Drew was very helpful giving me ideas to finish installing my storm door. I liked this video and his knowledge enough to call and ask him. And he called me back. And I live in Florida. Thank you Drew!
Robert - it was great speaking with you. I'm glad you found our video and our conversation helpful! Good luck with your project. Let us know how it turns out!
Thank you. Glad you like it. Hope you found it helpful! We appreciate your comment! I'd like to invite you to subscribe to our channel for more great home improvement tips to help you know what questions you should ask as you screen various contractors for work on your home.
Love such an innovative solution to this situation! That’s truly finding a workable solution that literally looks amazing! So we’re going on 10 years strong with our Larson storm doors. One was to reduce UV and the other was for security. I know…why not get the same type for both entrances? I gave it a lot of thought when we moved to this old house…the door most likely to be kicked in by burglars is the side entry where neighbors may not have a clear view. So it had the security storm door. Then we ended up having 4 extra large dogs…and though we don’t have a burglar problem…we do have 4 extra large dogs charging at the security storm door every time we go outside. That door was a God send in that they’ve all crashed into it thousands of times and it held! Both doors cost us a lot, but worth EVERY expensive penny we put into them. That said, we’re driven nuts by Larson storm door sweep replacements. It’s hell to install. And then the seal prevents the security storm door from ever closing on it’s own despite two installed auto closures set so strong it kills my ankles slamming into me…and still not latch close. I have to ALWAYS manually close it. Now I’m reading to leave a 1/2 inch gap in the next to impossible sweep. We got these little blue/grey lizards that already venture in when that door doesn’t close all the way. If we leave a 1/2 inch gap, that’s like an invitation for them to come in die somewhere in our home. Is there a real solution to the horrid installation AND not leaving the 1/2 inch gap???
Lan Dai Hilton... thanks for you detailed comment!! Great to hear that the doors are holding up. We have enjoyed long term larson success on our own home as well. Sadly, no, i have not found a solution to make the door close, other than to leave a gap at the bottom to allow the air to escape. SOMETIMES... and i do me some of the time... on occasion... i have been able to adjust the location of the closer mount in the jamb... moving it FURTHER from the storm door hinge, and closer to the interior of the home.... OR.... moving the door mount 1 inch further from the hinge side, and closer to the latch side on the storm door slab. This adds extra tension... and then i can add more cushion with the adjustment screw. The second approach is the "least invasive" in that you have two screws securing the mount to the door slab. remove both screws. move the mount further from the hinge side, and put it back in with just that 1 screw... adjust the close speed cushion, and test. If you don't like it, you can put it back, and you haven't drilled any extra holes anywhere. A similar approach can be tried on the jamb mount, but you may have to "hold it" against the jamb as 2 screws on the outdoor side of things won't hold against the tension from the pressure without the 2 inboard screws. Give it a whirl and comment back letting us know how you make out. If you haven't subscribed, we'd like to invite you to do that now for more great weekly content! Thanks again for your question.
To your knowledge is the a closer that will allow for greater than 90 degrees of swing when opening? The 90 degree ones don’t ever really open at 90 degrees they a suck
That’s a great question - I haven’t personally seen one that opens beyond 90 degrees, but I did a quick search for "commercial style storm door closer" and found this link to Amazon... Claims it allows it to open to 180°... Screen and Storm Door Rotary Hydraulic Closer | MPOWR Hydraulic POWR-Closer 800 a.co/d/3C30h6i The Larson Platinum storm door now has an integrated closer, But I don't believe you can get past 90° with those. Hope this helps
Installed a Larson but also had to rebuild deteriorated Masonry and add new brick mold. Nice and plumb, but probably door/trim (aluminum) spacing tolerances too tight because when it rains, wood swells and door contacts the trim along the handle-side. Any solutions? Can shave aluminum and repaint od remove trim, shave wood and reinstall. A lot of work, though.
Great question. I have a lot more tools for massaging and adjusting wood... And less tools for doing the same things to aluminum... So my inclination is to remove the storm door and modify the wood or pvc brick molding that it mounts to, And then reinstall the storm door... Lot less things for me to screw up that way... And very little chance of me having to go buy a new $350 storm door. But if you have the experience and expertise to modify the aluminum, go for it
your good Drew....I'm looking for a vid that can help with a storm door that is very hard to OPEN...Its at my buddies house and I think it has been getting worse and worse as time has went by until last time I was over there it took him almost 10 minutes for him to get it to release and open from the outside where we were trying to get in! Its a heavy duty door all he can do is to turn the door handle and pull pull pull- sort of like trying to shock it so that it releases, but we don't really know what is holding it closed, getting it stuck.Can you help? It even does the same thing from the inside...He's one of those type people that ALWAYS locks his storm door when he stays in or leaves the house. I'm supposed to fix it for him..I'm pretty good with tools and improvising to figure out a fix for things, but doors and turning handles I really don't know very much about- Id have to watch alot of videos on these things- because I know I have alot to learn. Even if you just suggest where I might want to concentrate my attention, it will be beneficial to me. Thank you for your response ahead of time.
