I stopped using any bushings stamped SKP as I have had them walk out of the rear of the case. Some of their bushings after replacement have more clearance than the used ones I removed! Have tried to find out where this junk is made and it seems to be a secret!
That sucks: I always check the clearance because ive also see that from time to time…My guess those bushings are made in China but who knows for sure, lol…I havent had anything walk out on me yet (knock on wood) but will keep an eye out for those going forward. Some builders like to use locctite on the bushings but I’ve never done so…
I have taken a brake cylinder hone to some of the bushings to get them to fit. The kits I used to buy all had Federal Mogul bushings, never had a problem with them. Now, it seems that all the bushings need to be honed
Yep, im seeing that more as well across different transmissions. I also have a brake hone, will be using it more often…thanks for sharing the tip, Peter!
@@nickstransmissions Glad I could help you. I never liked the 700R4, back in the 80s, when that trans came out, the pump rings broke, and if you didn't catch it in time, you didn't have a suitable core to trade in, it cost an extra $125.00. I liked the 200 4R better, but they had pump problems too. I put quite a few of the Transgo Shift kits in them, I wouldn't rebuild one without the Shift Kit.
I usually have issues w/smaller bushings, especially in the gear trains on TH400s, 4L80s, etc but a few minutes w/400,600 grit sand paper clears it up. That 700 was the first time I had trouble w/ an extension housing bushing in ages. I'll be doing a video series on the 2004R soon as I have a couple in the backlog to start working on... They and the 700s definitely have their quirks (especially those 82-E84 w/the 27-spline input shafts), though it takes a bit more work to get a 200-4R to shift as crisply/firmly as required for a 700r4 though it's not terribly difficult. Many folks like and prefer the 200-4Rs because of their relatively smaller footprint in the trans tunnels of older/classic vehicles as well as their more evenly spaced gear ratios, especially first to second gear. The majority of my 200r4 builds are for resto-mods and/or hot rods swapping out TH350s, etc (in fact can't remember the last time I rebuilt a 200-4R for a strictly stock application where the trans went back into the same vehicle it came out of, haha).
@@nickstransmissions I have a 200 4R, that I received as a core for a 350 I did for an 80s G body. I think that the car originally had a 307 Olds engine, coupled to a 200 4R. Somebody swapped in an older Olds engine that had a wicked cam, and with the stock converter it was a real bear to drive. I would have changed the covertor, and kept the overdrive, but his mechanic insisted on putting a 350 in. I had the pan off to drain it, no junk in the pan, it would be a good trans for somebody. Why is it that when people replace a trans, it is so hard to drain the oil out of them. It sure made a mess in the bed of his truck.
Great question! I suppose it makes too much sense to drain the fluid vs having it spill out all over the bed of the truck or trunk in the cases where people are throwing them in the truck, lol...I have my customers drain the pan before bringing me the trans; I also instruct them to power-wash the case if it's particularly dirty or muddy...no way im sticking a trans that looked like it was just dredged out of quicksand in my hot tank. If they don't have a pressure washer, i charge a small cleaning fee and use my heated power washer to give it a rinse before disassembly... Odd choice his mechanic or him made w/respect to the TH350 vs 200-4R unless they felt the engine was making too much power for the 200 but then again, if so it was also making too much for the TH350 as well...Agree, put a higher stall converter on it and run the 200-4R (maybe beef it up a bit to handle the additional power). Yep, strange.
Thanks, Garth! Appreciate the kind words...And to your point, I'm looking to replace that tear down bench with a wider, deeper bench with a much better drainage system as well as a fab bench where I can do things like remove and reinstall things like bushings without the bench vibrating like a magnitude 10 earthquake, lol. That bench was $50 and I've had it for years but was more of a 'cheap and ready now' solution vs a longer term answer.
