If you listened and watched you would realise that the groove cut was very shallow so wouldn't weaken the tube by a significant enough amount to matter. Great tip. Thanks for posting.
Good video, I have done tons of what you are doing. For pins if you get 1/2 inch round bar you can make lots of pins for pennies. Grinding the groove to get around the flash does not cause significant weakening because creative steel builders tend to over build anyways .If you could get tubing with the flash removed and use it for the receiver it saves a bit of work. I'm curious about why with these youtube comments , there are always people that come across as non constructive negative commentators instead of suggesting ideas from their own experiences. Maybe they just don't have any experiences. ED
Nice tip! Only one little problem, if the seam weld is off center, your marking technique will only work on one side, no big deal, it just means you gotta double check by measuring the mark. Cheers for the upload!
most steel manufacturers publish a table of "telescoping" tube and RHS along with the clearances. You can pick how tight you want it by selecting thicker wall thickness of the outer tube.
GREAT IDEA!! thanks. do you have a follow-up video showing the rest of the process? i know you kind of explained it a little with the bolts/pins, but i'd like to see a kind of start-to-finish of the project even if its on multiple videos. thanks again. this is what i've been searching for.
I wouldn't ding both ends. Do one, and then use a combination square to mark the other end. Otherwise if the weld isn't dead centre, you'll get a diagonal line.
nwimpney I was thinking the same thing. If the weld is off center, as it often is, you have to follow that. Otherwise, you’ll get a line that goes from one side to the other.
Great tip I'm new to fab. The pins your talking about are redly available at Ace/ lowes/ home depot & some have multiple pin holes. I used them on a Bar stool racer I just finished didn't want to weld seat steering up rights so I could ship ups if I sell it later. Just pushed through pined cut off looks great & smaller head than bolts. Good luck!!!
+Dave Smulders I had observed the same thing. He only needs to mark one side then extend that mark down the side of the smaller tube. His marking method would not work if say the weld bead was offset. In marking both sides, he would end up with a diagonal line on the smaller square tubing. Good stuff otherwise!
Dinging each end and scribing a line between only works if weld seam is in the middle of the tube. Sometimes these seams are to one side. If you're looking for a pin, look for a hitch pin. Welding the seam hardins that part of the tube, so plan for your holes so you don't need to drill the seam.
Use a cap screw and thread the inside piece. Easy to make and take down. It would also prevent any vibration and that loose sound if you were able to screw it down tight. Great work around if all you have is square tube with the inner bead.
If want to slide 3/4" into 1", 1" into 1 1/4", or 1 1/4" into 1 1/2" just make sure the larger of the two sizes is no thicker than 100' wall and the two will slide together nicely with no grinding and not sloppy.
I've got a patent pending for a piece I've designed that uses the 'slip-joint' type fit- though in 'heavy guage'. I personally used square-clipped lock pins for ease of takedown; if you're working on is semi-permanent(if it was permanent,you'd just weld it), I'd use adjustable Clevis pins w/ cotter pins in them. Contrary to what's been said, making the small groove in 'mild' steel' WON'T weaken it !
Nice tip Thankyou very much i had tried the other approach. Of grinding the inside out with a Rotary tool knowing there had to be a better way BTW i am a retired Woodworker that Knows enough about metal. To Be dangerous to myself my Grand father was a professional Welder and my Father taught me some basics although he was more of a Carpenter than a Metal guy
If you ding both ends, your line could wind up as a diagonal. Secondly, the integrity of the insertion tube could be maintained if you route out the seam line on the surface. The inside has a build up from the seam weld that you could take advantage of....re; JR Helicopters
You can remove that weld flash from any length tube. make a tool that you pull through any length of tubing with a little HSS lathe bit bolted in place that removes the weld flash. Use some all thread and a power drill to pull the tool through the tube. Once you make the tool for any goven size tube it can be used over and over. This way you won't be weakening your tubing with that groove.
Good tip if you're stuck but my local metal supplier sells 0.100" wall square tubing so the 1" fits into 1.25" fits into 1.5" and so on. No dinging needed.
