According to an irises, trees adapt to their environment better without compost in the hole. Otherwise, the roots will not anchor themselves searching for nutrients. Better to fertilize on year two.✌️
Every real nursery has told me this very thing when I have ordered trees. No compost, no special dirt because you want the roots to develop outside of the compost ball of soil. It makes a stronger tree. I’m not an expert but I trust the tree man who is an expert.
i tell you, i am in Tanzania, i have a lot of fruits tees in my backyard..no fertiliser no compost soil, and they grow very well...whenever i look at USA way of farming and garden i always wonder how complicated it is...i have had a lot of watermelons growing in the farm through seeds that were thrown after eating a watermelon...well its good to learn though...i love my africa...we are blessed...
I have seen programs on your framing and trees, you have a very interesting method, one I saw was 'the man who pushed back the desert'. Really near and smart
I live in northern Canada and the native soil in my area is pretty much all clay... which will hold way too much water, strangle any growth and rot the roots as it stays waterlogged. It's not ideal but we have no choice but to remove some of that native soil and add in compost that promotes better drainage... or else all that effort will be destroyed as your trees never grow or they rot entirely.
PLEASE READ: Be very careful how you plant trees, it depends on your soil type. The method shown here WILL KILL YOUR TREES IN CLAY SOIL. If you do not have naturally great draining soil you can NOT use the potting mix in the dug hole or you will experience root rot due to ponding. It is extremely important to make sure the soil is consistant with the soil around it. Having great soil is nice, but if your surrounding soil is clay, all of the water will pond in the newly ammended hole that you have made for the tree and will rot the roots. Check with you local Tree Nursers and verify soil requirements and planting instructions because they will be different in different areas.
@@Mariefrancegrsce I agree. But, I think it's an abundance thing. I have had to force myself to not buy more vermiculite, any potting soil and to learn how to grow stuff naturally like our ancestors. What people don't know is that South African blacks come from West Africa from the Mandingo/Mandinga. Some of us were Muslims when we got here which is why our languages have so many Arab words in it. Our second king was called Dingane (Prince of the Dinga) and we are descendent of the Ngai who created Kenya and who ruled over Swahili coast and Kongo to Kikongo in Angola. On the East Coast of Mozambique they were Muslim and they were led by the Sultan of Oman whose brother looked after the region and stayed in Zanzibar, Tanzania. We have since converted to most Christianity and this is why I think most people think we are different. But, I have done the research. The Kikuyu are called Mdolomba/Drogba, Cisse = Mkhize or Kissi or amaMbo/AMbu, Toure = Ntuli and is the elephant clan or Ituri, same as Central and Southern Africa and of course Wasoulou/Wasulu = AmaZulu = Lunda-Luba (Kongo) = Dahomey (Benin) = Yehuda = Juda. DUEL is the right hand house of the tribe of Gad of Israel. That is where the word Mandinga = Mangadi = Men of Gad, comes from. Elisaphan is the ruling House and was what were called Scribes or Loba/Lobi (means to write in my language) or Luba or Mbau/Palo or Paul and Mbai or Pai or Mfaye/Faye or Vali who are mainline Zulus and were junior Levites in ancient Israel. I come from the line of King David. Some of our brothers are recognized by Israel as Hebrews in South Africa and they are black. They are called Barwe or Pai or Mbai or VhaLemba (=VhaMbale/Mbale/Mbali/Mbai, depending what language you are saying it in). Some of our brothers are on the islands in the Pacific. We dont have the luxury of expensive implements even though I can afford them, I started so that I could help as many people.get started for close to nothing with kitchen scraps and save seed.
Don’t compost the roots directly. Put under or after established on top but not directly on the roots. Add the most draining medium immediately on the roots and under and soak with a root stimulant before and after planting like willow extract. Watering the compost under neath is not so much helping it just is wasted compost. Watering the hole is a good idea. Professional fruit arborist for a massive herb and fruit nursery and mycologist for 30 years.
I am in Michigan. I dig a hole twice as large as the root ball AND twice as deep. Then to the hole I add any fertilizers, etc (not a lot). Then add half of soil back to hole and tamp / water down. Then position tree so the root stock is just above ground level. I only use native soil, no manure or compost. Putting the fertilizer deep encourages the roots to grow deep to reach it. In future years I will drive down Jobes organic fruit fertilizer stakes out at the drip line. I do it in fall, so the fertilizer can start dissolving over winter. I can tell when the roots reach the fertilizer because they have a huge growth spurt. Trees are surrounded 3 ft by thick wood Mulch, just pull back at the trunk. First year of watering is essential. Water DEEP, but less often. Protect trees from buck rub with fencing.
