How To Set Ignition Timing on a Honda CB550
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ต.ค. 2024
- How to set static ignition timing on a Honda CB550.
Should be a very similar process for CB750's as well.
Tools, Gear, and Parts used: www.amazon.com...
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Just a note, the retaining bolt is actually a 23mm socket, not 24mm. 24mm will work though, but might slip occasionally.
Love the videos, thank you for all the effort you put into them!
Just happened on this video and sure took me back in time! 43 years to be exact. I bought a brand new '74 CB 550. Metal flake orange. I don't think the oil ever got dirty in the 4 years I rode it. Really enjoyed riding back then but I'd be scared to death to ride now. Thanks for video!
I just got the same one
Thanks for your videos, I just purchased a 74 CB 550 and I am in the process of cleaning it up to ride. Your videos have been extremely helpful.
Just picked up one of those test lights at the local auto store, can't wait to try this and see if my timing is set correctly. Looks pretty easy. I was able to check my valve clearance after watching one of your videos. A lot of this stuff isn't that difficult. Just did my first carb clean and carb sync recently too.
Years ago on a CB750 I owned, I had an aftermarket point set that used Delco (GM) points that could be adjusted with an Allen wrench and then set with a dwell meter. I checked timing with a timing light. This was the same set-up I used with my 71 454 Vette.
Hey man, just want to thank you for making this video. It really helped me out with the timing part. Love other videos you made as well. Awesome!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Be sure to adjust the points first. Also, you can just use a multimeter without having to buy a light. Also, it's a good idea to replace the condensers (cheap) when you adjust the timing.
Always set point dwell (point gap) with dwell meter first on each set of points. Then adjust timing with a stroboscope (timing light) with engine running. This can show the actual ignition timing above 2500 rpm (full advance) which is where your engine will spend most of it's operating life on the highway.
Japanese motos of that era do not use Phillips screws, they are JIS screws. Get a set of JIS screwdrivers to avoid camming out/messing up the screw heads.
I think I broke or stripped my timing nut. How do I fix that or am I totally screwed? Thanks for any info and love your vids!
for the last couple years i've been having hard time getting the F mark to line up with the case mark, using a strobe after setting the dwell both points , so the backing plate is snug in it's races, advance mechanism is good, fresh stock advance, again with the strobe the F mark is to the left of the case mark, i'll rotate the plate clockwise, as the mark travels towards the case mark it just never makes it there, and as soon as i touch the plate to return it the mark jumps to almost the full advanced double marks. the motor then is stumbling i'll return the plate back to the other side. and the f mark comes into view but to the left still. applying pressure to the plate from different angles 1, 5 and 9 o-clock i can get the mark closer. then 2&3 check it's vibrating ( i understand that may be due to the bolt that fastens the advance mechanism and the "special" nut not being centered. if everything comes together, and 1 bump to the plate anywhere sends it to the scenario above, then it's difficult to get back. any ideas?
I'm in the same spot - I run out of adjustment before I can get them to line up. Not sure how to solve that.
Good vid on timing, what about setting the point gap?
Sure, next time I get my hands on a bike that has some I will try and put a video together. The only bike I have in the shop now is my Triumph with an electronic ignition.
Great, love the vids...stayed up way past my bedtime last night watching them. I just picked up a Honda 550Four in DC that has been leaning up against a fence since 1982...really complete, never hacked on...looking to your vids as a great resource.
Great video men right on point!
When trying to do this exercise, as soon as I attach my test light it lights up and stays lit regardless of turning the crank. It does this even with the key OFF! I'm guessing I've got a ground issue. Unfortunately electrical isn't my strong suit. Where do you recommend I start?
I’m on the same boat . If I figure it out I’ll give you a heads up.
You ever figure anything out on this? Got the same issue..
@@piglover5000 Points were dirty and 1-4 points were beating into each other. I ended getting an electronic ignition from "Charlies Place" in socal where i live and now all cylinders run well. hope this helps
Great video and helpful.....Thanks!!
Any info on wiring a 72 cb500 as of now I have 1 green and 1 black coming from the points n that's it
Would this be the same process for a 97 cb750? The manual says to open the left crankcase well the insides look completely different and oil spilled out lol (in the manual it didn't show oil )
Awsome. Thanks!
Would this work with any older bike? Same technique? I got a 78’ Kawasaki kz650 and pretty much have the same similar points as your CB
Hi I am a new subscriber and new to bikes. My 1975 cb 550 leaks gas when it’s turn off through the bottom and it won’t stop, what could it be?
my CB 650 has electronic ignition. Is it the same procedure ?
