For years I’ve used chisels and hammer, making tube hitches now you shown easier way get the seam out !!! I ordered immediately and sanding belt !! Thank you so much for sharing this solution !!! I’m anxious get the tool to try out !! Update!!! I got the tool this morning, finally got the tubes fixed up !! Thank you !! For sharing!! It’s darn well worth it!!
You should put clamp screws in diagonally - that eliminates all play, whereas a screw perpendicular to one face of the tube allows play parallel to that face. You also get more stock for the threads.
I have been a fabricator for nearly 40 years Brian, Up here in Canada we say screw it and buy seamless tube steel Why deal with seams when it’s not necessary Nice products you manufacture none the less
I love this video! I learned this exact same thing, in a machine shop as well.. for the exact same reasons. I had almost let the information go to the wayside and forgot about this wonderful explanation and tips. Thanks!
Try tapping your set knob on the corner instead of on the flat. That wedges the opposite corner into the V and holds it much more securely for a given tightness.
I spent many hours with sand paper on a 1x1 piece of wood with my first grinder build. After watching you use this tool on your videos, I ran out and bought the electric version. Thanks for sharing this, Brian! Good to see you posting, again, brother.
Alternative for long lengths is grind a groove on the outside of the inner tube. Or 4 if you need to rotate it. Good for situations where the tube is too long to grind out.
@@douganderson7002 I've seen that video. It's a good method but a lot of mucking around if it's a once off or only a really small job. If you are doing things regularly which need it 100% a better method.
Picked up the electric 5 amp Chicago electric band file from harbor freight for removing the seam in my grinder build. The pipes are 9” long and that’s about the longest pipe it can remove the weld from. But it was fantastic. Took about 5 minutes per 9” pipe. Which there was two of. For 30-40$ it’s a great tool. You saved me a lot of time trying to file or chisel it out with the bandfile suggestion! I’m using 2x2 1/4 wall tube and 1.5” solid bar stock for the arms
We’ve ran into this problem before building machinery. The dynafile is one way to remove the weld seam on short pieces. Then you have the problem of pieces that are too long to be able to remove the weld. In those cases we have resorted to taking the mating piece of tubing, placing it in a mill, and milling a V groove in it, so that the groove clears the weld. This allows the pieces to slide back-and-forth without removing the weld.
@@glenpaul3606 yes, a milling machine is the easiest way, but you can also draw a line and use an angle grinder to cut a groove in the part. It’s not ideal, but it can be done.
So I’ve got a trailer tongue jack , the inner telescopic leg, I’ve got a drop down leg that fits inside. But the ol weld seam, I was able to hit it as far as I can, but the last 2”. What do you do when it’s too deep, and your material is too thin to put a groove?
I am a machine designer professionally and a hobbyist metalworker. It might behoove you to have a broach made up to shave out the inside of the outer tube since you are producing the kits in quantities. Remove the mill scale first then put the broach through to remove the weld flash/seam.
I made a inverted fork spring compressor with square tube steel (picked up at the local scrap yeard) years ago using this same method, smaller square tube inside a larger telescopic, very large 5/8" threaded rod(also got at the scrap yard), cheap small c-clamps I took apart, and removed the cup feet off of, to hold on either side of the inner fork spring, some cutting & welding and about $20 later I had a $200 heavy duty fork press, better than the $200 ones. I even welded another short piece of square tube steel to the back side of the longest outer tube so I could clamp it in my bench vise for a very nice vertical hands free workstation. The one thing I wish I would have tried was vinegar to remove all the milscale back then, I used several other long drawn out painstaking methods and once it was done painted it all with a durable black trailer paint.
How do you address the weld seam in a piece of tubing that is six feet long? The only way I have found is create a groove in piece that slides into the larger tubing that allows the weld seam to ride in the groove. Good video.
Thank you for sharing your ideas and know how , I need to get one of this belt grinder ! Which is better , the air assist or electrical type ? Thanks again.
I have a bucket truck 🛻 and my bucket extends past the back of the truck. 🛻 I recently hit a parked car because of the blind spots…. 🤔👀 Tired of this problem and I want to fix it, I’m thinking 🤔 of mounting my reverse camera on a telescoping tube with a linear actuator, so when I put it in reverse and hit a switch in the cabin, the camera will extend out to the edge of the bucket so I can see what’s behind there. My only thought is if it gets damaged I want to design a failure point in it so it snaps instead of damaging the actuator or tube. Thinking a nylon attachment between the two. Do you know if they make square tubing but in abs, nylon or plastic 🤔
+1 on the air belt sander. I got mine grind out spot welds in panels. Now I use it to flatten welds when needed and chamfer, debur edges..many uses. Now I will try on ERW sq tube next time
Repost here ya make a slug about 6" long insert a pneumatic die grinder valve on. Make the carbide proud of the tubing. Bevel the front end a bit and then turn it on and shove it in like a skewer snake
Have you ever heard of flash out tubing? It's available from any good steel service center. The weld "flash" is already removed to accomplish what your doing.
Might be the same thing by a different name, but I've used "mechanical tubing" and "seamless tubing" before. I didn't order the material, I was just good at following blueprints and allowable tolerances.
@6:36 "You gonna wanna get the good belts for this..." (1/2x18, 36 grit)... but what abrasive? By "good", did you mean ceramic? Or something else? Thanks! BTW, I removed the seam using a drill with longer 1/4 or 3/8 inch (10mm) shaft, slotted on one end, and emerycloth wrapped through the slot. Hold it parallel to the surface but slight angle to the seam to grind away the seam.