Hey Dartell... thanks for your comment... if you haven't subscribed to our channel yet, please do so, as we are publishing helpful content 2 to 3 times a week and we don't want you to miss an episode. If I had to guess... the door is dragging... over time it has sagged and the latch side is resting hard on the bottom threshold and you need to "LIFT" the door to make it open (or pull really hard). You could use a turnbuckle... Search lowes for 809412 and it should come up. You attach this at the bottom of the latch side... and half way up the hinge side, and then tighten to lift the outer edge of the door. Another possibility is that wood has swollen and you need to get out the belt sand or a planer and shave something down to stop it from hitting. Step one is figuring out WHERE its hanging up, and then focus your efforts in that area. Good luck!!
Hi Priscilla... I'm not sure I understand your question... In this video, the twist locks for the glass were still in place and functional. Without seeing your door, I'm not sure how to advise you on how to repair the frame or install new retainers... I'm sorry. Would you like put a video on your account and give us a link to watch it?
just had a Larson screen away door installed. wasn't cheap, but it leaks from the top. is caulking a customer responsibility upon installation completion. Cause the instructions do not call for caulk. $500+ door. not happy :(
I've never installed a storm door that required caulking on the door itself. I have, on occasion, needed to apply sealant between the storm door jam head bracket, and the brick molding, if the drip cap on the door installation itself was insufficient. If the storm door is leaking THROUGH the storm door, you need to contact Larson. Good luck! Hope you SUBSCRIBE to our channel for more home tips.
Our storm door frames attach to outside so makes a wide 4-5” opening between door and screen door.. looking for gap filler..when I look up threshold sweep,etc it’s not what I need
I'm having a hard time visualizing the problem you are experiencing... Maybe bottom Door Sweep ? we are in the process of developing our Home Field Advantage video coaching program for homeowners to help level the playing field for you against the crooked con-artists who call themselves contractors. Some details are posted now, but we should have the new website setup in the next week or two... www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro - once we go live, perhaps you'd like to purchase a zoom session and we can work on it with you together, so that you can get your questions answered and solve this once and for all.
Marsh, thanks so much! Glad you found this helpful. We hope you've subscribed for more great content! Let us know what questions we can answer for you about home repair and home improvement.
@@CopeBUILT Water heater > gas control switch > thermocouple connector > female socket for thermocouple has a perpendicular plug with 2 white wires > know what that is? My pilot won't stay on but the thermocouple tests good. I couldn't find good info, then I remembered you. Thanks, man, you care about quality.
I'm not familiar enough to give you guidance, but if I found this in a customer's house, I generally would start with a youtube search like this... th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=Gas+Water+heater+THermocouple+diagnostic It will be even more effective if you can enter the brand name... and possibly brand name AND model number. Sometimes those control valves are used by more than on manufacturer, so you might also try looking up the brand and model of the control system.
Thanks for the very informative video. The problem I am having is the main door is so air tight the Larson storm door with one closure will not close the door. Any recommendations? I plan to add another closure at the bottom but I have to order an off brand because I cant find almond/tan closure from Larson.
XrpIceMan - You are experiencing a VERY Common problem. Some doors have exchangeable full panel glass inserts and screen inserts which are swapped seasonally. We have found we need to adjust the closers with stronger pull when the glass is installed and less pull when the screens are installed. Getting two closers matched for tension can be challenging and requires a lot of trial and error. In your case, look at the bottom of the larson door. Some of them have an "adjustable" sweep. This is a U-Shaped trim piece on the bottom of the door with a weather strip. Adjust it UP and experiment with leaving a 1/2 inch gap at the bottom. This gap may be enough to allow "trapped" air to exit the opening so that the door can close properly. Let us know if this tip works for you. We hope you LIKE our video and subscribe to our channel for more great home improvement and contractor screening tips. #CopeBUILT
Great comment Wally... we are continually shocked at the incredibly low standards found in modern manufacturing. I don't know that I would agree that all mitered corners are bad... but its is important as a consumer to evaluate various brands and models and see which appears to give you the best construction practices for your dollar. For those willing to go the extra mile, we often will pre-emptively install a z-bar turnbuckle to help support the latch side of the door.
