You gotta bear in mind. It was this much trouble because every single piece of sheet metal that surrounded my glass was reproduction, so my car was a worst-case scenario.
Thank you. That was great video you made. I now understand what is entailed to change an older vehicle to flush mounted glass. Very impressive and you are easy to understand. Bravo!
Man, what a PITA. But you’re doing great work and it’ll be worth it when you’re done. I wanted to do this with my build but I’m already in over my head as it is. Maybe the next one….keep up the great work, Ian!
Yeah, I'm approaching around 2k hours since I started in August 2018. There's no way I could ever get rid of this car. I don't think my spine would support building another.
Wow what a learning lesson this is! I'm definitely not going to do this on my '64 Chevelle, besides, I like the chrome trim. Great video, very informative.
I'll be starting my own project soon and your videos are a great help. I love the look of flushed mounted glass and I am trying to decide to do it or not. So I have to ask would you do it again? If you did what would you change?
I would, but instead of going into it blindly, I'd first set the stock glass into the car and gauge whether or not it makes sense to make the car meet the stock glass, or if larger glass, aka flush mount glass, should be used. Your car might not even have aftermarket flush mount glass available. If it doesn't, then you're looking at probably 100+ hours of work to reshape your car's window channels to make it smaller and meet the stock glass, thus making it flush mount glass. On the other hand, if your car is all original sheet metal, and you install Fesler aftermarket flush mount glass, then the process should be far easier for you than it was for me, at which time the decision should be a no brainer. It's all about your circumstances.
knowing what you do now, would you still go with the flush mount glass or would you do metal work to make the OE glass (if you had it, I know you didnt) work? I am considering doing this to my truck
If I was replacing all the metal around the glass on account of rust, then I'd do the metal work and use OE glass to achieve flush mount glass. However, if my car was solid and that wasn't necessary, then I'd buy the aftermarket flush mount glass. All depends on the car.
how close was the og glass to fitting in the body being the larger glass set was too large am i following you or did i not listen well enough it just sounds like a ton of extra work why not get the larger pieces massaged down to fit in body even with you replacing every piece of sheetmetal on your nova the window holes shouldnt be off more than 3/16ths or less i mean those panels are pretty good
I don't have the original rear glass at all. By the time I realized what I had done, I had already spent $2k on the flushmount glass so at that point, it was what it was. That's the trouble with a lot of this stuff, when you have no idea what you're doing, epiphanies generally come to me after the fact.
Man, Idk. Hard to say. I probably worked on the glass openings at both ends for around 3 months I'd guess. I did other things during that time, but most of it was working on the glass. If I had to guess, I'd say maybe 100-125 hours.
Honestly not trying to be a dick and genuinely curious, at that point where all that's left original are some rockers and the doors, why not buy a new body from a company like realdealsteel that's all good to go with better factory welds and already in primer?
That's a great question. I have lots of answers, so here they are: 1 - I've spoken to people with Real Deal cars, and I'm told they're terrible. Nothing lines up nicely at all. 2 - If you get one, you've got yourself a reproduction kit car. The title will not reflect that it's from the 60's, because it's not, and it'll probably reflect in value when you go to sell it. 3 - Pride... Buying an old car with the intent to restore it and then admitting defeat just isn't me. I signed up for this, and I intend to see it through. 4 - Character. I found bullet holes in mine. I had to cut that area out, but I think at some point I might weld those bullet holes back into an inconspicuous spot on the car. Just something need to talk about with people at shows 5 - Lack of judgement. Idk, I guess I'm just glutton for punishment.
That's certainly an option, but it's an enormous amount of work to build the entire channel down to the glass. I think Fesler's appeal is that for a factory original car, you don't need to do any metal work, and that's certainly worth the $2k.
I’d fill the gaps with All Metal, it’s some tough stuff and will outlast the rest of the car. P.S. Buy it in quarts only , once air hits the stuff , it starts going south in a few weeks. 🤬🤬
That's a dip without chips. Poor car he really put the screws to it without lubrication. Nasty Ugly work is what he said in the video. It's the only thing he got right on this video. The windows will break Crack first pot hole that car hits . I am under whelmed. Period.......
That weakened the structure of the pillars that car is unsafe shorty work at best. People are at risk in that car. The rest of the metal work I wouldn't trust with his chopping hacking whack job. THE CAR WILL BREAK APART IN A COLISSION just saying your metal working skills are of a two year old.
I'm not understanding, if that unnecessarily expensive glass is designed to flush mount in a factory body shell, wouldn't that mean that the replacement panels didn't get welded in the right spot during replacement? Why didn't you fit the glass before welding and adjust accordingly?
The replacement panels don't match the oem panels at all. They're a terrible fit. All aftermarket panels fit like garbage, so whether you're using stock glass or aftermarket glass, be ready to do lots of cutting, bending, pushing, pulling, and welding to get anything to fit. When you see a car at the car show and all the panels fit together like garbage and nothing lines up, that's a guy who just welded the aftermarket panels on and immediately went back to drinking beer.
What a massive PITA! I commend your determination to get this knocked out without being discouraged! Great video
You gotta bear in mind. It was this much trouble because every single piece of sheet metal that surrounded my glass was reproduction, so my car was a worst-case scenario.
Thank you. That was great video you made. I now understand what is entailed to change an older vehicle to flush mounted glass. Very impressive and you are easy to understand. Bravo!
