Nick thankyou for clearing up the feed hole confusion now Im off to figure out the check ball situation. As in leave reverse in or out in a basically stock c3500
Your welcome, Steve - thank you for watching....Leave it in for now as most folks think reverse is too harsh if left out, unless you frequently tow very heavy loads...Then I'd leave it out since the vehicle's weight will absorb most of the shift energy.
Well I needed to get this done so I searched and found the instructions for that Sonnax Sure Cure kit. I drilled 1/2, 2/3, 3/4, and Reverse feeds all to 0.086 per Sonnax recommendations. Then I saw your post and watched……..hopefully it will perform as well as I think it will.
Gotcha - no worries...If you find the 1-2 and/or 3-4 shifts are too harsh, you can peen those two feed holes shut in the spacer plate then re-drill them .010 smaller (that usually addresses overly harsh shifts). The 2-3 feed hole should be fine given you're dual feeding as it needs more volume into that circuit faster than otherwise as the additional space otherwise acts like a 2nd accumulator in the 2-3 apply circuit.
I rebuilt a 4L80E with a Superior Tech shift kit once for a guy who was doing a swap in place of a 4L60E in 1500 series pick up. The vehicle was otherwise completely stock. I drilled the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 feeds per the instructions, finished the unit and gave it back to the customer. A few days later he reported that all of the upshifts were like 'bang shifts' and he said he could barely drive the truck. I told him to bring me the trans back, which he did and I swapped the spacer plate for an unmodified factory compatible plate and gave him the unit back...He told me it shifted perfectly. The feed hole sizes per Superior Tech's instructions were .80, .85 and .80 for 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4, respectively. Hope that helps.
@@nickstransmissions Yea I have been looking around and the sizing seems to be all over the map! I finished and gave it back to him this evening so I will soon know. Can't express how helpful all your input has been Nick!!! Thank You Sir!!
@@nickstransmissions hey Nick I'm trying to replace my tcc valve and spring I'm wondering if I can get the valve out without taking valve body down????
Hi Dylan, you'll need to take the valve body out - watch the vid and you'll see how the roll pin installs from the underside of the VB but there's no hole for the roll pin on the top side of the valve body which is the side that faces you when looking up at it from underneath. I show folks how to get it out in the tear down video; it sometime can be a pain but usually comes out without too much grief. Once you have the valve body out/on the bench, you can install the Sonnax 1-2 and 2-3 shift valve springs along with the bore plugs for the 3rd/Rev and Low/Rev check ball locations as they address known trouble areas in the VB. I'd also replace the o-rings on the EPC and shift solenoid filter screens as well. You can also check the accumulators and then drill the feed holes for your 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 upshifts if you'd like, though don't be too aggressive if you're running a stock stall torque converter, especially on the 1-2 (That you may want to just leave alone).
Hi Nick. This is the best valve body tutorial in youtube. Hands down. 1. I found difficult in removing roller pin that holds valve in. do you have any tips. like rocking back and forth and using magnet.. not sure if you can give me some tips that will be helpful. 2. not sure iff you have any video on diagnosis.. like could be anything say reverse is not working, how would you go on diagnosis. Usually what I do is look at Sonnax zip kit document, they say which valves in valve body and what clutch in transmission might affect no reverse. then checck valve body on those valves that sonnax mandate then go and do air check on those clutch. do you have any videos on something of this sort to help someone like me who is just an entry level to move to next level please. Thanks for your help
Thanks, man - appreciate the kind words...Here's a 4L80E valve body disassembly video - I show you a few different techniques for removing the TCC regulator valve roll pin: th-cam.com/video/iPGMf4Eyv6Y/w-d-xo.html You can check out my 4L80E playlist for all the videos for all related instructions. There's a few diagnosis-centric videos in that playlist as well.
So I’m trying up figure out an 02 4l80e that the previous folks took apart that only has 7 check balls in it. Of course it was not running or installed on anything when I got it (fb marketplace special) and I’ve not seen it run nor have any history with it other than they said it was supposed be a “good transmission” , so idk what else they did to it as they somehow got the selector plate on backwards which is really hard to do and it was obvious they had removed the valve body at some point. So I’m swapping out the valve body with a reman one and will assemble the best I can thanks to your vid series🙏🏼. Now idk if they left the 8th check ball out on purpose or they were just further incompetent. It’s the one closest to the reverse valve (says #9 reverse on some diagrams) . The valve body appears to be stock and the separator plate is the 4272 and the gasket is the 423 on top. Do I need that last check ball? Seems most people say to use all 8?.
