A simple but clear to the important point. It’s a good guideline to do your own basic adjustment. My experience stepped on different bindings with the same boot. Different brand has different release force in the same DIN marking. It’s good to have professional to check force release measure for initial set up.
Any time you pair a boot and binding you should have a release check do with a force measuring device. Just because you set a binding to a din number it doesn’t necessarily mean it will actually release at that value. There are variables such as friction from the boot sole or binding that will affect release results. I have encountered certain boot binding combinations where we regularly had to adjust the setting to release at the recommended force.
Agree. "Here," (at 2:10) and again "Here, move it" (at 3:25) would be more clear if "here" were in the frame, lol. 😂 But this still allowed me to figure it out: "Here" is a lever, which looks a lot like the lever on the front binding but in this case BEHIND the boot.
Very helpful info. Thanks. My boots are 315mm. My mount indicators has 314 & 320 mark on the front & rear. Should I choose both 314 or 320? Or one is 314 and another is 320?
This is excellent explanation of the lesser known but very important settings. Make sure to look up how to set this up for your own ski bindings. On Elan ELX11 Fusion bindings, there is a combo of two levers in the middle and then both toe and heel piece move together.
My Salomon C 610 isn't fully adjustable for boot size. The front binding doesn't seem to be adjustable at all. The rear binding can be adjusted but there are no measurements to go by. The boot does line up perfectly with the center line, but DIN may not release correctly as stated.
How do I adjust the forward pressure when my binding doesn't have any indicator for that? I have the Rossignol Axial 120 (NOT the Axial2 120 which _does_ have an indicator). I can't seem to find a manual for it.
I am told boot size is irrelevant whereas the sole length is the most important. However, any adult binding should be able to accept as large a boot that is made will it not?
The sole length corresponds to the size of the boot. Most adjustable bindings will accommodate very large boots (I am size 33), but I am not sure if all bindings will take any size boots.
i don’t think so, my bindings are elan 7.5 AC, and the AC stands for “adult/child” meaning they can be used for either a smaller adult or a larger kid. i’m a little less than 100# and my boots are 281 mm, i believe they consider me junior size. i don’t think my bindings could accommodate my boyfriend who is 150# and 6’ tall because mine are made for people my size. maybe it is true that bindings made just for adults could fit all adults, but i’m an adult in between kid and adult size and i don’t think that’s how my bindings work.
Hello , what happens when the boots split the toe piece ? are the boots too large? Should the toe piece not split when binded?I have fischer rs 9 SLR with Fischer cruzar fun M.
How do I adjust the forward pressure on my Volkl RTM 86 skis with the Marker Wide Ride XL 12din bindings?? The front and rear bindings move together simultaneously! I set them for my BSL 316mm-275 and the forward pressure indicator is NOT MOVING !! All my other bindings the forward pressure indicator is about Half way on the scribe markings? WATS WRONG ????
Marc Winkle The boot sole length is made by pressing the red button and opening the little door in the center of the binding. Use a posidrive #3 screwdriver an turn the second screw closer to,the rear and the toe and heel will move. There are sloe length numbers behind the toe AFD. The heel house will move back over the white lines of the forward pressure indicator when the binding is set to a shorter sole length. By the way you can not change the mounting position on your Volkl like the video suggest. Many systems automatically align the boot to the manufacturer recommend point on the ski. Also you should have your din setting checked with a force measuring divide at a Professional Ski Shop.
Someone has the manual? My Ski boot is 308 mm, I set the bindings both in the right position but the indicator of the forward pression shows i made a mistake....Can you help me?
Seriously, unless you're trying to keep your orthopedic surgeon in business, leave the adjustments to a knowledgeable and certified ski binding technician. Proper forward pressure (and there a lot of different variations depending up on manufacturer and model) and your DIN setting are only where you start. Only a proper forward lean and twist test can determine whether or not the binding is setting to correctly release for you and your system (bindings/ski/boots).
Clint Smitheman I don’t know about that Clint. Some of the flunkies I see tuning skis and bindings....I’d rather trust myself. I work as a mountain host at a large resort and when the shop is busy some pretty sketchy binding set ups come out for me to troubleshoot when the guests go to lock in and I have to send them right back to the shop. If you’re confident setting your own bindings using recommended charts and guidelines then do it. The rest is just fine tuning the centering of the boot in relation to what conditions you’re using the ski on. And again novice or occasional skiers should leave the bindings settings to the shops. Not saying that you’re not correct. Just saying I trust my years of tinkering with my own skis and knowledge I learned from other experienced ski buddies to some burnout at a ski shop.
