FINALLY! SO many videos out there, but none showed where this door IS. Schematics and the manual do not show how to physically get to this damn flap. I replaced the actuator when it was stuck on heat this past summer and the AC worked great. Come Fall and it would only switch over sporadically. When I found that elusive door lever lever I felt like I struck gold, and I didn't have to pull the entire console off! I got it propped open last night, but today I'm sawing a hole to get to the door itself. I deliver pizzas full time and I refused to pay a mechanic for something I knew I could fix myself. I had been hit head on by a Ram pickup that demolished my Saturn wagon so I got an Explorers. They are lousy on gas, but they have a decent crash rating. You rock. Thank you thank you THANK YOU.
HUGE thank you for providing this easy fix for what I thought was going to be an expensive problem, for my 2004 Explorer. Followed your lead, step-by-step and had this problem fixed in an hour or so. Thank you again!
Chuck Colvin Ford in McMinnville Oregon I had to go in and get a cost on a the hot/cold air actuator for the cabin temp they told me that it would be $950.00 to put that part in, I told them what I needed fixed and they told me that wasn't the problem and refused to send someone out there to take a look at what needed to be fixed. So I took it to another shop they looked at it and they gave me a cost of $45.00 to fix so for ($102.00 I got it fixed) $57.00 (for the part) and $45.00 (labor) They don't listen to the customers they think they know it all Customer service sucks That's why I will be going to Newberg Ford in (Newberg Or).
Thank you so much for your valuable insight on such a poorly engineered flaw! This discussion and comments posted by Brian allowed me to fix this vent door cleanly and with no visible marks other than a couple of scratches on airbox and my arm from jamming in space.
I am so glad I didn’t do what some of the other videos did. I hope you’re comfortable with another man saying he loves you. Rock on dude. 👍👍💪💪 5⭐️’s Thank you.
Best video for this issue I've seen. Had mine going on three years I'd say, and watched the other videos but was never comfortable taking on their way to fix it. I will definitely be trying this within couple days as it's 105° heat index here in TN. Thanks my guy
Great video! I bought my 2004 Explorer a year ago and it has hardly blown out air through the vents and always felt air coming out of the glove box. We cut into that plastic and there was the door, laying on top of the blower. Removed it and tested the air flow and it blows so hard now. Thank you!!
2004 ford explorer eddie bauer and had problems with low air flow and it always sounding like it's on max a/c... cut open the front like yours and the door had fallen, surprised I was getting as much air as I was. Pulled the door out and going to run it like that for a while. Already tell a lot more air flow. So happy I didn't let a mechanic work on it, heard this repair could have cost me upwards of 800$ O_O
Great guide, anyone else that plans to do this, there's a removable metal bracket with 3 screws attached to the airbox. In this video the bracket doesn't exist which made me realize I could take it out. If you don't take it out, putting the plastic hinge for the door back in is next to impossible. This was on a 2004 explorer, not sure if all explorers have this bracket in place.
Excellent Video, HOWEVER, on the very left and the very right of that upper cowling enclosure, you'll see two golden (or silver - depending on what factory it was put together) screws. Remove those two screws with an 8mm open end wrench. Now, using what ever small saw you have, make a vertical cut to the left of the left screw, and a vertical cut to the right of the right screw. Now make your horizontal cut to the upper part (the cage part) as high as you can. Now (with the screws removed) you can pull out the area that you cut. The nice part is, you now have two places (the screws) to replace that cowling that you cut out. Will it be a perfect fit? Nope, but it's better than leaving it open or gluing it back into place. Platinum Garage, Thank You for the video !! It helped me greatly !!
I have a 2005...think I have the same problem...great video. I'll be checking it out shortly. With my heater motor on max it sounds like a hovercraft.....A week later, this was the problem the damper was laying on top of the fan intake, ug. I found the broken damper arm laying on top of a support under the dash. I removed the 4 screws in the front of the damper box there, took a dremel and cut the two sides (about 1 1/2 inches? on each side) bent up the plastic so I had like a little door to access the damper, slick. (good access for a cabin filter) I put the damper up against the outside air intake so as to leave a small area for outside air to enter and jammed a piece of plastic conduit between the damper and the plastic in the front.. nice and tight. I have all kinds of air coming thru the vents now....amen. Thanks for sharing this video, good stuff.
I was so excited to see your video since I didn't have the money to take my Explorer to the shop or the mechanical skills for the fancier solutions. Unfortunately I couldn't use your fix. In my car it wasn't the tooth that had broken off, but the entire hinge insert. The hinge at 3:06 had snapped in half with the part with the "fins" stuck in the door. The tooth was still present. I decided against gluing because load-bearing adhesive bonds never last long. I just removed the door so we could at least use the HVAC with fresh air all the time. Any Ford engineers reading this? These Explorers had HVAC temperature control problems, HVAC directional control problems, and this fresh air door problem. You should be ashamed of yourself.
Blend door problems are just the start. Their shotty 5r55 transmissions, non metal reinforced timing guide in the back of the engine, failing rear differentials, etc etc
I would like to also like to THANK YOU for taking the time to create a video that has really helped others AND ME! I have subscribed and liked your video as a means of saying thank you!
If you use an oscillating saw ( I call it Mr buzzy because the sound it makes) you can easily cut the hole squarely and a lot less effort. Really fantastically done video.
That was a wealth of information sir. It will come in handy some day as I just bought a 2005 Explorer XLS. Thank you for the video. Now on to try and removing a stuck CD in the cars player, it's the only issue thus far.
Awesome explanation. I have this same problem and also pulled motor and cage out to clean out acorns from mice along with a rubber glove they drug into it as motor was loud and rattling. I knew something had gotten inside it. Thanks for the video
I have a 2005 explorer, broken door just like yours, I used a soldering iron to cut my opening nice, thank you very much for your video, I just got done epoxy got mine, waiting for it to dry, again thank you !
