!
Save that factory ring & pinion gear if its not damaged. Thats usually the part that will break in a halo diff. Also read at some point on the smart-lok....it disengages the "lock" above a certain speed and also passed a certain steering angle that its suppose to unlock
Damn that locker is a POS ! AS much as a pain in the ass it is to lock my diff in and out on my Yamaha Wolverine x2 it sure beats that sloppy slip diff on that Canned Ham. All the $$$ we she'll out on these rigs and they make crap like that. So glad your putting a awesome diff in it. Cant wait to see you back in action
Interesting about the smartlok. Now im wondering if you could throw some friction modifer in the diff like you can limited slip car diff to get it to grip better.
The locker reminds me more of a "limited slip" differential. Just that with it locked, there is supposedly enough force against the plates, that it does not slip at all... like you said. Not a true "locking differential". It really reminds me of the electric locker i used to have in my Tj wrangler. It was a limited slip until i activated a button that magnetically pressed enough pressure on the plates inside the diff, to make it so called lock. I forget what it was called now, but i think it was made by Eaton.
And yes. The one i had in my jeep, locked up great for a year or so. After a few years it got to the point where even when i flipped the switch, only one tire would have torque to it. I do believe over time i completely burned up the clutches inside to the point they would not catch at all
I don't know if they even still make it. In my case, in my TJ, it only lasted about a year and a half. I barely ever actually "locked" it, but the clutches seemed to wear out in a short time. I had to add a limited slip, friction fluid when doing the diff fluid changes. Maybe i didn't have the mix ratio correct. The ECTED worked great as a limited slip, while the clutches were good. :)
I think the slip in the front diff keeps the drive train from destroying itself. These SxS's, all of them, aren't bombproof to begin with so I can't help but think the clutches probably extend the reliability for most users. I think now that you have a halo and RCV's it won't be long before you break the drive shaft.
I’m not positive but I’m guessing there is a computer that is watching the difference between the 2 wheel speed sensors and as it senses more difference it turns that gear engagement plate more to lock the diff.
So basically this is a electronically activated positrack, or limited slip differential, which worked fairly well if maintained. And it is why I have read some are changing the oil often, like every engine oil change.
I've been waiting for this vid!! Well worth the wait! So far my '19 XMR, 1k miles, diff. works fine. Been seeing a lot of X3's having front diff problems. Seems like it happens when there is a lot of side pressure on one wheel. Maybe relieves pressure on clutch pack? Idk. Anyway, keep the vids coming!
Do you guys have a way I could send you some pictures of my I actually broke the whole bottle case and I’m definitely wanting to go with something stronger let me know
Have a 2021 with same exact problem just stripped the gear, thought about welding it to not spend 1400 bucks on it...... when you welded it how was the drivability? And how long did it last?
Ok so the Halo diff works basically like my old 06 Rhino front diff it runs in 2wd it the switch and it goes into an open diff allowing the easiest tire to spin, then hit the switch again and it goes into a full locked diff making both front tires to spin. Seems like they would’ve done that to begin with at the factory. Which makes me think of putting a CanAm Commander motor into my Rhino. By the way how is Aleah doing with the pregnancy good luck to y’all
Where you guys from ? I know in lot of your video you go to the cliffs and the badlands? I’m from by Rockford IL. Always looking for guys to wheel with. I got a 2020 xds RR . Pretty built up. Next month I’ll be going down to the badlands.
We are in Wisconsin. Usually those ride days are spur of the moment. Keep up with social media and our fb group to see when we have a badlands ride again
@@BlownBudgetOffroad awesome! I’m always in Kenosha Wi that’s where I’m from. I got a big group going to Windrock in May. And going to Moab. In September and October
Really love the video! Traitor is a beast and i love the build and trying to follow the same setup as my bank account lets me :P. What cage are you running in Traitor?
