Thanks for an excellent and very informative video. I went 0-for-2 when attempting the replacement of my Coyote's spark plugs, so I just ordered 4 new clips directly from Ballenger Motorsports. I may end up buying 4 more before I'm finished! The brittleness of the original clips over time is just sad.
Excellent tip/technique. Very glad I didn’t have to hack the harness to replace a plug. Beware some models only use two of the three pins. I carefully packed the unused middle wire hole with RTV to keep it weather proof!
Dude, this technique saved my butt. I was changing spark plugs, and one of the locking clips broke. I tried this technique you posted, and it worked awesome. Just as a note, the coil wire is slightly different between the 3.5 Ecoboost, and the 5.0. So make sure you get the right connector. I got mine from Rock Auto.
@@Dhi-fe5eu Look under vehicle make/model, then Electrical Connector, then Ignition coil connector. It might be late for you, but this might help someone else.
Awesome video and explanation, thank you. I had my valve covers changed and because these fittings became so brittle over time that portions of each connector crumbled as the mechanic removed them from the connectors. I switched this one because both the initial lock and the red lock were broken and the coil wire was simply slid over the coil extension with nothing to keep it there. It resulted in a code. That's why I'm here. Lol. It helped me to first buy the connector and take it apart to see how it works and releases. I took out the coil to examine how these two parts fit together and come apart. That little bit of homework, and this video made it easier once under the hood. You're going to reuse the silicone seal and back black cap on the rear of the fitting. There is little need for the ones on the new fitting as you will use the existing ones if not broken. I began by releasing the white interior lock shown here followed by breaking the two rear side grey tabs on the old fitting which holds the rear black cap to the grey fitting. It made this process easier as I'll explain. Here's what I did. Once the black cap is released your next task is to release the wires from the inside. Because the wires are likely taped together, on my 2015 Lincoln Navigator you don't have enough room to pull them out one at a time to install them into the new housing. However, if you get all 3 started you can pull-out all 3 out the back together which makes reinstalling them much easier. How to release the wires from the inside: I needed a light, cheater reading glasses to see better, a wood barbeque skewer (I'll explain) and a tiny probe to release the interior wire stops. I snipped the tip of the wood skewer to make the end a little more blunt. I placed the long skewer between my teeth, placed the blunt end slightly into one of the female wire connectors inside the connector (being careful not to damage or change the metal opening), applied a slight downward pressure with the skewer in my mouth while inserting the small probe inside the fitting to release the wire past the stop tab. I repeated the process from left to right: L Brown, C Green and R Purple wires. Once they're all released you can gently pull all 3 wires out the back of the old connector along with the old black cap and silicone seal still in place. To install the wires (they will still be in order because they're taped) inside the new fitting until you hear or feel all 3 clicks, push the black cap and silicone seal together into the rear until it locks. Finally, install the white locking cap inside until it clicks in. Snap it on the coil, lock it with the red tab, start and go. Note: the one I changed may have been the easiest (#4 front right coil) so the others may be more tedious, but the process in the same. I imagine that you could break the wire locking tabs too to make removing the wires easy as well. That would eliminate the need for the skewer. Again, thank you for the the visual aid.
Thanks for this video, I was changing out my spark plugs, and because it’s a bit cold out, my red clip broke off, and the grey housing cracked!🤦🏻♂️ I ordered new connectors, but the wires are all black, and I really didn’t want to cut the wires, your video just helped me keep it factory looking 🙏🏼👍🏼 Thank you!!!!
Got 236k on my 2013 5.0. Changed my plugs last week and definitely need new coils and wires. 3-4 of the plugs don't go all the way on the coils good anymore. Had to break the red locking tabs off a few years ago when I changed the plugs.
The connector linked will not work on 3.5L ecoboost. One channel on the connector is offset on the ecoboost. However still a very helpful video, got me pointed in the right direction, thank you.
Thank you for this great video. A word of advise though..... make sure all the tabs are on the inside of the new connector housing. I ordered 3 and 2 had the outside connectors missing.
Changed my plugs on my used 2011 5.0 with almost 150k miles.I broke 4 of them getting them off, and another getting it back on somehow. Super brittle plastic after so many years and heat cycles. I decided just to wrap a zip tie up and around the whole apparatus, i will probably do this fix next time it needs plugs though.
I know this is ancient but this is the same connector as the power steering. Obviously not the power connection but the other one. I’m watching your video the fix mine.
I broke two of those while changing spark plugs, then a “check charging system” alert shown up. Does this situation have anything to do with a broken connectors?