It's easier to just make a flap on the front. Remove the two screws, they are 8mm heads, then cut a little outside of the screw lugs. The plastic is soft, my short-blade lockback knife did the job. My big hand fit in there alright.
Update on today's fix - the swinging door is connected but the vacuum only moves it a little bit. There were some leaves on top of the fan, cleaned those out. Then I disconnected the vacuum to the door operator and plugged it, then stuck an unsharpened pencil through the narrow air intake above the "new door" and zip-tied it in place to hold the swinging door shut, with the eraser contacting the door. No outside air coming in now.
Also noticed that the door operator arm for the main vents in the middle was broken so I opened it all the way and wedged it in place with stout foam; disconnected the vacuum to that one also.
The video helped out a lot brother. I do recommend that if you have big hands like myself to take the screen that protects the blower motor off. That helped me out a lot and it made the job easier. The con of that is that I recommend putting any kind of thin filter so that nothing falls on the blower motor because if it does trust me you’ll hear it.
Super helpful. I found it easier to remove the vacuum pump and steel bracket to guide the pin back in since I have big hands. Your video was excellent.
Don’t be fooled this is a major job, especially if your hands are as big as your feet like mine. Careful of the blend door lever removal you will break it because you cannot see way up in there to see how it comes off, it doesn’t just pop off. There were 3 things wrong with my HVAC system. The gears were stripped on blend door actuator on the driver side, changed that, blend door was broken on the passenger side behind the glove box, cut that open fixed that, the defrost blend door lever was broken on the passenger side towards the middle up under the dash where the upper actuator operated it, fixed that by drilling a hole in the lever and putting a zip tie through the actuator valve lever and attaching it to the defrost blend door lever. (Shew) 😮 UPDATE: drill a hole through the blend door and put a screw in the shaft behind the glove box, the epoxy failed now I have to do it again
Nice work... I have been having an issue with weak A/C in my 05 Mountaineer and assumed it was the vacuum check valve or vacuum canister... replaced the check valve and tested the cannister and all was good. Unfortunately, I still had weak AC. I was cleaning out my wife/kids crap since we got her a newer used car and noticed that black hinge piece on the floor. I did not know what it was and thought it may be from a previous repair or from one of my kids toys. I had a feeling that I should not throw it out so I threw it in the glove box. After seeing your video, it all makes sense. I was hoping to get it fixed before the cold hits and now it looks like I am going to have decent heat this winter. Also, I used some of your videos to help pull/ and do timing on the 4.0 SOHC last summer at ~230k and it is now ~245k and still sounds good. I plan to teach myself how to do auto paint next spring so I can finally get some new paint on the roof.
For anyone who had the c-shaped clip break on their hinge piece... I was able to get the door hinge epoxied back on but I was worried that the peg that sets in the actuator arm may fall out eventually without the c-clip. I got a metal brake caliper slide from a recent brake change (any small flat piece of metal), hammered it flat, and cut it down to ~dime size with a Dremel tool. I then used increasingly larger drill bits to increase the size of the hole until it was barely able to slide onto the "peg" portion of the hinge. (you can hammer increasingly larger nails through it as well). I had to twist it on. You can put a bit of epoxy on the piece before you twist it on. My backup plan was to find a shallow nut that would fit snugly and epoxy it on. If the peg ever breaks, I will probably drill it out and use a bolt, nut, and washer to secure the arm to the hinge.
Awsome video. It was perfectly explained and filmed. I would like to see how to saw it open to access the door & how to get access to shove t-shirt to block the cold Minnesota winter air.
i'm sure by now someone has told you that you did not have to cut a slot....had you un-done 2 screws on each side the part that you cut out was a hinged door that you can lift up and gain access to the vent door to remove it...GREAT idea to use the glue I would not have thought of that!!!
Brian - Thanks for adding your comment, saved me from hacking up my Explorer. I removed the 2 screws but it seemed the "door" was possibly glued shut at the bottom, would not easily swing up. I saw 2 other screw I could not get to, one on either side, so I made vertical cuts with a Dremel tool just outside the location of each of the 2 screws I did remove, then used a very sharp screwdriver to pry to "vent door" at the bottom edge and it opened. I only extracted the fallen door for now since I was working in 34 degree weather, did not glue the actuator hinge. That's good enough for now. I get both outside air and cabin air but that's fine, the heat is blowing like brand new!
@@alansolomon9601 Hey Alan, Guess what, In my post I forgot to say to use a razor knife or as you used a dremel tool to make vertical slits and THEN it becomes a hinged door...it appears that the engineers at ford created a hinged opening on later models. Glad you figured it out on your own. If you want really warm heat in your suv you had better shove a shirt or rag into the fresh air intake vent from inside the engine compartment until you can get the flap set in there...I don't think you will be very happy with the heat with the vent open in cold temps! You would not believe the PAIN I went through to repair the actuator arm and re-install the flap! and I could not find a replacement part..it seems that if you want the actuator arm you must buy the entire housing unit for the blower! I am so thankful that these folks posted their video on this problem, it literally saved my suv from the scrap yard. After fixing it I went ahead and detailed the hell out of it, new tires, new muffler system ($1500) they have 3 cat converters on the exhaust. Now I have great heat and air-condition! Mine is a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer Premier with the silver birch paint and leather interior.
Timing is everything, have a 04 Limited disassembled, and was just about to cut to have access to reassemble. Thank you for posting this, as a little heat applied, and the sucker right popped open!
I had an 03 that I took the dash out 2 times to replace that stupid door assembly. 1st time it was as you noted, the actuator shaft just popped out. I just snapped it back together and tested with my Mighty Vac. That worked for about 8 months and then it broke that tab off so dash removal twice. Although the 2nd time, I had that dash out in < 1hr. If you want to do it correct, the dash isn't so bad but for column shifters DO NOT TAKE THE CABLE OUT THERE!! Take it off where it goes to the trans. That was the most difficult part...