+Bruce Kennedy Exactly what I was thinking. They usually bead the outside of that tubing and then grind off the bead for you. One less thing to worry about, meaning a quicker job.
That's about as clear as mud. A few more visual aids could help make this understandable to us mortals, but where you end up is a great idea, I just don't understand how you're getting there. Hope I'm the only one with this problem though. Thanks, JD
Been using your method for years when joining to 2 pieces of SHS together. Anything structural I always use an insert, plug welded into place before welding the 2 lengths of steel together.
Is the weld bead on the outer piece always gonna be centered? If it's not, wouldn't it be offset when you flip the inner piece to put marks on both sides for your scribe line, in which case your scribe line would be diagonal?
Good tip; just used it in making removable uprights on my fire pit (for roasting the pig I'm getting ready to shoot). Fast, easy, used stock I had on hand. Nice tip to keep in the brain file. Thanks.
So I want to make a Swedish ladder. It's exercise equipment. I will use 4x4 lumber for the uprights. The horizontal rungs are traditionally wood, but they eventually snap and need replacement. So I want to use metal/steel for the rungs. What do you guys recommend? Considerations: - 39in length; roughly 1.25in diameter - rust resistant - strong enough to hold 400+lb safely (people, punching bag, etc.) - strong enough on which to swing, jump, stand, bounce - not too expensive; will be using about 60 feet worth of tubes/pipes Thanks!
What are the sizes of those square tubes in the video? I want to use this system for a personal project and I was wondering if you can give me the size for the small tube and also for the big one(it seems a perfect match) Thanks!
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If you listened and watched you would realise that the groove cut was very shallow so wouldn't weaken the tube by a significant enough amount to matter. Great tip. Thanks for posting.
This actually works really well! I saw this video last week and tried it last night. Had to come back and leave a comment. Great tip!
Just ran into this exact situation. Thanks for the great idea!
Good video, I have done tons of what you are doing. For pins if you get 1/2 inch round bar you can make lots of pins for pennies. Grinding the groove to get around the flash does not cause significant weakening because creative steel builders tend to over build anyways .If you could get tubing with the flash removed and use it for the receiver it saves a bit of work. I'm curious about why with these youtube comments , there are always people that come across as non constructive negative commentators instead of suggesting ideas from their own experiences. Maybe they just don't have any experiences. ED
Good tip man. Sometimes you can't always get seamless tubing. Great trick, thanks for sharing.
Nice tip! Only one little problem, if the seam weld is off center, your marking technique will only work on one side, no big deal, it just means you gotta double check by measuring the mark. Cheers for the upload!
@Moon shiner amperaje adecuado para soldar con varilla 7018 3/32
most steel manufacturers publish a table of "telescoping" tube and RHS along with the clearances. You can pick how tight you want it by selecting thicker wall thickness of the outer tube.
Good idea, thanks for the suggestion!
love the chirping birds in background lol great tip BTW
Thanks for the tip, really good idea. Cheers.
best tip ive seen in a while, i once worked on pop up cars for winow washers, and they didnt know this one
Thank you for taking the time to share this with us. EXCELLENT tip!!!
Hey pawpaw 👋, what are you doing over here. LOL
That idea is a keeper. Thanks.
thanks Mr. Marchio for square tubing tip.
Very good - thank you for posting
Am I the only one who gets scrap steel for my home projects? I save a lot of money and I get what is available, so thanks for the tip! Liked!
GREAT IDEA!! thanks. do you have a follow-up video showing the rest of the process? i know you kind of explained it a little with the bolts/pins, but i'd like to see a kind of start-to-finish of the project even if its on multiple videos. thanks again. this is what i've been searching for.
I wouldn't ding both ends. Do one, and then use a combination square to mark the other end. Otherwise if the weld isn't dead centre, you'll get a diagonal line.
nwimpney I was thinking the same thing. If the weld is off center, as it often is, you have to follow that. Otherwise, you’ll get a line that goes from one side to the other.
