Hi Mike, brilliant advice as always. Small point, my guru Norman white, told me, you should stand on the rear brake as you tighten the LHS stub axel to centre things kind regards. (although you would need a safety net up on the table! Haha)
Thanks a lot Tony. Yes, that's absolutely right! I actually forgot to do that and it really does make a difference. Many thanks for the reminder! Best wishes, Mike
Mike, these are spectacular and invaluable.I can not believe that I've had a Commando for 30 years and I feel like I'm watching "How to own a Norton" for the first time. Everything, from your maintenance work, your garage, the little graphic notes, your calm manner and the condition of tools, shop and bike are first rate! I'm putting this note on the first of the series but they are all fantastic! I'll keep working through all of your stuff. Just to see how someone else does the normal jobs is great. The little rag tucked under the oil tank, the gearbox funnel with a notch out for the bolt!, everything. Hoping to find something on wet sumping (I have to drain the sump if it sits for more than a week). I love the "I run the oil a little low" comment - of course, otherwise like all of them, it dumps oily foam out the breather! Quick question too, I changed my chain recently too (very uneven tension measured across different parts) and I'm interested in your opinion on changing sprockets. Obviously a bigger deal on a Norton than something new, but are you concerned at all about replacing the chain and neither sprocket? Lots of internet noise about that being a concern (but not Norton specific). Anyway, this is incredibly valuable work! I can't thank you enough for taking the time to video and edit all of this. Its a gift to all classic bike owners. I think I'm going to have to get myself a lift and start doing the kind of regular, thorough inspections you share. Thanks again!
Thank you so much for your fantastic comment. That was so enjoyable to read. I'm glad you like the videos. I get a tremendous amount of pleasure from working on the bikes and doing the videos. I haven't worried too much about the sprockets to be honest. I tend to just leave my bikes in stock and standard configurations, unless something really needs attention or is a wise and/or safe upgrade. I really appreciate some of the more custom bikes, but I am perfectly happy with the standard set up. I think I like the idea very much of riding a bike just how it would have ridden and felt back in the day. Best wishes, Mike
Great video, I appreciate the detail. Excellent job cleaning/detailing, and you are very correct about one thing, there is no better way to thoroughly inspect a bike that by performing a serious, nut and bolt level cleaning. It's the first thing I do on new bikes. Thanks for the video, looking forward to part 2.
Brings back old memories... I bought one that looked just like that in 1978. The first ride on it was a lot of fun and a little scary. I had never ridden a bike with the brake and shifter reversed.
Hi Mike, many thanks for your note. I appreciate it and also thank you for subscribing! Great to hear about your Hi Rider and all the best with your new bike. Cheers, Mike
The rear brake inspection gromets are on all Mk 2s and 2As from about end Q1 1974 onward. I believe a new regulation in the USA introduced in early 1974 required them. Certainly my Mk2 built in August 1974 has them. This does mean the chainguard is also a little different. On another matter. The standard rear brake is indeed a bit hopeless but RGM now sell high friction shoes which make a huge difference. You will probably need to arc them in a lath to fit however. Thanks for your videos. Nice to see a presentation given in a more mature and less hyper drama fashion.
Hi Uli. I hope all is well. Yes the adjusters are a good start to fine-tuning the alignment of the rear wheel. I’ve got a bit more work to do on the wheel. Best wishes, Mike
Love your vids and am an avid Canadian follower !! As the new owner of a 1974 850 Commando I would love you to do a basic Maintenance Vid of fluid changes ect. Yes, I have owners service manuals, but there is nothing like watching an expert with all the tricks to help alleviate the nervousness of getting something wrong.
Hi Martin, thank you very much for your nice note. I really appreciate it. The next episode in this TLC mini-series covers the oil changes. It will probably be a couple of weeks before it airs as I’ve got another video in the queue for next Sunday. Good luck with your Commando! They are wonderful bikes!
Nice video as usual. I like the way your axle adjuster nuts are place, mine are on opposite sides of the swingarm lug and forward one difficult to turn. This is how the book shows it but your setup looks better. BTW my '74 850 MKII also has the two shoe inspection holes on the drum.
