The last time I 'glazed' I was in my 20's. I now have 14 windows with 15 paine's each. Not 20, but 63y/o and have been dreading the task! Your skill is amazing, most helpful tips, and good humor! I am ready now! Thanks tons.
First time glazer here; a piece of glass fell out and I saw how many windows need re-glazing. It's an art but I am finding my stride. I just don't like that it takes 2 weeks to dry.
This man is not kidding. As a complete novice, making storm windows for the first time, that was hard enough. The Dap was all I thought I had access to so that’s what I used. Application was miserable. Skin-over time was far longer than what the label said. Once I realized I could buy a quart of the Type M, I bought it and the whiting. I removed the Dap and replaced it with the Sarco. The feel, application, and skin-over time, EVERYTHING!, was so far superior to the Dap that I regret not having done more research back in the spring. Yes, the Dap had been in place for nearly two months and I still couldn’t paint it. And that’s with me moving the windows around to try and speed the process along. What a waste of time and money! Thanks Steve, for sharing this information. Lesson learned on this end.
Glad it was useful to you. I am totally convinced they design that DAP product to suck on purpose to keep people from wanting to do it. People who are discouraged from doing their own work are simultaneously corralled into consuming products designed keep the manufacturing businesses in business
One of the best explanations, and instructions. Note: The manufacturer lists Easy Sand 20 joint compound (magic dust) as a carcinogenic with a "danger" warning to wear protective gloves, protective clothing, eye protection, and face protection. The material is to be locked up when not in use. Calcium Carbonate (Chalk) does not carry the same warning and is readily available.
@@dang5203 before steves' alchemy mix this element was called glaziers pumice,, my old boss used it regularly to polish grit dirt and streaks off a hundred year old window glass,use warm water clean cotton rags that do not shed, dip the rag,rub over the whole glass surface,,,wipe off when dry, another dusting with a sprinkle to get the glass spiffy clean,,,,,, cerium oxide is used in the bigger vinyl glass and aluminum window makers,after the wet wipe with the stuff you can smell clean glass, pixie dust it is
I do a lot of tile showers. My favorite gloves are the orange textured Diamond brand gloves from Autozone. Like 15 bucks for 100 gloves (50 pairs) but they're very very durable and worth the money imo.
Great video. Just finding an alternative to Dap 33 is worth it. Have a 1916 house and have reglazed most windows. Last window I did was a 9 pane casement type. It swings in on 2 hinges and when you close it the metal edge must fit in metal slots/groove in the frame. However the last one now will not close all the way. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks. Robert
Steve - Have you done a video on bedding? I've been binging your videos most of the afternoon and haven't found one. Hope you can help. Really like everything I've seen. Super helpful for this homeowner!
sarco are the only outfit out there anywhere that makes oil based putty,,it is an excellent rain, cold hot dry insulator,, a soundproofing measure too sarcos' predecessor was an illinois company Nu Putty of des Plaines,,,I used the last qt weight of it a year ago,moistening it periodically with furniture lemon oil keeps it with a good consistency
Working on wood sashes in Arizona is different than in New York. In NY, every wood double-hung allows access to the sash weights through a screw-in panel in the side of the jamb. In AZ, there is no access except for removing the face trim. I never do that; instead I just shove in the stainless sash controls.
I used your instructions (top shelf, by the way) and Sarco Type M to reglaze a few stationary wood windows that can't be removed....they are stationery and can't be removed. I'm now realizing that perhaps I should have used Dual Glaze since I didn't do them inside. We have had unseasonable warm weather and zero rain, so I'm hoping it won't be an issue. I did them a couple of weeks ago and I'm planning to paint within the next few days. I purchased a gallon of the Type M, but will suck it up and get the Dual Glaze for the rest of the windows if it will be an issue. Thank you!
I am reglazing two windows on my shed. Should I be using Sarco Dual Glaze putty, because I will be doing the work outside? Sarco recommends this. I am going to be doing this in July in good weather. Thanks for your advice. Love your video.
I use Sarco Type M almost exclusively. Can't say I've ever even opened a can of Dual Glaze. Are you doing the glazing outside because you don't know how to take the sash out of the opening?
Your videos are great information and I appreciate your willingness to share, but I agree with some other comments that the music is terrible & suddenly Loud! I have to keep a throttle the volume knob to hurry up & turn it down ..lol :) No music would be better :)
@@WoodWindowMakeover Significant trim removal for fragile woodwork on dwelling that is historic. Window reglazing without removal reduces highly complicated repairs that would otherwise not be needed. In otherwords, trying to not open a can of worms.
In my view, the repairs you are trying to avoid might be easier than trying to glaze a window in place. But if you must, there’s no easy way. Just got to get the ladders out, chip out the old stuff…. Yeah I don’t like that way.
I have a couple of windows that will need to be glazed without being removed first. If I prep and glazed, do I cover the window with plastic in case it rains?
I wouldn't recommend glazing in place, but if you do, make sure you wait long enough for the glazing to dry out, and then you might want to put some mildecide on it before you paint. Wouldn't want it to turn black on you. Ask me how I know....
@@WoodWindowMakeover never had any problems with the curing or application process if you're outside? It gets buried in snow for 4-6 months every year... I gotta get this one done right
Well, I am indeed in Florida for most of my experience. One time we had a severe problem with mold - during the rainy season of course, and that’s when I learned to add zinc to the batches (now everyone does it). Haven’t had a problem since. I reglazed all those in place, by the way, with Type M. But if you have any doubt at all, go with the other stuff and follow the directions. There’s nothing wrong with that.
@@WoodWindowMakeover thank you I'll give it a shot. Just wanted to know if there was a different Sarco compound for "non shop" use. Experience beats instructions every time.
Awesome video Steve! I am starting a long rehab project of 200 year old windows…yours is the best glazing video that I have seen yet - thanks! I already ordered the Multi-glaze - happy to get rid of the Dap glazing. What is the ‘magic dust’? Something you made or bought?
Glad the video was helpful to you! The magic dust is drywall compound that you get at the home store in the Sheetrock section. It’s basically a blend of calcium carbonate and plaster of Paris
Do you suggest reglazing storm windows? Is the process the same? A few of my storms leak terribly into the sill and I think it’s because the storms glaze is old. Thanks for the video.
If the storm windows are putty glazed in the traditional way and the glazing is failing, then replacing is in order, followed by a coat of paint that laps up onto the glass to direct water away from the inside.
Right. The instructions do say that. That’s to make sure they cover their own backside. But it’s my experience, and the other professionals in the field will back me up on this, a person can usually paint the glazing on the third day. Some wait an extra day or two, but 15 years later, this is the way I’ve done it and it’s the best thing ever.