That little plastic clip on the trans is definitely a breeze to do. I just didn’t wanna bust my back pulling the dash and I’m sure the 100k other people who watched this video don’t want to either lol
Super helpful vid, thanks for uploading. I just bought my second explorer, a mint 2003 eddie bauer 4.6L a few days ago, I'm absolutely loving it other than a few small things like this. Shouldn't be problem any more thanks to you! Any chance you know what the cause of a slow filling fuel tank would be? I went to fill it up for the first time and the fuel pump just clicks off after a second or two of filling, it took me forever to fill it up at a low speed. Thanks in advance
Hey bud! Such a common problem on the explorers. Check your filler neck, there’s a purge valve to allow air out and gas in. If it’s collapsed, the gas will continually click off like that.
Great video, thank you. When the recirc door is closed, will it prevent mice from coming in through the fresh air vents, and how do you access the fresh air vents, where you put your t-shirt?
Behind the plastic cowl near the wiper blades is a sealed little access hole. That’s the corridor where rain water gets diverted to the ground from under the windshield. In that corridor, you will see the fresh air inlet (kinda looks like a box with grid). You can stick your hand in there and stuff a shirt in the opening. Mice won’t be able to get to it, so you’re good on that. Thanks for the sub!!!
@@iamdjnam Thank you, again. I removed the black cowl, but didn't find the vent. Could you be a little more specific on the location of the vent. Do you need to remover the cowl?
You need to remove the entire cowl. Then underneath there is this factory sealed and glued grommet/cap. Approx 6”x8” long. Cut the glue away and you can open it up.
Great video BUT with the large hole there does it make a diff in the strength of the air flow in other words will all the air flow out that hole instead of where is supposed to be directed through?
@@iamdjnam Thank you. What would you recommend if the "lever" arm/piece is totally missing. Id rather not buy the whole duct/inlet. I thought about just taping the door over the opening so it is always closed off.
I'm 67 yr old female trying to get to my blower mower below the cabin, did put a filter in it but need to clean my blower fan. Mouse urine in hvac vents. I did it before but do not remember how I got to it. Also how can I get urine out of vents? Please help. Thank you.
Good vid but i got one question. I started pryin open that outer plastic covering so i can see the door and i think some of the plastic bits fell into the part that sucks air in, could this cause damage to abythijg?
You can remove the whole blower assembly. It’s held in by a few little screws. Will give you the chance to clean out whatever fell in. You don’t need to if you don’t want to. It won’t hurt anything.
For the “window” you cut into the plastic, did you tape it back up afterwards that way the air that the blower motor blows out goes into the vents and not out this window you cut?
Do you need to fix the plastic box after cutting it open? Wouldn’t that cause the vents to not blow at all and all the air to come from under the glove box?
Nope you do not need to fix it. That box is air inlet, it pulls air in. Doesn’t blow it out. This procedure will actually increase air flow from your vents.
Under the cowl is an access panel by the passenger side wiper. Beneath that panel is the channel in which rain water drains that runs down the windshield. You will see the fresh air inlet, that’s where I put the shirt.
I have stinking leaves trapped somewhere in the system of my 2002 Ranger. I can't figure out how to remove them and clean up. I have cold air but it struggles blowing out of the vents even on max fan.
On the ranger I think the blower is under the hood. You can take out that blower motor and vacuum out the leaves behind it. I did the same thing on my F250.
Platinum Garage It worked! It was tough getting 20 year old leaves out of there. I had to scrape with my fingers and repeat. Scrape, vacuum, scrape and vac and it's perfect! Thanks brother!
Ok this might sound like a silly question to you but is the heater box control lever screwed to the top of the condenser? I'm am an amateur at this and trying to follow your video to achieve this and my sister and I just don't feel where the piece sticks out to attach to the door.
It bolts to the top of that plastic box on the left side. If you reach your hand up to the left you will feel it. You’ll get a better view once you chop your way in and remove the broken door. Also, there is a little metal bracket directly behind the glovebox I recommend removing for better clearance.
@@iamdjnam well I cut into the heater box removed the door felt up to and couldn't find anything just a hole i could put my finger into and touch the other finger on the outside of the housing I couldn't feel anything else.
Wow that’s strange! There could be a chance the entire actuator and hinge was removed by the previous owner. If you stick your hand in the box and go to the top left, there should be a pivot hinge like shown in the video.
@@iamdjnam i don't think so. I'm the 2nd owner and I've had it for about 15-16 yrs and it was working when I got it. Ac didn't work for a few years and I'm just getting to it replaced hose and fuses was working really well then door fell now trying to figure this out.
Hey I actually have alot of issues with a ford 02 explorer everytime I put a new belt tensioner part of it sucks into the fan clutch and I can't figure out what is wrong with it
What gets pulled in? The belt, or the tensioner? Check your harmonic balancer. It’s a two piece design that fails, splits, and starts to cause all sorts of problems.
Hey man! My trailer has been snowed in lol I haven’t had a parts truck in over a month. I usually sell my engines for $500 next time I have one I’ll hit you up!
Is cutting into the box the only way to get in there to fix it? Also I just bought a used explorer and I'm gradually making my own improvements, are there anymore hacks like this or other faults I should check out?
You can drop the blower motor and go in from there too. But you can’t get the door out that way. The only other way is to remove the entire dash and replace the whole thing using the $150 kit. As far as other stuff goes, wd40 to fix the door ajar light, and zip ties for the blend door when it breaks.