Yeah there’s been a little bit a debate between a buddy of mine and myself. I know on the visco lok diffs there are two different length axles but my buddy is saying that the halo 30 upgrade on the smart lok versions have interchangeable axles like the stock SL. I know RCV and Turner axles are tough but a spare is always good and it’s would be nice to only have to have one spare from axles to cover breakage on either side
If you look at the thumbnail on the picture you can clearly see that one of the inside cups has a longer shaft. At least I can from the link on Facebook lol -Josh
Do you have any documentation, or trusted source, that says the lock allows partial engagement. Usually, if not always, diffs are fully locked or fully unlocked. The clutch disks are to allow a smooth cushioned engagement. The rack and pinion style engagement is probably there for a better positive engagement/disengagement and reliability (reduced clutch wear), the design is a whole lot better than a solenoid style engagement mechanism. Having a partial engagement is asking for the clutch disks to burn up, not good, not a good idea at all. I had thought/think the "smart" part is WHEN it engages automatically, not how much to torque to apply to the 'other' wheel. Also, that the computer is looking at spin difference between the front/rear, not side to side on the front.
Not really sure how to further explain. In theory doesn’t always translate to real world applications. We have lots of “field testing” that shows the diff isn’t always locked. On video. Not sure what else is needed to explain, there is a clutch pack that helps it slip therefore it’s not a true locked diff. -Josh
@@BlownBudgetOffroad of course the diff is not always locked. Are you confusing 4x4 for a locked front diff? In 2x4 the front drive shaft is not under power. In 4x4 the front drive line is under power. The smart lock is only referring to the front diff being "locked" or the clutch pack being engaged, so the difference of 3 or 4 wheels being under power. 2 or "4" is determined in the transmission, where 3 or 4 is determined in the front diff. I'm just questioning if the front diff clutch pack is ever partially engaged; if so, it seems like extreme wear would happen shortly. Since the smart lock engages on the fly, under power, then you need a way to softly engage, hence the need for a clutch pack.
Not questioning any of if it’s in 2 or 4 lol There is a clutch pack and the computer decides how to apply pressure to that clutch pack. So yes it’s always partially engaged. Trail mode, mud, rock, and trail active one can only assume each have a different style of pressure applied do given information from the sensors. The held down button for “diff lock” isn’t true because if it’s locked it should just let one tire spin lol. Hope this video help all of us understand the diff more -Josh
@@BlownBudgetOffroad The "assuming" part is what I am questioning. Where do you get the pressure on the clutch pack is variable. Documentation? source?
Nice Justin!!!! Im syked for you brutha... that Halo look beautiful in there....its what "traitor" and you needed my man, Cant wait to see the shit you conquer now LOL!🤘🤙
@@BlownBudgetOffroad YOU ALL DO!!! LOL!! I've seen the clips for the new stuff, like i said the day i seen em, you guys were out for "blood" and going more hardcore then I've EVER seen you guys go...absolutely bad ass !! Cant wait Josh, im syked!!!! Catch you then!🤙🤘
Im STILL scratching my head as to why you guys are lacking in the followers/subscribers department ?!?!?!🤔 The awesome, bad ass content is there and the editing is truly very good too, so i been baffled myself my brother (smh) but i know one thing is for an absolute fact...KEEP grinding these vids out and continue doing what you guys do best (that is SENDING IT🙃) and it will ALL pay off BIG TIME!!! Ty my brutha!! Keep your heads up and all four tire skins DOWN!!!!🤘🤙 😜🎥📽💽💵
We’re all in the trades. Never take our vehicles in for work, don’t hire people for much (if anything) basically do everything our selves and that all adds up.
It’s to bad these engineers think there doing great things with all this new smart shit. Good old 4x4 then physical locker the operator can control is the best bet. This is why I went with Kawasaki teryx and will go with a krx next.
Love the videos -- especially thanks for this one.
I'm glad there's now a video so people can see this - I've tried to explain it with words a bunch of times but nobody ever seems to understand it. This type of locking mechanism is used a lot, and it's actually very effective - but that's only true if the clutches are sized appropriately and whatever is providing the clamping force has enough strength and range of motion to do what it's supposed to do. Tons of vehicles like the Toyota Land Cruiser, basically every Land Rover, some Jeeps, blah blah blah use this concept in both their "center diff" in the transfer case and in their front and/or rear diffs. It works great to go anywhere from unlocked to completely locked at will. But again, that only works if the clutches are strong enough.