Thank you for this video! I've been using it for reference. One question: if the wind has ripped some of the wood out on the frame, how do you cut that piece out and separate it from the frame? Seems glued or something to the frame.
minor ripouts can be addressed with wood golf tees and wood glue. Major damage usually requires removing a section of the jamb with a vibe tool, rip a replacement on the table saw, glue and screw that in place, nail fill and paint. And then you can reattach the closer...
We successfully added a chain to a rollaway hideaway screen as you describe at our personal home... And it was simply a matter of going high enough with the fasteners to make sure you are above the rollaway screen mechanism. We went extra heavy duty and used a u-bolt with a full metal plate on the exterior of the door... We also preemptively added a Z-Bar turnbuckle the same day we installed it to help protect it from sagging over time. Thank you for your comment and your question. We hope you subscribe to our channel for more helpful information as you interview contractors for work on your home
@@CopeBUILT is it possible to show it in one of your videos... .. I understand but a visual would help... my door is metal and Im trying to figure out if Im over the screen roller. Thank you in advance... I did sub .... I wish your crew was in this DMV... I would pay you to fix this issue.
Here is a link to an unpublished video on the turnbuckle system we installed. photos.app.goo.gl/AvCws5kAVTEweCeT9 Sadly, I don't have any images of the safety chain bolted in above the rollaway screen, but this is the ubolt i used... hoop towards the interior... NUTS on the exterior... and ask the hardware employees if they have any "cap nuts" you can buy to fit it. www.lowes.com/pd/National-Hardware-N100-377-V2193-U-Bolts-in-Stainless-Steel/1002237284 Those look like this, but you need to confirm that the 1/4 x 20 thread size is correct for the UBolt you buy www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-Count-1-4-in-Nickel-Standard-SAE-Cap-Nuts/3035978 Here is a safety chain kit... they also sell a $12 version from Pella, but I'm not sure one is better than the other.... www.lowes.com/pd/WRIGHT-PRODUCTS-5-in-Steel-Screen-Door-and-Storm-Door-Chain-Stop/50102496
Thank you! We have an old wood storm door. The trim around the window/ screen seems to be plastic. It is coming apart in one area. What is the best way to reattach that? My partner used screws and now I have an ugly studded look going on in one area of my door. Please help me!
Can you apply woodputty over the screws? In direct response to all the questions we get like this on TH-cam, we are working on a new website at www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro which should be ready in the next week or two - once we go live, you'll be able to to purchase a zoom session and we can work on it with you together, so that you can get your questions answered and solve this once and for all.
I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to, but i did a search for "storm door panel clips" and found this video... th-cam.com/video/UT_9d_aluNk/w-d-xo.html You may also find the Larson Storm Door channel to be helpful. www.youtube.com/@LarsonStormDoors
YES! We preemptively add z-bar turnbuckles whenever a customer will allow it. If a new storm door is going in, we recommend a safety chain, AND a z-bar to prevent sagging. About 50% of our clients turn us down. I put one on the new storm door I added to my own house in 2005... and that "crappy aluminum storm door" is still holding up. It has other problems now, but sagging isn't one of them. By the same token, I have client who refused the z-bar, and I have put 2 or 3 storm doors in for them in the same time period. Place your bets, Pay your money, make your choices.
Hi, the top closer/spring came unpinned and the washer seems to be locked and I can't figure out how to extend the bar on that side to reinsert it and repin it. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Sadly... brute force. Put the pin, back in the bar, so that you have something to clamp onto. Grab your vice grips, and use them to pull the bar back out... and then hopefully, slide the "washer" which locks the bar in the extended position, back down to make contact with the gas cylinder again. Probably a two person operation... Good luck. Make sure you subscribe for more helpful videos from our team.
I have a storm door w/glass middle, very heavy door. Has upper shock & lower, Both have been replaced* Issue is when I open the door and go out the door swings back on me when I open. The shocks do work but their is a swing motion shock catches door & closes properly. How do I prevent door flying back on me upon opening immediately. Thanks guys.