@@iamdjnam thanks for the quick reply. Yeah I'm not trying to replace the whole thing. I'm not even sure if it's loose TBH the air just doesn't seem to be that cold so I'll take a look at options A and if that's too annoying I'll cut it open. The door ajar thing happened the first month I got it, that was a fun surprise
How in the world did you get the plastic piece back on? How did you get it off that metal arm it’s connected to and mine stopped moving up and down when I took it off now I have no damn clue how to get it back on there or if it’s even going to work again
It pulls out and pivots off of the actuator. You can remove the 2 8mm bolts that holds the actuator on to help. It’s quite simple once you get the hinge on, the door only fits one way.
Don't hack that much out,just make some cuts with a sharp utility knife,take out the two outside screws and cut it high enough to get your hands in there,then figure out how to put the hinges back,next pull it out and fill the broken side hole with some high temp rtv ,put it back in and push the plastic hinge in and let it set up for an hour,don't use too much or it could squeeze out and cause it to stick,then because you didn't hack it all out the plastic housing can go back together,and put in the two screws to the housing and because you used a sharp knife at the corners you can't tell it's ever been open.
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FINALLY! SO many videos out there, but none showed where this door IS. Schematics and the manual do not show how to physically get to this damn flap.
I replaced the actuator when it was stuck on heat this past summer and the AC worked great. Come Fall and it would only switch over sporadically.
When I found that elusive door lever lever I felt like I struck gold, and I didn't have to pull the entire console off!
I got it propped open last night, but today I'm sawing a hole to get to the door itself.
I deliver pizzas full time and I refused to pay a mechanic for something I knew I could fix myself.
I had been hit head on by a Ram pickup that demolished my Saturn wagon so I got an Explorers. They are lousy on gas, but they have a decent crash rating.
You rock. Thank you thank you THANK YOU.
ok your the first clear cut video and actual video to explain and show a fix-THANK YOU! I subscribed just because of the content!
HUGE thank you for providing this easy fix for what I thought was going to be an expensive problem, for my 2004 Explorer. Followed your lead, step-by-step and had this problem fixed in an hour or so. Thank you again!
You’re welcome! It’s amazing how a little bit of epoxy can make all the difference in the world. Thanks for watching!
Chuck Colvin Ford in McMinnville Oregon I had to go in and get a cost on a the hot/cold air actuator for the cabin temp they told me that it would be $950.00 to put that part in, I told them what I needed fixed and they told me that wasn't the problem and refused to send someone out there to take a look at what needed to be fixed.
So I took it to another shop they looked at it and they gave me a
cost of $45.00 to fix so for ($102.00 I got it fixed) $57.00 (for the part) and $45.00 (labor)
They don't listen to the customers they think they know it all Customer service sucks That's why I will be going to Newberg Ford in (Newberg Or).
Thank you so much for your valuable insight on such a poorly engineered flaw! This discussion and comments posted by Brian allowed me to fix this vent door cleanly and with no visible marks other than a couple of scratches on airbox and my arm from jamming in space.
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
I am so glad I didn’t do what some of the other videos did. I hope you’re comfortable with another man saying he loves you. Rock on dude. 👍👍💪💪
5⭐️’s Thank you.
Best video for this issue I've seen. Had mine going on three years I'd say, and watched the other videos but was never comfortable taking on their way to fix it. I will definitely be trying this within couple days as it's 105° heat index here in TN. Thanks my guy
No problem! Definitely recommend keeping the fresh air door and allowing it to open and close. All the other guys I see screw it shut.
Great video! I bought my 2004 Explorer a year ago and it has hardly blown out air through the vents and always felt air coming out of the glove box. We cut into that plastic and there was the door, laying on top of the blower. Removed it and tested the air flow and it blows so hard now. Thank you!!
Did u put the filter back in or leave it out?
@@Plush-Freddys-Pizzaria I put it in the glove box at the time.
Had this problem for years. Gonna have to check this fix out!!
2004 ford explorer eddie bauer and had problems with low air flow and it always sounding like it's on max a/c... cut open the front like yours and the door had fallen, surprised I was getting as much air as I was. Pulled the door out and going to run it like that for a while. Already tell a lot more air flow. So happy I didn't let a mechanic work on it, heard this repair could have cost me upwards of 800$ O_O
Great guide, anyone else that plans to do this, there's a removable metal bracket with 3 screws attached to the airbox. In this video the bracket doesn't exist which made me realize I could take it out. If you don't take it out, putting the plastic hinge for the door back in is next to impossible. This was on a 2004 explorer, not sure if all explorers have this bracket in place.
Great call! Mine was removed from previous rigging.
Thank you so much for this extra step, so much help
Thank you!
Outstanding video. Now I can recirculate my air in max!
Thank you! Enjoy that cold air and max blower speed!
Thank You young man you don't know how much you helped me. THANKS AGAIN 😊 🙏 😊
You’re welcome! Glad I could help!
Thank you man you are a lifesaver I had that problem for years on this Ford Explorer
No problem glad I could help
Excellent Video, HOWEVER, on the very left and the very right of that upper cowling enclosure, you'll see two golden (or silver - depending on what factory it was put together) screws. Remove those two screws with an 8mm open end wrench. Now, using what ever small saw you have, make a vertical cut to the left of the left screw, and a vertical cut to the right of the right screw. Now make your horizontal cut to the upper part (the cage part) as high as you can. Now (with the screws removed) you can pull out the area that you cut. The nice part is, you now have two places (the screws) to replace that cowling that you cut out. Will it be a perfect fit? Nope, but it's better than leaving it open or gluing it back into place. Platinum Garage, Thank You for the video !! It helped me greatly !!
