Really should use marine grade butt connectors (heat shrink type), shrink tubing and tinned wires. It’s also good to tie the wiring up as high as you can.
Did you buy the automatic float separately? I’m making some upgrades to my boat over the winter and was gonna install a bilge with automatic function option then power it through a three way toggle switch in the dash where the existing switch is. But since the bilge pun is really close to the trim pump , I could just use the hot wire to the trim pump as a power source if I had that float switch like you have.
Hi Heesa Noice! I didn’t buy the original bilge pump setup for this boat, but I believe you can buy the automatic float separately. It’s a nice way to turn any regular bilge pump into an automatic one. Just a note to consider, your trim pump probably is fused higher than you’d need for the bilge pump, so a bilge pump failure would take longer to blow the fuse. The fuse setup is there for safety to prevent damage/fire from any equipment that overloads, so it’s good that a bilge pump can blow a small fuse before it overheats. I’m not a pro or expert, so take my advice as such. It’s just something to consider. Good luck!!
Really should use marine grade butt connectors (heat shrink type), shrink tubing and tinned wires. It’s also good to tie the wiring up as high as you can.
Keep up the good content!
i just need to know where my bilge pump is located so I can replace it, ive got a 1995 bayliner capri with a 120 hp force outboard
is it not just in the back we have a 97 bay liner 1800ls and it’s in the open
Did you buy the automatic float separately? I’m making some upgrades to my boat over the winter and was gonna install a bilge with automatic function option then power it through a three way toggle switch in the dash where the existing switch is. But since the bilge pun is really close to the trim pump , I could just use the hot wire to the trim pump as a power source if I had that float switch like you have.
Hi Heesa Noice! I didn’t buy the original bilge pump setup for this boat, but I believe you can buy the automatic float separately. It’s a nice way to turn any regular bilge pump into an automatic one. Just a note to consider, your trim pump probably is fused higher than you’d need for the bilge pump, so a bilge pump failure would take longer to blow the fuse. The fuse setup is there for safety to prevent damage/fire from any equipment that overloads, so it’s good that a bilge pump can blow a small fuse before it overheats. I’m not a pro or expert, so take my advice as such. It’s just something to consider. Good luck!!