Hi JHarris... Thank you for your question... sounds like, while the closers have been replaced, they may not be adjusted property... and generally speaking, they should be adjusted one-at-a-time, with the second closer disconnected, while working on the first... and then the first disconnected while working on the second. That way you can tune them both to exert roughly equal pressure. In my experience, once the units are closing at the same desired speed, and then combined and both are back in operation after independant adjustments, then I find that the overall door speed is even slower than one only controlled by one closer. When this occurs, once they are working together at the the same speed, I simply adjust both closers, 1/8 of a turn, in unison, increasing the close speed, until I achieve the desired result. This video from Larson Storm Doors will give you specific instructions on how to adjust the closing speed of a storm door the utilizes two of the gas cylinder shock-absorbers as you describe. th-cam.com/video/vqmcaryyq2Q/w-d-xo.html If you find our answer helpful, please like this video, and subscribe to our channel to help communicate to TH-cam that we are providing quality content on their platform, and so you'll learn about new videos we put out each week. Thanks so much!
when my door is locked in the open position with the closer, the bottom of the door on the hinge side pulls away from the frame about 1/2 inch, since the door is capped with aluminum should I just try putting a large wood screw in through the aluminum frame I know it won’t look great but better than removing the cap correct?
Sounds like a reasonable plan to me... Often times, when wood is water damaged, rather than replace it, some con-artists calling themselves contractors will just hide the damage by capping over it... and by the time their taillight warranty is expired (when the taillights leave the driveway) you start to experience problems like this and are left holding the bag when you can't find them, and failed to get a COI (certificate of insurance). YES... Try the long screw. If that works, GREAT! If it doesn't, you are no worse off than you were before because you still have to pull the storm door, and the capping in order to fix it. Stay tuned to www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro - once we go live with the new website in a week or two, you'll be able to purchase a zoom session and we can work on it with you together, so that you can get your questions answered and solve this once and for all.
Hi Jay, thanks for your question... No, we haven't recorded any videos on that particular step, but there should be instructions on the package... Silver www.lowes.com/pd/Pella-9-75-in-Steel-Screen-Door-and-Storm-Door-Chain-Stop/50374522 Black www.lowes.com/pd/LARSON-Black-Storm-Door-Wind-Chain/5001438807 Hope this helps. Have you LIKED this video with a Thumbs Up, and Subscribed? th-cam.com/users/CopeBUILT
Hey Steve, thanks for your feedback... glad to know you found our video helpful. I hope you'll subscribe to learn a wide variety of DIY home repair tips and concepts that will help you be better equipped to interview contractors for work on your Forever Home! Blessings!
What about doors with the roll down windows. Mine has a roll down screen window in the door but the lock won't hold the window open is there a way to fix it?
I have purchased new screens on a replacement roller system from the manufacturers and installed them in the past... NOTE... the directions they supplied were not clear... You can probably buy a new latch if the clip has broken off... but you have to determine if its the latch that broke... or the ledge which the latch clips on-to.
Larson handles are often sold separately ($50), and generally have a square metal bar going through the door as the "axle" and each handle connects the the square bar by slipping on the end, and is fastened in place with a hex drive set screw. Grab your allen keys, look for the hex screw head in the round part of the shaft handle and see if you can loosen it... push the handle further onto the square metal axle, and then tighten it again. You may have to repeat on the opposite handle as well. These handle kits sometimes come with a plastic or nylon shoulder washer... if that breaks and falls out, it will create slopp in the action of the handle. if this helps, please like our video, like this comment, and subscribe to our channel. thanks :-)
On a south facing door, you are absolutely correct... especially if you have a dark colored entry door... but if you have an awning like this, or a north facing door, it may be less of a concern.
FoxGun, we'd love to hear more about why you say that. Our recommendation has historically been, always spend at least $180 on your storm door. The $99 specials are made of MDF (glued sawdust) and don't hold up. But we've had good success when we've had to call their parts line for assistance with missing items for an install. We haven't had any issues with the $180 and up storm doors, including the one we installed on our personal residence. It has a roll away screen and has served us faithfully for 15 years. It's probably due to be replaced, but we'll likely milk it for another year or two. Did you have a negative experience with a $99 special? We'd love to know more about why you shy away from Larson.
Drew was very helpful giving me ideas to finish installing my storm door. I liked this video and his knowledge enough to call and ask him. And he called me back. And I live in Florida. Thank you Drew!
Robert - it was great speaking with you. I'm glad you found our video and our conversation helpful! Good luck with your project. Let us know how it turns out!
Great out of the box solution-Please keep them coming!
Thank you. Glad you like it. Hope you found it helpful!
We appreciate your comment! I'd like to invite you to subscribe to our channel for more great home improvement tips to help you know what questions you should ask as you screen various contractors for work on your home.
