Most skiers I watch (including myself a few years ago) have the opposite problem: too little pressure on the inside ski. Eventually, try the same exercise on one ski but this time on the _inside_ ski. This will radically improve your carving and overall stability in high speed, high load turns.
i'd like to add that when a client says they have a strong side and a weak side, it usually can be immediately fixed by measuring the natural stance of the skier and shimming the boot or preferably the binding. when i first started teaching at ski school 20 years ago, it amazed me how much of a difference a shim on my right ski was. nobody has a flat stance, and a flat stance is what you need for the perfect turn. i've "fixed" countless clients by carrying temporary shims and applying them under the boot during the lesson.
It's different pelvic rotation, usually from driving/gas pedalling. I guess a shim can cheat it. I prefer to ski and be punished until my skeleton re-aligns.
If my weak side is my left leg which leads to poor rightward turns (left leg bears most of the pressure), then which side should the shim go in, left or right?
I have got the feeling with carving that the whole position is on the back, "sitting" on skies in comparison to position with sliding, oldschool riding where we are more to the front; such overall observation, looking at different lessons and strugling with carving ;-) I have not found anyone talking about it; if there is difference in weight distribution front-back
Really good video, really like your instructions. when you do the stork turn, do you use your feet to steer the outside ski or is it more just pressure and let the ski do the work?
Thank you Scott! Great question! In the stork turn, it’s a mix of both. The key is to apply pressure on the outside ski while allowing it to engage with the snow, creating the natural turn shape. There’s a subtle steering action from your foot to guide the ski, but the real work is in balancing the pressure and letting the ski carve smoothly. Think of it as guiding rather than forcing the ski to turn. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have more questions!
Hi Wen, yes, I’ve actually seen the insole-less prototypes in Zermatt this summer and had the chance to ski with one of the core CARV testers. Unfortunately, I can’t share too many details just yet, but the official launch is scheduled for the 14th of October-I’ll definitely bring all the updates to the channel then! As for the ski pressure metric potentially changing, regardless of the changes, the outside ski pressure drill will always remain one of the best drills to master. I remember a fellow L4 ski instructor once told me, ‘If only everyone practiced and mastered this drill, we’d have far fewer problems when coaching professional ski instructors.’ For subscribers only, here’s a $40 coupon you can use for CARV: shop.sensiel.ch/products/carv-ai-ski-instructor. Thanks for your comment, and stay tuned!
Luckily, Outside Ski Pressure was only ever an indicator. In fact, CARV never specified a target for that "metric" because you could score extremely highly (in terms of overall Ski:IQ) but with highly varying levels of Outside Ski Pressure. It's also pretty easy to feel for the balance switch underfoot, especially with these types of drills. I look forward to the discussion over the ramifications of CARV 2 app and hardware when the embargo lifts.
Good point, Kuan! Outside Ski Pressure has always been more of an indicator. With CARV 2 moving to insole-less sensors, it’s going to be interesting to see how it improves tracking. Are you a CARV user yourself? Looking forward to discussing all the new features once it’s officially out!
@@stefanslock Thanks for your comment, Stefan. The move to insole-less sensors was aimed at solving issues for custom-fitted boots and improving reliability, as the insoles were sometimes not as accurate. I’ve been testing CARV 2 behind the scenes but still use CARV 1 insoles on some setups. Hoping to share a proper comparison of both versions on the channel soon. Support for CARV 1 users should still be in place due to pre-paid memberships, though rollout details might need clarity 🥲.
Thanks for the comment! The Fischer RC4s aren’t the most forgiving, but with good posture, balance, and precise edging, they offer an exhilarating and joyful ride. They can be tiring over a long day since they constantly want to turn fast on their edges. Elite ski instructors always prioritize precision and technique over equipment-this is a core mantra in high-level instruction. When the execution is perfect, equipment plays a smaller role. However, racing skis like the RC4 do require both precision and strength to perform at their best. Maybe in a future video, we’ll compare the impact of ski selection on classic ski drills, as many reviews can feel biased or subjective, without highlighting what skis can or can’t do. It’s also a matter of preferences-try skiing in powder with race skis, or being the fastest through gates with all-mountain skis, and you’ll see the difference. After all that, I must admit I love the RC4s, but not when I’m demonstrating basic snow ploughs or skiing on flat terrain!