@@HomegrownFloridaZ9a I live in northern Canada and we have the opposite problem - we have so much clay in our soil. Trees would rot or have their growth stunted as they become waterlogged... whereas with sand, your trees would die of thirst as all the water drains away lol Sand is MUCH easier to dig up than clay, so you have that going for you LOL
It's advised not to put compost in the hole when planting trees. The roots of trees need to go deep into the soil to anchor them properly. If the roots sit in nutrient rich compost, they won't send their roots very deep to find nutrients. This can lead to overall poor performance or worse, it topples over in the wind. You want to plant straight into the native soil and then put a nice bit of compost on top and then cover with mulch.
Agree - she just missed a step of mixing the compost with the native dirt. I also would water every day for a couple weeks depending on rain fall. Right now in Pinellas county we’re are in a severe drought. Planting new plants in ground is not ideal but it’s summer so no other option. The rest of the video is good .
I did mix with the native soil but unfortunately I didn’t show it in the short. Sorry about that. I do have a longer video on my channel that showed the full process including the mixing. I agree about planting now with the drought but it was either now or summer and you know how tough our summers are. Thanks so much 💚
I actually have to plant in compost in the holes because my native soil is basically one giant hard clay brick. I dig bigger holes though and I'm working on improving the soil permaculture style. Hopefully my trees will still do ok
I think it depends on where you live and the type of soil you have. I’m in Florida and my soil is complete sand and daily rains so if I didn’t give them anything they would struggle and all the rain washes a lot of nutrients away quickly.
What you do to the soil depends on what the quality of your soil is. I just put in a dwarf styrax. What I dug out was clay, so thick, that every shovel full stuck to the shovel. As I dug down, the soil seemed to get damp, which made even more of a gooey mess. Needless to say, I dug a much bigger hole than intended, mixed planting soil, a great compost and another soil amendment in a wheelbarrow, and used that as the base. Before putting the tree in, I added a couple of handfuls of fertilizer and mixed it all together. I honestly don’t know how it will fair after a couple of years, mainly because of the surrounding crappy soil, but I know it will have a good start. It is also a dwarf, so the root ball won’t be as needy as a standard size tree. Just one more thing. Digging out grass is a pain in the neck. You can eliminate that task by marking out the area, laying cardboard over it, diggin as usual, and mulching on top of that, with good soil or mulch. Worms are drawn to the cardboard, it holds moisture and generally disappears in about a year. No weeds, and no grass.
Great points. Especially about the grass. Thank you. I didn’t think of that. My soil is the opposite of yours. Complete sand. No nutrients and just a bit too good at draining. I hope your tree does well. I’m sure you will take great care of it 💚
@@HomegrownFloridaZ9a Thanks for responding! Never know who reads what you contribute, but the cardboard idea is great. I actually put it in all my beds starting in February. Took about a month and a half to edge, put down cardboard and mulch every bed. No weeds, no picking weeds, no spraying weeds. No weeds. Cardboard is free. Lasts about a season and a half, and the worms that are attracted to it proliferate. Great for the soil. Good luck in Florida.
@@maureenmckenna5220 Thanks so much 💚 I used cardboard in my beds but didn’t think about doing that for my trees. It really does attract the worms, like you said. They love it.
😃Excellent idea! Thank you! Our soil is clay with lots of rocks, in the low desert of Arizona. Native soil does not drain well here. - San Tan Valley, AZ
I actually mix the compost with my native sandy soil. I didn’t include that part in the short but I have a longer video with more of the details if you want to check that out.
Not sure what about this is easy. I have 10 fruit trees on my property and all of them got the same treatment. Planted in fall, dug a hole about twice the size of the pot, placed mycorrhizae in the hole, planted the tree, filled in with soil from the hole, watered in with fish emulsion to prevent transplant shock, mulched in over the grass In a donut ring (not a volcano). In the spring I'll start with a fertilizing regimen
If you are planting in sand this method if fine. If, however, you are planting in hard or compacted soil the roots will not be able to grow into the surrounding soil & you will have a girdling root ball - the tree will not thrive!!!
@@HomegrownFloridaZ9a I have 3 mangos, soursop,starfruit, pomegranate, sugar apple,guava, banana,fig!My moringa died,so I'm going to try again!Also I'm looking to plant mulberry, Chinese plum,lychee and roselle and Papaya soon.,,🙏
Happy Easter, everyone. Remember: life has little to do with what you are doing and more to do with how you are being while you are doing whatever it is that you are doing.