I just picked up a 74 cb550k thats been sittong for years! I got it running but only stays running on choke and giving it gas. Do I need to adjust carbs? I don't know what I'm doing. I need some parts for it, am I able to find parts for a bike this old? Clutch isn't engaging even when i lift the piece on motor that cable connects to. Main concern is keeping it idling on its own. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
I have the mark between the T & F on 1-4 lined up with the mark on the motor. But when I twist the plate the light never turns off. It’s always on no matter what the position of the plate. Do I have bad points? Or?
Travis M
Try and adjust the points gap. It sounds like they are never breaking contact
Hi! I am having the same issue! Do you manage to fix it if so how do you do it?
@@manuar1000 It’s been years but I think it was a matter of setting the gap between the points.
Hey classic, I have a 83 NH cb550 but under my timing cover looks completely different.. is there another cover to get to this?
I just got a cb550ss 76 it ain't ran in years and it isn't getting a spark at all I don't have a battery in it im just using the kick start can you help me??
Just did this on my 78 cb550. 1-4 were perfect. 2-3 stayed lit the entire crankshaft rotation. I checked wiring. Bad condenser? Bad coil? I noticed on the way your points are wired, the 1-4 blue and green seem to be on the same side of the screw. My PO has the ground on the head side of the screw and the positive on the nut side. Matter?
I wouldn't think that would matter. If the light stayed on that means the points are not breaking apart. Do you see them moving when you're rotating the crank?
Yes. I'll clean and gap points again tonight. Something in that circuit is grounded to make it stay lit. The circuit is closed. Maybe the green ground is touching something. Hmm. I'll report back. I've been working on this since Jan. 22 and I want to fire it up!
No go. Bad condenser? Maybe I'll switch condensers and see hat happens.
What happened?
Why didn't you match the permanent mark with the advance mark on the plate?
Any thoughts when the test light won't come on at all, no matter how the adjustment? The key is in the on position. Is there a way to test if the capacitors are bad?
Having the same issue. Were you able to find a solution?
Kyle Hanson Yes, after some research, I thought capacitors could be bad. I ordered new capacitors and points at 4into1.com (Dime City also had them) and went ahead and switched them out. Test light worked after that and was able to get everything timed correctly with help from this video. Everything now runs smoothly. Hope that helps. Good luck.
With electric ignitions, is the timing process still the same??
Yes it should be similar to get the base timing set.
thanks!
Hey my 1&4 is off but 2&3 is on. what do you mean by turn the plates? just turn the plate the around the slot of the screw or turn 360 until the light go on
You can loosen the phillips screws to rotate the whole points plate until the 1&4 lines up then you tighten it and loosen just the smaller 2-3 plate to adjust those.
Classic Octane update: no matter how far i rotate the plate the 1-4 will not light up, but the 2-3 line up perfectly and light no matter my clamp is on the 1-4 screw or 2-3 screw.
i have the clamp at 1-4, the light is off when line above the letter F and the line in the hole line up. i keep rotate and the light is on when the line of 2-3 line up with the line in the hole ( i still have the light hook up to the screw on the 1-4 side) it keep stay on until i get to 1/8 inch away from the 1-4 line and the its off.
Double check and make sure you're on the compression stroke for #1. Both rockets should be loose at that point.
Awesome.... BUT..... Remember: Those are NOT Phillips head screws and you should NEVER use Phillips screwdrivers on these Japanese bikes! Those are JIS screws, and JIS screwdrivers should be used (and NO, JIS and Pozi-Drive ARE NOT the same thing)...
My problem us my light stay open when i adjudt 1.4 with big plate 🤦♂️
solid video, thanks!
What if your turn the rench counterclockwise rather than clockwise will that affect it in a negative way
Yes, that will loosen the bolt and the motor isn't designed to rotate that way. I would only turn it clockwise.
Classic Octane so if i turned it counterclockwise to many times and i cant seen to get the timing right and it wont start but i still have good compression and seems like it wants to start but wont, what should i start looking for? I have new battery and pugs and wires and fuses and rebuilt carbs. And im getting gas to the engine and carbs. Basically I messed up and turned it counterclockwise and im scared i really messed up just dont know how to find out if i did or not
Do you know if you're getting any spark? That way you can rule out your coils and condensers
Classic Octane yes i am.