I have a window 60" x 60" in 4 panes. Do I do the magic dust after each pane or can I wait until I have all four done? Might be a couple hours, with my speed. Also, I have heard of using Calcium Carbonate, and Whiting. Are they all the same?
With a window that size you might have to do it after every one, but I’d try to do it after the series of four panes first. There have been times when glazing a large sash with many multiples of panes that the glazing would start to set up on the glass on the first panes I finished before I got to the end, so I ended up applying the magic dust after every three to six panes or so. So that’s the trick, to use the magic dust to lick up the oils before the oils coagulate and harden up. One could always clean the glass afterwards with a razor blade if the putty does harden on the glass, but the goal is to save work, not to use magic dust for the sake of saying you used it. Magic dust is most often calcium carbonate, which is also called whiting. What I use is drywall compound, which is calcium carbonate and plaster of Paris combined. Works great
Love this video, especially the scenes that cut in and show the details of what you are doing. Also, you show a close up of how far the glazing should come out. In that close up the glazing has an imperfect. It isn't smooth. Would you/Did you go back over and smooth that out or would you leave it because it wouldn't be worth making it worse?
Not sure about the blemish your talking about, but am glad to know I'm putting legit reality out there 😁. I honestly don't know if I went back and fixed it. In a perfect world I'd like to think I did. But I'm still seeking to cut that perfect line yet myself. Some days are better than others, no?
@@WoodWindowMakeover right at 4:23...It looks about 1.5-2" to the left of the corner. I'm just asking because I would like to know what is acceptable for a good seal. I strive for perfection all the time which adds hours and hours to a job when I do it for the first time.
@@WoodWindowMakeover it's alright. Its right after you slice the left. You slice the right. You clean the left and a smudge is still there. I've been able to smooth those out though without screwing up the rest of the putty so its not as much of a worry for me. I appreciate the replies though!
Hi, Steve. I missed your workshop in Houston this year and obviously 2020 had other plans. Is it possible to reglaze a window without removing it? It's hurricane season and with 15 windows in this house, I doubt I'll get them done in time if I were to take them out one by one.
Hey there hopefully when all this Covid stuff clears we can do another workshop. Reglazing a window without taking the sash from the frame is definitely doable. I've done it. But don't imagine in your mind that it will be faster. When you take into consideration all the ladder work, up and down, the contorted positions the body must achieve, the mess you have to clean up, the sun, the rain, and a host of other possible unknowns, taking the sash from the frame becomes very inviting if you want to reglaze. The artisans who came before us thought long and hard about the windows we love. They ultimately ended up with a window design that let the workers take the sash out from the inside so it could be worked on a table, in the shade, with a fan, on a chair. That said, the first order of business is rarely the glazing. Most often it's the functionality, what I call the Mechanical Makeover. If the window hasn't been brought back to minimum standards of performance, going up and down, opening, closing, locking and so forth, it's not time for glazing anyway. The process of regaining performance will expose all kinds of other elements that need to be addressed, if there's anything that should be addressed. I'm talking sill issues that let water in the frame, casing issues, rot, termites and so forth. Oftentimes problems like these need to be tackled before the glazing. So in many ways, to do what I used to call and "Exterior Makeover" and reglaze off the ladder is to walk into the work blindly, setting one's self up for tripping hazards in the dark that would have been wound walking the trail as it was intended. So my advice would be to get a window working, then take the sash out and do the work as the Artisans before us designed the work to be done - a method of work that emerged over thousands of years of trial and error. You won't be sorry.
wondering if you still have workshops. I live in NW Tennessee and have 23 4/4 sash windows that are caulked and painted shut, my home is from 1900. I need to open the windows! If you have workshops I would gladly drive distance to attend.
Hello again! Still working on my window. Knife skills are coming along. I’m a little more than half way through my bucket of putty, and I think it is not as workable as it once was. Can I add something to it? Linseed oil? Thanks.
Wood Window Makeover Great to know. Thanks. BTW I should have said *windows*! Not still on the first one! 7 sashes (?) with 9 panes each so far. Not quite half way around the house.
Should I be using linseed oil based primer on bare wood at the glass edge prior to using the sarco glazing? My windows are gray from age and I won't be doing any of this work on a table (i.e. mostly me on a ladder) Can I use this glazing in November between 32-50 degrees or is that too cold? Thanks for your help. I am running out of time, soon the snow will be here in New England.
Hi Steve, thanks for your videos. They have been a big help during my renovation. One question... when removing old glazing, how important is it to clear out the mini recesses or rabbets along the edge of where the glass sits? It seems the last person who worked on these windows might have used bondo or something like that for glazing and it is extremely tedious to dig it out. Probably takes me as long to clear those as to strip the rest of the window frame. Thanks!
Have you tried a heat gun to get it out? We have to do that sometimes when it’s just too stubborn. But we start with sharp tools. My favorite is the hive tool, which is basically a miniature flat bar, sharpened to a point on the end and the sides. I use that as a dedicated chisel because, being made from mild steel compared to a chisel, I can sharpen it with a common file as needed. The hardest part, as well as the most important part, is that whatever method, tool, device one employs to get the glazing out, the actual wood of the glazing bar stays intact. That means to say that getting the glazing out at the expense of ruining the sash misses the point. We get the glazing out so that we can effectively put the sash back into service and get the longest possible useful life span out of it at the same time. It would further miss the point to get the glazing out “because Steve said it had to be done” and then spend four days doing it only so that the end result could be photographed for proof that you followed “protocol “. So try the heat gun, that will probably give you the results you can use while maintaining the integrity of the sash you are working on.
Wood Window Makeover I appreciate the response. I have used heat and it does come out with some determination. It is just taking so long I wonder if it’s really worth the extra time it takes. If that tiny little bit in the groove doesn’t come out, does it compromise the hold ghat the new glazing will have on the sash? I do have a hive tool, but for that little bit I’m having to use a metal pick, like a dental pick.
If you are having to use a dental pick, I’d say you are going to far. What you could do instead is use an even blend of boiled linseed oil, turpentine and penetrol to reconstitute the putty and the wood at the same time. The putty is no doubt super dry, and so is the wood. Oiling it up not only gives the putty and wood a much needed “drink”, it also waterproofs and creates a base for a nice layer of oil based primer, which further waterproofs the wood and creates the base upon which you can confidently reglaze. Having given the glazing rabbets a proper oil bath, the formerly dry wood won’t leech the oils from the putty like it would if it was left bare. That little bit you are trying to get out with the dental pick doesn’t sound like it’s worth your time. If you can set your glass flat in the rabbet with a proper bedding of glazing compound, you’ve accomplished all you need to accomplish with removing the old glazing.