Hi Bob, thank you for watching... When you say they got the 'selector plate on backwards', what part are you referring to? There's nothing on that transmission called a 'selector plate'. Regarding the reverse check ball, many builders leave it out for faster engagement into reverse...I usually don't recommend it unless the vehicle is very heavy like a diesel-equipped or otherwise 6.0 or big block tow/haul vehicle....
@@nickstransmissions the gear selector plate I’m referring to is the one that engages with the manual valve. It’s mounted on the selector shaft that the linkage mounts to on the outside of the case. It’s unbelievable to me that whomever took it apart got that gear selector plate on backwards lol. The little steel pin that should engage the manual valve is facing the outer case so it cant operate the manual valve. I figured it out because the b&m shifter I was installing would not be in the correct positions when run through the gears. I’ve never had the transmission installed or apart so I assumed it was okay when I bought it as they claimed it was lol. This Transmission is going on a big P3500 Stepvan so probably be fine leaving that 8th ball out (aka as position #9 on the exploded views). Thanks!
Hi Nick the tcc valve lockup spring for heavy duty towing, is it like a hard shift when you dont have a load on the truck? I will be doing some towing with my diesel duelly truck but im not sure I want a hard lockup with daily driving. I'm trying to decide which spring to use. Thank you for all the videos you do.
Hi Steve, the primary difference between the two TCC springs is that, with the HD spring, you'll clearly feel the converter clutch come on whereas the factory spring provides a stock feel, which sometimes isn't noticeable from the driver's seat. I always install the HD spring and haven't heard any adverse feedback or complaints from customers thus far...
@@nickstransmissions thanks Nick you've been very helpful. I've rebuilt a few transmissions over the years and was an R&R guy in the 90's for a few different trans shops. 2 different aamco shops too and now I see alot have closed. Again I appreciate your videos thank you
Hi Jeremy, I don't give out my location on TH-cam but if you would like to get in touch with me, you can contact me on the GMT400.com forum, my user name there is NickTransmissions. GMT400:www.gmt400.com/
4l80e on the Accumulator control valve what do you think minimum spec is on a towing application, for vacuum testing because the tools to replace the valve are huge money and no one seems to make a slightly oversized valve. thanks nick
Hi Truck_Technician, thank you for watching...I like to see a min of 15hg for Heavy Duty or High Performance applications, generally speaking...Sonnax recommends 14hg minimum on the outboard spool and 18hg minimum on the inboard spool though I've not had any issues with them going back in at 15hg or greater. What are your vacuum readings for that valve?
@@nickstransmissions I will recheck it tonight, but I believe my readings are opposite. I actually have somewhere in the 13 to 14 inches of vacuum reading on the inboard circuit and a little over 18 inches of vacuum on the outboard circuit.
Yea, double check - those could be your readings or you have them reversed. Sonnax shows the inboard side having 18hg so perhaps yours matches their instructions and you just have them reversed above...Here's the instructions for quick reference:d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/2033/34994-22K-IN.pdf?v=1654188186346
@@nickstransmissions I uploaded a video to my channel on vacuum testing the accumulator control valve. Let me know if I’m doing something wrong. I’m always willing to learn thank you for all the things you have taught me about transmission rebuilding so far. I appreciate all your great videos.
I watched your video...looks like you're testing the acc valve but calling the Actuator control valve (i.e. combining both valves into a new type of valve, haha)...The acc valve isn't reading too bad overall but you can install a Central Valve Bodies drop-in oversize valve if you'd like to see those numbers a bit higher...Here's the link to their main 4L80E valve page: cvbparts.com/shop/ols/categories/4l80e?sortOption=descend_by_created_at
Hi Nick hope you dont mind I have another question. I have my trans in and driving around, forward enguagement and shifting forward gears are good with just under 100lbs of pressure. My reverse still has about a 3 second delay but does go in with slightly higher pressure. Im wondering if I should go and remove the reverse check ball? Or should I get a tech 2 scanner and check the voltage to the force motor. The chinese knock offs are about $300. And also would the tech 2 set a different voltage for the pcm if needed? Appreciate any thoughts you may have
Depending on how you set up the direct clutch (i.e. dual feed), a slight delay into reverse is considered normal but three seconds seems excessive...I'd drop the pan and valve body to do an air check of the low-reverse servo (you'll have access to the feed port once the VB is out of the way) then check servo travel with the cover off. You should see somewhere between .125-.175 as measured from the top of the edge of the servo to the case deck surface when measuring between the rearward most two cover bolt hole locations. If your band is applying the drum and your servo travel is within that range, I'd reassemble everything and leave out the reverse check ball.