Thanks for the feedback and watching! :)
I have a 2005...think I have the same problem...great video. I'll be checking it out shortly. With my heater motor on max it sounds like a hovercraft.....A week later, this was the problem the damper was laying on top of the fan intake, ug. I found the broken damper arm laying on top of a support under the dash. I removed the 4 screws in the front of the damper box there, took a dremel and cut the two sides (about 1 1/2 inches? on each side) bent up the plastic so I had like a little door to access the damper, slick. (good access for a cabin filter) I put the damper up against the outside air intake so as to leave a small area for outside air to enter and jammed a piece of plastic conduit between the damper and the plastic in the front.. nice and tight. I have all kinds of air coming thru the vents now....amen. Thanks for sharing this video, good stuff.
So glad I saw this video! Thanks for Sharing.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
I was so excited to see your video since I didn't have the money to take my Explorer to the shop or the mechanical skills for the fancier solutions. Unfortunately I couldn't use your fix. In my car it wasn't the tooth that had broken off, but the entire hinge insert. The hinge at 3:06 had snapped in half with the part with the "fins" stuck in the door. The tooth was still present. I decided against gluing because load-bearing adhesive bonds never last long. I just removed the door so we could at least use the HVAC with fresh air all the time.
Any Ford engineers reading this? These Explorers had HVAC temperature control problems, HVAC directional control problems, and this fresh air door problem. You should be ashamed of yourself.
Blend door problems are just the start. Their shotty 5r55 transmissions, non metal reinforced timing guide in the back of the engine, failing rear differentials, etc etc
Nice, Great explanation and Example Very Helpful and Easy to understand
Thank you!
I would like to also like to THANK YOU for taking the time to create a video that has really helped others AND ME! I have subscribed and liked your video as a means of saying thank you!
Thank you!! That means a lot to me! Glad I started making videos because I know there’s people out there in the same situation I am!
@@iamdjnam Same here. Your videos have helped me a ton.
Great video i just found 2 towels stuffed up in there!!!!! Ac is working toooo good now yessss!!!
Awesome! Glad to hear!!
If you use an oscillating saw ( I call it Mr buzzy because the sound it makes) you can easily cut the hole squarely and a lot less effort. Really fantastically done video.
Thank you for this helpful informative work
Best video i have seen for this fix good job.
Thank you!!!
@@iamdjnam 6666
Agreed
That was a wealth of information sir. It will come in handy some day as I just bought a 2005 Explorer XLS. Thank you for the video. Now on to try and removing a stuck CD in the cars player, it's the only issue thus far.
Thank you! Glad I could help!
I had to replace my radio/CD player for that
We had to replace our radio for that same issue as well.
Awesome explanation. I have this same problem and also pulled motor and cage out to clean out acorns from mice along with a rubber glove they drug into it as motor was loud and rattling. I knew something had gotten inside it.
Thanks for the video
This is why I'm scared to check mine! Tbh idk these things existed even until now.
Awesome fix it vid thanks!
Great job now this is a video that works . You are the man 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Appreciate you 💪🏻
I have a 2005 explorer, broken door just like yours, I used a soldering iron to cut my opening nice, thank you very much for your video, I just got done epoxy got mine, waiting for it to dry, again thank you !
Excellent idea! Didn’t even think to melt the plastic. That must’ve been a nice clean cut! Thanks for watching!
It's easier to just make a flap on the front. Remove the two screws, they are 8mm heads, then cut a little outside of the screw lugs. The plastic is soft, my short-blade lockback knife did the job. My big hand fit in there alright.
Update on today's fix - the swinging door is connected but the vacuum only moves it a little bit. There were some leaves on top of the fan, cleaned those out. Then I disconnected the vacuum to the door operator and plugged it, then stuck an unsharpened pencil through the narrow air intake above the "new door" and zip-tied it in place to hold the swinging door shut, with the eraser contacting the door. No outside air coming in now.
Also noticed that the door operator arm for the main vents in the middle was broken so I opened it all the way and wedged it in place with stout foam; disconnected the vacuum to that one also.
Thank you for taking your time to post this. I don't make a lot of money and I have to do everything myself. This really helps me.
Glad I could help. Thank you so much for watching. Any questions just let me know.
The video helped out a lot brother. I do recommend that if you have big hands like myself to take the screen that protects the blower motor off. That helped me out a lot and it made the job easier. The con of that is that I recommend putting any kind of thin filter so that nothing falls on the blower motor because if it does trust me you’ll hear it.
For sure definitely the right time to fab up a custom cabin air filter
Nice video. I tend to do this kind of job in the evening when using epoxy or adhesives to allow them to cure overnight before driving again.
Good deal. Didn’t think of that.
thank you!! mine had leaves covering the fan too now it will part your hair.
Super helpful. I found it easier to remove the vacuum pump and steel bracket to guide the pin back in since I have big hands. Your video was excellent.
I have the some problem I take the door aut but now I will put it back thanks for the video
Thank you for sharing.
sir please show to us how you cut that filter enclosue
Don’t be fooled this is a major job, especially if your hands are as big as your feet like mine. Careful of the blend door lever removal you will break it because you cannot see way up in there to see how it comes off, it doesn’t just pop off. There were 3 things wrong with my HVAC system. The gears were stripped on blend door actuator on the driver side, changed that, blend door was broken on the passenger side behind the glove box, cut that open fixed that, the defrost blend door lever was broken on the passenger side towards the middle up under the dash where the upper actuator operated it, fixed that by drilling a hole in the lever and putting a zip tie through the actuator valve lever and attaching it to the defrost blend door lever.