@@nickstransmissionsHi Nick. These might be a better fit for your "worm" groove finishing for flat surface to the valve body. th-cam.com/video/sAXaSQjqAU8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gEy5eZN3Ta-UZNnf&t=618 Norton Products
@@nickstransmissions Assembly bench would likely need to be more robust vs. tear down I would presume to take the pounding of bushings or maybe a small work bench area just for that purpose my guess. Good to know that you have the information in mind between the many versions and generations of transmissions as that is so so important to have down pat...few builders keep that information fresh in their mind and make mistakes.
Thanks for the rec, Garth! Will look into those for case belly surface finishing - always on the lookout for new/better products and techniques so appreciate you sharing. I actually don't use the assembly bench for things like bushing R/R as all that's done prior to parts making it onto the assembly bench. The assembly bench is just for putting together the subassemblies then staging them for installation into the case in the order they'd be handled so it doesn't need to be super solid. Most bushings are pulled via my blind hole puller sets or via the press but a few get pounded out which is why i'd prefer a separate station and beefy bench for that and related tasks.
Hey man, if you're going to be doing a lot of 700Rs and 4L60Es, I'd buy the set that's made specifically for those transmissions - search Amazon or eBay, "4L60E Bushing Driver set"...Otherwise any master transmission bushing driver set will work.
thank you for the info you share and the excellent video's!!! do you order all the parts seperate or is there a kit where all the upgrade parts for a standard (gm 400cu '79 surburban 4wd) setup? my gearbox comes from a '92 silverado.
Thank you for watching Henri! I get most of my parts locally at my hard parts supplier but sometimes will by the 'Deluxe' kits on eBay (or those that come with Alto Reds or Raybestos Stage One friction modules and Alto HP wide 2-4 bands).
Their kits are decent but typically overpriced fir what you'd pay for the same stuff elsewhere. If you're looking for a good "all in one" type kit with decent clutches, search "4L60E Deluxe Power Pack" and a bunch of results will appear. All of them have Alto's power pack which is 9 frictions, 8 steels in the 3-4 clutch pack. Some kits have Alto Reds and Kolene steels while other, less expensive kits feature Alto High Energy frictions, also excellent clutches. I have them in my 03 Tahoe's 4L60E.
😂Hi, what is the right position for the rear case bushing installation?. The bushing has two notches and the case bushing space has an oil passage cavity in one side.
If your bushing is directional, install it so that the mouth/opening of the oil groove faces inwards toward the case. I just looked at five different rear case bushings from various 700R4 and 4L60E bushing kits and all have the oil groove opening at both sides so if yours is like that, it wont matter which way it goes in. Just make sure it's installed square and that the front of the bushing is not penetrating into the beveled part of the rear case bore. Otherwise it may interfere with the rear case thrust bearing.
HELP meeee. So I have an 89 formula with 350 -700r4 marrige stock and its eating flywheels.Pretty sure not thrust bearing,leaning towards front pump body bushing allowing torque convertor movement. Pulling it out probably today or latest this weekend. I do not want to dig in and do rebuild this is one of the best functioning transmissions ive ever owned. There could also be a very very slim chance at operator error during install but i dont think so. Also slim chance of warped flexplate from Autozone but been through 3 flexplates and a torque convertor in 2 years,the original convertor was waaaaaaay out of balance and thinking maybe this did something to bushings? Any advice? As I said total rebuild is not fasible,I could pick up another 700r4 for 400 bucks but I have no idea what shape its in.
Do you have any videos of proper flexplate to crank tightening patter if there is one and proper torque covertor bolt install. Mine flexplate has one hole slightly oblongated and wondering if I am not seating torque covertor to flexplate properly. This current flexplate cracked as soon as car started.,a fella could hear it.
No but you tighten / torque the flexplate going from one side to other until all bolts are torqued to spec. Id replace your flexplate to crank bolts with a set from ARP as the factory bolts are prob worn (could be the root of the problem if you have been reusing them) and perhaps look into a better quality flexplate such as a SFI certified one from TCI. Between those two things and the new pump, you should be good to go.