Thanks very much Nick. Yes the adjusters are a good start to the wheel alignment. I’ve still got to do some fine-tuning with the wheel and might try and cover it in an upcoming video. But generally I measure from the dead center of the axle on both sides to the center of the isolastics stud. Hope all is well, best wishes, Mike
Don’t know if you care or not but I have found that Autosol Metal Polish works better than Simichrome polish. I’ve been polishing my 1973 850 Commando since 1973 when I bought it and Autosol saves me time and effort. Makes my fingers happier.
Hi Mike, I have the same tyres on my 500 Daytona I have just purchased, and I was amazed how well they handle in the Twisties, in fact when the Dunlop’s K82 have worn out on my Honda CB 400 Four, I will consider fitting Avon roadrider’s on it, even though I liked the classic period look of the Dunlop’s, in fact the next time I’m out for a ride, I will take both bikes out one after the other on the same route, to see if I notice any difference, but it might just be that I’ve not ridden the 400 for 4 weeks now, but anyway the Avon roadrider certainly do work very well on the Daytona, I enjoyed watching you work on the commando, like me your very meticulous, but when we are on two wheels it’s safe first, and it’s amazing how faults can be discovered when cleaning a bike. Say safe cheers Martin ⚙️🔩🔧🇬🇧👍
Hey Mike! Glad to see there real wheel was a pain for you as well.. Had a mate come over and run my Interstate yesterday while my leg heals.. Of course from the sitting now the carbs need a good going through...Still she ran well enough and I can not wait to put on the new head steady and new fork cartridges' as they should really help with the handling and the bumpy roads etc...My bikes felt a bit vague in the tight fast stuff. My only complaint on this video is your bike is just to clean..It kills me when I look at my bike to see all the gleam your bike has...
She even looks fast with the rear wheel out Mike. Hey Mike, do you look 👀 under the hood to check the engine oil in your car, 😂 I’m getting tyred, ooops, tired 🥱 now, it’s quite late ⏰ here, around 23:45 . lol niiiiiiiiiiice video man. 😎👍👍👍🇬🇧
Ha ha! We have been here so long now that I sometimes forget which is the right spelling 😀😀 Some of the British words seem so funny now, like bonnet instead of hood 😉Hope all is well. Cheers, Mike
Hi Ray, I would love to work with you on your BSA A10! They are a wonderful bike. My friend Jeff is working on one at the moment and I’m hoping to go and visit him. Best wishes
Nice work Mike! I have watched a lot of your videos and I appreciate all of them. I have a 71 Commando and your videos have helped me out greatly thank you. I did however when doing my brakes in the rear took the drum to a friend of mine and a machine shop they indicated the drum in a lathe and then just did a light skim on it I was wondering if you did that to yours? I believe it's always good to have a new surface on new brake shoes.
Hi Mark. Thanks a lot for your note. Yes, skimming the drum is definitely the best way to go. Unfortunately the place that I went to couldn’t do it. Best wishes, Mike
Thanks a lot for the reminder, Martin. I'm still working on part #2. I took it down temporarily as I made a mistake and didn't want folks to make the same mistake. I hope to edit it again and release soon. Best wishes, Mike
One tip for better brake centralizing is to apply the brake by holding the pedal down firmly (I use a rubber hammer handle jammed between pedal abd foot peg) then tighten up the rear axle following wheel aligning. A tip to getting wheel aligned is to measure center of axle bolt or nut to the rear isolastic pivot bolt center, either side, then use wheel axle adjusters until measurement is same both sides.
Bike is looking spot on Mike, safety first every time .. 👍 I think like most mechanical things you always seem to have one or two nuts or bolts that continue to just 'ease off' & require a nip up from time to time 😂 atvb t ..
Thanks very much Terry. Yes, that was an enjoyable project. Got a couple more videos still to come in this little mini series. Hope you are doing OK. Best wishes, Mike
Dennis would proud of your polishing 👍 Do you not oil your chain before fitting or is it easier and less messy 🤔 Have great week Mike, thanks for sharing ☕️🫖😎
Many thanks David. Also for the tip on oilingthe chain. Dennis would probably have had me go back over the bike a couple more times 😉 Best wishes, Mike
The 'brown coating' is likely cosmoline. A rust preventative. Most brake shoe frames/bodies(?) are steel,and even though the Norton's are aluminum,applying this product,is probably standard procedure, for the type of shop that did the work. fwiw
Great video!! Very informing. Can you please tell me what handlebars you have? Are they the European ones as seen on the Andover website? Part # 06.5748?