Think about practically every motorcycle ever made - they use a similar clutch pack and spring(s) to put clamping force on it. That allows them to go from completely disengaged to completely engaged every time they start off. We don't consider those "not truly locked" as long as the clutches aren't worn out and they're big/strong/grippy enough to hold the power and weight of the bike. The same would be true with this diff - if those clutches were big and strong enough, and the actuator could put enough squeeze on them to hold, it would indeed be fully locked just like when you let the clutch pedal out on your car. Unfortunately it seems like this clutch pack is way too small and flimsy for what we expect it to do. Land Cruisers can run this arrangement for hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. Those plates in your diff are already smooth in practically no time. That sucks. This is a tried and true idea in the automotive industry for variably locking two shafts together. Can-Am just screwed up a fully functional (and actually awesome) system with under-engineered clutches. Shocking, Can-Am ruined a great idea with crappy details.
If someone could make a better quality clutch pack that might be the best solution for most owners. Most people don't need the big expensive option we have now -- you do, but most people probably don't. They just want the Smart Lok to work like it's supposed to and not wear out in practically no time at all. There's a company in South Alabama ( www.altousa.com/ ) that stepped up and made clutch plates for Victory owners when they had no good options. I have no idea how, but it would be cool if we could get someone like that the specs of the stock clutch pack and see if they could make something that would actually last more than a few hundred miles. I love the functionality of the Smart Lok, but nobody wants one that only works for a short time after every $300 clutch pack replacement.
When in 4wd non diff lock the ecm and front diff module monitor multiple parameters such as wheel speeds, rpm, throttle input.
Normal 4wd non locked acts like the older visko lok and based on what it sees, it uses the stepper motor on the actuator and ball ramp to actively modulate pressure on the clutch pack several times a second.
The trail active modulates more aggressively than trail and moves priorities of sensors around accordingly.
Mud mode allows more wheel spin differentiation
Rock is even more aggressive in modulation than trail active.
Then when diff lok is activated it applies full pressure to the clutch pack and locks both sides true 1:1.
Clutch packs are a wear item and if beating on the unit hill climbing and rock bouncing they will wear faster than desert, sand or trail usage. If performance is starting to diminish within the 4wd system, clutch pack likely requires servicing. Portal boxes and larger 40+ inch tires can also increase the wear on the clutch pack.
Source: am CanAm tech
Thanks!
Yes, thx Austin. Gotta a 2021 X3 RC RR on order and not liking what I’m hearing. But then again I probably won’t be as hard on mine. How many miles did your diff have on it before it went bye bye?
Thank you for this excellent explanation!
@@starRayxx sorry for such a lengthy delay. YT doesn't like to inform you every time you get a reply. I don't own one but I've worked on all of BRP's product lines exclusively for almost 6 years now.
For the most part the front differentials on these are impressively robust considering what folks put them through. The last few years of CanAm Off-road product success in KOH, Dakar, BitD I think have solidified that.
Did you get your RC and if so how are you liking it so far?
I did the same upgrade on my 17 rs with 2 trips to windrock and its finally nice to stop worrying about that weak link when you rock crawl. Keep on rockin guys
Just find the next weak link now 🤣
I had my clutch pack crack as well around 1800 miles. I'm running a 20 xrc rr car with 32`S. It worked great at first but noticed the last few 100 miles ( before the loud bang ) that it was acting up. From what I noticed ( when I tore it down ) the clutches are always spinning whether it is locked or not and the actuator applies pressure to the clutch pack depending on which mode you are in. So the clutch pack is a wear item that needs to be replaced. I always tend to run 4wd to keep the rear wheels from spinning but since the rebuild ( now knowing how it works ) i only run 4wd when it is needed hoping to keep the wear to a minimum. I like the way the smart-loc performs so fingers crossed that I get way more miles on this clutch pack. It works like it should again.
If only people shared more information so we could understand it sooner lol
So jelly of the lift man... life goal for me.
Thanks! Been a dream for us also!