I don't think it's that way. I'm an intermediate skier and have the same ones. You just have to edge a little so that they bend well. The boy keeps his skis very flat.
@@luisbarilo Thanks for your input, Luis! You’re right-edging is key with the RC4s, and they’re a joy to ski when handled well. Skiing is all about refining technique, and skis like these really push that to the next level. Looking forward to sharing more insights soon on how to get the most out of them!
Thanks for your comment, Jennifer! You’re right-the RC4 is a powerful ski and can feel like a lot for intermediate skiers. But when you dial in posture, balance, and precision, they really come alive. I personally love them for their energy and responsiveness, though they’re not my go-to for demonstrating basics or skiing on flat terrain!
Great question, Maria! The Stork Turn drill is beneficial at all levels. It’s fantastic for building control by focusing on balance, edge control, and body positioning. For intermediates, it’s a great way to enhance control, while advanced skiers can use it to boost precision. Have you tried it?
Appreciate your input! Every element of this drill is part of a progression that’s been carefully crafted and tested by top instructors to refine key fundamentals. What you see here is just one piece of the puzzle. Always open to constructive conversations that help push skiing technique forward!
The step turn is to correct the abstem. Weight transfer has many different mechanics, muscular... ballistic... momentum is the best. You start slow and steady continuous round turn shapes focusing on weight transfer with consistent slow speed. keep momentum out of it for a while... then start to put a bit more juice into the flow feeling new sensations of compaction satisfaction under foot.
Most skiers I watch (including myself a few years ago) have the opposite problem: too little pressure on the inside ski. Eventually, try the same exercise on one ski but this time on the _inside_ ski. This will radically improve your carving and overall stability in high speed, high load turns.
I used to be conceited about how great I ski, but I got over it & now I'm perfect.
Hi thank you for your coaching I am looking forward to winter cheers Andrew
i'd like to add that when a client says they have a strong side and a weak side, it usually can be immediately fixed by measuring the natural stance of the skier and shimming the boot or preferably the binding. when i first started teaching at ski school 20 years ago, it amazed me how much of a difference a shim on my right ski was. nobody has a flat stance, and a flat stance is what you need for the perfect turn. i've "fixed" countless clients by carrying temporary shims and applying them under the boot during the lesson.
So true
It's different pelvic rotation, usually from driving/gas pedalling. I guess a shim can cheat it. I prefer to ski and be punished until my skeleton re-aligns.
Do you have som pics of shims or where to buy them?
If my weak side is my left leg which leads to poor rightward turns (left leg bears most of the pressure), then which side should the shim go in, left or right?
WHAT A BEAUTIFUL PLACE ❤❤
Excellent. That looks a good piste in summer. Great teaching.
Worthless teaching. Sorry. Just bad instruction.
I have got the feeling with carving that the whole position is on the back, "sitting" on skies in comparison to position with sliding, oldschool riding where we are more to the front; such overall observation, looking at different lessons and strugling with carving ;-) I have not found anyone talking about it; if there is difference in weight distribution front-back
Really good video, really like your instructions. when you do the stork turn, do you use your feet to steer the outside ski or is it more just pressure and let the ski do the work?
Thank you Scott! Great question! In the stork turn, it’s a mix of both. The key is to apply pressure on the outside ski while allowing it to engage with the snow, creating the natural turn shape. There’s a subtle steering action from your foot to guide the ski, but the real work is in balancing the pressure and letting the ski carve smoothly. Think of it as guiding rather than forcing the ski to turn. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have more questions!
Fantastic colour 😍
Thanks
Where are you skiing this summer?
Zermatt, Switzerland and is definitely worth it … stunning conditions and skiing with world top class ski racers literally all around …
Nice 👍❤
The new CARV is getting rid of the pressure insole.
Hi Wen, yes, I’ve actually seen the insole-less prototypes in Zermatt this summer and had the chance to ski with one of the core CARV testers. Unfortunately, I can’t share too many details just yet, but the official launch is scheduled for the 14th of October-I’ll definitely bring all the updates to the channel then!
As for the ski pressure metric potentially changing, regardless of the changes, the outside ski pressure drill will always remain one of the best drills to master. I remember a fellow L4 ski instructor once told me, ‘If only everyone practiced and mastered this drill, we’d have far fewer problems when coaching professional ski instructors.’
