First off. Awesome videos. Including the 2 part 6r80 rear down and rebuild . Very informative. I believe I could handle the job and probably will have to shortly. My question is, If you replace all the solenoids and lead frame. What is required to “program” it and does it require taking it to a Ford dealership shop or can it be done with a handheld scan tool.
Thanks, Tony - appreciate the views and kind words. No programming is required however the transmission Keep Alive Memory (KAM) should be cleared/reset prior to driving it. This can be done with either Ford's diagnostic and testing software or most bi-directional scan tools.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks for the quick reply and information. That makes more sense. I have been told by several people, including a few “mechanics” that if I pull the transmission and completely rebuild it, including new solenoids. I will have to have it towed to a “Ford” dealership in order for it to be programmed before I can drive it. I am hoping I can fix it myself without having to go down the “dealership road”. I was told by one of those “mechanics” that it has to be rebuilt. He test drove it and it does seem to shift erratically sometimes and will slip in 5th, but not all the time. Was told that no trouble codes were found 🤷♂️. If you run it in manual mode and shift with the button. It shifts fine and never slips. Any idea what could possibly be the problem? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
That's true if you have to change the valve body and/or solenoid strategy but if you're just replacing solenoids with new counterparts and reinstalling the same design valve body then no programming should be needed....Just the transmission KAM reset. Slipping in any gear indicates either a line pressure problem inside the unit or worn applied elements (clutches, bands, etc)...I believe the pressure is a bit higher in manual mode so not surprised to hear it's slipping if the overdrive clutch (4th, 5th and 6th gears) is beginning to wear/fail. I would yank it out for overhaul sooner rather than later before it strands you somewhere... Do you have a 2WD or 4WD vehicle?
@@nickstransmissions It’s a 4x4. Thanks for the advice. I did not know that it had higher pressures in manual mode. I just assumed that in manual mode it basically took the solenoids or rather the solenoid strategy out of the equation. Meaning that you can put it in whichever gear you want without having the electronics deciding which gear to be in. At least that’s the theory I came up with being it works perfectly in manual mode. This is my first attempt at troubleshooting a transmission. That’s how I came across your videos. After watching your videos. I don’t feel as intimidated rebuilding one, but I have a lot to learn on understanding how the electrical side of them work. Thanks again for the reply to my questions.
Solenoids still have to be commanded on and off based on what you're doing when in manual mode so the automatic shift pattern remains the same but you control the shift points vs the ECU, that's really the only difference. Have you dropped the pan as of yet?
Hi... I have a 2016 Ford Transit 3.7L with P0768 & P0769 codes. The transmission basically puts itself in neutral while driving. Any idea which solenoids I have to replace?
Hi Nick, im trying to troubleshoot a 3-4 and 4-3 shift problem on my 2013 f150 6r80, (but its in a foxbody) you helped me out on the other rebuild video and i was able to replace my broken intermediate shaft but the problem is still there. I have narrowed it down to the valve body, (i think) and now im trying to figure out what valve or valves could make the trans have this issue.
@@nickstransmissionsit feels like a really hard shift, or I should say sounds like a really hard shift because the vehicle does not jerk or anything. It sounds really loud, and does have a squawk sound to it. I'm pretty sure it's what broke my intermediate shaft last time. (Got on it even though I knew I shouldn't have) I should also add that I installed a sonnax kit in the valvebody, it was a new valve body from Street Smart Transmission in Florida
Hmmm...I don't like the stock shafts in those or the GM 6L80/90s as they will break if you look at them funny. Billet shaft/hub assemblies, while expensive, are worth the money IMO. I'm wondering you have issues inside the case that can be causing the issue...One of my shop accounts has a 6R140 with a very harsh 5-4 downshift and no other symptoms...I'll be testing that VB/solenoids next week to see if the problem is in the VB/Solenoids or somewhere else....Street Smart has a a good reputation, generally speaking though we can't know if the valve body or solenoids are the problem unless they are tested as shown in this video series (the valve body anyways; I have to do a video on mechanical testing of solenoids). The other possibility is the the input speed sensor in the lead frame...Ford has numerous recalls over those stupid things and many of them are for malfunctioning input and output speed sensor portions of the lead frame.
Tore down my trans for the 3rd time for this problem with the 3-4 and 4-3 shift issue, I did find that my intermediate clutch pack was tighter than the spec at .020. I believe min is .023, would that cause my issue?