My clutch pack went out on mine at about 500 HARD miles, when I say it went out acourse both tires wasn’t pulling good. Put another clutch pack in worked like new again.
Ahhh the classic intro. Here we gooooo!
Gotta get justin to update it a little lol. Rigs have changed massively
-Josh
2021 rs turbo rr halo diff and rcv expensive but works great. live in east tenn. rock climb but everything will break. had it for awhile still goes good but drive shaft had to have help.
I've got a 2019 xrc turbo r, riding in a similar way as you. I haven't had any real slipping of the locker, and I run 35's. Watching all your videos, I get the feeling the crack occurred prior and is what created the failure.
Send it harder it will slip eventually lol
That diff is a thing of beauty. To bad it’s in a spot where it will rarely be seen.
Have the Visco HALO , if there is anything I can check for you if you are curious. I think the wiring and actuator are the same.
Thank you for doing such a great job pulling the smart lock apart and explaining what the hell is going on in there! I know its a PIA to film mid job particularly with oil and grease on everything, so thank you for being so detailed about it.
I think the difference between the smart lock modes is the "Inputs" it uses to decide when and how much lock to employ. Mechanically they are identical but the parameters when it wants to lock are different, like how quickly it will actuate, how many rotations before it gets aggressive.
Its nice to see the inside of one, where and how they fail!
Thanks man! Just trying to bring quality sxs content
@@BlownBudgetOffroad Nailing it for me, getting a lot of Real relevant content here. Things I am not seeing many other places, keep doing what you are doing.
Hi! How do you like the Halo Visco upgrade? What axles do you run? So torn about what direction to go.
@@tcnpsu1 Run the stock axles as I have read they are the “best” solution overall.
If you are aggressive or don’t have a soft touch, HALO30 is likely the way to go.
Another channel was able to swap the HALO30 parts into the visco case. If I have trouble, might go that way, but don’t anticipate it will be a problem.
Nice setup, can't remember if you have already upgraded your driveshaft. If not, keep a spare. Rode with a guy that went to that front set up because of the same problems you were having and now the problem has moved to breaking driveshafts.
It’s upgraded, I believe it should be mentioned in the next video
@@BlownBudgetOffroad what oil to put in halo 30 have one coming in a couple weeks
The "got em" clip was a nice little touch laughing at your own pain, knowing that you blew an RCV on the first ride! Looking forward to the Alabama videos!
If you only knew the struggles to come lol
@@BlownBudgetOffroad #blowndiffoffroad
Oh man...
Traitor is gonna be a tank with that new diff
That’s the plan anyway
Great exploded view discussion on the diff. Thanks for tearing it down and sharing the information. Hope the new diff works well for you
Thanks!
Blew a halo diff on windrock trail 44 this weekend!
Sick. Hope it gets all fixed up for ya
Which halo did you have?
The service manual explain in detail how it works,it have a actuator,a locking solenoid and wet clutch pack .the actuator fully pulls what they call the"ball ramp" toothed pawl,then the solenoid lock the small gears inside the actuator assembly and shutdown the actuator to rest position .yes ,the clutch pack have to hold the right side spider gear hub locked in place, so if clutch pack spins probably your clutch are worn out or oil is degraded.thats why so important to replace often the diff oil.
Yup. It showed signs of slipping very early in life though
Good explanation! I have had some what I thought was mishaps with locking front diff and it turns out it's probably just wore out! Yall got a sub from me down here in North FL. We ride deep mud and water/clay etc. Keep on keeping on!
Save that factory ring & pinion gear if its not damaged. Thats usually the part that will break in a halo diff. Also read at some point on the smart-lok....it disengages the "lock" above a certain speed and also passed a certain steering angle that its suppose to unlock
Interesting
Killed mine this weekend. Worked great pro rock racing. First trail ride on 35 Zillas and it broke.
Halo or smart lok?
oh yeah they work with s3 gusset kits too
I am so anxious to see how this works out as this is the Avenue I plan to take. Now get to riding lol.