You’re supposed to put the crown of the tree a few inches above the ground. You also were supposed to grab a spade and loosen all the roots so that they don’t choke itself out. You are not supposed to fill with just compost because the roots will stay in a bowl and won’t tap in into the native soil because it’s too hard.
If your soil is super compacted make sure you don’t just dig a round hole! The roots tend to spiral in the pot and will continue in your ground. Try to make an irregular shape hole with some roughness on the sides. This will help the roots spread and make for a better root base! Hope this helps!
Eh I go by the trees maximum crown size. If the trees crown grows to 12 feet. I go out from the center of the tree 12 feet. Then I dig down 2-3 feet. I use zoo poo as my compost along with a good rich dark compost. I get the zoo poo from the zoo for free. I get the dark compost free from the transfer station. I collect people's bags of leaf litter for free which I run through a paper shredder. I then mix this all together with a bit of sprinkle fertilizer I buy off Amazon for fruit trees. Then put my tree in. Then mulch with free mulch from the transfer station. I get very good results. My trees explode in growth. I have a few cottonwood that have grown more then 8 feet in a year.
I planted it a couple inches above the soil line to account for the sinking. In Florida we have mostly sand so I don’t normally have issues with drainage or pooling.
Amending soil in the planting hole depends on the type of tree being planted. Generally it is not recommended aside from a few trees that are particularly susceptible to root knot nematodes, which would be fig, banana (not a tree, more like a biennial anyway), and barbados cherry, and maybe papaya. There's a good article on why you shouldnt amend the planting hole from University of Florida's IFAS department with citations from several studies on the topic. YMMV if you're in a different state with different soil, OFC
Using compost can potentially burn a tree's roots if it's too rich in nitrogen or not fully decomposed. Fresh or improperly cured compost can generate heat as it continues to break down, which can harm the roots. Additionally, high nitrogen levels can cause "fertilizer burn." To avoid this: - Use well-decomposed, mature compost. - Mix compost with soil to dilute its strength. - Apply compost around the base of the tree (as a mulch), rather than directly in the planting hole.
It depends on the time of year and your climate. For me here in FL during the spring time, every 4 days was perfect. Check to see if the soil is still moist before you water and you will figure out the frequency your yard needs.
If you're going to amend the soil, then you need to mix it in with your native topsoil. You definitely don't want to fertilize right at planting unless the location is particularly deficient in a critical nutrients. I.E. a tree stump was ground up nearby and there is a TON of chipped up wood in the soil - bacteria that break down the wood absorb nitrogen as part of that process. But even more importantly, you need to break apart the root ball and find the root flare. The VAST majority of trees purchased from stores or nurseries have piles of substrate thrown on top of the spot where the stem/trunk transitions into root tissue. The flare is NOT supposed to be buried underground and it will only lead to issues later on. The roots are also likely to be encircling all around the tree - these need to be either cut off or re-arranged so that they grow radially outwards AWAY from the stem/trunk and not circling around and around.
Here in Arizona we are instructed to water new trees everyday for 2-3 months and then every 3-4 days for 2-3 months. Your instructions would kill every tree planted in my state.
So I agree with the first step. But then I also add a 4 foot pvc pipe in a hole 4 feet deep. I put my sod from the top at the bottom of the hole upside down. I put the pvc pipe on top of that. Then I add a nutrient stack from the bottom all the way to planting depth, plant my tree, and then add starter fertilizer around it. I get about 30+ inches of growth every year watering from underneath and from above.
All my fruit trees suck. They all have so many problems. Now, I stick to fruiting plants like blueberries, strawberries and raspberries. Easy peasy. DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME WITH FRUIT TREES!
Technically, black kow is composted cow manure so that makes it compost. Compost does feed the soil so some folks call it a fertilizer, but I believe it’s more like an amendment rather than a traditional fertilizer. Hope that helps
@@HomegrownFloridaZ9a oh wow you actually responded 💪🏻🙏🏼. Muchly appreciated like actually. This year is my first year gardening here in Florida, and can only find plants in big box stores. Thanks again.
Lol the color difference from the compost to dirt is wild. I came from a place where dirt and compost was always the same color. Moved to the east coast and some shovel fulls are gray, some are red, and some are green!
Not true. Don’t add compost to the hole. Will make you trees stunted and not spread their roots. Try it. Plant one with compost and one in native soil. If trees grow there naturally, you don’t need compost.
Wont be problem in Forida, but I did this in NW Colorado. Tjere was so much hardpan the water never absorbed. We had to rent a bob cat & auger just to dig the hole, so I should guessed water wpul mot penetrate.
hole should be 3 times the size of root ball and make sure you break apart the rootball itll shock it a little more but they'll be just fine just helps promote the roots to grow outward instead of turning into a circle like it was doing in the pot
I have a small yard so this was the most area I could give. I plan on pruning them pretty small. There is a book called “Grow a Little Fruit Tree”. I’m following that method for small spaces.