Can you give me your opinion I had my 2016 f150 6r80 rebuilt recently but now it's shifting really hard upshift an downshift but not on a load more when on light throttle load almost shifts fine if ur on a heavy load but if ur driving like a grandpa it hill shift extremely hard almost a heavy clunk during up an down shifts.what would be your guess the issue it could be
Hi, my guess is valve body - specifically worn accumulator dampers and/or solenoid regulator valve. Could also be a line pressure issue driven by a bad mass air flow sensor (over-reporting air charge to the engine) or throttle position sensor (over-reporting throttle position relative to actual). Put a bi-directional scan tool on it and watch engine PIDs to see if anything's showing up unusual. Also test the MAF and TPS. That's where I'd start.
While I continue to watch this. I will say that. Ambient temperature of the solenoids, will make some difference. In the readings. As little as 5 degrees can make different readings.
Hey Larry, thanks for making sense of that for me...I think when those solenoids were tested (and values written on their bodies) temps were in the mid 80s but when I filmed that segment the following day (later in the day), temps were in the high 90s. So that would explain the difference in those readings.
I finally got to finish watching this. As usual, another good informative video. I would like to ask about the holder on the transmission, that you can see some of. Towards the end of the video. That sir, really interests me.
Thanks, Larry...That's a Norco stand and adaptor system for those Ford and ZF 6 speed transmissions...I will be doing a video on special tooling for the 6R80 soon and it will feature that stand/fixture combo.
I have an issue with my 2016 6r80 only when shifting into 4 gear it has a delay shifting all other gear shift perfectly fine, issue is only on 4 gear or when down shifting when pressing the gas to pass, recently I changed the lead frame because a got a code P720 and P722 but the 4 gear issue is still present, can you tell me what can be the issue I am having? It may be a bad solenoid? Thanks.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks Nick, I was hoping it was a solenoid ( I never has a code for a bad solenoid) it look is the overdrive clutch and this will require to lower the transmission😫, I forgot to tell you it also make like a ground ing sound when shifting to 4 like about 25 to 30 mph, so I have to depress the gas before shifting to 4 gear and wait until it completely shift into 4 to continue driving as normal. If you have another tip I will appreciate it, and thanks for your really nice videos. 👍
You're welcome, man...I suspect the intermediate shaft may be starting to strip at the splines into the rear planet, if that's what you're hearing...Yank it out and tear it down following my tear down and inspection video...All the 6R80 content on my channel is from the same transmission which was out of a 2016 F-150...So basically a carbon copy of what you're working with. Here's the tear down video to get you started: th-cam.com/video/ddHlCMp5cng/w-d-xo.html
@@nickstransmissions yes, i did replaced the lead frame myself but i do not know if i will try to do that repair myself. Thanks for your tips, blessing. 👍
Gotcha...The rebuild series may be of interest so that you get an idea of what a proper overhaul looks like, including what parts are replaced...This way you can have conversations with transmission shops, ask them what parts they replace so you can compare to mine to see what you'd be getting for your money.
At the risk of you getting all butt-hurt again, I want to point out a technical glitch that you stated. Solenoids do not "put out milliamps". They are NOT energy producing components - they are energy consuming components.(since this appears to be an educational video, I would assume that you would want correct information to be conveyed) That being said, you most definitely DO have the equipment to test them. It is the same meter in your video. Hook up your meter leads IN SERIES with a test harness of the proper voltage for the solenoid.(I don't know if it is the full 12 volts or a reduced number) and activate them. I=E/R (ohm's law) does not lie.(As a side note, the easiest "test harness" would be to plug all the solenoids into the lead frame and use the pin-outs to test ) Your other commenter is correct that temp. variations can effect ohm readings. In closing, you have a good clean presentation and I commend you for educating yourself and refer to the LEEEED frame as such.
No butt-hut here but I'll speak up if I don't like how something is said or done to me, as you've seen so as long as folks know that going in, no reason we can't have civil discourse....That said, all of the above is great information and I appreciate you sharing it. I need to do some more self education into the electrical side of the house when it comes to transmissions so sharing your knowledge like this definitely helps me progress along those lines. Thank you for watching, Skutahuniai.
@@nickstransmissions I may be wrong but I think you may be just starting to venture in to the 6-8-10 speeds and their electronics. If so, yes you need to get good with the electronic aspect. That being said, you learn by reading and listening but if you are fed incorrect info, then it perpetuates itself. Case in point. Here is a quote from a Transmission Digest article of April 30, 2024: "The Ford 6R80 transmission has one on/off solenoid, which is Shift Solenoid “E”, as seen in Figure 1, above. It has received a design change that has raised its resistance and, therefore, the current flowing through it." Absolute utter nonsense and incorrect. If you raise the resistance of a component, you lower the current flow, not raise it for a given voltage! When you have tech writers putting out this nonsense, what can be expected? PS - You mentioned including links to your charts but I don't see any links.