I would track down some instruction on installing the timing components from scratch. This will insure you're timing plate is in the correct orientation with the cam.
Question to all you gear heads, I've got a 1975 xl350 almost the same as this bike. I got spark at the plug, good compression, fuel going to the carb, all is good! Except it won't fire, could my timing be the problem ? Any suggestions guys?
Hey Jeff, You said you have fuel going to the carbs but do you know if they are clean and the fuel is actually making it into the cylinder?
Dumb question, but when you're using your test light, should the key and start switch be on?
Yes, you need the power on for this to work with a test light. Thanks for watching let me know if you need anymore help!
Classic Octane thanks! Is it normal for the points to spark when I advance the rotor (with the key and switch on)?
Yes they sometimes spark. I would use a small file and make sure there is no corrosion on the points. Sometimes they spark because of a small amount of rust formed on the contacts.
Thoughts on electronic ignitions?
I like them. If I have a bike that's in need of new points and condenser I usually just go for the electronic setup. I had a Dyna S setup on one of my CB550s and it works great.
Are they all the same or is there a reason you like Dyna S. I am going to try and keep my CB550 as stock as possible with the exception of two items. 1. Electronic ignition. 2. Front brakes. Any other non-stock items you like that enhance safety and reliability? I'm not looking for performance boost.
The Dyna is the only one I have experience with but I have heard good things about Daytona as well. The only other thing you might look into is LED lighting. They will be brighter and will last a lot longer than a stock bulb.
Cool. Can the home made manometers to sync carb work or should I shell out the money for one?
If you are only planning on doing it to one bike then a homemade one should be fine. The only reason I forked out the money for one if because I use it on every bike I build.
En español no hay nada?
So my light is staying on full circle for 1-4 and 2-3 do I have a short somewhere?
Sounds like you don't have enough gap between your points to break the circuit.
Thanks but actually the gap is open. I found something odd that both points are open upon close inspection, so I going to replace the points and see if that does the trick.
YOU HAVE TO SET THE POINTS FIRST .. YOU SHOULD SAY LINE THE F WITH THE STATIC CASE MARK NOT BETWEEN THE T AND F LINES.. ALSO SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO GROUND THE MOVABLE PLATE WHEN LOOSE IN TESTING OR THE LIGHT WONT GO OUT . CAUSE IT HAS A POOR GROUND,,
My light won’t go off and I gapped it correctly and have a solid ground on my timing light. You might have any tips on why?
@@pdr1787 YOUR POINTS HAVE A THIN FILM OF SOMETHING THAT IS PREVENTING THE CURRENT FROM FLOWING/// TAKE #400 SAND PAPER AND CLEAN BOTH SIDES OF THE CONTACT POINTS . YOUR SPRING TENSION MAY BE WEAK AS WELL
Setting 1-4 no problem , but 2-3 showing out but I can't get light to come on !!
Sorted
@@allanjohnston1056 how did you sort the issue? I can get 1/4 perfect, light comes on at F mark. For 2/3 light comes on late, way pass F and T marks. Cannot adjust the subplate as I ran out of adjustment space.
@@vik1126 I ended up electronic ignition
@@allanjohnston1056 I am now considering it too. Thanks
There should not be any Philips screws on a Japanese Bike. These are JIS Screws ;-) And you better use an JIS screwdriver.
my kick start isn't moving it. what does that mean
The piston is stuck.
So does this process eliminate need to set / check timing with a timing light?
This will get you very close. Unless you're still having issues later on this process should be enough.
Cool. Hey, just discovered my 550 k4 does not have the PD carbs on it. It has earlier carbs. Will that make ordering throttle cables difficult? Order for bike or carbs? Follow?
They should be similar. Do you know if yours are a push/pull setup? meaning one cable pushes and the other pulls.
Not sure yet. Picture are on my SOHC4 project thread. Look for 78 CB550 by Fezzler. I have not had gas tank off yet. But what I can see is KEIHIN Japan KB 2416 A-1 B-2. I have no idea, but using Google Search CB300/350 kept coming up. Previous own said he rebuilt the carbs. I asked if he cleaned and reinstalled OEM parts or used a kit and if a kit which one. I don't think he will respond.
Man, we have to drain the oil before that?
Nope, my bike is full of oil and all the spark plugs are still in. You can still turn it over easily.
Yeah man -_-
After my question I stop and think:
Obvius there don't have oil! Oil is insulating...
Tks for your attention. Cheers!