This is awesome. I've had ideas for a height adjustable table/desk, but hadn't found a good/strong/cheap way to come up with the telescoping legs. Also for putting small winches in places that I need them temporarily. And other scenarios where I want something that gives me both positioning adjustability and has enough strength to reef on.
Nice video explanation. I've got both a pneumatic and cordless. What would you suggest trying to use for a seam that would be longer than you could reach even by working from both ends. I've tried several different manual approaches but they aren't exactly perfect and take forever.
Video is great but can I get a little help. Purchased. 2x2x 1/4 tubing and 1 1/2x1 1/2 x 3/16 tubing took it home excited, ground the seam flat and no luck. It was severally getting hung up on the corners . Though I might have got some off size metal. Went to a different shop bought the exact same sized and got the same result. Any advice?
The radius on the corners of the 3/16 is smaller than the radius on the 1/4” wall tube. I have found it is best to keep the wall thickness the same on both pieces of tubing for best results.
I am in process of building three grinders. Looked at many different ways to remove the weld but like your video I settled on an air file. I have three different sizes but the 18 and 24 are the best for this project. I like 36 grit belts on this part. I have also tried the vinegar and it works well. I would advise that you look up a Norton Surface conditioning disc. This it a non woven silicon carbide disc that might be a little pricey at first glance but, it really works on removing paint, power coat and mill scale without clogging. One more thing that I had happen was drilling in to a weld. Snapped a bit right off. Should have gone a bit slower on the own feed. Getting really close now to assembly. Made my own version of the tracking device and looks like all will come together well. Thanks!
Nice video...Thanks for sharing. BTW, I built a grinder using the parts from your site and it turned out superb. Aside from my coffee brewer, it is my #2 go-to machine. Thank You!!!!
thanks-thanks. Good tips and nice grade on the video. That vinegar and iron wateri once it's spent could be sold as a wood ager to make new wood look old. Also as a fabric dye and fixative.
Do you have a problem with maintaining the tolerance with paint? I'd assume with an unpainted surface that it would eventually rust. I'm looking for a solution for a piece that I plan to have outdoors, so rust is a much bigger concern.
I'm no expert so I may be using technically incorrect names but most stores call those hand bolts, knob bolts, hand screws, knob screws, hand knobs, there are also hand nuts and knob nuts, smaller ones are usually called thumb screws and thumb nuts. Star knobs and lobe knobs is used both for bolts and nuts, nuts can be blind or through hole too. There are also wing screws and wing nuts. Other practic model are the clamping levers also known as ratchet lever knobs, those can be used as a lever to turn the bolt but you can change the position of the lever without moving the bolt by pulling the lever up. Adjustable handles are usually just a lever with a bolt or threaded hole. Eccentric or cam clamp levers are the type most commonly used on bicycle seats and wheels, but of course can be used for other purposes and can be also made of steel.
I just made a 2 x 72 and instead of grinding the weld out I ground a small { weld size] groove down the inner tube. All you need is a regular 4.5 in. grinder that most of us already own. The advantage is you are not restricted by the length of the tube. worked well for me.
That’s one way to get it done. My personal preference is to not see that groove on the outside. It’s ugly (to me) and if I spend this much time fabricating a tool I’d like it to look as professional as possible. Now does that change the functionality? Not at all, so if you can look at it and be good with it, more power to you! I just like a clean look, and that was my goal. Cheers! 💪🏻😁
I agree with you, House. I have a machine shop in my garage. Make it look good or be a hack that doesn’t have the tools or knowledge. I watch all the YT Mach and Fab video’s. There are answers here, just look for them.
you should check out fireball tool video on this very subject. especially if you are doing this very often. He shows to make a simple tool using a piece of high speed tool steel and a little plug you draw through the tubing of any length with a piece of all thread that shaves it rite out in one motion. If you just have little short pieces and you only have to do it once grinding them out is easy like you show it. But if you are making these its for folks you should check it out. After you build the simple tool you can strip that weld in less than 30 seconds using a impact to drive it through.
I am glad it's possible to skip through YT vids, I cannot believe someone made a 12 minute video about bekt sanding the inside of some tube. What an insane waste of time. It must take this bloke an hour and a half to watch an hour long video.
I thank you for your channel. We both have been vaccinated with a Victrola Needle...Long Play. That's what Dad said about me, about 6 decades ago...but we get it said. I like your content, sir. I, to, am a tool designer. Did it for 50 years. Am now retired. (If you have a long section to do, fit a piece of High Carbon Tool Steel in the end of a section of tubing, by cutting a "V" on one side of the end of a piece of square tubing and a square spot for your tool steel to lay into. Wrap it with a wet rag, and reach thru the "V" and weld the back end of that tool steel. Then shove it thru your square tubing. It will cut out the weld seem. (you can get it in 1/4" square or 1/4" x 1/2" flat, and many other sizes for metal lathes and shapers at Machinist Supply Stores..It is lots easier to cut it out like this than sanding it out like you're doing it. The nice thing about it, you can re-grind the cutting tool multiple times. Like the old saying, "TRY IT, YOU'LL LIKE IT!" ) I like to watch other folks doing their thing. I subbed to your channel, sir. Keep pumping out videos. Thanks again. Bill, from Tn. 🇺🇸
If the heavy wall thickness in not critical you can buy 12 gage perforated or solid wall Telespar; no weld seam to remove. The fit tolerance is great and the tubing cross section range is 1.5" to 2.5" inceasing by 1/4 inch. per increment with the same great fit between the inner and outer tube. Some sizes are available in heavier 10 gage tubing as well.
