I feel a lot more confident learning from an educated, experienced mechanic than from a backyard hack. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
I replaced one of these about 4 or 5 yrs ago on my truck. It burned out last week. I just installed another one over the weekend on the same truck. It's a pretty easy job. The hardest part is getting to it and pulling it out of the truck. Changing the board is a piece of cake. The one that burned out, started to go out almost a year ago when the preignition clikcking stopped. But' the truck still started and ran, so I ran it that way for almost a year. The old board finally gave up the ghost and dead shorted to the case blowing the number 5 , 50amp fuse under the hood. One of the capacitors got so hot that the board burned and it got hot enough to burn thru the silicone mat and short on the case. I was afraid that it would have screwed the logic board, but I put it back in with the new power board and it runs great again. This is just one of those things that happens to these trucks. This is board #3 since I've had the truck. Before you start changing injectors and going deep into that. A new ficm power board is cheap and easy enough to do before getting into changing out injectors.
@@htikelay When it starts to go bad, you won't get the injector clatter when the key is on, engine off. It'll also take a while to start and sometimes run rough. Once it's totally going vehicle Tony start at all. Dieseltechron on TH-cam is the channel to watch for diagnostics. If you're not mechanically inclined, it would probably be best to take it to a diesel mechanic. Lots of things can cause the vehicle to not start. Gotta diagnose it before you start throwing parts at it.
I just received my board from Amazon today. With your video I'll be removing the other one and installing this one. Wish me luck I was hoping I did not have to have any kind of reconfiguration with the computer. Thanks for the video!
Thank you very much. I am an engineer, gear head but know very little about a diesel. I am late to thank you for your great video and help on my truck. About 2 years ago I bought a 2004 F250 Extended cab long bed with the DREADED 6.0. I noticed when I went to buy it they had warmed it up, bad sign! I drove it and it ran like a scalded dog. It had 108K miles and looked great and the price was low so I knew there could be issues but thought at what price I bought it I could fix whatever issues and still come out ok. There was no blow by and no white chalk on degas bottle. It had not been head studded but was egr deleted and had a SCT turner. I got it home and started to check it out more thoroughly. It had a 100hp tune (hence the snappy acceleration). I put it back to stock and it still ran well but on cold start up it clacked like crazy for about 1 to 2 minutes. Going by your video I checked the FICM voltage and it was in the neighborhood of 35-38v (I think this is why they had warmed it up before I got there to buy it). I then ordered a FICM board for $40 bucks. You said it was easy and I thought it could not be that easy or everyone would do what you suggested but for $40 I thought I would give it a shot. You did not lie. In a less that 45 minutes (my fumbling was most time consuming) I had 48 to 49.5v FICM working like it should. After 2 years and 20K miles it is still doing great. Thanks again for saving me big $$$s. Could you do a video on boost and how to check if the vanes are working correctly? Mine seems to lag on bottom end but may just be normal for a diesel. I watched your vid on cleaning a turbo but wondered if there was a way to check for sticking vanes without removing the turbo.
Great video man. I watched this more than a few months ago now and got the part. Super simple and easy to do. My ficm voltage would be at 46.5 to 48 while causing around but with this new part installed I am sitting around 49.5 most times I have not seen it drop lower than 48v. Keep up the great work man.
My 06 f350 6.0L is doing the same as what he just showed. Still starts and runs but the ficm power starts around 40v then slowly climbs upto 48 to 49.50 volts.
Great video! Recently i just change the same part and i bring it to the mechanic but he said it dont work because it need to be programed thats true? Thank u.
I have a 05 f350 with a burnt pin 4 on the X3 connector, I had a strange miss at idle at random from time to time but never anything other than idle, what would cause that ?