Thanks a lot Mick. I appreciate it. I don't think they are the same as 06-5748, which I believe are the slightly higher bars for the 1975 MK3 Commando. I believe these were called the “euro“ bars. I’m sorry but I can’t remember where I got them from. I think they might be more like 06.0784, which according to Andover are the handlebars for the Norton Commando Home Market 1968- 1970 nvt-motorcycles.com/files/63f/No.%2029%20HANDLEBARS%20including%20dimensions.pdf I thought I got mine from CNW (Colorado Norton Works), but I looked at the website and they are over $100, so I am sure i didn’t spend that much! I seem to remember that they were about $30-$50. I think I may have got them from OIdBritts or Commando Specialties. Here’s the CNW website in case you want to go for the top of the line bars. coloradonortonworks.net/handlebars-european-clubman-style.html Edit: A viewer called Chase Stobbe (thanks Chase) also replied that a company called MAP Cycle has that pattern of bars at around $60.
Thank you very much for your note. I really appreciate it. Yes, that was me getting concerned in the last clip of the video. I completely agree. I’m going to take another look at the wheel and tire. Yes, they fitted a ton of weights. There were originally some of the cone shaped lead weights on the spokes, but they removed them and replaced them with 2 rows of 5 ounce shiny weights. The reason for the weights is that the rim has a rim lock on the opposite side. I’m actually thinking about removing the rim lock as I don’t think it needs it with the new modern Avon tires. I appreciate you mentioning this. Best wishes, Mike
@@TheMightyGarage You might also consider using bead balancing. I run a brand "Counteract Balancing" in my two bikes and never need ugly wheel weights. I use the "Ready Balance" tubes from them. counteractbalancing.com/products/ready-balance/
@@TornadoCAN99thanks for the tip. I am going to be doing 4 tires here soon so as soon as the tires I want are available again this looks like a good option... anyone know of a video demonstration / review of these tubes?
If you could mention the wrench size please.. as I am learning to care for brit bikes . Harley and Honda's . Hearing wrench size would speed thing's up ..
Hi Bill, I run the Avon Roadriders 100/19-19 on both the front and rear on my Commandos. I understand that they are pretty hard to come by right now, due to the factory closing down in England, so you might need to consider other brands such as Heidenau, Dunlop & Michelin. Good luck with your new bike! They are great. Best wishes.
Thanks a lot for your note. Yes I’ve heard from a lot of friends that the Avons don’t last too long. The new roadriders are very good in my opinion. I have them on a lot of my bikes but to be honest I don’t cover a lot of miles and so they are great. Best wishes
@@TheMightyGarage Grip means more to me than milage - especially in the rain. I am using Avon Storm Ultra 3D XM 's on the rear of my Harleys and get about 5000 miles but both bikes are highly modified and make over 100bhp. I have a Roadrider on the Sportster and a Cobra on the Dyna, with 19 inch rims you do not have much choice for your Norton.
@@thakery5720 there’s not much choice. It’s generally either Dunlop or Avon. There are a couple of other brands but most of the guys go with the above two. Cheers
@@mickbrown8249 They were great on my Commando - but with 19 inch rims as standard, the only tyre you could fit was a 4.10 x 19 and it wore out super quick because of the tiny contact patch and the large torque of the bike's engine.
Thanks Russ, yes I totally agree! I’m not sure if I will keep them. They actually removed the original cone lead cone weights from the spokes and added 2 rows of new 5 ounce weights to compensate for the rim lock on the other side of the rim. I’m actually thinking about removing the rim lock altogether so that I can remove at least some of the horrible rows of shiny counterweights! Thanks, Mike
Thanks again Russ for pointing the tyre/tire out! It was definitely not seated correctly and I wasn't happy with all the bedazzled weights on the rim. I took the wheel off this morning and took it over to my friend Geoff's place. We removed the tire and the rim lock wasn't engaged with the tire, therefore pushing it up off the rim. We also removed those weights and re-balanced the wheel. We only had to place a couple of much nicer cone weights on the spokes. It's miles better now and I'm much happier with it. Thanks again!