Ok soooo um… before I watched your video I had two of the 3 wires out, and set in the new housing but not “snapped in” Of course the 3rd one got STUCK! I had to pull really hard and pulled aallll THREE OUT 😢I’m not sure if I mixed up the wires. I panicked and tried to remember what was where….. I tried to peak at the other set of wires BUT they are all different set of colors! Please help
Do you think this problem is enough to throw a code. I got the code and while investigating found 2 of these connectors with broken retaining tabs. Despite that, the connectors seem to be firmly connected to the coil.
What code is being thrown? It might be a clue to something going on, but if you've got them pushed on firmly and it's firing on all cylinders, I doubt the little plastic piece alone is throwing a code.
Awesome video, just have the same incident happened to me as well. Caleb, you think you can provide a part number or any other method so i can place an order in Amazon. I tried look for them clips but i can't find them. I have a 2014 f150 5.0.
Awesome! Just saved a bunch of headache for me. I broke three of the clips yesterday, new ones just arrived. Thanks!!!
Thanks for an excellent and very informative video. I went 0-for-2 when attempting the replacement of my Coyote's spark plugs, so I just ordered 4 new clips directly from Ballenger Motorsports. I may end up buying 4 more before I'm finished! The brittleness of the original clips over time is just sad.
Excellent tip/technique. Very glad I didn’t have to hack the harness to replace a plug. Beware some models only use two of the three pins. I carefully packed the unused middle wire hole with RTV to keep it weather proof!
Dude, this technique saved my butt. I was changing spark plugs, and one of the locking clips broke. I tried this technique you posted, and it worked awesome. Just as a note, the coil wire is slightly different between the 3.5 Ecoboost, and the 5.0. So make sure you get the right connector. I got mine from Rock Auto.
Could you tell me what that piece is called. Unable to find it n Rock auto and Amazon.
@@Dhi-fe5eu Look under vehicle make/model, then Electrical Connector, then Ignition coil connector. It might be late for you, but this might help someone else.
Awesome video and explanation, thank you.
I had my valve covers changed and because these fittings became so brittle over time that portions of each connector crumbled as the mechanic removed them from the connectors. I switched this one because both the initial lock and the red lock were broken and the coil wire was simply slid over the coil extension with nothing to keep it there. It resulted in a code. That's why I'm here. Lol.
It helped me to first buy the connector and take it apart to see how it works and releases. I took out the coil to examine how these two parts fit together and come apart. That little bit of homework, and this video made it easier once under the hood.
You're going to reuse the silicone seal and back black cap on the rear of the fitting. There is little need for the ones on the new fitting as you will use the existing ones if not broken. I began by releasing the white interior lock shown here followed by breaking the two rear side grey tabs on the old fitting which holds the rear black cap to the grey fitting. It made this process easier as I'll explain.
Here's what I did.
Once the black cap is released your next task is to release the wires from the inside. Because the wires are likely taped together, on my 2015 Lincoln Navigator you don't have enough room to pull them out one at a time to install them into the new housing. However, if you get all 3 started you can pull-out all 3 out the back together which makes reinstalling them much easier.
How to release the wires from the inside: I needed a light, cheater reading glasses to see better, a wood barbeque skewer (I'll explain) and a tiny probe to release the interior wire stops. I snipped the tip of the wood skewer to make the end a little more blunt. I placed the long skewer between my teeth, placed the blunt end slightly into one of the female wire connectors inside the connector (being careful not to damage or change the metal opening), applied a slight downward pressure with the skewer in my mouth while inserting the small probe inside the fitting to release the wire past the stop tab. I repeated the process from left to right: L Brown, C Green and R Purple wires. Once they're all released you can gently pull all 3 wires out the back of the old connector along with the old black cap and silicone seal still in place. To install the wires (they will still be in order because they're taped) inside the new fitting until you hear or feel all 3 clicks, push the black cap and silicone seal together into the rear until it locks. Finally, install the white locking cap inside until it clicks in. Snap it on the coil, lock it with the red tab, start and go.
Note: the one I changed may have been the easiest (#4 front right coil) so the others may be more tedious, but the process in the same. I imagine that you could break the wire locking tabs too to make removing the wires easy as well. That would eliminate the need for the skewer.
Again, thank you for the the visual aid.
Hi. Same veh here. Did u do the valve cover yourself?
Thanks for this video, I was changing out my spark plugs, and because it’s a bit cold out, my red clip broke off, and the grey housing cracked!🤦🏻♂️ I ordered new connectors, but the wires are all black, and I really didn’t want to cut the wires, your video just helped me keep it factory looking 🙏🏼👍🏼 Thank you!!!!
Fantastic video. Spoke well solved a major problem for us guys who use plastic ties to fix it. Spoke very clearly.
