For your tests you obviously have to just hone/deburr on one side of the blade to allow for the lacquers. In reality, would you not be alternating the sides of the knife, and thus leaving a longer time between passes on the wheel? Longer time between passes would allow more heat to conduct away from the blade tip, and perhaps a reduction in temperature.
These and other methods can of course be applied to reduce the heating. The task of this research is to reveal the worst offenders. We can then think what can bring the heating down in them, and what techniques to use. Many can be fixed with cooling techniques, but some can not, like stone grinders or solid felt wheel at high RPM. The main thing is to know your enemy, to stop sharpening dry and high. A good example of how a thinking man recognises the heating and applies techniques to control it: th-cam.com/video/khG7WCYoqrQ/w-d-xo.html
For 40+ years I dealt with edge sharpening on a buffer. My solution was to use a 1750 rpm buffer. A 6 inch wheel was better than a 8 inch or 10 inch wheel and a 1/4 inch thick sewn cotton wheel was better than a thicker wheel. The 6 x 1/4 buffing wheel did not burn the edge and allowed a flexibility that could spread out over the edge for a razor sharp edge in a very short time.
Again very informative. As a slight diversion, just how good are buffing wheels for deburring as compared to paper wheels? Do they deroot the burr as does a rock hard felt wheel?
I haven't studied them myself. SHARPCO has a detailed video, sharpness near 100 BESS tells us it may be deburred cleanly. If you look in the Community tab of my channel, I recently posted a Lon Humphrey's video, he deburrs using the buffing wheel - I bought 2 knives from him, good arm-shaving sharpness and near cleanly deburred. A quick method, and a regular customer will be happy, methinks. But does not work for "supersteels".
Hi Vadim. Out of curiosity, how do you usually sharpen knives for non commercial users? I bought your 5th edition book, but it seems like you have done some changes after that. I'm saving up buing CBN wheels from you, but until then i only have the tormek wheel and the paperwheels, so right now i sharpen knives at the tormek, and then polish using 10 and 2.5 micron diamonds, and then finishing on a hanging leather strop (but not from a kangaroo) Is this viable, or should i add some steps?
Right sharpening routine is the routine that works for your knives. This sharpening procedure on our website describes how we sharpen on stone wheels knifegrinders.com.au/06Procedures.htm Since all sharpening goes edge-leading (except for the finishing), wire edge is not forming. As to the latest revision of the book please email.
For your tests you obviously have to just hone/deburr on one side of the blade to allow for the lacquers. In reality, would you not be alternating the sides of the knife, and thus leaving a longer time between passes on the wheel? Longer time between passes would allow more heat to conduct away from the blade tip, and perhaps a reduction in temperature.
These and other methods can of course be applied to reduce the heating. The task of this research is to reveal the worst offenders. We can then think what can bring the heating down in them, and what techniques to use. Many can be fixed with cooling techniques, but some can not, like stone grinders or solid felt wheel at high RPM.
The main thing is to know your enemy, to stop sharpening dry and high.
A good example of how a thinking man recognises the heating and applies techniques to control it: th-cam.com/video/khG7WCYoqrQ/w-d-xo.html
Nicely done and illustrated. The best part: "dire forebodings"...a solid vocabulary.
For 40+ years I dealt with edge sharpening on a buffer. My solution was to use a 1750 rpm buffer. A 6 inch wheel was better than a 8 inch or 10 inch wheel and a 1/4 inch thick sewn cotton wheel was better than a thicker wheel. The 6 x 1/4 buffing wheel did not burn the edge and allowed a flexibility that could spread out over the edge for a razor sharp edge in a very short time.
Out of curiosity what rpm are we talking about in full speed vs half 3500 vs 1750?
Loose cloth. sewed cloth, felt, paper, MDF... how many choices are there?
How long would it take for a S30V edge to overheat on a buffing wheel? Can that even happen or does the wheel start to burn first?
Again very informative. As a slight diversion, just how good are buffing wheels for deburring as compared to paper wheels?
Do they deroot the burr as does a rock hard felt wheel?
I haven't studied them myself. SHARPCO has a detailed video, sharpness near 100 BESS tells us it may be deburred cleanly.
If you look in the Community tab of my channel, I recently posted a Lon Humphrey's video, he deburrs using the buffing wheel - I bought 2 knives from him, good arm-shaving sharpness and near cleanly deburred.
A quick method, and a regular customer will be happy, methinks. But does not work for "supersteels".
Hi Vadim. Out of curiosity, how do you usually sharpen knives for non commercial users? I bought your 5th edition book, but it seems like you have done some changes after that. I'm saving up buing CBN wheels from you, but until then i only have the tormek wheel and the paperwheels, so right now i sharpen knives at the tormek, and then polish using 10 and 2.5 micron diamonds, and then finishing on a hanging leather strop (but not from a kangaroo) Is this viable, or should i add some steps?
Right sharpening routine is the routine that works for your knives. This sharpening procedure on our website describes how we sharpen on stone wheels knifegrinders.com.au/06Procedures.htm Since all sharpening goes edge-leading (except for the finishing), wire edge is not forming.
As to the latest revision of the book please email.
Hi
Does anyone know the name of the thermal paint used on the knife? Tried a quick Google search with no luck, cheers in advance 👍
Tempil Tempilaq is one product which is available. I do not know which product he used in this video, however; maybe Tempilaq, maybe something else.