can't wait to see the update on this. also appreciate you filming the awkward stuff and sharing everything... it's nice to know these things happen to everyone!
I had this exact same issue while on the Jeep badge trails out in Colorado. The fix for me was to tighten my fuse box bus bar, and to push down on all the fuses inside the fuse box under the hood. I found several of them that re-seated once pushed down.
Yeah, checked all the fuses as well as the bars under it. As mentioned, for the most part, things are better with the exception of the passenger side tail light.
@@wayalife I have seen on occasion a bulb that is intermittent and actually is bad but it works perfectly fine when at a standstill but the moment you drive and the vibrations from the road. Happened numerous times on our older 2003 Ram 1500 ,I found out one day as I was driving behind my wife and saw it flicker as she was pulling up to a stop sign, so I went and bought a cheap replacement Eiko solved the problem for about a week, then it was back, I was converting my 1992 Dodge Dakota over to full LED and I had a set of Sylvania Silverstars swapped it in, it never ever had that issue again. Would hurt to inspect the housing maybe a rodent has got a hold of some wiring.
I am glad to know I am not the only person to have these gremlins!! I had a brand new off the lot 2021 JLU and almost from day one I was having electrical issues, some of what you had and some others. I had 4 wheel drive issues as well. I had it in the dealership days at a time, which amounted to weeks over the three years I owned it. The dealer said they had folks at Jeep HQ trying to help diagnose and no luck. I had tons of videos showing the issues but they said those didn’t help. They said they needed it to replicate while they were driving which they could not get for some reason. I finally had tons get rid of it once the warranty ran out. I was not willing to be stuck with the cost of chasing those gremlins. It was so frustrating but I lived with it as long as I could because I lived my Jeep. I hope you get yours corrected.
I'm sorry to hear you had so many problems and that you had to give up your Jeep. My Gladiator is over 5 years old and has over 75k miles on it. This is the first I've had something like this happen and I have no doubts, it's in big part to how modified it is.
I had a Cadillac that did that. it would shut off electrically while driving or sitting at a red light. the dealership kept it for over a month and said the same thing that it has to happen to them to know what is wrong. so as soon as I drove it back of the lot, it did it again. waited couple minutes started back up and drove it right back to them. they had four people looking at it, then it happened while they were looking at it and still they claimed they didn't know what it was. I kept telling them it's the circuit board in the computer and they should start there but they never would do it.
Both my 2021 Jeep Rubicon and my 2024 Jeep Rubicon have been absolutely bulletproof. Not a single mechanical issue. But thank you for sharing this information!
@@myanime101 I’m glad you find it funny. When you take vehicles to their extreme limits in Moab Utah and they drive home getting over 20 miles per gallon without breaking anything or needing repairs… I called that bulletproof.
I had a similar issue with my 24 Willys and the auxiliary battery was bad. Also disconnecting the batteries reset the entire system and you were right about it taking 24hrs to completely reset. My dealership mechanic told me the same thing. My best guess would be the Tazer and that's why I won't buy one for my 24 392 "traded in my Willys". Always love seeing Ripley, great dog and beautiful.
Thank you for posting this. Seems like a lot more JL types are seeing electrical issues. We also had our 2018 JLU dash, speedo, infotainment, center stack all go dark while driving at night. Quite alarming to say the least. No solution and it hasn't done it since. I'm glad to see your video as you work through the problem. Keep us updated
Sucks that you had issues with your JL in the past. Since getting our first JL back in 2018 and 2 others since then and getting the 2 Gladiators that we still have, I can honestly say this is the very first time we've seen an issue like this. Hope I can get it fixed sooner than later.
my 2019 JLU rubicon had this electrical issue just recently, exactly the same issue, i thought it was my auxiliary battery that needed to replace, so i replaced my auxiliary battery, but the issue was not fixed.
Hey there thanks for posting this. I too have a ‘20 gladiator with the electrical gremlin. And yes I have replaced both batteries and checked all the electrical grounding points and whenever I have gone to the dealer they can’t find the issues. I have redone the Taser as well so hopefully the cambus will work for me as well as I’ve been chasing this issue for about a year now.
The hole electrical system is on a CAN system so that basically means when one thing goes than all sorts of stuff goes,needs to be plugged in to and go down the rabbit hole, great video guys love it !!!
I would agree with you that the blind spot unavailable could be a separate issue. I have a 21 JT with 35K on it and I get the same warning sometimes. It is fairly intermittent in fact I forgot about it until just now watching this video. Thank you for sharing!
@@artsohc Sadly my jeep doesn't get dirty, but I would agree it's likely a sensor development issue. Planning some trips this year to test the dirty sensor idea! I am sure when they are covered in mud it will be an issue!
Hello, thank you for your good channel. I had the same problem, not with a Jeep, but with a Ford F-150. It was the alternator socket. It was broken. Replacing it solved my problem. I hope I helped. Good luck and success.
Sorry to see you are having these problems. I hope you find all the issues. Glad to hear it is working somewhat better. Thanks for all your videos and keep up the good work! I watch your video about changing the aux battery and that helped me out. My aux battery was starting to go bad after 4 years 2 months. I got a warning light start/stop not available, service start/stop a week before Thanksgiving. So I change both batteries for the first time. I love my Gladiator, but hate this start/stop system with additional battery. I shut this system off every time I get into my Jeep! Love seeing your cute dog in the videos!
I had a similar problem earlier this year after an off-road event. Blind spot monitoring went out, "Shifter service" warning came on, power steering went out, auto start/stop went out, ABS, etc...Turned out to be an issue with the wiring harness connected to the swaybar disconnect motor. The insulation had been worn off the wires from making continues up/down contact with the radiator.
Okay, now that's something I should check for sure. I don't have my factory sway bar anymore and just tied up the connector. I wonder if maybe it got chafed and damaged. Thanks for the tip!
I had all electrical come in and off and lost power steering as the final issue. Was told it was a door hinge. That was replaced and almost a week later it started again. Speedo and gauges didn’t work, every electrical system came on and off, then lost power steering again. Not pleasant on my 35’s. They replaced the BCM Module…to control messaging to other electrical systems. Haven’t had an issue since. 🤞
Man I'm having same issues in my 2020 Gladiator. No dus, powersteering going out, can't turn off, can't turn on, all lights on dash going crazy. The dealer had it for 5 weeks & basically did nothing. I changed out the bus cam thing myself & it made a difference for about a day & half then started back with all the same issues. I have it at another shop as he is going through everything. I will pass on all yalls info & let yall know the results. Good luck to all.
@@jeremyterrell2225 good luck-literally everything you had-I did too. It’s been fine since but evidently that hinge error was throwing the BCM and others out of sync. Once both were replaced I was golden
That happened to my JL 2018 as well!!! Vehicle was manufactured in Detroit one of the few vehicles that was made in MI before they started using italian engines. I changed the canbus thats located behind the glove box. Ever since I changed the canbus vehicle hasnt been showing any flashlights. Mine included all sorts of warning signs as you mentioned above but most crucially the gear would lock and engine wouldnt run. Only possible solution was to turn off the vehicle and turn it back on. It was truly a nightmare. Swapping out the green canbus behind the glove box and it fixed my problems. As you also mentioned at the last part of the video my blind spot is also showing unavailable at times but it comes and goes every few months. I guess thats the life of owning a jeep? but I love the jeep. (currently at 95,000 miles and its running just fine)
@@wayalife I love how everyone has similar yet different problems :( Although, I do not have tail light problems, I been getting engine light with code P0456. I havent gotten for awhile but it comes back on and off. Just super bizarrre.
@@thomasdillon5133 my apologies the code that came out is NOT the P0456. I just got the P0401 EGR A Flow Insufficient Detected. Its been coming on and off for last 6 months. It would go away after I erase the code but it comes back after few hundred miles. I guess i need to clean the valves.....anyone else deal with this ?
Good luck with your electrical issues. What a PIA. No issue (yet) with my JL, but the display on my Grand Cherokee L will flash off & back on at random times. Things still seem to work fine, but it's a little disconcerting. Always love seeing Ripley in your posts. She is definitely smarter than most people. 😜
I wanna talk crap about Jeep so bad! But it’s not just jeeps . Basically all new cars have issues. I know it’s so frustrating. Thanks for the video! Happy new year
My 21 Wrangler is doing the same thing. Expect it’s saying check traction control, check shifter. I also have a tazer. I’m gonna try to update it as well. Thanks for the vid.
@ I’ll check that out thanks. 🙏 I get a check engine light and it lights up like a tree. I disconnect the negative boom it works again lol. I’m hoping it’s not the ecu.
Yeah, I double checked all the fuse block connections and all is good. As mentioned, things are "mostly" better now. I just have an issue with the passenger side tail light now fully working.
I experienced a similar issue with my 2020 Gladiator. After checking the fuse array that is attached to the driver side edge of the fuse box, like you I replaced the canhub. In my case that fixed the issue. I long for the days of simple vehicles. Thanks for the great videos and Happy New Year!