@@nobody-hi4py well, she isnt going into details on how to grow, but from what i see, this isnt gonna work. she is planting in clay soil ( which is ok if you know what you are doing) and filling the hole with fertilizer. The roots are going to either be root bound and stay in the soil that came with the pot or at best, they will extend to the fertilizer because roots seek the path of less resistance and they are not going to seek the hard clay soil that is in the ground. She needs to untangle the roots and spread them out to the native soil. that way the tree will only have one choice, to extend into the native soil. Thats also when you add fertilizer as mulch on top
That’s the only space I have on my property. I plan to keep these trees very short so the root system will stay small too. Check out the book Grow a Little Fruit Tree. It’s has a lot of great info.
I think it's important to note that what works in this lady's backyard is probably best for her part of the country. We all have different dirt and rain happening where we live. I love the effort she's making. Me, I buy trees, my husband digs the holes, I place it, he fills it, I water, oh and if we have some compost laying around he'll throw a couple shovels full on top. It works great for us. Other issues arise. A drought, a sudden freeze, now all my citrus are growing back from the bottom even though we wrapped them up like ghosts.
Not always. OMRI certification can be hard for smaller companies to achieve due to cost. A lot of the time, I review the ingredients and research the company to determine if something is organic or not.
If you want to learn more about planting trees in Florida, check out this video next 👉 th-cam.com/video/m58MgXdAvvg/w-d-xo.html
I'd love to hear more
According to an irises, trees adapt to their environment better without compost in the hole. Otherwise, the roots will not anchor themselves searching for nutrients.
Better to fertilize on year two.✌️
Facts
Every real nursery has told me this very thing when I have ordered trees. No compost, no special dirt because you want the roots to develop outside of the compost ball of soil. It makes a stronger tree. I’m not an expert but I trust the tree man who is an expert.
@@BrokeFarmerBrokeFarmer what's up?
Thank you. I learned that the hard way over a decade ago. I have trees I planted years later that are 5x bigger and healthier than the compost trees.
And .. as the compost degrades and 'disappears' , the tree will tip over ! Facts
i tell you, i am in Tanzania, i have a lot of fruits tees in my backyard..no fertiliser no compost soil, and they grow very well...whenever i look at USA way of farming and garden i always wonder how complicated it is...i have had a lot of watermelons growing in the farm through seeds that were thrown after eating a watermelon...well its good to learn though...i love my africa...we are blessed...
I have seen programs on your framing and trees, you have a very interesting method, one I saw was 'the man who pushed back the desert'. Really near and smart
It depends on your soil. A lot of places in the US have clay soil that is not nutrient rich
It’s all about the health or lack thereof of the soil.
@@humanbeing4368a plant can grow through a crack of a concrete sidewalk in a city.
I live in northern Canada and the native soil in my area is pretty much all clay... which will hold way too much water, strangle any growth and rot the roots as it stays waterlogged. It's not ideal but we have no choice but to remove some of that native soil and add in compost that promotes better drainage... or else all that effort will be destroyed as your trees never grow or they rot entirely.
PLEASE READ: Be very careful how you plant trees, it depends on your soil type. The method shown here WILL KILL YOUR TREES IN CLAY SOIL. If you do not have naturally great draining soil you can NOT use the potting mix in the dug hole or you will experience root rot due to ponding. It is extremely important to make sure the soil is consistant with the soil around it. Having great soil is nice, but if your surrounding soil is clay, all of the water will pond in the newly ammended hole that you have made for the tree and will rot the roots. Check with you local Tree Nursers and verify soil requirements and planting instructions because they will be different in different areas.
Yes
Yes! Learned that the hard way! The hole with compost will just fill with water every time it rains!
In Africa, we just dig a hole and water and pop it in.
That sounds easier 😀
Yes, in congo 🇨🇩very simple. In America gardening is something else. I'm loving ❤️ and learning alot in America 🇺🇸.