Hi Mike, brilliant advice as always. Small point, my guru Norman white, told me, you should stand on the rear brake as you tighten the LHS stub axel to centre things kind regards. (although you would need a safety net up on the table! Haha)
Thanks a lot Tony. Yes, that's absolutely right! I actually forgot to do that and it really does make a difference. Many thanks for the reminder! Best wishes, Mike
Mike, these are spectacular and invaluable.I can not believe that I've had a Commando for 30 years and I feel like I'm watching "How to own a Norton" for the first time. Everything, from your maintenance work, your garage, the little graphic notes, your calm manner and the condition of tools, shop and bike are first rate! I'm putting this note on the first of the series but they are all fantastic! I'll keep working through all of your stuff. Just to see how someone else does the normal jobs is great. The little rag tucked under the oil tank, the gearbox funnel with a notch out for the bolt!, everything. Hoping to find something on wet sumping (I have to drain the sump if it sits for more than a week). I love the "I run the oil a little low" comment - of course, otherwise like all of them, it dumps oily foam out the breather! Quick question too, I changed my chain recently too (very uneven tension measured across different parts) and I'm interested in your opinion on changing sprockets. Obviously a bigger deal on a Norton than something new, but are you concerned at all about replacing the chain and neither sprocket? Lots of internet noise about that being a concern (but not Norton specific). Anyway, this is incredibly valuable work! I can't thank you enough for taking the time to video and edit all of this. Its a gift to all classic bike owners. I think I'm going to have to get myself a lift and start doing the kind of regular, thorough inspections you share. Thanks again!
Thank you so much for your fantastic comment. That was so enjoyable to read. I'm glad you like the videos. I get a tremendous amount of pleasure from working on the bikes and doing the videos. I haven't worried too much about the sprockets to be honest. I tend to just leave my bikes in stock and standard configurations, unless something really needs attention or is a wise and/or safe upgrade. I really appreciate some of the more custom bikes, but I am perfectly happy with the standard set up. I think I like the idea very much of riding a bike just how it would have ridden and felt back in the day. Best wishes, Mike
Starting with a clean bike! Amazing what you find during a cleanup. Thanks for sharing, Mike!
Thank you Larry. Yes I think it really helps to touch everything now and again just to make sure that everything seems OK. Best wishes, Mike
The magic of maintaining a motorcycle - I can feel it.
Cheers, Hans.
Thank you very much, Hans. Glad you enjoyed the video. Best wishes, Mike
Great video, I appreciate the detail. Excellent job cleaning/detailing, and you are very correct about one thing, there is no better way to thoroughly inspect a bike that by performing a serious, nut and bolt level cleaning. It's the first thing I do on new bikes. Thanks for the video, looking forward to part 2.
Thank you very much! The second part should be in a couple of weeks. Glad you enjoyed the video. Best wishes, Mike
Brings back old memories... I bought one that looked just like that in 1978. The first ride on it was a lot of fun and a little scary. I had never ridden a bike with the brake and shifter reversed.
Great job maintaining can often be the difference in a great ride and a BUMMER. Enjoyed the vid Mike.
Subscribed and Liked .
Just bought a High Rider in original condition . 1974 850.
8000 miles . Thanks for sharing your channel . 👍🇨🇦
Hi Mike, many thanks for your note. I appreciate it and also thank you for subscribing! Great to hear about your Hi Rider and all the best with your new bike. Cheers, Mike
Good tip for adjusting the chain Mike, thanks from Australia
Thanks a lot Stephen, the adjusters are a good start and I will be fine tuning the adjustment hopefully in an upcoming video. Best wishes, Mike
The rear brake inspection gromets are on all Mk 2s and 2As from about end Q1 1974 onward. I believe a new regulation in the USA introduced in early 1974 required them. Certainly my Mk2 built in August 1974 has them. This does mean the chainguard is also a little different. On another matter. The standard rear brake is indeed a bit hopeless but RGM now sell high friction shoes which make a huge difference. You will probably need to arc them in a lath to fit however.
Thanks for your videos. Nice to see a presentation given in a more mature and less hyper drama fashion.
Thank you very much John, I appreciate it. It's still my favorite bike! Best wishes, Mike
These videos really helped me my 74 Commando. Thank you 👍
Thanks a lot Chris!
I run a slim o-ring chain with riveted chain lock on my Commando but had to shorten the chain by a few links. Good tip for the rear axle adjustment!
Hi Uli. I hope all is well. Yes the adjusters are a good start to fine-tuning the alignment of the rear wheel. I’ve got a bit more work to do on the wheel. Best wishes, Mike
Love your vids and am an avid Canadian follower !!
As the new owner of a 1974 850 Commando I would love you to do a basic Maintenance Vid of fluid changes ect.