That's why Jeeps, Broncos, Scouts, etc used to be SIMPLE - because they're gonna go down bumpy roads, get rained on, and be out in the elements. Jeep lost their way when they went the luxury route with the Wrangler - those Mahindra Roxors are the only real Jeeps still being made.
Unplug and reconnect all your cam lock connectors, underneath the main fuse box, and one is by the lower radiator support, and several are on the motor, obviously disconnect your battery first. One of them has slightly dislodged from the jarring and now with the tension of the cam lock has partially reconnected. You can also use some electrical grease on each connector and rubber seal to help with the oxidation on the aluminum pins. While you’re at it check for wire chafing in those areas particularly around the frame areas. I suspect it’s the ones under the main fuse box.
I appreciate your input. For the most part, things are good with the exception of the passenger side rear tail light. I have been and I'm still tracing wires.
Great content as always. I know you just replaced your batteries but these electronics are funny if battery storage charge is not optimal. I'm not talking about voltage. Your battery might read 13+ volts but you can still have problems. My 21 Willy's sport had electrical gremlins like my climate controls would come on when starting my jeep, my clock would not hold the correct time over night. Jeep would run fine though. I tested my batteries. Volts were 12.4, battery health was 74% and charge was at 60%. My start stop hadn't worked in a couple years. I put batteries on a charger and all the problems cleared up. Batteries were 3 1/2 years old on mine so I did replace them. But I would put your batteries on a trickle charger over night to see if that helps your situation.
I appreciate your input and totally understand what you're saying. As I mentioned in the video, both batteries are only about 3 months old now and while I would be the first to admit that a lot of these problems can be caused by a dying auxiliary battery, I've been daily driving this Jeep and a LOT when this happened. I even tried temporarily deleting the auxiliary battery to see if it'd make a difference but it didn't. As I state in the video, the problems are mostly fixed now with the only one still being that the passenger side rear turn signal is still out.
I had this issue multiple times, multiple trips to the dealer when the gladiator was brand new about 2k miles. Initially dealer said it was a loose ground then on the way home from the dealer it happened again, and was towed right back. Dealer had it for about 45 days and eventually determined to be some loose wiring within the main wiring harness. Couldn’t visually see it, they had to disconnect the wiring to find it / test with the assistance of a Jeep engineer. Super frustrating but to their credit it was fixed and knock on wood solid since.
My first guess was a bad ground, but after you went through all of them I’m now thinking you might have a loose connector behind the dash. It has something to do with your rough off-roading. Good luck and keep us posted!
I had this problem and ran a scope on my canbus with an Autel OBD scanner. Found my canbus high was almost pulled to ground. Started searching for the culprit and it was the stupid sensor in my tail light had gotten condesation in it. Took me awhile but thank goodness my shop up the road had a good scanner that let me see modules or I would still be searching I believe.
To be honest, the sensor and tail light as a whole was suspect from the very start but I have since swapped it out with the one on my new Gladiator but still had the same problem with it not working.
@@wayalife I would say you may have another sensor on the bus. Get a scanner and look at the waveform on the bus. My dealer was suggesting a new wiring harness and for me the price of the harness sent me on the journey of finding my resloution. The scanner I borrowed from a friend was an Autel Pro and it allowed me to look at different modules, when it said my rear radio frequency system was not responding I went looking there and unplugged each tail light until the problem went away. Glad it was not a CVPM failure.
I had a similar issue years ago in a Ford Ranger, however, it did not have an info system, nor all of the other goody's that this Jeeps have now a days. The problem then was the number one spark plug had gotten a crack in it from off road horse-playing. Needless to say it caused all kinds of electrical problems. I hope your able to track down your problem and get it resolved ferly inexpensive. Good Luck...
Brutal Eddie! Hope you find it. I would be looking at the tail light connector and wires...then the blind-spot sensor wiring and connectors next. Ripley is so good!
I had similar problems. Dashboard and controls are blinking, gearshift will not work, engine shuts off, etc. You have to check main computer (we have checked all of them). This is factory fault, jeep computers are NOT properly sealed and in some of them were no silicone at all. As a consequence moisture is getting inside and processors are affected (mould builds up). We have to dry up computers, reseal them with silicone (where necessary). You have to note if the damage is severe, computer(s) have to be replaced. The procedure mentioned above saved me about $4000 in new tech. Your Gladiator runs ok for now, because computer dried up a little. Procedure was done a year ago and since then I have not had any problems. Hope this helps.
The remaining issue with the tail light you mentioned at 8:38 in the video I had with my 2022 JLU 392 and the cause was a corroded connection with the tail light. Mine was specifically the sub harness that went from the body harness to the tail light/BSM sensor and only found it when I upgraded to the oracle flush mounted tail lights, hope this helps with that 1/2 remaining issues with rear tail light/BSM unavailable messages.
I had a similar issue recently with my center stack glitching out. I pulled fuse 105 and reinserted after a couple minutes to "reset" that system and the problem went away. The only thing I changed prior was installing a Banks iDash, Derringer, and Pedal Monster. So far so good.
My Launch Edition has had a couple of episode similar to that. One of the worst ones was on a road trip to Moab. Simply disconnecting and reconnecting the batteries fixed it. The computers seem to self heal sometimes.
For the tail light and blind spot check your lamp and connections and then trace the wiring harness back for any damage. I say this because my wife got into an accident a few years ago during covid and the tail lights were on back order from jeep. The driver side tail lights had a crack in it but still worked so the body shop gave it back to us while we waited for the lamp. During that time the crack took in water and eventually caused all sorts of electrical gremlins like you are having now. I ended up buying a set of used oracles to hold us over which cleared the issue until we got the oems back
Believe me, what you're saying makes a lot of sense and I have since tried swapping out my tail light with one from my new Gladiator. Unfortunately, nothing changed.
Electrical problems can be tough to find. I was at a hotel in a wooded area once, and the morning I left I got a 4x4 fault warning on my dashboard. Dealer found that rodents had chewed the wiring because they like the soy based coating on the wires. I’m confident you will find the problem. Good luck.
19' JLU Rubicon. Same electrical problems plus loss of traction control, transmission shifting, wipers went crazy and power steering all while driving at any speed started this week. After a quick search for symptoms I initially diagnosed it as the CAN C buss same as you. Except, ground, continuity and voltage seemed good. So I figured why not replace it anyway to be sure because I didn't feel like randomly unplugging the control modules and searching for the problem (I can't get the problem to replicate itself at will, it's intermittent and my theory is at a certain milage point after disconnecting and clearing out codes). I've seen other people disconnect one module at a time from the buss to see if any are faulty. Theory is once faulty module is unplugged the symptoms resolve themselves. So I went to the dealership (only place to get the CAN C locally), lo and behold there is a recall for the powertrain module (which is connected to the CAN buss). They will replace it tomorrow and we'll see if that fixes the issue. I have between 50-80 codes throwing at any given time. I suppose I'm trying to say, for anyone having issue chat with Jeep and see if there is a recall before you deep dive, it may save you some headache.
As owner of renegade 2021 I also have sometimes electronic problems. Today was entertainment unit off and frozen for a couple of minutes. Usually those problems are cleared by themselves, sometimes car off/lock/on helps. Fiat quality is amazing!
@@wayalife so the last thing I did last weekend was to turn off the dash lights a couple of times while it was acting up and it stopped at that moment and so far this week it has not done it again...heading out to Ocotillo next weekend so we shall see
I am literally taking my 23 gladiator Mohave in this afternoon for same but not as se ere issues. Column / steering wheel controls will not operate volume on infotainment center when using remote start, preset auto on heat stopped working but works when you restart vehicle.. this could be interesting! Thank you and Happy New year!
Great Jeep stuff... Glad to hear it worked out in the end. I LOVE technology, but vehicle tech is such a money pit and it's not getting any better. But more pup videos please! What a pretty pup. My border collie had to be put down a few months ago prematurely and abruptly from cancer. You'll cherish having as many videos as you can possibly have. I know I don't have enough.
I am so sorry to hear about your loss. Ripley is our 2nd border collie, this after I swore I wouldn't get another. We have clips of her in a lot of our videos but will be sure to do more.
i had a odd problem with the stock Alpine subwoofer in my 2 door making that same electrical click, and traced it back to the fuse box under the hood, on the inside of it, one of the connectors underneath that the fuses push into was slightly loose and would wiggle around causing some strange static in the sub, tightened it up and cleaned the contacts and it all went away, you may have a similar thing going on since you where bouncing the jeep around, one of those connectors might be a little bit funk, mine was rattled loose from the 2 subs i added in, just shakes the jeep and rattles things loose
LOL - To be fair, this is the first problem we've had since getting this Gladiator back in 2019. As in, it's been 5 years and we've also racked up 75k miles on it. Not to mention, it's extremely modified and I would be the first to say that some of them may be the cause of this problem. Also, we've had no issues with our other Gladiator or any of the 3 JL Wranglers we've owned since they came out in 2018 or with the one we still own. But, the TJ is a great Jeep and I doubt you'd ever have anything like this go on with it.