Hi Nick, im duel feeding yes and the servo travel is good. Air checked good and left out the check ball. Reverse now feels normal. But now driving along in 4th it dropped down to third and the pressure spiked to 150. I have a scanner coming next week. Maybe that'll tell me little more
Just an update truck warms up and then downshifts from 4 to 3rd and wont upshift. Changed the ignition switch but no change. Scanned it and has p1870 code (slipping) speedo seems to always read 5 mph higher than im going. But doesnt feel like its slipping, when it kicks down to 3rd the pressure boosts to 160. Wondering if i should turn the force motor up. Idk 60-70lbs in D seems low. and then code pops up and then goes to 160 -170lbs. New torque converter speed sensors. Seperator plate was ok using the brown check balls.
Hi Nick another question my force motor is reading .9 amps @ about 100lbs. Of pressure with the tech 2. The book says at .9 amps the pressure would be about 30-60lbs. Are these early 4l80e numbers? Either way im vac testing the valve body im getting erratic results. Im reading the 1870 code points mainly to the converter, its a new one though.
What specific readings are you getting on the valve body and for which valves/valve trains are the readings erratic? P1870 is usually converter in the 4L80E but can be TCC regulator valve, excessively worn stator bushings, converter clutch o-ring seal on the input shaft, cross leaks somewhere in the TCC circuit, etc...
Thanks for your vids! I’m going to watch them all a few times probably while I wait on parts and save up for more some of the tooling
Thanks, Chris! Appreciate the kind words and support.
Awesome info as always!!
Thanks, HMG!
Another thorough detailed video. Thank You !
Thank you, Ed! Appreciate the kind words!
Nick thankyou for clearing up the feed hole confusion now Im off to figure out the check ball situation. As in leave reverse in or out in a basically stock c3500
Your welcome, Steve - thank you for watching....Leave it in for now as most folks think reverse is too harsh if left out, unless you frequently tow very heavy loads...Then I'd leave it out since the vehicle's weight will absorb most of the shift energy.
Well I needed to get this done so I searched and found the instructions for that Sonnax Sure Cure kit. I drilled 1/2, 2/3, 3/4, and Reverse feeds all to 0.086 per Sonnax recommendations. Then I saw your post and watched……..hopefully it will perform as well as I think it will.
Gotcha - no worries...If you find the 1-2 and/or 3-4 shifts are too harsh, you can peen those two feed holes shut in the spacer plate then re-drill them .010 smaller (that usually addresses overly harsh shifts). The 2-3 feed hole should be fine given you're dual feeding as it needs more volume into that circuit faster than otherwise as the additional space otherwise acts like a 2nd accumulator in the 2-3 apply circuit.
So you think it will be more than street car stiff?
I rebuilt a 4L80E with a Superior Tech shift kit once for a guy who was doing a swap in place of a 4L60E in 1500 series pick up. The vehicle was otherwise completely stock. I drilled the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 feeds per the instructions, finished the unit and gave it back to the customer. A few days later he reported that all of the upshifts were like 'bang shifts' and he said he could barely drive the truck. I told him to bring me the trans back, which he did and I swapped the spacer plate for an unmodified factory compatible plate and gave him the unit back...He told me it shifted perfectly.
The feed hole sizes per Superior Tech's instructions were .80, .85 and .80 for 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4, respectively.
Hope that helps.
@@nickstransmissions Yea I have been looking around and the sizing seems to be all over the map! I finished and gave it back to him this evening so I will soon know. Can't express how helpful all your input has been Nick!!! Thank You Sir!!
You're welcome, Ross!
Appreciate the views and kind words.
Let me know how it turns out....
Thank you so much for sharing this information. I wish for you a good day. From Iraq.
Thank you for watching! Have a great day as well.
@@nickstransmissions hey Nick I'm trying to replace my tcc valve and spring I'm wondering if I can get the valve out without taking valve body down????
Hi Dylan, you'll need to take the valve body out - watch the vid and you'll see how the roll pin installs from the underside of the VB but there's no hole for the roll pin on the top side of the valve body which is the side that faces you when looking up at it from underneath. I show folks how to get it out in the tear down video; it sometime can be a pain but usually comes out without too much grief.