Have a 2007 f350 had the 611 code main voltage was dropping to 33 so I got a used ficm which all voltages are perfect but when I cycle key ya can hear no injector clatter starts n runs good also had a p0268 then a p0269 came along truck runs a Lil rough now injectors are only 6 months old
Unless the ficm is programmed you won’t hear the injector buzz. In this repair he is only repairing the voltage power portion of the ficm so he didn’t need to reprogram it cause the logic portion stores re programmed data. You replaced it with another ficm that doesn’t have the data required by your pcm to talk with your ficm so that’s why your experiencing this issue. The cure would be to reprogram the ficm or get a ficm preprogrammed or repair the original if it had voltage issue an reinstall.
Hello I have a 2005 f350 6.0 I had the Ficm replace and a couple off mouth later it did the same thing and I haven’t stared since 2017 I just bought the Ficm from allient so you think that I have to drain the old Disel or just leave it
The fuel is probably ok. I would add some fuel treatment to it. Make sure you don’t have battery voltage or charging issues. Those are the biggest causes of FICM failure.
@@InTheShop agreed. i think the largest cause of failure is the fact they cheap out o solder making the connections on the power board i have been able to repair a few of these just by soldering the connections "adequately" I also like to pull the dip stick up and out of the way while pulling the air filter because those things are stupidly fragile as well because plastic parts on a diesel engine is a "brilliant: bit of engineering. thanks for the great videos they have helped me out a lot
Must have been a guy hired by Ford from the GM 6.5L team at Stanadyne who said I know it didn't work when we mounted the fuel electronics in the V of the engine on, but we just put them to the top, im sure the cooling will be good enough now...
Hey great video I have a 06 e450 bluebird micro bus that I was given as payment to clear out a barn and all it needed was batteries a installed 2 brand new ones and it started right up sounds great for about 40 min or so and I shut it off it did not want to start again so I checked every fuse under the dash and found one blown I replaced it and bam she fired right up I don’t know what the fuse was too cause I don’t have the chart but it ran fine and then I shut it off and again it will not start so I checked the same fuse and it was not blown, I am getting p0611 code and some other glow plug codes , could this be a ficmu issue . Thanks please help
@@InTheShop I replaced the main relay and it is running great so far , I had a mechanic running a scan test and it checked out fine no codes , i am giving the bus to my daughter she is planning on doing a mini house rv conversion is there anything that I can do to improve relay ability in this engine , thanks for the response
The FICM has two ,,parts,, POWER and BRAIN,, if you replace just POWER part what chances the ,,BRAIN,, part is BAD...would it be better to replace the whole thing?
@@mikeches7992 good luck with finding a used PCM for less than $500. The reason I had to replace one was due to a harness failure caused by human error. First one I bought was a bad unit. Look very closely to each pin on a potential used PCM. What you want to avoid is any unit that shows signs of heated plastic surrounding any of the pins.
Hey can you help me? The problem I have with my 2007 6.0L powerstroke is that only buzz test the injectors when the engine is at operating temperature but if the engine is cold don't buzz test the injectors so the engine don't start. What's the problem then?. I'm not sure if the FICM is the problem here. I think it's a wiring problem or something. All fuses are fine (the ones on the engine side and the cabin too). Once the engine is at operating temp runs like a champ, by the way the truck is 100% bone stock.
It sounds like you have stiction in the injectors. When the oil is cold and thick the spool valves can not move. Once the oil is warm and thins out the spool valves move freely. Try an oil additive such as RevX and see if they helps.
@@InTheShop I added 2 quarts of marvel mystery oil to the oil (I put brand new oil of course, rotella t6 15w40) and now the injectors started again to buzz when the engine is cold. Now it start without problems. I always suspected the injectors was the problemsThanks for the reply.👍
Great video In the Shop! i got an 03 F350, 6.0, the other morning went to start it and it seemed to be hydro locked, it did crank for 1/2 a turn or so, every time I tried to crank it, felt like the starter engaged but could not turn the engine. Today it turned and felt like engine wanted to fire, releasing the starter from the flywheel, but never fired. Checked several videos and seems that the FICM is the problem but not sure yet, any suggestion? Thank you!
Its hard to say without being it myself but hydrolocked is usually a bad injector or a bad egr cooler allowing coolant into the cylinders. A bad FICM won't cause a hydrolocked condition.
