Thanks for posting this. By watching your video I was able to replace the transmission mount on my 2003 Element which has over 300,000 miles. I was having bad vibrations at low rpm and I could not run my air conditioner while idling. This seems to have fixed all those problems!
My car runs new thanks to this. One tip for anyone doing this, for the bolt that is the furthest away next to the wheel well, take some painters tape and tape to the socket when putting the bolt back in so it doesn't pachinko down in the front end. Thanks for the vid.
You make it seem so easy, I've been trying to get the last 2 bolts for 2 hours w liquid wrench n WD-40 n they won't come out using a Walmart impact drill!
I just changed mine out in an 05 stick shift. My bolt configuration is significantly different. Your method worked, but not nearly as easy. The two lower bolts of the side mount were a bear to get to and remove.
Of the three "bolts" that hold the mount to the transmission? Two are long studs on many cars that use a nut instead of a bolt. Wasted a freaking day, had to put it all back together and go get deep well sockets.
@@APDTY At the beginning of the video you performed a test under load in forward and reverse. Was not easy to tell. Could only hear a buzzing noise in forward. That is not typically associated with a bad bushing which would clunk due to excessive engine movement. Thanks for the reply.
@@canuckfixit7722 Just listened to the buzzing you were talking about. This is my personal vehicle, and I completely forgot about that sound. I can say that this repair solved the problem, however. I distinctly remember there being a metal on metal clanking sound when the engine would move due to excessive movement, but for some reason that is not shown in the video. We did this back in early 2018 so I don't remember all the details. My guess is that the bushing was loose enough to allow the engine to bang into something, which made the clanking sound, but the buzzing sound was a vibrational issue caused by the RPM.
@@canuckfixit7722 So when you are looking under the hood at the engine compartment, you would do this safely with your foot on the brake and parking brake on, also stand on the side of the vehicle. Next you would go in either forward or reverse but usually both and you visually inspect all of the mounts for play. Forward or reverse and give short bursts of the accelerator to see the engine or trans lift would both show play win these mounts and some are more visible in forward and some more visible in reverse.
Thanks for posting this. By watching your video I was able to replace the transmission mount on my 2003 Element which has over 300,000 miles. I was having bad vibrations at low rpm and I could not run my air conditioner while idling. This seems to have fixed all those problems!
My car runs new thanks to this. One tip for anyone doing this, for the bolt that is the furthest away next to the wheel well, take some painters tape and tape to the socket when putting the bolt back in so it doesn't pachinko down in the front end. Thanks for the vid.
Sam S excellent, thanks for watching!!
I can’t get the center bolt that goes through the mount out for the life of me
I suspect the other sidemount is also bad given the amount of engine rotation when torqued.
The main thing in the process is not to spoil the threads on the gearbox studs.
Find out the tightening torque of the bolts
well produced and filmed, clear instructions, and to the point. Thankyou
torque specs?
You make it seem so easy, I've been trying to get the last 2 bolts for 2 hours w liquid wrench n WD-40 n they won't come out using a Walmart impact drill!
Did you manage to get the bolts out? Needed more penetrating oil and patience? I might be undertaking this project on my 05 Element soon.
Great video. When did you remove the jack from the transmission?
does anyone know how to change the rear motor mount on a Honda element
Would you know if these mounts have hydraulic oil inside or are they solid rubber?
Please let me know if this is an automatic or manual transmission mount.
Nevermind I see it's an automatic transmission in the end. Thanks for the good video.
I just changed mine out in an 05 stick shift. My bolt configuration is significantly different. Your method worked, but not nearly as easy. The two lower bolts of the side mount were a bear to get to and remove.
What are the parts that you transferred from the old mount? I don't recall having to do that when I changed it.
What exactly is that piece you had to swap over for? The mount I bought from O'Reilly came with one already installed.
Of the three "bolts" that hold the mount to the transmission? Two are long studs on many cars that use a nut instead of a bolt. Wasted a freaking day, had to put it all back together and go get deep well sockets.
What were the symptoms of this failed mount? Noises, vibration?
There was a clunking noise whenever the engine moved, during acceleration mostly.
@@APDTY At the beginning of the video you performed a test under load in forward and reverse. Was not easy to tell. Could only hear a buzzing noise in forward. That is not typically associated with a bad bushing which would clunk due to excessive engine movement. Thanks for the reply.
@@canuckfixit7722 Just listened to the buzzing you were talking about. This is my personal vehicle, and I completely forgot about that sound. I can say that this repair solved the problem, however. I distinctly remember there being a metal on metal clanking sound when the engine would move due to excessive movement, but for some reason that is not shown in the video. We did this back in early 2018 so I don't remember all the details. My guess is that the bushing was loose enough to allow the engine to bang into something, which made the clanking sound, but the buzzing sound was a vibrational issue caused by the RPM.
@@canuckfixit7722 So when you are looking under the hood at the engine compartment, you would do this safely with your foot on the brake and parking brake on, also stand on the side of the vehicle. Next you would go in either forward or reverse but usually both and you visually inspect all of the mounts for play. Forward or reverse and give short bursts of the accelerator to see the engine or trans lift would both show play win these mounts and some are more visible in forward and some more visible in reverse.
AWESOME
What did you charge to do the job?
Its about $365.00 on the low side.
Don't you love it when they post videos yet they will not say how much.