Yes, I have owners service manuals, but there is nothing like watching an expert with all the tricks to help alleviate the nervousness of getting something wrong.
Hi Martin, thank you very much for your nice note. I really appreciate it. The next episode in this TLC mini-series covers the oil changes. It will probably be a couple of weeks before it airs as I’ve got another video in the queue for next Sunday. Good luck with your Commando! They are wonderful bikes!
Nice video as usual. I like the way your axle adjuster nuts are place, mine are on opposite sides of the swingarm lug and forward one difficult to turn. This is how the book shows it but your setup looks better. BTW my '74 850 MKII also has the two shoe inspection holes on the drum.
Beautiful bikes Nortons, greetings from England
Thanks a lot Christopher! Glad you enjoy the videos. Best wishes, Mike
Not a big fan of chain drive, but it was satisfying to watch you do the maintenance on all of this.
Thank you very much! Best wishes, Mike
Thanks Mike! 👍
Thank you Matt!
I suspect that the brown goop on the brake shoes is the overspray from the lining adhesive?
But that's a guess.
Thank you very much. I appreciate it. Best wishes
The rear brake drum looked nice and clean inside when you took it off and the new linings looked the part.
Thank you very much. Very usefull and vert very well realised
Thank you very much Nicolas. Best wishes, Mike
Thanks for this look forward to the next couple. Love the chain adjuster technique. Always been paranoid about getting alignment right.
Thanks very much Nick. Yes the adjusters are a good start to the wheel alignment. I’ve still got to do some fine-tuning with the wheel and might try and cover it in an upcoming video. But generally I measure from the dead center of the axle on both sides to the center of the isolastics stud. Hope all is well, best wishes, Mike
Loved this Mike; I only wish it was an hour long! 🤪 There is nothing like fettling a motorcycle. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Thank you Steve. There should be another episode coming up in a couple of weeks. Best wishes, Mike
Don’t know if you care or not but I have found that Autosol Metal Polish works better than Simichrome polish. I’ve been polishing my 1973 850 Commando since 1973 when I bought it and Autosol saves me time and effort. Makes my fingers happier.
Thanks for the tip! Cheers
This is so helpful and fun the clipboard is brilliant. Thx Mike
Ha ha, thank you Jim! I find myself adding to the clipboard all the time 😉
Nice work mate.
Hi Mike, I have the same tyres on my 500 Daytona I have just purchased, and I was amazed how well they handle in the Twisties, in fact when the Dunlop’s K82 have worn out on my Honda CB 400 Four, I will consider fitting Avon roadrider’s on it, even though I liked the classic period look of the Dunlop’s, in fact the next time I’m out for a ride, I will take both bikes out one after the other on the same route, to see if I notice any difference, but it might just be that I’ve not ridden the 400 for 4 weeks now, but anyway the Avon roadrider certainly do work very well on the Daytona, I enjoyed watching you work on the commando, like me your very meticulous, but when we are on two wheels it’s safe first, and it’s amazing how faults can be discovered when cleaning a bike. Say safe cheers Martin ⚙️🔩🔧🇬🇧👍
Hey Mike! Glad to see there real wheel was a pain for you as well.. Had a mate come over and run my Interstate yesterday while my leg heals.. Of course from the sitting now the carbs need a good going through...Still she ran well enough and I can not wait to put on the new head steady and new fork cartridges' as they should really help with the handling and the bumpy roads etc...My bikes felt a bit vague in the tight fast stuff. My only complaint on this video is your bike is just to clean..It kills me when I look at my bike to see all the gleam your bike has...
Hi Eric, I’m glad to hear that you are doing a little better and recovering. Yes, isn’t it funny how one job leads to seven others!Best wishes, Mike
Great vlog. Yep...I too rate Avon roadriders. Have them on my 40 year old Honda 250rsa and RE classic chrome 500.
Thanks very much!
The coating on the brake shoes could be Cerakote. A guess though, I use it in the UK on my bike parts. Looks like Burnt Bronze colour.
Thanks a lot Ian. I appreciate it. Best wishes
Great following you my friend, I use the same tires do well.