I recently turned my truck off to get fuel. Went to start and it cranks and I get oil pressure but found the voltage on my tuner for my ficm drops slowly from 50 down to 2volts . i figure its prob a failed power supply just wanted your thoughts.
Hey stupid question I have a 05 f350 it has the 7 pin ficm nun of my local parts stores can get a 7 pin an due to Corona bull crap I havent been able to order one.my question is will a 4 pin fixn work in place of the 7 pin.i put sum of the tape over the three holes that will not be used an the 4 pin bolts right in.will this work or screw something up realy bad I've been debating on putting it in an trying but I'd like a opion of someone who noes what they are doing.they look identical except the 4 pin has three less holes
@@InTheShop I was afraid of that .it jus seemed worth asking but I was afraid to plug it in an try it.wheir would be the best place to get one online all th auto parts stores say they cant get a 7 pin.i seen one on Ebay for like 50 bucks ruffly but I'm not trying to be cheap .I jus want a good one.or if I had to buy a 4 pin one what's the best way to go who makes the best
Thanks for watching Anthony. I personally feel the Bulletproof setup is overpriced for what you get. There are other options out there like the Alliant power FICMs that I feel are a better value. That being said the Dorman power supplies have shown to be pretty reliable and are a great option for the DIY guy or someone on a budget.
I think every more than adding diesel requires the cab to be removed. I don’t know how he gets to this stuff let alone getting it back. I wish I lived near him. Most of the diesel guys near me are hacks.
Misael Gonzalez, básicamente el dice que cuando falla el módulo, típicamente ese el “power supply” o componente de electricidad que manda los 48 voltios a los inyectores, el costo es como 100 dólares en el link de Amazon que el provee, la mayoría de las veces es ese el único problema. Además dice que tengas cuidado de poner bien los conectores cuando lo instales en la troca porque están duros y puedes pensar que entraron y después se sueltan.
I feel a lot more confident learning from an educated, experienced mechanic than from a backyard hack. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
Thank you for watching! People like you are the reason I make these videos.
I replaced one of these about 4 or 5 yrs ago on my truck. It burned out last week. I just installed another one over the weekend on the same truck. It's a pretty easy job. The hardest part is getting to it and pulling it out of the truck. Changing the board is a piece of cake. The one that burned out, started to go out almost a year ago when the preignition clikcking stopped. But' the truck still started and ran, so I ran it that way for almost a year. The old board finally gave up the ghost and dead shorted to the case blowing the number 5 , 50amp fuse under the hood. One of the capacitors got so hot that the board burned and it got hot enough to burn thru the silicone mat and short on the case. I was afraid that it would have screwed the logic board, but I put it back in with the new power board and it runs great again. This is just one of those things that happens to these trucks. This is board #3 since I've had the truck. Before you start changing injectors and going deep into that. A new ficm power board is cheap and easy enough to do before getting into changing out injectors.
So, what happened when FICM is bad? Please reply me
Thank you
@@htikelay When it starts to go bad, you won't get the injector clatter when the key is on, engine off. It'll also take a while to start and sometimes run rough. Once it's totally going vehicle Tony start at all. Dieseltechron on TH-cam is the channel to watch for diagnostics. If you're not mechanically inclined, it would probably be best to take it to a diesel mechanic. Lots of things can cause the vehicle to not start. Gotta diagnose it before you start throwing parts at it.
Okay, Thank you so much, and May God Bless.
I just received my board from Amazon today. With your video I'll be removing the other one and installing this one. Wish me luck I was hoping I did not have to have any kind of reconfiguration with the computer. Thanks for the video!