@@marcwoodward850 a half inch wide , clean edged semi sharp chisel ought to get a flat surface,, careful not to gouge the wood,then sand the rabbet smooth,linseed oil ,like the man ,said will soak into old dried out putty making it more pliant for easy removal,
Thanks WWM! How long after you glaze do you use the magic dust? I see you using your paint brush and I would be fearful I would smudge the glaze I just put in. Do you wait a day and then use it as I know you don't want the oil hard on there but also don't' want to hit your glaze. Also, do you ever mix the Sarco up when you first get it to make sure the oil isn't all on the bottom? Lastly, do you recommend only adding the water to keep it if you think you won't use it for awhile or is it ok to leave it for a day or two without? Thank you so much!!!!
Great questions. Firstly, you want to do the magic dust right away before doing anything else. What you are trying to do is get the oils off of the glass before it dries. If the oils dry on the glass, cleaning that dried stuff takes waaay longer and is waaaay more problematic. So do it right away. The fear you have about smudging the glazing with the brush is real. But the fear is not worth your time. You are going to smudge it. You just have to fix what you smudge. To this day, as many panes of glass that I’ve puttied in, I still have to go back and adjust what I did with the brush and magic dust. Finally, the water on top of the glazing in the bucket keeps it fresh for weeks, a month or two. It keeps it from skimming over. But if you need to store it for longer, put a little water on the top and stick it in the freezer. I’ve never had to do that myself because the glazing putty doesn’t stick around long enough. But that’s what I’ve heard the credible old timers say. Hope that helps!
@@WoodWindowMakeover Can't thank you enough for taking the time to answer. I may end up cursing but I'm going for it myself. My windows are in rough shape so it is practically like raising someone from the dead. lol
Nice , do you reuse the excess on the next sash as you move along ,Or throw it away? BTW, smooth ambidextrous style 😎 nice work 👍. Do you glaze before or after your coffee ? No shakiness.
We use as much excess as we can. Excess from the last glazing often goes to bed the next batch, then anything left over from that we still try to recycle. Waste not want not, as grandma used to say.
Do have any tricks for getting a nice straight glazing cut line when the edge of the rabbet has small nicks or dents in it? I get slight waves in the putty when my putty knife hits a dent in the wood edge.
It all has to do with the set up and your prep work. The better the prep, the easier the finish. What you are experiencing is indeed a pane 😀🤣. The solution really is to an additional step before you glaze and straighten out that edge. Sometimes you can recreate that edge with epoxy, other times you might need to do a small dutchman repair. Of course you can always just wing it and try to smooth it over the best you can. But your best work hands down happens by working on your prep, before you start glazing. Get good at that and glazing is a breeze.
Actually, using Sarco Type M, the wait time is about 3 days. The product label will tell you to wait longer, but that's for legal purposes and covering their backside. All the pros use this because of the set up time. There's no product out there that I know of that's faster, or will make it faster without compromising quality. That said, a fan will do wonders to help the glazing set up faster.
Hey Steve, I have asked you about this subject before, but want your opinion more specifically. I have a 3/16" rabbet. Would you glaze 1/8", and leave 1/16 for painting or 1/32" strong. Also, on dbl hungs with daddo or groove, how do you handle that? Where do you get your Sarco or where is a good place for me? Thanks, Dwight
I don't think about it too much actually. I just know that my glazing has to simultaneously cover all the edges of the glass and glazing points, yet not be seen on the inside. It might be a 1/16", but 1/32" seems a little too tight. That may seem tight to me because I know that my painting skills aren't yet what they could be and cutting a consistent line at such a tolerance might drive me out of my mind.
@@WoodWindowMakeover good morning Steve, I am having great success using your sash method from stripping to glazing! Can you recommend a point driver? My glazing rabbets are 3/16". Thanks so much , Dwight
@@dwightforeman1258 first thing I'd do is try to find one on eBay. That's where you'd find the best deal. Other than that there's brand spanking new from CR Laurence to the tune of almost $200, but all things considered, it's worth it to have one, even at that price. You can also sometimes get on from the craftsman blog.
I’ve been glazing windows for 30 years. Not sure I like the easy sand (magic dust) thing. I have used that before and I feel most painters use latex primers or top coats. I believe that the easy sand makes the paint fail sooner. I like to use whiting. I know the easy sand is cheaper. Have you experienced any paint failures due to the easy sand? Excellent work by the way!
Hi Steve. Thanks for all your vids. With removing lead paint, I know u use your steam box but if you had to remove it from a old house how would you go about it? What do u think of the infra heat like speed heater? Thanks mate
Actually I use steam primarily to remove glazing compound. For all other lead paint I use a combination of a paint shaver, ProScraper and sandpaper - all attached to a HEPA vac. I'll use a heat gun for hard to reach places. I hear the speed heater is effective, but I've never needed one.
Historic house homeowner for 30 years and have been stripping paint to save my woodwork for as many years I use infrared speedheater now to strip paint. Amazing tool. Expensive but well worth it. eco-strip.com/ thanks for the great videos Steve. Great to see someone saving windows. 🙂 love your enthusiasm.
I'm having trouble tooling the compound. (using type M) It doesn't have a smooth texture after I run the putty knife over it. The surface of the compound looks like it has pores (like a fine pumice stone) rather than looking smooth like caulk. Do you have any suggestions? Lots of windows to get through. Cannot wait to try your 'magic dust' for clean-up.
The best trick I know for that is to have a brand new, mirror smooth putty knife. Doesn't have to actually be new, but definitely dedicated. If it has any corrosion, scuff marks, old putty, paint, wood filler, epoxy or whatever on the blade, even residually, it will make the putty do that.
@@WoodWindowMakeover Thanks for the suggestion - made a big difference. I also applied more pressure against the mullion than before. Starting to get the hang of it.
@@elizabethharber9448 Another possible reason could be if the Sarco sits on a shelf for long periods of time before you use it: The Sarco tech told me that the oil in the putty can migrate to the bottom of the container due to gravity, so I need to make sure I invert the container now & then if I'm not going to use it all at once. I was getting terrible results, very sticky, & very rough texture because the oils floated to the bottom of the can since I bought it in Feb, then didn't use it til 4 months later. I dug some from the bottom of the can & it was immediately smooth & workable!
I just glazed my first window and had the same problem! Glaze was sticking to the putty knife and not to the window, wasn’t smooth, etc. Going to dig some putty from the bottom of the barrel and get a clean putty knife and try again!
Does anyone know where to get a glazing tool that has a curved steel blade about 1" wide, 5" long with a rosewood (?) handle? I glazer in Dallas gave me one years ago. I lost it in moving. ?? It worked so much better than a standard putty knife.