@wayalife well I have had plenty go wrong with my tj lol. But I love the old girl. Just very simple. Love all your videos. Big fan here! Happy new years to you and your family!!!
Read almost all comments and no one mention pulling the fuse out of the fuse box under the hood to reset that system of just that primary fuse function. Let me explain, my batteries died on my JTR with 27,000 miles. Replace my batteries and started my Jeep and immediately noticed I had no console lights my air conditioner didn't work, and I had an message stating shifter service error. My shift was locked and couldn't be moved into reverse or drive so I had to hit the manual safety cord to pop it in neutral and tow it to a dealer. The senior mechanic came out to scan the system and referred to two fuses which were F25 & F105 which he pulled and reinstalled to reset that fuse in the system. Put 12,000 on it since and no issues so its worth a shot to find the tail light fuse and pull it to see if that corrects the issues and any others 🇺🇸
The JK used to have a set of ground connections on the driver and passenger side footwells behind a plastic cover. Do the JL/JT have something similar? Those grounds could be loose. With all the extra draws on the Jeeps electrical system, maybe upgrade grounds from the steel braided cables to a 0/2 gauge ground? I hate chasing down electrical gremlins (makes me think of old Bugs bunny cartoons with the Gremlin sabotaging US airplanes) but I’ve done this on a jK and it solved the the dash wigging out. Good luck and keep us posted.
LOL - that's about what it's like and I too hate chasing them. There are grounds long the fenders and on the frame rails and to the best of my knowledge, I've checked, cleaned and made sure they were all on tight. And, for the most part, like I say in the video, my problems are "mostly" better. The only thing I have still is the passenger side rear turn signal is still out.
I keep my 2020 Wrangler 3.6L on a trickle charger when not driving it. My electrical gremlins disappeared immediately. My Jeep is a weekend warrior, so I don’t know if it would help for daily driving, but it fixed my issues. Good luck.
@@wayalifeI do have it on a quick disconnect rather than alligator clips. While I still need to raise the hood to make the connection , you could extend the wires and put the quick connect where it is easy and quick to access, much like the way folks up North set up block heaters. It would still be a pain, and that one time you forget to disconnect it would not be cool. Thanks for the video.
I so feel for what you are going though. Launch Edition with similar issues. Always chasing codes. Related to your issue, I have replaced switches on the center console, which were stuck in "on" modes and locks other switches (even on the screen) from working. I am about at this point again. It seems I accumulate dirt behind the switches and things stick.
@@wayalife Yesterday the Rear Defroster button looked depressed without a light. This locked up the whole array of center switches, which worked again once I pried the button out flush with the others.
I had the same problem with my 19 Wrangler. Dealership had it in 3 times, for 3 weeks each time, and couldn't figure it out. I finally researched myself and found a youtube video with a guy having the same problem. One of the comments in the video a guy was saying replace the can-bus. So i did, and the Jeeps been good to go for over a year now. Crazy how dealership dont know how to fix this problem, which seem to be a common issue with Wranglers.
Just got my oil changed (23' JT Sport S) at the dealer, they said that there was a recall for the dash blacking out. They told me Jeep was still working on the remedy and I would get a notice as soon as they had a solution.
I had a similar issue when I first took my Gladiator home from the dealer. The dealer diagnosed the issue as a pin in a plug that was not fully seated in the plug, making intermittent contact.
Just had to replace the cam/bus module on my 2020 gladiator as well. Had all the same issues you were having, everything electronic was going haywire. Couldn’t shift out of park and the steering wheel would lock like the ignition was off while the vehicle was running as well it was crazy.
We had similar symptoms on our Gladiator Mojave. My wife came in telling me the Jeep was doing something funny. When I opened the hood to unhook the battery, the main battery was swollen and very hot to the touch. I had to use gloves to unhook it.
While it might have been the cause, things are better now. Not sure if the update did it or if that was just a coincidence. Either way, my Jeep is extremely modified and I need the Tazer to turn off all the stuff I no long have. If there were something else that could do that, I would definitely give it a try.
Yeah, did that and as I state in the video, my problems are mostly fixed. The one thing I haven't been able to get is the passenger side turn signal is still out.
@wayalife I caught another creator video of some electrical issues and it was a broken wire in the harness around the gas tank rear shock area. They was explaining how it didn't make sense but the way canBus communicates it can travel through other systems . So I other words you could have a reverse light short and cause the turn signal to malfunction 🤦♂️
Myself and two of my Jeep buddies had similar issues when one or both of the dumb jeep batteries were getting low. I finally deleted my aux battery, but even when the main battery started to go south electrical gremlins start. Replacing the battery solves it. The battery may still be starting the Jeep, but there's some point where the dip causes the craziness. Somehow Jeep never figured out how to get this solved. If you ask a dealer, they have no idea as usual.
As I state in the video, BOTH batteries are new and I just installed them 2 months ago. Also, this problem only started after a specific wheeling trip and as of now, it's mostly fixed. The only problem I still have is that the passenger side rear tail light doesn't always work.
Had a similar issue when we replaced our factory power steering pump with a PSC. The electrical connector that goes to the factory electric power steering pump has both CAN+, CAN- and Battery + and -. When it got wet, we would get a short to voltage where 12v power would short to the CAN freaking everything out. All that to say, throw a multimeter on the CAN bus when you are seeing the behavior and look for any abnormal CAN voltages which could indicate a short
Mine acted exactly the same once after I got caught in the rain with no top or doors on. It started acting up on the way home while driving in the rain. Once I got home I dried off everything in the interior, removed my Tazer and did an update and reinstalled it, and then everything was fine. I had installed a front camera prior to this and had cut a slit in the firewall grommet on the driver side to run the camera cable through and never sealed it up with silicone. I suspect that maybe rain got into that slit and ran down the camera wire and dripped on the Tazer, but that's just a guess. The dash got pretty wet, so maybe it just seeped in through the dash somewhere. That was the first time my Gladi ever saw rain.
Ripley is so smart, I would put her on the job to find those last gremlins in the Gladiator's electrical system! I bet all it would take for her to find the problem is a couple of licks on the wires! lol
We had same problem on our 21 jl I walked around and hit the taillights where the sensors are. Problem has been go e for months. I also removed tazer and reinstall the tpms settings and removed tazer so there's no live functions, also plugged the 2 harnesses back in Mt guess is they dont like the security bypassed good luck with yours hope it stops flipping out
We have a 2019 JLU that had 40+ codes. They replaced the dash wiring harness, power steering pump as the steering would go out. Also replaced the auxiliary battery. It's been about 6 months and no issues🤞
I had the same issue with my Jeep. I removed my Taser a few days before I was supposed to drop it off at the dealer and noticed that all my issues went away? I canceled my appointment and 5days later I reinstalled it after doing an update on it two days later it started up all over again. Since then, I took the teaser off. I’ve never put it back and I’ve not had a single issue.
The BlindSpot and Tail light can be the connector to the doors. If you take your doors on and off (or have just ever done it) and one of those pins gets just slightly bent it will throw and error because of the blindspot light in the mirror and then disable the entire blind spot monitoring because there is an error in just one part of the system. Easy to verify the pins and holes should all be clean and straight and not broken. When you say you have a tail light out you mean you hit the brakes and the tail light doesn't come on? Or just the blindspot part stops working?
I had something similar, although on my much older 1999 Tahoe. It has occurred twice (may years apart) and I have fixed it both times (spent an entire weekend the first time). It turned out to be a voltage drop at the ignition switch. Voltage after the switch was between 6-8V, instead of battery voltage. Disassembled faulty ignition switch contacts looked brand new. I think a similar voltage drop somewhere in the TIPM may be worth checking out. New ignition switch fixed the problem on both occasions.
Gremlins are the Worst… Good Luck tracking it down… Bummer about the Hot Lead, and not fixing the problem… We’ve all been there🤔… Made Me think of the day with Moby in your Gold Dust Rewards Mine video 🤔🤞🍻
Had a similar issue, but it went so far that it started affecting the power and even the power steering randomly shut down and wouldn't start and throwing codes. I ended up having to take it to the dealership. It was throwing 32 different and unrelated codes. The dealer was stumped and even called in someone from the factory who called the electronics engineer who designed the system. No one could figure it out. i was getting calls about swapping out my gladiator for a brand new one when the tech decided to just do an update to the 3 controller modules and the ecm,.... then it was fixed, I haven't had an issue since....
there is a know sevice issue I recieved several months ago that sounds just like what you described.....once i find it i will post back here... I do not recall if it was specific to 2020 JT's only I just recall once it starts happening it required serious dash work..
I was having a problem with my windshield wipers not turning off on my F150. While being serviced at the dealership the technician took the wiper switch apart and cleaned it. It had gotten some dust inside causing it to malfunction. It works great again.
for blind spot issue, I have the same. I was drilling in the back bumper to install a rear cam and it happened. I may have nicked it in the process. the radar sense wires.