@@gregbisesi9966 - I have no doubt there are flunkies that are "certified" techs. I've seen some weird stuff at our shop that had us saying - wtf! Busy is no excuse for sloppy work. Having had several close calls with my knees over the years and getting close to the "senior DIN discount", I'm setting my bindings via the torque wrench . . . straddling the line between type II and type III. New boot and new bindings should always be torque checked . . . . I'd say about 5% of new bindings we test need to be tweaked. After that, probably only need to check every couple of years.
Clint Smitheman Yep good points. Especially checking with torque wrench. Even one instance of shoddy or rushed work is too much and I’ve seen a bit more than I like not just at our shop. Hope you’re having a great ski season where ever you are. We’re just a little short of epic here in Utah this season and it’s barely half over.
My fifth ski binding setup video and the clearest to me. Thank you.
This video was so helpful. I got a little overwhelmed when i saw all the numbers on my skis, thanks a lot!
Thank you for this, and especially showing both an error and the correction and how they're indicated on the pressure "sensor" itself.
A simple but clear to the important point. It’s a good guideline to do your own basic adjustment. My experience stepped on different bindings with the same boot. Different brand has different release force in the same DIN marking. It’s good to have professional to check force release measure for initial set up.
Great video, super easy to understand, and very clear.
Thank you sir! Without this video I would never had found the indicator for the forward pressure. Fischer hid it well!
Any time you pair a boot and binding you should have a release check do with a force measuring device. Just because you set a binding to a din number it doesn’t necessarily mean it will actually release at that value. There are variables such as friction from the boot sole or binding that will affect release results. I have encountered certain boot binding combinations where we regularly had to adjust the setting to release at the recommended force.
This is what I was understanding from the manual too, but needed a confirmation. Thanks
Please show how you are adjusting the rear binding. Thanks.
Agree. "Here," (at 2:10) and again "Here, move it" (at 3:25) would be more clear if "here" were in the frame, lol. 😂
But this still allowed me to figure it out: "Here" is a lever, which looks a lot like the lever on the front binding but in this case BEHIND the boot.
Very helpful info. Thanks. My boots are 315mm. My mount indicators has 314 & 320 mark on the front & rear. Should I choose both 314 or 320? Or one is 314 and another is 320?
I have same issue, anyone knows the answer ?
What happens if you set front and rear at the right range but when you go to put your boot In it seems too tight / boot won't go in.
What if my sole lenght is 320 per example, but instead I place both heel and toe binding at 340. Will it make a difference.
This is excellent explanation of the lesser known but very important settings.
Make sure to look up how to set this up for your own ski bindings. On Elan ELX11 Fusion bindings, there is a combo of two levers in the middle and then both toe and heel piece move together.
How do i do if i purchase a ski that doesn't comes with rail interface ? are the rails included with the bindings ?
My Salomon C 610 isn't fully adjustable for boot size. The front binding doesn't seem to be adjustable at all. The rear binding can be adjusted but there are no measurements to go by. The boot does line up perfectly with the center line, but DIN may not release correctly as stated.
I cannot see how to adjust the rear binding
I dont understand how you control/adjust forwards or backwars on? If you put at 317 then you are dead center on the skies correct?
This is a great video. Thanks for posting!
Well done,nice and simple to understand.thank you
Would you tell me what is the "energy absorption" test of ski bindings ? Thanks！
Thank you! Clear and concise.
How do I adjust the forward pressure when my binding doesn't have any indicator for that? I have the Rossignol Axial 120 (NOT the Axial2 120 which _does_ have an indicator). I can't seem to find a manual for it.
Wow i made a huge mistake and would have severely injured myself on my skis if not for this video
Perfect, thx you exactly what I search
I am told boot size is irrelevant whereas the sole length is the most important. However, any adult binding should be able to accept as large a boot that is made will it not?