Thanks for sharing ,beautiful bike 👍🙌🏴
Many thanks Johnathan. I appreciate your note. Best wishes, Mike
Thanks
She even looks fast with the rear wheel out Mike. Hey Mike, do you look 👀 under the hood to check the engine oil in your car, 😂 I’m getting tyred, ooops, tired 🥱 now, it’s quite late ⏰ here, around 23:45 . lol niiiiiiiiiiice video man. 😎👍👍👍🇬🇧
Ha ha! We have been here so long now that I sometimes forget which is the right spelling 😀😀 Some of the British words seem so funny now, like bonnet instead of hood 😉Hope all is well. Cheers, Mike
Mike the A10 is due a service, can you fit it in for me !! lol 😂 …. Ray 🇬🇧
Hi Ray, I would love to work with you on your BSA A10! They are a wonderful bike. My friend Jeff is working on one at the moment and I’m hoping to go and visit him. Best wishes
Nice work Mike! I have watched a lot of your videos and I appreciate all of them. I have a 71 Commando and your videos have helped me out greatly thank you. I did however when doing my brakes in the rear took the drum to a friend of mine and a machine shop they indicated the drum in a lathe and then just did a light skim on it I was wondering if you did that to yours? I believe it's always good to have a new surface on new brake shoes.
Hi Mark. Thanks a lot for your note. Yes, skimming the drum is definitely the best way to go. Unfortunately the place that I went to couldn’t do it. Best wishes, Mike
Hi Mike. Love the maintenance videos. When is the next instalment! Enjoy all your videos. Best wishes from Blighty.
Thanks a lot for the reminder, Martin. I'm still working on part #2. I took it down temporarily as I made a mistake and didn't want folks to make the same mistake. I hope to edit it again and release soon. Best wishes, Mike
Que lindos vídeos Mike.siempre esperando para verte.ssaludos Rafa de mardel plata Argentina.
Hola Rafa, muchas gracias. Me alegra que disfrutes de los videos. Siempre es bueno saber de ti. Los mejores deseos,
Grande máquina !!!!!
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
I have a 73 mk1 and I am having trouble centralizing the the brake shoes in the drum, I have a new drum and shoes, any ideas yours seam fine.
One tip for better brake centralizing is to apply the brake by holding the pedal down firmly (I use a rubber hammer handle jammed between pedal abd foot peg) then tighten up the rear axle following wheel aligning. A tip to getting wheel aligned is to measure center of axle bolt or nut to the rear isolastic pivot bolt center, either side, then use wheel axle adjusters until measurement is same both sides.
@@TornadoCAN99 Excellent tips, many thanks!
Bike is looking spot on Mike, safety first every time .. 👍
I think like most mechanical things you always seem to have one or two nuts or bolts that continue to just 'ease off' & require a nip up from time to time 😂
atvb t ..
Thanks very much Terry. Yes, that was an enjoyable project. Got a couple more videos still to come in this little mini series. Hope you are doing OK. Best wishes, Mike
Dennis would proud of your polishing 👍
Do you not oil your chain before fitting or is it easier and less messy 🤔
Have great week Mike, thanks for sharing ☕️🫖😎
Many thanks David. Also for the tip on oilingthe chain. Dennis would probably have had me go back over the bike a couple more times 😉 Best wishes, Mike
Mike, the tyre is not sitting correct on the wheel! I know You have seen the bump🤓
Hi Nikola! I did indeed! I haven’t had a chance to look into it yet but had to end the video as it was getting a bit long :-)
The 'brown coating' is likely cosmoline.
A rust preventative.
Most brake shoe frames/bodies(?) are steel,and even though
the Norton's are aluminum,applying this product,is probably standard procedure,
for the type of shop that did the work.
fwiw
Thank you very much Billy. I appreciate it. Best wishes
Great video!! Very informing. Can you please tell me what handlebars you have? Are they the European ones as seen on the Andover website? Part # 06.5748?
Thanks a lot Mick. I appreciate it. I don't think they are the same as 06-5748, which I believe are the slightly higher bars for the 1975 MK3 Commando.
I believe these were called the “euro“ bars. I’m sorry but I can’t remember where I got them from.
I think they might be more like 06.0784, which according to Andover are the handlebars for the Norton Commando Home Market 1968- 1970
nvt-motorcycles.com/files/63f/No.%2029%20HANDLEBARS%20including%20dimensions.pdf
I thought I got mine from CNW (Colorado Norton Works), but I looked at the website and they are over $100, so I am sure i didn’t spend that much! I seem to remember that they were about $30-$50. I think I may have got them from OIdBritts or Commando Specialties. Here’s the CNW website in case you want to go for the top of the line bars. coloradonortonworks.net/handlebars-european-clubman-style.html
Edit: A viewer called Chase Stobbe (thanks Chase) also replied that a company called MAP Cycle has that pattern of bars at around $60.