Out here in Oregon. Wish I was closer to wrench with you. Cool dude. Thanks for great 6.0 vids
Thank you very much. I am an engineer, gear head but know very little about a diesel. I am late to thank you for your great video and help on my truck. About 2 years ago I bought a 2004 F250 Extended cab long bed with the DREADED 6.0. I noticed when I went to buy it they had warmed it up, bad sign! I drove it and it ran like a scalded dog. It had 108K miles and looked great and the price was low so I knew there could be issues but thought at what price I bought it I could fix whatever issues and still come out ok. There was no blow by and no white chalk on degas bottle. It had not been head studded but was egr deleted and had a SCT turner. I got it home and started to check it out more thoroughly. It had a 100hp tune (hence the snappy acceleration). I put it back to stock and it still ran well but on cold start up it clacked like crazy for about 1 to 2 minutes. Going by your video I checked the FICM voltage and it was in the neighborhood of 35-38v (I think this is why they had warmed it up before I got there to buy it). I then ordered a FICM board for $40 bucks. You said it was easy and I thought it could not be that easy or everyone would do what you suggested but for $40 I thought I would give it a shot. You did not lie. In a less that 45 minutes (my fumbling was most time consuming) I had 48 to 49.5v FICM working like it should. After 2 years and 20K miles it is still doing great. Thanks again for saving me big $$$s. Could you do a video on boost and how to check if the vanes are working correctly? Mine seems to lag on bottom end but may just be normal for a diesel. I watched your vid on cleaning a turbo but wondered if there was a way to check for sticking vanes without removing the turbo.
Great video man. I watched this more than a few months ago now and got the part. Super simple and easy to do. My ficm voltage would be at 46.5 to 48 while causing around but with this new part installed I am sitting around 49.5 most times I have not seen it drop lower than 48v. Keep up the great work man.
Great video, my FICM was giving me sporadic voltage and in a couple hours I had the board replaced and had the truck running. Running 48-49V now
Awesome! Thanks Wayne!
Genius explanation of how to unplug the 3 connectors. Ridiculousness
I may be trying this in a few days. Thanks for posting this.
My 06 f350 6.0L is doing the same as what he just showed. Still starts and runs but the ficm power starts around 40v then slowly climbs upto 48 to 49.50 volts.
Great video! Recently i just change the same part and i bring it to the mechanic but he said it dont work because it need to be programed thats true? Thank u.
Blessings Thank you for your great knowledge
I have a 05 f350 with a burnt pin 4 on the X3 connector, I had a strange miss at idle at random from time to time but never anything other than idle, what would cause that ?
Thanks for the knowledge with your videos
Have a 2007 f350 had the 611 code main voltage was dropping to 33 so I got a used ficm which all voltages are perfect but when I cycle key ya can hear no injector clatter starts n runs good also had a p0268 then a p0269 came along truck runs a Lil rough now injectors are only 6 months old
Unless the ficm is programmed you won’t hear the injector buzz. In this repair he is only repairing the voltage power portion of the ficm so he didn’t need to reprogram it cause the logic portion stores re programmed data. You replaced it with another ficm that doesn’t have the data required by your pcm to talk with your ficm so that’s why your experiencing this issue. The cure would be to reprogram the ficm or get a ficm preprogrammed or repair the original if it had voltage issue an reinstall.
Awesome video!!!!!
Great Video!!!
I also have a 03 6.0 crank sensor Circuit fault ?
Hello I have a 2005 f350 6.0 I had the Ficm replace and a couple off mouth later it did the same thing and I haven’t stared since 2017 I just bought the Ficm from allient so you think that I have to drain the old Disel or just leave it
The fuel is probably ok. I would add some fuel treatment to it. Make sure you don’t have battery voltage or charging issues. Those are the biggest causes of FICM failure.
Also I'm wondering who was the genius that though to put an electronic board on top of an engine that get very hot. 🙄
I agree they shouldn't be mounted on the engine but they also fail on the econoline vans and they are mounted remotely. Thank you for watching
@@InTheShop agreed. i think the largest cause of failure is the fact they cheap out o solder making the connections on the power board i have been able to repair a few of these just by soldering the connections "adequately"
I also like to pull the dip stick up and out of the way while pulling the air filter because those things are stupidly fragile as well because plastic parts on a diesel engine is a "brilliant: bit of engineering.
thanks for the great videos they have helped me out a lot
Must have been a guy hired by Ford from the GM 6.5L team at Stanadyne who said I know it didn't work when we mounted the fuel electronics in the V of the engine on, but we just put them to the top, im sure the cooling will be good enough now...