@@Mariefrancegrsce Learning is my favorite things too.
some do too much but whatever works I'll be planting fruit trees this way just dig a hole water that's it
@@Mariefrancegrsce I agree. But, I think it's an abundance thing. I have had to force myself to not buy more vermiculite, any potting soil and to learn how to grow stuff naturally like our ancestors. What people don't know is that South African blacks come from West Africa from the Mandingo/Mandinga. Some of us were Muslims when we got here which is why our languages have so many Arab words in it. Our second king was called Dingane (Prince of the Dinga) and we are descendent of the Ngai who created Kenya and who ruled over Swahili coast and Kongo to Kikongo in Angola. On the East Coast of Mozambique they were Muslim and they were led by the Sultan of Oman whose brother looked after the region and stayed in Zanzibar, Tanzania. We have since converted to most Christianity and this is why I think most people think we are different. But, I have done the research. The Kikuyu are called Mdolomba/Drogba, Cisse = Mkhize or Kissi or amaMbo/AMbu, Toure = Ntuli and is the elephant clan or Ituri, same as Central and Southern Africa and of course Wasoulou/Wasulu = AmaZulu = Lunda-Luba (Kongo) = Dahomey (Benin) = Yehuda = Juda. DUEL is the right hand house of the tribe of Gad of Israel. That is where the word Mandinga = Mangadi = Men of Gad, comes from. Elisaphan is the ruling House and was what were called Scribes or Loba/Lobi (means to write in my language) or Luba or Mbau/Palo or Paul and Mbai or Pai or Mfaye/Faye or Vali who are mainline Zulus and were junior Levites in ancient Israel. I come from the line of King David. Some of our brothers are recognized by Israel as Hebrews in South Africa and they are black. They are called Barwe or Pai or Mbai or VhaLemba (=VhaMbale/Mbale/Mbali/Mbai, depending what language you are saying it in). Some of our brothers are on the islands in the Pacific. We dont have the luxury of expensive implements even though I can afford them, I started so that I could help as many people.get started for close to nothing with kitchen scraps and save seed.
Don’t compost the roots directly. Put under or after established on top but not directly on the roots. Add the most draining medium immediately on the roots and under and soak with a root stimulant before and after planting like willow extract. Watering the compost under neath is not so much helping it just is wasted compost. Watering the hole is a good idea. Professional fruit arborist for a massive herb and fruit nursery and mycologist for 30 years.
I always heard not to add a bunch to the hole but instead around it so the roots are encouraged to reach out
I am in Michigan. I dig a hole twice as large as the root ball AND twice as deep. Then to the hole I add any fertilizers, etc (not a lot). Then add half of soil back to hole and tamp / water down. Then position tree so the root stock is just above ground level. I only use native soil, no manure or compost. Putting the fertilizer deep encourages the roots to grow deep to reach it. In future years I will drive down Jobes organic fruit fertilizer stakes out at the drip line. I do it in fall, so the fertilizer can start dissolving over winter. I can tell when the roots reach the fertilizer because they have a huge growth spurt. Trees are surrounded 3 ft by thick wood Mulch, just pull back at the trunk. First year of watering is essential. Water DEEP, but less often. Protect trees from buck rub with fencing.
Great info! Down here in FL we are growing in sand so we always have to add so much nutrition to get things going but after while they hold their own.
Thanks.
@@HomegrownFloridaZ9a I live in northern Canada and we have the opposite problem - we have so much clay in our soil. Trees would rot or have their growth stunted as they become waterlogged... whereas with sand, your trees would die of thirst as all the water drains away lol
Sand is MUCH easier to dig up than clay, so you have that going for you LOL
@@AJR-zg2pyvery true. Lol. Sand is a lot easier to dig out.
It's advised not to put compost in the hole when planting trees. The roots of trees need to go deep into the soil to anchor them properly. If the roots sit in nutrient rich compost, they won't send their roots very deep to find nutrients. This can lead to overall poor performance or worse, it topples over in the wind. You want to plant straight into the native soil and then put a nice bit of compost on top and then cover with mulch.
Exactly.
I throw a little miracle grow soil in there but I mix it with native soil and water the hole first.
Agree - she just missed a step of mixing the compost with the native dirt. I also would water every day for a couple weeks depending on rain fall. Right now in Pinellas county we’re are in a severe drought. Planting new plants in ground is not ideal but it’s summer so no other option. The rest of the video is good .
I did mix with the native soil but unfortunately I didn’t show it in the short. Sorry about that. I do have a longer video on my channel that showed the full process including the mixing. I agree about planting now with the drought but it was either now or summer and you know how tough our summers are. Thanks so much 💚
I actually have to plant in compost in the holes because my native soil is basically one giant hard clay brick. I dig bigger holes though and I'm working on improving the soil permaculture style. Hopefully my trees will still do ok
Don’t use compost. Use the dirt from the hole yo
NEVER fertilize when planting a bush or tree. it'll burn the roots stunting the growth or actually killing the plant.
I was taught that you should not fertilize transplants. It burns the roots. I guess I should research that again.
I think it depends on where you live and the type of soil you have. I’m in Florida and my soil is complete sand and daily rains so if I didn’t give them anything they would struggle and all the rain washes a lot of nutrients away quickly.