Thanks again...And you're correct with respect to the 6-8-10 speeds, especially the latter two. Excellent information with respect the Trans Digest article, that kind of information is priceless when trying to understand the electrical side and what to be on the lookout for out there in publications like articles, guides, manuals, etc. I'll upload the link to my chart into the description in the next day or so, thanks for the heads up...
@@nickstransmissions A lot of these so-called "tech writers" have never had a wrench in their hands. The only trustable articles are from the likes of GM, Ford, Dodge etc tech departments and Sonnax, Transgo, Hughes etc. For anyone reading, I will give a short blurb on solenoid "bands". They are actually only important for service and repair. After manufacture, ALL solenoids are tested and have their FLOW RATES noted and stamped with a certain color or number. Upon initial transmission assembly, the tech doesn't care what "band" he is installing. It doesn't matter because initial testing(or a re-learn after a complete rebuild) will allow the PCM to adjust to that flow rate. It is only important when replacing a defective one. It must be replaced with the same "band" because the PCM has set parameters for that flow rate.
I re-read your first comment, "Hook up your meter leads IN SERIES with a test harness of the proper voltage for the solenoid.(I don't know if it is the full 12 volts or a reduced number) and activate them. I=E/R (ohm's law) does not lie.(As a side note, the easiest "test harness" would be to plug all the solenoids into the lead frame and use the pin-outs to test )" and decided I will do this in a follow-on video on these solenoids for ZF and 6R transmissions demonstrating what you've described...When I made the statement in that video about not having the equipment, I was actually referring to Sonnax's Solenoid Manifold Test kit, which wasn't in my possession at the time but I'll have next week so will incorporate your suggestion and vacuum testing in this follow on video. Thanks again for the tip.
First off. Awesome videos. Including the 2 part 6r80 rear down and rebuild . Very informative. I believe I could handle the job and probably will have to shortly. My question is, If you replace all the solenoids and lead frame. What is required to “program” it and does it require taking it to a Ford dealership shop or can it be done with a handheld scan tool.
Thanks, Tony - appreciate the views and kind words.
No programming is required however the transmission Keep Alive Memory (KAM) should be cleared/reset prior to driving it. This can be done with either Ford's diagnostic and testing software or most bi-directional scan tools.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks for the quick reply and information. That makes more sense. I have been told by several people, including a few “mechanics” that if I pull the transmission and completely rebuild it, including new solenoids. I will have to have it towed to a “Ford” dealership in order for it to be programmed before I can drive it. I am hoping I can fix it myself without having to go down the “dealership road”. I was told by one of those “mechanics” that it has to be rebuilt. He test drove it and it does seem to shift erratically sometimes and will slip in 5th, but not all the time. Was told that no trouble codes were found 🤷♂️. If you run it in manual mode and shift with the button. It shifts fine and never slips. Any idea what could possibly be the problem? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
That's true if you have to change the valve body and/or solenoid strategy but if you're just replacing solenoids with new counterparts and reinstalling the same design valve body then no programming should be needed....Just the transmission KAM reset.
Slipping in any gear indicates either a line pressure problem inside the unit or worn applied elements (clutches, bands, etc)...I believe the pressure is a bit higher in manual mode so not surprised to hear it's slipping if the overdrive clutch (4th, 5th and 6th gears) is beginning to wear/fail.
I would yank it out for overhaul sooner rather than later before it strands you somewhere...
Do you have a 2WD or 4WD vehicle?
@@nickstransmissions It’s a 4x4. Thanks for the advice. I did not know that it had higher pressures in manual mode. I just assumed that in manual mode it basically took the solenoids or rather the solenoid strategy out of the equation. Meaning that you can put it in whichever gear you want without having the electronics deciding which gear to be in. At least that’s the theory I came up with being it works perfectly in manual mode. This is my first attempt at troubleshooting a transmission. That’s how I came across your videos. After watching your videos. I don’t feel as intimidated rebuilding one, but I have a lot to learn on understanding how the electrical side of them work. Thanks again for the reply to my questions.
Solenoids still have to be commanded on and off based on what you're doing when in manual mode so the automatic shift pattern remains the same but you control the shift points vs the ECU, that's really the only difference.
Have you dropped the pan as of yet?
Hi... I have a 2016 Ford Transit 3.7L with P0768 & P0769 codes. The transmission basically puts itself in neutral while driving. Any idea which solenoids I have to replace?