Interesting. I’m getting the lights blinking on my wheel controls (cruise control on the right side and left side arrows) 2021 JLU. It’s very random. No issues (yet) on the infotainment or center stack. Thanks for this. Will keep monitoring. Might order the Can hub just in case. I was also going to adjust battery terminals and fuses. I don’t have a Tazer installed. So no third party causes. Fingers crossed. Could it be that by disconnecting the battery it reset everything? Still shouldn’t happen. Right!?
Disconnecting the battery will reset things and it can take a bit for everything to go back to normal. Your issue sounds like a loose wiring connection.
@ agreed. Thanks for the insight. Will try that. Thanks!! BTW this last summer was my first summer using your hard top hoist installation! It was amazing!! So easy m! I also installed the door hangers and it was so easy as well. Doors off is now a breeze. Incredible content as usual!!
Hey Eddie don't know if this is your issue but on my 2021 diesel I went over some rough terrain and a harness actually under the Jeep came loose from the clips that hold it where it was mounted and it fell on top of the exhaust causing it to melt giving me all sorts of crazy electrical issues. They weren't the same issues you were having but it's worth taking a look under the Jeep if the setup on the gas is just similar
Similar issue happened to my 19 JLUR 2.0L. Service shifter and other warning lights would go on and off intermittently. One time I lost power steering! Turned out to be a loose connection on the Canbus bar behind the glove box. I believe there are other Canbus hubs elsewhere on the vehicle that you could check. Also check for wires that could have been melted by engine/exhaust heat
I had the same issue in a wrangler. Wiring to the sway bar disconnect had a short in it from a zip tie I had holding it up. Not saying it’s it. But I would look over your wiring harness. 🤷♂️
I had some weird electrical issues on my 2021 Gladiator. Turns out that some of the wires/connections had corrosion. Examples included headlights, taillight, and a ground. Fixed the corrosion, issues resolved and haven't reappeared.
Have the doors been off? I've had similar issues like that when I reinstalled the doors and it didn't show up for a day or so after they were back on. It had a bent out of shape pin that was making intermittent contact causing all literal hell on the electrical system.
Thanks for sharing. The complexity of the electronics leads to all sorts of possibilities, some possibly being simply stray current. I’m wondering if you could remove the leads from the main battery and also the fuse array on the side of the fuse box and let it sit for an hour or so. Perhaps the mini voltage will bleed off?
Yeah, did that over night. Had the same problem. As I show and state in the video, thins are mostly better now. Not sure why but now, I just have the passenger side tail light as an issue.
At 47k on my 2022, I just experienced the first electrical issue related to the notorious rear Diff lock sensor and “lock engaged” light on the dash. Ordered the OEM sensor that mount inside the diff. Noticed the metallic shavings built up underneath it, as posted by others. Cleaned and replaced. It partially fixed the problem but then, the light on the dash started flashing again. So, I just did what everyone else recommended (a band aid solution IMO) and bought the Tazer piggyback dongle that connects between the axle and the wiring harness. BUT (!) while initially swapping out the axle sensor inside the diff, I pulled out the Connector that connects the wiring between the inside and the outside of the axle and took a good look… guess what I found (!) Gear oil seeping through this plastic connector -from inside the axle, through the connector and, literally - upstream on the wiring harness that is mounted outside of the axle. So I also ordered this plastic connector (avail on Quadra tech for about 25 bucks) and replaced it. (At the same time as installing the taser module) Problem is now 100% gone. Anyhow, I have a feeling chasing these types of issues will become the norm as the mileage goes up on my Gladiator. Hope I am wrong lol! Thanks for Sharing THIS issue, took notes and bookmarked the part number in case I run into the same thing. 😂
I have read that many elec. gremlins can be caused by loose fuses. Apparently it’s common to find movement in them. I had a few elec. issues recently that were solved by pushing down on every fuse. I had about 10 circuits that had about 1/16” movement! 🤞🏼
I have a 2020 Sahara mild hybrid, and when changing out the front battery (not the big one under the Jeep), I was told you must let the system normalize for a period so all the computer gear can re-acclimate. It needed a quiescent period of 2-4 hours after disconnecting both batteries. The fault may indeed have been the canbus.
You still have a voltergeist. It even said "ghost" on your display for a bit and Ripley plays with a monster! Lol. In all seriousness, the next thing I would check is the fuse box. With the battery disconnected, slightly remove and push down on all fuses and relays. Next, reseat harness connectors to things like computer control modules etc. Start under the hood. Test and try. Then under the dash etc. Disconnect the battery before doing these checks. Connectors that are exposed to moisture are more suspect. Do this before shotgunning more parts. Yes, you may have a computer module issue but it may actually only be a harness issue. Dirty connections are very possible and are much cheaper to fix. You could replace all your computers and it may fix the issue. However, you won't know if it was just a dirty connection of a simple harness that would have been a free fix just by reseating the connector. Disclaimer: Did I mention to disconnect the battery before doing stuff? If you have made it this far and you still have a voltergeist possession, grab a service manual and wave the book at your JT, threatening further action.
can't wait to see the update on this. also appreciate you filming the awkward stuff and sharing everything... it's nice to know these things happen to everyone!
Thanks for always showing us things others won’t. You always have the best content!
I am truly humbled that you would say as much and appreciate the kind words.
I had this exact same issue while on the Jeep badge trails out in Colorado. The fix for me was to tighten my fuse box bus bar, and to push down on all the fuses inside the fuse box under the hood. I found several of them that re-seated once pushed down.
Yeah, checked all the fuses as well as the bars under it. As mentioned, for the most part, things are better with the exception of the passenger side tail light.
@@wayalife I have seen on occasion a bulb that is intermittent and actually is bad but it works perfectly fine when at a standstill but the moment you drive and the vibrations from the road. Happened numerous times on our older 2003 Ram 1500 ,I found out one day as I was driving behind my wife and saw it flicker as she was pulling up to a stop sign, so I went and bought a cheap replacement Eiko solved the problem for about a week, then it was back, I was converting my 1992 Dodge Dakota over to full LED and I had a set of Sylvania Silverstars swapped it in, it never ever had that issue again. Would hurt to inspect the housing maybe a rodent has got a hold of some wiring.
Same fix here.
I am glad to know I am not the only person to have these gremlins!!
I had a brand new off the lot 2021 JLU and almost from day one I was having electrical issues, some of what you had and some others. I had 4 wheel drive issues as well. I had it in the dealership days at a time, which amounted to weeks over the three years I owned it. The dealer said they had folks at Jeep HQ trying to help diagnose and no luck. I had tons of videos showing the issues but they said those didn’t help. They said they needed it to replicate while they were driving which they could not get for some reason. I finally had tons get rid of it once the warranty ran out. I was not willing to be stuck with the cost of chasing those gremlins.
It was so frustrating but I lived with it as long as I could because I lived my Jeep.
I hope you get yours corrected.
I'm sorry to hear you had so many problems and that you had to give up your Jeep. My Gladiator is over 5 years old and has over 75k miles on it. This is the first I've had something like this happen and I have no doubts, it's in big part to how modified it is.
I had a Cadillac that did that. it would shut off electrically while driving or sitting at a red light.
the dealership kept it for over a month and said the same thing that it has to happen to them to know what is wrong.
so as soon as I drove it back of the lot, it did it again. waited couple minutes started back up and drove it right back to them. they had four people looking at it, then it happened while they were looking at it and still they claimed they didn't know what it was. I kept telling them it's the circuit board in the computer and they should start there but they never would do it.
My jeeps been in shop for 2 months for a bad differential. Lol
Both my 2021 Jeep Rubicon and my 2024 Jeep Rubicon have been absolutely bulletproof. Not a single mechanical issue. But thank you for sharing this information!
Glad to hear it. I do hope you never have any issues with them.
calling a 1 and 4 year old vehicles bullet proof is hilarious
@@myanime101 I’m glad you find it funny. When you take vehicles to their extreme limits in Moab Utah and they drive home getting over 20 miles per gallon without breaking anything or needing repairs… I called that bulletproof.
@DUNEATV thats pretty corny dude
@ 🌽
too bad about the electrical problems, but you have one great/smart dog. Love the videos.
LOL - happy to hear you enjoyed seeing Ripley.
Good to know. Hope my JL does not get those symptoms. Thanks for sharing.
Since the JL first came out back in 2018, we've owned 3 of them, still own a 392 and now own 2 Gladiators. This is the first we've seen this.
I had a similar issue with my 24 Willys and the auxiliary battery was bad. Also disconnecting the batteries reset the entire system and you were right about it taking 24hrs to completely reset. My dealership mechanic told me the same thing. My best guess would be the Tazer and that's why I won't buy one for my 24 392 "traded in my Willys". Always love seeing Ripley, great dog and beautiful.
I would so love to get rid of my Tazer but I need it to turn off all the systems I no longer have. Glad you enjoyed seeing Ripley.