Love such an innovative solution to this situation! That’s truly finding a workable solution that literally looks amazing! So we’re going on 10 years strong with our Larson storm doors. One was to reduce UV and the other was for security. I know…why not get the same type for both entrances? I gave it a lot of thought when we moved to this old house…the door most likely to be kicked in by burglars is the side entry where neighbors may not have a clear view. So it had the security storm door. Then we ended up having 4 extra large dogs…and though we don’t have a burglar problem…we do have 4 extra large dogs charging at the security storm door every time we go outside. That door was a God send in that they’ve all crashed into it thousands of times and it held! Both doors cost us a lot, but worth EVERY expensive penny we put into them. That said, we’re driven nuts by Larson storm door sweep replacements. It’s hell to install. And then the seal prevents the security storm door from ever closing on it’s own despite two installed auto closures set so strong it kills my ankles slamming into me…and still not latch close. I have to ALWAYS manually close it. Now I’m reading to leave a 1/2 inch gap in the next to impossible sweep. We got these little blue/grey lizards that already venture in when that door doesn’t close all the way. If we leave a 1/2 inch gap, that’s like an invitation for them to come in die somewhere in our home. Is there a real solution to the horrid installation AND not leaving the 1/2 inch gap???
Lan Dai Hilton... thanks for you detailed comment!! Great to hear that the doors are holding up. We have enjoyed long term larson success on our own home as well.
Sadly, no, i have not found a solution to make the door close, other than to leave a gap at the bottom to allow the air to escape.
SOMETIMES... and i do me some of the time... on occasion... i have been able to adjust the location of the closer mount in the jamb... moving it FURTHER from the storm door hinge, and closer to the interior of the home.... OR.... moving the door mount 1 inch further from the hinge side, and closer to the latch side on the storm door slab. This adds extra tension... and then i can add more cushion with the adjustment screw.
The second approach is the "least invasive" in that you have two screws securing the mount to the door slab. remove both screws. move the mount further from the hinge side, and put it back in with just that 1 screw... adjust the close speed cushion, and test. If you don't like it, you can put it back, and you haven't drilled any extra holes anywhere.
A similar approach can be tried on the jamb mount, but you may have to "hold it" against the jamb as 2 screws on the outdoor side of things won't hold against the tension from the pressure without the 2 inboard screws.
Give it a whirl and comment back letting us know how you make out.
If you haven't subscribed, we'd like to invite you to do that now for more great weekly content! Thanks again for your question.
To your knowledge is the a closer that will allow for greater than 90 degrees of swing when opening? The 90 degree ones don’t ever really open at 90 degrees they a suck
That’s a great question - I haven’t personally seen one that opens beyond 90 degrees, but I did a quick search for "commercial style storm door closer" and found this link to Amazon... Claims it allows it to open to 180°...
Screen and Storm Door Rotary Hydraulic Closer | MPOWR Hydraulic POWR-Closer 800 a.co/d/3C30h6i
The Larson Platinum storm door now has an integrated closer, But I don't believe you can get past 90° with those.
Hope this helps
Attention to detail is fantastic, the fact you thought about the direction of the way the screw head faces so dirt doesn't accumulate 👏
Learned that from an old electrician friend of mine... it's the little things that stick with you.
Thanks for your comment!
Installed a Larson but also had to rebuild deteriorated Masonry and add new brick mold. Nice and plumb, but probably door/trim (aluminum) spacing tolerances too tight because when it rains, wood swells and door contacts the trim along the handle-side. Any solutions? Can shave aluminum and repaint od remove trim, shave wood and reinstall. A lot of work, though.
Great question. I have a lot more tools for massaging and adjusting wood... And less tools for doing the same things to aluminum... So my inclination is to remove the storm door and modify the wood or pvc brick molding that it mounts to, And then reinstall the storm door... Lot less things for me to screw up that way... And very little chance of me having to go buy a new $350 storm door.
But if you have the experience and expertise to modify the aluminum, go for it
your good Drew....I'm looking for a vid that can help with a storm door that is very hard to OPEN...Its at my buddies house and I think it has been getting worse and worse as time has went by until last time I was over there it took him almost 10 minutes for him to get it to release and open from the outside where we were trying to get in! Its a heavy duty door all he can do is to turn the door handle and pull pull pull- sort of like trying to shock it so that it releases, but we don't really know what is holding it closed, getting it stuck.Can you help? It even does the same thing from the inside...He's one of those type people that ALWAYS locks his storm door when he stays in or leaves the house. I'm supposed to fix it for him..I'm pretty good with tools and improvising to figure out a fix for things, but doors and turning handles I really don't know very much about- Id have to watch alot of videos on these things- because I know I have alot to learn. Even if you just suggest where I might want to concentrate my attention, it will be beneficial to me. Thank you for your response ahead of time.
