Jared, thanks for the clear, concise video! You make it clear where to connect and how to determine the correct pressure (have to look it up.) Thumbs up!
Interesting - no 22RE that I’m aware of will run the fuel pump continuously with the key on and engine not running. Typically they only run with the starter engaged (key to start position) or engine running. This one must be hot-wired.
The info in this vid is not accurate. The electronic fuel pump is activated by cranking the engine. The air flow meter sends a signal to the circuit opening relay inside the passenger side cabin which closes the relay then energizing the fuel pump.
See my previous reply from a year ago... I forgot to mention in the video that I had a jumper wire connected to the test terminals for the fuel pump relay so it would run with ignition on but not cranking. Thanks for mentioning though for others testing fuel pressure.
@@jmhcj5 for later model OBD1 Toyota fuel injected vehicles 1989 through 1995, (yours is a 1985 - 1988 model) they have a check connector to energize the fuel pump "fp+b"
Here is an inexpensive fuel pressure test kit that should have the correct adapter... www.harborfreight.com/basic-fuel-injection-service-kit-64939.html The M8 x 1.0 banjo bolt adapter should be the one you need.
Could you show me your vacuum lines and what you disconnected and where the efi wires all go if possible. I'm building a 87 4 runner and am in need of some help. Thanks man.
Hey you might have found some all ready but yotatech, and a few other fourms that have toyota mechanics that post the diagrams, super helpful for swapping the motor in my 1991 pickup
Hello Jared, I have a 1992 Toyota pickup 22 re engine, my engine is noisy, similar to your noise, had my valves adjusted, and it did not change anything, curious on your feed back. Thanks, Adam
there are claims that if the valve cover is tightened down too much it might make contact with the valves and create noise, but if the valve lash is set loosely it will also make noise... however, wider gap in the valve lash setting allows the valve to sit on the seat slightly longer, which cools the valve and is therefore advantageous in that sense.
Is there anyone who knows how to get the banjo bolt back on after it was removed? It feels pressurized so won't go in but a small amount before it gets TIGHT. Any one can help???
my 86 4runner cranks but wont start, ive replaced the MAF, full tune up recently, air filter, tested the cold start sensor and injector , any thoughts?
My 93 4runner i think is getting way to much fuel pressure but i dont jave the money to just start buying different things. I go to start it and it immediately revs up to 5000 rpm an wont go down. Thanks
No the 5th injector is at a dead end line feed from the main fuel rail. Injectors need to be taken out, to be cleaned. The 5th injector only fires on cold start up. So it's like how a choke works. Richens the mixture when cold. The engine can fire up without it when cold, and doesn't need it when warm.
I have a few different fuel pressure test kits and I'm pretty sure that adapter was in a kit I got at Harbor Freight a few years back. I'm assuming they probably come with the same adapters these days.
If the pressure is dropping that much when you apply throttle, you could have a clogged filter restricting flow when the injectors need more fuel as engine rpm increases. The fuel pump itself could also be on its way out. One more thing to check in your case is to make sure you are getting a full 12 volts to your fuel pump just to rule out a bad connection.
That was the Trail Gear rock ripper intake kit. It worked out nicely. I think I had to shorten the intake tube slightly between the throttle body and mass air flow sensor to get everything to line up just right. They probably make it a little long on purpose, so you can shorten to fit your application.
It doesn’t have a sensor, it has a regulator and it’s a diaphragm style that runs on vacuum. It’s the metal cylinder looking thing at the back of your fuel rail. It should have 1 vacuum line and 1 fuel return line attatched to it 👍🏼
@@jmhcj5 Chayton James is right, the fuel pump should only turn on once the engine is cranking, its activated by the flapper in the air sensor, yours is bypassed by jumping the b+ and FP at the diagnostic port or at the circuit opening relay beside the ecu.
@@scootsmcgavin8887 Yes, I forgot to mention in the video that the terminals Fp and +B need to be shorted on the check connector to see pressure without the engine running. I already had the jumper wire in place before I started recording. Thank you for pointing that out!
Jared, thanks for the clear, concise video! You make it clear where to connect and how to determine the correct pressure (have to look it up.) Thumbs up!
Interesting - no 22RE that I’m aware of will run the fuel pump continuously with the key on and engine not running. Typically they only run with the starter engaged (key to start position) or engine running. This one must be hot-wired.
Jared, when you removed the ori banjo bolt & replaced with a banjo bolt adapter did the adapter have the fuel hole in it also.
Looks like you have a crack in the PCV closure tube to the PCV valve at the valve cover.
The info in this vid is not accurate. The electronic fuel pump is activated by cranking the engine. The air flow meter sends a signal to the circuit opening relay inside the passenger side cabin which closes the relay then energizing the fuel pump.
See my previous reply from a year ago... I forgot to mention in the video that I had a jumper wire connected to the test terminals for the fuel pump relay so it would run with ignition on but not cranking. Thanks for mentioning though for others testing fuel pressure.
@@jmhcj5 for later model OBD1 Toyota fuel injected vehicles 1989 through 1995, (yours is a 1985 - 1988 model) they have a check connector to energize the fuel pump "fp+b"
Is that fuel line that goes to the cold start supposed to have constant fuel pressure when running?
great video very helpful and no bs
Anyone knows should that fuel pressure be at idle also on a 94 pickup 22re?