@@niteflite1287 are you sure it wasn't the idea from the engineers at Saturn?
i know this this a late comment but just wondering what's the benefits and or problems of upping the volts or keeping the volts stock 48
I would stick with stock 48 volts. The 58 volt thing was popular for a while but it was found that its not beneficial.
Can my 2006 F250 run with a 7 pin fICM and not a 4 pin
Any suggestions of the best place to get replacement connectors for the ficm module, as the clips on connectors have busted.
Try Alliant Power
You could also go this route
amzn.to/3SsVcDu
Great explanation. Kind of made me feel a cave man could do it. Thanks
One just did. ;)
tell me.The voltage on the module is 48.5, on an idle engine, and the injectors are not tested!
What scan tool are you using?
2003 FORD F450 dump fluid through the exhaust what can cause that problem please if you can help me with that.
Is it coolant?
@@InTheShop yes
where to locate FICM to a 2009 grand starex vgt a/t?
I'm not familiar with that particular vehicle.
Do they also sell modules for the 7 bolt ficm?
Unfortunately they don't.
Hey great video I have a 06 e450 bluebird micro bus that I was given as payment to clear out a barn and all it needed was batteries a installed 2 brand new ones and it started right up sounds great for about 40 min or so and I shut it off it did not want to start again so I checked every fuse under the dash and found one blown I replaced it and bam she fired right up I don’t know what the fuse was too cause I don’t have the chart but it ran fine and then I shut it off and again it will not start so I checked the same fuse and it was not blown, I am getting p0611 code and some other glow plug codes , could this be a ficmu issue . Thanks please help
I would need to know what fuse number keeps blowing in order to help.
@@InTheShop I replaced the main relay and it is running great so far , I had a mechanic running a scan test and it checked out fine no codes , i am giving the bus to my daughter she is planning on doing a mini house rv conversion is there anything that I can do to improve relay ability in this engine , thanks for the response
Thank you for sharing good video.👍😎🇺🇸
Good video
The FICM has two ,,parts,, POWER and BRAIN,, if you replace just POWER part what chances the ,,BRAIN,, part is BAD...would it be better to replace the whole thing?
Mike Ches it’s possible for the brain side to fail but very rare. Low voltage issues are a failure of the power supply.
How often the COMPUTER FAIL the one on the fender by the battery?
@@mikeches7992 good luck with finding a used PCM for less than $500.
The reason I had to replace one was due to a harness failure caused by human error. First one I bought was a bad unit. Look very closely to each pin on a potential used PCM. What you want to avoid is any unit that shows signs of heated plastic surrounding any of the pins.
Hey can you help me?
The problem I have with my 2007 6.0L powerstroke is that only buzz test the injectors when the engine is at operating temperature but if the engine is cold don't buzz test the injectors so the engine don't start. What's the problem then?. I'm not sure if the FICM is the problem here. I think it's a wiring problem or something. All fuses are fine (the ones on the engine side and the cabin too). Once the engine is at operating temp runs like a champ, by the way the truck is 100% bone stock.
It sounds like you have stiction in the injectors. When the oil is cold and thick the spool valves can not move. Once the oil is warm and thins out the spool valves move freely. Try an oil additive such as RevX and see if they helps.
@@InTheShop
I added 2 quarts of marvel mystery oil to the oil (I put brand new oil of course, rotella t6 15w40) and now the injectors started again to buzz when the engine is cold. Now it start without problems. I always suspected the injectors was the problemsThanks for the reply.👍
Great video In the Shop! i got an 03 F350, 6.0, the other morning went to start it and it seemed to be hydro locked, it did crank for 1/2 a turn or so, every time I tried to crank it, felt like the starter engaged but could not turn the engine. Today it turned and felt like engine wanted to fire, releasing the starter from the flywheel, but never fired. Checked several videos and seems that the FICM is the problem but not sure yet, any suggestion? Thank you!