If the piece is 15 inches or shorter you just can turn the piece around and grind from the other side. If it’s longer than 15 inches the best thing to do would be to buy tube that does not have a weld seam or to look at Jason from fireball ools he made a device that can be pulled through a piece of tubing and it removes the seam.I
Question Sir: What is the plunge depth of the pneumatic tool ? As in how far will it go into the tube before it bottoms out? I need 10” deep on my project and it looks like the pneumatic version will plunge deeper than the electric although I would opt for the electric just because of price and the fact you don’t have to have a compressor everywhere you need to use it.
The common belt size is 1/2" wide by 18" long, so the reach will be a couple of inches less than 9 inches (half the belt length). And the tool is a belt sander, not a "file".
I guess the dimensions of the tube steel could vary a bit, perhaps they differ here in Canada, cuz after removing my weld seams I had to sand my 1.5" tubes for a very long time in order to fit them inside 2" ones. And that after removing mill scale everywhere. Good thing I have a trusty supplier of Elbow Grease!
I, too, had difficulty with the steel ID sizes. The first attempt had an offset weld that changed the radius of one corner. My second attempt had the weld centered on one side, but one radius was still different. I had to sand the 1 1/2 to fit, but that is called fabricating and I was okay with that.
Make a clamp for a piece of toolsteel and weld it to a smaller peice of rhs that fits already. Drive it through and it will do longer peices. I've done a piece of 75mm x 75mm 3meters long... works like a champ. Takes a bit to make the holder but you always have it once made .
Jason at the Fireball Tools channel has a cool way of removing weld seams on square section steel, but it only has that purpose. The powerfile can be used in a myriad of different ways. 🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
This is a problem I needed to solve and was already Amazon looking at that finger sander! Thank you for the confirmation. Oh and the great scale removal tip!
This is great but I'm thinking - wouldn't be easier to grind a groove in the piece I want to insert in, so the weld seem would not matter? Perhaps just using an angle grinder?
So how does this little sanding machine u use work on longer square tubing my bro?? This small sander won't reach all the way on a piece of tube steel that is say more than 20" in length. Hoe do we get around that my bro? I've only begun working with steel, metalwork for the 1st time since I was 13 yrs of age in metalwork class in secondary school. LOL. I'm 51 yrs of age this year bro.. I love the belt grinder u built. I was thinking of buying a set of the wheels to build my own from Vevor. They're relatively cheap at under 100 euros but I don't know if that's very expensive at all due to my lack of knowledge in this field atm. I'm learning fast though. I began woodworking about 12-18 months ago and kitted out my own small workshop but I'm progressed into metalworking too now and I'm actually enjoying it again. I've bought a couple of welders with all the gear too. ATM I'm weary of welding in my woodwork shop bcos of fires so I will be hopefully clearing a shed in my back yard for the welding part. I only found ur channel a couple od days ago bro. I'm sub'd now. I have a question for u if u don't mind me asking.. Q. Why is welding and metalwork and woodwork such big business on YT these days?? It's crazy to see how many ppl are making videos on this subject matter now. Best of luck withur business my friend. I wish u every success too. Take care man and salute from Dublin, IRE.
@@HouseMadeUS me too, but apparently it's hard to get. I'm sure that, like you, they're always asking themselves: what is the point of saturation in my market, and trying not to get caught with more and upgraded equipment that enables them to make 1.5 times the volume that the market will support. And that results in a perpetual state of "out of stock." I was glad to see that your kits were in stock last week when I made a buying decision. I'm excited to build the Gen 4 and learn a bit of MIG while I'm at it. I've got the multi-process Vulcan and excited to make my first real step from wood to metal. Screw it, I'm gonna do it.
I really like pneumatic tools too. I'm not even certain why. But you need a good set up and work space and for me they can lack convenience due to my cheap noisy compressor. The tool you are using is not a file. It requires sandpaper belts. Files do not need abrasive consumables such as sandpaper. It's a belt sander, specifically a finger-sander. The first time I saw a finger sander I laughed. I thought it looked like a silly tool and surely wouldn't have many practical uses. I ended up needing one for a specific job so purchased one to fit the batteries i use. Turns out I was wrong. They're a great little tool even a cheap one. I use it for all kinds of things I wouldn't have considered and find it very convenient. It fits in my toolbox neatly beside my multitool and their shapes compliment and protect eachother.
When the steel mill makes the tubing, it is first round and welded then the mill runes it through roller dyes that square it up. The mill doesn't not pay attention to where the weld is when they run it through the dyes so the weld can be anywhere on the side of the tubing. I bought some 2x2 1/4 wall that had the weld in the corner it was great I didn't have to do any weld grinding on that tube.
Obviously 1½"x1½" tubular steel only slides into 2"x2" tubular steel if the outer tube has ¼" walls (the important wall size wasn't mentioned in the general statement starting @1:42), and other size combinations will also work as long as the outer tube nominal size minus twice the wall thickness equals the inner tube nominal size, and the corner bend radii are compatible (small enough on the outer, large enough on the inner).
That works for short parts, but I have a much longer part and had to clear it out. Someone made a video where he TIG welded a special rod that make a very hard edge, he then put a cutting edge on that hardened edge and pressed it thru the tube. Worked great. I have some projects using 1/2" thin walled sq tube and I have to make a tool to clean up the inside after welding. I'm going to grind down the smaller rod and add hard sharp edge to that'll cut out the welds.