Once you have the valve body out/on the bench, you can install the Sonnax 1-2 and 2-3 shift valve springs along with the bore plugs for the 3rd/Rev and Low/Rev check ball locations as they address known trouble areas in the VB. I'd also replace the o-rings on the EPC and shift solenoid filter screens as well. You can also check the accumulators and then drill the feed holes for your 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 upshifts if you'd like, though don't be too aggressive if you're running a stock stall torque converter, especially on the 1-2 (That you may want to just leave alone).
@@nickstransmissions thanks brother I'm watching your tear down video now thank you
Hi Nick.
This is the best valve body tutorial in youtube. Hands down.
1. I found difficult in removing roller pin that holds valve in. do you have any tips. like rocking back and forth and using magnet.. not sure if you can give me some tips that will be helpful.
2. not sure iff you have any video on diagnosis.. like could be anything say reverse is not working, how would you go on diagnosis.
Usually what I do is look at Sonnax zip kit document, they say which valves in valve body and what clutch in transmission might affect no reverse.
then checck valve body on those valves that sonnax mandate then go and do air check on those clutch.
do you have any videos on something of this sort to help someone like me who is just an entry level to move to next level please.
Thanks for your help
Thanks, man - appreciate the kind words...Here's a 4L80E valve body disassembly video - I show you a few different techniques for removing the TCC regulator valve roll pin: th-cam.com/video/iPGMf4Eyv6Y/w-d-xo.html
You can check out my 4L80E playlist for all the videos for all related instructions. There's a few diagnosis-centric videos in that playlist as well.
So I’m trying up figure out an 02 4l80e that the previous folks took apart that only has 7 check balls in it. Of course it was not running or installed on anything when I got it (fb marketplace special) and I’ve not seen it run nor have any history with it other than they said it was supposed be a “good transmission” , so idk what else they did to it as they somehow got the selector plate on backwards which is really hard to do and it was obvious they had removed the valve body at some point. So I’m swapping out the valve body with a reman one and will assemble the best I can thanks to your vid series🙏🏼. Now idk if they left the 8th check ball out on purpose or they were just further incompetent. It’s the one closest to the reverse valve (says #9 reverse on some diagrams) . The valve body appears to be stock and the separator plate is the 4272 and the gasket is the 423 on top. Do I need that last check ball? Seems most people say to use all 8?.
Hi Bob, thank you for watching...
When you say they got the 'selector plate on backwards', what part are you referring to? There's nothing on that transmission called a 'selector plate'.
Regarding the reverse check ball, many builders leave it out for faster engagement into reverse...I usually don't recommend it unless the vehicle is very heavy like a diesel-equipped or otherwise 6.0 or big block tow/haul vehicle....
@@nickstransmissions the gear selector plate I’m referring to is the one that engages with the manual valve. It’s mounted on the selector shaft that the linkage mounts to on the outside of the case. It’s unbelievable to me that whomever took it apart got that gear selector plate on backwards lol. The little steel pin that should engage the manual valve is facing the outer case so it cant operate the manual valve. I figured it out because the b&m shifter I was installing would not be in the correct positions when run through the gears. I’ve never had the transmission installed or apart so I assumed it was okay when I bought it as they claimed it was lol. This Transmission is going on a big P3500 Stepvan so probably be fine leaving that 8th ball out (aka as position #9 on the exploded views). Thanks!
@@nickstransmissions thank you so much for the high quality videos!!
The "gear selector plate" is called the Rooster Comb...
You're welcome, man. Hopefully you can get it back running again with the new valve body.
How do you remove the roll pin for the TCC valve?
I show the TCC roll pin removal technique that I always use here: th-cam.com/video/iPGMf4Eyv6Y/w-d-xo.html
@@nickstransmissions thank you. Appreciate the videos. Keep them coming.
Will do, Michael - thank you for watching!
Hi Nick the tcc valve lockup spring for heavy duty towing, is it like a hard shift when you dont have a load on the truck? I will be doing some towing with my diesel duelly truck but im not sure I want a hard lockup with daily driving. I'm trying to decide which spring to use. Thank you for all the videos you do.
Hi Steve, the primary difference between the two TCC springs is that, with the HD spring, you'll clearly feel the converter clutch come on whereas the factory spring provides a stock feel, which sometimes isn't noticeable from the driver's seat.
I always install the HD spring and haven't heard any adverse feedback or complaints from customers thus far...
@@nickstransmissions thanks Nick you've been very helpful. I've rebuilt a few transmissions over the years and was an R&R guy in the 90's for a few different trans shops. 2 different aamco shops too and now I see alot have closed. Again I appreciate your videos thank you
You're welcome, Steve!