(Shew) 😮
UPDATE: drill a hole through the blend door and put a screw in the shaft behind the glove box, the epoxy failed now I have to do it again
Awesome video
Much appreciated thank you
Nice work... I have been having an issue with weak A/C in my 05 Mountaineer and assumed it was the vacuum check valve or vacuum canister... replaced the check valve and tested the cannister and all was good. Unfortunately, I still had weak AC. I was cleaning out my wife/kids crap since we got her a newer used car and noticed that black hinge piece on the floor. I did not know what it was and thought it may be from a previous repair or from one of my kids toys. I had a feeling that I should not throw it out so I threw it in the glove box. After seeing your video, it all makes sense. I was hoping to get it fixed before the cold hits and now it looks like I am going to have decent heat this winter. Also, I used some of your videos to help pull/ and do timing on the 4.0 SOHC last summer at ~230k and it is now ~245k and still sounds good. I plan to teach myself how to do auto paint next spring so I can finally get some new paint on the roof.
For anyone who had the c-shaped clip break on their hinge piece... I was able to get the door hinge epoxied back on but I was worried that the peg that sets in the actuator arm may fall out eventually without the c-clip. I got a metal brake caliper slide from a recent brake change (any small flat piece of metal), hammered it flat, and cut it down to ~dime size with a Dremel tool. I then used increasingly larger drill bits to increase the size of the hole until it was barely able to slide onto the "peg" portion of the hinge. (you can hammer increasingly larger nails through it as well). I had to twist it on. You can put a bit of epoxy on the piece before you twist it on. My backup plan was to find a shallow nut that would fit snugly and epoxy it on. If the peg ever breaks, I will probably drill it out and use a bolt, nut, and washer to secure the arm to the hinge.
Great video
Thanks!!
Awsome video. It was perfectly explained and filmed. I would like to see how to saw it open to access the door & how to get access to shove t-shirt to block the cold Minnesota winter air.
So many people ask for that. I may just have to make one! Stay tuned. :)
I will subscribe and hit the 🔔 . Thanks for your time & effort.
i'm sure by now someone has told you that you did not have to cut a slot....had you un-done 2 screws on each side the part that you cut out was a hinged door that you can lift up and gain access to the vent door to remove it...GREAT idea to use the glue I would not have thought of that!!!
Dang! I honestly had no idea, thank you for letting me know! Oh well, next time I fix one I will know to undo the screws. Thanks for commenting!
Brian - Thanks for adding your comment, saved me from hacking up my Explorer. I removed the 2 screws but it seemed the "door" was possibly glued shut at the bottom, would not easily swing up. I saw 2 other screw I could not get to, one on either side, so I made vertical cuts with a Dremel tool just outside the location of each of the 2 screws I did remove, then used a very sharp screwdriver to pry to "vent door" at the bottom edge and it opened. I only extracted the fallen door for now since I was working in 34 degree weather, did not glue the actuator hinge. That's good enough for now. I get both outside air and cabin air but that's fine, the heat is blowing like brand new!
@@alansolomon9601 Hey Alan, Guess what, In my post I forgot to say to use a razor knife or as you used a dremel tool to make vertical slits and THEN it becomes a hinged door...it appears that the engineers at ford created a hinged opening on later models. Glad you figured it out on your own. If you want really warm heat in your suv you had better shove a shirt or rag into the fresh air intake vent from inside the engine compartment until you can get the flap set in there...I don't think you will be very happy with the heat with the vent open in cold temps! You would not believe the PAIN I went through to repair the actuator arm and re-install the flap! and I could not find a replacement part..it seems that if you want the actuator arm you must buy the entire housing unit for the blower! I am so thankful that these folks posted their video on this problem, it literally saved my suv from the scrap yard. After fixing it I went ahead and detailed the hell out of it, new tires, new muffler system ($1500) they have 3 cat converters on the exhaust. Now I have great heat and air-condition! Mine is a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer Premier with the silver birch paint and leather interior.
Timing is everything, have a 04 Limited disassembled, and was just about to cut to have access to reassemble. Thank you for posting this, as a little heat applied, and the sucker right popped open!
Get a new clip! No epoxy! 😊Grey video. It solved so many problems,! Thanks!
Couldn’t find just the clip, looked everywhere.
Where did you get the clip?
i need to find that lever that slides into the door-any help you could provide would be appreciated
Hey I'm curious what would happen if we just kept the door off
Thanks for the vedio
Thanks buddy
Thank you thank you thank you !!
You’re welcome!
Can you please advise me regarding the ac air position, it changes with itself
Such an easy fix! Thank you for sharing I'll have to do that really soon because of the heat here in Texas!
Absolutely not an easy fix
Wow 😮 good 👍 one
You sound like Chris Fix. Anyway interesting tutorial thanks. If this ever happens to mine I'll know what to do.
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
I agree.. I thought it was Chris Fix for the first minute or so.
So many people say that. We actually live one town over from each other.
Ty
Oh how I wish you live in NC. My hands are too big and this is really a tight squeeze so I can't do this. 😢
GRACIAS AMIGO 🍺👊
💪🏻
Thank you! Going to check mine..... try to check mine anyways. Can you do it for me? What if theres a 🐁???
I had an 03 that I took the dash out 2 times to replace that stupid door assembly. 1st time it was as you noted, the actuator shaft just popped out. I just snapped it back together and tested with my Mighty Vac. That worked for about 8 months and then it broke that tab off so dash removal twice. Although the 2nd time, I had that dash out in < 1hr. If you want to do it correct, the dash isn't so bad but for column shifters DO NOT TAKE THE CABLE OUT THERE!! Take it off where it goes to the trans. That was the most difficult part...
That little plastic clip on the trans is definitely a breeze to do. I just didn’t wanna bust my back pulling the dash and I’m sure the 100k other people who watched this video don’t want to either lol
Super helpful vid, thanks for uploading. I just bought my second explorer, a mint 2003 eddie bauer 4.6L a few days ago, I'm absolutely loving it other than a few small things like this. Shouldn't be problem any more thanks to you! Any chance you know what the cause of a slow filling fuel tank would be? I went to fill it up for the first time and the fuel pump just clicks off after a second or two of filling, it took me forever to fill it up at a low speed. Thanks in advance
Hey bud! Such a common problem on the explorers. Check your filler neck, there’s a purge valve to allow air out and gas in. If it’s collapsed, the gas will continually click off like that.