Thank you for posting this. Seems like a lot more JL types are seeing electrical issues. We also had our 2018 JLU dash, speedo, infotainment, center stack all go dark while driving at night. Quite alarming to say the least. No solution and it hasn't done it since. I'm glad to see your video as you work through the problem. Keep us updated
Sucks that you had issues with your JL in the past. Since getting our first JL back in 2018 and 2 others since then and getting the 2 Gladiators that we still have, I can honestly say this is the very first time we've seen an issue like this. Hope I can get it fixed sooner than later.
my 2019 JLU rubicon had this electrical issue just recently, exactly the same issue, i thought it was my auxiliary battery that needed to replace, so i replaced my auxiliary battery, but the issue was not fixed.
Hey there thanks for posting this. I too have a ‘20 gladiator with the electrical gremlin. And yes I have replaced both batteries and checked all the electrical grounding points and whenever I have gone to the dealer they can’t find the issues. I have redone the Taser as well so hopefully the cambus will work for me as well as I’ve been chasing this issue for about a year now.
I'm sorry to hear you're having the same problem and I do hope the CANBUS will help out for you.
The hole electrical system is on a CAN system so that basically means when one thing goes than all sorts of stuff goes,needs to be plugged in to and go down the rabbit hole, great video guys love it !!!
Thanks for sharing, always appreciate the content- need to send Rippley in to get the electrical gremlin.
🤣 She would probably fix it too.
Good idea plugging in each connector as you went when swapping out the circuit. At first I was thinking o crap that's about to be a mess!
LOL
I would agree with you that the blind spot unavailable could be a separate issue. I have a 21 JT with 35K on it and I get the same warning sometimes. It is fairly intermittent in fact I forgot about it until just now watching this video. Thank you for sharing!
LOL - sorry to hear you have the same problem but glad you enjoyed the video.
I get the same issue and find it goes away when I wash my 2020 Rubicon, I think the sensors give the warning when they are dirty.
@@artsohc Sadly my jeep doesn't get dirty, but I would agree it's likely a sensor development issue. Planning some trips this year to test the dirty sensor idea! I am sure when they are covered in mud it will be an issue!
Hello, thank you for your good channel.
I had the same problem, not with a Jeep, but with a Ford F-150.
It was the alternator socket. It was broken. Replacing it solved my problem.
I hope I helped.
Good luck and success.
Glad you were able to fix your problem and I appreciate it.
Sorry to see you are having these problems. I hope you find all the issues. Glad to hear it is working somewhat better. Thanks for all your videos and keep up the good work! I watch your video about changing the aux battery and that helped me out. My aux battery was starting to go bad after 4 years 2 months. I got a warning light start/stop not available, service start/stop a week before Thanksgiving. So I change both batteries for the first time. I love my Gladiator, but hate this start/stop system with additional battery. I shut this system off every time I get into my Jeep! Love seeing your cute dog in the videos!
I appreciate it and happy to hear our videos are helpful to you. Also glad that you enjoyed seeing Ripley :)
We just gonna gloss over the fact that this man actually has a 10mm socket? I haven’t seen mine since ‘03!
🤣
No kidding 😵💫
Right!! Guy a Tekton told me I should be on a subscription 😞
I never did get that joke
I feel for you, trying to troubleshoot intermittent electrical issues is very difficult! I’ll be holding on to my 2011 Sahara as long as I can.
There are benefits to not having so much computer and electronic stuff going on.
I had a similar problem earlier this year after an off-road event. Blind spot monitoring went out, "Shifter service" warning came on, power steering went out, auto start/stop went out, ABS, etc...Turned out to be an issue with the wiring harness connected to the swaybar disconnect motor. The insulation had been worn off the wires from making continues up/down contact with the radiator.
Okay, now that's something I should check for sure. I don't have my factory sway bar anymore and just tied up the connector. I wonder if maybe it got chafed and damaged. Thanks for the tip!
@@wayalife
I had all electrical come in and off and lost power steering as the final issue. Was told it was a door hinge. That was replaced and almost a week later it started again. Speedo and gauges didn’t work, every electrical system came on and off, then lost power steering again. Not pleasant on my 35’s. They replaced the BCM Module…to control messaging to other electrical systems. Haven’t had an issue since. 🤞
Man I'm having same issues in my 2020 Gladiator. No dus, powersteering going out, can't turn off, can't turn on, all lights on dash going crazy. The dealer had it for 5 weeks & basically did nothing. I changed out the bus cam thing myself & it made a difference for about a day & half then started back with all the same issues. I have it at another shop as he is going through everything. I will pass on all yalls info & let yall know the results. Good luck to all.
@@jeremyterrell2225 good luck-literally everything you had-I did too. It’s been fine since but evidently that hinge error was throwing the BCM and others out of sync. Once both were replaced I was golden
Thanks for the updates!
You bet. Hope they're something you never have to deal with.
Rippleys back! A good ending to a video that left with questions unanswered and not fixed. Good luck with the jeep though.
Thank you for the well wishes and glad you enjoyed seeing Ripley.
That happened to my JL 2018 as well!!! Vehicle was manufactured in Detroit one of the few vehicles that was made in MI before they started using italian engines. I changed the canbus thats located behind the glove box. Ever since I changed the canbus vehicle hasnt been showing any flashlights. Mine included all sorts of warning signs as you mentioned above but most crucially the gear would lock and engine wouldnt run. Only possible solution was to turn off the vehicle and turn it back on. It was truly a nightmare. Swapping out the green canbus behind the glove box and it fixed my problems. As you also mentioned at the last part of the video my blind spot is also showing unavailable at times but it comes and goes every few months. I guess thats the life of owning a jeep? but I love the jeep. (currently at 95,000 miles and its running just fine)
As of now, the only problem that I still have is with the passenger side tail light.
@@wayalife I love how everyone has similar yet different problems :( Although, I do not have tail light problems, I been getting engine light with code P0456. I havent gotten for awhile but it comes back on and off. Just super bizarrre.
@@j.christopherchang1668 Make sure when tightening the gas cap you do at lease 3 clicks.
@@thomasdillon5133 my apologies the code that came out is NOT the P0456. I just got the P0401 EGR A Flow Insufficient Detected. Its been coming on and off for last 6 months. It would go away after I erase the code but it comes back after few hundred miles. I guess i need to clean the valves.....anyone else deal with this ?
Good luck with your electrical issues. What a PIA. No issue (yet) with my JL, but the display on my Grand Cherokee L will flash off & back on at random times. Things still seem to work fine, but it's a little disconcerting. Always love seeing Ripley in your posts. She is definitely smarter than most people. 😜
Thank you and glad you enjoyed seeing Ripley.
I’m having the “system starting” reboot issue with my Cherokee L too 😑
I wanna talk crap about Jeep so bad! But it’s not just jeeps . Basically all new cars have issues. I know it’s so frustrating. Thanks for the video! Happy new year
LOL - you can talk crap about Jeeps but you are right, I see things like this on every make. Hope you have a very Happy New Year 😎
My 21 Wrangler is doing the same thing. Expect it’s saying check traction control, check shifter. I also have a tazer. I’m gonna try to update it as well. Thanks for the vid.
Traction control issues are typically associated with your steering wheel not being 100% centered or is a problem with a speed sensor.
@ I’ll check that out thanks. 🙏 I get a check engine light and it lights up like a tree. I disconnect the negative boom it works again lol. I’m hoping it’s not the ecu.
I had a similar problem after installing dual batteries, plugs under fuse block were not seated fully. Great channel!😊
Yeah, I double checked all the fuse block connections and all is good. As mentioned, things are "mostly" better now. I just have an issue with the passenger side tail light now fully working.
I experienced a similar issue with my 2020 Gladiator. After checking the fuse array that is attached to the driver side edge of the fuse box, like you I replaced the canhub. In my case that fixed the issue. I long for the days of simple vehicles. Thanks for the great videos and Happy New Year!
Glad you were able to get your problem fixed. With the exception of my passenger tail light, things seem to be a lot better.
That's why Jeeps, Broncos, Scouts, etc used to be SIMPLE - because they're gonna go down bumpy roads, get rained on, and be out in the elements.
Jeep lost their way when they went the luxury route with the Wrangler - those Mahindra Roxors are the only real Jeeps still being made.
Unplug and reconnect all your cam lock connectors, underneath the main fuse box, and one is by the lower radiator support, and several are on the motor, obviously disconnect your battery first. One of them has slightly dislodged from the jarring and now with the tension of the cam lock has partially reconnected. You can also use some electrical grease on each connector and rubber seal to help with the oxidation on the aluminum pins. While you’re at it check for wire chafing in those areas particularly around the frame areas. I suspect it’s the ones under the main fuse box.
I appreciate your input. For the most part, things are good with the exception of the passenger side rear tail light. I have been and I'm still tracing wires.
Wow, nice video 👍
Glad you liked it and hope it helps others out.
Great content as always. I know you just replaced your batteries but these electronics are funny if battery storage charge is not optimal. I'm not talking about voltage. Your battery might read 13+ volts but you can still have problems. My 21 Willy's sport had electrical gremlins like my climate controls would come on when starting my jeep, my clock would not hold the correct time over night. Jeep would run fine though. I tested my batteries. Volts were 12.4, battery health was 74% and charge was at 60%. My start stop hadn't worked in a couple years. I put batteries on a charger and all the problems cleared up. Batteries were 3 1/2 years old on mine so I did replace them. But I would put your batteries on a trickle charger over night to see if that helps your situation.