Yeah, I was thinking this too. Maybe saw the same video. I remember the guy adding a piece of hardened steel to an insert, and then drawing it through the larger hollow section using a long threaded rod.
Millscale is iron oxide magnetite that forms at high temperature. It also form on welds and should be removed before painting. You could also fasten a cutting bit on the end of an inside tube and tap it through the outer tube. Weld a cap on the end and screw on a triangular machine tool bit. Use it to plane out the weld on longer lengths.
How would you remove the seam in a piece of tube more than 2 feet long? Anyone can remove the seam from a short piece, I was hoping to see a slick method for removing the seam from a long piece. And please don't say, now why would you need to do something that long, I just do.
I put a hard edge on the inside tube with a tig a old drill bit as filler. Ground it so that edge stuck out slightly. Then I pressed the inner through the outer. Worked like a chisel and you can use it over and over.
With such short pieces of tubes, you can use a flat or half-round file, eh? The question is, how to clear those weld seams in long pieces, say in excess of a meter (40"+)?
For years I’ve used chisels and hammer, making tube hitches now you shown easier way get the seam out !!! I ordered immediately and sanding belt !! Thank you so much for sharing this solution !!! I’m anxious get the tool to try out !!
Update!!! I got the tool this morning, finally got the tubes fixed up !! Thank you !! For sharing!! It’s darn well worth it!!
You should put clamp screws in diagonally - that eliminates all play, whereas a screw perpendicular to one face of the tube allows play parallel to that face. You also get more stock for the threads.
I like perpendulous and you can just weld a nut on there if you want more threads. Go back to your drawing board, Poindexter.
I have been a fabricator for nearly 40 years
Brian, Up here in Canada we say screw it and buy seamless tube steel
Why deal with seams when it’s not necessary
Nice products you manufacture none the less
I love this video! I learned this exact same thing, in a machine shop as well.. for the exact same reasons. I had almost let the information go to the wayside and forgot about this wonderful explanation and tips. Thanks!
Thank you so much!! 🙏🏼
Try tapping your set knob on the corner instead of on the flat. That wedges the opposite corner into the V and holds it much more securely for a given tightness.
Nice. Cheers
I’ll give that a shot. Thank you!!
great tip!
Great Idea!
What a great idea!!
I spent many hours with sand paper on a 1x1 piece of wood with my first grinder build. After watching you use this tool on your videos, I ran out and bought the electric version. Thanks for sharing this, Brian! Good to see you posting, again, brother.
Thanks Jon! What version did you get? I saw there were a few up on Amazon.
Alternative for long lengths is grind a groove on the outside of the inner tube. Or 4 if you need to rotate it. Good for situations where the tube is too long to grind out.
Thanks, I will try this for my situation
@@i_i8924 works better for thicker tubes walls than thin. So just keep in mind if it's going to cause strength issues
Well said, that sander he showed is great, but it only goes so deep.
@@douganderson7002 I've seen that video. It's a good method but a lot of mucking around if it's a once off or only a really small job. If you are doing things regularly which need it 100% a better method.
@@aerialrescuesolutions3277 That is what she said!
Picked up the electric 5 amp Chicago electric band file from harbor freight for removing the seam in my grinder build. The pipes are 9” long and that’s about the longest pipe it can remove the weld from. But it was fantastic. Took about 5 minutes per 9” pipe. Which there was two of. For 30-40$ it’s a great tool. You saved me a lot of time trying to file or chisel it out with the bandfile suggestion!
I’m using 2x2 1/4 wall tube and 1.5” solid bar stock for the arms
Awesome Justin thanks for letting me know. It is a great little tool to keep around. 🙌🏻
Have you looked at plans for those who do not weld & use taps for mounting the package together?
We’ve ran into this problem before building machinery. The dynafile is one way to remove the weld seam on short pieces. Then you have the problem of pieces that are too long to be able to remove the weld. In those cases we have resorted to taking the mating piece of tubing, placing it in a mill, and milling a V groove in it, so that the groove clears the weld. This allows the pieces to slide back-and-forth without removing the weld.
Nice if you have a milling machine.
@@glenpaul3606 yes, a milling machine is the easiest way, but you can also draw a line and use an angle grinder to cut a groove in the part. It’s not ideal, but it can be done.
So I’ve got a trailer tongue jack , the inner telescopic leg, I’ve got a drop down leg that fits inside. But the ol weld seam, I was able to hit it as far as I can, but the last 2”. What do you do when it’s too deep, and your material is too thin to put a groove?
Check out the Seams Impossible tool from Greg's Garage.
I am a machine designer professionally and a hobbyist metalworker. It might behoove you to have a broach made up to shave out the inside of the outer tube since you are producing the kits in quantities. Remove the mill scale first then put the broach through to remove the weld flash/seam.
After taking off the mill scale, you wouldn't want to spray paint the tubing so, how do you keep the metal from rusting?
What type of vinegar works best for you?
Thanks
Standard household vinegar.
What drill press is that ? I'm going to get one and like the one you have
It's an old craftsman drill press, I did just replace it with a Buck Tools drill press which I really like.
I think it's the ending comment is why I subscribed to your Channel to start with thanks for posting man
Thank you! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Hay bud Iv got a set up were i use a carbide cutter fabricated on end of tube works great beats grinding lol
I’ve seen that. Really cool tool.