Oh we beat the rigs down! Lol videos are being edited and uploaded as we speak
You’ve been riding with the new halo 30 and have videos being uploaded? I hope so
Damn that locker is a POS ! AS much as a pain in the ass it is to lock my diff in and out on my Yamaha Wolverine x2 it sure beats that sloppy slip diff on that Canned Ham. All the $$$ we she'll out on these rigs and they make crap like that. So glad your putting a awesome diff in it. Cant wait to see you back in action
Add another 100hp, 32s, and 500lbs to that thing and lemme know how glad you are with that diff
Yeah the Yamaha has a good design, it could be stronger too for our style of riding lol
Interesting about the smartlok. Now im wondering if you could throw some friction modifer in the diff like you can limited slip car diff to get it to grip better.
Probably could but you’d be changing a sensor once every time you ride it
Who knows.
Sweet. The toys are back in town. 😛✌👍
🤘🏻
The locker reminds me more of a "limited slip" differential. Just that with it locked, there is supposedly enough force against the plates, that it does not slip at all... like you said. Not a true "locking differential". It really reminds me of the electric locker i used to have in my Tj wrangler. It was a limited slip until i activated a button that magnetically pressed enough pressure on the plates inside the diff, to make it so called lock. I forget what it was called now, but i think it was made by Eaton.
Seems that’s what they tried to mimic in some sort of way. The system does well for the avg consumer
And yes. The one i had in my jeep, locked up great for a year or so. After a few years it got to the point where even when i flipped the switch, only one tire would have torque to it. I do believe over time i completely burned up the clutches inside to the point they would not catch at all
I believe that Eaton locker was called the "ected"
@@Stupidwon1234567 yes. That is the one.
I don't know if they even still make it. In my case, in my TJ, it only lasted about a year and a half. I barely ever actually "locked" it, but the clutches seemed to wear out in a short time. I had to add a limited slip, friction fluid when doing the diff fluid changes. Maybe i didn't have the mix ratio correct. The ECTED worked great as a limited slip, while the clutches were good. :)
I think the slip in the front diff keeps the drive train from destroying itself. These SxS's, all of them, aren't bombproof to begin with so I can't help but think the clutches probably extend the reliability for most users.
I think now that you have a halo and RCV's it won't be long before you break the drive shaft.
Most users is for sure what they are after
Any chance y’all will fix Ticky as a spare rig for trips and throw in the 4 spider gear upgrade to the front diff for the yxz?
Great question!
This is a question for billy to answer lol
-Josh
@@BlownBudgetOffroad Billy pleaseeeee we miss some YXZ content, bashing into obstacles is some much more entertaining to watch lol
Stay tuned for the next video series. They are the hardest we have ever beat any machines down
@@BlownBudgetOffroad I’ll be waiting lol and for y’all to make a wellsville trip 😂
Very cool, i hope it turns out to be rock solid and problem free for you man!
Ha! Got heem!
I’m not positive but I’m guessing there is a computer that is watching the difference between the 2 wheel speed sensors and as it senses more difference it turns that gear engagement plate more to lock the diff.
So basically this is a electronically activated positrack, or limited slip differential, which worked fairly well if maintained. And it is why I have read some are changing the oil often, like every engine oil change.
That’s the theory anyways. This diff did the three wheel peel early in life though
Wonder if you could add more of the discs to the clutch pack so it puts more pressure on it
Just weld it 🤣
I've been waiting for this vid!! Well worth the wait! So far my '19 XMR, 1k miles, diff. works fine. Been seeing a lot of X3's having front diff problems. Seems like it happens when there is a lot of side pressure on one wheel. Maybe relieves pressure on clutch pack? Idk. Anyway, keep the vids coming!
Thanks for the support!
I learned something today! Thx guys...
What did you learn today man!?
@@BlownBudgetOffroad How the inside of my fathers smart lock differential works!
Hope my diff stays together!!!
Prolly won’t of you ride with us 🤣🤣🤣
@@BlownBudgetOffroad : good to know ct gusset works with that diff ! I bought the same gusset after I seen you put it on your x3
Do you guys have a way I could send you some pictures of my I actually broke the whole bottle case and I’m definitely wanting to go with something stronger let me know
Good video. Very informative. Great job!