@@TheMightyGarage thanks heaps Mike. Keep up the great work and safe travels 👍👍
@@mickpalmer1966 Thanks a lot Mick. Cheers!
How many balance weights are on that wheel??? Is the tyre seated correctly or does the rim have a flat spot? Something isn't right.
Thank you very much for your note. I really appreciate it. Yes, that was me getting concerned in the last clip of the video. I completely agree. I’m going to take another look at the wheel and tire. Yes, they fitted a ton of weights. There were originally some of the cone shaped lead weights on the spokes, but they removed them and replaced them with 2 rows of 5 ounce shiny weights. The reason for the weights is that the rim has a rim lock on the opposite side. I’m actually thinking about removing the rim lock as I don’t think it needs it with the new modern Avon tires. I appreciate you mentioning this. Best wishes, Mike
@@TheMightyGarage Hi Mike, I would agree with removing the rim lock, I don't use them even on my race bikes. Andy.
@@mv4ago thank you Andy
@@TheMightyGarage You might also consider using bead balancing. I run a brand "Counteract Balancing" in my two bikes and never need ugly wheel weights. I use the "Ready Balance" tubes from them. counteractbalancing.com/products/ready-balance/
@@TornadoCAN99thanks for the tip. I am going to be doing 4 tires here soon so as soon as the tires I want are available again this looks like a good option... anyone know of a video demonstration / review of these tubes?
If you could mention the wrench size please.. as I am learning to care for brit bikes . Harley and Honda's . Hearing wrench size would speed thing's up ..
Im waiting on a 1973 Norton to arrive. It needs tires. Can you tell me what size tires you run please. I want to order tires.
Hi Bill, I run the Avon Roadriders 100/19-19 on both the front and rear on my Commandos. I understand that they are pretty hard to come by right now, due to the factory closing down in England, so you might need to consider other brands such as Heidenau, Dunlop & Michelin. Good luck with your new bike! They are great. Best wishes.
I remember wearing the old Roadrunner tyres out in a thousand miles on the rear of my Mk3...... too soft a compund by far !
Thanks a lot for your note. Yes I’ve heard from a lot of friends that the Avons don’t last too long. The new roadriders are very good in my opinion. I have them on a lot of my bikes but to be honest I don’t cover a lot of miles and so they are great. Best wishes
@@TheMightyGarage Grip means more to me than milage - especially in the rain. I am using Avon Storm Ultra 3D XM 's on the rear of my Harleys and get about 5000 miles but both bikes are highly modified and make over 100bhp. I have a Roadrider on the Sportster and a Cobra on the Dyna, with 19 inch rims you do not have much choice for your Norton.
@@thakery5720 there’s not much choice. It’s generally either Dunlop or Avon. There are a couple of other brands but most of the guys go with the above two. Cheers
76' Western Province SA ,Avon ROADRUNNERS were fab on rear CB K2 750 Honda, TT100 Dunlops on front ..
@@mickbrown8249 They were great on my Commando - but with 19 inch rims as standard, the only tyre you could fit was a 4.10 x 19 and it wore out super quick because of the tiny contact patch and the large torque of the bike's engine.
Oh dear. No mention of front and rear sprocket inspection/replacement with a new chain. Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear.
Try to worry so much my dear!
Jeez, that's a ridiculous amount of wheel weights, don't you think?
Thanks Russ, yes I totally agree!
I’m not sure if I will keep them. They actually removed the original cone lead cone weights from the spokes and added 2 rows of new 5 ounce weights to compensate for the rim lock on the other side of the rim. I’m actually thinking about removing the rim lock altogether so that I can remove at least some of the horrible rows of shiny counterweights! Thanks, Mike
Thanks again Russ for pointing the tyre/tire out! It was definitely not seated correctly and I wasn't happy with all the bedazzled weights on the rim. I took the wheel off this morning and took it over to my friend Geoff's place. We removed the tire and the rim lock wasn't engaged with the tire, therefore pushing it up off the rim. We also removed those weights and re-balanced the wheel. We only had to place a couple of much nicer cone weights on the spokes. It's miles better now and I'm much happier with it. Thanks again!