Hi Scott, There's no 'face plate' to speak of (you're prob referring to the pump body, which is the visible half of the pump you see when looking at the front of the transmission)...You can watch my other 700R4 videos in the 700R4 playlist (either teardown and inspection or rebuild) to see how to remove and reinstall the pump after either replacing it with a remanufactured version or overhauling your existing pump. That said, while it's possible the pump could be the culprit behind your recurring flex plate failures, my guess is that it's something else. But replacing or overhauling the pump (new bushing, seal, etc) should be sufficient to rule the pump in or out as the underlying cause behind your flex plate issues.
@@nickstransmissions Briefly as possible, car was used as a 1/4 track car for kids lol. Runs and shifts awesome,had it 3 years. 2 years ago,heard cracked flexplate. Changed it out wasnt crackd but holes were completly reamed out and bolts were tightin convertor.Put new plate in and the whole car wobbled and studdered badly, unbalanced convertor something fierce. Put in new convertor (abliet 2400 stall) and was fine for 12 months. Idiot who put it in left housing bolts loose and i assume cracked 2nd plate. I installd 3rd plate and well,thats where im at.
Gotcha...Install a SFI certified flex plate w/ a set of ARP flex plate-crank bolts and ARP torque converter to flex plate bolts...stock-replacement flex plates from auto parts stores shouldn't be used in any race applications as they sometimes crack or shatter at high RPMs.
![[UNCUT]"ทนายตั้ม" แฉยับ! ความลับสวรรค์ ใครคือ "บิ๊กเทวดา" ของบอสพอล l คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l 15 ต.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ru9fpSaUwdA/mqdefault.jpg)
This video was incredibly helpful as always good sir. Thank you kindly and hope this 700 runs like a new one
You're welcome, Jordan!
I stopped using any bushings stamped SKP as I have had them walk out of the rear of the case. Some of their bushings after replacement have more clearance than the used ones I removed! Have tried to find out where this junk is made and it seems to be a secret!
That sucks: I always check the clearance because ive also see that from time to time…My guess those bushings are made in China but who knows for sure, lol…I havent had anything walk out on me yet (knock on wood) but will keep an eye out for those going forward. Some builders like to use locctite on the bushings but I’ve never done so…
Yeah I noticed that they are a slight bigger clearance and didn’t use them either
Thank you for a great video
You're welcome, Alan and thank you for watching!
I have taken a brake cylinder hone to some of the bushings to get them to fit. The kits I used to buy all had Federal Mogul bushings, never had a problem with them. Now, it seems that all the bushings need to be honed
Yep, im seeing that more as well across different transmissions. I also have a brake hone, will be using it more often…thanks for sharing the tip, Peter!
@@nickstransmissions Glad I could help you. I never liked the 700R4, back in the 80s, when that trans came out, the pump rings broke, and if you didn't catch it in time, you didn't have a suitable core to trade in, it cost an extra $125.00. I liked the 200 4R better, but they had pump problems too. I put quite a few of the Transgo Shift kits in them, I wouldn't rebuild one without the Shift Kit.
I usually have issues w/smaller bushings, especially in the gear trains on TH400s, 4L80s, etc but a few minutes w/400,600 grit sand paper clears it up. That 700 was the first time I had trouble w/ an extension housing bushing in ages. I'll be doing a video series on the 2004R soon as I have a couple in the backlog to start working on...
They and the 700s definitely have their quirks (especially those 82-E84 w/the 27-spline input shafts), though it takes a bit more work to get a 200-4R to shift as crisply/firmly as required for a 700r4 though it's not terribly difficult. Many folks like and prefer the 200-4Rs because of their relatively smaller footprint in the trans tunnels of older/classic vehicles as well as their more evenly spaced gear ratios, especially first to second gear. The majority of my 200r4 builds are for resto-mods and/or hot rods swapping out TH350s, etc (in fact can't remember the last time I rebuilt a 200-4R for a strictly stock application where the trans went back into the same vehicle it came out of, haha).