Do you have a part number or show where you bought one from? Thank you
Here is an inexpensive fuel pressure test kit that should have the correct adapter...
www.harborfreight.com/basic-fuel-injection-service-kit-64939.html
The M8 x 1.0 banjo bolt adapter should be the one you need.
@@jmhcj5 Thank you
Same here,thanks.
@@jmhcj5have a link to a kit with the adapter for canada, as habiur freight doesn’t ship to canda, thanks
where does the fuel hose on the fuel pressure regulator go to i know where the vacum hose goes to but i have no idea where the fuel hose goes to
Could you show me your vacuum lines and what you disconnected and where the efi wires all go if possible. I'm building a 87 4 runner and am in need of some help. Thanks man.
Hey you might have found some all ready but yotatech, and a few other fourms that have toyota mechanics that post the diagrams, super helpful for swapping the motor in my 1991 pickup
Hello Jared, I have a 1992 Toyota pickup 22 re engine, my engine is noisy, similar to your noise, had my valves adjusted, and it did not change anything, curious on your feed back. Thanks, Adam
there are claims that if the valve cover is tightened down too much it might make contact with the valves and create noise, but if the valve lash is set loosely it will also make noise... however, wider gap in the valve lash setting allows the valve to sit on the seat slightly longer, which cools the valve and is therefore advantageous in that sense.
Is there anyone who knows how to get the banjo bolt back on after it was removed? It feels pressurized so won't go in but a small amount before it gets TIGHT. Any one can help???
I am trying to find the banjo adapter but it is impossible. Do you have a link? the m8x1 is really rare. Thanks!
Harbor Freight sells a kit with that size adapter:
www.harborfreight.com/basic-fuel-injection-service-kit-64939.html
Careful. I snapped the brass adapter using very little force. Steel would be better.
Bro please can you do this on a 2013 Toyota Corolla?
my 86 4runner cranks but wont start, ive replaced the MAF, full tune up recently, air filter, tested the cold start sensor and injector , any thoughts?
Disconnect the fuel pump wire harness and try start up if runs and cut off it send to much fuel. Might the pcm bad
Adjust the Throttle position sensor
The opening circuit relay might be your problem. It's behind the computer on the passenger side kick panel.
Could you leave that fitting on permanently for quick connection in the future?
Hey, that's a good idea.
What about the same model except carburetor
My 93 4runner i think is getting way to much fuel pressure but i dont jave the money to just start buying different things. I go to start it and it immediately revs up to 5000 rpm an wont go down. Thanks
lol your motor would drown itself since it wouldn’t be getting enough air sounds like your throttle cable
Hi could injectors be cleaned where you tapped into 5th injector? And how did truck start without 5 injector disconnected?
No the 5th injector is at a dead end line feed from the main fuel rail. Injectors need to be taken out, to be cleaned.
The 5th injector only fires on cold start up. So it's like how a choke works. Richens the mixture when cold. The engine can fire up without it when cold, and doesn't need it when warm.
Where did you find this banjo bolt adapter? Can't find one locally or online in m8x1.0
I have a few different fuel pressure test kits and I'm pretty sure that adapter was in a kit I got at Harbor Freight a few years back. I'm assuming they probably come with the same adapters these days.
Looks like they still make the same kit with the adapter you would need... www.harborfreight.com/basic-fuel-injection-service-kit-64939.html
@@jmhcj5 damn I was just there and bought a different kit lol. Looks like I'm going back tomorrow
So what would your Idea be of one that is running 40 or so psi but the second you touch the throttle it drops way down to 10 or less and try’s to die.
If the pressure is dropping that much when you apply throttle, you could have a clogged filter restricting flow when the injectors need more fuel as engine rpm increases. The fuel pump itself could also be on its way out. One more thing to check in your case is to make sure you are getting a full 12 volts to your fuel pump just to rule out a bad connection.
What brand air intake/filter is that? I love how clean it looks.
That was the Trail Gear rock ripper intake kit. It worked out nicely. I think I had to shorten the intake tube slightly between the throttle body and mass air flow sensor to get everything to line up just right. They probably make it a little long on purpose, so you can shorten to fit your application.
👍good video!
Where is fuel pressure sensor?
It doesn’t have a sensor, it has a regulator and it’s a diaphragm style that runs on vacuum. It’s the metal cylinder looking thing at the back of your fuel rail. It should have 1 vacuum line and 1 fuel return line attatched to it 👍🏼
I’m pretty sure the fuel pump only kicks on when your motor is cranking for safety reason unless you bypassed it
When the ignition is in the on position your fuel pump will be on to pressurize the fuel rail. The engine does not need to be cranking.
@@jmhcj5 Chayton James is right, the fuel pump should only turn on once the engine is cranking, its activated by the flapper in the air sensor, yours is bypassed by jumping the b+ and FP at the diagnostic port or at the circuit opening relay beside the ecu.
@@scootsmcgavin8887 Yes, I forgot to mention in the video that the terminals Fp and +B need to be shorted on the check connector to see pressure without the engine running. I already had the jumper wire in place before I started recording. Thank you for pointing that out!
Your cam sounds wore out . Check your lobes . I bet they’re gone !
You're volume is waaay low!