I appreciate your input and totally understand what you're saying. As I mentioned in the video, both batteries are only about 3 months old now and while I would be the first to admit that a lot of these problems can be caused by a dying auxiliary battery, I've been daily driving this Jeep and a LOT when this happened. I even tried temporarily deleting the auxiliary battery to see if it'd make a difference but it didn't. As I state in the video, the problems are mostly fixed now with the only one still being that the passenger side rear turn signal is still out.
Always great informative videos. Happy New Year. Hoping to see a New Year’s video. 🎉
Thanks and you too!
I had this issue multiple times, multiple trips to the dealer when the gladiator was brand new about 2k miles. Initially dealer said it was a loose ground then on the way home from the dealer it happened again, and was towed right back. Dealer had it for about 45 days and eventually determined to be some loose wiring within the main wiring harness. Couldn’t visually see it, they had to disconnect the wiring to find it / test with the assistance of a Jeep engineer. Super frustrating but to their credit it was fixed and knock on wood solid since.
Glad to hear you were able to get your problem fixed.
My first guess was a bad ground, but after you went through all of them I’m now thinking you might have a loose connector behind the dash. It has something to do with your rough off-roading. Good luck and keep us posted!
Will do
I had this problem and ran a scope on my canbus with an Autel OBD scanner. Found my canbus high was almost pulled to ground. Started searching for the culprit and it was the stupid sensor in my tail light had gotten condesation in it. Took me awhile but thank goodness my shop up the road had a good scanner that let me see modules or I would still be searching I believe.
To be honest, the sensor and tail light as a whole was suspect from the very start but I have since swapped it out with the one on my new Gladiator but still had the same problem with it not working.
@@wayalife I would say you may have another sensor on the bus. Get a scanner and look at the waveform on the bus. My dealer was suggesting a new wiring harness and for me the price of the harness sent me on the journey of finding my resloution.
The scanner I borrowed from a friend was an Autel Pro and it allowed me to look at different modules, when it said my rear radio frequency system was not responding I went looking there and unplugged each tail light until the problem went away. Glad it was not a CVPM failure.
I had a similar issue years ago in a Ford Ranger, however, it did not have an info system, nor all of the other goody's that this Jeeps have now a days. The problem then was the number one spark plug had gotten a crack in it from off road horse-playing. Needless to say it caused all kinds of electrical problems. I hope your able to track down your problem and get it resolved ferly inexpensive. Good Luck...
good video sorry about your problem
LOL - glad you enjoyed the video and appreciate the sympathy.
Brutal Eddie! Hope you find it.
I would be looking at the tail light connector and wires...then the blind-spot sensor wiring and connectors next.
Ripley is so good!
Yeah, I've done that even went so far as to swap tail lights with my other Gladiator. No change.
Good luck with it sir
Thanks, I think I could use it.
I had similar problems. Dashboard and controls are blinking, gearshift will not work, engine shuts off, etc. You have to check main computer (we have checked all of them). This is factory fault, jeep computers are NOT properly sealed and in some of them were no silicone at all. As a consequence moisture is getting inside and processors are affected (mould builds up). We have to dry up computers, reseal them with silicone (where necessary). You have to note if the damage is severe, computer(s) have to be replaced. The procedure mentioned above saved me about $4000 in new tech. Your Gladiator runs ok for now, because computer dried up a little. Procedure was done a year ago and since then I have not had any problems. Hope this helps.
I will definitely be checking this out. Thanks for the input!
Thanks for this information
Hope it's something you never have to use.
@@wayalife I have a 22 Mojave. So I always wonder how Robust the Electronics are.
The remaining issue with the tail light you mentioned at 8:38 in the video I had with my 2022 JLU 392 and the cause was a corroded connection with the tail light. Mine was specifically the sub harness that went from the body harness to the tail light/BSM sensor and only found it when I upgraded to the oracle flush mounted tail lights, hope this helps with that 1/2 remaining issues with rear tail light/BSM unavailable messages.
I appreciate the input
Hope this helps clear the remaining issues
I had a similar issue recently with my center stack glitching out. I pulled fuse 105 and reinserted after a couple minutes to "reset" that system and the problem went away. The only thing I changed prior was installing a Banks iDash, Derringer, and Pedal Monster. So far so good.
Things are working better for me now but if they start acting up again, I'll give that a try.
My Launch Edition has had a couple of episode similar to that. One of the worst ones was on a road trip to Moab. Simply disconnecting and reconnecting the batteries fixed it. The computers seem to self heal sometimes.
Appreciate the input but I tried that and it did nothing. As I show and state in the video, things are "mostly" better now.
Same
For the tail light and blind spot check your lamp and connections and then trace the wiring harness back for any damage.
I say this because my wife got into an accident a few years ago during covid and the tail lights were on back order from jeep. The driver side tail lights had a crack in it but still worked so the body shop gave it back to us while we waited for the lamp. During that time the crack took in water and eventually caused all sorts of electrical gremlins like you are having now.
I ended up buying a set of used oracles to hold us over which cleared the issue until we got the oems back
Believe me, what you're saying makes a lot of sense and I have since tried swapping out my tail light with one from my new Gladiator. Unfortunately, nothing changed.
Electrical problems can be tough to find. I was at a hotel in a wooded area once, and the morning I left I got a 4x4 fault warning on my dashboard. Dealer found that rodents had chewed the wiring because they like the soy based coating on the wires. I’m confident you will find the problem. Good luck.
Damn mice, I hate them. I've definitely had to deal with that before but this isn't one of those times. That said, thank you.
19' JLU Rubicon. Same electrical problems plus loss of traction control, transmission shifting, wipers went crazy and power steering all while driving at any speed started this week. After a quick search for symptoms I initially diagnosed it as the CAN C buss same as you. Except, ground, continuity and voltage seemed good. So I figured why not replace it anyway to be sure because I didn't feel like randomly unplugging the control modules and searching for the problem (I can't get the problem to replicate itself at will, it's intermittent and my theory is at a certain milage point after disconnecting and clearing out codes). I've seen other people disconnect one module at a time from the buss to see if any are faulty. Theory is once faulty module is unplugged the symptoms resolve themselves. So I went to the dealership (only place to get the CAN C locally), lo and behold there is a recall for the powertrain module (which is connected to the CAN buss). They will replace it tomorrow and we'll see if that fixes the issue. I have between 50-80 codes throwing at any given time. I suppose I'm trying to say, for anyone having issue chat with Jeep and see if there is a recall before you deep dive, it may save you some headache.
Love your puppy.
LOL - Ripley says thank you :)
That sucks! I had weird electrical problems and the Canbus connector is what fixed it.
Yeah, that does seem to be the consensus.
As owner of renegade 2021 I also have sometimes electronic problems. Today was entertainment unit off and frozen for a couple of minutes. Usually those problems are cleared by themselves, sometimes car off/lock/on helps. Fiat quality is amazing!
I had this same problem on 2018 wrangler. I have a tazer, updated it ahead of time. I changed that bus adapter and it’s been a year, no problems.
Glad to hear that was the fix for you.
I have the exact same issue on my 2020 JT...driving me nuts trying to figure it out...ps LOVE YOUR DOG!!!
Damn, that sucks. I was hoping someone could tell me how to fix this. And, happy to hear you like seeing Ripley.
@@wayalife so the last thing I did last weekend was to turn off the dash lights a couple of times while it was acting up and it stopped at that moment and so far this week it has not done it again...heading out to Ocotillo next weekend so we shall see
Had the same issue. I traced it back to a short in the head unit. Replaced it, haven’t had the issue for over a year now
I am literally taking my 23 gladiator Mohave in this afternoon for same but not as se ere issues. Column / steering wheel controls will not operate volume on infotainment center when using remote start, preset auto on heat stopped working but works when you restart vehicle.. this could be interesting! Thank you and Happy New year!
I hope they're able to get it fixed for you.
Great Jeep stuff... Glad to hear it worked out in the end. I LOVE technology, but vehicle tech is such a money pit and it's not getting any better.
But more pup videos please! What a pretty pup.
My border collie had to be put down a few months ago prematurely and abruptly from cancer. You'll cherish having as many videos as you can possibly have. I know I don't have enough.
I am so sorry to hear about your loss. Ripley is our 2nd border collie, this after I swore I wouldn't get another. We have clips of her in a lot of our videos but will be sure to do more.
Awesome Outstanding job thanks
i had a odd problem with the stock Alpine subwoofer in my 2 door making that same electrical click, and traced it back to the fuse box under the hood, on the inside of it, one of the connectors underneath that the fuses push into was slightly loose and would wiggle around causing some strange static in the sub, tightened it up and cleaned the contacts and it all went away, you may have a similar thing going on since you where bouncing the jeep around, one of those connectors might be a little bit funk, mine was rattled loose from the 2 subs i added in, just shakes the jeep and rattles things loose
Thanks for the tip, I'll definitely give that a look!