How did you put that blue cloth in front of the outside air input?
I removed the cowl and that area is covered from the passenger side to the center.
th-cam.com/video/PGajPBxOV7Q/w-d-xo.html
Great video, thank you. When the recirc door is closed, will it prevent mice from coming in through the fresh air vents, and how do you access the fresh air vents, where you put your t-shirt?
Behind the plastic cowl near the wiper blades is a sealed little access hole. That’s the corridor where rain water gets diverted to the ground from under the windshield. In that corridor, you will see the fresh air inlet (kinda looks like a box with grid). You can stick your hand in there and stuff a shirt in the opening. Mice won’t be able to get to it, so you’re good on that. Thanks for the sub!!!
@@iamdjnam Thank you, again. I removed the black cowl, but didn't find the vent. Could you be a little more specific on the location of the vent. Do you need to remover the cowl?
You need to remove the entire cowl. Then underneath there is this factory sealed and glued grommet/cap. Approx 6”x8” long. Cut the glue away and you can open it up.
Great video
BUT with the large hole there does it make a diff in the strength of the air flow in other words will all the air flow out that hole instead of where is supposed to be directed through?
I left it open and noticed no difference whatsoever in air flow.
Could the hinge and flap door be repaired/jb weled outside first then insert/wiggled into place Or it has to be jb welded inside in one shot?
Nope you have to put the door in and then slide the hinge into place.
Do you know if the 2001 explorer sport track has a cabin filter ??
It does not.
Can you show how to replace the cabin air filter
There is no cabin air filter. The Explorer never came with one. You can custom make one and slide it in the air box that we cut open.
Where can i purchase the hinge for explorer 03. Mine didn't have one just a metal handle
You can’t. They don’t sell it.
Question. When you glue the broken piece back into the door is the dial on the air turned to the off position, which is all the way open for the door?
The vacuum line is disconnected at the actuator so it doesn’t matter what position the AC knob is on.
@@iamdjnam Thank you. What would you recommend if the "lever" arm/piece is totally missing. Id rather not buy the whole duct/inlet. I thought about just taping the door over the opening so it is always closed off.
I'm 67 yr old female trying to get to my blower mower below the cabin, did put a filter in it but need to clean my blower fan. Mouse urine in hvac vents. I did it before but do not remember how I got to it. Also how can I get urine out of vents? Please help. Thank you.
Ok. I get it. But what if I don’t want to cut it like u did? Can I still get to door?
Remove blower motor and net
Question..Do you have to cover gap that was cut with sawzall.
Nope. Leave it open.
Good vid but i got one question. I started pryin open that outer plastic covering so i can see the door and i think some of the plastic bits fell into the part that sucks air in, could this cause damage to abythijg?
You can remove the whole blower assembly. It’s held in by a few little screws. Will give you the chance to clean out whatever fell in. You don’t need to if you don’t want to. It won’t hurt anything.
@@iamdjnam perfect. Thanks so much for getting back to me in still in the middle of cutting out that plastic lol
Do you know the part number for the small hinge that broken with the “tooth” off
I do not, but I will tell you this.....they don’t sell just the hinge. I looked everywhere. You have to buy the whole damn air box assembly.
Platinum Garage thanks 👍🏼will it work in position with super glue ?
Yes! Super glue is perfect.
Would this be the same for the Lincoln aviator?
No.
shade tree hack but it works not my cup of tea but should have to change the dry worn-out foam while the door was out
Yup yup
I’m going to try this. Thanks! Why did you put the T-shirt in there?
C T Before I fixed the door I put shirts in there to prevent cold air from coming in during the winter.
Platinum Garage Oh okay. Thanks for the reply. Does this fix help the back AC as well?
Yes it does!
Platinum Garage Thanks!
For the “window” you cut into the plastic, did you tape it back up afterwards that way the air that the blower motor blows out goes into the vents and not out this window you cut?
That is an air inlet. Not outlet. The motor doesn’t blow that direction. I left the window open.
@@iamdjnam Thank you for the prompt reply. Do you know what the technical name for that part that you cut into is?
Air inlet duct. Ford (1L2Z-18B259-AC).
@@iamdjnam Thank you very much!
I will fix customers car when they are not watching. 😂
Do you need to fix the plastic box after cutting it open? Wouldn’t that cause the vents to not blow at all and all the air to come from under the glove box?
Nope you do not need to fix it. That box is air inlet, it pulls air in. Doesn’t blow it out. This procedure will actually increase air flow from your vents.
Platinum Garage Sweet man thanks, tons of help!
Dear,my friend,whath about the Air Filter for the Explorer,Thanks.
Located under the hood behind the headlight. There is no cabin air filter.
How did you get the actuator leveler out
The actuator is held by 2 screws. The hinge just hooks onto the actuator.
Thanks for the vid. How did you get the tshirt in there?
Click on my channel, I posted a part 2 video explaining it
@@iamdjnam what happened to the part two? I watched it before and it's no longer there?
How did you get the tshirt in? I don't have a broken door, I have a mouse nest I'm trying to get to and clean out.
Under the cowl is an access panel by the passenger side wiper. Beneath that panel is the channel in which rain water drains that runs down the windshield. You will see the fresh air inlet, that’s where I put the shirt.
Thank you! Appreciate it. I will have to try when I get home. Didnt see it last night.
I have stinking leaves trapped somewhere in the system of my 2002 Ranger. I can't figure out how to remove them and clean up. I have cold air but it struggles blowing out of the vents even on max fan.
On the ranger I think the blower is under the hood. You can take out that blower motor and vacuum out the leaves behind it. I did the same thing on my F250.