Its hard to say without being it myself but hydrolocked is usually a bad injector or a bad egr cooler allowing coolant into the cylinders. A bad FICM won't cause a hydrolocked condition.
Most likely a loose injector that hammered out the copper washer
Show where to sodier fix it
I recently turned my truck off to get fuel. Went to start and it cranks and I get oil pressure but found the voltage on my tuner for my ficm drops slowly from 50 down to 2volts . i figure its prob a failed power supply just wanted your thoughts.
Check to make sure the ficm supply voltage is good before replacing the power supply. If supply voltage is good you definitely need a power supply
You should of said what size torque heads etc you were using….
What about if the ficm logic voltage or the other voltage is bad? Can this repair fix that? Or does this repair only fix the ficm for the 48 volts?
Unfortunately this only repairs the 48 volt portion.
@@InTheShop at least I know now thank you bro can that portion be repaired?
Hey stupid question I have a 05 f350 it has the 7 pin ficm nun of my local parts stores can get a 7 pin an due to Corona bull crap I havent been able to order one.my question is will a 4 pin fixn work in place of the 7 pin.i put sum of the tape over the three holes that will not be used an the 4 pin bolts right in.will this work or screw something up realy bad I've been debating on putting it in an trying but I'd like a opion of someone who noes what they are doing.they look identical except the 4 pin has three less holes
Unfortunately you can’t use a 4 pin power supply in a 7 pin FICM. You can put a complete 4 pin FICM in the truck though.
@@InTheShop I was afraid of that .it jus seemed worth asking but I was afraid to plug it in an try it.wheir would be the best place to get one online all th auto parts stores say they cant get a 7 pin.i seen one on Ebay for like 50 bucks ruffly but I'm not trying to be cheap .I jus want a good one.or if I had to buy a 4 pin one what's the best way to go who makes the best
Thanks for teln me it woildnt work I'd probably freid something else.i anttrying to be cheap jus need my truck
Do a how to change PCM. I can't seem to find video on that
Changing a PCM requires reprogramming and typical can’t be done by the average person in their driveway.
part numpr ples
Hey Man I did this and am now only getting 40v Have any idea why?
What is your battery voltage and also your FICM input voltage?
In The Shop both 14. Before I did it in the morning when I would first start the truck it would read low like 43-45 then come up to 47-47.5
I’ve never seen it but if all of the input voltages at the FICM are good and your voltage is at 40 I would say you probably got a defective board.
In The Shop I’m thinking so too. Will the edge monitors and the sct x4 read the voltage accurately?
I recommend a Bullet Proof FICM kit I stay away from all Dorman products....
Thanks for watching Anthony. I personally feel the Bulletproof setup is overpriced for what you get. There are other options out there like the Alliant power FICMs that I feel are a better value. That being said the Dorman power supplies have shown to be pretty reliable and are a great option for the DIY guy or someone on a budget.
You can rebuild the PSU instead of buying a new one.
Correct but that is out of most people’s ability or comfort level.
@@InTheShop Agreed. I was just letting folks know it's an option. 😀
I think every more than adding diesel requires the cab to be removed. I don’t know how he gets to this stuff let alone getting it back. I wish I lived near him. Most of the diesel guys near me are hacks.
Thanks Jeffrey! I really appreciate the comments.
En espñol
No hablo español
Misael Gonzalez, básicamente el dice que cuando falla el módulo, típicamente ese el “power supply” o componente de electricidad que manda los 48 voltios a los inyectores, el costo es como 100 dólares en el link de Amazon que el provee, la mayoría de las veces es ese el único problema.
Además dice que tengas cuidado de poner bien los conectores cuando lo instales en la troca porque están duros y puedes pensar que entraron y después se sueltan.
SBC Wood and Metal thank you for translating