You just talked me into keeping my tj.
LOL - To be fair, this is the first problem we've had since getting this Gladiator back in 2019. As in, it's been 5 years and we've also racked up 75k miles on it. Not to mention, it's extremely modified and I would be the first to say that some of them may be the cause of this problem. Also, we've had no issues with our other Gladiator or any of the 3 JL Wranglers we've owned since they came out in 2018 or with the one we still own. But, the TJ is a great Jeep and I doubt you'd ever have anything like this go on with it.
@wayalife well I have had plenty go wrong with my tj lol. But I love the old girl. Just very simple. Love all your videos. Big fan here! Happy new years to you and your family!!!
Read almost all comments and no one mention pulling the fuse out of the fuse box under the hood to reset that system of just that primary fuse function. Let me explain, my batteries died on my JTR with 27,000 miles. Replace my batteries and started my Jeep and immediately noticed I had no console lights my air conditioner didn't work, and I had an message stating shifter service error. My shift was locked and couldn't be moved into reverse or drive so I had to hit the manual safety cord to pop it in neutral and tow it to a dealer. The senior mechanic came out to scan the system and referred to two fuses which were F25 & F105 which he pulled and reinstalled to reset that fuse in the system. Put 12,000 on it since and no issues so its worth a shot to find the tail light fuse and pull it to see if that corrects the issues and any others 🇺🇸
Well, I would pull the fuse for my passenger side tail light to do just that but to the best of my knowledge, there isn't one.
@wayalife Not sure if this is specified for tail lights.But it does state
F26 fuse exterior lights 1
F29 fuse exterior lights 2
The JK used to have a set of ground connections on the driver and passenger side footwells behind a plastic cover. Do the JL/JT have something similar? Those grounds could be loose.
With all the extra draws on the Jeeps electrical system, maybe upgrade grounds from the steel braided cables to a 0/2 gauge ground? I hate chasing down electrical gremlins (makes me think of old Bugs bunny cartoons with the Gremlin sabotaging US airplanes) but I’ve done this on a jK and it solved the the dash wigging out.
Good luck and keep us posted.
LOL - that's about what it's like and I too hate chasing them. There are grounds long the fenders and on the frame rails and to the best of my knowledge, I've checked, cleaned and made sure they were all on tight. And, for the most part, like I say in the video, my problems are "mostly" better. The only thing I have still is the passenger side rear turn signal is still out.
I keep my 2020 Wrangler 3.6L on a trickle charger when not driving it. My electrical gremlins disappeared immediately. My Jeep is a weekend warrior, so I don’t know if it would help for daily driving, but it fixed my issues. Good luck.
That's what I would do too if it weren't for the fact that I daily drive this Gladiator.
@@wayalifeI do have it on a quick disconnect rather than alligator clips. While I still need to raise the hood to make the connection , you could extend the wires and put the quick connect where it is easy and quick to access, much like the way folks up North set up block heaters. It would still be a pain, and that one time you forget to disconnect it would not be cool.
Thanks for the video.
I was having weird problems with my JL. Removing the Tazer resolved my problems.
I may have to try that but so far, things are a lot better.
I so feel for what you are going though. Launch Edition with similar issues. Always chasing codes. Related to your issue, I have replaced switches on the center console, which were stuck in "on" modes and locks other switches (even on the screen) from working. I am about at this point again. It seems I accumulate dirt behind the switches and things stick.
Well that sucks. I hope you're able to get things fixed.
@@wayalife Yesterday the Rear Defroster button looked depressed without a light. This locked up the whole array of center switches, which worked again once I pried the button out flush with the others.
I had the same problem with my 19 Wrangler. Dealership had it in 3 times, for 3 weeks each time, and couldn't figure it out. I finally researched myself and found a youtube video with a guy having the same problem. One of the comments in the video a guy was saying replace the can-bus. So i did, and the Jeeps been good to go for over a year now. Crazy how dealership dont know how to fix this problem, which seem to be a common issue with Wranglers.
LOL - yep, I typically don't take my Jeep to the dealership and mainly because of things like that. Glad you were able to get your problem fixed.
Just got my oil changed (23' JT Sport S) at the dealer, they said that there was a recall for the dash blacking out. They told me Jeep was still working on the remedy and I would get a notice as soon as they had a solution.
I've had a few people say as much as well.
I had a similar issue when I first took my Gladiator home from the dealer. The dealer diagnosed the issue as a pin in a plug that was not fully seated in the plug, making intermittent contact.
Yup, been checking all my connections. So far, everything looks good and as I note in the video, things are already a lot better. But thanks.
Just had to replace the cam/bus module on my 2020 gladiator as well. Had all the same issues you were having, everything electronic was going haywire. Couldn’t shift out of park and the steering wheel would lock like the ignition was off while the vehicle was running as well it was crazy.
Damn, that sucks and it sounds like you had it worse than me.
To add to my comment it did fix my issues. I hope you find your problem and the fix for it bud. Love the channel!!
We had similar symptoms on our Gladiator Mojave. My wife came in telling me the Jeep was doing something funny. When I opened the hood to unhook the battery, the main battery was swollen and very hot to the touch. I had to use gloves to unhook it.
its the tazer mini, i stopped using mine several months ago and have not had any issues after.
While it might have been the cause, things are better now. Not sure if the update did it or if that was just a coincidence. Either way, my Jeep is extremely modified and I need the Tazer to turn off all the stuff I no long have. If there were something else that could do that, I would definitely give it a try.
Check your High amp fuse array at the fuse box . Check for a blown fuse or a loose connection. I hope this helps . Also check for fuse box separation.
Yeah, did that and as I state in the video, my problems are mostly fixed. The one thing I haven't been able to get is the passenger side turn signal is still out.
@wayalife I caught another creator video of some electrical issues and it was a broken wire in the harness around the gas tank rear shock area. They was explaining how it didn't make sense but the way canBus communicates it can travel through other systems . So I other words you could have a reverse light short and cause the turn signal to malfunction 🤦♂️
Just trying to give some support and suggestions
I appreciate the support and suggestions. I am literally looking for and checking everything that I can.
Myself and two of my Jeep buddies had similar issues when one or both of the dumb jeep batteries were getting low. I finally deleted my aux battery, but even when the main battery started to go south electrical gremlins start. Replacing the battery solves it. The battery may still be starting the Jeep, but there's some point where the dip causes the craziness. Somehow Jeep never figured out how to get this solved. If you ask a dealer, they have no idea as usual.
As I state in the video, BOTH batteries are new and I just installed them 2 months ago. Also, this problem only started after a specific wheeling trip and as of now, it's mostly fixed. The only problem I still have is that the passenger side rear tail light doesn't always work.
Well stated. It is a fact these JL JT platforms are very prone to electrical issues generally caused by the battery
Keep us updates
Had a similar issue when we replaced our factory power steering pump with a PSC. The electrical connector that goes to the factory electric power steering pump has both CAN+, CAN- and Battery + and -. When it got wet, we would get a short to voltage where 12v power would short to the CAN freaking everything out. All that to say, throw a multimeter on the CAN bus when you are seeing the behavior and look for any abnormal CAN voltages which could indicate a short
Yeah, I've had a few people say the same thing. I plan on giving everything another look.
Mine acted exactly the same once after I got caught in the rain with no top or doors on. It started acting up on the way home while driving in the rain. Once I got home I dried off everything in the interior, removed my Tazer and did an update and reinstalled it, and then everything was fine. I had installed a front camera prior to this and had cut a slit in the firewall grommet on the driver side to run the camera cable through and never sealed it up with silicone. I suspect that maybe rain got into that slit and ran down the camera wire and dripped on the Tazer, but that's just a guess. The dash got pretty wet, so maybe it just seeped in through the dash somewhere. That was the first time my Gladi ever saw rain.
Glad you were able to get your problem fixed.
The Tazer is real suspect. I have one and no issues so far but my friend gets some weird problems sometimes. I’m keeping an eye on mine.
I am kind of suspect about it too. I don't know if it was the new CAN hub or updating the Tazer but things are "mostly" better now.
Ripley is so smart, I would put her on the job to find those last gremlins in the Gladiator's electrical system! I bet all it would take for her to find the problem is a couple of licks on the wires! lol
LOL - you're probably right 😁
We had same problem on our 21 jl I walked around and hit the taillights where the sensors are. Problem has been go e for months. I also removed tazer and reinstall the tpms settings and removed tazer so there's no live functions, also plugged the 2 harnesses back in Mt guess is they dont like the security bypassed good luck with yours hope it stops flipping out
Like I say in the video, things are mostly better and no longer flipping out. Just the passenger tail light is still not 100%. But thank you.
We have a 2019 JLU that had 40+ codes. They replaced the dash wiring harness, power steering pump as the steering would go out. Also replaced the auxiliary battery. It's been about 6 months and no issues🤞
Glad to hear you were able to get your problem fixed.