Very good point 👍
What you do to the soil depends on what the quality of your soil is. I just put in a dwarf styrax. What I dug out was clay, so thick, that every shovel full stuck to the shovel. As I dug down, the soil seemed to get damp, which made even more of a gooey mess. Needless to say, I dug a much bigger hole than intended, mixed planting soil, a great compost and another soil amendment in a wheelbarrow, and used that as the base. Before putting the tree in, I added a couple of handfuls of fertilizer and mixed it all together. I honestly don’t know how it will fair after a couple of years, mainly because of the surrounding crappy soil, but I know it will have a good start. It is also a dwarf, so the root ball won’t be as needy as a standard size tree. Just one more thing. Digging out grass is a pain in the neck. You can eliminate that task by marking out the area, laying cardboard over it, diggin as usual, and mulching on top of that, with good soil or mulch. Worms are drawn to the cardboard, it holds moisture and generally disappears in about a year. No weeds, and no grass.
Great points. Especially about the grass. Thank you. I didn’t think of that. My soil is the opposite of yours. Complete sand. No nutrients and just a bit too good at draining. I hope your tree does well. I’m sure you will take great care of it 💚
@@HomegrownFloridaZ9a Thanks for responding! Never know who reads what you contribute, but the cardboard idea is great. I actually put it in all my beds starting in February. Took about a month and a half to edge, put down cardboard and mulch every bed. No weeds, no picking weeds, no spraying weeds. No weeds. Cardboard is free. Lasts about a season and a half, and the worms that are attracted to it proliferate. Great for the soil. Good luck in Florida.
@@maureenmckenna5220 Thanks so much 💚 I used cardboard in my beds but didn’t think about doing that for my trees. It really does attract the worms, like you said. They love it.
😃Excellent idea! Thank you!
Our soil is clay with lots of rocks, in the low desert of Arizona. Native soil does not drain well here.
- San Tan Valley, AZ
Mulching is about all you need to do other than watering. Compost fertilizer waste of time may do more harm than good.
Self sufficientcy --- preparing for the future ----- 😊
Why would you plant in compost rather than topsoil with some compost in it?
I actually mix the compost with my native sandy soil. I didn’t include that part in the short but I have a longer video with more of the details if you want to check that out.
Not sure what about this is easy. I have 10 fruit trees on my property and all of them got the same treatment. Planted in fall, dug a hole about twice the size of the pot, placed mycorrhizae in the hole, planted the tree, filled in with soil from the hole, watered in with fish emulsion to prevent transplant shock, mulched in over the grass In a donut ring (not a volcano). In the spring I'll start with a fertilizing regimen
If you are planting in sand this method if fine. If, however, you are planting in hard or compacted soil the roots will not be able to grow into the surrounding soil & you will have a girdling root ball - the tree will not thrive!!!
Not deep enough, no black cow
every 4 days in zone 9??
I'm in the same zone and I have to water DAILY
I do pretty heavy thick mulch and that helps me water significantly less. Plus the daily rains.
I planted my fruit trees here in florida.native dirt,fish head n scraps,lime,and water.And I have been successful so far!later fertilizer.,,🙏
Congrats! What trees did you plant?
@@HomegrownFloridaZ9a I have 3 mangos, soursop,starfruit, pomegranate, sugar apple,guava, banana,fig!My moringa died,so I'm going to try again!Also I'm looking to plant mulberry, Chinese plum,lychee and roselle and Papaya soon.,,🙏
@@Rosalyn-z6t that’s awesome. Great choices!
What kinda dig was that? You couldn't even put your weight on your foot to get it in the ground lmao
🤣🤣🤣 I didn’t show you when I stood with two feet on the shovel and it didn’t move AT ALL! I had to jump on it 🤣😂😆
Don't do that for mango trees ! ❤
Happy Easter, everyone. Remember: life has little to do with what you are doing and more to do with how you are being while you are doing whatever it is that you are doing.
You’re supposed to put the crown of the tree a few inches above the ground. You also were supposed to grab a spade and loosen all the roots so that they don’t choke itself out. You are not supposed to fill with just compost because the roots will stay in a bowl and won’t tap in into the native soil because it’s too hard.
hmmm not sure about this
I hope your on well water and not chlorinating your plant.
Yes, we are on a well
If your soil is super compacted make sure you don’t just dig a round hole! The roots tend to spiral in the pot and will continue in your ground. Try to make an irregular shape hole with some roughness on the sides. This will help the roots spread and make for a better root base!
Hope this helps!
Good idea. Mine is basically all sand here in Florida.