Thank you for this. Broke 3 of mine this past weekend and now know I can easily replace.
Got 236k on my 2013 5.0. Changed my plugs last week and definitely need new coils and wires. 3-4 of the plugs don't go all the way on the coils good anymore. Had to break the red locking tabs off a few years ago when I changed the plugs.
I was going to use the shrink wrap/solder butt connectors instead of the crimp connectors, but found this and it was so easy!
Thanks man you just saved me some money I just did my spark plugs and snapped one of them
The connector linked will not work on 3.5L ecoboost. One channel on the connector is offset on the ecoboost. However still a very helpful video, got me pointed in the right direction, thank you.
Ahh so sorry thanks for sharing this
Thank you so much! This worked for me on 2012 3.5L. Was coil #6 and was dreading splicing since there was little to no slack in the wiring.
You're AWESOME - found similar connecters for my 2013 F-150 Eco and didn't want to cut any cables
Can you post a link to the part you used ?
@@calebb120 sir thanks for your help
Can you tell me how to order the rigth connectors I have a 2013f150 5.0
Swapped out 4 spark plugs and 2 clips broke off. My truck is a 2015 with original spark plugs so they are nasty. Thanks.
Thanks for the link to the plugs...they're hella expensive at Ford.👍
Thanks for this video. Broke 3 over time on our 2014 F-150 Eco and this vid helped me replace them.
Great video! Saved a lot of headache! Better than splicing in a new one
Thank you for this great video. A word of advise though..... make sure all the tabs are on the inside of the new connector housing. I ordered 3 and 2 had the outside connectors missing.
You’re awesome man. I broke mine 2 days ago so I’m definitely gonna be doing this
Changed my plugs on my used 2011 5.0 with almost 150k miles.I broke 4 of them getting them off, and another getting it back on somehow. Super brittle plastic after so many years and heat cycles. I decided just to wrap a zip tie up and around the whole apparatus, i will probably do this fix next time it needs plugs though.
Weekend project. Thank you!
I know this is ancient but this is the same connector as the power steering. Obviously not the power connection but the other one. I’m watching your video the fix mine.
Thank you, I broke 7 out of the 8 🙃
Dang work truck lol
Thank you Caleb, just placed my order thank you for your quick respond.
You got a like and subscribe for this video it saved my butt, thanks!
Good job man 👍🏻
I broke two of those while changing spark plugs, then a “check charging system” alert shown up. Does this situation have anything to do with a broken connectors?
HUGE HELP. Thank you!
Ok soooo um… before I watched your video I had two of the 3 wires out, and set in the new housing but not “snapped in” Of course the 3rd one got STUCK! I had to pull really hard and pulled aallll THREE OUT 😢I’m not sure if I mixed up the wires. I panicked and tried to remember what was where….. I tried to peak at the other set of wires BUT they are all different set of colors! Please help
Thanks great video!!!😅
This saved me! Thanks for the video and link!
You’re awesome! Thanks for the video helped out a bunch!
Did u disconnect the battery before swapping pigtails?
hell yea 😂
Very helpful, thanks for posting!
life saver!
Thank you so much!
Great information
Anyone have a link to part?
Perfect! Thank you very much!
Best video ever!
Right on bro ' 👍
Does anyone have the link for the connector?
Could you please tell me what that piece is called. Cannot seam to find one identical to yours.
See video description for link
I can’t find the connector on Amazon can you sent me the link thanks
See description
Do you think this problem is enough to throw a code. I got the code and while investigating found 2 of these connectors with broken retaining tabs. Despite that, the connectors seem to be firmly connected to the coil.
What code is being thrown? It might be a clue to something going on, but if you've got them pushed on firmly and it's firing on all cylinders, I doubt the little plastic piece alone is throwing a code.
did u get it fixed bro ?
Thx a lot❤!
Well done man.
It would have been helpful to post the part number from amazon
Link in description
Just broke mine, hope it fits a 2016 Expedition..
It should, I figure you'd have the 3.5 Ecoboost
I broke 6 of these. I just plug them back in never have to replace them
They fit very snug
Awesome video, just have the same incident happened to me as well. Caleb, you think you can provide a part number or any other method so i can place an order in Amazon. I tried look for them clips but i can't find them. I have a 2014 f150 5.0.
See description
MINE IS A 2013, PART NO AND SOURCE???? THX
OOPS,,,,,FOUND IT ,,,SORRY,,,,THX
Where was this video when my dumbass cut the wires and failed horribly at soldering new connectors
You don’t need the red clips
Would hv ben nice if you actually showed you doing it.🤪👎👎👎