I made a inverted fork spring compressor with square tube steel (picked up at the local scrap yeard) years ago using this same method, smaller square tube inside a larger telescopic, very large 5/8" threaded rod(also got at the scrap yard), cheap small c-clamps I took apart, and removed the cup feet off of, to hold on either side of the inner fork spring, some cutting & welding and about $20 later I had a $200 heavy duty fork press, better than the $200 ones.
I even welded another short piece of square tube steel to the back side of the longest outer tube so I could clamp it in my bench vise for a very nice vertical hands free workstation.
The one thing I wish I would have tried was vinegar to remove all the milscale back then, I used several other long drawn out painstaking methods and once it was done painted it all with a durable black trailer paint.
That's great for tubes up to about a foot (coming in from both ends)!
But what do you do if your tube is longer than 2x the sander's length?
How do you address the weld seam in a piece of tubing that is six feet long? The only way I have found is create a groove in piece that slides into the larger tubing that allows the weld seam to ride in the groove. Good video.
Yeah with something that long the groove is going to be the way.
Thank you for sharing your ideas and know how , I need to get one of this belt grinder ! Which is better , the air assist or electrical type ? Thanks again.
The vinegar tip is nice, I use muriatic acid because I only wait a couple of minutes total time. I reuse it over and over.
That can work, but make everything in my shop near it flash rust
How do you work your magic with longer pieces of tubing?
Look up Greg's Garage and his Seams impossible tool.
I have a bucket truck 🛻 and my bucket extends past the back of the truck. 🛻 I recently hit a parked car because of the blind spots…. 🤔👀
Tired of this problem and I want to fix it, I’m thinking 🤔 of mounting my reverse camera on a telescoping tube with a linear actuator, so when I put it in reverse and hit a switch in the cabin, the camera will extend out to the edge of the bucket so I can see what’s behind there.
My only thought is if it gets damaged I want to design a failure point in it so it snaps instead of damaging the actuator or tube.
Thinking a nylon attachment between the two.
Do you know if they make square tubing but in abs, nylon or plastic 🤔
+1 on the air belt sander. I got mine grind out spot welds in panels. Now I use it to flatten welds when needed and chamfer, debur edges..many uses. Now I will try on ERW sq tube next time
This should be interesting. I’ve spent decades purchasing flash out tubing. Lol
Definitely
So cool! Was just trying to find a way to make a cheap easy way to build a telescoping table base.
Glad it helped!! 💪🏻😁
So what do you do if your tubes are longer than you can reach with your grinder ?
I weld a piece of tool steel to a block of steel and build a threaded rod to force it through the the tube
Grind a groove in the outer wall of the inside piece lol.
@@rong4189 thats a feature!
Repost here ya make a slug about 6" long insert a pneumatic die grinder valve on. Make the carbide proud of the tubing. Bevel the front end a bit and then turn it on and shove it in like a skewer snake
Your super duper screwed
Ever considered making a plug with a fitted tool steel cutter that you could either hammer through or draw through the pipe ?
How do you handle tube that's more than twice as long as your power file? Or, do you never work with anything that long?
Have you ever heard of flash out tubing? It's available from any good steel service center. The weld "flash" is already removed to accomplish what your doing.
Might be the same thing by a different name, but I've used "mechanical tubing" and "seamless tubing" before. I didn't order the material, I was just good at following blueprints and allowable tolerances.
More expensive and not always available. But yeah it exists
You’re
@6:36 "You gonna wanna get the good belts for this..." (1/2x18, 36 grit)... but what abrasive? By "good", did you mean ceramic? Or something else? Thanks!
BTW, I removed the seam using a drill with longer 1/4 or 3/8 inch (10mm) shaft, slotted on one end, and emerycloth wrapped through the slot. Hold it parallel to the surface but slight angle to the seam to grind away the seam.
This is awesome. I've had ideas for a height adjustable table/desk, but hadn't found a good/strong/cheap way to come up with the telescoping legs. Also for putting small winches in places that I need them temporarily. And other scenarios where I want something that gives me both positioning adjustability and has enough strength to reef on.
Nice video explanation. I've got both a pneumatic and cordless. What would you suggest trying to use for a seam that would be longer than you could reach even by working from both ends. I've tried several different manual approaches but they aren't exactly perfect and take forever.
How long of a tube are you working on?
Late to the game on this video, but do you sell fully assembled belt sanders?
We do not. We sell kits only. Thank you.
Die grinder with round file on an extension works really nice.
We have one of those too. @gregsgarage makes an awesome seams impossible tool.
Fine for short lengths.. What about something a foot long or more ?
Video is great but can I get a little help. Purchased. 2x2x 1/4 tubing and 1 1/2x1 1/2 x 3/16 tubing took it home excited, ground the seam flat and no luck. It was severally getting hung up on the corners . Though I might have got some off size metal. Went to a different shop bought the exact same sized and got the same result. Any advice?
The radius on the corners of the 3/16 is smaller than the radius on the 1/4” wall tube. I have found it is best to keep the wall thickness the same on both pieces of tubing for best results.
That works great for short pieces but what about longer pieces beyond the
reach of the air file ?
That’s awesome brother I went the old school way with a file and a case of beer 😂😂
Ahh yes to numb the pain.😂😂😂
Great video! But how do you remove the weld seam from a 6' length of tube steel???
It took you seven minutes to show the tool that you use. I don't need another second. Thank you very much.