For subscribers only, here’s a $40 coupon you can use for CARV: shop.sensiel.ch/products/carv-ai-ski-instructor. Thanks for your comment, and stay tuned!
Luckily, Outside Ski Pressure was only ever an indicator.
In fact, CARV never specified a target for that "metric" because you could score extremely highly (in terms of overall Ski:IQ) but with highly varying levels of Outside Ski Pressure.
It's also pretty easy to feel for the balance switch underfoot, especially with these types of drills.
I look forward to the discussion over the ramifications of CARV 2 app and hardware when the embargo lifts.
Good point, Kuan! Outside Ski Pressure has always been more of an indicator. With CARV 2 moving to insole-less sensors, it’s going to be interesting to see how it improves tracking. Are you a CARV user yourself? Looking forward to discussing all the new features once it’s officially out!
It's really is a pity
@@stefanslock Thanks for your comment, Stefan. The move to insole-less sensors was aimed at solving issues for custom-fitted boots and improving reliability, as the insoles were sometimes not as accurate. I’ve been testing CARV 2 behind the scenes but still use CARV 1 insoles on some setups. Hoping to share a proper comparison of both versions on the channel soon. Support for CARV 1 users should still be in place due to pre-paid memberships, though rollout details might need clarity 🥲.
Ciao Plateau rosa , quanti giorni fa ?
Ciao, era circa dodici giorni fa … tempo splendido … e piste non affollate
Fischer RC4 skis seems too strong for this skier. Try more forgiving skis that he can bend.
Thanks for the comment! The Fischer RC4s aren’t the most forgiving, but with good posture, balance, and precise edging, they offer an exhilarating and joyful ride. They can be tiring over a long day since they constantly want to turn fast on their edges. Elite ski instructors always prioritize precision and technique over equipment-this is a core mantra in high-level instruction. When the execution is perfect, equipment plays a smaller role. However, racing skis like the RC4 do require both precision and strength to perform at their best. Maybe in a future video, we’ll compare the impact of ski selection on classic ski drills, as many reviews can feel biased or subjective, without highlighting what skis can or can’t do. It’s also a matter of preferences-try skiing in powder with race skis, or being the fastest through gates with all-mountain skis, and you’ll see the difference. After all that, I must admit I love the RC4s, but not when I’m demonstrating basic snow ploughs or skiing on flat terrain!
I don't think it's that way. I'm an intermediate skier and have the same ones. You just have to edge a little so that they bend well. The boy keeps his skis very flat.
@@luisbarilo Thanks for your input, Luis! You’re right-edging is key with the RC4s, and they’re a joy to ski when handled well. Skiing is all about refining technique, and skis like these really push that to the next level.
Looking forward to sharing more insights soon on how to get the most out of them!
Old fashion terminology….tipping might be better….start the turn with the foot🙏🙏
RC4 is a consumer “race” ski, too much ski for an intermediate skier…
Thanks for your comment, Jennifer! You’re right-the RC4 is a powerful ski and can feel like a lot for intermediate skiers. But when you dial in posture, balance, and precision, they really come alive. I personally love them for their energy and responsiveness, though they’re not my go-to for demonstrating basics or skiing on flat terrain!
Is that intermediate?
Great question, Maria! The Stork Turn drill is beneficial at all levels. It’s fantastic for building control by focusing on balance, edge control, and body positioning. For intermediates, it’s a great way to enhance control, while advanced skiers can use it to boost precision. Have you tried it?
That pulsing MG logo on bottom right of the video is a real distraction
Never teach it moving this slowly.
Pointless. He's not learning anything.
Appreciate your input! Every element of this drill is part of a progression that’s been carefully crafted and tested by top instructors to refine key fundamentals. What you see here is just one piece of the puzzle. Always open to constructive conversations that help push skiing technique forward!
@@marcogiardinastoriesagree!
This is a step turn which you are trying to get rid of.
The step turn is to correct the abstem. Weight transfer has many different mechanics, muscular... ballistic... momentum is the best. You start slow and steady continuous round turn shapes focusing on weight transfer with consistent slow speed. keep momentum out of it for a while... then start to put a bit more juice into the flow feeling new sensations of compaction satisfaction under foot.
yup. it can be fixed by simply shimming the binding or boot. the step or "flinch" is caused by having a slightly uneven stance.