Eh I go by the trees maximum crown size. If the trees crown grows to 12 feet. I go out from the center of the tree 12 feet. Then I dig down 2-3 feet. I use zoo poo as my compost along with a good rich dark compost. I get the zoo poo from the zoo for free. I get the dark compost free from the transfer station. I collect people's bags of leaf litter for free which I run through a paper shredder.
I then mix this all together with a bit of sprinkle fertilizer I buy off Amazon for fruit trees. Then put my tree in. Then mulch with free mulch from the transfer station.
I get very good results. My trees explode in growth. I have a few cottonwood that have grown more then 8 feet in a year.
No compost under the tree! As it decomposes, the tree will sink and die from water pooling around it.
I planted it a couple inches above the soil line to account for the sinking. In Florida we have mostly sand so I don’t normally have issues with drainage or pooling.
Amending soil in the planting hole depends on the type of tree being planted. Generally it is not recommended aside from a few trees that are particularly susceptible to root knot nematodes, which would be fig, banana (not a tree, more like a biennial anyway), and barbados cherry, and maybe papaya. There's a good article on why you shouldnt amend the planting hole from University of Florida's IFAS department with citations from several studies on the topic. YMMV if you're in a different state with different soil, OFC
Using compost can potentially burn a tree's roots if it's too rich in nitrogen or not fully decomposed. Fresh or improperly cured compost can generate heat as it continues to break down, which can harm the roots. Additionally, high nitrogen levels can cause "fertilizer burn."
To avoid this:
- Use well-decomposed, mature compost.
- Mix compost with soil to dilute its strength.
- Apply compost around the base of the tree (as a mulch), rather than directly in the planting hole.
Why water every 4 days or a week?, don’t they need water at least every other day?
It depends on the time of year and your climate. For me here in FL during the spring time, every 4 days was perfect. Check to see if the soil is still moist before you water and you will figure out the frequency your yard needs.
If you're going to amend the soil, then you need to mix it in with your native topsoil. You definitely don't want to fertilize right at planting unless the location is particularly deficient in a critical nutrients. I.E. a tree stump was ground up nearby and there is a TON of chipped up wood in the soil - bacteria that break down the wood absorb nitrogen as part of that process.
But even more importantly, you need to break apart the root ball and find the root flare. The VAST majority of trees purchased from stores or nurseries have piles of substrate thrown on top of the spot where the stem/trunk transitions into root tissue. The flare is NOT supposed to be buried underground and it will only lead to issues later on. The roots are also likely to be encircling all around the tree - these need to be either cut off or re-arranged so that they grow radially outwards AWAY from the stem/trunk and not circling around and around.
Here in Arizona we are instructed to water new trees everyday for 2-3 months and then every 3-4 days for 2-3 months. Your instructions would kill every tree planted in my state.
So I agree with the first step. But then I also add a 4 foot pvc pipe in a hole 4 feet deep. I put my sod from the top at the bottom of the hole upside down. I put the pvc pipe on top of that. Then I add a nutrient stack from the bottom all the way to planting depth, plant my tree, and then add starter fertilizer around it. I get about 30+ inches of growth every year watering from underneath and from above.
Great job, thanks 😊
I always like to mound up my trees so they don’t drown in floods
That definitely makes sense for certain areas. I am in Florida where we grow in straight sand, so the sand drains water super fast.
@@HomegrownFloridaZ9a ah, ya I’m in clay lol. I should have said that in my original comment but about the opposite issue.
All my fruit trees suck. They all have so many problems. Now, I stick to fruiting plants like blueberries, strawberries and raspberries. Easy peasy. DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME WITH FRUIT TREES!
I’m sorry you haven’t had good luck with fruit trees. I like growing berries too. My blackberry is growing like crazy.
How will the aerobic processes of the compost-plant complex take place so far below the surface?
If you have clay soil, it's better to use the mound method of planting.
The grass in America looks different to U.K grass
You could burn the roots by doing this FYI.. any type of food should be put on top. Trees are fun
i dont fink y dug even a single hole by urself.
There is a long video on my channel that shows the full process, including me digging the holes but I can see why you said that 🤣
@@HomegrownFloridaZ9a im just bein a troll, sorry :3
You should be digging much much deeper than that. And you should take your piece of sod and flip it upside down and place it at the bottom of the hole
Good tips I knew I should have done that too. Keep posting
Don’t do this in heavy clay, it’s quick road to root rot.
Don't fertilize and compost a new tree, it stresses the roots
Imagin a tree at least 15 feet wide and 25 feet tall before you plant. They grow fast unless they are dwarfs. ✌️
Yes true. I’ll be pruning all of these heavily to keep them small. I’m following the book “Grow a Little Fruit Tree” method for small spaces.