Thanks!
Hell yeah boys glad to see ol traitor back together 🤘🏻🤟🏻👍🏻
Stay tuned 🤣
Have a 2021 with same exact problem just stripped the gear, thought about welding it to not spend 1400 bucks on it...... when you welded it how was the drivability? And how long did it last?
there are many types of locking diffs, like torsen who uses wormgears, viscous and clutch locks, yours is the last one, nothing unusual
Enjoyed the teardown video fellas!
*Noooice Video!!*
Makes me wonder if the only difference between Rock, mud, and Trail module is the name on the switch..?
😃😃😃 😅😅😅
3k for a diff!! And I thought a billet rzr diff was expensive!
Gotta pay to play. Still better than a dynatrc or a currie for a jeep is how we look at it lol
Ok so the Halo diff works basically like my old 06 Rhino front diff it runs in 2wd it the switch and it goes into an open diff allowing the easiest tire to spin, then hit the switch again and it goes into a full locked diff making both front tires to spin. Seems like they would’ve done that to begin with at the factory. Which makes me think of putting a CanAm Commander motor into my Rhino. By the way how is Aleah doing with the pregnancy good luck to y’all
Have fun with the orange boots 😂😂😂 thinner than paper.
So we have heard 🙄
Where you guys from ? I know in lot of your video you go to the cliffs and the badlands? I’m from by Rockford IL. Always looking for guys to wheel with. I got a 2020 xds RR . Pretty built up. Next month I’ll be going down to the badlands.
We are in Wisconsin. Usually those ride days are spur of the moment. Keep up with social media and our fb group to see when we have a badlands ride again
@@BlownBudgetOffroad awesome! I’m always in Kenosha Wi that’s where I’m from. I got a big group going to Windrock in May. And going to Moab. In September and October
I laughed my ass off with the its a boy comment. Good ole dr Billy delivered
Billy made a funny!
Felt like a d**k! Love you guys and how you ride! Always look forward to your videos!
Stay tuned!
You're probably right unfortunately. Sad day. And will be looking out for the next vid!
Really love the video! Traitor is a beast and i love the build and trying to follow the same setup as my bank account lets me :P. What cage are you running in Traitor?
Thanks man! Justin puts in hard work that’s for sure. We all are running Rzr sharp customs cages.
Hope it works out interesting setup stock
🤘🏻
Awesome video, thanks for the update
Thanks!
You don’t happen to still have that old diff do you? If so I would be interested in buying it
I do but hanging onto it for some dumb reason lol
@@BlownBudgetOffroad if you change your mind or would like to have it rebuilt let me know
hows that halo 30 holding up
Why did y’all stop making videos?!
Nice job!
Thanks!
Are the axles the same length right and left like the stock set up? I’ve heard different reports and I’m just curious
I believe the cup on the diff side is different. From what I understand this diff was originally made to replace the visco loks
-Josh
Yeah there’s been a little bit a debate between a buddy of mine and myself. I know on the visco lok diffs there are two different length axles but my buddy is saying that the halo 30 upgrade on the smart lok versions have interchangeable axles like the stock SL. I know RCV and Turner axles are tough but a spare is always good and it’s would be nice to only have to have one spare from axles to cover breakage on either side
If you look at the thumbnail on the picture you can clearly see that one of the inside cups has a longer shaft. At least I can from the link on Facebook lol
-Josh
Yeah that’s what I thought but said buddy claims that I don’t know what I’m talking about ha ha
Do you have any documentation, or trusted source, that says the lock allows partial engagement. Usually, if not always, diffs are fully locked or fully unlocked. The clutch disks are to allow a smooth cushioned engagement. The rack and pinion style engagement is probably there for a better positive engagement/disengagement and reliability (reduced clutch wear), the design is a whole lot better than a solenoid style engagement mechanism. Having a partial engagement is asking for the clutch disks to burn up, not good, not a good idea at all. I had thought/think the "smart" part is WHEN it engages automatically, not how much to torque to apply to the 'other' wheel. Also, that the computer is looking at spin difference between the front/rear, not side to side on the front.