That's the owners covering their back side. We try to glaze on Friday so we can paint on Monday. Needs about two days to develop a skin thick enough to paint. You can tell because it'll feel a little chalky to the touch. Don't prime. Just go straight to water based top coat.
I have three windows I need to do this fall. they need sanding and painting and glazing is falling off, and I don't have the money to hire a professional like you! Is it really that necessary to take the windows off and bring them inside to do this?I'm not finding very many good videos on how to take the windows off of my 1929 house. Also, do you need to use linseed oil or oil based paint? Finally, if I use it outdoors, would I use sarco multi or sarco m. Thanks!
It is not call magic dust. The appropriate name is Whiting Powder slightly abrasive and as part of it composition it contains 100% Calcium Carbonate which allows to remove traces of linseed oil in the glassing.
Steve, What are your thoughts on putting a bead of white trim caulk along the rabbet before you seat the glass? Also, do you recommend the entire sash be primed, or primate AND painted before adding and glazing in the glass and putty?
Sorry, just seeing this. I don't like to do it, but have done it in the past. Usually long term does violence to the sash because it's so aggressive. If you ever have to change out a piece of glass that someone caulked in, you'll cuss that someone, I guarantee it.
Camera angles are too far away and unclear, and too much focus catchphrases and flair. Still educational and appreciate this person taking the time to share their craft.
You say the Sarco product is only for in-shop use. I take it that it is not the right product for re-glazing of exterior windows on houses then? If so, one would have to go with a standard compound (like DAP 33) or acrylic glaze, correct?
And, take it from an amateur, Sarco Type M is not cheap on Amazon, but it's worth every penny! I used 20 minute drywall mix for the whiting. This is a winning combination, suggested by and taught to me by Master Steve (don't forget a shiny new putty knife... I got the one with the bend in it as it made it easier to glaze windows in place).
@@WoodWindowMakeover kinda like my ex...who is the one that "taught" me all about glazing. He was sooo wrong. Today is the day....;) lol I do have one question. Can I used water based primer and paint on the glaze and wood window trim? Or do you suggest oil based? Some of my windows are very large stationery windows and I'm doing all of this with windows in place. Thank you!
Do you wear gloves because there's something in that glazing compound that is toxic, or just to keep the stuff off your hands? I've used DAP 33 for 30 years without gloves and have had no problems.
Steve,I will ask again since the first time my question was deleted.What is your magic dust you use? Is it talcum powder? I know guys that use it. Just curious
What's with glaziers who speak quietly and add stupid loud music at the beginning of videos? Glad I stayed for the technique. Looks fast and efficient. Please drop those levels on your intro music.
The angle is determined by the glazing rabbet size, the shelf the glass sits on. You aren't supposed to see the glazing compound from inside the house, or the exterior color for that matter, so I always keep my lines just out of sight of the interior. Not sure what angle that is. Maybe 30°? Don't know
Good info, mediocre sound quality, HORRIBLE opening/closing tech-rap "songs"! Post the brand you like in the video text. Glazing is much like shaping bread loaves.
The last time I 'glazed' I was in my 20's. I now have 14 windows with 15 paine's each. Not 20, but 63y/o and have been dreading the task! Your skill is amazing, most helpful tips, and good humor! I am ready now! Thanks tons.
First time glazer here; a piece of glass fell out and I saw how many windows need re-glazing. It's an art but I am finding my stride. I just don't like that it takes 2 weeks to dry.
Try the Sarco. You will see a big difference.
This man is not kidding. As a complete novice, making storm windows for the first time, that was hard enough. The Dap was all I thought I had access to so that’s what I used. Application was miserable. Skin-over time was far longer than what the label said. Once I realized I could buy a quart of the Type M, I bought it and the whiting. I removed the Dap and replaced it with the Sarco. The feel, application, and skin-over time, EVERYTHING!, was so far superior to the Dap that I regret not having done more research back in the spring. Yes, the Dap had been in place for nearly two months and I still couldn’t paint it. And that’s with me moving the windows around to try and speed the process along. What a waste of time and money!
Thanks Steve, for sharing this information. Lesson learned on this end.
Glad it was useful to you. I am totally convinced they design that DAP product to suck on purpose to keep people from wanting to do it. People who are discouraged from doing their own work are simultaneously corralled into consuming products designed keep the manufacturing businesses in business
Dap33 is all I have access to. I can’t find sarco nearby
One of the best explanations, and instructions. Note: The manufacturer lists Easy Sand 20 joint compound (magic dust) as a carcinogenic with a "danger" warning to wear protective gloves, protective clothing, eye protection, and face protection. The material is to be locked up when not in use. Calcium Carbonate (Chalk) does not carry the same warning and is readily available.
Steve! Thank God for you’re unique insight! This is a huge win for me watching how you made this so simple understand and apply. Shame on Dapp 33!
Glad it was helpful! Yes. Shame on Dap 33.
I love seeing master craftsmen like this, fantastic.
Thank you
Great video! The magic dust tip has got to be one the best home improvement tips ever. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Glad you thought it was helpful;
What’s your magic dust ingredients?
It is 20 minute joint compound, which is basically a blend of calcium carbonate and plaster of Paris.
@@WoodWindowMakeover I had no idea you could use Easy Sand as whiting compound. That's a great hack / tip!
@@dang5203 before steves' alchemy mix this element was called glaziers pumice,,
my old boss used it regularly to polish grit dirt and streaks off a hundred year old window glass,use warm water clean cotton rags that do not shed, dip the rag,rub over the whole glass surface,,,wipe off when dry, another dusting with a sprinkle to get the glass spiffy clean,,,,,, cerium oxide is used in the bigger vinyl glass and aluminum window makers,after the wet wipe with the stuff you can smell clean glass, pixie dust it is
Your corners look terrific, I will try it this way next time.
I do a lot of tile showers. My favorite gloves are the orange textured Diamond brand gloves from Autozone. Like 15 bucks for 100 gloves (50 pairs) but they're very very durable and worth the money imo.
You ‘Sir’ are awesome wow and thank you for taking the time explaining your tricks about you beautiful art work
Thanks for the love!
Great video. Just finding an alternative to Dap 33 is worth it. Have a 1916 house and have reglazed most windows. Last window I did was a 9 pane casement type. It swings in on 2 hinges and when you close it the metal edge must fit in metal slots/groove in
the frame. However the last one now will not close all the way. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks. Robert
Steve - Have you done a video on bedding? I've been binging your videos most of the afternoon and haven't found one. Hope you can help. Really like everything I've seen. Super helpful for this homeowner!