Cool, thanks for watching! 👊🏻
I am in process of building three grinders. Looked at many different ways to remove the weld but like your video I settled on an air file. I have three different sizes but the 18 and 24 are the best for this project. I like 36 grit belts on this part. I have also tried the vinegar and it works well. I would advise that you look up a Norton Surface conditioning disc. This it a non woven silicon carbide disc that might be a little pricey at first glance but, it really works on removing paint, power coat and mill scale without clogging. One more thing that I had happen was drilling in to a weld. Snapped a bit right off. Should have gone a bit slower on the own feed. Getting really close now to assembly. Made my own version of the tracking device and looks like all will come together well. Thanks!
Nice video...Thanks for sharing. BTW, I built a grinder using the parts from your site and it turned out superb. Aside from my coffee brewer, it is my #2 go-to machine. Thank You!!!!
I use both daily as well!! Thank you for supporting my work! 💪🏻😁
I have used a die grinder air or electric 1/4" and an extended bur (6" extended) works great .Thanx for the tips!
thanks-thanks. Good tips and nice grade on the video. That vinegar and iron wateri once it's spent could be sold as a wood ager to make new wood look old. Also as a fabric dye and fixative.
Thanks for the tips! Good point.
Do you have a problem with maintaining the tolerance with paint? I'd assume with an unpainted surface that it would eventually rust. I'm looking for a solution for a piece that I plan to have outdoors, so rust is a much bigger concern.
Yes no paint can go on the arms. I use wax or oil to prevent corrosion
Might try cold bluing then add a lubricant like Boe-Shield.
Good tip about the vinegar as well as the power file.
how strong is the vinegar solution?
Standard household vinegar is 3-5%
What is the screw in bolt with plastic star handle at 2:08 called please?
I'm no expert so I may be using technically incorrect names but most stores call those hand bolts, knob bolts, hand screws, knob screws, hand knobs, there are also hand nuts and knob nuts, smaller ones are usually called thumb screws and thumb nuts.
Star knobs and lobe knobs is used both for bolts and nuts, nuts can be blind or through hole too. There are also wing screws and wing nuts.
Other practic model are the clamping levers also known as ratchet lever knobs, those can be used as a lever to turn the bolt but you can change the position of the lever without moving the bolt by pulling the lever up. Adjustable handles are usually just a lever with a bolt or threaded hole.
Eccentric or cam clamp levers are the type most commonly used on bicycle seats and wheels, but of course can be used for other purposes and can be also made of steel.
Can you discuss what you do to negated heat distortion when welding so you dont end up with curved parts
Search weld sequencing on google and youtube. Also clamp the pieces as hard as you can to minimize distortions
I just made a 2 x 72 and instead of grinding the weld out I ground a small { weld size] groove down the inner tube. All you need is a regular 4.5 in. grinder that most of us already own. The advantage is you are not restricted by the length of the tube. worked well for me.
That’s one way to get it done. My personal preference is to not see that groove on the outside. It’s ugly (to me) and if I spend this much time fabricating a tool I’d like it to look as professional as possible. Now does that change the functionality? Not at all, so if you can look at it and be good with it, more power to you! I just like a clean look, and that was my goal. Cheers! 💪🏻😁
I agree with you, House. I have a machine shop in my garage. Make it look good or be a hack that doesn’t have the tools or knowledge. I watch all the YT Mach and Fab video’s. There are answers here, just look for them.
Thanks man. I appreciate the kind words. It’s a personal preference but in my head makes a big difference.
Yeah na. That weakens it and makes it looks scruffy. Make a broach from lathe HSS. Easy to make ,does super long lengths to.
To derust use use Vineger then what did you use to neutralise it?
Baking soda in water or windex- dry with compressed air
Thank you VERY much
How do you remove the weld on tube that's longer than your sander?
ok, what about Long tubes where the grinder can't reach??
you should check out fireball tool video on this very subject. especially if you are doing this very often. He shows to make a simple tool using a piece of high speed tool steel and a little plug you draw through the tubing of any length with a piece of all thread that shaves it rite out in one motion. If you just have little short pieces and you only have to do it once grinding them out is easy like you show it. But if you are making these its for folks you should check it out. After you build the simple tool you can strip that weld in less than 30 seconds using a impact to drive it through.
I am glad it's possible to skip through YT vids, I cannot believe someone made a 12 minute video about bekt sanding the inside of some tube.
What an insane waste of time.
It must take this bloke an hour and a half to watch an hour long video.
I thank you for your channel. We both have been vaccinated with a Victrola Needle...Long Play. That's what Dad said about me, about 6 decades ago...but we get it said.
I like your content, sir. I, to, am a tool designer. Did it for 50 years. Am now retired. (If you have a long section to do, fit a piece of High Carbon Tool Steel in the end of a section of tubing, by cutting a "V" on one side of the end of a piece of square tubing and a square spot for your tool steel to lay into. Wrap it with a wet rag, and reach thru the "V" and weld the back end of that tool steel. Then shove it thru your square tubing. It will cut out the weld seem. (you can get it in 1/4" square or 1/4" x 1/2" flat, and many other sizes for metal lathes and shapers at Machinist Supply Stores..It is lots easier to cut it out like this than sanding it out like you're doing it. The nice thing about it, you can re-grind the cutting tool multiple times. Like the old saying, "TRY IT, YOU'LL LIKE IT!" ) I like to watch other folks doing their thing. I subbed to your channel, sir. Keep pumping out videos. Thanks again.
Bill, from Tn. 🇺🇸
It would be great to see how that is done. Trying to picture it in my mind.