The sole length corresponds to the size of the boot. Most adjustable bindings will accommodate very large boots (I am size 33), but I am not sure if all bindings will take any size boots.
i don’t think so, my bindings are elan 7.5 AC, and the AC stands for “adult/child” meaning they can be used for either a smaller adult or a larger kid. i’m a little less than 100# and my boots are 281 mm, i believe they consider me junior size. i don’t think my bindings could accommodate my boyfriend who is 150# and 6’ tall because mine are made for people my size. maybe it is true that bindings made just for adults could fit all adults, but i’m an adult in between kid and adult size and i don’t think that’s how my bindings work.
Thank you very much for help ;-) It´s similar setting as Elan Amphibio 12 + binding ELS 11
Thanks ya this helped me to adjust my bindigs
Hello , what happens when the boots split the toe piece ? are the boots too large? Should the toe piece not split when binded?I have fischer rs 9 SLR with Fischer cruzar fun M.
How do I adjust the forward pressure on my Volkl RTM 86 skis with the Marker Wide Ride XL 12din bindings?? The front and rear bindings move together simultaneously! I set them for my BSL 316mm-275 and the forward pressure indicator is NOT MOVING !! All my other bindings the forward pressure indicator is about Half way on the scribe markings? WATS WRONG ????
These are the 2017/2018 models....
Marc Winkle The boot sole length is made by pressing the red button and opening the little door in the center of the binding. Use a posidrive #3 screwdriver an turn the second screw closer to,the rear and the toe and heel will move. There are sloe length numbers behind the toe AFD. The heel house will move back over the white lines of the forward pressure indicator when the binding is set to a shorter sole length. By the way you can not change the mounting position on your Volkl like the video suggest. Many systems automatically align the boot to the manufacturer recommend point on the ski. Also you should have your din setting checked with a force measuring divide at a Professional Ski Shop.
d3swkta9jjxguv.cloudfront.net/user_upload/marker/Downloads/THB_Marker_17-18_englisch.pdf
Go to page 80. Instructions in there.
Someone has the manual? My Ski boot is 308 mm, I set the bindings both in the right position but the indicator of the forward pression shows i made a mistake....Can you help me?
Stesso problema. Come hai risolto?
@@valeriogiordano1575 ciao anche io stesso problema, con la misura del mio scarpone risulta troppo "morbido" hai risolto?
Vorrei sapere se. I miei attacchi sono. Migliori. Di. Quelli. Che. State. Facendo. Vedere nel. Video e soprattutto. Il. Costo. Io ho dei tirolia
Helpful video. Thank You
I don’t understand how to adjust the centering
Thank you, you saved me
Really helpful. Thx
Grande!!! Grazie mille
Thanks
Seriously, unless you're trying to keep your orthopedic surgeon in business, leave the adjustments to a knowledgeable and certified ski binding technician. Proper forward pressure (and there a lot of different variations depending up on manufacturer and model) and your DIN setting are only where you start. Only a proper forward lean and twist test can determine whether or not the binding is setting to correctly release for you and your system (bindings/ski/boots).
Clint Smitheman
I don’t know about that Clint. Some of the flunkies I see tuning skis and bindings....I’d rather trust myself. I work as a mountain host at a large resort and when the shop is busy some pretty sketchy binding set ups come out for me to troubleshoot when the guests go to lock in and I have to send them right back to the shop.
If you’re confident setting your own bindings using recommended charts and guidelines then do it. The rest is just fine tuning the centering of the boot in relation to what conditions you’re using the ski on. And again novice or occasional skiers should leave the bindings settings to the shops. Not saying that you’re not correct. Just saying I trust my years of tinkering with my own skis and knowledge I learned from other experienced ski buddies to some burnout at a ski shop.
@@gregbisesi9966 - I have no doubt there are flunkies that are "certified" techs. I've seen some weird stuff at our shop that had us saying - wtf! Busy is no excuse for sloppy work. Having had several close calls with my knees over the years and getting close to the "senior DIN discount", I'm setting my bindings via the torque wrench . . . straddling the line between type II and type III. New boot and new bindings should always be torque checked . . . . I'd say about 5% of new bindings we test need to be tweaked. After that, probably only need to check every couple of years.
Clint Smitheman
Yep good points. Especially checking with torque wrench.
Even one instance of shoddy or rushed work is too much and I’ve seen a bit more than I like not just at our shop.
Hope you’re having a great ski season where ever you are. We’re just a little short of epic here in Utah this season and it’s barely half over.
Support your local shop!
Wish I could understand you voice Quality is poor,