Google search those codes, reply back with what they say and we can go from there.
Hi Nick, im trying to troubleshoot a 3-4 and 4-3 shift problem on my 2013 f150 6r80, (but its in a foxbody) you helped me out on the other rebuild video and i was able to replace my broken intermediate shaft but the problem is still there. I have narrowed it down to the valve body, (i think) and now im trying to figure out what valve or valves could make the trans have this issue.
Hi Abreaux, what specifically is happening at the 3-4 shift and 4-3 downshift?
@@nickstransmissionsit feels like a really hard shift, or I should say sounds like a really hard shift because the vehicle does not jerk or anything. It sounds really loud, and does have a squawk sound to it. I'm pretty sure it's what broke my intermediate shaft last time. (Got on it even though I knew I shouldn't have) I should also add that I installed a sonnax kit in the valvebody, it was a new valve body from Street Smart Transmission in Florida
Hmmm...I don't like the stock shafts in those or the GM 6L80/90s as they will break if you look at them funny. Billet shaft/hub assemblies, while expensive, are worth the money IMO.
I'm wondering you have issues inside the case that can be causing the issue...One of my shop accounts has a 6R140 with a very harsh 5-4 downshift and no other symptoms...I'll be testing that VB/solenoids next week to see if the problem is in the VB/Solenoids or somewhere else....Street Smart has a a good reputation, generally speaking though we can't know if the valve body or solenoids are the problem unless they are tested as shown in this video series (the valve body anyways; I have to do a video on mechanical testing of solenoids).
The other possibility is the the input speed sensor in the lead frame...Ford has numerous recalls over those stupid things and many of them are for malfunctioning input and output speed sensor portions of the lead frame.
@@nickstransmissionsi really appreciate you taking the time to explain. Thanks again
Tore down my trans for the 3rd time for this problem with the 3-4 and 4-3 shift issue, I did find that my intermediate clutch pack was tighter than the spec at .020. I believe min is .023, would that cause my issue?
Can you give me your opinion I had my 2016 f150 6r80 rebuilt recently but now it's shifting really hard upshift an downshift but not on a load more when on light throttle load almost shifts fine if ur on a heavy load but if ur driving like a grandpa it hill shift extremely hard almost a heavy clunk during up an down shifts.what would be your guess the issue it could be
Hi, my guess is valve body - specifically worn accumulator dampers and/or solenoid regulator valve. Could also be a line pressure issue driven by a bad mass air flow sensor (over-reporting air charge to the engine) or throttle position sensor (over-reporting throttle position relative to actual). Put a bi-directional scan tool on it and watch engine PIDs to see if anything's showing up unusual. Also test the MAF and TPS.
That's where I'd start.
Where can I find the valvebody strategy number and solenoid ID number on the valvebody
ID tag (per your comment on PT1, I'm guessing yours is missing). See my response to your comment on PT1 for next steps.
Can you find the solenoid id number on the solenoid
Answers are in the video - please re-watch if you're not sure.
While I continue to watch this. I will say that. Ambient temperature of the solenoids, will make some difference. In the readings. As little as 5 degrees can make different readings.
Hey Larry, thanks for making sense of that for me...I think when those solenoids were tested (and values written on their bodies) temps were in the mid 80s but when I filmed that segment the following day (later in the day), temps were in the high 90s. So that would explain the difference in those readings.
I finally got to finish watching this. As usual, another good informative video. I would like to ask about the holder on the transmission, that you can see some of. Towards the end of the video. That sir, really interests me.
Thanks, Larry...That's a Norco stand and adaptor system for those Ford and ZF 6 speed transmissions...I will be doing a video on special tooling for the 6R80 soon and it will feature that stand/fixture combo.
I have an issue with my 2016 6r80 only when shifting into 4 gear it has a delay shifting all other gear shift perfectly fine, issue is only on 4 gear or when down shifting when pressing the gas to pass, recently I changed the lead frame because a got a code P720 and P722 but the 4 gear issue is still present, can you tell me what can be the issue I am having? It may be a bad solenoid? Thanks.
Hi Carmelo, I suspect your overdrive clutch is beginning to fail but you can test your solenoids based on how I show in the video.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks Nick, I was hoping it was a solenoid ( I never has a code for a bad solenoid) it look is the overdrive clutch and this will require to lower the transmission😫, I forgot to tell you it also make like a ground ing sound when shifting to 4 like about 25 to 30 mph, so I have to depress the gas before shifting to 4 gear and wait until it completely shift into 4 to continue driving as normal. If you have another tip I will appreciate it, and thanks for your really nice videos. 👍
You're welcome, man...I suspect the intermediate shaft may be starting to strip at the splines into the rear planet, if that's what you're hearing...Yank it out and tear it down following my tear down and inspection video...All the 6R80 content on my channel is from the same transmission which was out of a 2016 F-150...So basically a carbon copy of what you're working with.