Hey Dartell... thanks for your comment... if you haven't subscribed to our channel yet, please do so, as we are publishing helpful content 2 to 3 times a week and we don't want you to miss an episode.
If I had to guess... the door is dragging... over time it has sagged and the latch side is resting hard on the bottom threshold and you need to "LIFT" the door to make it open (or pull really hard).
You could use a turnbuckle... Search lowes for 809412 and it should come up. You attach this at the bottom of the latch side... and half way up the hinge side, and then tighten to lift the outer edge of the door.
Another possibility is that wood has swollen and you need to get out the belt sand or a planer and shave something down to stop it from hitting. Step one is figuring out WHERE its hanging up, and then focus your efforts in that area. Good luck!!
Good. To the point You should open other store company up in New York. Much success to you. ..!
Thank you for the feedback Joan. We're glad you enjoyed this!
What do you use too put together the glass back to the frame that is coming apart
Hi Priscilla... I'm not sure I understand your question...
In this video, the twist locks for the glass were still in place and functional. Without seeing your door, I'm not sure how to advise you on how to repair the frame or install new retainers...
I'm sorry. Would you like put a video on your account and give us a link to watch it?
just had a Larson screen away door installed. wasn't cheap, but it leaks from the top. is caulking a customer responsibility upon installation completion. Cause the instructions do not call for caulk. $500+ door. not happy :(
I've never installed a storm door that required caulking on the door itself. I have, on occasion, needed to apply sealant between the storm door jam head bracket, and the brick molding, if the drip cap on the door installation itself was insufficient. If the storm door is leaking THROUGH the storm door, you need to contact Larson. Good luck!
Hope you SUBSCRIBE to our channel for more home tips.
Our storm door frames attach to outside so makes a wide 4-5” opening between door and screen door.. looking for gap filler..when I look up threshold sweep,etc it’s not what I need
I'm having a hard time visualizing the problem you are experiencing... Maybe bottom Door Sweep ?
we are in the process of developing our Home Field Advantage video coaching program for homeowners to help level the playing field for you against the crooked con-artists who call themselves contractors. Some details are posted now, but we should have the new website setup in the next week or two... www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro - once we go live, perhaps you'd like to purchase a zoom session and we can work on it with you together, so that you can get your questions answered and solve this once and for all.
Knowledgable and well spoken
Good show, mate
Marsh, thanks so much! Glad you found this helpful. We hope you've subscribed for more great content! Let us know what questions we can answer for you about home repair and home improvement.
@@CopeBUILT Water heater > gas control switch > thermocouple connector > female socket for thermocouple has a perpendicular plug with 2 white wires > know what that is?
My pilot won't stay on but the thermocouple tests good.
I couldn't find good info,
then I remembered you.
Thanks, man, you care about quality.
I'm not familiar enough to give you guidance, but if I found this in a customer's house, I generally would start with a youtube search like this...
th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=Gas+Water+heater+THermocouple+diagnostic
It will be even more effective if you can enter the brand name... and possibly brand name AND model number.
Sometimes those control valves are used by more than on manufacturer, so you might also try looking up the brand and model of the control system.
Thanks for the very informative video. The problem I am having is the main door is so air tight the Larson storm door with one closure will not close the door. Any recommendations? I plan to add another closure at the bottom but I have to order an off brand because I cant find almond/tan closure from Larson.
XrpIceMan - You are experiencing a VERY Common problem. Some doors have exchangeable full panel glass inserts and screen inserts which are swapped seasonally. We have found we need to adjust the closers with stronger pull when the glass is installed and less pull when the screens are installed. Getting two closers matched for tension can be challenging and requires a lot of trial and error.
In your case, look at the bottom of the larson door. Some of them have an "adjustable" sweep. This is a U-Shaped trim piece on the bottom of the door with a weather strip. Adjust it UP and experiment with leaving a 1/2 inch gap at the bottom. This gap may be enough to allow "trapped" air to exit the opening so that the door can close properly.
Let us know if this tip works for you. We hope you LIKE our video and subscribe to our channel for more great home improvement and contractor screening tips. #CopeBUILT
Do not buy storm doors with corners at 45 degree angles, they will become wobbly in less than two years. Buy only doors with 90 degree angles.
Great comment Wally... we are continually shocked at the incredibly low standards found in modern manufacturing. I don't know that I would agree that all mitered corners are bad... but its is important as a consumer to evaluate various brands and models and see which appears to give you the best construction practices for your dollar. For those willing to go the extra mile, we often will pre-emptively install a z-bar turnbuckle to help support the latch side of the door.
