BMW s1000rr engine refresh part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2020
- Ever wondered what's inside your engine and how it all works? Dave will talk you through the parts and processes as he strips a BMW s1000rr engine for a refresh. In part 1 Dave is measuring valve clearances, checking cam timing and performing a leak down test.
Omg I remember watching this a while back. And now it randomly popped back up and now I'm like omg it's you.. Now I'm aware of who you and you type of content.
As an owner of a s1000rr with 57k miles I sure am glad I subbed to this channel during the ducati refresh!
It should be about run in by that mileage :)
@@obsession_engineering are the s1000rr main and rod caps steel or aluminum??
Subscribed during the Ducati series and still here... The simple explanations go a long way to understanding the technical bits 👏
Really enjoying your informative videos Dave, appreciate the time it takes faffing round with cameras and editing! cheers
Another great video Dave, your mix of dry humour and information is brilliant.
nice little intro to a bmw engine, looking forward to more of this! thank you.
great work, loving these.
Brilliant tutorial , thanks Dave 👍
Looking forward to the next one 👍
Love your videos, keep it going
Awesome I Learnt something today
It should be noted that the leak test was done on a cold engine.
That said, I do not know if any significant difference would be noticed on the engine at operating temperature. I am guessing that the leakage would be slightly higher. But this is only an assumption.
Great video!
Hello Dave... i have a 2018 S1000rr with a little over 7k miles and it dropped an Intake valve (#1 Cylinder) and also lost a wrist pin clip (#1 Cylinder) which then allowed the wrist pin to get up against the cylinder (at the 3 O'clock of the cylinder). I've watched all 8 videos to help me disassemble and I've spoke to a few Mechanics about my options. It seems that when the valve dropped, it broke and then gouged the valve seat a bit. I'm told this can be fixed but I'm better off replacing the Valve Head as it may take months to get this done. As for the Cylinder, I'm told the same thing... The scratches can be fixed but it will take a while to get this done and I should replace the Cylinder Head as well. Another option I'm exploring is just finding a motor from a crashed bike. I have found one on Ebay and it has around 12k miles and I'm told that it is in good shape but it has some rust in the top end, only in the valve area (can be seen in pics). My preference is to just replace the motor and then check a few things out before bolting it into the bike but I wanted to ask you if (a) I can remove the rust and clean up the Valve Head, and (b) how would you recommend going about this, (c) and what else I might need to check or (d) Do not purchase a motor with any rust in it and take a different route. The seller has a 99.6 rating and has a 30 day warranty and has told me that if I find that the motor has damage and will not run they will take it back and I will not have to pay shipping. One other route is to purchase a complete Valve Head and Crank Case and then transfer my engine parts into this and of course replace the Piston, Guide, Rings, Wrist pin, etc. I would really like to get your feedback on this to see how you would go about tackling this problem. P.S. My best friend owns a Bike shop and has been working on engines for 40 years so he can help out with some of this, plus I have a great set of tools and I'm quite savvy with tools and all the mechanical stuff as I've been tinkering with just about everything with a motor for 35 plus years, plus I learn quickly and know how to use Google and TH-cam (which is how I found you). Anyway, looking for your feedback before I go ahead and tackle this project and get my S1000rr back on the road (and track) again. Cheers....
Mmmmm, nice.
Hi mate, thanks for your video, great narrative👌👌
Do you suggest any ways to check the valve timing without that special tool, cheers
Normally the timing doesn't move much but without the special tool they are very difficult to set correctly
Love the vid Dave. Always interested in the insidy bits of my S1000rr. As you have done a few of these engines, Do you know what the ticking noise is that all the S model engines have?. Left hand side loudest between 3k and 4k RPM. Forums are full of misinformation. Thanks in advance mate.
I've never been concerned enough about the noise to really try and find the issue. I suspect it's a valve train noise (coming on or off cam) and is noisier on the left as the cam drive on the right probably hides some of the issue
Again👌👌
Hi, I have a clutch question, I’m putting the plates back in. I have black plates for each end but no colour on the middle plates, is it wrong to have the little curves all together?
Thanks for your help
I like to put the little curves together, it satisfies my ocd
Do I need the alignment jig? Or is there another way? With lining up the cams.
There are marks on the cams (and crank/cam drive) for normal use. I had the tool in case I'm building different cams or parts into an engine
Hi, tell me what compression is considered normal on BMW s1000rr k46 2017, I watched you unpacking the engine and measuring the compression, what value should be according to the manual, please help me, I'm from Kyrgyzstan there is no such information here
I do leak down tests not compression tests as it's a better indicator of engine condition.
I'd expect a compression test to show over 150psi though
You sound like Mr. Bean (Rowen Atkinson).
This engine comes in the S1000XR so I’m wondering if it’s possible to advance cam timing on this engine to move the tq curve down to a lower rpm level for street use?