Well, there it is... I could have saved 3 minutes of my time by not repeating what is already said here :-D
Nice tip, I like it!!
it's called a chamfer my friend, good vid
Great tip, thanks!
Thanks man! I've always wanted one of those things. Didn't even know what to call it!
thank you for this awesome idea!
Friend. Please. What are the measures of both tubes? Excellent video and very good your explanation. Thank you very much!
good tip man
Thanks for the tip dude good advice
I have the same gloves, love 'em! Good video!
Great Tip!! Thanks
Great tip I'm new to fab. The pins your talking about are redly available at Ace/ lowes/ home depot & some have multiple pin holes. I used them on a Bar stool racer I just finished didn't want to weld seat steering up rights so I could ship ups if I sell it later. Just pushed through pined cut off looks great & smaller head than bolts. Good luck!!!
Thanks mate - very helpful tip!
1 1/2"- 1/8th inch wall and the smaller is 1 1/4"- 1/8th inch wall.
Great idea...thanks!
Brilliant idea mate very good thank you
awsome tip!
Great demonstration. Best regards
You either have to ding only one side and scribe from there, or this only works if the weld is actually exactly in the middle.
+Dave Smulders I had observed the same thing. He only needs to mark one side then extend that mark down the side of the smaller tube. His marking method would not work if say the weld bead was offset. In marking both sides, he would end up with a diagonal line on the smaller square tubing. Good stuff otherwise!
No.
Very good , great tip !
Dude…. Sick video. You’re v skilled
I've always done this to join the left over pieces of steel together to make one long piece and it even works well with the round steel.
Dinging each end and scribing a line between only works if weld seam is in the middle of the tube. Sometimes these seams are to one side. If you're looking for a pin, look for a hitch pin. Welding the seam hardins that part of the tube, so plan for your holes so you don't need to drill the seam.
Use a cap screw and thread the inside piece. Easy to make and take down. It would also prevent any vibration and that loose sound if you were able to screw it down tight.
Great work around if all you have is square tube with the inner bead.
very good and fast explanation. You are talented.
If want to slide 3/4" into 1", 1" into 1 1/4", or 1 1/4" into 1 1/2" just make sure the larger of the two sizes is no thicker than 100' wall and the two will slide together nicely with no grinding and not sloppy.
Good video. One tip use a magic marker for the line. It’s easier to see when grinding. The Old Goat.
Awesome tip thanks, and I have the same welding gloves
Good tip, may try it in future.
use round heavy wall tubing or pipe, for the inside joint connector.
just like on scaffolding frames.
much easier to assemble and disassemble
Thanks for tip will use it.
Nice tip,thank you for sharing.
Good tip!
just a random thought.
If you are worried about looks the receiver part should have put on with weld seam down and you won't see it !
That a very good ideal, thanks a lot.
i have always created a crease on one side with a hydraulic brake if you have one, just enough to make it concave enough
I've got a patent pending for a piece I've designed that uses the 'slip-joint' type fit- though in 'heavy guage'. I personally used square-clipped lock pins for ease of takedown; if you're working on is semi-permanent(if it was permanent,you'd just weld it), I'd use adjustable Clevis pins w/ cotter pins in them.
Contrary to what's been said, making the small groove in 'mild' steel' WON'T weaken it !
Awesome job 👏👏!!!!
Smart tip!
Thanks for this tip, I had this problem before and now I know a better, and easier way to deal with it. Great Video
Would like to know how a 4inch is put in a Nession Pathfinder v6 hardbody 93???4x4??
Nice tip Thankyou very much i had tried the other approach. Of grinding the inside out with a Rotary tool knowing there had to be a better way BTW i am a retired Woodworker that Knows enough about metal. To Be dangerous to myself my Grand father was a professional Welder and my Father taught me some basics although he was more of a Carpenter than a Metal guy
Great Tip. Thanks
This guy is a genius!!!