I appreciate that. Please consider subscribing.
Man, what a PITA. But you’re doing great work and it’ll be worth it when you’re done. I wanted to do this with my build but I’m already in over my head as it is. Maybe the next one….keep up the great work, Ian!
Yeah, I'm approaching around 2k hours since I started in August 2018. There's no way I could ever get rid of this car. I don't think my spine would support building another.
Wow what a learning lesson this is! I'm definitely not going to do this on my '64 Chevelle, besides, I like the chrome trim. Great video, very informative.
I'll be starting my own project soon and your videos are a great help. I love the look of flushed mounted glass and I am trying to decide to do it or not. So I have to ask would you do it again? If you did what would you change?
I would, but instead of going into it blindly, I'd first set the stock glass into the car and gauge whether or not it makes sense to make the car meet the stock glass, or if larger glass, aka flush mount glass, should be used. Your car might not even have aftermarket flush mount glass available. If it doesn't, then you're looking at probably 100+ hours of work to reshape your car's window channels to make it smaller and meet the stock glass, thus making it flush mount glass. On the other hand, if your car is all original sheet metal, and you install Fesler aftermarket flush mount glass, then the process should be far easier for you than it was for me, at which time the decision should be a no brainer. It's all about your circumstances.
knowing what you do now, would you still go with the flush mount glass or would you do metal work to make the OE glass (if you had it, I know you didnt) work? I am considering doing this to my truck
If I was replacing all the metal around the glass on account of rust, then I'd do the metal work and use OE glass to achieve flush mount glass. However, if my car was solid and that wasn't necessary, then I'd buy the aftermarket flush mount glass. All depends on the car.
Yes, more nova videos!
how close was the og glass to fitting in the body being the larger glass set was too large am i following you or did i not listen well enough it just sounds like a ton of extra work why not get the larger pieces massaged down to fit in body even with you replacing every piece of sheetmetal on your nova the window holes shouldnt be off more than 3/16ths or less i mean those panels are pretty good
I don't have the original rear glass at all. By the time I realized what I had done, I had already spent $2k on the flushmount glass so at that point, it was what it was. That's the trouble with a lot of this stuff, when you have no idea what you're doing, epiphanies generally come to me after the fact.
This is crazy man… how many hours?
Man, Idk. Hard to say. I probably worked on the glass openings at both ends for around 3 months I'd guess. I did other things during that time, but most of it was working on the glass. If I had to guess, I'd say maybe 100-125 hours.
Honestly not trying to be a dick and genuinely curious, at that point where all that's left original are some rockers and the doors, why not buy a new body from a company like realdealsteel that's all good to go with better factory welds and already in primer?
That's a great question. I have lots of answers, so here they are:
1 - I've spoken to people with Real Deal cars, and I'm told they're terrible. Nothing lines up nicely at all.
2 - If you get one, you've got yourself a reproduction kit car. The title will not reflect that it's from the 60's, because it's not, and it'll probably reflect in value when you go to sell it.
3 - Pride... Buying an old car with the intent to restore it and then admitting defeat just isn't me. I signed up for this, and I intend to see it through.
4 - Character. I found bullet holes in mine. I had to cut that area out, but I think at some point I might weld those bullet holes back into an inconspicuous spot on the car. Just something need to talk about with people at shows
5 - Lack of judgement. Idk, I guess I'm just glutton for punishment.
fesler glass is about $2,000 , I always make my channels to use factory glass which costs $150-200 .
That's certainly an option, but it's an enormous amount of work to build the entire channel down to the glass. I think Fesler's appeal is that for a factory original car, you don't need to do any metal work, and that's certainly worth the $2k.
I’d fill the gaps with All Metal, it’s some tough stuff and will outlast the rest of the car. P.S. Buy it in quarts only , once air hits the stuff , it starts going south in a few weeks. 🤬🤬
Gleah-mount glass has received very poor quality reports. The glass comes with large waves and looks like crap.
$1799 for a kit wow that’s crazy. Rather do a factory look for a cheaper price
That's a dip without chips. Poor car he really put the screws to it without lubrication. Nasty Ugly work is what he said in the video. It's the only thing he got right on this video. The windows will break Crack first pot hole that car hits . I am under whelmed. Period.......
Don't hold back David. Tell me what you really think.
That weakened the structure of the pillars that car is unsafe shorty work at best. People are at risk in that car. The rest of the metal work I wouldn't trust with his chopping hacking whack job. THE CAR WILL BREAK APART IN A COLISSION just saying your metal working skills are of a two year old.
I sure do love the internet David. It's a place where people have the chance to be polite, and then just say, "Ahhh F it."
I'm not understanding, if that unnecessarily expensive glass is designed to flush mount in a factory body shell, wouldn't that mean that the replacement panels didn't get welded in the right spot during replacement? Why didn't you fit the glass before welding and adjust accordingly?
The replacement panels don't match the oem panels at all. They're a terrible fit. All aftermarket panels fit like garbage, so whether you're using stock glass or aftermarket glass, be ready to do lots of cutting, bending, pushing, pulling, and welding to get anything to fit. When you see a car at the car show and all the panels fit together like garbage and nothing lines up, that's a guy who just welded the aftermarket panels on and immediately went back to drinking beer.
@RedlineStands hmmm, okay. All that cutting a d welding will be a corrosion nightmare on the backside of all of those panels.