@@nickstransmissions I have a 200 4R, that I received as a core for a 350 I did for an 80s G body. I think that the car originally had a 307 Olds engine, coupled to a 200 4R. Somebody swapped in an older Olds engine that had a wicked cam, and with the stock converter it was a real bear to drive. I would have changed the covertor, and kept the overdrive, but his mechanic insisted on putting a 350 in. I had the pan off to drain it, no junk in the pan, it would be a good trans for somebody. Why is it that when people replace a trans, it is so hard to drain the oil out of them. It sure made a mess in the bed of his truck.
Great question! I suppose it makes too much sense to drain the fluid vs having it spill out all over the bed of the truck or trunk in the cases where people are throwing them in the truck, lol...I have my customers drain the pan before bringing me the trans; I also instruct them to power-wash the case if it's particularly dirty or muddy...no way im sticking a trans that looked like it was just dredged out of quicksand in my hot tank. If they don't have a pressure washer, i charge a small cleaning fee and use my heated power washer to give it a rinse before disassembly...
Odd choice his mechanic or him made w/respect to the TH350 vs 200-4R unless they felt the engine was making too much power for the 200 but then again, if so it was also making too much for the TH350 as well...Agree, put a higher stall converter on it and run the 200-4R (maybe beef it up a bit to handle the additional power). Yep, strange.
AWESOME MAN!
Thanks, HMG!!
Good work ! Minor thing but I'd stiffen up that work bench which will help in a big way with installing bushings etc.
Thanks, Garth! Appreciate the kind words...And to your point, I'm looking to replace that tear down bench with a wider, deeper bench with a much better drainage system as well as a fab bench where I can do things like remove and reinstall things like bushings without the bench vibrating like a magnitude 10 earthquake, lol.
That bench was $50 and I've had it for years but was more of a 'cheap and ready now' solution vs a longer term answer.
@@nickstransmissionsHi Nick. These might be a better fit for your "worm" groove finishing for flat surface to the valve body. th-cam.com/video/sAXaSQjqAU8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gEy5eZN3Ta-UZNnf&t=618
Norton Products
@@nickstransmissions Assembly bench would likely need to be more robust vs. tear down I would presume to take the pounding of bushings or maybe a small work bench area just for that purpose my guess.
Good to know that you have the information in mind between the many versions and generations of transmissions as that is so so important to have down pat...few builders keep that information fresh in their mind and make mistakes.
Thanks for the rec, Garth! Will look into those for case belly surface finishing - always on the lookout for new/better products and techniques so appreciate you sharing.
I actually don't use the assembly bench for things like bushing R/R as all that's done prior to parts making it onto the assembly bench. The assembly bench is just for putting together the subassemblies then staging them for installation into the case in the order they'd be handled so it doesn't need to be super solid. Most bushings are pulled via my blind hole puller sets or via the press but a few get pounded out which is why i'd prefer a separate station and beefy bench for that and related tasks.
Your channel is addictive!
-What kit do you recommend for bushing service? Are they make/model specific?
Hey man, if you're going to be doing a lot of 700Rs and 4L60Es, I'd buy the set that's made specifically for those transmissions - search Amazon or eBay, "4L60E Bushing Driver set"...Otherwise any master transmission bushing driver set will work.
@@nickstransmissions thanks! I’ll do some searching
thank you for the info you share and the excellent video's!!! do you order all the parts seperate or is there a kit where all the upgrade parts for a standard (gm 400cu '79 surburban 4wd) setup? my gearbox comes from a '92 silverado.
Thank you for watching Henri! I get most of my parts locally at my hard parts supplier but sometimes will by the 'Deluxe' kits on eBay (or those that come with Alto Reds or Raybestos Stage One friction modules and Alto HP wide 2-4 bands).
@@nickstransmissions is the monster trans mission 'deluxe'kit a good and complete kit? What lube do you use, just regular grease?