Thank you for this video! I've been using it for reference. One question: if the wind has ripped some of the wood out on the frame, how do you cut that piece out and separate it from the frame? Seems glued or something to the frame.
minor ripouts can be addressed with wood golf tees and wood glue. Major damage usually requires removing a section of the jamb with a vibe tool, rip a replacement on the table saw, glue and screw that in place, nail fill and paint. And then you can reattach the closer...
How about storm doors that slide from glass or screen... how do you add a chain and the door is metal. Will the screws damage the hide away screen.
We successfully added a chain to a rollaway hideaway screen as you describe at our personal home... And it was simply a matter of going high enough with the fasteners to make sure you are above the rollaway screen mechanism. We went extra heavy duty and used a u-bolt with a full metal plate on the exterior of the door... We also preemptively added a Z-Bar turnbuckle the same day we installed it to help protect it from sagging over time.
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@@CopeBUILT thanks... I will sub
@@CopeBUILT is it possible to show it in one of your videos... ..
I understand but a visual would help... my door is metal and Im trying to figure out if Im over the screen roller. Thank you in advance... I did sub .... I wish your crew was in this DMV... I would pay you to fix this issue.
Here is a link to an unpublished video on the turnbuckle system we installed. photos.app.goo.gl/AvCws5kAVTEweCeT9
Sadly, I don't have any images of the safety chain bolted in above the rollaway screen, but this is the ubolt i used... hoop towards the interior... NUTS on the exterior... and ask the hardware employees if they have any "cap nuts" you can buy to fit it. www.lowes.com/pd/National-Hardware-N100-377-V2193-U-Bolts-in-Stainless-Steel/1002237284
Those look like this, but you need to confirm that the 1/4 x 20 thread size is correct for the UBolt you buy
www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-Count-1-4-in-Nickel-Standard-SAE-Cap-Nuts/3035978
Here is a safety chain kit... they also sell a $12 version from Pella, but I'm not sure one is better than the other....
www.lowes.com/pd/WRIGHT-PRODUCTS-5-in-Steel-Screen-Door-and-Storm-Door-Chain-Stop/50102496
Thank you! We have an old wood storm door. The trim around the window/ screen seems to be plastic. It is coming apart in one area. What is the best way to reattach that? My partner used screws and now I have an ugly studded look going on in one area of my door. Please help me!
Can you apply woodputty over the screws?
In direct response to all the questions we get like this on TH-cam, we are working on a new website at www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro which should be ready in the next week or two - once we go live, you'll be able to to purchase a zoom session and we can work on it with you together, so that you can get your questions answered and solve this once and for all.
Where can I find a instructional video on how to install storm door panel clips?
I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to, but i did a search for "storm door panel clips" and found this video... th-cam.com/video/UT_9d_aluNk/w-d-xo.html
You may also find the Larson Storm Door channel to be helpful.
www.youtube.com/@LarsonStormDoors
Great for fancy storm doors but what about aluminum crappy ones most people have? Turnbuckle?
YES! We preemptively add z-bar turnbuckles whenever a customer will allow it. If a new storm door is going in, we recommend a safety chain, AND a z-bar to prevent sagging. About 50% of our clients turn us down.
I put one on the new storm door I added to my own house in 2005... and that "crappy aluminum storm door" is still holding up. It has other problems now, but sagging isn't one of them.
By the same token, I have client who refused the z-bar, and I have put 2 or 3 storm doors in for them in the same time period.
Place your bets, Pay your money, make your choices.
Hi, the top closer/spring came unpinned and the washer seems to be locked and I can't figure out how to extend the bar on that side to reinsert it and repin it. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Sadly... brute force. Put the pin, back in the bar, so that you have something to clamp onto. Grab your vice grips, and use them to pull the bar back out... and then hopefully, slide the "washer" which locks the bar in the extended position, back down to make contact with the gas cylinder again. Probably a two person operation... Good luck. Make sure you subscribe for more helpful videos from our team.
I have a storm door w/glass middle, very heavy door.
Has upper shock & lower,
Both have been replaced*
Issue is when I open the door and go out the door swings back on me when I open.
The shocks do work but their is a swing motion shock catches door & closes properly.
How do I prevent door flying back on me upon opening immediately. Thanks guys.
Hi JHarris... Thank you for your question... sounds like, while the closers have been replaced, they may not be adjusted property... and generally speaking, they should be adjusted one-at-a-time, with the second closer disconnected, while working on the first... and then the first disconnected while working on the second. That way you can tune them both to exert roughly equal pressure.