Not really sure how to further explain. In theory doesn’t always translate to real world applications. We have lots of “field testing” that shows the diff isn’t always locked. On video. Not sure what else is needed to explain, there is a clutch pack that helps it slip therefore it’s not a true locked diff.
-Josh
@@BlownBudgetOffroad of course the diff is not always locked. Are you confusing 4x4 for a locked front diff? In 2x4 the front drive shaft is not under power. In 4x4 the front drive line is under power. The smart lock is only referring to the front diff being "locked" or the clutch pack being engaged, so the difference of 3 or 4 wheels being under power.
2 or "4" is determined in the transmission, where 3 or 4 is determined in the front diff. I'm just questioning if the front diff clutch pack is ever partially engaged; if so, it seems like extreme wear would happen shortly. Since the smart lock engages on the fly, under power, then you need a way to softly engage, hence the need for a clutch pack.
Not questioning any of if it’s in 2 or 4 lol
There is a clutch pack and the computer decides how to apply pressure to that clutch pack. So yes it’s always partially engaged. Trail mode, mud, rock, and trail active one can only assume each have a different style of pressure applied do given information from the sensors. The held down button for “diff lock” isn’t true because if it’s locked it should just let one tire spin lol. Hope this video help all of us understand the diff more
-Josh
@@BlownBudgetOffroad The "assuming" part is what I am questioning. Where do you get the pressure on the clutch pack is variable. Documentation? source?
What size is your shop?
I think it’s 30x40’ but there is a video of this roughly a year ago for details.
It’s Justin’s shop.
-Josh
@@BlownBudgetOffroad thanks man I will look for it
what oil do you put in halo 30
🏆🏆🏆👍🙏
Thank you for.sharing
Thanks for the support
Nice Justin!!!! Im syked for you brutha... that Halo look beautiful in there....its what "traitor" and you needed my man, Cant wait to see the shit you conquer now LOL!🤘🤙
Justin def sends it harder than ever coming soon!
-Josh
@@BlownBudgetOffroad YOU ALL DO!!! LOL!! I've seen the clips for the new stuff, like i said the day i seen em, you guys were out for "blood" and going more hardcore then I've EVER seen you guys go...absolutely bad ass !! Cant wait Josh, im syked!!!! Catch you then!🤙🤘
Now only if we had a larger following we could beat down more brands 🤣🤣🤣
-Josh
Im STILL scratching my head as to why you guys are lacking in the followers/subscribers department ?!?!?!🤔 The awesome, bad ass content is there and the editing is truly very good too, so i been baffled myself my brother (smh) but i know one thing is for an absolute fact...KEEP grinding these vids out and continue doing what you guys do best (that is SENDING IT🙃) and it will ALL pay off BIG TIME!!! Ty my brutha!! Keep your heads up and all four tire skins DOWN!!!!🤘🤙 😜🎥📽💽💵
How much hp It has
In the same spot but blew a smart lock with 30s and 240 miles🤣🤣
Wildcat XX hmmmm arctic cat hmm already have it
Huh?
Yeah, huh?
What do y’all do for your job to afford these expensive parts??
We’re all in the trades. Never take our vehicles in for work, don’t hire people for much (if anything) basically do everything our selves and that all adds up.
@@BlownBudgetOffroad ok understandable
200$ is a lot better than 700$ for the clutch pack on a talon front diff 🙄
Sheer Entertainment
Stay tuned for blow diff offroad adventures
O.k ok stop clicking that damn switch. Lmao. Chalk board finger drag. Ahhhhhhh
Click. Click. Click. 🤣
Nice work! Now go break some more $hit!
Stay tuned !
Oil doesn't look promising.
It will buff! 🤣
It’s to bad these engineers think there doing great things with all this new smart shit. Good old 4x4 then physical locker the operator can control is the best bet. This is why I went with Kawasaki teryx and will go with a krx next.
Thats a great way too blow 4600$
But wait! There’s more! 🤣
Traitor 2.0 lol
Pimp my ride lol