I had to check on that myself and it seems you are right. - I don't have anything on that - yet. Thanks for bringing it up. I'll get one out real soon
This glazing compound looks amazing. I work with dap 33 almost everyday
Sarco completely empowered me to get jobs done better and faster. Once I switched I never looked back.
sarco are the only outfit out there anywhere that makes oil based putty,,it is an excellent rain, cold hot dry insulator,, a soundproofing measure too
sarcos' predecessor was an illinois company Nu Putty of des Plaines,,,I used the last qt weight of it a year ago,moistening it periodically with furniture lemon oil
keeps it with a good consistency
Working on wood sashes in Arizona is different than in New York. In NY, every wood double-hung allows access to the sash weights through a screw-in panel in the side of the jamb. In AZ, there is no access except for removing the face trim. I never do that; instead I just shove in the stainless sash controls.
I'll cut my own doors to keep from having to take the casing off
I used your instructions (top shelf, by the way) and Sarco Type M to reglaze a few stationary wood windows that can't be removed....they are stationery and can't be removed. I'm now realizing that perhaps I should have used Dual Glaze since I didn't do them inside. We have had unseasonable warm weather and zero rain, so I'm hoping it won't be an issue. I did them a couple of weeks ago and I'm planning to paint within the next few days. I purchased a gallon of the Type M, but will suck it up and get the Dual Glaze for the rest of the windows if it will be an issue. Thank you!
Thank you for the video. I'm about to glaze four double hung windows.
I am reglazing two windows on my shed. Should I be using Sarco Dual Glaze putty, because I will be doing the work outside? Sarco recommends this. I am going to be doing this in July in good weather. Thanks for your advice. Love your video.
I use Sarco Type M almost exclusively. Can't say I've ever even opened a can of Dual Glaze. Are you doing the glazing outside because you don't know how to take the sash out of the opening?
Your videos are great information and I appreciate your willingness to share, but I agree with some other comments that the music is terrible & suddenly Loud! I have to keep a throttle the volume knob to hurry up & turn it down ..lol :) No music would be better :)
Suggestions for reglazing divided light windows that are not possible to remove and lay flat? Any changes in techniques?
My first question is what makes it not possible to take the sash out?
@@WoodWindowMakeover Significant trim removal for fragile woodwork on dwelling that is historic. Window reglazing without removal reduces highly complicated repairs that would otherwise not be needed. In otherwords, trying to not open a can of worms.
In my view, the repairs you are trying to avoid might be easier than trying to glaze a window in place. But if you must, there’s no easy way. Just got to get the ladders out, chip out the old stuff…. Yeah I don’t like that way.
I have a couple of windows that will need to be glazed without being removed first. If I prep and glazed, do I cover the window with plastic in case it rains?
I wouldn't recommend glazing in place, but if you do, make sure you wait long enough for the glazing to dry out, and then you might want to put some mildecide on it before you paint. Wouldn't want it to turn black on you. Ask me how I know....
What do you use for glazing in place? Sarco type M specifies "in shop" only. I have a single broken pane in a 9 pane fixed sash
I use Type M. For real.
@@WoodWindowMakeover never had any problems with the curing or application process if you're outside?
It gets buried in snow for 4-6 months every year... I gotta get this one done right
Well, I am indeed in Florida for most of my experience. One time we had a severe problem with mold - during the rainy season of course, and that’s when I learned to add zinc to the batches (now everyone does it). Haven’t had a problem since. I reglazed all those in place, by the way, with Type M. But if you have any doubt at all, go with the other stuff and follow the directions. There’s nothing wrong with that.
@@WoodWindowMakeover thank you I'll give it a shot. Just wanted to know if there was a different Sarco compound for "non shop" use. Experience beats instructions every time.
Awesome video Steve! I am starting a long rehab project of 200 year old windows…yours is the best glazing video that I have seen yet - thanks! I already ordered the Multi-glaze - happy to get rid of the Dap glazing.
What is the ‘magic dust’? Something you made or bought?
Glad the video was helpful to you! The magic dust is drywall compound that you get at the home store in the Sheetrock section. It’s basically a blend of calcium carbonate and plaster of Paris
@@WoodWindowMakeover Great! I have bags of drywall compound at the house already…thanks!
Is the glazing compound you are using good for exterior windows?
Yes. 100%
Thanks for the info 👍
Thanks Steve awesome tutorial
Good deal. Glad it was helpful
Do you suggest reglazing storm windows? Is the process the same? A few of my storms leak terribly into the sill and I think it’s because the storms glaze is old. Thanks for the video.
If the storm windows are putty glazed in the traditional way and the glazing is failing, then replacing is in order, followed by a coat of paint that laps up onto the glass to direct water away from the inside.
Where do you get 2 days to paint from? All the instructions I have seen say 10-14 days to paint.
Right. The instructions do say that. That’s to make sure they cover their own backside. But it’s my experience, and the other professionals in the field will back me up on this, a person can usually paint the glazing on the third day. Some wait an extra day or two, but 15 years later, this is the way I’ve done it and it’s the best thing ever.
Can you use the whiting on a vertical surface or does the pane have to be lying down?
I have a window 60" x 60" in 4 panes. Do I do the magic dust after each pane or can I wait until I have all four done? Might be a couple hours, with my speed. Also, I have heard of using Calcium Carbonate, and Whiting. Are they all the same?
With a window that size you might have to do it after every one, but I’d try to do it after the series of four panes first. There have been times when glazing a large sash with many multiples of panes that the glazing would start to set up on the glass on the first panes I finished before I got to the end, so I ended up applying the magic dust after every three to six panes or so. So that’s the trick, to use the magic dust to lick up the oils before the oils coagulate and harden up. One could always clean the glass afterwards with a razor blade if the putty does harden on the glass, but the goal is to save work, not to use magic dust for the sake of saying you used it. Magic dust is most often calcium carbonate, which is also called whiting. What I use is drywall compound, which is calcium carbonate and plaster of Paris combined. Works great
Why are you using joint compound rather than whiting to clean the window off?
Joint compound actually IS whiting with a touch of plaster of Paris in it.
Love this video, especially the scenes that cut in and show the details of what you are doing.
Also, you show a close up of how far the glazing should come out. In that close up the glazing has an imperfect. It isn't smooth. Would you/Did you go back over and smooth that out or would you leave it because it wouldn't be worth making it worse?
Not sure about the blemish your talking about, but am glad to know I'm putting legit reality out there 😁. I honestly don't know if I went back and fixed it. In a perfect world I'd like to think I did. But I'm still seeking to cut that perfect line yet myself. Some days are better than others, no?