“Screw it, let’s do it” catch phrase complete with graphic. I bet Bruce Willis is envious...
what if you have a long piece of tubing? like 3ft
FYI that acid -scale mix diluted should make an excellent weed killer- fertilizer for lawns.
If the heavy wall thickness in not critical you can buy 12 gage perforated or solid wall Telespar; no weld seam to remove. The fit tolerance is great and the tubing cross section range is 1.5" to 2.5" inceasing by 1/4 inch. per increment with the same great fit between the inner and outer tube. Some sizes are available in heavier 10 gage tubing as well.
That's great on short pieces. But what do you do when the dynafile is to short to get into a 1' piece or longer?
If the piece is 15 inches or shorter you just can turn the piece around and grind from the other side. If it’s longer than 15 inches the best thing to do would be to buy tube that does not have a weld seam or to look at Jason from fireball ools he made a device that can be pulled through a piece of tubing and it removes the seam.I
Question Sir:
What is the plunge depth of the pneumatic tool ?
As in how far will it go into the tube before it bottoms out?
I need 10” deep on my project and it looks like the pneumatic version will plunge deeper than the electric although I would opt for the electric just because of price and the fact you don’t have to have a compressor everywhere you need to use it.
The common belt size is 1/2" wide by 18" long, so the reach will be a couple of inches less than 9 inches (half the belt length).
And the tool is a belt sander, not a "file".
I guess the dimensions of the tube steel could vary a bit, perhaps they differ here in Canada, cuz after removing my weld seams I had to sand my 1.5" tubes for a very long time in order to fit them inside 2" ones. And that after removing mill scale everywhere. Good thing I have a trusty supplier of Elbow Grease!
I, too, had difficulty with the steel ID sizes. The first attempt had an offset weld that changed the radius of one corner. My second attempt had the weld centered on one side, but one radius was still different. I had to sand the 1 1/2 to fit, but that is called fabricating and I was okay with that.
Gotta love that elbow grease. You definitely must be running low after building the Revolution by hand!! Cheers brotha!! 💪🏻😁
Wayne, I have done that same thing. Fixed it up the same way. Totally fine with it and your right, it’s called fabricating for a reason! 💪🏻😁
I made a small motorcycle frame holder to fit my auto lift with telescoping square tube that clamps the frame luv it easier to work on now
I used to widen van axles Fiat Ducato, etc has a square axle, used to cut the axles in half and sleeve them to length
i use a peas of tool steel to cut of the weld set in a block of steel & a hydralike press to cut it out .
How would you remove the seam from a tube that is 18-24" long?
Go watch fireballtools video on removing the weld seem it's a bit of a process but if you need to do multiple it's a good idea
Yeah watch Jason’s vid on his special tool for that. This file won’t do the job.
@@HouseMadeUS Thanks
@@carterbaldinelli4592 Thanks
Make a clamp for a piece of toolsteel and weld it to a smaller peice of rhs that fits already. Drive it through and it will do longer peices. I've done a piece of 75mm x 75mm 3meters long... works like a champ. Takes a bit to make the holder but you always have it once made .
Can’t do it for long pipe 2 ft or more
Very nice video. Very helpful and definitely useful video. Fab on. Weld on. Keep making. God bless.
⚡️⚡️⚡️ Thank you Jared! ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Jason at the Fireball Tools channel has a cool way of removing weld seams on square section steel, but it only has that purpose. The powerfile can be used in a myriad of different ways.
🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
For sure. If you do a lot of that type of thing that tool makes sense. I really like my power file and this was a great way to show off its magic! 😁
@@HouseMadeUS
It makes a great motorcycle noise, too!
🏍 💨
That guy fireball tool is overkill no one has time to make that tool he used to do this
This is a problem I needed to solve and was already Amazon looking at that finger sander! Thank you for the confirmation. Oh and the great scale removal tip!
This is great but I'm thinking - wouldn't be easier to grind a groove in the piece I want to insert in, so the weld seem would not matter? Perhaps just using an angle grinder?
Yeah some people do this, I personally don't like the way it looks. To each their own for sure. Get it done however you can! Thanks George.
So how does this little sanding machine u use work on longer square tubing my bro?? This small sander won't reach all the way on a piece of tube steel that is say more than 20" in length. Hoe do we get around that my bro? I've only begun working with steel, metalwork for the 1st time since I was 13 yrs of age in metalwork class in secondary school. LOL. I'm 51 yrs of age this year bro..
I love the belt grinder u built. I was thinking of buying a set of the wheels to build my own from Vevor. They're relatively cheap at under 100 euros but I don't know if that's very expensive at all due to my lack of knowledge in this field atm. I'm learning fast though.
I began woodworking about 12-18 months ago and kitted out my own small workshop but I'm progressed into metalworking too now and I'm actually enjoying it again. I've bought a couple of welders with all the gear too. ATM I'm weary of welding in my woodwork shop bcos of fires so I will be hopefully clearing a shed in my back yard for the welding part.
I only found ur channel a couple od days ago bro. I'm sub'd now.
I have a question for u if u don't mind me asking..
Q. Why is welding and metalwork and woodwork such big business on YT these days?? It's crazy to see how many ppl are making videos on this subject matter now.
Best of luck withur business my friend. I wish u every success too. Take care man and salute from Dublin, IRE.
Have you seen the "Seams Impossible" rig from Greg's Garage? Elegant solution.
I have and it’s awesome. I’ve spoken to Greg about it and hopefully I can get my hands on one.