Excellent job thank you for sharing
FYI. DONT MOUND THE MULCH.
Is black Kow compost or fertilizer? Have I been doing life wrong?
Technically, black kow is composted cow manure so that makes it compost. Compost does feed the soil so some folks call it a fertilizer, but I believe it’s more like an amendment rather than a traditional fertilizer. Hope that helps
compost goes on top of soil
That tree is much too close to the house.
Where do you by you’re plants from
I got all these from Greendreamsfl.com
@@HomegrownFloridaZ9a oh wow you actually responded 💪🏻🙏🏼. Muchly appreciated like actually. This year is my first year gardening here in Florida, and can only find plants in big box stores. Thanks again.
@@dannyharper2587You’re welcome! They are located in Spring Hill but they also ship the plants. He also has a YT channel with the same name
@@HomegrownFloridaZ9a okay thanks for letting me know I really do appreciate the help
Do you have any advice on how to most naturally control guava wasps/worms? (not certain what they are named)
I haven’t tried growing guava yet but maybe check out David the Good. I believe he grows them and might have some insights.
Meh, too much work
Lol the color difference from the compost to dirt is wild. I came from a place where dirt and compost was always the same color. Moved to the east coast and some shovel fulls are gray, some are red, and some are green!
It really is wild! 💚
Doing things properly 👍
Not true. Don’t add compost to the hole. Will make you trees stunted and not spread their roots. Try it. Plant one with compost and one in native soil. If trees grow there naturally, you don’t need compost.
Thanks for showing us how you do it. 😊
My pleasure 😊
Rip those roots up
You dig like me!! ❤❤
You're lucky we've been in a drought for a couple years. That black kow turns to muck and never drains during the rainy season.
Wont be problem in Forida, but I did this in NW Colorado. Tjere was so much hardpan the water never absorbed. We had to rent a bob cat & auger just to dig the hole, so I should guessed water wpul mot penetrate.
awesome
#1 fan here 🎉
Aww 🥰 Thanks for watching
No matter how big a hole you dig it'll always hold water and suffocate the plant, make a large mound and plant inside it
Didn't even wear garden gloves!
Nope! 👩🌾
hole should be 3 times the size of root ball and make sure you break apart the rootball itll shock it a little more but they'll be just fine just helps promote the roots to grow outward instead of turning into a circle like it was doing in the pot
Nicely done!!
Thanks!
They look very close together
They are 12 feet apart except for the mulberries. They can grow closer together, especially the dwarf varieties
Step 1 should be measuring the space between trees to the appropriate distance apart. Planting trees to close together is the most common mistake
Why so close to the house?❤
I have a small yard so this was the most area I could give. I plan on pruning them pretty small. There is a book called “Grow a Little Fruit Tree”. I’m following that method for small spaces.
So pretty 🌱
this is the worst possible way to grow fruit trees.
Why?
@@nobody-hi4py well, she isnt going into details on how to grow, but from what i see, this isnt gonna work. she is planting in clay soil ( which is ok if you know what you are doing) and filling the hole with fertilizer. The roots are going to either be root bound and stay in the soil that came with the pot or at best, they will extend to the fertilizer because roots seek the path of less resistance and they are not going to seek the hard clay soil that is in the ground.
She needs to untangle the roots and spread them out to the native soil. that way the tree will only have one choice, to extend into the native soil. Thats also when you add fertilizer as mulch on top
Y so close to house 😮
That’s the only space I have on my property. I plan to keep these trees very short so the root system will stay small too. Check out the book Grow a Little Fruit Tree. It’s has a lot of great info.
Better option dig hole twice wide and deep and blend compost in dirt.
I like those pavers
We got them from Lowe’s. We love the color
I want to make sure there are no bury lines.
Nice.
Every 4 days is weekly...
Beautiful work
I think it's important to note that what works in this lady's backyard is probably best for her part of the country. We all have different dirt and rain happening where we live. I love the effort she's making. Me, I buy trees, my husband digs the holes, I place it, he fills it, I water, oh and if we have some compost laying around he'll throw a couple shovels full on top. It works great for us. Other issues arise. A drought, a sudden freeze, now all my citrus are growing back from the bottom even though we wrapped them up like ghosts.
Trees in our backyard did not need to be watered growing up. They just grow. They get a drink on rainy days and that's it.
Do you use OMRI listed/rated soils and fertilizers?
Not always. OMRI certification can be hard for smaller companies to achieve due to cost. A lot of the time, I review the ingredients and research the company to determine if something is organic or not.
Nice!!!
❤