Here's the tear down video to get you started: th-cam.com/video/ddHlCMp5cng/w-d-xo.html
@@nickstransmissions yes, i did replaced the lead frame myself but i do not know if i will try to do that repair myself. Thanks for your tips, blessing. 👍
Gotcha...The rebuild series may be of interest so that you get an idea of what a proper overhaul looks like, including what parts are replaced...This way you can have conversations with transmission shops, ask them what parts they replace so you can compare to mine to see what you'd be getting for your money.
At the risk of you getting all butt-hurt again, I want to point out a technical glitch that you stated. Solenoids do not "put out milliamps". They are NOT energy producing components - they are energy consuming components.(since this appears to be an educational video, I would assume that you would want correct information to be conveyed) That being said, you most definitely DO have the equipment to test them. It is the same meter in your video. Hook up your meter leads IN SERIES with a test harness of the proper voltage for the solenoid.(I don't know if it is the full 12 volts or a reduced number) and activate them. I=E/R (ohm's law) does not lie.(As a side note, the easiest "test harness" would be to plug all the solenoids into the lead frame and use the pin-outs to test ) Your other commenter is correct that temp. variations can effect ohm readings. In closing, you have a good clean presentation and I commend you for educating yourself and refer to the LEEEED frame as such.
No butt-hut here but I'll speak up if I don't like how something is said or done to me, as you've seen so as long as folks know that going in, no reason we can't have civil discourse....That said, all of the above is great information and I appreciate you sharing it. I need to do some more self education into the electrical side of the house when it comes to transmissions so sharing your knowledge like this definitely helps me progress along those lines.
Thank you for watching, Skutahuniai.
@@nickstransmissions I may be wrong but I think you may be just starting to venture in to the 6-8-10 speeds and their electronics. If so, yes you need to get good with the electronic aspect. That being said, you learn by reading and listening but if you are fed incorrect info, then it perpetuates itself. Case in point. Here is a quote from a Transmission Digest article of April 30, 2024: "The Ford 6R80 transmission has one on/off solenoid, which is Shift Solenoid “E”, as seen in Figure 1, above. It has received a design change that has raised its resistance and, therefore, the current flowing through it." Absolute utter nonsense and incorrect. If you raise the resistance of a component, you lower the current flow, not raise it for a given voltage! When you have tech writers putting out this nonsense, what can be expected? PS - You mentioned including links to your charts but I don't see any links.
Thanks again...And you're correct with respect to the 6-8-10 speeds, especially the latter two.
Excellent information with respect the Trans Digest article, that kind of information is priceless when trying to understand the electrical side and what to be on the lookout for out there in publications like articles, guides, manuals, etc.
I'll upload the link to my chart into the description in the next day or so, thanks for the heads up...
@@nickstransmissions A lot of these so-called "tech writers" have never had a wrench in their hands. The only trustable articles are from the likes of GM, Ford, Dodge etc tech departments and Sonnax, Transgo, Hughes etc. For anyone reading, I will give a short blurb on solenoid "bands". They are actually only important for service and repair. After manufacture, ALL solenoids are tested and have their FLOW RATES noted and stamped with a certain color or number. Upon initial transmission assembly, the tech doesn't care what "band" he is installing. It doesn't matter because initial testing(or a re-learn after a complete rebuild) will allow the PCM to adjust to that flow rate. It is only important when replacing a defective one. It must be replaced with the same "band" because the PCM has set parameters for that flow rate.
I re-read your first comment,
"Hook up your meter leads IN SERIES with a test harness of the proper voltage for the solenoid.(I don't know if it is the full 12 volts or a reduced number) and activate them. I=E/R (ohm's law) does not lie.(As a side note, the easiest "test harness" would be to plug all the solenoids into the lead frame and use the pin-outs to test )"
and decided I will do this in a follow-on video on these solenoids for ZF and 6R transmissions demonstrating what you've described...When I made the statement in that video about not having the equipment, I was actually referring to Sonnax's Solenoid Manifold Test kit, which wasn't in my possession at the time but I'll have next week so will incorporate your suggestion and vacuum testing in this follow on video.
Thanks again for the tip.