In my experience, once the units are closing at the same desired speed, and then combined and both are back in operation after independant adjustments, then I find that the overall door speed is even slower than one only controlled by one closer. When this occurs, once they are working together at the the same speed, I simply adjust both closers, 1/8 of a turn, in unison, increasing the close speed, until I achieve the desired result.
This video from Larson Storm Doors will give you specific instructions on how to adjust the closing speed of a storm door the utilizes two of the gas cylinder shock-absorbers as you describe. th-cam.com/video/vqmcaryyq2Q/w-d-xo.html
If you find our answer helpful, please like this video, and subscribe to our channel to help communicate to TH-cam that we are providing quality content on their platform, and so you'll learn about new videos we put out each week. Thanks so much!
when my door is locked in the open position with the closer, the bottom of the door on the hinge side pulls away from the frame about 1/2 inch, since the door is capped with aluminum should I just try putting a large wood screw in through the aluminum frame I know it won’t look great but better than removing the cap correct?
Sounds like a reasonable plan to me... Often times, when wood is water damaged, rather than replace it, some con-artists calling themselves contractors will just hide the damage by capping over it... and by the time their taillight warranty is expired (when the taillights leave the driveway) you start to experience problems like this and are left holding the bag when you can't find them, and failed to get a COI (certificate of insurance).
YES... Try the long screw. If that works, GREAT! If it doesn't, you are no worse off than you were before because you still have to pull the storm door, and the capping in order to fix it.
Stay tuned to www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro - once we go live with the new website in a week or two, you'll be able to purchase a zoom session and we can work on it with you together, so that you can get your questions answered and solve this once and for all.
Any videos on How to install the chains
Hi Jay, thanks for your question... No, we haven't recorded any videos on that particular step, but there should be instructions on the package...
Silver
www.lowes.com/pd/Pella-9-75-in-Steel-Screen-Door-and-Storm-Door-Chain-Stop/50374522
Black
www.lowes.com/pd/LARSON-Black-Storm-Door-Wind-Chain/5001438807
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th-cam.com/users/CopeBUILT
Great description, good stuff!
Hey Steve, thanks for your feedback... glad to know you found our video helpful. I hope you'll subscribe to learn a wide variety of DIY home repair tips and concepts that will help you be better equipped to interview contractors for work on your Forever Home! Blessings!
great video!
Thanks. Glad you found it helpful
Subscribe for more. 😀
Where can I get one of them spring loaded catch ?
Ace hardware... TrueValue Hardware... Lowes... Home Depot...
What about doors with the roll down windows. Mine has a roll down screen window in the door but the lock won't hold the window open is there a way to fix it?
I have purchased new screens on a replacement roller system from the manufacturers and installed them in the past... NOTE... the directions they supplied were not clear...
You can probably buy a new latch if the clip has broken off... but you have to determine if its the latch that broke... or the ledge which the latch clips on-to.
I got one for you.... How do you fix a sagging storm door handle without replacing the handle? Its a Larson. Thanks
Larson handles are often sold separately ($50), and generally have a square metal bar going through the door as the "axle" and each handle connects the the square bar by slipping on the end, and is fastened in place with a hex drive set screw. Grab your allen keys, look for the hex screw head in the round part of the shaft handle and see if you can loosen it... push the handle further onto the square metal axle, and then tighten it again. You may have to repeat on the opposite handle as well.
These handle kits sometimes come with a plastic or nylon shoulder washer... if that breaks and falls out, it will create slopp in the action of the handle.
if this helps, please like our video, like this comment, and subscribe to our channel. thanks :-)
@@CopeBUILT thanks for the detailed response. I'll look into it promptly. Liked and subbed. 👍🏼
Did you have to adjust the hinges
not on this door, but sometimes, that is an issue with these older wooden style storm doors.
Easy to follow!
Thank you Renee... we're glad you found this helpful!!
very informative
Glad to hear it :-)
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Storm door trap in to much heat bad idea.
On a south facing door, you are absolutely correct... especially if you have a dark colored entry door... but if you have an awning like this, or a north facing door, it may be less of a concern.
Answer
Don't buy Larson junk
FoxGun, we'd love to hear more about why you say that. Our recommendation has historically been, always spend at least $180 on your storm door. The $99 specials are made of MDF (glued sawdust) and don't hold up. But we've had good success when we've had to call their parts line for assistance with missing items for an install. We haven't had any issues with the $180 and up storm doors, including the one we installed on our personal residence. It has a roll away screen and has served us faithfully for 15 years. It's probably due to be replaced, but we'll likely milk it for another year or two. Did you have a negative experience with a $99 special? We'd love to know more about why you shy away from Larson.
My Larson suddenly sticks shut!!! How do I fix that??