Hey where are you located? I’m looking to get a 700r4 rebuilt.
Hi Jeremy, I don't give out my location on TH-cam but if you would like to get in touch with me, you can contact me on the GMT400.com forum, my user name there is NickTransmissions.
GMT400:www.gmt400.com/
4l80e on the Accumulator control valve what do you think minimum spec is on a towing application, for vacuum testing because the tools to replace the valve are huge money and no one seems to make a slightly oversized valve. thanks nick
Hi Truck_Technician, thank you for watching...I like to see a min of 15hg for Heavy Duty or High Performance applications, generally speaking...Sonnax recommends 14hg minimum on the outboard spool and 18hg minimum on the inboard spool though I've not had any issues with them going back in at 15hg or greater.
What are your vacuum readings for that valve?
@@nickstransmissions I will recheck it tonight, but I believe my readings are opposite. I actually have somewhere in the 13 to 14 inches of vacuum reading on the inboard circuit and a little over 18 inches of vacuum on the outboard circuit.
Yea, double check - those could be your readings or you have them reversed. Sonnax shows the inboard side having 18hg so perhaps yours matches their instructions and you just have them reversed above...Here's the instructions for quick reference:d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/2033/34994-22K-IN.pdf?v=1654188186346
@@nickstransmissions I uploaded a video to my channel on vacuum testing the accumulator control valve. Let me know if I’m doing something wrong. I’m always willing to learn thank you for all the things you have taught me about transmission rebuilding so far. I appreciate all your great videos.
I watched your video...looks like you're testing the acc valve but calling the Actuator control valve (i.e. combining both valves into a new type of valve, haha)...The acc valve isn't reading too bad overall but you can install a Central Valve Bodies drop-in oversize valve if you'd like to see those numbers a bit higher...Here's the link to their main 4L80E valve page: cvbparts.com/shop/ols/categories/4l80e?sortOption=descend_by_created_at
Great video
Thanks, Wilburn!
Hi Nick hope you dont mind I have another question. I have my trans in and driving around, forward enguagement and shifting forward gears are good with just under 100lbs of pressure. My reverse still has about a 3 second delay but does go in with slightly higher pressure. Im wondering if I should go and remove the reverse check ball? Or should I get a tech 2 scanner and check the voltage to the force motor. The chinese knock offs are about $300. And also would the tech 2 set a different voltage for the pcm if needed? Appreciate any thoughts you may have
Depending on how you set up the direct clutch (i.e. dual feed), a slight delay into reverse is considered normal but three seconds seems excessive...I'd drop the pan and valve body to do an air check of the low-reverse servo (you'll have access to the feed port once the VB is out of the way) then check servo travel with the cover off. You should see somewhere between .125-.175 as measured from the top of the edge of the servo to the case deck surface when measuring between the rearward most two cover bolt hole locations. If your band is applying the drum and your servo travel is within that range, I'd reassemble everything and leave out the reverse check ball.
Hi Nick, im duel feeding yes and the servo travel is good. Air checked good and left out the check ball. Reverse now feels normal. But now driving along in 4th it dropped down to third and the pressure spiked to 150. I have a scanner coming next week. Maybe that'll tell me little more
Just an update truck warms up and then downshifts from 4 to 3rd and wont upshift. Changed the ignition switch but no change. Scanned it and has p1870 code (slipping) speedo seems to always read 5 mph higher than im going. But doesnt feel like its slipping, when it kicks down to 3rd the pressure boosts to 160. Wondering if i should turn the force motor up. Idk 60-70lbs in D seems low. and then code pops up and then goes to 160 -170lbs. New torque converter speed sensors. Seperator plate was ok using the brown check balls.
Hi Nick another question my force motor is reading .9 amps @ about 100lbs. Of pressure with the tech 2. The book says at .9 amps the pressure would be about 30-60lbs. Are these early 4l80e numbers? Either way im vac testing the valve body im getting erratic results. Im reading the 1870 code points mainly to the converter, its a new one though.
What specific readings are you getting on the valve body and for which valves/valve trains are the readings erratic?
P1870 is usually converter in the 4L80E but can be TCC regulator valve, excessively worn stator bushings, converter clutch o-ring seal on the input shaft, cross leaks somewhere in the TCC circuit, etc...
Can you tell me where you go your straight edges at
Hi Patrick - got that one off eBay.
😍
Thanks, Frosty!
you are the man excellent video thanks for sharing
Thanks, Juan! Appreciate the kind words.