Their kits are decent but typically overpriced fir what you'd pay for the same stuff elsewhere. If you're looking for a good "all in one" type kit with decent clutches, search "4L60E Deluxe Power Pack" and a bunch of results will appear. All of them have Alto's power pack which is 9 frictions, 8 steels in the 3-4 clutch pack. Some kits have Alto Reds and Kolene steels while other, less expensive kits feature Alto High Energy frictions, also excellent clutches. I have them in my 03 Tahoe's 4L60E.
😂Hi, what is the right position for the rear case bushing installation?. The bushing has two notches and the case bushing space has an oil passage cavity in one side.
If your bushing is directional, install it so that the mouth/opening of the oil groove faces inwards toward the case. I just looked at five different rear case bushings from various 700R4 and 4L60E bushing kits and all have the oil groove opening at both sides so if yours is like that, it wont matter which way it goes in. Just make sure it's installed square and that the front of the bushing is not penetrating into the beveled part of the rear case bore. Otherwise it may interfere with the rear case thrust bearing.
Try holding your tail housing bushing just a little, works on the 400
HELP meeee. So I have an 89 formula with 350 -700r4 marrige stock and its eating flywheels.Pretty sure not thrust bearing,leaning towards front pump body bushing allowing torque convertor movement. Pulling it out probably today or latest this weekend. I do not want to dig in and do rebuild this is one of the best functioning transmissions ive ever owned. There could also be a very very slim chance at operator error during install but i dont think so. Also slim chance of warped flexplate from Autozone but been through 3 flexplates and a torque convertor in 2 years,the original convertor was waaaaaaay out of balance and thinking maybe this did something to bushings? Any advice? As I said total rebuild is not fasible,I could pick up another 700r4 for 400 bucks but I have no idea what shape its in.
Do you have any videos of proper flexplate to crank tightening patter if there is one and proper torque covertor bolt install. Mine flexplate has one hole slightly oblongated and wondering if I am not seating torque covertor to flexplate properly. This current flexplate cracked as soon as car started.,a fella could hear it.
No but you tighten / torque the flexplate going from one side to other until all bolts are torqued to spec. Id replace your flexplate to crank bolts with a set from ARP as the factory bolts are prob worn (could be the root of the problem if you have been reusing them) and perhaps look into a better quality flexplate such as a SFI certified one from TCI. Between those two things and the new pump, you should be good to go.
I guess my question is can i just take off that front pump faceplate and replace that bushing or doea a fella have to take the whole thing apart
Hi Scott,
There's no 'face plate' to speak of (you're prob referring to the pump body, which is the visible half of the pump you see when looking at the front of the transmission)...You can watch my other 700R4 videos in the 700R4 playlist (either teardown and inspection or rebuild) to see how to remove and reinstall the pump after either replacing it with a remanufactured version or overhauling your existing pump.
That said, while it's possible the pump could be the culprit behind your recurring flex plate failures, my guess is that it's something else. But replacing or overhauling the pump (new bushing, seal, etc) should be sufficient to rule the pump in or out as the underlying cause behind your flex plate issues.
@@nickstransmissions OK,this morning was the first time ive seen one of your videos will subscrib and check into vids later this morning.
Awesome, thank you Scott! Appreciate the viewership and sub....Check out my 700R4 playlist and post back w/any questions you may have.
@@nickstransmissions Briefly as possible, car was used as a 1/4 track car for kids lol. Runs and shifts awesome,had it 3 years. 2 years ago,heard cracked flexplate. Changed it out wasnt crackd but holes were completly reamed out and bolts were tightin convertor.Put new plate in and the whole car wobbled and studdered badly, unbalanced convertor something fierce. Put in new convertor (abliet 2400 stall) and was fine for 12 months. Idiot who put it in left housing bolts loose and i assume cracked 2nd plate. I installd 3rd plate and well,thats where im at.
Gotcha...Install a SFI certified flex plate w/ a set of ARP flex plate-crank bolts and ARP torque converter to flex plate bolts...stock-replacement flex plates from auto parts stores shouldn't be used in any race applications as they sometimes crack or shatter at high RPMs.