A scary problem to have in a new vehicle. It seems like it's a ghost of YJ dash problems past. Good luck and I hope you find the issue.
Well, it's not really that new. We bought it back in 2019 and have over 75k miles on it now but thanks :)
I had the same issue with my Jeep. I removed my Taser a few days before I was supposed to drop it off at the dealer and noticed that all my issues went away? I canceled my appointment and 5days later I reinstalled it after doing an update on it two days later it started up all over again. Since then, I took the teaser off. I’ve never put it back and I’ve not had a single issue.
I've read more than a few people say something similar.
The BlindSpot and Tail light can be the connector to the doors. If you take your doors on and off (or have just ever done it) and one of those pins gets just slightly bent it will throw and error because of the blindspot light in the mirror and then disable the entire blind spot monitoring because there is an error in just one part of the system. Easy to verify the pins and holes should all be clean and straight and not broken.
When you say you have a tail light out you mean you hit the brakes and the tail light doesn't come on? Or just the blindspot part stops working?
I had something similar, although on my much older 1999 Tahoe. It has occurred twice (may years apart) and I have fixed it both times (spent an entire weekend the first time). It turned out to be a voltage drop at the ignition switch. Voltage after the switch was between 6-8V, instead of battery voltage. Disassembled faulty ignition switch contacts looked brand new. I think a similar voltage drop somewhere in the TIPM may be worth checking out. New ignition switch fixed the problem on both occasions.
Gremlins are the Worst… Good Luck tracking it down… Bummer about the Hot Lead, and not fixing the problem… We’ve all been there🤔… Made Me think of the day with Moby in your Gold Dust Rewards Mine video 🤔🤞🍻
Yep, all this kind of reminds me of that too LOL
Had a similar issue, but it went so far that it started affecting the power and even the power steering randomly shut down and wouldn't start and throwing codes. I ended up having to take it to the dealership. It was throwing 32 different and unrelated codes. The dealer was stumped and even called in someone from the factory who called the electronics engineer who designed the system. No one could figure it out. i was getting calls about swapping out my gladiator for a brand new one when the tech decided to just do an update to the 3 controller modules and the ecm,.... then it was fixed, I haven't had an issue since....
there is a know sevice issue I recieved several months ago that sounds just like what you described.....once i find it i will post back here... I do not recall if it was specific to 2020 JT's only I just recall once it starts happening it required serious dash work..
I'd appreciate anything you can find and share.
TH-cam video from TK’s garage from 3 months ago covers this issue and possible recall from Stellantis
I was having a problem with my windshield wipers not turning off on my F150. While being serviced at the dealership the technician took the wiper switch apart and cleaned it. It had gotten some dust inside causing it to malfunction. It works great again.
for blind spot issue, I have the same. I was drilling in the back bumper to install a rear cam and it happened. I may have nicked it in the process. the radar sense wires.
That kind of stuff drives me crazy! 😢😢
LOL - you and me both
Interesting. I’m getting the lights blinking on my wheel controls (cruise control on the right side and left side arrows) 2021 JLU. It’s very random. No issues (yet) on the infotainment or center stack. Thanks for this. Will keep monitoring. Might order the Can hub just in case. I was also going to adjust battery terminals and fuses. I don’t have a Tazer installed. So no third party causes. Fingers crossed. Could it be that by disconnecting the battery it reset everything? Still shouldn’t happen. Right!?
Disconnecting the battery will reset things and it can take a bit for everything to go back to normal. Your issue sounds like a loose wiring connection.
@ agreed. Thanks for the insight. Will try that. Thanks!! BTW this last summer was my first summer using your hard top hoist installation! It was amazing!! So easy m! I also installed the door hangers and it was so easy as well. Doors off is now a breeze. Incredible content as usual!!
@@Raz_Peach Glad to hear our videos have been helpful to you.
Raz_Peach. Does your flashing light issue only occur when headlights are turned on. I am having same issue but only if headlights are on??
Keep us updated on source of problem and final resolution.
Yeah, for sure. I'll keep you guys posted.
Hey Eddie don't know if this is your issue but on my 2021 diesel I went over some rough terrain and a harness actually under the Jeep came loose from the clips that hold it where it was mounted and it fell on top of the exhaust causing it to melt giving me all sorts of crazy electrical issues. They weren't the same issues you were having but it's worth taking a look under the Jeep if the setup on the gas is just similar
I appreciate the note. I'll give things a harder look.
Chasing gremlins is tough work.
I really do hate all the electronics in these new Jeeps.
Similar issue happened to my 19 JLUR 2.0L. Service shifter and other warning lights would go on and off intermittently. One time I lost power steering! Turned out to be a loose connection on the Canbus bar behind the glove box. I believe there are other Canbus hubs elsewhere on the vehicle that you could check. Also check for wires that could have been melted by engine/exhaust heat
Yup, giving everything a look. So far, things are a lot better.
I had the same issue in a wrangler. Wiring to the sway bar disconnect had a short in it from a zip tie I had holding it up. Not saying it’s it. But I would look over your wiring harness. 🤷♂️
Thanks for the tip, I'll definitely take a look.
I had some weird electrical issues on my 2021 Gladiator. Turns out that some of the wires/connections had corrosion. Examples included headlights, taillight, and a ground. Fixed the corrosion, issues resolved and haven't reappeared.
Living in Nevada, corrosion isn't something we get a whole lot of but I will try and give everything a closer look.
@@wayalife It's usually not an issue here, especially where the corrosion was found. Never had headlights lead to electrical issues.
Goodluck.
Have the doors been off? I've had similar issues like that when I reinstalled the doors and it didn't show up for a day or so after they were back on. It had a bent out of shape pin that was making intermittent contact causing all literal hell on the electrical system.
They have not but I checked the connections anyway.
Thanks for sharing. The complexity of the electronics leads to all sorts of possibilities, some possibly being simply stray current. I’m wondering if you could remove the leads from the main battery and also the fuse array on the side of the fuse box and let it sit for an hour or so. Perhaps the mini voltage will bleed off?
Yeah, did that over night. Had the same problem. As I show and state in the video, thins are mostly better now. Not sure why but now, I just have the passenger side tail light as an issue.
At 47k on my 2022, I just experienced the first electrical issue related to the notorious rear Diff lock sensor and “lock engaged” light on the dash.
Ordered the OEM sensor that mount inside the diff. Noticed the metallic shavings built up underneath it, as posted by others. Cleaned and replaced. It partially fixed the problem but then, the light on the dash started flashing again. So, I just did what everyone else recommended (a band aid solution IMO) and bought the Tazer piggyback dongle that connects between the axle and the wiring harness. BUT (!) while initially swapping out the axle sensor inside the diff, I pulled out the Connector that connects the wiring between the inside and the outside of the axle and took a good look… guess what I found (!) Gear oil seeping through this plastic connector -from inside the axle, through the connector and, literally - upstream on the wiring harness that is mounted outside of the axle.
So I also ordered this plastic connector (avail on Quadra tech for about 25 bucks) and replaced it. (At the same time as installing the taser module) Problem is now 100% gone.
Anyhow, I have a feeling chasing these types of issues will become the norm as the mileage goes up on my Gladiator. Hope I am wrong lol!
Thanks for Sharing THIS issue, took notes and bookmarked the part number in case I run into the same thing. 😂
Well, I hope this experience helps you in the future or should I say, you won't need it.
I have read that many elec. gremlins can be caused by loose fuses. Apparently it’s common to find movement in them. I had a few elec. issues recently that were solved by pushing down on every fuse. I had about 10 circuits that had about 1/16” movement! 🤞🏼
Yup, what you read is true and yes, I have gone through and checked each and every one of them.
I figured you did. Best of luck with the research & troubleshooting!
Thank you
I have a 2020 Sahara mild hybrid, and when changing out the front battery (not the big one under the Jeep), I was told you must let the system normalize for a period so all the computer gear can re-acclimate. It needed a quiescent period of 2-4 hours after disconnecting both batteries. The fault may indeed have been the canbus.
Yup, that is all true and I've given it over 72 hours.
You still have a voltergeist. It even said "ghost" on your display for a bit and Ripley plays with a monster! Lol.
In all seriousness, the next thing I would check is the fuse box. With the battery disconnected, slightly remove and push down on all fuses and relays. Next, reseat harness connectors to things like computer control modules etc. Start under the hood. Test and try. Then under the dash etc. Disconnect the battery before doing these checks. Connectors that are exposed to moisture are more suspect. Do this before shotgunning more parts. Yes, you may have a computer module issue but it may actually only be a harness issue. Dirty connections are very possible and are much cheaper to fix. You could replace all your computers and it may fix the issue. However, you won't know if it was just a dirty connection of a simple harness that would have been a free fix just by reseating the connector. Disclaimer: Did I mention to disconnect the battery before doing stuff?
If you have made it this far and you still have a voltergeist possession, grab a service manual and wave the book at your JT, threatening further action.
LOL
It looked really clean for having been in the desert the day before. Did something get water in it and it just took some time to dry out?