If you ding both ends, your line could wind up as a diagonal. Secondly, the integrity of the insertion tube could be maintained if you route out the seam line on the surface. The inside has a build up from the seam weld that you could take advantage of....re; JR Helicopters
That "weld line" is called a "seam" where the steel was forged from flat to square . You could spend a little more for seamless tube.
great tip thanks.
You can remove that weld flash from any length tube. make a tool that you pull through any length of tubing with a little HSS lathe bit bolted in place that removes the weld flash. Use some all thread and a power drill to pull the tool through the tube. Once you make the tool for any goven size tube it can be used over and over. This way you won't be weakening your tubing with that groove.
Thanks SO MUCH for making that video! I never thought about grooving. Genious
You are a legend no I can finish my squat rack :-) Thanks.
Good tip if you're stuck but my local metal supplier sells 0.100" wall square tubing so the 1" fits into 1.25" fits into 1.5" and so on. No dinging needed.
Great tip, tks.
good video thanks for sharing :)
Great idea, thanks
just buy flash control square tube (londerville steel Wausau wi)
Stephen, just wondering what were you building, thank you for posting. Good tip
John Hustedde arm wrestling table ?
Good tip thanks
Thanks for the tip! It is just in time!
What are you building?
John
nice job and tip
good tip thanks .
You can buy tubing that is used on trailer hitches w/o the seam.
+Bruce Kennedy Exactly what I was thinking. They usually bead the outside of that tubing and then grind off the bead for you. One less thing to worry about, meaning a quicker job.
DOM
Is there such thing as square DOM? I've never heard of it. Maybe it exists???
+Jacob James it does. check your local steel supply
Bruce Kennedy and I would also get pins from there.
That's about as clear as mud. A few more visual aids could help make this understandable to us mortals, but where you end up is a great idea, I just don't understand how you're getting there. Hope I'm the only one with this problem though. Thanks, JD
Been using your method for years when joining to 2 pieces of SHS together. Anything structural I always use an insert, plug welded into place before welding the 2 lengths of steel together.
Hi, is this a way string way of adding length? For example to widen a table frame? Thanks
You must have lucked up on some tubing with the weld line in dead center.
Nice :) You can also hit it with a chisel to indent the side.
Thanks!
THAT IS A SUPER GOOD TIP THANKS FOR SHARING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
exelente stephentu idea me a servido de mucho gracias por este video saludos desde monterrey nl mexico
Okay.. so I am assuming the outer tube is 2" thin wall??? WHat are the two tube sizes?
good tip, very helpfull
Is the weld bead on the outer piece always gonna be centered? If it's not, wouldn't it be offset when you flip the inner piece to put marks on both sides for your scribe line, in which case your scribe line would be diagonal?
Good tip; just used it in making removable uprights on my fire pit (for roasting the pig I'm getting ready to shoot). Fast, easy, used stock I had on hand. Nice tip to keep in the brain file. Thanks.
Good tip.
So I want to make a Swedish ladder. It's exercise equipment. I will use 4x4 lumber for the uprights. The horizontal rungs are traditionally wood, but they eventually snap and need replacement. So I want to use metal/steel for the rungs. What do you guys recommend?
Considerations:
- 39in length; roughly 1.25in diameter
- rust resistant
- strong enough to hold 400+lb safely (people, punching bag, etc.)
- strong enough on which to swing, jump, stand, bounce
- not too expensive; will be using about 60 feet worth of tubes/pipes
Thanks!
Hey, is there anyway to make a fit better if the tubing is too loose?
What are the sizes of those square tubes in the video? I want to use this system for a personal project and I was wondering if you can give me the size for the small tube and also for the big one(it seems a perfect match) Thanks!
Isn't there square tubing available without the inside weld line? I've seen DOM round stock without it.
hi, what kind of pipe you have used?
Anyone know if this HREW stuff is what people would use for square driveshafts?
Thank you for the information, but why not USE a grinding disk not a cutting disk? Just asking cuz that "Grind" disk is what 1/32 wide?
This method works... better if your grinding wheel is thicker than the width of the weld.
I did that till I found they made SEAMLESS TUBING !!
well done guy