Different cams, springs and valves in the R and Xr.
I've not measured but would be wary of piston to valve clearance moving too far
Thank you for your reply sir. I’m currently riding a ‘20 R1250RS but at 65 I’d like a more comfortable and upright seating position like those on Adv bikes. So I’m going to test ride a ‘21 S1000XR in a couple of weeks. I’m a big tq fan for 2up riding and passing logging trucks here in Maine, USA so my main concern with the XR’s engine is how soft it feels at lower rpm’s.
Thanks for this very informative video. A question regarding measuring the valve clearances. I notice that you measure the gap between the cam and the top face of the cam follower, rather than between the cam follower face and the valve shim itself. I have done a Japanese bike that also utilizes cam followers (rather than buckets), and the manual specifically instructs to measure the gap between the the bottom face of the cam follower and the valve shim. I have looked into the BMW S manual and it does not specify which gap to measure. Unless the point of contact where the cam lobe meets the top of the cam follower face is perfectly in alignment with the center of the valve shim, the measured gaps would be different over the same valve shim given the 2 places where the feeler gauge can be positioned. Can you provide some clarification as to which gap to measure? Has any source from the BMW factory provided clarification on this question? Thanks again for you much needed video.
I've tried both ways and have to admit to doing the clearance between the cam and rocker as it's easier to get to and I'm generally looking for a consistent clearance as a quick check for any issues. If they're out of spec I tend to measure twice to be sure.
@@obsession_engineering Thanks Dave for your reply and confirmation. I did contact the local BMW Motorrad service dept. and received the same confirmation. Also, upon more careful review of the service manual, it does say to measure between the cam and follower arm. (rocker). On this basis, there are several valves where access is not easy to get to. Love your videos. Thanks.
@@winfieldjung7261 On my Kawasaki the manual also says to measure between rocker and shim. You get consistently different values between rocker and cam with this engine.
@@io3204 You really shouldn't be getting "consistently different values between rocker and cam" unless you have rotated the camshaft between measurement events and the ramp for the cam lobe has come too close to the rocker (finger follower) contact surface, and the gap you're measuring is not at the "base circle" of the cam face.
@@winfieldjung9370 I meant you get different values when you measure rocker/cam compared to rocker/shim.
Hey mate, can I ask a question. I’ve went to change my cam chain tensioner as “the old mech” said to. But the crank turned a quarter then stopped. Do you have any ideas? It just stop turning. Thanks
Sounds like the timing moved and it's going piston to valve.
Take the crank end (pickup) cover off, align the dots on the crank and chain wheel, then rocker cover off and there's marks on the cams that should line up with the head, and each other
Yep. I do think it’s out. Can I send you photos?
Would have I bent a valve?
hello greetings from mexico can you help me to know how many pounds. They must carry the connecting road
Where the bmw stand come from
what kinda stand is this
Jesus, the length of the thread on the plug compared to other bikes. Is that real?
Hey can u tell me what service book or CD I can get for the maintenance and tourq specs
I have a copy of the BMW service manual on DVD, found from a popular auction site
@@obsession_engineering do u think u can send me link
@ 3:47 "viar rocker arm"
VIA, nor "VIAR"
Hello somebody can give me the valve clearence value for an s1000rr enginre of 2010? for a french man thanks
@ 2:34 onwards you're not stating what size feeler gauges you're using, one slides the other doesn't...............shims are in .01 incriments.
what year bike is this from?
It's a gen 3, 2015-2018. The only differences between the 15/16 and 17/18 are really minor (clutch cover sound deadening!), soall the same really. Even the gen1 and gen2 are very similar, Crankcases, head castings, pistons, rods are all the same
@@obsession_engineering ok i have a 2010 s1000rr.. makes alot of engine noise.. is this normal? see link
th-cam.com/video/t4Y2A2XYvTs/w-d-xo.html
My 2020 M Package needs a new cylinder head, valve coating.
Yeah, I heard about the recall for those. Good that it's a warranty job!!
@@obsession_engineering I got the bike back yesterday, rode it into my driveway. I tried many times yesterday and today and it will not fire up. 2800M/4500Km. Must contact them tomorrow, it happened last Sunday week also before they contacted me about the cyl. head.
Lighting is flickering on the vid
I tried a different camera, I'll be reverting to the old one for future vids
Try a twin tube light, it should stop the strobing
Time for this 0 experience youngin to sit down and tackle my ‘10 engine with gold flakes.
If there's gold flakes, it'll need a crank as the gold is from the mains or big ends. Hopefully it's not spun a shell and damaged the Crankcase
@@obsession_engineering ty for the reply/insight! Hoping I find general knowledge or even better, specific/correct procedure to disassemble the bike and take a peek at what went wrong.
Mmmmm, nice.