@@WoodWindowMakeover right at 4:23...It looks about 1.5-2" to the left of the corner. I'm just asking because I would like to know what is acceptable for a good seal. I strive for perfection all the time which adds hours and hours to a job when I do it for the first time.
@@justtisha I don't really see any flaws at that time stamp, unless you are talking about the top right corner where I hadn't detailed yet.
@@WoodWindowMakeover it's alright. Its right after you slice the left. You slice the right. You clean the left and a smudge is still there. I've been able to smooth those out though without screwing up the rest of the putty so its not as much of a worry for me. I appreciate the replies though!
Hi, Steve. I missed your workshop in Houston this year and obviously 2020 had other plans. Is it possible to reglaze a window without removing it? It's hurricane season and with 15 windows in this house, I doubt I'll get them done in time if I were to take them out one by one.
Hey there hopefully when all this Covid stuff clears we can do another workshop. Reglazing a window without taking the sash from the frame is definitely doable. I've done it. But don't imagine in your mind that it will be faster. When you take into consideration all the ladder work, up and down, the contorted positions the body must achieve, the mess you have to clean up, the sun, the rain, and a host of other possible unknowns, taking the sash from the frame becomes very inviting if you want to reglaze. The artisans who came before us thought long and hard about the windows we love. They ultimately ended up with a window design that let the workers take the sash out from the inside so it could be worked on a table, in the shade, with a fan, on a chair. That said, the first order of business is rarely the glazing. Most often it's the functionality, what I call the Mechanical Makeover. If the window hasn't been brought back to minimum standards of performance, going up and down, opening, closing, locking and so forth, it's not time for glazing anyway. The process of regaining performance will expose all kinds of other elements that need to be addressed, if there's anything that should be addressed. I'm talking sill issues that let water in the frame, casing issues, rot, termites and so forth. Oftentimes problems like these need to be tackled before the glazing. So in many ways, to do what I used to call and "Exterior Makeover" and reglaze off the ladder is to walk into the work blindly, setting one's self up for tripping hazards in the dark that would have been wound walking the trail as it was intended. So my advice would be to get a window working, then take the sash out and do the work as the Artisans before us designed the work to be done - a method of work that emerged over thousands of years of trial and error. You won't be sorry.
wondering if you still have workshops. I live in NW Tennessee and have 23 4/4 sash windows that are caulked and painted shut, my home is from 1900. I need to open the windows! If you have workshops I would gladly drive distance to attend.
Yes I do. Next one is in San Antonio, March 30-31 you can find more info about it at Artisanarmy.com
Cash for your sash is the best comment.... Lol
Hello again! Still working on my window. Knife skills are coming along. I’m a little more than half way through my bucket of putty, and I think it is not as workable as it once was. Can I add something to it? Linseed oil? Thanks.
Yes you can add linseed oil. You can also add Mineral Spirits.
Wood Window Makeover Great to know. Thanks. BTW I should have said *windows*! Not still on the first one! 7 sashes (?) with 9 panes each so far. Not quite half way around the house.
What is the magic dust called? Like that idea
It’s the powdered drywall compound available at the home store
So the powdered drywall will essentially absorb the glazing oil off the glass? I always have to be careful with a thin rag to wipe a straight line
Yes that’s true. Licks it right up.
Should I be using linseed oil based primer on bare wood at the glass edge prior to using the sarco glazing? My windows are gray from age and I won't be doing any of this work on a table (i.e. mostly me on a ladder) Can I use this glazing in November between 32-50 degrees or is that too cold? Thanks for your help. I am running out of time, soon the snow will be here in New England.
Hi Steve, thanks for your videos. They have been a big help during my renovation. One question... when removing old glazing, how important is it to clear out the mini recesses or rabbets along the edge of where the glass sits? It seems the last person who worked on these windows might have used bondo or something like that for glazing and it is extremely tedious to dig it out. Probably takes me as long to clear those as to strip the rest of the window frame. Thanks!
Have you tried a heat gun to get it out? We have to do that sometimes when it’s just too stubborn. But we start with sharp tools. My favorite is the hive tool, which is basically a miniature flat bar, sharpened to a point on the end and the sides. I use that as a dedicated chisel because, being made from mild steel compared to a chisel, I can sharpen it with a common file as needed. The hardest part, as well as the most important part, is that whatever method, tool, device one employs to get the glazing out, the actual wood of the glazing bar stays intact. That means to say that getting the glazing out at the expense of ruining the sash misses the point. We get the glazing out so that we can effectively put the sash back into service and get the longest possible useful life span out of it at the same time. It would further miss the point to get the glazing out “because Steve said it had to be done” and then spend four days doing it only so that the end result could be photographed for proof that you followed “protocol “. So try the heat gun, that will probably give you the results you can use while maintaining the integrity of the sash you are working on.
Wood Window Makeover I appreciate the response. I have used heat and it does come out with some determination. It is just taking so long I wonder if it’s really worth the extra time it takes.
If that tiny little bit in the groove doesn’t come out, does it compromise the hold ghat the new glazing will have on the sash? I do have a hive tool, but for that little bit I’m having to use a metal pick, like a dental pick.
If you are having to use a dental pick, I’d say you are going to far. What you could do instead is use an even blend of boiled linseed oil, turpentine and penetrol to reconstitute the putty and the wood at the same time. The putty is no doubt super dry, and so is the wood. Oiling it up not only gives the putty and wood a much needed “drink”, it also waterproofs and creates a base for a nice layer of oil based primer, which further waterproofs the wood and creates the base upon which you can confidently reglaze. Having given the glazing rabbets a proper oil bath, the formerly dry wood won’t leech the oils from the putty like it would if it was left bare. That little bit you are trying to get out with the dental pick doesn’t sound like it’s worth your time. If you can set your glass flat in the rabbet with a proper bedding of glazing compound, you’ve accomplished all you need to accomplish with removing the old glazing.
@@marcwoodward850 a half inch wide , clean edged semi sharp chisel ought to get a flat surface,, careful not to gouge the wood,then sand the rabbet smooth,linseed oil ,like the man ,said will soak into old dried out putty making it more pliant for easy removal,
@@WoodWindowMakeover Could Markwoodward850 use a steamer to remove the old grout?
Thanks WWM! How long after you glaze do you use the magic dust? I see you using your paint brush and I would be fearful I would smudge the glaze I just put in. Do you wait a day and then use it as I know you don't want the oil hard on there but also don't' want to hit your glaze. Also, do you ever mix the Sarco up when you first get it to make sure the oil isn't all on the bottom? Lastly, do you recommend only adding the water to keep it if you think you won't use it for awhile or is it ok to leave it for a day or two without? Thank you so much!!!!