@@HouseMadeUS me too, but apparently it's hard to get. I'm sure that, like you, they're always asking themselves: what is the point of saturation in my market, and trying not to get caught with more and upgraded equipment that enables them to make 1.5 times the volume that the market will support. And that results in a perpetual state of "out of stock." I was glad to see that your kits were in stock last week when I made a buying decision. I'm excited to build the Gen 4 and learn a bit of MIG while I'm at it. I've got the multi-process Vulcan and excited to make my first real step from wood to metal. Screw it, I'm gonna do it.
yes git on with IT
Wonderful, informative videos you make and you're a journeyman craftsman. Only minor critique from me is to cut the video length in half.
I really like pneumatic tools too. I'm not even certain why. But you need a good set up and work space and for me they can lack convenience due to my cheap noisy compressor. The tool you are using is not a file. It requires sandpaper belts. Files do not need abrasive consumables such as sandpaper. It's a belt sander, specifically a finger-sander. The first time I saw a finger sander I laughed. I thought it looked like a silly tool and surely wouldn't have many practical uses. I ended up needing one for a specific job so purchased one to fit the batteries i use. Turns out I was wrong. They're a great little tool even a cheap one. I use it for all kinds of things I wouldn't have considered and find it very convenient. It fits in my toolbox neatly beside my multitool and their shapes compliment and protect eachother.
When the steel mill makes the tubing, it is first round and welded then the mill runes it through roller dyes that square it up. The mill doesn't not pay attention to where the weld is when they run it through the dyes so the weld can be anywhere on the side of the tubing. I bought some 2x2 1/4 wall that had the weld in the corner it was great I didn't have to do any weld grinding on that tube.
You say the mill doesn't NOT pay attention to where the weld is. Why do they pay attention to where the weld is? For strength?
30sec of information in over 12min. Ouch, trying to work the YT algorithm gets painful.
Maybe I'm tripping, but your camera/lighting setup looks great, and seems to have had some changes.
Thanks man. Stepped up to 4K recently. I really like it. I appreciate you noticing. I put a lot of work into that. 💪🏻😁
That's kool on short pieces but about a six foot piece inside another six foot tube ?
Obviously 1½"x1½" tubular steel only slides into 2"x2" tubular steel if the outer tube has ¼" walls (the important wall size wasn't mentioned in the general statement starting @1:42), and other size combinations will also work as long as the outer tube nominal size minus twice the wall thickness equals the inner tube nominal size, and the corner bend radii are compatible (small enough on the outer, large enough on the inner).
What do I do if my tube is longer than 18"?🤷♂️
They make a longer version of this sander. 24" actually. Enjoy.
Couldn’t you just cut a small groove down the length of the OD of the smaller stock to give clearance for the weld?
Sure. But the seams can wander so the groove would have to accommodate
That works for short parts, but I have a much longer part and had to clear it out. Someone made a video where he TIG welded a special rod that make a very hard edge, he then put a cutting edge on that hardened edge and pressed it thru the tube. Worked great. I have some projects using 1/2" thin walled sq tube and I have to make a tool to clean up the inside after welding. I'm going to grind down the smaller rod and add hard sharp edge to that'll cut out the welds.
Yeah, I was thinking this too. Maybe saw the same video. I remember the guy adding a piece of hardened steel to an insert, and then drawing it through the larger hollow section using a long threaded rod.
Cut a groove in the other part much easier.
Have you got a link to that video?
@@seeharvester th-cam.com/video/3jr4Capx8XI/w-d-xo.html
@@seeharvester Fireball Tool tips to remove weld from tube
Millscale is iron oxide magnetite that forms at high temperature. It also form on welds and should be removed before painting. You could also fasten a cutting bit on the end of an inside tube and tap it through the outer tube. Weld a cap on the end and screw on a triangular machine tool bit. Use it to plane out the weld on longer lengths.
I like the triangle idea. We have a flat one now and it stretches things a bit
I tried that and works great for longer tubes, also it makes less noise and dirt. I found that a little lubrication with light oil helps a lot.
So simple but so important thanks for the info!
Thank you Jeff! 🙏🏼
Thanks for the informative video....What is the ID of the receiver and the OD of the secondary tooling arm?
Have you ever had to remove the seam from a piece that is longer than 2 times the reach of that tool?
How would you remove the seam in a piece of tube more than 2 feet long? Anyone can remove the seam from a short piece, I was hoping to see a slick method for removing the seam from a long piece. And please don't say, now why would you need to do something that long, I just do.
So what do you do if you need to clean the weld out of a tube more than twice as long as your sander? Inquiring minds want to know.
Here's one option for removing the weld from tubing of virtually any size and length:
th-cam.com/video/ozSE7Wrdb1o/w-d-xo.html
Well that’s 12mins I’ll never get back. I thought we were going to see some new tooling being made to make life easier…. Guess not
12 minutes just to tell me to buy a finger sander!
Great Video!
I put a hard edge on the inside tube with a tig a old drill bit as filler. Ground it so that edge stuck out slightly. Then I pressed the inner through the outer. Worked like a chisel and you can use it over and over.
Thats a nice tip, using an old drill in the tig, thanks dude.
@@JavierChiappa make sure you do 2 passes with the drill bit filler. First pass mixes with the base metal and isn’t as hard.
Why not use seamless tube?
With such short pieces of tubes, you can use a flat or half-round file, eh? The question is, how to clear those weld seams in long pieces, say in excess of a meter (40"+)?
Look up the Seams impossible tool from Greg's garage.