Platinum Garage It worked! It was tough getting 20 year old leaves out of there. I had to scrape with my fingers and repeat. Scrape, vacuum, scrape and vac and it's perfect! Thanks brother!
Awesome!! Happy to hear it worked!!
Ok this might sound like a silly question to you but is the heater box control lever screwed to the top of the condenser? I'm am an amateur at this and trying to follow your video to achieve this and my sister and I just don't feel where the piece sticks out to attach to the door.
It bolts to the top of that plastic box on the left side. If you reach your hand up to the left you will feel it. You’ll get a better view once you chop your way in and remove the broken door. Also, there is a little metal bracket directly behind the glovebox I recommend removing for better clearance.
@@iamdjnam well I cut into the heater box removed the door felt up to and couldn't find anything just a hole i could put my finger into and touch the other finger on the outside of the housing I couldn't feel anything else.
Wow that’s strange! There could be a chance the entire actuator and hinge was removed by the previous owner. If you stick your hand in the box and go to the top left, there should be a pivot hinge like shown in the video.
@@iamdjnam i don't think so. I'm the 2nd owner and I've had it for about 15-16 yrs and it was working when I got it. Ac didn't work for a few years and I'm just getting to it replaced hose and fuses was working really well then door fell now trying to figure this out.
The condenser is in front of the radiator behind the grill. It's definitely not screwed to the condenser.
Hey so I need to cover up after I cut it with the saw ?
Nope leave it be you’ll be perfect
@@iamdjnam thanks bro
I was able to remove the door but now no air blowing out of my 4 dashboard vents? Why?
Blend door actuator or loss of vacuum to the cabin
Ok you cut that part so how you covered back?
Left it open
Hey I actually have alot of issues with a ford 02 explorer everytime I put a new belt tensioner part of it sucks into the fan clutch and I can't figure out what is wrong with it
What gets pulled in? The belt, or the tensioner? Check your harmonic balancer. It’s a two piece design that fails, splits, and starts to cause all sorts of problems.
@@iamdjnam a quarter of the whole serpentine belt sucks into the fan clutch
Definitely check the harmonic balancer. Also take the belt off and spin the compressor and PS pump by hand. See if anything is binding.
@@xxdeathreaperxx2024 also check if the tensioner out isn't pulley is bad.
Word up! When that next motor going for sale? Clifton NJ
Hey man! My trailer has been snowed in lol I haven’t had a parts truck in over a month. I usually sell my engines for $500 next time I have one I’ll hit you up!
@@iamdjnam kool
What if I were to remove that door and leave it off? Would that just mean I can’t do max ac?
You would constantly be bringing in outside air. If you live in cold climates you will feel ice cold air in the winter entering behind the glove box.
@@iamdjnam is the door usually open unless I have max ac selected? Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions
@@austinmike6046 yes the door is usually open but in such a way that prevents cold air from being noticed. It only closes on Max AC
@@iamdjnam great, thanks for the help!
Is this a problem on 2nd gen too?
I don’t believe so, although it’s worth looking into.
A sawsall LOL.
VtEc LoL
Is this the same for a ford expedition?
No. Expedition doesn’t have this issue.
Is cutting into the box the only way to get in there to fix it? Also I just bought a used explorer and I'm gradually making my own improvements, are there anymore hacks like this or other faults I should check out?
You can drop the blower motor and go in from there too. But you can’t get the door out that way. The only other way is to remove the entire dash and replace the whole thing using the $150 kit. As far as other stuff goes, wd40 to fix the door ajar light, and zip ties for the blend door when it breaks.
@@iamdjnam thanks for the quick reply. Yeah I'm not trying to replace the whole thing. I'm not even sure if it's loose TBH the air just doesn't seem to be that cold so I'll take a look at options A and if that's too annoying I'll cut it open. The door ajar thing happened the first month I got it, that was a fun surprise
@@iamdjnam WHERE do I put the WD40 for the door ajar light? I look like a nut running around the car opening and slamming the doors all the time.
Email me using the address in the description and I will send you a pic
How in the world did you get the plastic piece back on? How did you get it off that metal arm it’s connected to and mine stopped moving up and down when I took it off now I have no damn clue how to get it back on there or if it’s even going to work again
It pulls out and pivots off of the actuator. You can remove the 2 8mm bolts that holds the actuator on to help. It’s quite simple once you get the hinge on, the door only fits one way.
Platinum Garage now It won’t close any ideas with that? I got it back on and glued but it stays open
Matt Roberts did your little vacuum hose pop off? It will only close with the car running.
Platinum Garage I had to start it haha. Thanks man you’ve helped a ton!
Don't hack that much out,just make some cuts with a sharp utility knife,take out the two outside screws and cut it high enough to get your hands in there,then figure out how to put the hinges back,next pull it out and fill the broken side hole with some high temp rtv ,put it back in and push the plastic hinge in and let it set up for an hour,don't use too much or it could squeeze out and cause it to stick,then because you didn't hack it all out the plastic housing can go back together,and put in the two screws to the housing and because you used a sharp knife at the corners you can't tell it's ever been open.
Hey if it works it works
You didn’t have to cut it out.. the 3 bolts on the face of the housing come out and there’s a flap you can pull the door out of
I know...
Yes, but it's not big enough to put your hand in.
So these don’t have a filter ?
Nope!
@@iamdjnam damn thanks my dad has a sport trac and I was trippin lol
Fuck yeah life saver
Gotchu man thanks for watching!
Did cut rectangle opening because there is no way for me to reach in in there and connect door to actuator
You can just leave the door out but if you live in colder climates and use the heat, it will fog the windows.
Never mind we watched the video and I was one of the very first thing you said when you open the glove compartment box great video by the way
Yeah I'm in Southern California only gets hot during the summer
No wonder he sounds like Chris fix because he’s from Jersey
I live next town over from him lmao