diffraction and sharpness is unrelated to current sensors, and is a product of physics. Even the best sensors today will still show the same diffraction as older sensors, so it's still best to not go to f/22 if possible.
Hey brian, is that something that can be corrected in post? Is shooting at the largest apature something i should avoid? for landscapes, i generally dont go past f11
@@KevinNordstrom you can adjust the sharpen slider in Lightroom (and similar in other editing tools), but it's not "real" sharpening. The adjustment usually just increases contrast between tones around edges, so if the edges are soft from diffraction then the result will be "sharp soft edges." It might work a little, but I still think it's easier to stick between f/8 - f/11 for the best results. I don't ever shoot anything beyond f/11.
great tips tom. I never thought about shooting the subjects that are lit up from the sun. i will be putting that tip into practice. thanks brother, cheers.
I really like the idea of using the shadow tint to create more separation in foreground / background and the lit subject. Visually, this is one of those sort of things that I instinctively know and notice but never really thought about the fact that it was that difference in tint that was making some of my compositions work well. I'll have to pay more attention to this in the future and look for opportunities to do some editing to boost the blue tint a bit when it makes sense to do so.
diffraction and sharpness is unrelated to current sensors, and is a product of physics. Even the best sensors today will still show the same diffraction as older sensors, so it's still best to not go to f/22 if possible.
Thanks for the comment and the info provided
Hey brian, is that something that can be corrected in post? Is shooting at the largest apature something i should avoid? for landscapes, i generally dont go past f11
@@KevinNordstrom you can adjust the sharpen slider in Lightroom (and similar in other editing tools), but it's not "real" sharpening. The adjustment usually just increases contrast between tones around edges, so if the edges are soft from diffraction then the result will be "sharp soft edges." It might work a little, but I still think it's easier to stick between f/8 - f/11 for the best results. I don't ever shoot anything beyond f/11.
@@brianbeattyphotography thanks brother
Very nice shots and tips.
great tips tom. I never thought about shooting the subjects that are lit up from the sun. i will be putting that tip into practice. thanks brother, cheers.
Thanks for your time. I'm glad there was something useful
Glad to hear that the book is almost here.
You always include something I want to try to improve my photos. One thing this time was the blue tint in certain spots.
I really like the idea of using the shadow tint to create more separation in foreground / background and the lit subject. Visually, this is one of those sort of things that I instinctively know and notice but never really thought about the fact that it was that difference in tint that was making some of my compositions work well. I'll have to pay more attention to this in the future and look for opportunities to do some editing to boost the blue tint a bit when it makes sense to do so.
It’s like one of those things where you think to yourself that you know something looks good but you cannot pinpoint why exactly.
Helpful tips
Glad to hear that
Do you ever shoot in j peg,thanks
No. Only raw