Great questions. Firstly, you want to do the magic dust right away before doing anything else. What you are trying to do is get the oils off of the glass before it dries. If the oils dry on the glass, cleaning that dried stuff takes waaay longer and is waaaay more problematic. So do it right away.
The fear you have about smudging the glazing with the brush is real. But the fear is not worth your time. You are going to smudge it. You just have to fix what you smudge. To this day, as many panes of glass that I’ve puttied in, I still have to go back and adjust what I did with the brush and magic dust.
Finally, the water on top of the glazing in the bucket keeps it fresh for weeks, a month or two. It keeps it from skimming over. But if you need to store it for longer, put a little water on the top and stick it in the freezer. I’ve never had to do that myself because the glazing putty doesn’t stick around long enough. But that’s what I’ve heard the credible old timers say.
Hope that helps!
@@WoodWindowMakeover Can't thank you enough for taking the time to answer. I may end up cursing but I'm going for it myself. My windows are in rough shape so it is practically like raising someone from the dead. lol
I’ve not been very happy with my putty knives, what is yours?
Nice , do you reuse the excess on the next sash as you move along ,Or throw it away? BTW, smooth ambidextrous style 😎 nice work 👍. Do you glaze before or after your coffee ? No shakiness.
We use as much excess as we can. Excess from the last glazing often goes to bed the next batch, then anything left over from that we still try to recycle. Waste not want not, as grandma used to say.
Do have any tricks for getting a nice straight glazing cut line when the edge of the rabbet has small nicks or dents in it? I get slight waves in the putty when my putty knife hits a dent in the wood edge.
It all has to do with the set up and your prep work. The better the prep, the easier the finish. What you are experiencing is indeed a pane 😀🤣. The solution really is to an additional step before you glaze and straighten out that edge. Sometimes you can recreate that edge with epoxy, other times you might need to do a small dutchman repair. Of course you can always just wing it and try to smooth it over the best you can. But your best work hands down happens by working on your prep, before you start glazing. Get good at that and glazing is a breeze.
maybe you can hold a straight edge to the nicked side just to get a straight line; you'd have to use 2 hands.
two weeks is a long time to wait to apply primer or paint, can I use a wood hardener to speed up the curing process of the glaze?
Actually, using Sarco Type M, the wait time is about 3 days. The product label will tell you to wait longer, but that's for legal purposes and covering their backside. All the pros use this because of the set up time. There's no product out there that I know of that's faster, or will make it faster without compromising quality. That said, a fan will do wonders to help the glazing set up faster.
Hey Steve, I have asked you about this subject before, but want your opinion more specifically. I have a 3/16" rabbet. Would you glaze 1/8", and leave 1/16 for painting or 1/32" strong. Also, on dbl hungs with daddo or groove, how do you handle that? Where do you get your Sarco or where is a good place for me?
Thanks,
Dwight
I don't think about it too much actually. I just know that my glazing has to simultaneously cover all the edges of the glass and glazing points, yet not be seen on the inside. It might be a 1/16", but 1/32" seems a little too tight. That may seem tight to me because I know that my painting skills aren't yet what they could be and cutting a consistent line at such a tolerance might drive me out of my mind.
Wood Window Makeover thank you!
@@WoodWindowMakeover good morning Steve, I am having great success using your sash method from stripping to glazing! Can you recommend a point driver? My glazing rabbets are 3/16".
Thanks so much ,
Dwight
@@dwightforeman1258 first thing I'd do is try to find one on eBay. That's where you'd find the best deal. Other than that there's brand spanking new from CR Laurence to the tune of almost $200, but all things considered, it's worth it to have one, even at that price. You can also sometimes get on from the craftsman blog.
I’ve been glazing windows for 30 years. Not sure I like the easy sand (magic dust) thing. I have used that before and I feel most painters use latex primers or top coats. I believe that the easy sand makes the paint fail sooner. I like to use whiting. I know the easy sand is cheaper. Have you experienced any paint failures due to the easy sand? Excellent work by the way!
Haven't had any failure in over 10 years of doing it. But you never know - year 15 is coming!
Hi Steve. Thanks for all your vids. With removing lead paint, I know u use your steam box but if you had to remove it from a old house how would you go about it? What do u think of the infra heat like speed heater? Thanks mate
Actually I use steam primarily to remove glazing compound. For all other lead paint I use a combination of a paint shaver, ProScraper and sandpaper - all attached to a HEPA vac. I'll use a heat gun for hard to reach places. I hear the speed heater is effective, but I've never needed one.
@@WoodWindowMakeover thanks for the info, much appreciated
Historic house homeowner for 30 years and have been stripping paint to save my woodwork for as many years I use infrared speedheater now to strip paint. Amazing tool. Expensive but well worth it. eco-strip.com/ thanks for the great videos Steve. Great to see someone saving windows. 🙂 love your enthusiasm.
@@ryanodea5417 absolutely love the infrared speedheater
pleasure to watch a master glazer..you make it look EZ....it ain't!
Thank you
Do you have a favorite glazing point?
It’s a Diamond point that’s my favorite. Diamond shaped and shot from a dedicated point driver. There are two sizes, a dp1 and a dp2. I like the dp1
Dont you need to primer the window before you apply the window and putty?
Yes that's true.
But you don't prime the glazing. Go straight to paint, after the glazing compound develops a skin
I'm having trouble tooling the compound. (using type M) It doesn't have a smooth texture after I run the putty knife over it. The surface of the compound looks like it has pores (like a fine pumice stone) rather than looking smooth like caulk. Do you have any suggestions? Lots of windows to get through. Cannot wait to try your 'magic dust' for clean-up.
The best trick I know for that is to have a brand new, mirror smooth putty knife. Doesn't have to actually be new, but definitely dedicated. If it has any corrosion, scuff marks, old putty, paint, wood filler, epoxy or whatever on the blade, even residually, it will make the putty do that.
@@WoodWindowMakeover Thanks for the suggestion - made a big difference. I also applied more pressure against the mullion than before. Starting to get the hang of it.
@@elizabethharber9448 Another possible reason could be if the Sarco sits on a shelf for long periods of time before you use it: The Sarco tech told me that the oil in the putty can migrate to the bottom of the container due to gravity, so I need to make sure I invert the container now & then if I'm not going to use it all at once. I was getting terrible results, very sticky, & very rough texture because the oils floated to the bottom of the can since I bought it in Feb, then didn't use it til 4 months later. I dug some from the bottom of the can & it was immediately smooth & workable!
Could a dip in a solvent oil like linseed help with that texture issue? Seems liked it might, but I haven't tried it, yet.
I just glazed my first window and had the same problem! Glaze was sticking to the putty knife and not to the window, wasn’t smooth, etc. Going to dig some putty from the bottom of the barrel and get a clean putty knife and try again!
Does anyone know where to get a glazing tool that has a curved steel blade about 1" wide, 5" long with a rosewood (?) handle? I glazer in Dallas gave me one years ago. I lost it in moving. ?? It worked so much better than a standard putty knife.
Not sure, I use just a regular putty knife. I'd actually look it up on Google
@@WoodWindowMakeover Thanks for quick reply. I found Bohle on ebay. German company. $13. hope this helps.
Do you mean this type? www.amazon.com/Putty-Knife-38mm-Soft-Grip-Handle/dp/B000Y8NBYK
WHAT is the 'magic dust' comprised of?
It’s nothing more than drywall compound, a mixture of calcium carbonate and plaster of Paris. You can get it at the home store in the drywall section
why do you like your product more than the "D-33" ?
The product I use, Sarco Type M, sets up and can be painted in a few days. I can glaze on Friday and paint on Monday. DAP 33 takes a month to set up.
Thank you very much.
When can you paint the sarco multi glaze? The website says 14 days
That's the owners covering their back side. We try to glaze on Friday so we can paint on Monday. Needs about two days to develop a skin thick enough to paint. You can tell because it'll feel a little chalky to the touch. Don't prime. Just go straight to water based top coat.
I have three windows I need to do this fall. they need sanding and painting and glazing is falling off, and I don't have the money to hire a professional like you!
Is it really that necessary to take the windows off and bring them inside to do this?I'm not finding very many good videos on how to take the windows off of my 1929 house. Also, do you need to use linseed oil or oil based paint? Finally, if I use it outdoors, would I use sarco multi or sarco m. Thanks!
Great tips dude
Thank you my friend
It is not call magic dust. The appropriate name is Whiting Powder slightly abrasive and as part of it composition it contains 100% Calcium Carbonate which allows to remove traces of linseed oil in the glassing.
I was opening a container of dap 33 when you made the comments on it. Lol. Should i proceed? How long does it take to "dry" before paint?
TACTICAL DAIRYMAN it takes foreeeever to dry. That's why I switched to SARCO. Sets up and can paint in on the third day.
+TACTICAL DAIRYMAN it takes forever. It's probably still drying
40 years
Label says week to a fortnight...
Too bad I stumbled on this video a couple days *after* using it.
You could put a fan on it?
Steve,
What are your thoughts on putting a bead of white trim caulk along the rabbet before you seat the glass?
Also, do you recommend the entire sash be primed, or primate AND painted before adding and glazing in the glass and putty?
Sorry, just seeing this. I don't like to do it, but have done it in the past. Usually long term does violence to the sash because it's so aggressive. If you ever have to change out a piece of glass that someone caulked in, you'll cuss that someone, I guarantee it.
What is the pointy part at the bottom of the window sash called and what are they for?
so ... is the process the same for 200+ 8x10 french panes (pains) or is there a different approach?
Camera angles are too far away and unclear, and too much focus catchphrases and flair. Still educational and appreciate this person taking the time to share their craft.
You say the Sarco product is only for in-shop use. I take it that it is not the right product for re-glazing of exterior windows on houses then? If so, one would have to go with a standard compound (like DAP 33) or acrylic glaze, correct?
Truth is I use Sarco Type M for everything, inside and out. Haven't had any problems yet
Thank you very much. That is very helpful!@@WoodWindowMakeover
Where do you buy your glazing?
I buy it direct from Sarco I'm Chicago. Most people get it on Amazon now
And, take it from an amateur, Sarco Type M is not cheap on Amazon, but it's worth every penny! I used 20 minute drywall mix for the whiting. This is a winning combination, suggested by and taught to me by Master Steve (don't forget a shiny new putty knife... I got the one with the bend in it as it made it easier to glaze windows in place).
You are right. DAP 33 should be outlawed. I've been putting this off for a while now. Thanks to you, ready to give it a shot.
It definitely has a way of running people off
@@WoodWindowMakeover kinda like my ex...who is the one that "taught" me all about glazing. He was sooo wrong. Today is the day....;) lol
I do have one question. Can I used water based primer and paint on the glaze and wood window trim? Or do you suggest oil based? Some of my windows are very large stationery windows and I'm doing all of this with windows in place. Thank you!
@@jilldeming the Sarco doesn't need priming at all, and I would stay away from water based primers. Period.
@@WoodWindowMakeover got it! No water based primer! Thanks so much!
Im returning my DAP 33 now, at HDepot...buying Type M SARCO....
Awesome!
Top man
Glaze 66 is the best
Until you've tried Sarco.
Your music/ noise can go, but your tips were great. Thanks!
Compound
I guess I hate life... I had to use Dap 33. 😭😒🤬
One day you'll get to use Sarco
Do you have to bring the w8ndows into the shop or can they be glazed in place?
The sash are designed to be taken out from the inside and glazed on a table or easel. One can do it from the outside but it's 10 times the effort.
This is a guy who knows how to apply putty QUICKLY to a sash.
Thanks for the compliment
Do you wear gloves because there's something in that glazing compound that is toxic, or just to keep the stuff off your hands? I've used DAP 33 for 30 years without gloves and have had no problems.
The gloves just keep the stuff off my hands
No bent knife
Some people swear by them but I've personally never picked one up.
Steve,I will ask again since the first time my question was deleted.What is your magic dust you use? Is it talcum powder? I know guys that use it. Just curious
Sorry to respond so late. It's just powdered drywall mud.
Which drywall mud? Regular or one of the "faster" muds like 45 or 20?
Any of them will do. None is faster than the other in this application
Thanks! Great tips. :)
I recommend Woodglut to every beginner and not only.
What's with glaziers who speak quietly and add stupid loud music at the beginning of videos?
Glad I stayed for the technique. Looks fast and efficient.
Please drop those levels on your intro music.
His video...guess he can play what he wants.
I did it too. This is what I used Woodglut designs for
Painters here in Philadelphia tend to rake their caulk at 45 degree angles. Yours seem far less.
The angle is determined by the glazing rabbet size, the shelf the glass sits on. You aren't supposed to see the glazing compound from inside the house, or the exterior color for that matter, so I always keep my lines just out of sight of the interior. Not sure what angle that is. Maybe 30°? Don't know
Good info, mediocre sound quality, HORRIBLE opening/closing tech-rap "songs"!
Post the brand you like in the video text.
Glazing is much like shaping bread loaves.
Maybe you should identify the whiting instead of just calling it “magic dust”.
People come here for information.
It’s not whiting. It’s drywall compound.